March 2003 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Re: M_Boats: Hardware Mounting / Level
by Wcpritchett＠aol.com 20 Mar '03

20 Mar '03

You can use 5200 or Boatlife. 5200 is for bonding and sealing. I wouldn't use 5200 on plastic parts (such as portholes) that may need replacement someday because the plastic may break before you get the caulk to lift. Boatlife is only for sealing and will not really glue parts together (well, it can be tough to remove but nothing like 5200 is). Either one will do you well for deck hardware. Boatlife will cure faster if wet and spritzing with water will put a skin on the bead and also jump start the curing. Use this for areas you caulk and then need to paint over...it will reduce the time before you can lay a brush on it without disturbing the caulk. I've done this many times.

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Re: M_Boats: Flicka
by Wilsometer＠aol.com 20 Mar '03

20 Mar '03

In a message dated 3/18/03 5:53:51 PM, chonshell(a)ia4u.net writes: >The M17 is >far-and-away better in light air and with the stub-keel it turns on a dime, >but the Flicka has a proven record >of circumnavigation, so you can't argue with that. Actually, no Flicka has done a circumnavigation yet. The last well published attempt started in South Africa, but ended with a devastating fire shortly after the start. There have certainly been numerous ocean passages, but no circumnavigation yet. Your point is well taken, however. I nearly purchased one of several Flicka's last year, but decided to hold off. I am not disappointed in my decision to stay with the M15 (for now). Scott Grometer M15 #478 'bebe'

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Re: M_Boats: 5200
by Wcpritchett＠aol.com 20 Mar '03

20 Mar '03

That be BoatLife Lifecaulk...not thier polyurethane or silicone stuff.

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Re: M_Boats: Hardware Mounting / Level
by Sandyal55＠aol.com 20 Mar '03

20 Mar '03

In a message dated 3/18/2003 6:16:43 PM US Mountain Standard Time, chonshell(a)ia4u.net writes: > So 5200 is not for deck hardware because it dries hard, or because it has to > be wet to set? > 5200 is for fittings that you don't want to remove easily. It will cure dry, but it takes a longer time. It dries faster when wet. Boatlife can be used underwater too, but out here in AZ, the curing is accomplished dry most of the time. Most boats are dry sailed, so repairs are done on a trailer most of the time. You can use 5200 on deck fittings if you like. Sandy

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Re: M_Boats: Hardware Mounting / Level
by Wilsometer＠aol.com 20 Mar '03

20 Mar '03

In a message dated 3/18/03 4:46:28 PM, chonshell(a)ia4u.net writes: >So I WOULDN'T want the 5200 bond? Is the issue the re-re-bedding down >the road? I wouldn't. I have had to take (on other boats) a hammer and chisel to remove fittings installed with 5200. I think you are better served using a good elastomeric like boat-life or 3M '101'. Boat life removes and cleans up easily. Scott

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Re: M_Boats: MAIB - The Wind In The Willows
by chbenneck＠juno.com 20 Mar '03

20 Mar '03

Hi gang, Two days we had 57 degree weather, and our snow is melting away. Last week the water line on the M15 sitting on the trailer was equal to the height of the snow. Today the snow is down to the level of the Bearing Buddy: not all gone by a long shot, but the starch has been taken out of winter. The next few days are supposed to be in the mid 40s, and mid 50s, so hopefully by the weekend, the M15 will be sitting there and approachable again, without climbing a snow bank. Glory be, Spring is finally coming! Sailing season is getting nearer by the day! Connie

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Re: M_Boats: water vs. driveway . . .
by Wilsometer＠aol.com 19 Mar '03

19 Mar '03

In a message dated 3/18/03 6:36:26 PM, chonshell(a)ia4u.net writes: >Is my reasoning sound, or should I buck-up and do the measuring on the >water, the fitting at home? Sure seems to me that this would be more reliable. Per my earlier post regarding using a laser (I understand you don't have), you could mark a few locations on each side with a grease pencil, and connect the dots. Scott

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water vs. driveway . . .
by Honshells 19 Mar '03

19 Mar '03

Is my reasoning sound, or should I buck-up and do the measuring on the water, the fitting at home? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Honshells" <chonshell(a)ia4u.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2003 9:30 PM Subject: Hardware Mounting / Level The boot-stripe method is more appealing, because it's a long drive to the water and I plan do the actual mounting work on my driveway, where I can measure, cut and fit, as well as do a little trial-and-error. I don't need to be dead-on precise, just close enough so the ladder hangs reasonably level while deployed. As you suggest, the loading of the boat, as well as my lard-butt shifted fore or aft depending on where I embark or disembark, will always affect the position of the ladder anyway. ----- Original Message ----- From: <htmills(a)bright.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2003 9:21 PM Subject: Hardware Mounting / Level "I don't want the waterline. I want to level the boat on the trailer. I'll explain. I want to add a "moveable" gunwale-mount boarding ladder. I want to be able to hang the ladder aft, not off the transom, but off the gunwale, to starboard. I also want to be able to hang the same ladder forward, again, off the gunwale to starboard. If I install mounting tabs flush with the deck, my ladder will hang askew due to the boat's shear. So I need to install pads that will level the mounting tabs in relation to the way the boat will sit in the water and not in line with the shear. I need to level the boat on the trailer close to the way it will sit in the water, so that I can get the mounting-tabs level to the way the boat will sit in the water." In that case, if I weren't sure what level was close enough to suit me, I'd put the boat in the water. However, if your boat already has a boot stripe, you'll be very close if you just make the ladder square to it. The pitch of the boat will change some depending on loading anyway. Busca has a boot stripe and on the MSOG page there is a photo in my Lake Huron story that shows her at a dock and the whole boot stripe is under water at the bow! That's because of all the water jugs I had stowed under the vee-berth. Tod

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Re: M_Boats: Hardware Mounting / Level
by Sandyal55＠aol.com 19 Mar '03

19 Mar '03

In a message dated 3/18/2003 5:44:29 PM US Mountain Standard Time, chonshell(a)ia4u.net writes: > Or are you saying mark "level" while in the water, then Then take it out of the water and paint it on that line. It doesn't matter how level it is on the trailer. Loaded, in the water, will show you the real waterline. Sandy

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Hardware Mounting / Level
by Honshells 19 Mar '03

19 Mar '03

Is Boat Life caulk pretty much the best product to bed deck hardware? Are the methods proposed to mark the waterline also the best way to assure whether the boat is sitting level horizontally on its trailer the way it would sit in the water? I have a reason for leveling the boat that is unrelated to marking the waterline. The function I have in mind could not be carried out in the water. Thanks!

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