The +5 on my Joust power board went out, the heatsink mounted transistor is fried and from the looks of the burnt connector some serious current went through it. I'm going to have to replace the molex or jump the wire someway, I've got huge resistance on it when it's connected now. The header pins have cold solder joints aplenty, I'm hoping it was just a bad connection that caused the current to jump. Have I fried anything on the boardset when my +5 went nuts? I'm hoping no, and I guess I'll really know when the PS is back up, but I'm wondering what to expect. Sean McLachlan MIS Manager, LithoFlexo grafics inc. 801.484.8503 sean@lithoflexo.com
My experience has been that +5 failing doesn't kill much (if anything) off. Now losing the -5v is the kiss of death for your 4116s.. :) If you're not a "purist" (going for the complete restoration -- Hi Chris!) I'd definitly recommend taking this opportunity to change out the crappy wms supply and going to a switcher. If you did have some of the ram wiped out you might consider the 4164 hack (which also doesn't need the negative voltage). Kurt On Wed, Apr 27, 2005 at 02:03:38PM -0600, Sean McLachlan wrote:
The +5 on my Joust power board went out, the heatsink mounted transistor is fried and from the looks of the burnt connector some serious current went through it. I'm going to have to replace the molex or jump the wire someway, I've got huge resistance on it when it's connected now.
The header pins have cold solder joints aplenty, I'm hoping it was just a bad connection that caused the current to jump.
Have I fried anything on the boardset when my +5 went nuts? I'm hoping no, and I guess I'll really know when the PS is back up, but I'm wondering what to expect.
Sean McLachlan MIS Manager, LithoFlexo grafics inc. 801.484.8503 sean@lithoflexo.com
-- /** * Kurt Mahan kmahan@xmission.com * * "Did I say that out loud?" */
Kurt! You're posting! Glad you're back online.
If you're not a "purist" (going for the complete restoration -- Hi Chris!) I'd definitly recommend taking this opportunity to change out the crappy wms supply and going to a switcher.
hahaha...I make exceptions for the Williams supply and the Atari switching supplies...though I do keep the originals in the cabinet. -Chris
utvgg-bounces+sean=lithoflexo.com@mailman.xmission.com wrote:
My experience has been that +5 failing doesn't kill much (if anything) off. Now losing the -5v is the kiss of death for your 4116s.. :)
Pwhew. I was bracing for the worst.
If you're not a "purist" (going for the complete restoration -- Hi Chris!) I'd definitely recommend taking this opportunity to change out the crappy wms supply and going to a switcher.
I'm not a purist, mostly I just like to play working games. :) I'll throw in a switcher. But I will leave the original PS in it, just to keep all the parts there, and because it's a "numbers matching" game. Google says I should also replace the 3 AA batteries with a lithium, so I guess I'll do that too. The holder had corroded anyway.
If you did have some of the ram wiped out you might consider the 4164 hack (which also doesn't need the negative voltage).
If I lost some RAM, I'll probably just replace it. My games see about 4 hours a month of on time, and I'd probably cause more trouble than I'd fix. The switcher should keep the RAM happy, anyway. Sean
K, so I have been going over the wiring diagram, and I think this shouldn't be too tough, but I'd like to get a sanity check before I rip into anything. To run the game boards, I only need to take the harness that would normally got to connector 4J2 on the PS board and connect it to a switcher supplying +5, -5, +12 and -12 on the correct pins. That should get the game running, right? And since it's just the +5 on the PS board that is hosed, I can still connect it to the ISO transformer and use it to power the coindoor coils, AC lights, switches, etc from connector 4J3. I'll leave the heatsink unplugged. Will it hurt anything to have a mostly zero load on the PS board? All the logic will feed off the switcher, so even if the PS board smokes it shouldn't hurt anything. Does this seem about right to you guys? Sean
Have I fried anything on the boardset when my +5 went nuts? I'm hoping no, and I guess I'll really know when the PS is back up, but I'm wondering what to expect.
I don't know the failure mode for the Williams supplies (already told Sean this), but I've been buying some switchers from Ra-Elco. They are Power-One model MAP130-4000S131BABT, and Ra-Elco's been selling them for $15 or $20 depending on the phase of the moon. They have +5V at 20A with OVP and sense leads (good for Atari games in particular which usually have feedback wiring), -5V at 1A, +12V@5A and -12V@3A. -Chris
I'd buy the switcher from www.arcadeshop.com with the PCB that allows you to just mount and plug in the existing connectors (no splicing, no rewiring)...you bypass the old, poorly designed power PCBs alltogether. $39 is well worth it. I bought one from them to replace a blown Galaga PS PCB, works great.... ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sean McLachlan" <sean@lithoflexo.com> To: <utvgg@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Wednesday, April 27, 2005 2:03 PM Subject: [UtVgG] Joust +5 went out
The +5 on my Joust power board went out, the heatsink mounted transistor is fried and from the looks of the burnt connector some serious current went through it. I'm going to have to replace the molex or jump the wire someway, I've got huge resistance on it when it's connected now.
The header pins have cold solder joints aplenty, I'm hoping it was just a bad connection that caused the current to jump.
Have I fried anything on the boardset when my +5 went nuts? I'm hoping no, and I guess I'll really know when the PS is back up, but I'm wondering what to expect.
Sean McLachlan MIS Manager, LithoFlexo grafics inc. 801.484.8503 sean@lithoflexo.com
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participants (4)
-
Christopher Strong -
Jeff Peters -
Kurt Mahan -
Sean McLachlan