Hi all, I was wondering if you might share some pics regarding how your mast light gets to your power panel. I have a mastlight...and what appears to be it's wire in the mast, but I don't see a way it gets into the boat. Online I've seen various plastic fittings and the old drill and caulk method. Opinions and pics greatly appreciated! Jazz On Jan 22, 2016 10:54 AM, <swwheatley@comcast.net> wrote:
I have sailed my M17 with the lifting rudder (and the centerboard) all the way up and have been pleasantly surprised. Sure, there is more sideslip, you can't point as high and you have to reef sooner but, as long as you're not racing, the fun-factor is pretty much the same. I worried that having the tiller roughly 1 foot higher would feel awkward, but that was not the case. The raised rudder/tiller do not interfere with the stock rig at all.
The o.e. mahogany rudder that came with my boat was pretty beat up, so I made a close copy out of marine plywood covered with fiberglass and epoxy. I already had some experience shaping foils for a stitch-and-tape dinghy I built so, for me, it was a pretty straightforward DIY project.
Be aware that the lifting rudder can be a fussy arrangement. It doesn't take much of a grounding to bend the rod. Once that happens, it becomes very difficult, if not impossible, to put the rudder up or down. Plan on fabricating two rods and carrying one as a spare.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Thomas Buzzi" <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, January 22, 2016 9:58:57 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Ida Rudder
John, I told Jazzy how to rig his slide up rudder since I had one on my first Monty 17 back in '83. He has the slightly newer model of rudder which is not balanced at all. Maybe Jerry can put you onto a source of his mahogany rudders. Any of them can be made into a lifting rudder with a set of gudgeons what will fit on the rudder since the first set of the two sets necessary is already on the transom. I never sailed with the lifting rudder partially up but unless you are racing all out I doubt the slight loss of lateral resistance by raising the 10 inch wide rudder a few inches would be noticeable. Then too with the rudder a few inches above normal sailing setup might interfere with other elements of the rig. Tom B < https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
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On Fri, Jan 22, 2016 at 2:29 AM, John Schinnerer <john@eco-living.net> wrote:
Thanks Tom, This sounds totally doable as DIY. Someone just posted about how the up-down line works also.
Would be great if someone has pictures of one of the original sliding-rod rudders though, for details.
Also, since I have the early balanced rudder...I'd need a non-balanced blade to do this with. Same tiller should be fine, I assume?
If anyone here has all or part of a slide-up for sale, including just the blade, let me know.
I really like the design because a kick-up rudder becomes a lousy rudder helm-wise when kicked up even a little - out of balance, if one needs to still sail with it partly up. But the slider would seem to be way better with that - less effective the more it comes up, but at least still more in balance.
cheers, John S.
On 01/21/2016 07:39 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
As concerns your rudder, you already have gudgeons on your transom, look for after market gudgeons that will mount on a rudder. Or have them fabricated. Websites like Discount Steel or Metals Depot have stainless steel rod for sale by the foot. Or you might have a local dealer. It would be a simple matter of installing gudgeons both places and buying three feet of ss rod to use as the pin. I had a "beaching rudder" on my first Monty built in 74 and it was a very handy rig. Add the kickup feature and you will have the best of all worlds. Tom B
... -- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design
- Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
I used a D cell powered mast light that I bought at a chandlery and haul up the mast with the halyard when I need it. No wires to fuss with. Do the same thing with a similar nautical type flashlight for my starboard/port light when I need it. Only need to use the things when it is dark, otherwise stow them in one of the cockpit lockers. Steve M-15 # 335 -----Original Message----- From: Jazzy Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2016 11:42 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: M_Boats: Mast Light through Hull... Hi all, I was wondering if you might share some pics regarding how your mast light gets to your power panel. I have a mastlight...and what appears to be it's wire in the mast, but I don't see a way it gets into the boat. Online I've seen various plastic fittings and the old drill and caulk method. Opinions and pics greatly appreciated! Jazz On Jan 22, 2016 10:54 AM, <swwheatley@comcast.net> wrote:
I have sailed my M17 with the lifting rudder (and the centerboard) all the way up and have been pleasantly surprised. Sure, there is more sideslip, you can't point as high and you have to reef sooner but, as long as you're not racing, the fun-factor is pretty much the same. I worried that having the tiller roughly 1 foot higher would feel awkward, but that was not the case. The raised rudder/tiller do not interfere with the stock rig at all.
The o.e. mahogany rudder that came with my boat was pretty beat up, so I made a close copy out of marine plywood covered with fiberglass and epoxy. I already had some experience shaping foils for a stitch-and-tape dinghy I built so, for me, it was a pretty straightforward DIY project.
Be aware that the lifting rudder can be a fussy arrangement. It doesn't take much of a grounding to bend the rod. Once that happens, it becomes very difficult, if not impossible, to put the rudder up or down. Plan on fabricating two rods and carrying one as a spare.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Thomas Buzzi" <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, January 22, 2016 9:58:57 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Ida Rudder
John, I told Jazzy how to rig his slide up rudder since I had one on my first Monty 17 back in '83. He has the slightly newer model of rudder which is not balanced at all. Maybe Jerry can put you onto a source of his mahogany rudders. Any of them can be made into a lifting rudder with a set of gudgeons what will fit on the rudder since the first set of the two sets necessary is already on the transom. I never sailed with the lifting rudder partially up but unless you are racing all out I doubt the slight loss of lateral resistance by raising the 10 inch wide rudder a few inches would be noticeable. Then too with the rudder a few inches above normal sailing setup might interfere with other elements of the rig. Tom B < https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
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On Fri, Jan 22, 2016 at 2:29 AM, John Schinnerer <john@eco-living.net> wrote:
Thanks Tom, This sounds totally doable as DIY. Someone just posted about how the up-down line works also.
Would be great if someone has pictures of one of the original sliding-rod rudders though, for details.
Also, since I have the early balanced rudder...I'd need a non-balanced blade to do this with. Same tiller should be fine, I assume?
If anyone here has all or part of a slide-up for sale, including just the blade, let me know.
I really like the design because a kick-up rudder becomes a lousy rudder helm-wise when kicked up even a little - out of balance, if one needs to still sail with it partly up. But the slider would seem to be way better with that - less effective the more it comes up, but at least still more in balance.
cheers, John S.
On 01/21/2016 07:39 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
As concerns your rudder, you already have gudgeons on your transom, look for after market gudgeons that will mount on a rudder. Or have them fabricated. Websites like Discount Steel or Metals Depot have stainless steel rod for sale by the foot. Or you might have a local dealer. It would be a simple matter of installing gudgeons both places and buying three feet of ss rod to use as the pin. I had a "beaching rudder" on my first Monty built in 74 and it was a very handy rig. Add the kickup feature and you will have the best of all worlds. Tom B
... -- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design
- Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
Hiya Steve, Mine came with the very same stuff in a crate! But if it's not to much hassle I'd like to get it all hooked up original. Last night the front nav light came on for the first time in years I bet, from the power panel! It's good to go! Stern light is whooped. Jazz
Jazz, Among the many attractions my M-15 has held for the 30 years I have owned it is simplicity, no wires or other tech stuff, which is why I use flashlight type navigation and mast lights. Had enough tech and such on the job before I retired, and now I avoid as much electronics as I can. It is a challenge to avoid tech in 2016, but I plan to keep my M-15 low tech. Steve M-15 # 335 -----Original Message----- From: Jazzy Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2016 12:13 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Mast Light through Hull... Hiya Steve, Mine came with the very same stuff in a crate! But if it's not to much hassle I'd like to get it all hooked up original. Last night the front nav light came on for the first time in years I bet, from the power panel! It's good to go! Stern light is whooped. Jazz
Jazzy, I have redone my electricals. I am using Aqua Signal nav lights. I drilled a hole in the deck and lined it with epoxy, etc. Then bought a two part four pin plug (I installed a steaming light as well as the mast head lite). Then led the wires via deck plug down to the fuse panel then to storage battery, deep well AGM type. I am also using diode lights which draw a fraction of regular old incandescent bulbs. I am doing all this because I want to be seen at night while I am anchored and asleep. I boated for years on Galveston Bay, Tx. and the cigarette boats there, at 70+ miles an hour could easily skure my boat and kill me and the drunk bast....s would not even know it. That is all I can do to feel safe so that is what I did. I know low tech is good for a lot of reasons except out there what you have to work with is what you brought from home. <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Thu, Jan 28, 2016 at 2:13 PM, Jazzy <jazzydaze@gmail.com> wrote:
Hiya Steve, Mine came with the very same stuff in a crate! But if it's not to much hassle I'd like to get it all hooked up original. Last night the front nav light came on for the first time in years I bet, from the power panel! It's good to go! Stern light is whooped. Jazz
My M17 Monita sleeps alone on her mooring most of the time. The mooring is the only one in our bay. I learned the necessity of an anchor light the hard way a number of years ago when my other boat Chiquita was rammed in the middle of the night and dismasted by a drunken power boater while on the same mooring. Fortunately, no one was aboard Chiquita at the time; the culprit ran away and was never caught. After replacing the mast and making some other repairs I installed a low current LED anchor light that switches itself on at night and off during the day (the Davis Mega light.) It is powered by an AGM deep cycle battery that is kept charged by a 10 watt solar panel. The anchor light comes on every night throughout the spring, summer, and fall without fail. It is augmented with some solar garden lights at deck level, but these do not last the whole night. Chiquita hasn't been hit again since adding the anchor light to the electrical system! I have more or less duplicated this arrangement on Monita. On Thu, Jan 28, 2016 at 3:06 PM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Jazzy, I have redone my electricals. I am using Aqua Signal nav lights. I drilled a hole in the deck and lined it with epoxy, etc. Then bought a two part four pin plug (I installed a steaming light as well as the mast head lite). Then led the wires via deck plug down to the fuse panel then to storage battery, deep well AGM type. I am also using diode lights which draw a fraction of regular old incandescent bulbs. I am doing all this because I want to be seen at night while I am anchored and asleep. I boated for years on Galveston Bay, Tx. and the cigarette boats there, at 70+ miles an hour could easily skure my boat and kill me and the drunk bast....s would not even know it. That is all I can do to feel safe so that is what I did. I know low tech is good for a lot of reasons except out there what you have to work with is what you brought from home. < https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
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On Thu, Jan 28, 2016 at 2:13 PM, Jazzy <jazzydaze@gmail.com> wrote:
Hiya Steve, Mine came with the very same stuff in a crate! But if it's not to much hassle I'd like to get it all hooked up original. Last night the front nav light came on for the first time in years I bet, from the power panel! It's good to go! Stern light is whooped. Jazz
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
I've always been tickled by the term "masthead light" applied to sailboats. Ironically, that term actually refers to the forward facing white light on a power boat. The analogous light on a sailboat is a "steaming light." Steaming lights are sometimes called masthead lights, but that only breeds confusion because steaming lights are not mounted at the masthead. To confuse things more, sailboats may carry lights at the masthead but, strictly speaking, they should be called anchor lights or all-around lights, depending on the type of light. Semantics aside, I agree that under power after dark you should have a permanently mounted steaming light (or a permanently mounted all-around light). For an anchor light, I think hoisting a temporary light with a halyard is fine. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Thomas Buzzi" <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2016 4:06:44 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Mast Light through Hull... Jazzy, I have redone my electricals. I am using Aqua Signal nav lights. I drilled a hole in the deck and lined it with epoxy, etc. Then bought a two part four pin plug (I installed a steaming light as well as the mast head lite). Then led the wires via deck plug down to the fuse panel then to storage battery, deep well AGM type. I am also using diode lights which draw a fraction of regular old incandescent bulbs. I am doing all this because I want to be seen at night while I am anchored and asleep. I boated for years on Galveston Bay, Tx. and the cigarette boats there, at 70+ miles an hour could easily skure my boat and kill me and the drunk bast....s would not even know it. That is all I can do to feel safe so that is what I did. I know low tech is good for a lot of reasons except out there what you have to work with is what you brought from home. <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Thu, Jan 28, 2016 at 2:13 PM, Jazzy <jazzydaze@gmail.com> wrote:
Hiya Steve, Mine came with the very same stuff in a crate! But if it's not to much hassle I'd like to get it all hooked up original. Last night the front nav light came on for the first time in years I bet, from the power panel! It's good to go! Stern light is whooped. Jazz
participants (5)
-
Henry Rodriguez -
Jazzy -
Steve Trapp -
swwheatley＠comcast.net -
Thomas Buzzi