Just hired two 17 year olds to sand down my teak so I can re-varnish it all. The hard part to me is all that crazy sanding. Anyway I was not happy with how my old varnish held up so any suggestions and application tips please spread them my way :) Thanks Another Wrinkle M 15 #616 Karen & Smiley Magoo252@comcast.net <mailto:Magoo252@comcast.net>
I prefer teak oil. Much easier to maintain and keep the boat looking good. been using this system since 1979. see - https://sagemarineblog.wordpress.com/2015/03/30/spring-comissioning-cleaning... :: Dave Scobie On Jun 5, 2016 11:59 AM, "Karen & Smiley" <magoo252@comcast.net> wrote:
Just hired two 17 year olds to sand down my teak so I can re-varnish it all. The hard part to me is all that crazy sanding. Anyway I was not happy with how my old varnish held up so any suggestions and application tips please spread them my way :)
Thanks Another Wrinkle M 15 #616
Karen & Smiley
Magoo252@comcast.net <mailto:Magoo252@comcast.net>
Me too. I allowed myself to be talked into sanding the teak on my 30 year old M-15 a few years ago. Didn't like how it looked, so I oiled it thoroughly, left the lid sealed on the varnish, and have stuck with oil since then. Steve M-15 # 335 -----Original Message----- From: Dave Scobie Sent: Sunday, June 5, 2016 11:02 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Monty 15 Teak clean up I prefer teak oil. Much easier to maintain and keep the boat looking good. been using this system since 1979. see - https://sagemarineblog.wordpress.com/2015/03/30/spring-comissioning-cleaning... :: Dave Scobie On Jun 5, 2016 11:59 AM, "Karen & Smiley" <magoo252@comcast.net> wrote:
Just hired two 17 year olds to sand down my teak so I can re-varnish it all. The hard part to me is all that crazy sanding. Anyway I was not happy with how my old varnish held up so any suggestions and application tips please spread them my way :)
Thanks Another Wrinkle M 15 #616
Karen & Smiley
Magoo252@comcast.net <mailto:Magoo252@comcast.net>
On 6/5/2016 12:58 PM, Karen & Smiley wrote: Karen & Smiley, A card scraper is an easier way to remove old varnish than using sandpaper. It is faster. Card scrapers are available at any woodworkers supply store. They are a flat plate about 3 X 5 inches, and after sharpening the edges, these become cutting tools and are used for removing the old finish, or to finish raw wood prior to reapplying a coating. The trick with card scrapers is learning how to properly file the edges square and then to raise a burr on both edges using something like the round shank of a screwdriver. As you run this shank over the filed edge at about a 5 degree angle, the round shaft will pull a burr which becomes the cutting edge. If your teak is weathered (grey) then you need teak cleaner to remove the grey. These are available at places like WEST Marine. Just read the instructions very carefully; one part is an acid and the second is a base to neutralize the acid. They do a good job of cleaning weathered teak - but tape off and protect deck areas against drops and inadvertent brush touches. OFF CENTER HARBOR website has a number of excellent How-To videos on painting and finishing a boat, but only various references to teak work in their various videos. Sign on with them and get access to many excellently done videos on a multitude of boat subjects. Maintaining vanished teak is a never ending process. As soon as you have the slightest crack in your varnish surface, you have to touch it up and seal it again. The teak aficionados do that by having a nail polish bottle with its small brush, filled with varnish, so that any teak dings can immediately be repaired. If you don't do that, moisture gets into the crack, the teak in the area starts to become grey, and you are faced with removing all the old finish and starting from bare wood again. The pros talk about a minimum of 6 coats of varnish on teak to properly protect it. Teak oil makes the job a lot easier, but if you finally give up on the maintenance of the teak, just let it become a uniform grey and be done with it. Teak that is in good shape is a joy to behold, but there comes a time when you say, "I'd rather go sailing than spend my time maintaining the teak". Ciao, Connie
Just hired two 17 year olds to sand down my teak so I can re-varnish it all. The hard part to me is all that crazy sanding. Anyway I was not happy with how my old varnish held up so any suggestions and application tips please spread them my way :)
Thanks Another Wrinkle M 15 #616
Karen & Smiley
Magoo252@comcast.net <mailto:Magoo252@comcast.net>
Like Connie says, "I'd rather go sailing than spend my time maintaining the teak". On the exterior of my 1977 Catalina, I replaced all the old teak with new.... and then let it all go sliver. The new teak has never be touched with a drop of varnish on the replaced teak on the exterior. On the inside teak, there are 9 coats of varnish and the shine looks like it's a 1/4" deep. It's worth it to me on the interior, but NOT on the exterior. Judy B From: Conbert Benneck <chbenneck@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, June 5, 2016 12:44 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Monty 15 Teak clean up On 6/5/2016 12:58 PM, Karen & Smiley wrote: Karen & Smiley, A card scraper is an easier way to remove old varnish than using sandpaper. It is faster. Card scrapers are available at any woodworkers supply store. They are a flat plate about 3 X 5 inches, and after sharpening the edges, these become cutting tools and are used for removing the old finish, or to finish raw wood prior to reapplying a coating. The trick with card scrapers is learning how to properly file the edges square and then to raise a burr on both edges using something like the round shank of a screwdriver. As you run this shank over the filed edge at about a 5 degree angle, the round shaft will pull a burr which becomes the cutting edge. If your teak is weathered (grey) then you need teak cleaner to remove the grey. These are available at places like WEST Marine. Just read the instructions very carefully; one part is an acid and the second is a base to neutralize the acid. They do a good job of cleaning weathered teak - but tape off and protect deck areas against drops and inadvertent brush touches. OFF CENTER HARBOR website has a number of excellent How-To videos on painting and finishing a boat, but only various references to teak work in their various videos. Sign on with them and get access to many excellently done videos on a multitude of boat subjects. Maintaining vanished teak is a never ending process. As soon as you have the slightest crack in your varnish surface, you have to touch it up and seal it again. The teak aficionados do that by having a nail polish bottle with its small brush, filled with varnish, so that any teak dings can immediately be repaired. If you don't do that, moisture gets into the crack, the teak in the area starts to become grey, and you are faced with removing all the old finish and starting from bare wood again. The pros talk about a minimum of 6 coats of varnish on teak to properly protect it. Teak oil makes the job a lot easier, but if you finally give up on the maintenance of the teak, just let it become a uniform grey and be done with it. Teak that is in good shape is a joy to behold, but there comes a time when you say, "I'd rather go sailing than spend my time maintaining the teak". Ciao, Connie
Just hired two 17 year olds to sand down my teak so I can re-varnish it all. The hard part to me is all that crazy sanding. Anyway I was not happy with how my old varnish held up so any suggestions and application tips please spread them my way :)
Thanks Another Wrinkle M 15 #616
Karen & Smiley
Magoo252@comcast.net <mailto:Magoo252@comcast.net>
I like the idea of allowing the teak on my M-15 to go silver, then it will match my hair, which has gone that way since I bought the boat. Maybe I should leave the teak oil on the shelf in the garage? Steve M-15 # 335 -----Original Message----- From: Judith Blumhorst, DC Sent: Sunday, June 5, 2016 1:46 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Monty 15 Teak clean up Like Connie says, "I'd rather go sailing than spend my time maintaining the teak". On the exterior of my 1977 Catalina, I replaced all the old teak with new.... and then let it all go sliver. The new teak has never be touched with a drop of varnish on the replaced teak on the exterior. On the inside teak, there are 9 coats of varnish and the shine looks like it's a 1/4" deep. It's worth it to me on the interior, but NOT on the exterior. Judy B From: Conbert Benneck <chbenneck@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, June 5, 2016 12:44 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Monty 15 Teak clean up On 6/5/2016 12:58 PM, Karen & Smiley wrote: Karen & Smiley, A card scraper is an easier way to remove old varnish than using sandpaper. It is faster. Card scrapers are available at any woodworkers supply store. They are a flat plate about 3 X 5 inches, and after sharpening the edges, these become cutting tools and are used for removing the old finish, or to finish raw wood prior to reapplying a coating. The trick with card scrapers is learning how to properly file the edges square and then to raise a burr on both edges using something like the round shank of a screwdriver. As you run this shank over the filed edge at about a 5 degree angle, the round shaft will pull a burr which becomes the cutting edge. If your teak is weathered (grey) then you need teak cleaner to remove the grey. These are available at places like WEST Marine. Just read the instructions very carefully; one part is an acid and the second is a base to neutralize the acid. They do a good job of cleaning weathered teak - but tape off and protect deck areas against drops and inadvertent brush touches. OFF CENTER HARBOR website has a number of excellent How-To videos on painting and finishing a boat, but only various references to teak work in their various videos. Sign on with them and get access to many excellently done videos on a multitude of boat subjects. Maintaining vanished teak is a never ending process. As soon as you have the slightest crack in your varnish surface, you have to touch it up and seal it again. The teak aficionados do that by having a nail polish bottle with its small brush, filled with varnish, so that any teak dings can immediately be repaired. If you don't do that, moisture gets into the crack, the teak in the area starts to become grey, and you are faced with removing all the old finish and starting from bare wood again. The pros talk about a minimum of 6 coats of varnish on teak to properly protect it. Teak oil makes the job a lot easier, but if you finally give up on the maintenance of the teak, just let it become a uniform grey and be done with it. Teak that is in good shape is a joy to behold, but there comes a time when you say, "I'd rather go sailing than spend my time maintaining the teak". Ciao, Connie
Just hired two 17 year olds to sand down my teak so I can re-varnish it all. The hard part to me is all that crazy sanding. Anyway I was not happy with how my old varnish held up so any suggestions and application tips please spread them my way :)
Thanks Another Wrinkle M 15 #616
Karen & Smiley
Magoo252@comcast.net <mailto:Magoo252@comcast.net>
Tropical Teat Oil lasts about a year where regular teak oil just last for a few outings. I use this product on my M-17 and just applied to the teak rails of my new Naples Sabot. Jim M-17 #603 Grace On Sun, Jun 5, 2016 at 2:19 PM, Steve Trapp <stevetrapp@q.com> wrote:
I like the idea of allowing the teak on my M-15 to go silver, then it will match my hair, which has gone that way since I bought the boat. Maybe I should leave the teak oil on the shelf in the garage? Steve M-15 # 335
-----Original Message----- From: Judith Blumhorst, DC Sent: Sunday, June 5, 2016 1:46 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Monty 15 Teak clean up
Like Connie says, "I'd rather go sailing than spend my time maintaining the teak". On the exterior of my 1977 Catalina, I replaced all the old teak with new.... and then let it all go sliver. The new teak has never be touched with a drop of varnish on the replaced teak on the exterior. On the inside teak, there are 9 coats of varnish and the shine looks like it's a 1/4" deep. It's worth it to me on the interior, but NOT on the exterior. Judy B From: Conbert Benneck <chbenneck@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, June 5, 2016 12:44 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Monty 15 Teak clean up
On 6/5/2016 12:58 PM, Karen & Smiley wrote:
Karen & Smiley,
A card scraper is an easier way to remove old varnish than using sandpaper. It is faster.
Card scrapers are available at any woodworkers supply store. They are a flat plate about 3 X 5 inches, and after sharpening the edges, these become cutting tools and are used for removing the old finish, or to finish raw wood prior to reapplying a coating.
The trick with card scrapers is learning how to properly file the edges square and then to raise a burr on both edges using something like the round shank of a screwdriver. As you run this shank over the filed edge at about a 5 degree angle, the round shaft will pull a burr which becomes the cutting edge.
If your teak is weathered (grey) then you need teak cleaner to remove the grey. These are available at places like WEST Marine.
Just read the instructions very carefully; one part is an acid and the second is a base to neutralize the acid. They do a good job of cleaning weathered teak - but tape off and protect deck areas against drops and inadvertent brush touches.
OFF CENTER HARBOR website has a number of excellent How-To videos on painting and finishing a boat, but only various references to teak work in their various videos.
Sign on with them and get access to many excellently done videos on a multitude of boat subjects.
Maintaining vanished teak is a never ending process. As soon as you have the slightest crack in your varnish surface, you have to touch it up and seal it again. The teak aficionados do that by having a nail polish bottle with its small brush, filled with varnish, so that any teak dings can immediately be repaired. If you don't do that, moisture gets into the crack, the teak in the area starts to become grey, and you are faced with removing all the old finish and starting from bare wood again. The pros talk about a minimum of 6 coats of varnish on teak to properly protect it.
Teak oil makes the job a lot easier, but if you finally give up on the maintenance of the teak, just let it become a uniform grey and be done with it.
Teak that is in good shape is a joy to behold, but there comes a time when you say, "I'd rather go sailing than spend my time maintaining the teak".
Ciao,
Connie
Just hired two 17 year olds to sand down my teak so I can re-varnish it
all. The hard part to me is all that crazy sanding. Anyway I was not happy with how my old varnish held up so any suggestions and application tips please spread them my way :)
Thanks Another Wrinkle M 15 #616
Karen & Smiley
Magoo252@comcast.net <mailto:Magoo252@comcast.net>
What kind of oil? Do you have videos of this being applied? On Jun 6, 2016, at 8:43 AM, Jim Ellsworth wrote:
Tropical Teat Oil lasts about a year where regular teak oil just last for a few outings. I use this product on my M-17 and just applied to the teak rails of my new Naples Sabot.
Jim M-17 #603 Grace
On Sun, Jun 5, 2016 at 2:19 PM, Steve Trapp <stevetrapp@q.com> wrote:
I like the idea of allowing the teak on my M-15 to go silver, then it will match my hair, which has gone that way since I bought the boat. Maybe I should leave the teak oil on the shelf in the garage? Steve M-15 # 335
-----Original Message----- From: Judith Blumhorst, DC Sent: Sunday, June 5, 2016 1:46 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Monty 15 Teak clean up
Like Connie says, "I'd rather go sailing than spend my time maintaining the teak". On the exterior of my 1977 Catalina, I replaced all the old teak with new.... and then let it all go sliver. The new teak has never be touched with a drop of varnish on the replaced teak on the exterior. On the inside teak, there are 9 coats of varnish and the shine looks like it's a 1/4" deep. It's worth it to me on the interior, but NOT on the exterior. Judy B From: Conbert Benneck <chbenneck@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, June 5, 2016 12:44 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Monty 15 Teak clean up
On 6/5/2016 12:58 PM, Karen & Smiley wrote:
Karen & Smiley,
A card scraper is an easier way to remove old varnish than using sandpaper. It is faster.
Card scrapers are available at any woodworkers supply store. They are a flat plate about 3 X 5 inches, and after sharpening the edges, these become cutting tools and are used for removing the old finish, or to finish raw wood prior to reapplying a coating.
The trick with card scrapers is learning how to properly file the edges square and then to raise a burr on both edges using something like the round shank of a screwdriver. As you run this shank over the filed edge at about a 5 degree angle, the round shaft will pull a burr which becomes the cutting edge.
If your teak is weathered (grey) then you need teak cleaner to remove the grey. These are available at places like WEST Marine.
Just read the instructions very carefully; one part is an acid and the second is a base to neutralize the acid. They do a good job of cleaning weathered teak - but tape off and protect deck areas against drops and inadvertent brush touches.
OFF CENTER HARBOR website has a number of excellent How-To videos on painting and finishing a boat, but only various references to teak work in their various videos.
Sign on with them and get access to many excellently done videos on a multitude of boat subjects.
Maintaining vanished teak is a never ending process. As soon as you have the slightest crack in your varnish surface, you have to touch it up and seal it again. The teak aficionados do that by having a nail polish bottle with its small brush, filled with varnish, so that any teak dings can immediately be repaired. If you don't do that, moisture gets into the crack, the teak in the area starts to become grey, and you are faced with removing all the old finish and starting from bare wood again. The pros talk about a minimum of 6 coats of varnish on teak to properly protect it.
Teak oil makes the job a lot easier, but if you finally give up on the maintenance of the teak, just let it become a uniform grey and be done with it.
Teak that is in good shape is a joy to behold, but there comes a time when you say, "I'd rather go sailing than spend my time maintaining the teak".
Ciao,
Connie
Just hired two 17 year olds to sand down my teak so I can re-varnish it
all. The hard part to me is all that crazy sanding. Anyway I was not happy with how my old varnish held up so any suggestions and application tips please spread them my way :)
Thanks Another Wrinkle M 15 #616
Karen & Smiley
Magoo252@comcast.net <mailto:Magoo252@comcast.net>
Where does one get this mysterious "Teat" oil? :-) On 06-06-2016 12:21 PM, Howard Audsley wrote:
What kind of oil?
Do you have videos of this being applied?
On Jun 6, 2016, at 8:43 AM, Jim Ellsworth wrote:
Tropical Teat Oil lasts about a year where regular teak oil just last for a few outings. I use this product on my M-17 and just applied to the teak rails of my new Naples Sabot.
Jim M-17 #603 Grace
On Sun, Jun 5, 2016 at 2:19 PM, Steve Trapp <stevetrapp@q.com> wrote:
I like the idea of allowing the teak on my M-15 to go silver, then it will match my hair, which has gone that way since I bought the boat. Maybe I should leave the teak oil on the shelf in the garage? Steve M-15 # 335
-----Original Message----- From: Judith Blumhorst, DC Sent: Sunday, June 5, 2016 1:46 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Monty 15 Teak clean up
Like Connie says, "I'd rather go sailing than spend my time maintaining the teak". On the exterior of my 1977 Catalina, I replaced all the old teak with new.... and then let it all go sliver. The new teak has never be touched with a drop of varnish on the replaced teak on the exterior. On the inside teak, there are 9 coats of varnish and the shine looks like it's a 1/4" deep. It's worth it to me on the interior, but NOT on the exterior. Judy B From: Conbert Benneck <chbenneck@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, June 5, 2016 12:44 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Monty 15 Teak clean up
On 6/5/2016 12:58 PM, Karen & Smiley wrote:
Karen & Smiley,
A card scraper is an easier way to remove old varnish than using sandpaper. It is faster.
Card scrapers are available at any woodworkers supply store. They are a flat plate about 3 X 5 inches, and after sharpening the edges, these become cutting tools and are used for removing the old finish, or to finish raw wood prior to reapplying a coating.
The trick with card scrapers is learning how to properly file the edges square and then to raise a burr on both edges using something like the round shank of a screwdriver. As you run this shank over the filed edge at about a 5 degree angle, the round shaft will pull a burr which becomes the cutting edge.
If your teak is weathered (grey) then you need teak cleaner to remove the grey. These are available at places like WEST Marine.
Just read the instructions very carefully; one part is an acid and the second is a base to neutralize the acid. They do a good job of cleaning weathered teak - but tape off and protect deck areas against drops and inadvertent brush touches.
OFF CENTER HARBOR website has a number of excellent How-To videos on painting and finishing a boat, but only various references to teak work in their various videos.
Sign on with them and get access to many excellently done videos on a multitude of boat subjects.
Maintaining vanished teak is a never ending process. As soon as you have the slightest crack in your varnish surface, you have to touch it up and seal it again. The teak aficionados do that by having a nail polish bottle with its small brush, filled with varnish, so that any teak dings can immediately be repaired. If you don't do that, moisture gets into the crack, the teak in the area starts to become grey, and you are faced with removing all the old finish and starting from bare wood again. The pros talk about a minimum of 6 coats of varnish on teak to properly protect it.
Teak oil makes the job a lot easier, but if you finally give up on the maintenance of the teak, just let it become a uniform grey and be done with it.
Teak that is in good shape is a joy to behold, but there comes a time when you say, "I'd rather go sailing than spend my time maintaining the teak".
Ciao,
Connie
Just hired two 17 year olds to sand down my teak so I can re-varnish it
all. The hard part to me is all that crazy sanding. Anyway I was not happy with how my old varnish held up so any suggestions and application tips please spread them my way :)
Thanks Another Wrinkle M 15 #616
Karen & Smiley
Magoo252@comcast.net <mailto:Magoo252@comcast.net>
That's "teak" oil... :-) Though it's not necessarily just for teak, it's a penetrating oil finish for hardwoods, teak being very common for outdoor wood (boats, deck furniture, etc.). Ace Hardware sells Dalys brand ("seafin" teak oil, and "ship'n'shore" penetrating oil, both of which I'm experimenting with). I've read good reviews of Dalys products (not all Ace stores stock it, YMMV). There's many other brands, that's just my current situation. cheers, John S. On 06/06/2016 10:24 AM, tynerjr@md.metrocast.net wrote:
Where does one get this mysterious "Teat" oil? :-)
On 06-06-2016 12:21 PM, Howard Audsley wrote:
What kind of oil?
Do you have videos of this being applied?
On Jun 6, 2016, at 8:43 AM, Jim Ellsworth wrote:
Tropical Teat Oil lasts about a year where regular teak oil just last for a few outings. I use this product on my M-17 and just applied to the teak rails of my new Naples Sabot.
Jim M-17 #603 Grace
On Sun, Jun 5, 2016 at 2:19 PM, Steve Trapp <stevetrapp@q.com> wrote:
I like the idea of allowing the teak on my M-15 to go silver, then it will match my hair, which has gone that way since I bought the boat. Maybe I should leave the teak oil on the shelf in the garage? Steve M-15 # 335
-----Original Message----- From: Judith Blumhorst, DC Sent: Sunday, June 5, 2016 1:46 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Monty 15 Teak clean up
Like Connie says, "I'd rather go sailing than spend my time maintaining the teak". On the exterior of my 1977 Catalina, I replaced all the old teak with new.... and then let it all go sliver. The new teak has never be touched with a drop of varnish on the replaced teak on the exterior. On the inside teak, there are 9 coats of varnish and the shine looks like it's a 1/4" deep. It's worth it to me on the interior, but NOT on the exterior. Judy B From: Conbert Benneck <chbenneck@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, June 5, 2016 12:44 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Monty 15 Teak clean up
On 6/5/2016 12:58 PM, Karen & Smiley wrote:
Karen & Smiley,
A card scraper is an easier way to remove old varnish than using sandpaper. It is faster.
Card scrapers are available at any woodworkers supply store. They are a flat plate about 3 X 5 inches, and after sharpening the edges, these become cutting tools and are used for removing the old finish, or to finish raw wood prior to reapplying a coating.
The trick with card scrapers is learning how to properly file the edges square and then to raise a burr on both edges using something like the round shank of a screwdriver. As you run this shank over the filed edge at about a 5 degree angle, the round shaft will pull a burr which becomes the cutting edge.
If your teak is weathered (grey) then you need teak cleaner to remove the grey. These are available at places like WEST Marine.
Just read the instructions very carefully; one part is an acid and the second is a base to neutralize the acid. They do a good job of cleaning weathered teak - but tape off and protect deck areas against drops and inadvertent brush touches.
OFF CENTER HARBOR website has a number of excellent How-To videos on painting and finishing a boat, but only various references to teak work in their various videos.
Sign on with them and get access to many excellently done videos on a multitude of boat subjects.
Maintaining vanished teak is a never ending process. As soon as you have the slightest crack in your varnish surface, you have to touch it up and seal it again. The teak aficionados do that by having a nail polish bottle with its small brush, filled with varnish, so that any teak dings can immediately be repaired. If you don't do that, moisture gets into the crack, the teak in the area starts to become grey, and you are faced with removing all the old finish and starting from bare wood again. The pros talk about a minimum of 6 coats of varnish on teak to properly protect it.
Teak oil makes the job a lot easier, but if you finally give up on the maintenance of the teak, just let it become a uniform grey and be done with it.
Teak that is in good shape is a joy to behold, but there comes a time when you say, "I'd rather go sailing than spend my time maintaining the teak".
Ciao,
Connie
Just hired two 17 year olds to sand down my teak so I can re-varnish it
all. The hard part to me is all that crazy sanding. Anyway I was not happy with how my old varnish held up so any suggestions and application tips please spread them my way :)
Thanks Another Wrinkle M 15 #616
Karen & Smiley
Magoo252@comcast.net <mailto:Magoo252@comcast.net>
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
The teak oil I am using is Star brite Tropical Teak Oil Sealer in Classic Teak. You can get it at West Marine. 32oz can is close to $40 but on a Monty that would last you probably 5 years. Jim M-17 #603 Grace On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 10:31 AM, John Schinnerer <john@eco-living.net> wrote:
That's "teak" oil... :-) Though it's not necessarily just for teak, it's a penetrating oil finish for hardwoods, teak being very common for outdoor wood (boats, deck furniture, etc.).
Ace Hardware sells Dalys brand ("seafin" teak oil, and "ship'n'shore" penetrating oil, both of which I'm experimenting with). I've read good reviews of Dalys products (not all Ace stores stock it, YMMV).
There's many other brands, that's just my current situation.
cheers, John S.
On 06/06/2016 10:24 AM, tynerjr@md.metrocast.net wrote:
Where does one get this mysterious "Teat" oil? :-)
On 06-06-2016 12:21 PM, Howard Audsley wrote:
What kind of oil?
Do you have videos of this being applied?
On Jun 6, 2016, at 8:43 AM, Jim Ellsworth wrote:
Tropical Teat Oil lasts about a year where regular teak oil just last
for a few outings. I use this product on my M-17 and just applied to the teak rails of my new Naples Sabot.
Jim M-17 #603 Grace
On Sun, Jun 5, 2016 at 2:19 PM, Steve Trapp <stevetrapp@q.com> wrote:
I like the idea of allowing the teak on my M-15 to go silver, then it
will match my hair, which has gone that way since I bought the boat. Maybe I should leave the teak oil on the shelf in the garage? Steve M-15 # 335
-----Original Message----- From: Judith Blumhorst, DC Sent: Sunday, June 5, 2016 1:46 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Monty 15 Teak clean up
Like Connie says, "I'd rather go sailing than spend my time maintaining the teak". On the exterior of my 1977 Catalina, I replaced all the old teak with new.... and then let it all go sliver. The new teak has never be touched with a drop of varnish on the replaced teak on the exterior. On the inside teak, there are 9 coats of varnish and the shine looks like it's a 1/4" deep. It's worth it to me on the interior, but NOT on the exterior. Judy B From: Conbert Benneck <chbenneck@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, June 5, 2016 12:44 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Monty 15 Teak clean up
On 6/5/2016 12:58 PM, Karen & Smiley wrote:
Karen & Smiley,
A card scraper is an easier way to remove old varnish than using sandpaper. It is faster.
Card scrapers are available at any woodworkers supply store. They are a flat plate about 3 X 5 inches, and after sharpening the edges, these become cutting tools and are used for removing the old finish, or to finish raw wood prior to reapplying a coating.
The trick with card scrapers is learning how to properly file the edges square and then to raise a burr on both edges using something like the round shank of a screwdriver. As you run this shank over the filed edge at about a 5 degree angle, the round shaft will pull a burr which becomes the cutting edge.
If your teak is weathered (grey) then you need teak cleaner to remove the grey. These are available at places like WEST Marine.
Just read the instructions very carefully; one part is an acid and the second is a base to neutralize the acid. They do a good job of cleaning weathered teak - but tape off and protect deck areas against drops and inadvertent brush touches.
OFF CENTER HARBOR website has a number of excellent How-To videos on painting and finishing a boat, but only various references to teak work in their various videos.
Sign on with them and get access to many excellently done videos on a multitude of boat subjects.
Maintaining vanished teak is a never ending process. As soon as you have the slightest crack in your varnish surface, you have to touch it up and seal it again. The teak aficionados do that by having a nail polish bottle with its small brush, filled with varnish, so that any teak dings can immediately be repaired. If you don't do that, moisture gets into the crack, the teak in the area starts to become grey, and you are faced with removing all the old finish and starting from bare wood again. The pros talk about a minimum of 6 coats of varnish on teak to properly protect it.
Teak oil makes the job a lot easier, but if you finally give up on the maintenance of the teak, just let it become a uniform grey and be done with it.
Teak that is in good shape is a joy to behold, but there comes a time when you say, "I'd rather go sailing than spend my time maintaining the teak".
Ciao,
Connie
Just hired two 17 year olds to sand down my teak so I can re-varnish it
all. The hard part to me is all that crazy sanding. Anyway I was not happy with how my old varnish held up so any suggestions and application tips please spread them my way :)
Thanks Another Wrinkle M 15 #616
Karen & Smiley
Magoo252@comcast.net <mailto:Magoo252@comcast.net>
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
What, the walmart of boat stuff? I bought a smaller can of Star Brite at a local boatshop, probably paid more per ounce, but is has been enough to take care of my M-15 for a few years, and I have the satisfaction of having shopped locally and kept at least some of my $$ close to home. Steve M-15 # 335 -----Original Message----- From: Jim Ellsworth Sent: Monday, June 6, 2016 7:16 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Monty 15 Teak clean up The teak oil I am using is Star brite Tropical Teak Oil Sealer in Classic Teak. You can get it at West Marine. 32oz can is close to $40 but on a Monty that would last you probably 5 years. Jim M-17 #603 Grace On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 10:31 AM, John Schinnerer <john@eco-living.net> wrote:
That's "teak" oil... :-) Though it's not necessarily just for teak, it's a penetrating oil finish for hardwoods, teak being very common for outdoor wood (boats, deck furniture, etc.).
Ace Hardware sells Dalys brand ("seafin" teak oil, and "ship'n'shore" penetrating oil, both of which I'm experimenting with). I've read good reviews of Dalys products (not all Ace stores stock it, YMMV).
There's many other brands, that's just my current situation.
cheers, John S.
On 06/06/2016 10:24 AM, tynerjr@md.metrocast.net wrote:
Where does one get this mysterious "Teat" oil? :-)
On 06-06-2016 12:21 PM, Howard Audsley wrote:
What kind of oil?
Do you have videos of this being applied?
On Jun 6, 2016, at 8:43 AM, Jim Ellsworth wrote:
Tropical Teat Oil lasts about a year where regular teak oil just last
for a few outings. I use this product on my M-17 and just applied to the teak rails of my new Naples Sabot.
Jim M-17 #603 Grace
On Sun, Jun 5, 2016 at 2:19 PM, Steve Trapp <stevetrapp@q.com> wrote:
I like the idea of allowing the teak on my M-15 to go silver, then it
will match my hair, which has gone that way since I bought the boat. Maybe I should leave the teak oil on the shelf in the garage? Steve M-15 # 335
-----Original Message----- From: Judith Blumhorst, DC Sent: Sunday, June 5, 2016 1:46 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Monty 15 Teak clean up
Like Connie says, "I'd rather go sailing than spend my time maintaining the teak". On the exterior of my 1977 Catalina, I replaced all the old teak with new.... and then let it all go sliver. The new teak has never be touched with a drop of varnish on the replaced teak on the exterior. On the inside teak, there are 9 coats of varnish and the shine looks like it's a 1/4" deep. It's worth it to me on the interior, but NOT on the exterior. Judy B From: Conbert Benneck <chbenneck@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, June 5, 2016 12:44 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Monty 15 Teak clean up
On 6/5/2016 12:58 PM, Karen & Smiley wrote:
Karen & Smiley,
A card scraper is an easier way to remove old varnish than using sandpaper. It is faster.
Card scrapers are available at any woodworkers supply store. They are a flat plate about 3 X 5 inches, and after sharpening the edges, these become cutting tools and are used for removing the old finish, or to finish raw wood prior to reapplying a coating.
The trick with card scrapers is learning how to properly file the edges square and then to raise a burr on both edges using something like the round shank of a screwdriver. As you run this shank over the filed edge at about a 5 degree angle, the round shaft will pull a burr which becomes the cutting edge.
If your teak is weathered (grey) then you need teak cleaner to remove the grey. These are available at places like WEST Marine.
Just read the instructions very carefully; one part is an acid and the second is a base to neutralize the acid. They do a good job of cleaning weathered teak - but tape off and protect deck areas against drops and inadvertent brush touches.
OFF CENTER HARBOR website has a number of excellent How-To videos on painting and finishing a boat, but only various references to teak work in their various videos.
Sign on with them and get access to many excellently done videos on a multitude of boat subjects.
Maintaining vanished teak is a never ending process. As soon as you have the slightest crack in your varnish surface, you have to touch it up and seal it again. The teak aficionados do that by having a nail polish bottle with its small brush, filled with varnish, so that any teak dings can immediately be repaired. If you don't do that, moisture gets into the crack, the teak in the area starts to become grey, and you are faced with removing all the old finish and starting from bare wood again. The pros talk about a minimum of 6 coats of varnish on teak to properly protect it.
Teak oil makes the job a lot easier, but if you finally give up on the maintenance of the teak, just let it become a uniform grey and be done with it.
Teak that is in good shape is a joy to behold, but there comes a time when you say, "I'd rather go sailing than spend my time maintaining the teak".
Ciao,
Connie
Just hired two 17 year olds to sand down my teak so I can re-varnish it
all. The hard part to me is all that crazy sanding. Anyway I was not happy with how my old varnish held up so any suggestions and application tips please spread them my way :)
Thanks Another Wrinkle M 15 #616
Karen & Smiley
Magoo252@comcast.net <mailto:Magoo252@comcast.net>
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
participants (9)
-
Conbert Benneck -
Dave Scobie -
Howard Audsley -
Jim Ellsworth -
John Schinnerer -
Judith Blumhorst, DC -
Karen & Smiley -
Steve Trapp -
tynerjr＠md.metrocast.net