While pressure washing the old bottom paint off my M17 I managed to dislodge hundreds of pencil eraser sized bits of the yellow gelcoat just above the boot top.All of the spots are round, like bubbles formed under the gelcoat were popped by the water jet. It almost seemed that there was some water migration along that line between the white boottop and the yellow hull. What is the best way to handle all the missing yellow gelcoat? The coat underneath is white and doesn't look like just a resin layer or fiberglas cloth weave. Anybody know what this second coat of material might be composed of? And how best to fill in all those holes? Would just making up some yellow gelcoat and troweling it into the holes work? I am not too worried about cosmetics at this point.I would just wet sand the patches and maybe coat everything with the "Glass" coating I used two years ago which has held up very well. I will be keeping the boat in a fresh water lake this year here in central Texas. Any ideas would be appreciated. Fair winds, Tom B. <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon> Virus-free. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=link> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
Hi Tom those sure sound like blisters. Fresh water BTW is more aggressive than salt in the osmosis that forms blisters. So if you have not done a barrier coat you might think about it. Why they are above your boot stripe I cannot say. I had blisters on my M-17 in the stern port quarter that seemed to have resulted from the boat being wrapped. Anyway you can go look at the multitude of online information about blisters and repairing. Epoxy is what I used after grinding each out some. I have treated blisters on a compac, two of my M boats. It is not a huge deal but takes a little effort. Best of luck. Robbin currently no M boats (but always looking), Marshal 22 & Gig Harbor Lobster Boat Robbin Roddewig robbin.roddewig@verizon.net -----Original Message----- From: Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thu, Mar 8, 2018 10:08 pm Subject: M_Boats: Gelcoat While pressure washing the old bottom paint off my M17 I managed to dislodge hundreds of pencil eraser sized bits of the yellow gelcoat just above the boot top.All of the spots are round, like bubbles formed under the gelcoat were popped by the water jet. It almost seemed that there was some water migration along that line between the white boottop and the yellow hull. What is the best way to handle all the missing yellow gelcoat? The coat underneath is white and doesn't look like just a resin layer or fiberglas cloth weave. Anybody know what this second coat of material might be composed of? And how best to fill in all those holes? Would just making up some yellow gelcoat and troweling it into the holes work? I am not too worried about cosmetics at this point.I would just wet sand the patches and maybe coat everything with the "Glass" coating I used two years ago which has held up very well. I will be keeping the boat in a fresh water lake this year here in central Texas. Any ideas would be appreciated. Fair winds, Tom B. <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon> Virus-free. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=link> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
Thanks, Robbin. There are several clusters of them numbering about 900 or so. I am going to use citrus to clean off the old bottom paint and then use a barrier coat, #2000. Above the waterline I think some yellow tinted epoxy then some NuGlass to waterproof it. Fair winds, Tom B. <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon> Virus-free. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=link> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 6:58 AM, Robbin Roddewig <robbin.roddewig@verizon.net
wrote:
Hi Tom those sure sound like blisters. Fresh water BTW is more aggressive than salt in the osmosis that forms blisters. So if you have not done a barrier coat you might think about it. Why they are above your boot stripe I cannot say. I had blisters on my M-17 in the stern port quarter that seemed to have resulted from the boat being wrapped. Anyway you can go look at the multitude of online information about blisters and repairing. Epoxy is what I used after grinding each out some. I have treated blisters on a compac, two of my M boats. It is not a huge deal but takes a little effort. Best of luck.
Robbin
currently no M boats (but always looking), Marshal 22 & Gig Harbor Lobster Boat
Robbin Roddewig robbin.roddewig@verizon.net
-----Original Message----- From: Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman. xmission.com> Sent: Thu, Mar 8, 2018 10:08 pm Subject: M_Boats: Gelcoat
While pressure washing the old bottom paint off my M17 I managed to dislodge hundreds of pencil eraser sized bits of the yellow gelcoat just above the boot top.All of the spots are round, like bubbles formed under the gelcoat were popped by the water jet. It almost seemed that there was some water migration along that line between the white boottop and the yellow hull. What is the best way to handle all the missing yellow gelcoat? The coat underneath is white and doesn't look like just a resin layer or fiberglas cloth weave. Anybody know what this second coat of material might be composed of? And how best to fill in all those holes? Would just making up some yellow gelcoat and troweling it into the holes work? I am not too worried about cosmetics at this point.I would just wet sand the patches and maybe coat everything with the "Glass" coating I used two years ago which has held up very well. I will be keeping the boat in a fresh water lake this year here in central Texas. Any ideas would be appreciated. Fair winds, Tom B.
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Hey Tom, Interesting, if I understand you correctly these blisters are forming well above the water line along the boot top???... I barrier coated the bottom of my M17 in my second season of owning her, but I stopped the barrier coat just at the bottom of the boot top... I am planing to start painting the boot with anti-fouling as I was getting some growth along the bottom of the boot top, perhaps I will barrier the boot to as well prior to applying the antifouling.. Keith *Keith R. Martin, P.Eng.* *Burnaby, B.C. Canada* *Serenity, M17 #353* On 9 March 2018 at 16:33, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Thanks, Robbin. There are several clusters of them numbering about 900 or so. I am going to use citrus to clean off the old bottom paint and then use a barrier coat, #2000. Above the waterline I think some yellow tinted epoxy then some NuGlass to waterproof it. Fair winds, Tom B.
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On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 6:58 AM, Robbin Roddewig < robbin.roddewig@verizon.net
wrote:
Hi Tom those sure sound like blisters. Fresh water BTW is more aggressive than salt in the osmosis that forms blisters. So if you have not done a barrier coat you might think about it. Why they are above your boot stripe I cannot say. I had blisters on my M-17 in the stern port quarter that seemed to have resulted from the boat being wrapped. Anyway you can go look at the multitude of online information about blisters and repairing. Epoxy is what I used after grinding each out some. I have treated blisters on a compac, two of my M boats. It is not a huge deal but takes a little effort. Best of luck.
Robbin
currently no M boats (but always looking), Marshal 22 & Gig Harbor Lobster Boat
Robbin Roddewig robbin.roddewig@verizon.net
-----Original Message----- From: Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman. xmission.com> Sent: Thu, Mar 8, 2018 10:08 pm Subject: M_Boats: Gelcoat
While pressure washing the old bottom paint off my M17 I managed to dislodge hundreds of pencil eraser sized bits of the yellow gelcoat just above the boot top.All of the spots are round, like bubbles formed under the gelcoat were popped by the water jet. It almost seemed that there was some water migration along that line between the white boottop and the yellow hull. What is the best way to handle all the missing yellow gelcoat? The coat underneath is white and doesn't look like just a resin layer or fiberglas cloth weave. Anybody know what this second coat of material might be composed of? And how best to fill in all those holes? Would just making up some yellow gelcoat and troweling it into the holes work? I am not too worried about cosmetics at this point.I would just wet sand the patches and maybe coat everything with the "Glass" coating I used two years ago which has held up very well. I will be keeping the boat in a fresh water lake this year here in central Texas. Any ideas would be appreciated. Fair winds, Tom B.
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Can someone clarify 'boot' and 'boot top' here? I am assuming it means 'bootstripe', e.g. the stripe at the waterline...but 'bottom of boot top' and 'well above the waterline at boot top' are confusing me. thanks, John S. On 03/09/2018 04:47 PM, Keith R. Martin wrote:
Hey Tom,
Interesting, if I understand you correctly these blisters are forming well above the water line along the boot top???...
I barrier coated the bottom of my M17 in my second season of owning her, but I stopped the barrier coat just at the bottom of the boot top...
I am planing to start painting the boot with anti-fouling as I was getting some growth along the bottom of the boot top, perhaps I will barrier the boot to as well prior to applying the antifouling..
Keith
*Keith R. Martin, P.Eng.*
*Burnaby, B.C. Canada* *Serenity, M17 #353*
On 9 March 2018 at 16:33, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Thanks, Robbin. There are several clusters of them numbering about 900 or so. I am going to use citrus to clean off the old bottom paint and then use a barrier coat, #2000. Above the waterline I think some yellow tinted epoxy then some NuGlass to waterproof it. Fair winds, Tom B.
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On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 6:58 AM, Robbin Roddewig < robbin.roddewig@verizon.net
wrote:
Hi Tom those sure sound like blisters. Fresh water BTW is more aggressive than salt in the osmosis that forms blisters. So if you have not done a barrier coat you might think about it. Why they are above your boot stripe I cannot say. I had blisters on my M-17 in the stern port quarter that seemed to have resulted from the boat being wrapped. Anyway you can go look at the multitude of online information about blisters and repairing. Epoxy is what I used after grinding each out some. I have treated blisters on a compac, two of my M boats. It is not a huge deal but takes a little effort. Best of luck.
Robbin
currently no M boats (but always looking), Marshal 22 & Gig Harbor Lobster Boat
Robbin Roddewig robbin.roddewig@verizon.net
-----Original Message----- From: Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman. xmission.com> Sent: Thu, Mar 8, 2018 10:08 pm Subject: M_Boats: Gelcoat
While pressure washing the old bottom paint off my M17 I managed to dislodge hundreds of pencil eraser sized bits of the yellow gelcoat just above the boot top.All of the spots are round, like bubbles formed under the gelcoat were popped by the water jet. It almost seemed that there was some water migration along that line between the white boottop and the yellow hull. What is the best way to handle all the missing yellow gelcoat? The coat underneath is white and doesn't look like just a resin layer or fiberglas cloth weave. Anybody know what this second coat of material might be composed of? And how best to fill in all those holes? Would just making up some yellow gelcoat and troweling it into the holes work? I am not too worried about cosmetics at this point.I would just wet sand the patches and maybe coat everything with the "Glass" coating I used two years ago which has held up very well. I will be keeping the boat in a fresh water lake this year here in central Texas. Any ideas would be appreciated. Fair winds, Tom B.
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-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
Hey John, yeah dashed the comment off in a hurry.. anywhere in my comments you can read boot as bootstripe.. As "boot top" = "top of bootstripe" Keith *Keith R. Martin, P.Eng.* *Burnaby, B.C. Canada* *Serenity, M17 #353* On 9 March 2018 at 17:05, John Schinnerer <john@eco-living.net> wrote:
Can someone clarify 'boot' and 'boot top' here? I am assuming it means 'bootstripe', e.g. the stripe at the waterline...but 'bottom of boot top' and 'well above the waterline at boot top' are confusing me.
thanks, John S.
On 03/09/2018 04:47 PM, Keith R. Martin wrote:
Hey Tom,
Interesting, if I understand you correctly these blisters are forming well above the water line along the boot top???...
I barrier coated the bottom of my M17 in my second season of owning her, but I stopped the barrier coat just at the bottom of the boot top...
I am planing to start painting the boot with anti-fouling as I was getting some growth along the bottom of the boot top, perhaps I will barrier the boot to as well prior to applying the antifouling..
Keith
*Keith R. Martin, P.Eng.*
*Burnaby, B.C. Canada* *Serenity, M17 #353*
On 9 March 2018 at 16:33, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Thanks, Robbin. There are several clusters of them numbering about 900 or
so. I am going to use citrus to clean off the old bottom paint and then use a barrier coat, #2000. Above the waterline I think some yellow tinted epoxy then some NuGlass to waterproof it. Fair winds, Tom B.
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On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 6:58 AM, Robbin Roddewig < robbin.roddewig@verizon.net
wrote:
Hi Tom
those sure sound like blisters. Fresh water BTW is more aggressive than salt in the osmosis that forms blisters. So if you have not done a
barrier
coat you might think about it. Why they are above your boot stripe I cannot say. I had blisters on my M-17 in the stern port quarter that seemed to have resulted from the boat being wrapped. Anyway you can go look at the multitude of online information about blisters and repairing. Epoxy is what I used after grinding each out
some.
I have treated blisters on a compac, two of my M boats. It is not a huge deal but takes a little effort. Best of luck.
Robbin
currently no M boats (but always looking), Marshal 22 & Gig Harbor Lobster Boat
Robbin Roddewig robbin.roddewig@verizon.net
-----Original Message----- From: Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman. xmission.com> Sent: Thu, Mar 8, 2018 10:08 pm Subject: M_Boats: Gelcoat
While pressure washing the old bottom paint off my M17 I managed to dislodge hundreds of pencil eraser sized bits of the yellow gelcoat just above the boot top.All of the spots are round, like bubbles formed under the gelcoat were popped by the water jet. It almost seemed that there was some water migration along that line between the white boottop and the yellow hull. What is the best way to handle all the missing yellow gelcoat? The coat underneath is white and doesn't look like just a resin layer or fiberglas cloth weave. Anybody know what this second coat of material might be composed of? And how best to fill in all those holes? Would just making
up
some yellow gelcoat and troweling it into the holes work? I am not too worried about cosmetics at this point.I would just wet sand the patches
and
maybe coat everything with the "Glass" coating I used two years ago which has held up very well. I will be keeping the boat in a fresh water lake this year here in central Texas. Any ideas would be appreciated. Fair winds, Tom B.
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-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design
- Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
OK, thanks! I don't generally think of the top of a bootstripe as "well above the waterline" since as Tom just said, a little extra weight here or there will make that inch or so of difference...the toe rail, now that I consider well above the waterline! Barring unfortunate occurrences that is... cheers, John S. On 03/09/2018 05:11 PM, Keith R. Martin wrote:
Hey John,
yeah dashed the comment off in a hurry.. anywhere in my comments you can read boot as bootstripe.. As "boot top" = "top of bootstripe"
Keith
*Keith R. Martin, P.Eng.*
*Burnaby, B.C. Canada* *Serenity, M17 #353*
On 9 March 2018 at 17:05, John Schinnerer <john@eco-living.net> wrote:
Can someone clarify 'boot' and 'boot top' here? I am assuming it means 'bootstripe', e.g. the stripe at the waterline...but 'bottom of boot top' and 'well above the waterline at boot top' are confusing me.
thanks, John S.
On 03/09/2018 04:47 PM, Keith R. Martin wrote:
Hey Tom,
Interesting, if I understand you correctly these blisters are forming well above the water line along the boot top???...
I barrier coated the bottom of my M17 in my second season of owning her, but I stopped the barrier coat just at the bottom of the boot top...
I am planing to start painting the boot with anti-fouling as I was getting some growth along the bottom of the boot top, perhaps I will barrier the boot to as well prior to applying the antifouling..
Keith
*Keith R. Martin, P.Eng.*
*Burnaby, B.C. Canada* *Serenity, M17 #353*
On 9 March 2018 at 16:33, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Thanks, Robbin. There are several clusters of them numbering about 900 or
so. I am going to use citrus to clean off the old bottom paint and then use a barrier coat, #2000. Above the waterline I think some yellow tinted epoxy then some NuGlass to waterproof it. Fair winds, Tom B.
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On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 6:58 AM, Robbin Roddewig < robbin.roddewig@verizon.net
wrote:
Hi Tom
those sure sound like blisters. Fresh water BTW is more aggressive than salt in the osmosis that forms blisters. So if you have not done a
barrier
coat you might think about it. Why they are above your boot stripe I cannot say. I had blisters on my M-17 in the stern port quarter that seemed to have resulted from the boat being wrapped. Anyway you can go look at the multitude of online information about blisters and repairing. Epoxy is what I used after grinding each out
some.
I have treated blisters on a compac, two of my M boats. It is not a huge deal but takes a little effort. Best of luck.
Robbin
currently no M boats (but always looking), Marshal 22 & Gig Harbor Lobster Boat
Robbin Roddewig robbin.roddewig@verizon.net
-----Original Message----- From: Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman. xmission.com> Sent: Thu, Mar 8, 2018 10:08 pm Subject: M_Boats: Gelcoat
While pressure washing the old bottom paint off my M17 I managed to dislodge hundreds of pencil eraser sized bits of the yellow gelcoat just above the boot top.All of the spots are round, like bubbles formed under the gelcoat were popped by the water jet. It almost seemed that there was some water migration along that line between the white boottop and the yellow hull. What is the best way to handle all the missing yellow gelcoat? The coat underneath is white and doesn't look like just a resin layer or fiberglas cloth weave. Anybody know what this second coat of material might be composed of? And how best to fill in all those holes? Would just making
up
some yellow gelcoat and troweling it into the holes work? I am not too worried about cosmetics at this point.I would just wet sand the patches
and
maybe coat everything with the "Glass" coating I used two years ago which has held up very well. I will be keeping the boat in a fresh water lake this year here in central Texas. Any ideas would be appreciated. Fair winds, Tom B.
<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_ source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon> Virus-free. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_ source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=link> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design
- Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
Hi Keith, I would. Especially if you are mooring in fresh water. In that case any extra weight in the boat will sink your bootstripe to its top border and perhaps above that. I guess it would look kind of funky if barrier coat was gray if you did the strake above the bootstripe top. I may do that anyway. My series 27 battery added a lot of weight to the boat. Someone on this site said how they used smaller dry cell batteries and diode lighting to get away from the car battery setup. I may try that. Fair winds, Tom B <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon> Virus-free. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=link> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 6:47 PM, Keith R. Martin < keith.richard.martin@gmail.com> wrote:
Hey Tom,
Interesting, if I understand you correctly these blisters are forming well above the water line along the boot top???...
I barrier coated the bottom of my M17 in my second season of owning her, but I stopped the barrier coat just at the bottom of the boot top...
I am planing to start painting the boot with anti-fouling as I was getting some growth along the bottom of the boot top, perhaps I will barrier the boot to as well prior to applying the antifouling..
Keith
*Keith R. Martin, P.Eng.*
*Burnaby, B.C. Canada* *Serenity, M17 #353*
On 9 March 2018 at 16:33, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Thanks, Robbin. There are several clusters of them numbering about 900 or so. I am going to use citrus to clean off the old bottom paint and then use a barrier coat, #2000. Above the waterline I think some yellow tinted epoxy then some NuGlass to waterproof it. Fair winds, Tom B.
<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_ source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon> Virus-free. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_ source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=link> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 6:58 AM, Robbin Roddewig < robbin.roddewig@verizon.net
wrote:
Hi Tom those sure sound like blisters. Fresh water BTW is more aggressive than salt in the osmosis that forms blisters. So if you have not done a barrier coat you might think about it. Why they are above your boot stripe I cannot say. I had blisters on my M-17 in the stern port quarter that seemed to have resulted from the boat being wrapped. Anyway you can go look at the multitude of online information about blisters and repairing. Epoxy is what I used after grinding each out some. I have treated blisters on a compac, two of my M boats. It is not a huge deal but takes a little effort. Best of luck.
Robbin
currently no M boats (but always looking), Marshal 22 & Gig Harbor Lobster Boat
Robbin Roddewig robbin.roddewig@verizon.net
-----Original Message----- From: Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman. xmission.com> Sent: Thu, Mar 8, 2018 10:08 pm Subject: M_Boats: Gelcoat
While pressure washing the old bottom paint off my M17 I managed to dislodge hundreds of pencil eraser sized bits of the yellow gelcoat just above the boot top.All of the spots are round, like bubbles formed under the gelcoat were popped by the water jet. It almost seemed that there was some water migration along that line between the white boottop and the yellow hull. What is the best way to handle all the missing yellow gelcoat? The coat underneath is white and doesn't look like just a resin layer or fiberglas cloth weave. Anybody know what this second coat of material might be composed of? And how best to fill in all those holes? Would just making up some yellow gelcoat and troweling it into the holes work? I am not too worried about cosmetics at this point.I would just wet sand the patches and maybe coat everything with the "Glass" coating I used two years ago which has held up very well. I will be keeping the boat in a fresh water lake this year here in central Texas. Any ideas would be appreciated. Fair winds, Tom B.
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Hi Tom, I am in salt water here in Vancouver, however Serenity being equipped for coastal exploration certainly carries a little more weight. The 13lb rocna, a group 24 AGM battery, 20 litres of fresh water storage, 6hp merc, inflatable kayak, spare anchor & tools, etc etc, all add up so she sits a touch deeper in the water.... nobody is going to confuse her with a racer ;)) Good luck with your repairs.... Keith *Keith R. Martin, P.Eng.* *Burnaby, B.C. CanadaSerenity, M17 #353* On 9 March 2018 at 17:18, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Keith, I would. Especially if you are mooring in fresh water. In that case any extra weight in the boat will sink your bootstripe to its top border and perhaps above that. I guess it would look kind of funky if barrier coat was gray if you did the strake above the bootstripe top. I may do that anyway. My series 27 battery added a lot of weight to the boat. Someone on this site said how they used smaller dry cell batteries and diode lighting to get away from the car battery setup. I may try that. Fair winds, Tom B
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On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 6:47 PM, Keith R. Martin < keith.richard.martin@gmail.com> wrote:
Hey Tom,
Interesting, if I understand you correctly these blisters are forming well above the water line along the boot top???...
I barrier coated the bottom of my M17 in my second season of owning her, but I stopped the barrier coat just at the bottom of the boot top...
I am planing to start painting the boot with anti-fouling as I was getting some growth along the bottom of the boot top, perhaps I will barrier the boot to as well prior to applying the antifouling..
Keith
*Keith R. Martin, P.Eng.*
*Burnaby, B.C. Canada* *Serenity, M17 #353*
On 9 March 2018 at 16:33, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Thanks, Robbin. There are several clusters of them numbering about 900 or so. I am going to use citrus to clean off the old bottom paint and then use a barrier coat, #2000. Above the waterline I think some yellow tinted epoxy then some NuGlass to waterproof it. Fair winds, Tom B.
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On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 6:58 AM, Robbin Roddewig < robbin.roddewig@verizon.net
wrote:
Hi Tom those sure sound like blisters. Fresh water BTW is more aggressive than salt in the osmosis that forms blisters. So if you have not done a barrier coat you might think about it. Why they are above your boot stripe I cannot say. I had blisters on my M-17 in the stern port quarter that seemed to have resulted from the boat being wrapped. Anyway you can go look at the multitude of online information about blisters and repairing. Epoxy is what I used after grinding each out some. I have treated blisters on a compac, two of my M boats. It is not a huge deal but takes a little effort. Best of luck.
Robbin
currently no M boats (but always looking), Marshal 22 & Gig Harbor Lobster Boat
Robbin Roddewig robbin.roddewig@verizon.net
-----Original Message----- From: Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman. xmission.com> Sent: Thu, Mar 8, 2018 10:08 pm Subject: M_Boats: Gelcoat
While pressure washing the old bottom paint off my M17 I managed to dislodge hundreds of pencil eraser sized bits of the yellow gelcoat just above the boot top.All of the spots are round, like bubbles formed under the gelcoat were popped by the water jet. It almost seemed that there was some water migration along that line between the white boottop and the yellow hull. What is the best way to handle all the missing yellow gelcoat? The coat underneath is white and doesn't look like just a resin layer or fiberglas cloth weave. Anybody know what this second coat of material might be composed of? And how best to fill in all those holes? Would just making up some yellow gelcoat and troweling it into the holes work? I am not too worried about cosmetics at this point.I would just wet sand the patches and maybe coat everything with the "Glass" coating I used two years ago which has held up very well. I will be keeping the boat in a fresh water lake this year here in central Texas. Any ideas would be appreciated. Fair winds, Tom B.
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Hi Keith, I have a 13# Rocna too. It is so good I wonder if a 9# would be sufficient. Of course I would keep the13 for emergencies but then, more weight on a 15' waterline. I will use a danforth on the lake or maybe just a drogue since much of Lake Somerville, being a US corps of engineers impoundment, is simply flooded forest with LOTS of snags to eat anchors. At least I won't have to flush out my ob after each use on the lake. Fair winds, Tom B <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon> Virus-free. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=link> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 7:31 PM, Keith R. Martin < keith.richard.martin@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Tom,
I am in salt water here in Vancouver, however Serenity being equipped for coastal exploration certainly carries a little more weight. The 13lb rocna, a group 24 AGM battery, 20 litres of fresh water storage, 6hp merc, inflatable kayak, spare anchor & tools, etc etc, all add up so she sits a touch deeper in the water.... nobody is going to confuse her with a racer ;))
Good luck with your repairs....
Keith
*Keith R. Martin, P.Eng.*
*Burnaby, B.C. CanadaSerenity, M17 #353*
On 9 March 2018 at 17:18, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Keith, I would. Especially if you are mooring in fresh water. In that case any extra weight in the boat will sink your bootstripe to its top border and perhaps above that. I guess it would look kind of funky if barrier coat was gray if you did the strake above the bootstripe top. I may do that anyway. My series 27 battery added a lot of weight to the boat. Someone on this site said how they used smaller dry cell batteries and diode lighting to get away from the car battery setup. I may try that. Fair winds, Tom B
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On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 6:47 PM, Keith R. Martin < keith.richard.martin@gmail.com> wrote:
Hey Tom,
Interesting, if I understand you correctly these blisters are forming well above the water line along the boot top???...
I barrier coated the bottom of my M17 in my second season of owning her, but I stopped the barrier coat just at the bottom of the boot top...
I am planing to start painting the boot with anti-fouling as I was getting some growth along the bottom of the boot top, perhaps I will barrier the boot to as well prior to applying the antifouling..
Keith
*Keith R. Martin, P.Eng.*
*Burnaby, B.C. Canada* *Serenity, M17 #353*
On 9 March 2018 at 16:33, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Thanks, Robbin. There are several clusters of them numbering about 900 or so. I am going to use citrus to clean off the old bottom paint and then use a barrier coat, #2000. Above the waterline I think some yellow tinted epoxy then some NuGlass to waterproof it. Fair winds, Tom B.
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On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 6:58 AM, Robbin Roddewig < robbin.roddewig@verizon.net
wrote:
Hi Tom those sure sound like blisters. Fresh water BTW is more aggressive than salt in the osmosis that forms blisters. So if you have not done a barrier coat you might think about it. Why they are above your boot stripe I cannot say. I had blisters on my M-17 in the stern port quarter that seemed to have resulted from the boat being wrapped. Anyway you can go look at the multitude of online information about blisters and repairing. Epoxy is what I used after grinding each out some. I have treated blisters on a compac, two of my M boats. It is not a huge deal but takes a little effort. Best of luck.
Robbin
currently no M boats (but always looking), Marshal 22 & Gig Harbor Lobster Boat
Robbin Roddewig robbin.roddewig@verizon.net
-----Original Message----- From: Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman. xmission.com> Sent: Thu, Mar 8, 2018 10:08 pm Subject: M_Boats: Gelcoat
While pressure washing the old bottom paint off my M17 I managed to dislodge hundreds of pencil eraser sized bits of the yellow gelcoat just above the boot top.All of the spots are round, like bubbles formed under the gelcoat were popped by the water jet. It almost seemed that there was some water migration along that line between the white boottop and the yellow hull. What is the best way to handle all the missing yellow gelcoat? The coat underneath is white and doesn't look like just a resin layer or fiberglas cloth weave. Anybody know what this second coat of material might be composed of? And how best to fill in all those holes? Would just making up some yellow gelcoat and troweling it into the holes work? I am not too worried about cosmetics at this point.I would just wet sand the patches and maybe coat everything with the "Glass" coating I used two years ago which has held up very well. I will be keeping the boat in a fresh water lake this year here in central Texas. Any ideas would be appreciated. Fair winds, Tom B.
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Hi Tom, Yeah I do not regret going with the Rocna 13# at all.. I am sure the 9# would do in 90% of the situations i find myself in, but I sometimes I like/have to sneak into some tight spaces that are often a little more exposed and somewhat deeper that require a short scope... The 13# combined with 30 ft of chain & 200ft of rope is just the ticket. I hear you about snags, even just the holding power of the 13# relative to the weight of the boat has me usually deploy with a buoyed retrieval line most of the time unless I am really familiar with the spot... My spare anchor is an old 8# Danforth that came with the boat when I bought it... I use it occasionally to anchor my stern line if i am too lazy to hop in the kayak and row ashore... Keith *Keith R. Martin, P.Eng.* *Burnaby, B.C. CanadaDirector, Scout Properties (B.C./Yukon)* *300 - 3665 Kingsway* *Vancouver, BC, V5R 5W2* On 10 March 2018 at 05:22, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Keith, I have a 13# Rocna too. It is so good I wonder if a 9# would be sufficient. Of course I would keep the13 for emergencies but then, more weight on a 15' waterline. I will use a danforth on the lake or maybe just a drogue since much of Lake Somerville, being a US corps of engineers impoundment, is simply flooded forest with LOTS of snags to eat anchors. At least I won't have to flush out my ob after each use on the lake. Fair winds, Tom B
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On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 7:31 PM, Keith R. Martin < keith.richard.martin@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Tom,
I am in salt water here in Vancouver, however Serenity being equipped for coastal exploration certainly carries a little more weight. The 13lb rocna, a group 24 AGM battery, 20 litres of fresh water storage, 6hp merc, inflatable kayak, spare anchor & tools, etc etc, all add up so she sits a touch deeper in the water.... nobody is going to confuse her with a racer ;))
Good luck with your repairs....
Keith
*Keith R. Martin, P.Eng.*
*Burnaby, B.C. CanadaSerenity, M17 #353*
On 9 March 2018 at 17:18, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Keith, I would. Especially if you are mooring in fresh water. In that case any extra weight in the boat will sink your bootstripe to its top border and perhaps above that. I guess it would look kind of funky if barrier coat was gray if you did the strake above the bootstripe top. I may do that anyway. My series 27 battery added a lot of weight to the boat. Someone on this site said how they used smaller dry cell batteries and diode lighting to get away from the car battery setup. I may try that. Fair winds, Tom B
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On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 6:47 PM, Keith R. Martin < keith.richard.martin@gmail.com> wrote:
Hey Tom,
Interesting, if I understand you correctly these blisters are forming well above the water line along the boot top???...
I barrier coated the bottom of my M17 in my second season of owning her, but I stopped the barrier coat just at the bottom of the boot top...
I am planing to start painting the boot with anti-fouling as I was getting some growth along the bottom of the boot top, perhaps I will barrier the boot to as well prior to applying the antifouling..
Keith
*Keith R. Martin, P.Eng.*
*Burnaby, B.C. Canada* *Serenity, M17 #353*
On 9 March 2018 at 16:33, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Thanks, Robbin. There are several clusters of them numbering about 900 or so. I am going to use citrus to clean off the old bottom paint and then use a barrier coat, #2000. Above the waterline I think some yellow tinted epoxy then some NuGlass to waterproof it. Fair winds, Tom B.
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On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 6:58 AM, Robbin Roddewig < robbin.roddewig@verizon.net
wrote:
Hi Tom those sure sound like blisters. Fresh water BTW is more aggressive than salt in the osmosis that forms blisters. So if you have not done a barrier coat you might think about it. Why they are above your boot stripe I cannot say. I had blisters on my M-17 in the stern port quarter that seemed to have resulted from the boat being wrapped. Anyway you can go look at the multitude of online information about blisters and repairing. Epoxy is what I used after grinding each out some. I have treated blisters on a compac, two of my M boats. It is not a huge deal but takes a little effort. Best of luck.
Robbin
currently no M boats (but always looking), Marshal 22 & Gig Harbor Lobster Boat
Robbin Roddewig robbin.roddewig@verizon.net
-----Original Message----- From: Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman. xmission.com> Sent: Thu, Mar 8, 2018 10:08 pm Subject: M_Boats: Gelcoat
While pressure washing the old bottom paint off my M17 I managed to dislodge hundreds of pencil eraser sized bits of the yellow gelcoat just above the boot top.All of the spots are round, like bubbles formed under the gelcoat were popped by the water jet. It almost seemed that there was some water migration along that line between the white boottop and the yellow hull. What is the best way to handle all the missing yellow gelcoat? The coat underneath is white and doesn't look like just a resin layer or fiberglas cloth weave. Anybody know what this second coat of material might be composed of? And how best to fill in all those holes? Would just making up some yellow gelcoat and troweling it into the holes work? I am not too worried about cosmetics at this point.I would just wet sand the patches and maybe coat everything with the "Glass" coating I used two years ago which has held up very well. I will be keeping the boat in a fresh water lake this year here in central Texas. Any ideas would be appreciated. Fair winds, Tom B.
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Hi Keith, I am in the process of gathering materials to take care of the blisters exposed by the pressure wash. The Interprotect 2000 sounds good for the bottom but the gray color not so much above the boot top. Back to the bottom, once I coat it with the 2000 I assume I will have to recoat with bottom paint since the 200 gives a mat finish. No? I am using an Orange citrus remover for the remainder of the bottom paint. It is eco friendly and really seems to do the job well without damaging the remaining gelcoat. The Deepest place in the lake I am on is about 40 feet at the old riverbed before the dam flooded the terrain. Thanks for the reminder about the retrieval line on the anchor. Got away from using one when I was down in Rockport, pre-Hurricane Harvey since the bottom down there was sand or muck. Was a good day for sailing today, 60's, sunny and breezy. Fair winds, Tom <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon> Virus-free. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=link> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Sat, Mar 10, 2018 at 1:06 PM, Keith R. Martin < keith.richard.martin@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Tom,
Yeah I do not regret going with the Rocna 13# at all.. I am sure the 9# would do in 90% of the situations i find myself in, but I sometimes I like/have to sneak into some tight spaces that are often a little more exposed and somewhat deeper that require a short scope... The 13# combined with 30 ft of chain & 200ft of rope is just the ticket.
I hear you about snags, even just the holding power of the 13# relative to the weight of the boat has me usually deploy with a buoyed retrieval line most of the time unless I am really familiar with the spot...
My spare anchor is an old 8# Danforth that came with the boat when I bought it... I use it occasionally to anchor my stern line if i am too lazy to hop in the kayak and row ashore...
Keith
*Keith R. Martin, P.Eng.*
*Burnaby, B.C. CanadaDirector, Scout Properties (B.C./Yukon)* *300 - 3665 Kingsway* *Vancouver, BC, V5R 5W2*
On 10 March 2018 at 05:22, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Keith, I have a 13# Rocna too. It is so good I wonder if a 9# would be sufficient. Of course I would keep the13 for emergencies but then, more weight on a 15' waterline. I will use a danforth on the lake or maybe just a drogue since much of Lake Somerville, being a US corps of engineers impoundment, is simply flooded forest with LOTS of snags to eat anchors. At least I won't have to flush out my ob after each use on the lake. Fair winds, Tom B
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On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 7:31 PM, Keith R. Martin < keith.richard.martin@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Tom,
I am in salt water here in Vancouver, however Serenity being equipped for coastal exploration certainly carries a little more weight. The 13lb rocna, a group 24 AGM battery, 20 litres of fresh water storage, 6hp merc, inflatable kayak, spare anchor & tools, etc etc, all add up so she sits a touch deeper in the water.... nobody is going to confuse her with a racer ;))
Good luck with your repairs....
Keith
*Keith R. Martin, P.Eng.*
*Burnaby, B.C. CanadaSerenity, M17 #353*
On 9 March 2018 at 17:18, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Keith, I would. Especially if you are mooring in fresh water. In that case any extra weight in the boat will sink your bootstripe to its top border and perhaps above that. I guess it would look kind of funky if barrier coat was gray if you did the strake above the bootstripe top. I may do that anyway. My series 27 battery added a lot of weight to the boat. Someone on this site said how they used smaller dry cell batteries and diode lighting to get away from the car battery setup. I may try that. Fair winds, Tom B
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On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 6:47 PM, Keith R. Martin < keith.richard.martin@gmail.com> wrote:
Hey Tom,
Interesting, if I understand you correctly these blisters are forming well above the water line along the boot top???...
I barrier coated the bottom of my M17 in my second season of owning her, but I stopped the barrier coat just at the bottom of the boot top...
I am planing to start painting the boot with anti-fouling as I was getting some growth along the bottom of the boot top, perhaps I will barrier the boot to as well prior to applying the antifouling..
Keith
*Keith R. Martin, P.Eng.*
*Burnaby, B.C. Canada* *Serenity, M17 #353*
On 9 March 2018 at 16:33, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Thanks, Robbin. There are several clusters of them numbering about 900 or so. I am going to use citrus to clean off the old bottom paint and then use a barrier coat, #2000. Above the waterline I think some yellow tinted epoxy then some NuGlass to waterproof it. Fair winds, Tom B.
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On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 6:58 AM, Robbin Roddewig < robbin.roddewig@verizon.net > wrote:
> Hi Tom > those sure sound like blisters. Fresh water BTW is more aggressive than > salt in the osmosis that forms blisters. So if you have not done a barrier > coat you might think about it. Why they are above your boot stripe I > cannot say. I had blisters on my M-17 in the stern port quarter that > seemed to have resulted from the boat being wrapped. > Anyway you can go look at the multitude of online information about > blisters and repairing. Epoxy is what I used after grinding each out some. > I have treated blisters on a compac, two of my M boats. It is not a huge > deal but takes a little effort. > Best of luck. > > Robbin > > currently no M boats (but always looking), Marshal 22 & Gig Harbor > Lobster Boat > > > > Robbin Roddewig > robbin.roddewig@verizon.net > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> > To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman. > xmission.com> > Sent: Thu, Mar 8, 2018 10:08 pm > Subject: M_Boats: Gelcoat > > While pressure washing the old bottom paint off my M17 I managed to > dislodge hundreds of pencil eraser sized bits of the yellow gelcoat just > above the boot top.All of the spots are round, like bubbles formed under > the gelcoat were popped by the water jet. It almost seemed that there was > some water migration along that line between the white boottop and the > yellow hull. > What is the best way to handle all the missing yellow gelcoat? The coat > underneath is white and doesn't look like just a resin layer or fiberglas > cloth weave. Anybody know what this second coat of material might be > composed of? And how best to fill in all those holes? Would just making up > some yellow gelcoat and troweling it into the holes work? I am not too > worried about cosmetics at this point.I would just wet sand the patches and > maybe coat everything with the "Glass" coating I used two years ago which > has held up very well. I will be keeping the boat in a fresh water lake > this year here in central Texas. > Any ideas would be appreciated. > Fair winds, > Tom B. > > <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_ > source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_ term=icon> > Virus-free. > www.avast.com > <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_ > source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_ term=link> > <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > >
Hi Tom, Yeah the Interlux 2000 has a sort of mat finish, but it's reasonably smooth. I assume that give the boat has bottom paint on it right now the reason you would reapply bottom paint is to restore anti-fouling protection depending on your sailing environment yes?? Keith *Keith R. Martin, P.Eng.* *Burnaby, B.C. CanadaDirector, Scout Properties (B.C./Yukon)* *300 - 3665 Kingsway* *Vancouver, BC, V5R 5W2* On 10 March 2018 at 20:10, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Keith, I am in the process of gathering materials to take care of the blisters exposed by the pressure wash. The Interprotect 2000 sounds good for the bottom but the gray color not so much above the boot top. Back to the bottom, once I coat it with the 2000 I assume I will have to recoat with bottom paint since the 200 gives a mat finish. No? I am using an Orange citrus remover for the remainder of the bottom paint. It is eco friendly and really seems to do the job well without damaging the remaining gelcoat. The Deepest place in the lake I am on is about 40 feet at the old riverbed before the dam flooded the terrain. Thanks for the reminder about the retrieval line on the anchor. Got away from using one when I was down in Rockport, pre-Hurricane Harvey since the bottom down there was sand or muck. Was a good day for sailing today, 60's, sunny and breezy. Fair winds, Tom
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On Sat, Mar 10, 2018 at 1:06 PM, Keith R. Martin < keith.richard.martin@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Tom,
Yeah I do not regret going with the Rocna 13# at all.. I am sure the 9# would do in 90% of the situations i find myself in, but I sometimes I like/have to sneak into some tight spaces that are often a little more exposed and somewhat deeper that require a short scope... The 13# combined with 30 ft of chain & 200ft of rope is just the ticket.
I hear you about snags, even just the holding power of the 13# relative to the weight of the boat has me usually deploy with a buoyed retrieval line most of the time unless I am really familiar with the spot...
My spare anchor is an old 8# Danforth that came with the boat when I bought it... I use it occasionally to anchor my stern line if i am too lazy to hop in the kayak and row ashore...
Keith
*Keith R. Martin, P.Eng.*
*Burnaby, B.C. CanadaDirector, Scout Properties (B.C./Yukon)* *300 - 3665 Kingsway* *Vancouver, BC, V5R 5W2*
On 10 March 2018 at 05:22, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Keith, I have a 13# Rocna too. It is so good I wonder if a 9# would be sufficient. Of course I would keep the13 for emergencies but then, more weight on a 15' waterline. I will use a danforth on the lake or maybe just a drogue since much of Lake Somerville, being a US corps of engineers impoundment, is simply flooded forest with LOTS of snags to eat anchors. At least I won't have to flush out my ob after each use on the lake. Fair winds, Tom B
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On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 7:31 PM, Keith R. Martin < keith.richard.martin@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Tom,
I am in salt water here in Vancouver, however Serenity being equipped for coastal exploration certainly carries a little more weight. The 13lb rocna, a group 24 AGM battery, 20 litres of fresh water storage, 6hp merc, inflatable kayak, spare anchor & tools, etc etc, all add up so she sits a touch deeper in the water.... nobody is going to confuse her with a racer ;))
Good luck with your repairs....
Keith
*Keith R. Martin, P.Eng.*
*Burnaby, B.C. CanadaSerenity, M17 #353*
On 9 March 2018 at 17:18, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Keith, I would. Especially if you are mooring in fresh water. In that case any extra weight in the boat will sink your bootstripe to its top border and perhaps above that. I guess it would look kind of funky if barrier coat was gray if you did the strake above the bootstripe top. I may do that anyway. My series 27 battery added a lot of weight to the boat. Someone on this site said how they used smaller dry cell batteries and diode lighting to get away from the car battery setup. I may try that. Fair winds, Tom B
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On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 6:47 PM, Keith R. Martin < keith.richard.martin@gmail.com> wrote:
Hey Tom,
Interesting, if I understand you correctly these blisters are forming well above the water line along the boot top???...
I barrier coated the bottom of my M17 in my second season of owning her, but I stopped the barrier coat just at the bottom of the boot top...
I am planing to start painting the boot with anti-fouling as I was getting some growth along the bottom of the boot top, perhaps I will barrier the boot to as well prior to applying the antifouling..
Keith
*Keith R. Martin, P.Eng.*
*Burnaby, B.C. Canada* *Serenity, M17 #353*
On 9 March 2018 at 16:33, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
> Thanks, Robbin. There are several clusters of them numbering about 900 or > so. I am going to use citrus to clean off the old bottom paint and then use > a barrier coat, #2000. Above the waterline I think some yellow tinted epoxy > then some NuGlass to waterproof it. > Fair winds, > Tom B. > > <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_ > source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_ term=icon> > Virus-free. > www.avast.com > <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_ > source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_ term=link> > <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > > On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 6:58 AM, Robbin Roddewig < > robbin.roddewig@verizon.net > > wrote: > > > Hi Tom > > those sure sound like blisters. Fresh water BTW is more aggressive than > > salt in the osmosis that forms blisters. So if you have not done a > barrier > > coat you might think about it. Why they are above your boot stripe I > > cannot say. I had blisters on my M-17 in the stern port quarter that > > seemed to have resulted from the boat being wrapped. > > Anyway you can go look at the multitude of online information about > > blisters and repairing. Epoxy is what I used after grinding each out > some. > > I have treated blisters on a compac, two of my M boats. It is not a huge > > deal but takes a little effort. > > Best of luck. > > > > Robbin > > > > currently no M boats (but always looking), Marshal 22 & Gig Harbor > > Lobster Boat > > > > > > > > Robbin Roddewig > > robbin.roddewig@verizon.net > > > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> > > To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman. > > xmission.com> > > Sent: Thu, Mar 8, 2018 10:08 pm > > Subject: M_Boats: Gelcoat > > > > While pressure washing the old bottom paint off my M17 I managed to > > dislodge hundreds of pencil eraser sized bits of the yellow gelcoat just > > above the boot top.All of the spots are round, like bubbles formed under > > the gelcoat were popped by the water jet. It almost seemed that there was > > some water migration along that line between the white boottop and the > > yellow hull. > > What is the best way to handle all the missing yellow gelcoat? The coat > > underneath is white and doesn't look like just a resin layer or fiberglas > > cloth weave. Anybody know what this second coat of material might be > > composed of? And how best to fill in all those holes? Would just making > up > > some yellow gelcoat and troweling it into the holes work? I am not too > > worried about cosmetics at this point.I would just wet sand the patches > and > > maybe coat everything with the "Glass" coating I used two years ago which > > has held up very well. I will be keeping the boat in a fresh water lake > > this year here in central Texas. > > Any ideas would be appreciated. > > Fair winds, > > Tom B. > > > > <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_ > > source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_ term=icon> > > Virus-free. > > www.avast.com > > <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_ > > source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_ term=link> > > <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > > > > >
you do want to cover Interlux 2000 as it isn't UV stable (it is epoxy). :: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - https://m17-375.com/ <http://www.m17-375.webs.com> :: Truck camper - https://truckpopupcamper.wordpress.com/ :: Ramblings - https://scoobsramblings.wordpress.com/ :: former M15 owner #288 - http://www.freewebs.com/m15-name-scred On Sun, Mar 11, 2018 at 12:59 PM, Keith R. Martin < keith.richard.martin@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Tom,
Yeah the Interlux 2000 has a sort of mat finish, but it's reasonably smooth. I assume that give the boat has bottom paint on it right now the reason you would reapply bottom paint is to restore anti-fouling protection depending on your sailing environment yes??
Keith
*Keith R. Martin, P.Eng.*
*Burnaby, B.C. CanadaDirector, Scout Properties (B.C./Yukon)* *300 - 3665 Kingsway* *Vancouver, BC, V5R 5W2*
On 10 March 2018 at 20:10, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Keith, I am in the process of gathering materials to take care of the blisters exposed by the pressure wash. The Interprotect 2000 sounds good for the bottom but the gray color not so much above the boot top. Back to the bottom, once I coat it with the 2000 I assume I will have to recoat with bottom paint since the 200 gives a mat finish. No? I am using an Orange citrus remover for the remainder of the bottom paint. It is eco friendly and really seems to do the job well without damaging the remaining gelcoat. The Deepest place in the lake I am on is about 40 feet at the old riverbed before the dam flooded the terrain. Thanks for the reminder about the retrieval line on the anchor. Got away from using one when I was down in Rockport, pre-Hurricane Harvey since the bottom down there was sand or muck. Was a good day for sailing today, 60's, sunny and breezy. Fair winds, Tom
Thanks Dave excellent point. In the cases of using the interlude 2000 to extend a barrier coat to the top of the bootstripe what would you recommend for paint to use to redo the bootstripe with? Keith R. Martin, P.Eng On Sun, Mar 11, 2018, 12:16 PM Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
you do want to cover Interlux 2000 as it isn't UV stable (it is epoxy).
:: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - https://m17-375.com/ <http://www.m17-375.webs.com> :: Truck camper - https://truckpopupcamper.wordpress.com/ :: Ramblings - https://scoobsramblings.wordpress.com/ :: former M15 owner #288 - http://www.freewebs.com/m15-name-scred
On Sun, Mar 11, 2018 at 12:59 PM, Keith R. Martin < keith.richard.martin@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Tom,
Yeah the Interlux 2000 has a sort of mat finish, but it's reasonably smooth. I assume that give the boat has bottom paint on it right now the reason you would reapply bottom paint is to restore anti-fouling protection depending on your sailing environment yes??
Keith
*Keith R. Martin, P.Eng.*
*Burnaby, B.C. CanadaDirector, Scout Properties (B.C./Yukon)* *300 - 3665 Kingsway* *Vancouver, BC, V5R 5W2*
On 10 March 2018 at 20:10, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Keith, I am in the process of gathering materials to take care of the blisters exposed by the pressure wash. The Interprotect 2000 sounds good for the bottom but the gray color not so much above the boot top. Back to the bottom, once I coat it with the 2000 I assume I will have to recoat with bottom paint since the 200 gives a mat finish. No? I am using an Orange citrus remover for the remainder of the bottom paint. It is eco friendly and really seems to do the job well without damaging the remaining gelcoat. The Deepest place in the lake I am on is about 40 feet at the old riverbed before the dam flooded the terrain. Thanks for the reminder about the retrieval line on the anchor. Got away from using one when I was down in Rockport, pre-Hurricane Harvey since the bottom down there was sand or muck. Was a good day for sailing today, 60's, sunny and breezy. Fair winds, Tom
what would you recommend for paint to use to redo the bootstripe with?
cover the bootstripe your antifouling paint ... in the water it looks like a bootstripe. My M17 has a bootstripe and the antifouling starts JUST at the waterline (prior owners did this) and this is a problem as fuzz will grown where water splashes above the waterline. You should always paint at least 1.5"-2" above the waterline. May - October SWEET PEA will be in the water (ie, my extended 2018 cruise) so my task in the next six weeks is to redo her bottom paint (at least 9 years old and some has flaked off) and I'll be covering the bootstripe (after sanding, cleaning, etc so the paint will stick). I'm thinking of 'going green' and using one of the Pettit Hydrocoat paints: both as WA state isn't liking copper and to do a test as I know I'll pull the boat in the mid-fall & can always find a warm-ish bay to scub her a bit if the paint ain't workin'.
So you think that even though the bottom is away from sunshine the reflected light from the sun is still enough to degrade the uncovered 2000?
I wouldn't trust it to survive more than a season in any location that has moderate or better sun. with the cost of these paints I'd do everything in order to make it last a long long time.
is there a primer I have to put on over the 2000 so that hard bottom paint will adhere to it?
all i've read states that 2000 is a great primer that is 100% ready as it is to be covered by antifouling, especially Interlux's paints. read the directions in detail, but i believe all the prep work is to get the bottom ready for the 2000. maybe 'Paintboy Stan' will be reading a comment) :: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - https://m17-375.com/ <http://www.m17-375.webs.com> :: Truck camper - https://truckpopupcamper.wordpress.com/ :: Ramblings - https://scoobsramblings.wordpress.com/ :: former M15 owner #288 - http://www.freewebs.com/m15-name-scred On Sun, Mar 11, 2018 at 1:31 PM, Keith R. Martin < keith.richard.martin@gmail.com> wrote:
Thanks Dave excellent point.
In the cases of using the interlude 2000 to extend a barrier coat to the top of the bootstripe what would you recommend for paint to use to redo the bootstripe with?
Keith R. Martin, P.Eng
On Sun, Mar 11, 2018 at 1:59 PM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Dave, Was hoping you would join in here. So you think that even though the bottom is away from sunshine the reflected light from the sun is still enough to degrade the uncovered 2000? So.. is there a primer I have to put on over the 2000 so that hard bottom paint will adhere to it? I thought I was done with chemistry after my soph year in college decades ago. Thanks for your input. Tom B
On Sun, Mar 11, 2018 at 2:16 PM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
you do want to cover Interlux 2000 as it isn't UV stable (it is epoxy).
:: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - https://m17-375.com/ < http://www.m17-375.webs.com> :: Truck camper - https://truckpopupcamper.wordpress.com/ :: Ramblings - https://scoobsramblings.wordpress.com/ :: former M15 owner #288 - http://www.freewebs.com/m15-name-scred
Ha, good point Dave. I was thinking of covering the strake just above the boottop with bottom paint too since that is the area where the blisters have occurred but thought it might look strange. Why that matters now still puzzles me. Thanks again for your thoughts. Fair winds, Tom B <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon> Virus-free. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=link> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Sun, Mar 11, 2018 at 3:24 PM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
what would you recommend for paint to use to redo the bootstripe with?
cover the bootstripe your antifouling paint ... in the water it looks like a bootstripe. My M17 has a bootstripe and the antifouling starts JUST at the waterline (prior owners did this) and this is a problem as fuzz will grown where water splashes above the waterline. You should always paint at least 1.5"-2" above the waterline. May - October SWEET PEA will be in the water (ie, my extended 2018 cruise) so my task in the next six weeks is to redo her bottom paint (at least 9 years old and some has flaked off) and I'll be covering the bootstripe (after sanding, cleaning, etc so the paint will stick). I'm thinking of 'going green' and using one of the Pettit Hydrocoat paints: both as WA state isn't liking copper and to do a test as I know I'll pull the boat in the mid-fall & can always find a warm-ish bay to scub her a bit if the paint ain't workin'.
So you think that even though the bottom is away from sunshine the reflected light from the sun is still enough to degrade the uncovered 2000?
I wouldn't trust it to survive more than a season in any location that has moderate or better sun. with the cost of these paints I'd do everything in order to make it last a long long time.
is there a primer I have to put on over the 2000 so that hard bottom paint will adhere to it?
all i've read states that 2000 is a great primer that is 100% ready as it is to be covered by antifouling, especially Interlux's paints. read the directions in detail, but i believe all the prep work is to get the bottom ready for the 2000. maybe 'Paintboy Stan' will be reading a comment)
:: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - https://m17-375.com/ <http://www.m17-375.webs.com> :: Truck camper - https://truckpopupcamper.wordpress.com/ :: Ramblings - https://scoobsramblings.wordpress.com/ :: former M15 owner #288 - http://www.freewebs.com/m15-name-scred
On Sun, Mar 11, 2018 at 1:31 PM, Keith R. Martin < keith.richard.martin@gmail.com> wrote:
Thanks Dave excellent point.
In the cases of using the interlude 2000 to extend a barrier coat to the top of the bootstripe what would you recommend for paint to use to redo the bootstripe with?
Keith R. Martin, P.Eng
On Sun, Mar 11, 2018 at 1:59 PM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Dave, Was hoping you would join in here. So you think that even though the bottom is away from sunshine the reflected light from the sun is still enough to degrade the uncovered 2000? So.. is there a primer I have to put on over the 2000 so that hard bottom paint will adhere to it? I thought I was done with chemistry after my soph year in college decades ago. Thanks for your input. Tom B
On Sun, Mar 11, 2018 at 2:16 PM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
you do want to cover Interlux 2000 as it isn't UV stable (it is epoxy).
:: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - https://m17-375.com/ < http://www.m17-375.webs.com> :: Truck camper - https://truckpopupcamper.wordpress.com/ :: Ramblings - https://scoobsramblings.wordpress.com/ :: former M15 owner #288 - http://www.freewebs.com/m15-name-scred
Oh yes, how many coats of 2000 make up 10 mils of thickness? <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon> Virus-free. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=link> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Sun, Mar 11, 2018 at 3:24 PM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
what would you recommend for paint to use to redo the bootstripe with?
cover the bootstripe your antifouling paint ... in the water it looks like a bootstripe. My M17 has a bootstripe and the antifouling starts JUST at the waterline (prior owners did this) and this is a problem as fuzz will grown where water splashes above the waterline. You should always paint at least 1.5"-2" above the waterline. May - October SWEET PEA will be in the water (ie, my extended 2018 cruise) so my task in the next six weeks is to redo her bottom paint (at least 9 years old and some has flaked off) and I'll be covering the bootstripe (after sanding, cleaning, etc so the paint will stick). I'm thinking of 'going green' and using one of the Pettit Hydrocoat paints: both as WA state isn't liking copper and to do a test as I know I'll pull the boat in the mid-fall & can always find a warm-ish bay to scub her a bit if the paint ain't workin'.
So you think that even though the bottom is away from sunshine the reflected light from the sun is still enough to degrade the uncovered 2000?
I wouldn't trust it to survive more than a season in any location that has moderate or better sun. with the cost of these paints I'd do everything in order to make it last a long long time.
is there a primer I have to put on over the 2000 so that hard bottom paint will adhere to it?
all i've read states that 2000 is a great primer that is 100% ready as it is to be covered by antifouling, especially Interlux's paints. read the directions in detail, but i believe all the prep work is to get the bottom ready for the 2000. maybe 'Paintboy Stan' will be reading a comment)
:: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - https://m17-375.com/ <http://www.m17-375.webs.com> :: Truck camper - https://truckpopupcamper.wordpress.com/ :: Ramblings - https://scoobsramblings.wordpress.com/ :: former M15 owner #288 - http://www.freewebs.com/m15-name-scred
On Sun, Mar 11, 2018 at 1:31 PM, Keith R. Martin < keith.richard.martin@gmail.com> wrote:
Thanks Dave excellent point.
In the cases of using the interlude 2000 to extend a barrier coat to the top of the bootstripe what would you recommend for paint to use to redo the bootstripe with?
Keith R. Martin, P.Eng
On Sun, Mar 11, 2018 at 1:59 PM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Dave, Was hoping you would join in here. So you think that even though the bottom is away from sunshine the reflected light from the sun is still enough to degrade the uncovered 2000? So.. is there a primer I have to put on over the 2000 so that hard bottom paint will adhere to it? I thought I was done with chemistry after my soph year in college decades ago. Thanks for your input. Tom B
On Sun, Mar 11, 2018 at 2:16 PM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
you do want to cover Interlux 2000 as it isn't UV stable (it is epoxy).
:: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - https://m17-375.com/ < http://www.m17-375.webs.com> :: Truck camper - https://truckpopupcamper.wordpress.com/ :: Ramblings - https://scoobsramblings.wordpress.com/ :: former M15 owner #288 - http://www.freewebs.com/m15-name-scred
the documents list 4-5 coats to make 10mils ... i'd go by Interlux's recomendation of 'coats' or you can buy a mils gauge. here is one on Amazon - * Bon 82-479 Wet Film Gauge 1-80 Mil Scale, https://www.amazon.com/82-479-Film-Gauge-1-80-Scale/dp/B01BM7MU02/ref=sr_1_2... :: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - https://m17-375.com/ <http://www.m17-375.webs.com> :: Truck camper - https://truckpopupcamper.wordpress.com/ :: Ramblings - https://scoobsramblings.wordpress.com/ :: former M15 owner #288 - http://www.freewebs.com/m15-name-scred On Sun, Mar 11, 2018 at 2:31 PM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote: Oh yes, how many coats of 2000 make up 10 mils of thickness?
Hi Dave, Yes thanks for the suggestion, I had been toying with the idea of painting the over boot-stripe using a coloured anti fouling for the very issue you describe. Given Tom's recent experience I will probably take the opportunity to extend my barrier coat to the top of the boot-stripe as well.. These boats are getting older every year and I just cherish mine so an oz of prevention is worth it in my view.. The challenge will be to find a harder hybrid ablative with better wear and tear that I can get up here in Canada as many of the really good ones are not approved for use... I use the Micron CSC below the water line and it works really well, but it think it's to darn soft to the on the boot-stripe Given your plans to spend some time up here sailing this summer if you are game we should try and connect on the water. Keith *Keith R. Martin, P.Eng.* *Burnaby, B.C. Canada* *Serenity, M17 #353* On 11 March 2018 at 13:24, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
what would you recommend for paint to use to redo the bootstripe with?
cover the bootstripe your antifouling paint ... in the water it looks like a bootstripe. My M17 has a bootstripe and the antifouling starts JUST at the waterline (prior owners did this) and this is a problem as fuzz will grown where water splashes above the waterline. You should always paint at least 1.5"-2" above the waterline. May - October SWEET PEA will be in the water (ie, my extended 2018 cruise) so my task in the next six weeks is to redo her bottom paint (at least 9 years old and some has flaked off) and I'll be covering the bootstripe (after sanding, cleaning, etc so the paint will stick). I'm thinking of 'going green' and using one of the Pettit Hydrocoat paints: both as WA state isn't liking copper and to do a test as I know I'll pull the boat in the mid-fall & can always find a warm-ish bay to scub her a bit if the paint ain't workin'.
So you think that even though the bottom is away from sunshine the reflected light from the sun is still enough to degrade the uncovered 2000?
I wouldn't trust it to survive more than a season in any location that has moderate or better sun. with the cost of these paints I'd do everything in order to make it last a long long time.
is there a primer I have to put on over the 2000 so that hard bottom paint will adhere to it?
all i've read states that 2000 is a great primer that is 100% ready as it is to be covered by antifouling, especially Interlux's paints. read the directions in detail, but i believe all the prep work is to get the bottom ready for the 2000. maybe 'Paintboy Stan' will be reading a comment)
:: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - https://m17-375.com/ <http://www.m17-375.webs.com> :: Truck camper - https://truckpopupcamper.wordpress.com/ :: Ramblings - https://scoobsramblings.wordpress.com/ :: former M15 owner #288 - http://www.freewebs.com/m15-name-scred
On Sun, Mar 11, 2018 at 1:31 PM, Keith R. Martin < keith.richard.martin@gmail.com> wrote:
Thanks Dave excellent point.
In the cases of using the interlude 2000 to extend a barrier coat to the top of the bootstripe what would you recommend for paint to use to redo the bootstripe with?
Keith R. Martin, P.Eng
On Sun, Mar 11, 2018 at 1:59 PM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Dave, Was hoping you would join in here. So you think that even though the bottom is away from sunshine the reflected light from the sun is still enough to degrade the uncovered 2000? So.. is there a primer I have to put on over the 2000 so that hard bottom paint will adhere to it? I thought I was done with chemistry after my soph year in college decades ago. Thanks for your input. Tom B
On Sun, Mar 11, 2018 at 2:16 PM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
you do want to cover Interlux 2000 as it isn't UV stable (it is epoxy).
:: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - https://m17-375.com/ < http://www.m17-375.webs.com> :: Truck camper - https://truckpopupcamper.wordpress.com/ :: Ramblings - https://scoobsramblings.wordpress.com/ :: former M15 owner #288 - http://www.freewebs.com/m15-name-scred
Hi Dave, Was hoping you would join in here. So you think that even though the bottom is away from sunshine the reflected light from the sun is still enough to degrade the uncovered 2000? So.. is there a primer I have to put on over the 2000 so that hard bottom paint will adhere to it? I thought I was done with chemistry after my soph year in college decades ago. Thanks for your input. Tom B <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon> Virus-free. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=link> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Sun, Mar 11, 2018 at 2:16 PM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
you do want to cover Interlux 2000 as it isn't UV stable (it is epoxy).
:: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - https://m17-375.com/ <http://www.m17-375.webs.com> :: Truck camper - https://truckpopupcamper.wordpress.com/ :: Ramblings - https://scoobsramblings.wordpress.com/ :: former M15 owner #288 - http://www.freewebs.com/m15-name-scred
On Sun, Mar 11, 2018 at 12:59 PM, Keith R. Martin < keith.richard.martin@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Tom,
Yeah the Interlux 2000 has a sort of mat finish, but it's reasonably smooth. I assume that give the boat has bottom paint on it right now the reason you would reapply bottom paint is to restore anti-fouling protection depending on your sailing environment yes??
Keith
*Keith R. Martin, P.Eng.*
*Burnaby, B.C. CanadaDirector, Scout Properties (B.C./Yukon)* *300 - 3665 Kingsway* *Vancouver, BC, V5R 5W2*
On 10 March 2018 at 20:10, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Keith, I am in the process of gathering materials to take care of the blisters exposed by the pressure wash. The Interprotect 2000 sounds good for the bottom but the gray color not so much above the boot top. Back to the bottom, once I coat it with the 2000 I assume I will have to recoat with bottom paint since the 200 gives a mat finish. No? I am using an Orange citrus remover for the remainder of the bottom paint. It is eco friendly and really seems to do the job well without damaging the remaining gelcoat. The Deepest place in the lake I am on is about 40 feet at the old riverbed before the dam flooded the terrain. Thanks for the reminder about the retrieval line on the anchor. Got away from using one when I was down in Rockport, pre-Hurricane Harvey since the bottom down there was sand or muck. Was a good day for sailing today, 60's, sunny and breezy. Fair winds, Tom
Hi Keith, I have been trying to find out about bottom paint, ablative and hard, regulations since Lake Somerville is a watersource for some of the surrounding towns here but haven't been able to find my way through all the government blind allies. The only reason I could see to recoat the 2000 with bottom paint (hard) is to provide a shinier (faster?) surface. Otherwise the only growth on the other boats on the lake is a bit of slime which grows on everything used for antifouling. Warm weather, Tom <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon> Virus-free. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=link> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Sun, Mar 11, 2018 at 1:59 PM, Keith R. Martin < keith.richard.martin@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Tom,
Yeah the Interlux 2000 has a sort of mat finish, but it's reasonably smooth. I assume that give the boat has bottom paint on it right now the reason you would reapply bottom paint is to restore anti-fouling protection depending on your sailing environment yes??
Keith
*Keith R. Martin, P.Eng.*
*Burnaby, B.C. CanadaDirector, Scout Properties (B.C./Yukon)* *300 - 3665 Kingsway* *Vancouver, BC, V5R 5W2*
On 10 March 2018 at 20:10, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Keith, I am in the process of gathering materials to take care of the blisters exposed by the pressure wash. The Interprotect 2000 sounds good for the bottom but the gray color not so much above the boot top. Back to the bottom, once I coat it with the 2000 I assume I will have to recoat with bottom paint since the 200 gives a mat finish. No? I am using an Orange citrus remover for the remainder of the bottom paint. It is eco friendly and really seems to do the job well without damaging the remaining gelcoat. The Deepest place in the lake I am on is about 40 feet at the old riverbed before the dam flooded the terrain. Thanks for the reminder about the retrieval line on the anchor. Got away from using one when I was down in Rockport, pre-Hurricane Harvey since the bottom down there was sand or muck. Was a good day for sailing today, 60's, sunny and breezy. Fair winds, Tom
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On Sat, Mar 10, 2018 at 1:06 PM, Keith R. Martin < keith.richard.martin@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Tom,
Yeah I do not regret going with the Rocna 13# at all.. I am sure the 9# would do in 90% of the situations i find myself in, but I sometimes I like/have to sneak into some tight spaces that are often a little more exposed and somewhat deeper that require a short scope... The 13# combined with 30 ft of chain & 200ft of rope is just the ticket.
I hear you about snags, even just the holding power of the 13# relative to the weight of the boat has me usually deploy with a buoyed retrieval line most of the time unless I am really familiar with the spot...
My spare anchor is an old 8# Danforth that came with the boat when I bought it... I use it occasionally to anchor my stern line if i am too lazy to hop in the kayak and row ashore...
Keith
*Keith R. Martin, P.Eng.*
*Burnaby, B.C. CanadaDirector, Scout Properties (B.C./Yukon)* *300 - 3665 Kingsway* *Vancouver, BC, V5R 5W2*
On 10 March 2018 at 05:22, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Keith, I have a 13# Rocna too. It is so good I wonder if a 9# would be sufficient. Of course I would keep the13 for emergencies but then, more weight on a 15' waterline. I will use a danforth on the lake or maybe just a drogue since much of Lake Somerville, being a US corps of engineers impoundment, is simply flooded forest with LOTS of snags to eat anchors. At least I won't have to flush out my ob after each use on the lake. Fair winds, Tom B
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On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 7:31 PM, Keith R. Martin < keith.richard.martin@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Tom,
I am in salt water here in Vancouver, however Serenity being equipped for coastal exploration certainly carries a little more weight. The 13lb rocna, a group 24 AGM battery, 20 litres of fresh water storage, 6hp merc, inflatable kayak, spare anchor & tools, etc etc, all add up so she sits a touch deeper in the water.... nobody is going to confuse her with a racer ;))
Good luck with your repairs....
Keith
*Keith R. Martin, P.Eng.*
*Burnaby, B.C. CanadaSerenity, M17 #353*
On 9 March 2018 at 17:18, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Keith, I would. Especially if you are mooring in fresh water. In that case any extra weight in the boat will sink your bootstripe to its top border and perhaps above that. I guess it would look kind of funky if barrier coat was gray if you did the strake above the bootstripe top. I may do that anyway. My series 27 battery added a lot of weight to the boat. Someone on this site said how they used smaller dry cell batteries and diode lighting to get away from the car battery setup. I may try that. Fair winds, Tom B
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On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 6:47 PM, Keith R. Martin < keith.richard.martin@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hey Tom, > > Interesting, if I understand you correctly these blisters are forming well > above the water line along the boot top???... > > I barrier coated the bottom of my M17 in my second season of owning her, > but I stopped the barrier coat just at the bottom of the boot top... > > I am planing to start painting the boot with anti-fouling as I was getting > some growth along the bottom of the boot top, perhaps I will barrier the > boot to as well prior to applying the antifouling.. > > Keith > > *Keith R. Martin, P.Eng.* > > *Burnaby, B.C. Canada* > *Serenity, M17 #353* > > > On 9 March 2018 at 16:33, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com
wrote:
> > > Thanks, Robbin. There are several clusters of them numbering about 900 or > > so. I am going to use citrus to clean off the old bottom paint and then > use > > a barrier coat, #2000. Above the waterline I think some yellow tinted > epoxy > > then some NuGlass to waterproof it. > > Fair winds, > > Tom B. > > > > <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_ > > source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_ term=icon> > > Virus-free. > > www.avast.com > > <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_ > > source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_ term=link> > > <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > > > > On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 6:58 AM, Robbin Roddewig < > > robbin.roddewig@verizon.net > > > wrote: > > > > > Hi Tom > > > those sure sound like blisters. Fresh water BTW is more aggressive > than > > > salt in the osmosis that forms blisters. So if you have not done a > > barrier > > > coat you might think about it. Why they are above your boot stripe I > > > cannot say. I had blisters on my M-17 in the stern port quarter that > > > seemed to have resulted from the boat being wrapped. > > > Anyway you can go look at the multitude of online information about > > > blisters and repairing. Epoxy is what I used after grinding each out > > some. > > > I have treated blisters on a compac, two of my M boats. It is not a > huge > > > deal but takes a little effort. > > > Best of luck. > > > > > > Robbin > > > > > > currently no M boats (but always looking), Marshal 22 & Gig Harbor > > > Lobster Boat > > > > > > > > > > > > Robbin Roddewig > > > robbin.roddewig@verizon.net > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> > > > To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman. > > > xmission.com> > > > Sent: Thu, Mar 8, 2018 10:08 pm > > > Subject: M_Boats: Gelcoat > > > > > > While pressure washing the old bottom paint off my M17 I managed to > > > dislodge hundreds of pencil eraser sized bits of the yellow gelcoat > just > > > above the boot top.All of the spots are round, like bubbles formed > under > > > the gelcoat were popped by the water jet. It almost seemed that there > was > > > some water migration along that line between the white boottop and the > > > yellow hull. > > > What is the best way to handle all the missing yellow gelcoat? The coat > > > underneath is white and doesn't look like just a resin layer or > fiberglas > > > cloth weave. Anybody know what this second coat of material might be > > > composed of? And how best to fill in all those holes? Would just making > > up > > > some yellow gelcoat and troweling it into the holes work? I am not too > > > worried about cosmetics at this point.I would just wet sand the patches > > and > > > maybe coat everything with the "Glass" coating I used two years ago > which > > > has held up very well. I will be keeping the boat in a fresh water lake > > > this year here in central Texas. > > > Any ideas would be appreciated. > > > Fair winds, > > > Tom B. > > > > > > <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_ > > > source=link&utm_campaign=sig- email&utm_content=webmail&utm_ term=icon> > > > Virus-free. > > > www.avast.com > > > <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_ > > > source=link&utm_campaign=sig- email&utm_content=webmail&utm_ term=link> > > > <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > > > > > > > > >
participants (5)
-
Dave Scobie -
John Schinnerer -
Keith R. Martin -
Robbin Roddewig -
Thomas Buzzi