Any suggestions for M15? Size? Brand? Thanks Capt Jim SV Pelican Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>
Install it on the wood lower companion way drop board. I used to make extra boards just so you could lock the compass inside. On the bulkhead would ruin the back rest. Bob Sent from my iPad
On Jan 25, 2021, at 8:48 PM, Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Any suggestions for M15? Size? Brand?
Thanks Capt Jim SV Pelican
Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>
I've bought a 15 that has two Silva type 70 UN universals as shown. I think the previous owner might have raced as he had one on either side in the fwd cabin, one for either tack seating position? - visible only with more youthful eyesight than my own. I like the other response of mounting visible cockpit centre fwd, out of the way but from most of the cockpit. I will Mount the second next to my bunk so I can see the boats orientation change when at anchor . Roger Langmaid Sent from my BlackBerry - the most secure mobile device - via the Rogers Network Original Message From: montgomeryboats@hotmail.com Sent: January 25, 2021 9:32 PM To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Reply-to: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bulkhead compass Install it on the wood lower companion way drop board. I used to make extra boards just so you could lock the compass inside. On the bulkhead would ruin the back rest. Bob Sent from my iPad
On Jan 25, 2021, at 8:48 PM, Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Any suggestions for M15? Size? Brand?
Thanks Capt Jim SV Pelican
Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>
Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef> ________________________________ From: montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com> on behalf of Bob Eeg <montgomeryboats@hotmail.com> Sent: Monday, January 25, 2021 9:31:24 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bulkhead compass Install it on the wood lower companion way drop board. I used to make extra boards just so you could lock the compass inside. On the bulkhead would ruin the back rest. Bob Sent from my iPad
On Jan 25, 2021, at 8:48 PM, Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Any suggestions for M15? Size? Brand?
Thanks Capt Jim SV Pelican
Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>
Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef> ________________________________ From: montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com> on behalf of Bob Eeg <montgomeryboats@hotmail.com> Sent: Monday, January 25, 2021 9:31:24 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bulkhead compass Install it on the wood lower companion way drop board. I used to make extra boards just so you could lock the compass inside. On the bulkhead would ruin the back rest. Bob Sent from my iPad
On Jan 25, 2021, at 8:48 PM, Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Any suggestions for M15? Size? Brand?
Thanks Capt Jim SV Pelican
Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>
Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef> ________________________________ From: montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com> on behalf of Bob Eeg <montgomeryboats@hotmail.com> Sent: Monday, January 25, 2021 9:31:24 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bulkhead compass Install it on the wood lower companion way drop board. I used to make extra boards just so you could lock the compass inside. On the bulkhead would ruin the back rest. Bob Sent from my iPad
On Jan 25, 2021, at 8:48 PM, Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Any suggestions for M15? Size? Brand?
Thanks Capt Jim SV Pelican
Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>
ON my MOnty I installed a Garmin chart plotter. It generates compass direction plus a whole lot more. It is fun to use. I have a smaller compass inside as backup but the modern day plotters are really well built. The instrument's information surface protrudes from the bulkhead about 1/4". I can easily steer and consult the chart plotter. They do cost more than a compass but can even be mounted inside the hull without having to drill a hole. If you do need a compass that Bob's idea works well. Just be sure that you have barrel bolts inside to lock it in place. Fair winds. On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 11:32 PM Bob Eeg <montgomeryboats@hotmail.com> wrote:
Install it on the wood lower companion way drop board. I used to make extra boards just so you could lock the compass inside. On the bulkhead would ruin the back rest. Bob
Sent from my iPad
On Jan 25, 2021, at 8:48 PM, Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Any suggestions for M15? Size? Brand?
Thanks Capt Jim SV Pelican
Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>
Thanks Bob Do you know where I can get new drop boards? Capt. Jim -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com> On Behalf Of Bob Eeg Sent: Monday, January 25, 2021 9:31 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bulkhead compass Install it on the wood lower companion way drop board. I used to make extra boards just so you could lock the compass inside. On the bulkhead would ruin the back rest. Bob Sent from my iPad
On Jan 25, 2021, at 8:48 PM, Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Any suggestions for M15? Size? Brand?
Thanks Capt Jim SV Pelican
Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>
I'm also in need ofnew drop boards. On Tue, Jan 26, 2021, 8:35 AM Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Thanks Bob
Do you know where I can get new drop boards?
Capt. Jim
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com> On Behalf Of Bob Eeg Sent: Monday, January 25, 2021 9:31 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bulkhead compass
Install it on the wood lower companion way drop board. I used to make extra boards just so you could lock the compass inside. On the bulkhead would ruin the back rest. Bob
Sent from my iPad
On Jan 25, 2021, at 8:48 PM, Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Any suggestions for M15? Size? Brand?
Thanks Capt Jim SV Pelican
Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>
For those needing companionway drop in boards - John Owens of JOWoodworks used to make replacement wood parts for the MBoats. He has sold his patterns to Bobby. Here is Bobby's www-site - https://www.bobbysboatworks.com/ :: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new site! On Tue, Jan 26, 2021, 8:42 AM Paul Baker <avalonjazz@gmail.com> wrote: I'm also in need ofnew drop boards.
On Tue, Jan 26, 2021, 8:35 AM Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Do you know where I can get new drop boards?
Capt. Jim
I used a deckmounted compass on the center of the sliding hatch. It was on the centerline and had a good line of sight from either side ( it 45 degree offset luber lines) https://www.ebay.com/itm/PLASTIMO-FLUSH-MOUNT-OFFSHORE-75-BLACK-MARINE-BOAT-... On Tue, Jan 26, 2021 at 9:42 AM Paul Baker <avalonjazz@gmail.com> wrote:
I'm also in need ofnew drop boards.
On Tue, Jan 26, 2021, 8:35 AM Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Thanks Bob
Do you know where I can get new drop boards?
Capt. Jim
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com> On Behalf Of Bob Eeg Sent: Monday, January 25, 2021 9:31 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bulkhead compass
Install it on the wood lower companion way drop board. I used to make extra boards just so you could lock the compass inside. On the bulkhead would ruin the back rest. Bob
Sent from my iPad
On Jan 25, 2021, at 8:48 PM, Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Any suggestions for M15? Size? Brand?
Thanks Capt Jim SV Pelican
Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>
Have any of you skippers fitted composite aluminum panel or solid aluminum hatch “boards” ......powder coated of course? Capt Jim Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef> ________________________________ From: Jim Sadler Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2021 8:34:30 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: RE: M_Boats: Bulkhead compass Thanks Bob Do you know where I can get new drop boards? Capt. Jim -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com> On Behalf Of Bob Eeg Sent: Monday, January 25, 2021 9:31 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bulkhead compass Install it on the wood lower companion way drop board. I used to make extra boards just so you could lock the compass inside. On the bulkhead would ruin the back rest. Bob Sent from my iPad
On Jan 25, 2021, at 8:48 PM, Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Any suggestions for M15? Size? Brand?
Thanks Capt Jim SV Pelican
Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>
Jim, Most people make new boards when needed. I do know of one member who fashioned an special lower hatch board which he used for attaching various accessories while sailing. He would remove it whenever he wasn't sailing and used the standard board. Skip M-15 82' 210M-5.8 77' 028 -----Original Message----- From: Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Wed, Jan 27, 2021 8:30 am Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bulkhead compass Have any of you skippers fitted composite aluminum panel or solid aluminum hatch “boards” ......powder coated of course? Capt Jim Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef> ________________________________ From: Jim Sadler Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2021 8:34:30 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: RE: M_Boats: Bulkhead compass Thanks Bob Do you know where I can get new drop boards? Capt. Jim -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com> On Behalf Of Bob Eeg Sent: Monday, January 25, 2021 9:31 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bulkhead compass Install it on the wood lower companion way drop board. I used to make extra boards just so you could lock the compass inside. On the bulkhead would ruin the back rest. Bob Sent from my iPad
On Jan 25, 2021, at 8:48 PM, Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Any suggestions for M15? Size? Brand?
Thanks Capt Jim SV Pelican
Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>
I have a big favor to ask. Can someone tell me the thickness of the original boards. Was it 3/8"? Thanks, Paul Baker On Wed, Jan 27, 2021, 5:45 AM Skip Campion via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Jim, Most people make new boards when needed. I do know of one member who fashioned an special lower hatch board which he used for attaching various accessories while sailing. He would remove it whenever he wasn't sailing and used the standard board. Skip M-15 82' 210M-5.8 77' 028
-----Original Message----- From: Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Wed, Jan 27, 2021 8:30 am Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bulkhead compass
Have any of you skippers fitted composite aluminum panel or solid aluminum hatch “boards” ......powder coated of course? Capt Jim
Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef> ________________________________ From: Jim Sadler Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2021 8:34:30 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: RE: M_Boats: Bulkhead compass
Thanks Bob
Do you know where I can get new drop boards?
Capt. Jim
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com> On Behalf Of Bob Eeg Sent: Monday, January 25, 2021 9:31 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bulkhead compass
Install it on the wood lower companion way drop board. I used to make extra boards just so you could lock the compass inside. On the bulkhead would ruin the back rest. Bob
Sent from my iPad
On Jan 25, 2021, at 8:48 PM, Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Any suggestions for M15? Size? Brand?
Thanks Capt Jim SV Pelican
Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>
Or was it 1/4"? On Wed, Jan 27, 2021, 7:19 AM Paul Baker <avalonjazz@gmail.com> wrote:
I have a big favor to ask. Can someone tell me the thickness of the original boards. Was it 3/8"? Thanks, Paul Baker
On Wed, Jan 27, 2021, 5:45 AM Skip Campion via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Jim, Most people make new boards when needed. I do know of one member who fashioned an special lower hatch board which he used for attaching various accessories while sailing. He would remove it whenever he wasn't sailing and used the standard board. Skip M-15 82' 210M-5.8 77' 028
-----Original Message----- From: Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Wed, Jan 27, 2021 8:30 am Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bulkhead compass
Have any of you skippers fitted composite aluminum panel or solid aluminum hatch “boards” ......powder coated of course? Capt Jim
Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef> ________________________________ From: Jim Sadler Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2021 8:34:30 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: RE: M_Boats: Bulkhead compass
Thanks Bob
Do you know where I can get new drop boards?
Capt. Jim
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com> On Behalf Of Bob Eeg Sent: Monday, January 25, 2021 9:31 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bulkhead compass
Install it on the wood lower companion way drop board. I used to make extra boards just so you could lock the compass inside. On the bulkhead would ruin the back rest. Bob
Sent from my iPad
On Jan 25, 2021, at 8:48 PM, Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Any suggestions for M15? Size? Brand?
Thanks Capt Jim SV Pelican
Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>
Paul. Hope all is well Paul. A few of the early boats were 3/8 s but later 1/2 inch teak ply. Bob Eeg Sent from my iPad
On Jan 27, 2021, at 7:20 AM, Paul Baker <avalonjazz@gmail.com> wrote:
I have a big favor to ask. Can someone tell me the thickness of the original boards. Was it 3/8"? Thanks, Paul Baker
On Wed, Jan 27, 2021, 5:45 AM Skip Campion via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Jim, Most people make new boards when needed. I do know of one member who fashioned an special lower hatch board which he used for attaching various accessories while sailing. He would remove it whenever he wasn't sailing and used the standard board. Skip M-15 82' 210M-5.8 77' 028
-----Original Message----- From: Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Wed, Jan 27, 2021 8:30 am Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bulkhead compass
Have any of you skippers fitted composite aluminum panel or solid aluminum hatch “boards” ......powder coated of course? Capt Jim
Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef> ________________________________ From: Jim Sadler Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2021 8:34:30 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: RE: M_Boats: Bulkhead compass
Thanks Bob
Do you know where I can get new drop boards?
Capt. Jim
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com> On Behalf Of Bob Eeg Sent: Monday, January 25, 2021 9:31 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bulkhead compass
Install it on the wood lower companion way drop board. I used to make extra boards just so you could lock the compass inside. On the bulkhead would ruin the back rest. Bob
Sent from my iPad
On Jan 25, 2021, at 8:48 PM, Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Any suggestions for M15? Size? Brand?
Thanks Capt Jim SV Pelican
Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>
Thanks Bob. I am going to make my own. On Wed, Jan 27, 2021, 9:00 AM Bob Eeg <montgomeryboats@hotmail.com> wrote:
Paul. Hope all is well Paul. A few of the early boats were 3/8 s but later 1/2 inch teak ply.
Bob Eeg
Sent from my iPad
On Jan 27, 2021, at 7:20 AM, Paul Baker <avalonjazz@gmail.com> wrote:
I have a big favor to ask. Can someone tell me the thickness of the original boards. Was it 3/8"? Thanks, Paul Baker
On Wed, Jan 27, 2021, 5:45 AM Skip Campion via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Jim, Most people make new boards when needed. I do know of one member who fashioned an special lower hatch board which he used for attaching various accessories while sailing. He would remove it whenever he wasn't sailing and used the standard board. Skip M-15 82' 210M-5.8 77' 028
-----Original Message----- From: Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Wed, Jan 27, 2021 8:30 am Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bulkhead compass
Have any of you skippers fitted composite aluminum panel or solid aluminum hatch “boards” ......powder coated of course? Capt Jim
Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef> ________________________________ From: Jim Sadler Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2021 8:34:30 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: RE: M_Boats: Bulkhead compass
Thanks Bob
Do you know where I can get new drop boards?
Capt. Jim
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com> On Behalf Of Bob Eeg Sent: Monday, January 25, 2021 9:31 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bulkhead compass
Install it on the wood lower companion way drop board. I used to make extra boards just so you could lock the compass inside. On the bulkhead would ruin the back rest. Bob
Sent from my iPad
On Jan 25, 2021, at 8:48 PM, Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Any suggestions for M15? Size? Brand?
Thanks Capt Jim SV Pelican
Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>
Thanks skipper Where can you find the teak plywood? Capt Jim -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com> On Behalf Of Skip Campion via montgomery_boats Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2021 5:45 AM To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bulkhead compass Jim, Most people make new boards when needed. I do know of one member who fashioned an special lower hatch board which he used for attaching various accessories while sailing. He would remove it whenever he wasn't sailing and used the standard board. Skip M-15 82' 210M-5.8 77' 028 -----Original Message----- From: Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Wed, Jan 27, 2021 8:30 am Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bulkhead compass Have any of you skippers fitted composite aluminum panel or solid aluminum hatch “boards” ......powder coated of course? Capt Jim Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef> ________________________________ From: Jim Sadler Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2021 8:34:30 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: RE: M_Boats: Bulkhead compass Thanks Bob Do you know where I can get new drop boards? Capt. Jim -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com> On Behalf Of Bob Eeg Sent: Monday, January 25, 2021 9:31 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bulkhead compass Install it on the wood lower companion way drop board. I used to make extra boards just so you could lock the compass inside. On the bulkhead would ruin the back rest. Bob Sent from my iPad
On Jan 25, 2021, at 8:48 PM, Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Any suggestions for M15? Size? Brand?
Thanks Capt Jim SV Pelican
Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>
Jim. Where are you located? :: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new site! On Wed, Jan 27, 2021, 8:31 AM Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote: Thanks skipper
Where can you find the teak plywood? Capt Jim
Oceanside Ca. -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com> On Behalf Of Dave Scobie Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2021 9:11 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Marine plywood Jim. Where are you located? :: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new site! On Wed, Jan 27, 2021, 8:31 AM Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote: Thanks skipper
Where can you find the teak plywood? Capt Jim
Jim: IMO you are in a location that should have some sellers of marine plywood. Do a Google Maps search for 'marine hardwood'. Challenge is you are wanted a small bit of wood v. a sheet. Another option is to use iroko instead of teak. This wood is less expensive; very similar resistance to rot like teak; and used commonly by plywood boat builders. It is stiffer and doesn't take bending like teak - so not an issue for a hatch board. I replaced my M17s hatch boards with iroko veneer plywood. Iroko is lighter colored than teak. :: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new site! On Wed, Jan 27, 2021, 9:46 AM Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Oceanside Ca.
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com> On Behalf Of Dave Scobie Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2021 9:11 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Marine plywood
Jim.
Where are you located?
:: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new site!
On Wed, Jan 27, 2021, 8:31 AM Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Thanks skipper
Where can you find the teak plywood? Capt Jim
Oceanside.....spend freeway time to drive to Strata Lumber in Santa Ana, CA. Try to buy a short sheet of 1/2 inch good one side Teak Plywood. If they don’t have a short sheet and you have to buy a full sheet bring a Makita battery powered skill saw and cut the plywood in 3s. Also buy a small piece if half inch teak hardwood to Rip for cleat stock to attach to the drops for water protection. Teak ply isn’t what it used to be (cheap glue?) so take the time to seal the edges with Epoxy. Otherwise it will delaminate like a deck of cards from moisture. Bob Sent from my iPad
On Jan 27, 2021, at 9:46 AM, Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Oceanside Ca.
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com> On Behalf Of Dave Scobie Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2021 9:11 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Marine plywood
Jim.
Where are you located?
:: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new site!
On Wed, Jan 27, 2021, 8:31 AM Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Thanks skipper
Where can you find the teak plywood? Capt Jim
Thanks skipper My boards are 3/8 Do other skipper convert to 1/2" Capt Jim -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com> On Behalf Of Bob Eeg Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2021 10:17 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Marine plywood Oceanside.....spend freeway time to drive to Strata Lumber in Santa Ana, CA. Try to buy a short sheet of 1/2 inch good one side Teak Plywood. If they don’t have a short sheet and you have to buy a full sheet bring a Makita battery powered skill saw and cut the plywood in 3s. Also buy a small piece if half inch teak hardwood to Rip for cleat stock to attach to the drops for water protection. Teak ply isn’t what it used to be (cheap glue?) so take the time to seal the edges with Epoxy. Otherwise it will delaminate like a deck of cards from moisture. Bob Sent from my iPad
On Jan 27, 2021, at 9:46 AM, Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Oceanside Ca.
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com> On Behalf Of Dave Scobie Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2021 9:11 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Marine plywood
Jim.
Where are you located?
:: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new site!
On Wed, Jan 27, 2021, 8:31 AM Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Thanks skipper
Where can you find the teak plywood? Capt Jim
I made new hatch boards for my M17 from 12mm (~1/2") Baltic birch ply. This is readily available at most wood suppliers as it is used for all manner of cabinet-making work. Often available in 5 ft. square pieces as well as 4x8 ft. sheets. It is much lighter color than teak, which I happen to like, YMMV. It is not "marine" wood so you'll want to seal it well. I used CPES on all the edges, which are the most vulnerable part. Then epoxy to seal all surfaces, and I glassed the outside face (partly for durability, partly to reduce possible warping). Then marine varnish to protect the epoxy from UV. I didn't use cleat strips, I just ripped the relevant edges of the pieces at a down-sloping angle (as seen in cross-section, when installed). So they overlap shingle-style at bottom/middle and middle/top. Kinda/like/this, but more vertical... :-) It has been in windy & rainy conditions when stored, moored, and towed and no water comes in. Cleaner simpler lighter than cleat strips, which unless you rip the top edges at a similar angle catch water there anyway. I made a cardboard template first, then cut plywood based on that in one big piece, then a bit of trimming for final fit, then ripped into three boards with blade at angle. Measure three times, cut once! cheers, John On 1/27/21 10:16 AM, Bob Eeg wrote:
Oceanside.....spend freeway time to drive to Strata Lumber in Santa Ana, CA. Try to buy a short sheet of 1/2 inch good one side Teak Plywood. If they don’t have a short sheet and you have to buy a full sheet bring a Makita battery powered skill saw and cut the plywood in 3s. Also buy a small piece if half inch teak hardwood to Rip for cleat stock to attach to the drops for water protection. Teak ply isn’t what it used to be (cheap glue?) so take the time to seal the edges with Epoxy. Otherwise it will delaminate like a deck of cards from moisture. Bob
Sent from my iPad
On Jan 27, 2021, at 9:46 AM, Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Oceanside Ca.
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com> On Behalf Of Dave Scobie Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2021 9:11 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Marine plywood
Jim.
Where are you located?
:: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new site!
On Wed, Jan 27, 2021, 8:31 AM Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Thanks skipper
Where can you find the teak plywood? Capt Jim
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
Hi all: This may sound dumb and very unprofessional, but . . . I mounted my compass on the deck and it’s easy to see. I have never tripped over it and it doesn’t seem to get in the way. I’m a glue person. I don’t like drilling in the boat. So, I’m a fan of Liquid Nails. I’ve mounted shelves, cup holders, coat hooks, etc on the boat with the glue and it has held for about 3 years. Mounted the compass on a piece of wood and both are glued. HOWEVER, the compass gets slightly in the way when stepping the mast. I’ve added height to the crutch to take care of this. Pete WinterSky (Zimowsky) San Juan Islander lost inland - an old salty stuck in the sagebrush outdoors writer and photographer www.getoutdoorsnorthwest.com <http://www.getoutdoorsnorthwest.com/> Twitter: @zimosoutdoors "We Can Not Control the Wind But We Can Adjust Our Sails"
Hi Peter, I've been sailing for over 50 years. I can tell you that in my opinion, the best place for a compass is as close as your line of sight as possible. Mounting your compass on the cabin top of your Montgomery is a very logical location. Bravo. Paul On Wed, Jan 27, 2021 at 2:32 PM Peter Zimowsky via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Hi all: This may sound dumb and very unprofessional, but . . . I mounted my compass on the deck and it’s easy to see. I have never tripped over it and it doesn’t seem to get in the way. I’m a glue person. I don’t like drilling in the boat. So, I’m a fan of Liquid Nails. I’ve mounted shelves, cup holders, coat hooks, etc on the boat with the glue and it has held for about 3 years. Mounted the compass on a piece of wood and both are glued. HOWEVER, the compass gets slightly in the way when stepping the mast. I’ve added height to the crutch to take care of this.
Pete WinterSky (Zimowsky)
San Juan Islander lost inland - an old salty stuck in the sagebrush
outdoors writer and photographer www.getoutdoorsnorthwest.com <http://www.getoutdoorsnorthwest.com/> Twitter: @zimosoutdoors
"We Can Not Control the Wind But We Can Adjust Our Sails"
-- There are only 3 types of people in the world. Ones that can count and ones that can't.
I second Paul's suggestion. Spirit's compass is on a spare lower washboard. Here are the drawbacks: 1) As Paul said it's not in your line of sight while sailing. This means leaning forward with your head down to read the compass during less-than-ideal visibility conditions instead of taking a quick glance toward the cabin top. 2) You have to step over the lower washboard to get in/out of the cabin when the compass is in place. Mine has been kicked more than a few times. 3) When not in use (90% of the time) the compass/washboard is an unruly, awkward gizmo to store below. For most of my casual navigation (SF Bay area and Pacific Northwest) I use my old West Marine hockey puck style hand bearing compass. It's not ideal but it works okay. I'm going to look into the Silva UN70, or some other removable cabin-top option for future adventures. - Jim P. M17 "Spirit" On 1/27/2021 3:11 PM, Paul Baker wrote:
Hi Peter, I've been sailing for over 50 years. I can tell you that in my opinion, the best place for a compass is as close as your line of sight as possible. Mounting your compass on the cabin top of your Montgomery is a very logical location. Bravo. Paul
On Wed, Jan 27, 2021 at 2:32 PM Peter Zimowsky via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Hi all: This may sound dumb and very unprofessional, but . . . I mounted my compass on the deck and it’s easy to see. I have never tripped over it and it doesn’t seem to get in the way. I’m a glue person. I don’t like drilling in the boat. So, I’m a fan of Liquid Nails. I’ve mounted shelves, cup holders, coat hooks, etc on the boat with the glue and it has held for about 3 years. Mounted the compass on a piece of wood and both are glued. HOWEVER, the compass gets slightly in the way when stepping the mast. I’ve added height to the crutch to take care of this.
Pete WinterSky (Zimowsky)
San Juan Islander lost inland - an old salty stuck in the sagebrush
outdoors writer and photographer www.getoutdoorsnorthwest.com <http://www.getoutdoorsnorthwest.com/> Twitter: @zimosoutdoors
"We Can Not Control the Wind But We Can Adjust Our Sails"
That Silva UN70 looks nifty. There's another one I looked into a couple years ago that is similar, mount or hand bearing, can't recall the make/model at the moment. But this one is a fair bit less expensive and looks more compact also. Thanks for the suggestion. Would be good for paddlecraft too if it's small enough. cheers, John On 1/27/21 4:33 PM, Jim Poulakis wrote:
I second Paul's suggestion. Spirit's compass is on a spare lower washboard. Here are the drawbacks:
1) As Paul said it's not in your line of sight while sailing. This means leaning forward with your head down to read the compass during less-than-ideal visibility conditions instead of taking a quick glance toward the cabin top.
2) You have to step over the lower washboard to get in/out of the cabin when the compass is in place. Mine has been kicked more than a few times.
3) When not in use (90% of the time) the compass/washboard is an unruly, awkward gizmo to store below.
For most of my casual navigation (SF Bay area and Pacific Northwest) I use my old West Marine hockey puck style hand bearing compass. It's not ideal but it works okay. I'm going to look into the Silva UN70, or some other removable cabin-top option for future adventures.
- Jim P.
M17 "Spirit"
On 1/27/2021 3:11 PM, Paul Baker wrote:
Hi Peter, I've been sailing for over 50 years. I can tell you that in my opinion, the best place for a compass is as close as your line of sight as possible. Mounting your compass on the cabin top of your Montgomery is a very logical location. Bravo. Paul
On Wed, Jan 27, 2021 at 2:32 PM Peter Zimowsky via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Hi all: This may sound dumb and very unprofessional, but . . . I mounted my compass on the deck and it’s easy to see. I have never tripped over it and it doesn’t seem to get in the way. I’m a glue person. I don’t like drilling in the boat. So, I’m a fan of Liquid Nails. I’ve mounted shelves, cup holders, coat hooks, etc on the boat with the glue and it has held for about 3 years. Mounted the compass on a piece of wood and both are glued. HOWEVER, the compass gets slightly in the way when stepping the mast. I’ve added height to the crutch to take care of this.
Pete WinterSky (Zimowsky)
San Juan Islander lost inland - an old salty stuck in the sagebrush
outdoors writer and photographer www.getoutdoorsnorthwest.com <http://www.getoutdoorsnorthwest.com/> Twitter: @zimosoutdoors
"We Can Not Control the Wind But We Can Adjust Our Sails"
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
The other one I saw is the Plastimo Iris 100. Also handheld/removable mount combo. But it is around twice as much as the Silva. Does anyone know the size of the Silva? The Silva web site itself has no information on dimensions of the product...!?! The Plastimo Iris 100 is 3 5/8" card. No light. The Silva has internal battery-powered light. cheers, John On 1/27/21 7:33 PM, John Schinnerer via montgomery_boats wrote:
That Silva UN70 looks nifty.
There's another one I looked into a couple years ago that is similar, mount or hand bearing, can't recall the make/model at the moment. But this one is a fair bit less expensive and looks more compact also. Thanks for the suggestion. Would be good for paddlecraft too if it's small enough.
cheers, John
On 1/27/21 4:33 PM, Jim Poulakis wrote:
I second Paul's suggestion. Spirit's compass is on a spare lower washboard. Here are the drawbacks:
1) As Paul said it's not in your line of sight while sailing. This means leaning forward with your head down to read the compass during less-than-ideal visibility conditions instead of taking a quick glance toward the cabin top.
2) You have to step over the lower washboard to get in/out of the cabin when the compass is in place. Mine has been kicked more than a few times.
3) When not in use (90% of the time) the compass/washboard is an unruly, awkward gizmo to store below.
For most of my casual navigation (SF Bay area and Pacific Northwest) I use my old West Marine hockey puck style hand bearing compass. It's not ideal but it works okay. I'm going to look into the Silva UN70, or some other removable cabin-top option for future adventures.
- Jim P.
M17 "Spirit"
On 1/27/2021 3:11 PM, Paul Baker wrote:
Hi Peter, I've been sailing for over 50 years. I can tell you that in my opinion, the best place for a compass is as close as your line of sight as possible. Mounting your compass on the cabin top of your Montgomery is a very logical location. Bravo. Paul
On Wed, Jan 27, 2021 at 2:32 PM Peter Zimowsky via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Hi all: This may sound dumb and very unprofessional, but . . . I mounted my compass on the deck and it’s easy to see. I have never tripped over it and it doesn’t seem to get in the way. I’m a glue person. I don’t like drilling in the boat. So, I’m a fan of Liquid Nails. I’ve mounted shelves, cup holders, coat hooks, etc on the boat with the glue and it has held for about 3 years. Mounted the compass on a piece of wood and both are glued. HOWEVER, the compass gets slightly in the way when stepping the mast. I’ve added height to the crutch to take care of this.
Pete WinterSky (Zimowsky)
San Juan Islander lost inland - an old salty stuck in the sagebrush
outdoors writer and photographer www.getoutdoorsnorthwest.com <http://www.getoutdoorsnorthwest.com/> Twitter: @zimosoutdoors
"We Can Not Control the Wind But We Can Adjust Our Sails"
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
OK I found a site that appears to give card dimension for the Silva. https://www.marinechandlery.com/silva-compass-type-70 The 70 means 70mm, which is close enough to 2 3/4" - so it's a bit more compact than the Plastimo. This site shows that the 70UNE is the model with built in illumination, vs. the 70UN without it, identical otherwise. I am seeing the 70UN on eBay for ~$40 and up. Seems like a pretty good deal. Silva is a primary brand in the compass world, I've had (still have) several of their land-based compasses. cheers, john On 1/27/21 8:08 PM, John Schinnerer wrote:
The other one I saw is the Plastimo Iris 100. Also handheld/removable mount combo. But it is around twice as much as the Silva.
Does anyone know the size of the Silva?
The Silva web site itself has no information on dimensions of the product...!?!
The Plastimo Iris 100 is 3 5/8" card. No light. The Silva has internal battery-powered light.
cheers, John
On 1/27/21 7:33 PM, John Schinnerer via montgomery_boats wrote:
That Silva UN70 looks nifty.
There's another one I looked into a couple years ago that is similar, mount or hand bearing, can't recall the make/model at the moment. But this one is a fair bit less expensive and looks more compact also. Thanks for the suggestion. Would be good for paddlecraft too if it's small enough.
cheers, John
On 1/27/21 4:33 PM, Jim Poulakis wrote:
I second Paul's suggestion. Spirit's compass is on a spare lower washboard. Here are the drawbacks:
1) As Paul said it's not in your line of sight while sailing. This means leaning forward with your head down to read the compass during less-than-ideal visibility conditions instead of taking a quick glance toward the cabin top.
2) You have to step over the lower washboard to get in/out of the cabin when the compass is in place. Mine has been kicked more than a few times.
3) When not in use (90% of the time) the compass/washboard is an unruly, awkward gizmo to store below.
For most of my casual navigation (SF Bay area and Pacific Northwest) I use my old West Marine hockey puck style hand bearing compass. It's not ideal but it works okay. I'm going to look into the Silva UN70, or some other removable cabin-top option for future adventures.
- Jim P.
M17 "Spirit"
On 1/27/2021 3:11 PM, Paul Baker wrote:
Hi Peter, I've been sailing for over 50 years. I can tell you that in my opinion, the best place for a compass is as close as your line of sight as possible. Mounting your compass on the cabin top of your Montgomery is a very logical location. Bravo. Paul
On Wed, Jan 27, 2021 at 2:32 PM Peter Zimowsky via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Hi all: This may sound dumb and very unprofessional, but . . . I mounted my compass on the deck and it’s easy to see. I have never tripped over it and it doesn’t seem to get in the way. I’m a glue person. I don’t like drilling in the boat. So, I’m a fan of Liquid Nails. I’ve mounted shelves, cup holders, coat hooks, etc on the boat with the glue and it has held for about 3 years. Mounted the compass on a piece of wood and both are glued. HOWEVER, the compass gets slightly in the way when stepping the mast. I’ve added height to the crutch to take care of this.
Pete WinterSky (Zimowsky)
San Juan Islander lost inland - an old salty stuck in the sagebrush
outdoors writer and photographer www.getoutdoorsnorthwest.com <http://www.getoutdoorsnorthwest.com/> Twitter: @zimosoutdoors
"We Can Not Control the Wind But We Can Adjust Our Sails"
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
I installed a couple of the Plastimo Iris 100s onto Sage owners. Nice units. :: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new site! On Wed, Jan 27, 2021, 8:09 PM John Schinnerer via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
The other one I saw is the Plastimo Iris 100. Also handheld/removable mount combo. But it is around twice as much as the Silva.
Does anyone know the size of the Silva?
The Silva web site itself has no information on dimensions of the product...!?!
The Plastimo Iris 100 is 3 5/8" card. No light. The Silva has internal battery-powered light.
cheers, John
On 1/27/21 7:33 PM, John Schinnerer via montgomery_boats wrote:
That Silva UN70 looks nifty.
There's another one I looked into a couple years ago that is similar, mount or hand bearing, can't recall the make/model at the moment. But this one is a fair bit less expensive and looks more compact also. Thanks for the suggestion. Would be good for paddlecraft too if it's small enough.
cheers, John
On 1/27/21 4:33 PM, Jim Poulakis wrote:
I second Paul's suggestion. Spirit's compass is on a spare lower washboard. Here are the drawbacks:
1) As Paul said it's not in your line of sight while sailing. This means leaning forward with your head down to read the compass during less-than-ideal visibility conditions instead of taking a quick glance toward the cabin top.
2) You have to step over the lower washboard to get in/out of the cabin when the compass is in place. Mine has been kicked more than a few times.
3) When not in use (90% of the time) the compass/washboard is an unruly, awkward gizmo to store below.
For most of my casual navigation (SF Bay area and Pacific Northwest) I use my old West Marine hockey puck style hand bearing compass. It's not ideal but it works okay. I'm going to look into the Silva UN70, or some other removable cabin-top option for future adventures.
- Jim P.
M17 "Spirit"
On 1/27/2021 3:11 PM, Paul Baker wrote:
Hi Peter, I've been sailing for over 50 years. I can tell you that in my opinion, the best place for a compass is as close as your line of sight as possible. Mounting your compass on the cabin top of your Montgomery is a very logical location. Bravo. Paul
On Wed, Jan 27, 2021 at 2:32 PM Peter Zimowsky via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Hi all: This may sound dumb and very unprofessional, but . . . I mounted my compass on the deck and it’s easy to see. I have never tripped over it and it doesn’t seem to get in the way. I’m a glue person. I don’t like drilling in the boat. So, I’m a fan of Liquid Nails. I’ve mounted shelves, cup holders, coat hooks, etc on the boat with the glue and it has held for about 3 years. Mounted the compass on a piece of wood and both are glued. HOWEVER, the compass gets slightly in the way when stepping the mast. I’ve added height to the crutch to take care of this.
Pete WinterSky (Zimowsky)
San Juan Islander lost inland - an old salty stuck in the sagebrush
outdoors writer and photographer www.getoutdoorsnorthwest.com <http://www.getoutdoorsnorthwest.com/> Twitter: @zimosoutdoors
"We Can Not Control the Wind But We Can Adjust Our Sails"
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
I use the UN70 on my GP14, it's a good unit and Silva makes very good products. They are generally overlooked by most people, which is a shame. On Wed, Jan 27, 2021 at 10:34 PM John Schinnerer via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
That Silva UN70 looks nifty.
There's another one I looked into a couple years ago that is similar, mount or hand bearing, can't recall the make/model at the moment. But this one is a fair bit less expensive and looks more compact also. Thanks for the suggestion. Would be good for paddlecraft too if it's small enough.
cheers, John
On 1/27/21 4:33 PM, Jim Poulakis wrote:
I second Paul's suggestion. Spirit's compass is on a spare lower washboard. Here are the drawbacks:
1) As Paul said it's not in your line of sight while sailing. This means leaning forward with your head down to read the compass during less-than-ideal visibility conditions instead of taking a quick glance toward the cabin top.
2) You have to step over the lower washboard to get in/out of the cabin when the compass is in place. Mine has been kicked more than a few times.
3) When not in use (90% of the time) the compass/washboard is an unruly, awkward gizmo to store below.
For most of my casual navigation (SF Bay area and Pacific Northwest) I use my old West Marine hockey puck style hand bearing compass. It's not ideal but it works okay. I'm going to look into the Silva UN70, or some other removable cabin-top option for future adventures.
- Jim P.
M17 "Spirit"
On 1/27/2021 3:11 PM, Paul Baker wrote:
Hi Peter, I've been sailing for over 50 years. I can tell you that in my opinion, the best place for a compass is as close as your line of sight as possible. Mounting your compass on the cabin top of your Montgomery is a very logical location. Bravo. Paul
On Wed, Jan 27, 2021 at 2:32 PM Peter Zimowsky via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Hi all: This may sound dumb and very unprofessional, but . . . I mounted my compass on the deck and it’s easy to see. I have never tripped over it and it doesn’t seem to get in the way. I’m a glue person. I don’t like drilling in the boat. So, I’m a fan of Liquid Nails. I’ve mounted shelves, cup holders, coat hooks, etc on the boat with the glue and it has held for about 3 years. Mounted the compass on a piece of wood and both are glued. HOWEVER, the compass gets slightly in the way when stepping the mast. I’ve added height to the crutch to take care of this.
Pete WinterSky (Zimowsky)
San Juan Islander lost inland - an old salty stuck in the sagebrush
outdoors writer and photographer www.getoutdoorsnorthwest.com <http://www.getoutdoorsnorthwest.com/> Twitter: @zimosoutdoors
"We Can Not Control the Wind But We Can Adjust Our Sails"
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
Peter (and others following along): Sage Marine offers a drop in hatch for mounting things like a compass, GPS, etc. Pictures and assembly details here - https://www.sagemarine.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=439&p=1728 :: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new site! On Wed, Jan 27, 2021, 2:32 PM Peter Zimowsky via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Hi all: This may sound dumb and very unprofessional, but . . . I mounted my compass on the deck and it’s easy to see. I have never tripped over it and it doesn’t seem to get in the way. I’m a glue person. I don’t like drilling in the boat. So, I’m a fan of Liquid Nails. I’ve mounted shelves, cup holders, coat hooks, etc on the boat with the glue and it has held for about 3 years. Mounted the compass on a piece of wood and both are glued. HOWEVER, the compass gets slightly in the way when stepping the mast. I’ve added height to the crutch to take care of this.
Pete WinterSky (Zimowsky)
San Juan Islander lost inland - an old salty stuck in the sagebrush
outdoors writer and photographer www.getoutdoorsnorthwest.com <http://www.getoutdoorsnorthwest.com/> Twitter: @zimosoutdoors
"We Can Not Control the Wind But We Can Adjust Our Sails"
Original boards were a bit larger than 3/8"; some 1/2 will fit but barely. With 1/2, you might need to put a slight bevel on the outside top so the slider will drop over it. jerry ________________________________ From: montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com> on behalf of John Schinnerer via montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2021 12:00 PM To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Marine plywood - hatch boards I made new hatch boards for my M17 from 12mm (~1/2") Baltic birch ply. This is readily available at most wood suppliers as it is used for all manner of cabinet-making work. Often available in 5 ft. square pieces as well as 4x8 ft. sheets. It is much lighter color than teak, which I happen to like, YMMV. It is not "marine" wood so you'll want to seal it well. I used CPES on all the edges, which are the most vulnerable part. Then epoxy to seal all surfaces, and I glassed the outside face (partly for durability, partly to reduce possible warping). Then marine varnish to protect the epoxy from UV. I didn't use cleat strips, I just ripped the relevant edges of the pieces at a down-sloping angle (as seen in cross-section, when installed). So they overlap shingle-style at bottom/middle and middle/top. Kinda/like/this, but more vertical... :-) It has been in windy & rainy conditions when stored, moored, and towed and no water comes in. Cleaner simpler lighter than cleat strips, which unless you rip the top edges at a similar angle catch water there anyway. I made a cardboard template first, then cut plywood based on that in one big piece, then a bit of trimming for final fit, then ripped into three boards with blade at angle. Measure three times, cut once! cheers, John On 1/27/21 10:16 AM, Bob Eeg wrote:
Oceanside.....spend freeway time to drive to Strata Lumber in Santa Ana, CA. Try to buy a short sheet of 1/2 inch good one side Teak Plywood. If they don’t have a short sheet and you have to buy a full sheet bring a Makita battery powered skill saw and cut the plywood in 3s. Also buy a small piece if half inch teak hardwood to Rip for cleat stock to attach to the drops for water protection. Teak ply isn’t what it used to be (cheap glue?) so take the time to seal the edges with Epoxy. Otherwise it will delaminate like a deck of cards from moisture. Bob
Sent from my iPad
On Jan 27, 2021, at 9:46 AM, Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Oceanside Ca.
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com> On Behalf Of Dave Scobie Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2021 9:11 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Marine plywood
Jim.
Where are you located?
:: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new site!
On Wed, Jan 27, 2021, 8:31 AM Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Thanks skipper
Where can you find the teak plywood? Capt Jim
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
Yeah 12mm of whatever kind of wood is a wee bit less than 1/2" - .47" in decimal. It fits easily but not too sloppy in my M17 slots even after glassing one side. cheers, John On 1/27/21 4:32 PM, jerry montgomery wrote:
Original boards were a bit larger than 3/8"; some 1/2 will fit but barely. With 1/2, you might need to put a slight bevel on the outside top so the slider will drop over it.
jerry
------------------------------------------------------------------------ *From:* montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com> on behalf of John Schinnerer via montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> *Sent:* Wednesday, January 27, 2021 12:00 PM *To:* montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> *Subject:* Re: M_Boats: Marine plywood - hatch boards I made new hatch boards for my M17 from 12mm (~1/2") Baltic birch ply.
This is readily available at most wood suppliers as it is used for all manner of cabinet-making work. Often available in 5 ft. square pieces as well as 4x8 ft. sheets.
It is much lighter color than teak, which I happen to like, YMMV.
It is not "marine" wood so you'll want to seal it well. I used CPES on all the edges, which are the most vulnerable part. Then epoxy to seal all surfaces, and I glassed the outside face (partly for durability, partly to reduce possible warping). Then marine varnish to protect the epoxy from UV.
I didn't use cleat strips, I just ripped the relevant edges of the pieces at a down-sloping angle (as seen in cross-section, when installed). So they overlap shingle-style at bottom/middle and middle/top. Kinda/like/this, but more vertical... :-)
It has been in windy & rainy conditions when stored, moored, and towed and no water comes in.
Cleaner simpler lighter than cleat strips, which unless you rip the top edges at a similar angle catch water there anyway.
I made a cardboard template first, then cut plywood based on that in one big piece, then a bit of trimming for final fit, then ripped into three boards with blade at angle. Measure three times, cut once!
cheers, John
On 1/27/21 10:16 AM, Bob Eeg wrote:
Oceanside.....spend freeway time to drive to Strata Lumber in Santa Ana, CA. Try to buy a short sheet of 1/2 inch good one side Teak Plywood. If they don’t have a short sheet and you have to buy a full sheet bring a Makita battery powered skill saw and cut the plywood in 3s. Also buy a small piece if half inch teak hardwood to Rip for cleat stock to attach to the drops for water protection. Teak ply isn’t what it used to be (cheap glue?) so take the time to seal the edges with Epoxy. Otherwise it will delaminate like a deck of cards from moisture. Bob
Sent from my iPad
On Jan 27, 2021, at 9:46 AM, Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Oceanside Ca.
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com> On Behalf Of Dave Scobie Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2021 9:11 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Marine plywood
Jim.
Where are you located?
:: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new site!
On Wed, Jan 27, 2021, 8:31 AM Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Thanks skipper
Where can you find the teak plywood? Capt Jim
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
I have located a 4 X 8 Sheet of Teak Plywood, but it is not marine grade. If I use teak oil, I'm wondering if it will be okay. Does anyone have an opinion on this? Thanks, Paul On Wed, Jan 27, 2021 at 7:41 PM John Schinnerer via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Yeah 12mm of whatever kind of wood is a wee bit less than 1/2" - .47" in decimal. It fits easily but not too sloppy in my M17 slots even after glassing one side.
cheers, John
On 1/27/21 4:32 PM, jerry montgomery wrote:
Original boards were a bit larger than 3/8"; some 1/2 will fit but barely. With 1/2, you might need to put a slight bevel on the outside top so the slider will drop over it.
jerry
------------------------------------------------------------------------ *From:* montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com>
on behalf of John Schinnerer via montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> *Sent:* Wednesday, January 27, 2021 12:00 PM *To:* montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> *Subject:* Re: M_Boats: Marine plywood - hatch boards I made new hatch boards for my M17 from 12mm (~1/2") Baltic birch ply.
This is readily available at most wood suppliers as it is used for all manner of cabinet-making work. Often available in 5 ft. square pieces as well as 4x8 ft. sheets.
It is much lighter color than teak, which I happen to like, YMMV.
It is not "marine" wood so you'll want to seal it well. I used CPES on all the edges, which are the most vulnerable part. Then epoxy to seal all surfaces, and I glassed the outside face (partly for durability, partly to reduce possible warping). Then marine varnish to protect the epoxy from UV.
I didn't use cleat strips, I just ripped the relevant edges of the pieces at a down-sloping angle (as seen in cross-section, when installed). So they overlap shingle-style at bottom/middle and middle/top. Kinda/like/this, but more vertical... :-)
It has been in windy & rainy conditions when stored, moored, and towed and no water comes in.
Cleaner simpler lighter than cleat strips, which unless you rip the top edges at a similar angle catch water there anyway.
I made a cardboard template first, then cut plywood based on that in one big piece, then a bit of trimming for final fit, then ripped into three boards with blade at angle. Measure three times, cut once!
cheers, John
On 1/27/21 10:16 AM, Bob Eeg wrote:
Oceanside.....spend freeway time to drive to Strata Lumber in Santa Ana, CA. Try to buy a short sheet of 1/2 inch good one side Teak Plywood. If they don’t have a short sheet and you have to buy a full sheet bring a Makita battery powered skill saw and cut the plywood in 3s. Also buy a small piece if half inch teak hardwood to Rip for cleat stock to attach to the drops for water protection. Teak ply isn’t what it used to be (cheap glue?) so take the time to seal the edges with Epoxy. Otherwise it will delaminate like a deck of cards from moisture. Bob
Sent from my iPad
On Jan 27, 2021, at 9:46 AM, Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Oceanside Ca.
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com> On Behalf Of Dave Scobie Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2021 9:11 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Marine plywood
Jim.
Where are you located?
:: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new site!
On Wed, Jan 27, 2021, 8:31 AM Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Thanks skipper
Where can you find the teak plywood? Capt Jim
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
-- There are only 3 types of people in the world. Ones that can count and ones that can't.
Paul: The issue is the glue may react poorly to any water if it isn't exterior rated. The inner layers of the plywood may have voids ... as the hatch boards are not structural nor being bent small voids isn't much of an issue. If you wish to give it a try epoxy the edges. If any voids along the edges fill the gaps with thickened epoxy. The edge are where water will easily enter the layers and delam the plywood and rot the wood. The outer surfaces finish how you like. If you accidentally put a gash in the teak veneer epoxy the spot soonest as water will get into the layers (with problems as noted above for the edges). IMO that plywood will have a limited lifespan depending upon how much water (or even high humidity) gets into the layers. :: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new site! On Thu, Jan 28, 2021, 7:22 AM Paul Baker <avalonjazz@gmail.com> wrote:
I have located a 4 X 8 Sheet of Teak Plywood, but it is not marine grade. If I use teak oil, I'm wondering if it will be okay. Does anyone have an opinion on this? Thanks, Paul
On Wed, Jan 27, 2021 at 7:41 PM John Schinnerer via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Yeah 12mm of whatever kind of wood is a wee bit less than 1/2" - .47" in decimal. It fits easily but not too sloppy in my M17 slots even after glassing one side.
cheers, John
On 1/27/21 4:32 PM, jerry montgomery wrote:
Original boards were a bit larger than 3/8"; some 1/2 will fit but barely. With 1/2, you might need to put a slight bevel on the outside top so the slider will drop over it.
jerry
Thanks Dave, I use West Systems a lot. I think I will coat the boards and put some UV satin varnish on them. That way the entire thing should be pretty waterproof. I would have rather used teak oil like on the rest of the trim, but I want the boards to last. I like the way teak oil looks more. It will be more work up front, but then I can forget about it. I'm also going to make a separate lower board for my compass when I'm sailing. Thanks for your input. Paul On Thu, Jan 28, 2021 at 8:20 AM Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Paul:
The issue is the glue may react poorly to any water if it isn't exterior rated. The inner layers of the plywood may have voids ... as the hatch boards are not structural nor being bent small voids isn't much of an issue.
If you wish to give it a try epoxy the edges. If any voids along the edges fill the gaps with thickened epoxy. The edge are where water will easily enter the layers and delam the plywood and rot the wood. The outer surfaces finish how you like. If you accidentally put a gash in the teak veneer epoxy the spot soonest as water will get into the layers (with problems as noted above for the edges).
IMO that plywood will have a limited lifespan depending upon how much water (or even high humidity) gets into the layers.
:: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new site!
On Thu, Jan 28, 2021, 7:22 AM Paul Baker <avalonjazz@gmail.com> wrote:
I have located a 4 X 8 Sheet of Teak Plywood, but it is not marine grade. If I use teak oil, I'm wondering if it will be okay. Does anyone have an opinion on this? Thanks, Paul
On Wed, Jan 27, 2021 at 7:41 PM John Schinnerer via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Yeah 12mm of whatever kind of wood is a wee bit less than 1/2" - .47" in decimal. It fits easily but not too sloppy in my M17 slots even after glassing one side.
cheers, John
On 1/27/21 4:32 PM, jerry montgomery wrote:
Original boards were a bit larger than 3/8"; some 1/2 will fit but barely. With 1/2, you might need to put a slight bevel on the outside top so the slider will drop over it.
jerry
-- There are only 3 types of people in the world. Ones that can count and ones that can't.
Paul: Do two coats of epoxy. The second just as the first coat gets very sticky but and not hard. After epoxy wipe of blush with water. Wipe again. Let epoxy cure a full week and twice again wipe with water. Then apply seven coats of varnish. If the epoxy isn't fully cured and blush completely removed the varnish will never harden. If boards are a tight fit in the companionway, meaning in the grove behind the teak keepers (called cleats), as Jerry mentioned take off some of the hatchboard material at the edges. After all the coats of epoxy and varnish you don't want the boards sticking. :: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new site! On Thu, Jan 28, 2021, 10:25 AM Paul Baker <avalonjazz@gmail.com> wrote:
Thanks Dave, I use West Systems a lot. I think I will coat the boards and put some UV satin varnish on them. That way the entire thing should be pretty waterproof. I would have rather used teak oil like on the rest of the trim, but I want the boards to last. I like the way teak oil looks more. It will be more work up front, but then I can forget about it. I'm also going to make a separate lower board for my compass when I'm sailing. Thanks for your input. Paul
On Thu, Jan 28, 2021 at 8:20 AM Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Paul:
The issue is the glue may react poorly to any water if it isn't exterior rated. The inner layers of the plywood may have voids ... as the hatch boards are not structural nor being bent small voids isn't much of an issue.
If you wish to give it a try epoxy the edges. If any voids along the edges fill the gaps with thickened epoxy. The edge are where water will easily enter the layers and delam the plywood and rot the wood. The outer surfaces finish how you like. If you accidentally put a gash in the teak veneer epoxy the spot soonest as water will get into the layers (with problems as noted above for the edges).
IMO that plywood will have a limited lifespan depending upon how much water (or even high humidity) gets into the layers.
:: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new site!
On Thu, Jan 28, 2021, 7:22 AM Paul Baker <avalonjazz@gmail.com> wrote:
I have located a 4 X 8 Sheet of Teak Plywood, but it is not marine grade. If I use teak oil, I'm wondering if it will be okay. Does anyone have an opinion on this? Thanks, Paul
On Wed, Jan 27, 2021 at 7:41 PM John Schinnerer via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Yeah 12mm of whatever kind of wood is a wee bit less than 1/2" - .47" in decimal. It fits easily but not too sloppy in my M17 slots even after glassing one side.
cheers, John
On 1/27/21 4:32 PM, jerry montgomery wrote:
Original boards were a bit larger than 3/8"; some 1/2 will fit but barely. With 1/2, you might need to put a slight bevel on the outside top so the slider will drop over it.
jerry
If you use quality epoxies with modern compositions, the whole blush thing is much reduced or even eliminated. I have been using epoxy from Raka, which is more affordable than the "big bucks big names" and have had no issues with blush. A light sanding of the cured epoxy surface with fine grit (180-220) is good for smoothing and also varnish adhesion. Raka epoxies (and cloth and fillers etc. etc.): http://raka.com/epoxy.html His web site is crude but his products are good, and he charges actual calculated shipping cost for weight (not inflated "flat rate" or based on cost of order, like some places). In fact I think I first found Raka from someone here...? Painting on epoxy has very limited penetration. For truly penetrating and sealing (like plywood edges and end grain of any wood), CPES is the stuff: http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/index.html Another crude web site, and excellent product. I actually met this guy (Steve Smith) when I bought some CPES at their retail site in Richmond (CA). He is a real mad-scientist type genius, and can tell you waaaaay more than you want to know about epoxies and their chemical formulations and blah blah blah... It looks expensive, but a little goes a long way when you actually use it. cheers, John On 1/28/21 10:52 AM, Dave Scobie wrote:
Paul:
Do two coats of epoxy. The second just as the first coat gets very sticky but and not hard.
After epoxy wipe of blush with water. Wipe again. Let epoxy cure a full week and twice again wipe with water. Then apply seven coats of varnish. If the epoxy isn't fully cured and blush completely removed the varnish will never harden.
If boards are a tight fit in the companionway, meaning in the grove behind the teak keepers (called cleats), as Jerry mentioned take off some of the hatchboard material at the edges. After all the coats of epoxy and varnish you don't want the boards sticking.
:: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new site!
On Thu, Jan 28, 2021, 10:25 AM Paul Baker <avalonjazz@gmail.com> wrote:
Thanks Dave, I use West Systems a lot. I think I will coat the boards and put some UV satin varnish on them. That way the entire thing should be pretty waterproof. I would have rather used teak oil like on the rest of the trim, but I want the boards to last. I like the way teak oil looks more. It will be more work up front, but then I can forget about it. I'm also going to make a separate lower board for my compass when I'm sailing. Thanks for your input. Paul
On Thu, Jan 28, 2021 at 8:20 AM Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Paul:
The issue is the glue may react poorly to any water if it isn't exterior rated. The inner layers of the plywood may have voids ... as the hatch boards are not structural nor being bent small voids isn't much of an issue.
If you wish to give it a try epoxy the edges. If any voids along the edges fill the gaps with thickened epoxy. The edge are where water will easily enter the layers and delam the plywood and rot the wood. The outer surfaces finish how you like. If you accidentally put a gash in the teak veneer epoxy the spot soonest as water will get into the layers (with problems as noted above for the edges).
IMO that plywood will have a limited lifespan depending upon how much water (or even high humidity) gets into the layers.
:: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new site!
On Thu, Jan 28, 2021, 7:22 AM Paul Baker <avalonjazz@gmail.com> wrote:
I have located a 4 X 8 Sheet of Teak Plywood, but it is not marine grade. If I use teak oil, I'm wondering if it will be okay. Does anyone have an opinion on this? Thanks, Paul
On Wed, Jan 27, 2021 at 7:41 PM John Schinnerer via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Yeah 12mm of whatever kind of wood is a wee bit less than 1/2" - .47" in decimal. It fits easily but not too sloppy in my M17 slots even after glassing one side.
cheers, John
On 1/27/21 4:32 PM, jerry montgomery wrote:
Original boards were a bit larger than 3/8"; some 1/2 will fit but barely. With 1/2, you might need to put a slight bevel on the outside top so the slider will drop over it.
jerry
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
I used solid lumber rather than plywood for the hatch boards on my M23. I'm very pleased with them. The boat lives in a slip on the Oregon coast for 3/4 of the year in all kinds of weather. I made the hatch boards at least 10 years ago. I simply routered the edges sufficiently for them to slide easily behind the companionway cleats. The nominal thickness of the material was 1". I pretty sure the wood is mahogany, but I don't remember for certain. Mark Dvorscak M23 Faith M15 BC On Thu, Jan 28, 2021, 10:53 Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Paul:
Do two coats of epoxy. The second just as the first coat gets very sticky but and not hard.
After epoxy wipe of blush with water. Wipe again. Let epoxy cure a full week and twice again wipe with water. Then apply seven coats of varnish. If the epoxy isn't fully cured and blush completely removed the varnish will never harden.
If boards are a tight fit in the companionway, meaning in the grove behind the teak keepers (called cleats), as Jerry mentioned take off some of the hatchboard material at the edges. After all the coats of epoxy and varnish you don't want the boards sticking.
:: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new site!
On Thu, Jan 28, 2021, 10:25 AM Paul Baker <avalonjazz@gmail.com> wrote:
Thanks Dave, I use West Systems a lot. I think I will coat the boards and put some UV satin varnish on them. That way the entire thing should be pretty waterproof. I would have rather used teak oil like on the rest of the trim, but I want the boards to last. I like the way teak oil looks more. It will be more work up front, but then I can forget about it. I'm also going to make a separate lower board for my compass when I'm sailing. Thanks for your input. Paul
On Thu, Jan 28, 2021 at 8:20 AM Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Paul:
The issue is the glue may react poorly to any water if it isn't exterior rated. The inner layers of the plywood may have voids ... as the hatch boards are not structural nor being bent small voids isn't much of an issue.
If you wish to give it a try epoxy the edges. If any voids along the edges fill the gaps with thickened epoxy. The edge are where water will easily enter the layers and delam the plywood and rot the wood. The outer surfaces finish how you like. If you accidentally put a gash in the teak veneer epoxy the spot soonest as water will get into the layers (with problems as noted above for the edges).
IMO that plywood will have a limited lifespan depending upon how much water (or even high humidity) gets into the layers.
:: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new site!
On Thu, Jan 28, 2021, 7:22 AM Paul Baker <avalonjazz@gmail.com> wrote:
I have located a 4 X 8 Sheet of Teak Plywood, but it is not marine grade. If I use teak oil, I'm wondering if it will be okay. Does anyone have an opinion on this? Thanks, Paul
On Wed, Jan 27, 2021 at 7:41 PM John Schinnerer via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Yeah 12mm of whatever kind of wood is a wee bit less than 1/2" - .47" in decimal. It fits easily but not too sloppy in my M17 slots even after glassing one side.
cheers, John
On 1/27/21 4:32 PM, jerry montgomery wrote:
Original boards were a bit larger than 3/8"; some 1/2 will fit but barely. With 1/2, you might need to put a slight bevel on the outside top so the slider will drop over it.
jerry
I agree with Mark on using solid wood. I used mahogany to make my hatches for Seaweeble. I just routered the edges and they’re still sliding easily after several years. If you don’t want to spring for teak or mahogany you could try ipe ( yes, i-p-e). It’s very dense and cheaper than teak and very strong. It should work well also. Ian M-17 Seaweeble M-15 Judi B Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10 From: Mark Dvorscak<mailto:mdvorscak56@gmail.com> Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2021 11:30 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats<mailto:montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Marine plywood - hatch boards I used solid lumber rather than plywood for the hatch boards on my M23. I'm very pleased with them. The boat lives in a slip on the Oregon coast for 3/4 of the year in all kinds of weather. I made the hatch boards at least 10 years ago. I simply routered the edges sufficiently for them to slide easily behind the companionway cleats. The nominal thickness of the material was 1". I pretty sure the wood is mahogany, but I don't remember for certain. Mark Dvorscak M23 Faith M15 BC On Thu, Jan 28, 2021, 10:53 Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Paul:
Do two coats of epoxy. The second just as the first coat gets very sticky but and not hard.
After epoxy wipe of blush with water. Wipe again. Let epoxy cure a full week and twice again wipe with water. Then apply seven coats of varnish. If the epoxy isn't fully cured and blush completely removed the varnish will never harden.
If boards are a tight fit in the companionway, meaning in the grove behind the teak keepers (called cleats), as Jerry mentioned take off some of the hatchboard material at the edges. After all the coats of epoxy and varnish you don't want the boards sticking.
:: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new site!
On Thu, Jan 28, 2021, 10:25 AM Paul Baker <avalonjazz@gmail.com> wrote:
Thanks Dave, I use West Systems a lot. I think I will coat the boards and put some UV satin varnish on them. That way the entire thing should be pretty waterproof. I would have rather used teak oil like on the rest of the trim, but I want the boards to last. I like the way teak oil looks more. It will be more work up front, but then I can forget about it. I'm also going to make a separate lower board for my compass when I'm sailing. Thanks for your input. Paul
On Thu, Jan 28, 2021 at 8:20 AM Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Paul:
The issue is the glue may react poorly to any water if it isn't exterior rated. The inner layers of the plywood may have voids ... as the hatch boards are not structural nor being bent small voids isn't much of an issue.
If you wish to give it a try epoxy the edges. If any voids along the edges fill the gaps with thickened epoxy. The edge are where water will easily enter the layers and delam the plywood and rot the wood. The outer surfaces finish how you like. If you accidentally put a gash in the teak veneer epoxy the spot soonest as water will get into the layers (with problems as noted above for the edges).
IMO that plywood will have a limited lifespan depending upon how much water (or even high humidity) gets into the layers.
:: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new site!
On Thu, Jan 28, 2021, 7:22 AM Paul Baker <avalonjazz@gmail.com> wrote:
I have located a 4 X 8 Sheet of Teak Plywood, but it is not marine grade. If I use teak oil, I'm wondering if it will be okay. Does anyone have an opinion on this? Thanks, Paul
On Wed, Jan 27, 2021 at 7:41 PM John Schinnerer via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Yeah 12mm of whatever kind of wood is a wee bit less than 1/2" - .47" in decimal. It fits easily but not too sloppy in my M17 slots even after glassing one side.
cheers, John
On 1/27/21 4:32 PM, jerry montgomery wrote:
Original boards were a bit larger than 3/8"; some 1/2 will fit but barely. With 1/2, you might need to put a slight bevel on the outside top so the slider will drop over it.
jerry
The reason I need to make new boards is because I tossed the original ones after making beautiful solid teak boards. They warped, even after I glued them up properly according to the grain. Plywood is generally more stable than solid. You guys got lucky. Paul On Fri, Jan 29, 2021, 7:09 AM Ian Black <seaweeble@hotmail.com> wrote:
I agree with Mark on using solid wood. I used mahogany to make my hatches for Seaweeble. I just routered the edges and they’re still sliding easily after several years. If you don’t want to spring for teak or mahogany you could try ipe ( yes, i-p-e). It’s very dense and cheaper than teak and very strong. It should work well also. Ian M-17 Seaweeble M-15 Judi B
Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10
From: Mark Dvorscak<mailto:mdvorscak56@gmail.com> Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2021 11:30 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats<mailto: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Marine plywood - hatch boards
I used solid lumber rather than plywood for the hatch boards on my M23. I'm very pleased with them. The boat lives in a slip on the Oregon coast for 3/4 of the year in all kinds of weather. I made the hatch boards at least 10 years ago. I simply routered the edges sufficiently for them to slide easily behind the companionway cleats. The nominal thickness of the material was 1". I pretty sure the wood is mahogany, but I don't remember for certain. Mark Dvorscak M23 Faith M15 BC
On Thu, Jan 28, 2021, 10:53 Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Paul:
Do two coats of epoxy. The second just as the first coat gets very sticky but and not hard.
After epoxy wipe of blush with water. Wipe again. Let epoxy cure a full week and twice again wipe with water. Then apply seven coats of varnish. If the epoxy isn't fully cured and blush completely removed the varnish will never harden.
If boards are a tight fit in the companionway, meaning in the grove behind the teak keepers (called cleats), as Jerry mentioned take off some of the hatchboard material at the edges. After all the coats of epoxy and varnish you don't want the boards sticking.
:: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new site!
On Thu, Jan 28, 2021, 10:25 AM Paul Baker <avalonjazz@gmail.com> wrote:
Thanks Dave, I use West Systems a lot. I think I will coat the boards and put some UV satin varnish on them. That way the entire thing should be pretty waterproof. I would have rather used teak oil like on the rest of the trim, but I want the boards to last. I like the way teak oil looks more. It will be more work up front, but then I can forget about it. I'm also going to make a separate lower board for my compass when I'm sailing. Thanks for your input. Paul
On Thu, Jan 28, 2021 at 8:20 AM Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Paul:
The issue is the glue may react poorly to any water if it isn't exterior rated. The inner layers of the plywood may have voids ... as the hatch boards are not structural nor being bent small voids isn't much of an issue.
If you wish to give it a try epoxy the edges. If any voids along the edges fill the gaps with thickened epoxy. The edge are where water will easily enter the layers and delam the plywood and rot the wood. The outer surfaces finish how you like. If you accidentally put a gash in the teak veneer epoxy the spot soonest as water will get into the layers (with problems as noted above for the edges).
IMO that plywood will have a limited lifespan depending upon how much water (or even high humidity) gets into the layers.
:: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new site!
On Thu, Jan 28, 2021, 7:22 AM Paul Baker <avalonjazz@gmail.com> wrote:
I have located a 4 X 8 Sheet of Teak Plywood, but it is not marine grade. If I use teak oil, I'm wondering if it will be okay. Does anyone have an opinion on this? Thanks, Paul
On Wed, Jan 27, 2021 at 7:41 PM John Schinnerer via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Yeah 12mm of whatever kind of wood is a wee bit less than 1/2" - .47" in decimal. It fits easily but not too sloppy in my M17 slots even after glassing one side.
cheers, John
On 1/27/21 4:32 PM, jerry montgomery wrote: > Original boards were a bit larger than 3/8"; some 1/2 will fit but > barely. With 1/2, you might need to put a slight bevel on the outside > top so the slider will drop over it. > > jerry
Paul: Yeah I know what you mean by warping solid teak hatchboards. I had a beautiful set made by JOWoodworks for my M17. I also had a set made of marine plywood. The plywood were for when 'boat in storage'. I used the teak when cruising. During my 10+ week liveaboard stretch in 2018 the boards slowly warped from the occasional rain, morning dew and constant humidity. I was constantly sanding the board's ends fit behind the companionway's grove. If I had kept SWEET PEA my plan was to but some stainless steel bars (stringers) on the back side of the boards to keep them from warping. SWALLOW, my boat/home also has solid wood companionway boards. One of the two warps with the temperature: warmer it is more warping. :: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new site! On Fri, Jan 29, 2021, 10:00 AM Paul Baker <avalonjazz@gmail.com> wrote:
The reason I need to make new boards is because I tossed the original ones after making beautiful solid teak boards. They warped, even after I glued them up properly according to the grain. Plywood is generally more stable than solid. You guys got lucky. Paul
On Fri, Jan 29, 2021, 7:09 AM Ian Black <seaweeble@hotmail.com> wrote:
I agree with Mark on using solid wood. I used mahogany to make my hatches for Seaweeble. I just routered the edges and they’re still sliding easily after several years. If you don’t want to spring for teak or mahogany you could try ipe ( yes, i-p-e). It’s very dense and cheaper than teak and very strong. It should work well also. Ian M-17 Seaweeble M-15 Judi B
Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10
From: Mark Dvorscak<mailto:mdvorscak56@gmail.com> Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2021 11:30 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats<mailto: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Marine plywood - hatch boards
I used solid lumber rather than plywood for the hatch boards on my M23. I'm very pleased with them. The boat lives in a slip on the Oregon coast for 3/4 of the year in all kinds of weather. I made the hatch boards at least 10 years ago. I simply routered the edges sufficiently for them to slide easily behind the companionway cleats. The nominal thickness of the material was 1". I pretty sure the wood is mahogany, but I don't remember for certain. Mark Dvorscak M23 Faith M15 BC
I even have nice stiffening pieces on the inside of the doors, but it wasn't enough. When I take the cover off my boat soon, I'll post pics of them. I was very disappointed after spending my time and effort. . On Fri, Jan 29, 2021, 10:14 AM Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Paul:
Yeah I know what you mean by warping solid teak hatchboards. I had a beautiful set made by JOWoodworks for my M17. I also had a set made of marine plywood. The plywood were for when 'boat in storage'. I used the teak when cruising. During my 10+ week liveaboard stretch in 2018 the boards slowly warped from the occasional rain, morning dew and constant humidity. I was constantly sanding the board's ends fit behind the companionway's grove.
If I had kept SWEET PEA my plan was to but some stainless steel bars (stringers) on the back side of the boards to keep them from warping.
SWALLOW, my boat/home also has solid wood companionway boards. One of the two warps with the temperature: warmer it is more warping.
:: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new site!
On Fri, Jan 29, 2021, 10:00 AM Paul Baker <avalonjazz@gmail.com> wrote:
The reason I need to make new boards is because I tossed the original ones after making beautiful solid teak boards. They warped, even after I glued them up properly according to the grain. Plywood is generally more stable than solid. You guys got lucky. Paul
On Fri, Jan 29, 2021, 7:09 AM Ian Black <seaweeble@hotmail.com> wrote:
I agree with Mark on using solid wood. I used mahogany to make my hatches for Seaweeble. I just routered the edges and they’re still sliding easily after several years. If you don’t want to spring for teak or mahogany you could try ipe ( yes, i-p-e). It’s very dense and cheaper than teak and very strong. It should work well also. Ian M-17 Seaweeble M-15 Judi B
Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10
From: Mark Dvorscak<mailto:mdvorscak56@gmail.com> Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2021 11:30 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats<mailto: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Marine plywood - hatch boards
I used solid lumber rather than plywood for the hatch boards on my M23. I'm very pleased with them. The boat lives in a slip on the Oregon coast for 3/4 of the year in all kinds of weather. I made the hatch boards at least 10 years ago. I simply routered the edges sufficiently for them to slide easily behind the companionway cleats. The nominal thickness of the material was 1". I pretty sure the wood is mahogany, but I don't remember for certain. Mark Dvorscak M23 Faith M15 BC
To all you ‘DIY’ captains. Has anyone fashioned hatch boards using a panel door method? I’m wondering if the alternating grain of the rails and stiles along with the panel(s) would create the needed stability to avoid warping? Any thoughts or first hand experiences? ~Skip <Sent from my iPhone>
On Jan 29, 2021, at 1:14 PM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Paul:
Yeah I know what you mean by warping solid teak hatchboards. I had a beautiful set made by JOWoodworks for my M17. I also had a set made of marine plywood. The plywood were for when 'boat in storage'. I used the teak when cruising. During my 10+ week liveaboard stretch in 2018 the boards slowly warped from the occasional rain, morning dew and constant humidity. I was constantly sanding the board's ends fit behind the companionway's grove.
If I had kept SWEET PEA my plan was to but some stainless steel bars (stringers) on the back side of the boards to keep them from warping.
SWALLOW, my boat/home also has solid wood companionway boards. One of the two warps with the temperature: warmer it is more warping.
:: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new site!
On Fri, Jan 29, 2021, 10:00 AM Paul Baker <avalonjazz@gmail.com> wrote:
The reason I need to make new boards is because I tossed the original ones after making beautiful solid teak boards. They warped, even after I glued them up properly according to the grain. Plywood is generally more stable than solid. You guys got lucky. Paul
On Fri, Jan 29, 2021, 7:09 AM Ian Black <seaweeble@hotmail.com> wrote:
I agree with Mark on using solid wood. I used mahogany to make my hatches for Seaweeble. I just routered the edges and they’re still sliding easily after several years. If you don’t want to spring for teak or mahogany you could try ipe ( yes, i-p-e). It’s very dense and cheaper than teak and very strong. It should work well also. Ian M-17 Seaweeble M-15 Judi B
Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10
From: Mark Dvorscak<mailto:mdvorscak56@gmail.com> Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2021 11:30 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats<mailto: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Marine plywood - hatch boards
I used solid lumber rather than plywood for the hatch boards on my M23. I'm very pleased with them. The boat lives in a slip on the Oregon coast for 3/4 of the year in all kinds of weather. I made the hatch boards at least 10 years ago. I simply routered the edges sufficiently for them to slide easily behind the companionway cleats. The nominal thickness of the material was 1". I pretty sure the wood is mahogany, but I don't remember for certain. Mark Dvorscak M23 Faith M15 BC
Skip. The Sage 17s use such a design: teak frame (4-piece) and plexiglass centers. Picture attached. The frame was actually eight pieces: 4 large frames with 'biscuts' strengthening the joints and increasing epoxed surface area (teak doesn't like to be glued). :: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new site! On Fri, Jan 29, 2021, 11:47 AM William Campion via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
To all you ‘DIY’ captains. Has anyone fashioned hatch boards using a panel door method? I’m wondering if the alternating grain of the rails and stiles along with the panel(s) would create the needed stability to avoid warping? Any thoughts or first hand experiences?
~Skip <Sent from my iPhone>
Skip and others: Found the information on how the Sage 17 'panel door' hatches were made! Two links below show the process - https://sagemarineblog.wordpress.com/2015/02/09/making-drop-in-hatches-for-s... https://sagemarineblog.wordpress.com/2015/03/02/finishing-up-the-drop-hatch/ :: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new site! On Fri, Jan 29, 2021, 12:12 PM Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Skip.
The Sage 17s use such a design: teak frame (4-piece) and plexiglass centers. Picture attached.
The frame was actually eight pieces: 4 large frames with 'biscuts' strengthening the joints and increasing epoxed surface area (teak doesn't like to be glued).
:: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new site!
On Fri, Jan 29, 2021, 11:47 AM William Campion via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
To all you ‘DIY’ captains. Has anyone fashioned hatch boards using a panel door method? I’m wondering if the alternating grain of the rails and stiles along with the panel(s) would create the needed stability to avoid warping? Any thoughts or first hand experiences?
~Skip <Sent from my iPhone>
I haven't made hatch boards that way, but in terms of wood assemblies, you could creates something less likely to warp, yes. When using plywood, the more plies in your required thickness the better. I wouldn't use anything less than 5-ply, and 7 or 9 is better if available. Normally you need to go to a quality wood supplier (type that sells hardwoods and cabinet grade plywoods and/or marine grade plywoods) to get this. It's not available, except maybe in small panels like 2'x2', at big box building supply. cheers, John On 1/29/21 11:46 AM, William Campion via montgomery_boats wrote:
To all you ‘DIY’ captains. Has anyone fashioned hatch boards using a panel door method? I’m wondering if the alternating grain of the rails and stiles along with the panel(s) would create the needed stability to avoid warping? Any thoughts or first hand experiences?
~Skip <Sent from my iPhone>
On Jan 29, 2021, at 1:14 PM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Paul:
Yeah I know what you mean by warping solid teak hatchboards. I had a beautiful set made by JOWoodworks for my M17. I also had a set made of marine plywood. The plywood were for when 'boat in storage'. I used the teak when cruising. During my 10+ week liveaboard stretch in 2018 the boards slowly warped from the occasional rain, morning dew and constant humidity. I was constantly sanding the board's ends fit behind the companionway's grove.
If I had kept SWEET PEA my plan was to but some stainless steel bars (stringers) on the back side of the boards to keep them from warping.
SWALLOW, my boat/home also has solid wood companionway boards. One of the two warps with the temperature: warmer it is more warping.
:: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new site!
On Fri, Jan 29, 2021, 10:00 AM Paul Baker <avalonjazz@gmail.com> wrote:
The reason I need to make new boards is because I tossed the original ones after making beautiful solid teak boards. They warped, even after I glued them up properly according to the grain. Plywood is generally more stable than solid. You guys got lucky. Paul
On Fri, Jan 29, 2021, 7:09 AM Ian Black <seaweeble@hotmail.com> wrote:
I agree with Mark on using solid wood. I used mahogany to make my hatches for Seaweeble. I just routered the edges and they’re still sliding easily after several years. If you don’t want to spring for teak or mahogany you could try ipe ( yes, i-p-e). It’s very dense and cheaper than teak and very strong. It should work well also. Ian M-17 Seaweeble M-15 Judi B
Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10
From: Mark Dvorscak<mailto:mdvorscak56@gmail.com> Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2021 11:30 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats<mailto: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Marine plywood - hatch boards
I used solid lumber rather than plywood for the hatch boards on my M23. I'm very pleased with them. The boat lives in a slip on the Oregon coast for 3/4 of the year in all kinds of weather. I made the hatch boards at least 10 years ago. I simply routered the edges sufficiently for them to slide easily behind the companionway cleats. The nominal thickness of the material was 1". I pretty sure the wood is mahogany, but I don't remember for certain. Mark Dvorscak M23 Faith M15 BC
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
Yeah, I made a beautiful set from solid mahogany and the bottom board warped badly. I made a new set by laminating two layers of cheap 3/16” Luan underlayment plywood from the box store. They are well encased in epoxy and varnish. I added teak louvers from eBay for ventilation and hardwood battens for the lap joints between the panels. It may seem that they can’t last long using such cheap wood but a similar set I made for my other boat are well over 15 years old. I think the epoxy is the key to longevity. Henry Monita On Fri, Jan 29, 2021 at 12:00 PM Paul Baker <avalonjazz@gmail.com> wrote:
The reason I need to make new boards is because I tossed the original ones after making beautiful solid teak boards. They warped, even after I glued them up properly according to the grain. Plywood is generally more stable than solid. You guys got lucky. Paul
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the thing I like about this Silva is that you can remove it from its friction grip mounting. This grip also allows you to rotate it and position it's axis accurately for the axis of the boat. You can mark the rotational position thru gaps in the mounting bracket. Roger Sent from my BlackBerry - the most secure mobile device - via the Rogers Network Original Message From: jimsadler@jascopacific.com Sent: January 25, 2021 8:48 PM To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Reply-to: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Subject: M_Boats: Bulkhead compass Any suggestions for M15? Size? Brand? Thanks Capt Jim SV Pelican Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>
participants (17)
-
Bob Eeg -
Dave Scobie -
Douglas Kelch -
Henry Rodriguez -
Ian Black -
jerry montgomery -
Jim Poulakis -
Jim Sadler -
John Schinnerer -
Mark Dvorscak -
Paul Baker -
Peter Zimowsky -
Roger Langmaid -
Sailing Spark -
Thomas Buzzi -
wcampion＠aol.com -
William Campion