Hello, The varnish on my M-17 rudder is starting to peel off, especially at the leading edge. Did anyone here revarnish theirs? Do I need to remove the old varnish first and then recoat it? What materials have people used? How many coats are needed? The rudder will spend its time out of the water when boat is not sailed. Thanks, Andrei.
Andrei, Having stripped all the varnish off a NS27 I found the best way was to use a heat gun and scraper. I found it was the only thing that would get into all the nooks and crannies. And God knows, the NS has plenty of them. Hold the heat gun at a 45degree angle with your left hand and just as it starts pin size bubbles scrape it off with the scraper in your right hand. As you scrape, heat up the next area. Once you get the hang of it you will get into a rythym. Concentrate on where the hot end of the heat gun is pointed while you scrape. It can be very easy to be melting something with your left hand while the right hand is scraping. Use a scraper no more than 1 1/2" to 2" wide. That sounds small but the heat gun won't make a wider path to scrape and you need to scrape just at the moment it begins to bubble. Don't worry, you won't burn the wood. Just pick a time when you have some good concentration. Sand it with 180 grit and finish off with 220 grit. To give you an idea of how much time it should take, I had a lazarette cover that was about the same size as the M17 rudder. It had multiple aging coatsof orangy thick Cetol. It took me less than two hours from start to finish. What you use for the varnish is subject to lots of discussion. Perhaps others on the group will offer some good advice especially for the rudder. I used Bristol Finish for all the teak on my previous NS27. It wears like iron but I don't know how it would do on the rudder especially with dings on the leading edge. Have fun. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrei Caldararu" <andreic@math.wisc.edu> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2008 10:35 AM Subject: M_Boats: Revarnish rudder?
Hello,
The varnish on my M-17 rudder is starting to peel off, especially at the leading edge. Did anyone here revarnish theirs? Do I need to remove the old varnish first and then recoat it? What materials have people used? How many coats are needed? The rudder will spend its time out of the water when boat is not sailed.
Thanks,
Andrei.
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Has anyone ever used bronze edging on the leading edge of the rudder? Something similar to a rub rail? Just a thought of how to give it some additional protection. Just a swag. Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrei Caldararu" <andreic@math.wisc.edu> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2008 10:35 AM Subject: M_Boats: Revarnish rudder?
Hello,
The varnish on my M-17 rudder is starting to peel off, especially at the leading edge. Did anyone here revarnish theirs? Do I need to remove the old varnish first and then recoat it? What materials have people used? How many coats are needed? The rudder will spend its time out of the water when boat is not sailed.
Thanks,
Andrei.
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The rudder on my M17 is sheathed below the waterline with a layer of fiberglass with a double layer on the leading edge. The area above the waterline is painted white to match the hull and the underwater part has bottom paint. The previous owner (my Brother) kept the boat in a slip with the rudder in place and it has held up very well. Ron M17 #14 Griselda
From: seagray@embarqmail.com> To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 11:33:05 -0400> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Revarnish rudder?> > Has anyone ever used bronze edging on the leading edge of the rudder? > Something similar to a rub rail? Just a thought of how to give it some > additional protection. Just a swag.> Joe> ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Andrei Caldararu" <andreic@math.wisc.edu>> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" > <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com>> Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2008 10:35 AM> Subject: M_Boats: Revarnish rudder?> > > > Hello,> >> > The varnish on my M-17 rudder is starting to peel off, especially at> > the leading edge. Did anyone here revarnish theirs? Do I need to> > remove the old varnish first and then recoat it? What materials have> > people used? How many coats are needed? The rudder will spend its time> > out of the water when boat is not sailed.> >> > Thanks,> >> > Andrei.> >> >> > _______________________________________________> > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats> > > > > _______________________________________________> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
It’s a talkathon – but it’s not just talk. http://www.imtalkathon.com/?source=EML_WLH_Talkathon_JustTalk
Hi Joe, When I had my M15 at a local Connecticut lake, the lake water level could vary significantly. When it was very low, the bottom of my rudder would be digging in the bottom mud because of powerboat wakes / wind. I couldn't raise the rudder because it would then stick out into the path of passing boats. This degraded the bottom of the rudder, so I decided to correct the problem and add some armor plating to the lower area and the leading edge of the rudder. I totally stripped the rudder of it's varnish. Then I corrected leading , bottom, and trailing edge dings and dents by cutting out the affected areas and epoxy gluing in "dutchmen" which were then reshaped to the proper rudder contours. A "dutchmen" is just a piece of wood (mahogany in this case) which you glue in place to correct the defect. With all problems corrected; profiles re-established; and sanded, I then covered the lower 1/3rd of the rudder with fiberglass cloth (double layer on the bottom edge - the most vulnerable part for me) and added a piece of fiberglass tape up the leading edge of the rudder (using WEST epoxy products; resins and fillers). When it had all hardened, I trimmed the excess fiberglass cloth, and added another coat of epoxy to fill the pores in the cloth. Then I faired and sanded the fiberglass edges so that the whole rudder was smooth. I used bottom paint on the lower part of the rudder, a white boot top stripe, and varnish on the area above the waterline. That made a bulletproof rudder, and all additional mud / bottom grinding did was to take off the anti-fouling paint, but it didn't damage the bottom of the rudder in the least. Connie ex M15 #400 LEPPO Joe Murphy wrote:
Has anyone ever used bronze edging on the leading edge of the rudder? Something similar to a rub rail? Just a thought of how to give it some additional protection. Just a swag. Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrei Caldararu" <andreic@math.wisc.edu> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2008 10:35 AM Subject: M_Boats: Revarnish rudder?
Hello,
The varnish on my M-17 rudder is starting to peel off, especially at the leading edge. Did anyone here revarnish theirs? Do I need to remove the old varnish first and then recoat it? What materials have people used? How many coats are needed? The rudder will spend its time out of the water when boat is not sailed.
Thanks,
Andrei.
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Perhaps some of you have used Interprotect 2000E barrier coat and can answer a couple of questions.? The literature itself seems self-contradictory, and also doesn't jibe with what I'm experiencing. As part of an extensive gelcoat blister repair, I'm using Interprotect 2000E (over Epiglass), on top of which I'd like to finish up with Fiberglass Bottomkote ACT antifouling. A lot is made of overcoating the Interprotect with antifouling when it is slightly tacky (using the "thumbprint" test), but I'm finding that each coat is already touch dry by the end of the roughly 1/2 hour it takes to apply a coat to my M15.? Curiously, the next coat of Interprotect can go on in 3-5 hours (depending on ambient temperature), or as much as 2 weeks later, without sanding. Interlux's own FAQ list tells of the dire consequences of applying antifouling paint after the "tacky" stage of the underlying Interprotect coat.? (The consequences are, the antifouling won't stick for long.)? And yet even if I immediately began applying the antifouling coat after applying the final coat of Interprotect, it wouldn't be a wet-into-wet (or wet-into-tacky) situation.? It would be "too late," to use Interlux's words.? The Interprotect simply dries too quickly.? (I'm working in temperatures ranging from 70 to 90 degrees -- undeniably, the drying time is greatly shortened as the day heats up.) Yet Interlux's own charts specify that the minimum overcoating time -- putting Fiberglass Bottomkote ACT over Interprotect -- is 5 hours at 73 degrees and 3 hours at 95 degrees.??So immediately following up with the first?ACT coat would flout these minimums -- and yet?either of these is hours past the "thumbprint" stage. Finally, let's assume that it IS "too late" to overcoat wet-into-tacky.? The only references to "what next?" that I can find are advisories that you have to remove everything and start over.? Is it not possible to let the Interprotect cure, then sand it with 80-grit (judiciously -- obviously you don't want to thin down the Interprotect barrier coat), and apply an antifouling bottom?coat? Any insights or advices would be greatly appreciated.
participants (5)
-
Andrei Caldararu -
chbenneck＠sbcglobal.net -
Joe Murphy -
paint4real＠aol.com -
Ronnie Keeler