M15 Centerboard Pivot Question
Thanks to everyone who replied with suggestions or sympathy about my centerboard problem. The prize for most creative solution definitely goes to Dale -- Dale, it sounds like you really earned it! I almost split my sides trying to visualize three fat farmboys hanging off of a trailer, pinned to the bottom of a boat being suspended in the air by tractors. Well anyway, I have an update: I went back to the boat again, and instead of curses, tried sweet-talking it (along with a little gentle prying on the far aft edge/tip of the centerboard. It came out an inch or two at first, then all they way. Down also came a quantity of substance that appeared to be composted leaves and bugs (or some such brown awful looking crap). Now, I can raise and lower the board all day, within an inch of full retracted position, but if I retract it that LAST INCH (which I would need to do to put it on the trailer) it gets stuck, won't come down without prying again. I'd like to really clean out the centerboard slot, which would probably be best done without the board there, So I'm thinking of just removing it. On my M15, there is just what appears to be a standard galvanized or stainless, maybe 1/2 inch carriage bolt through the keel which the board pivots on. On the port side, there is just the bolt-end sticking out, with a nut on it. I'm wondering -- is that what most people have for a pivot pin? Or was mine replaced at one time, perhaps persuant to some damage? Seems to me I remember someone mentioning once that their pivot pin was epoxied in, and completely flush with the keel on both sides. Just wondering how most people's is. I'm just planning to remove the pin and drop the board out (gently of course, with due regard for it's weight). I'm not expecting any surprises. Should I? For you all who have done this, am I forgetting something? I have to say -- the talk recently about casting a bronze centerboard (this was for the M17 I believe) sounds pretty attractive. If it's true that older M15 boards have a tendency to swell up and become non functional, I would think there might be a market for a bronze replacement. I know I'd consider it. It would be quite an upgrade, adding even more weight where it really counts, impervious to water, and foil-shaped better than what you'd get with plate steel, say. It's a beautiful sunny day, with highs in the low 40s in Chicago today, blowing 10 knots from SSE -- Lake Michigan water temperature around 36 degrees. Sailing season is right around the corner! -- Steve McClellan M15 #152 Evanston, Illinois
Steve: I am happy to hear that your board came down without much problem! When I took mine out, it had a 3/8 inch stainless pin with the ends epoxied over. I just tapped the pin out and board dropped out. Dale
Steve, My comments are below your observations. --- "Steve McClellan (at Home)" <stevemc35@attbi.com> wrote:
Now, I can raise and lower the board all day, within an inch of full retracted position, but if I retract it that LAST INCH (which I would need to do to put it on the trailer) it gets stuck, won't come down without prying again.
The new board I got from would also not go up the last inch without getting stuck. My M15 is #310, 1984 and believe there has been some swelling on the centerboard trunk near the top. I did have to grind off a little gelcoat with belt sander on both sides to get it to fit. Unfortunately I took a little too much off and it gets wedged in somehow if I trailer it with the centerboard weight on the pendant. If I trailer with the the pendant loose there is no problem. Clean the well out first and if it still sticks, grind away, repaint any exposed metal from the grinding.
I'm wondering -- is that what most people have for a pivot pin? Or was mine replaced at one time, perhaps persuant to some damage?
The oringinal M15s came with a stainless steel pin that is just some gelcoat away from the surface on both sides. The pin will vibrate through the gel coat if you do a lot of trailering. Since my old board never retracted all the way this put some of the boat weight on the centerboard pin while trailering. I think this contributed a lot to the loosening of the pin. The pin on mine is orginal even though I lost the board while sailing. The pin was only in the hole by an inch when I swam under the boat. I epoxied it in and it came loose, I used boat life to dampen the vibration effects and it came loose. I now use sail repair tape over both sides of the CB trunk and have not had the problem. A nut on the end of the bolt works fine, just adds a little drag.
I'm just planning to remove the pin and drop the board out (gently of course, with due regard for it's weight). I'm not expecting any surprises. Should I? For you all who have done this, am I forgetting something? If the boat is too high off the ground you can't rest the aft end of the board on the ground while you line up the pin to replace it. It's amazing how heavy an awkward shaped 35 lb board gets when trying for alignment. The weight is a ways back from the hole you are trying to look trough. The corallary is that if the boat is too low to the ground you cannot tilt the board out of the slot. The rear of the board is around 18 inchs + tall.
Doug Kelch "Seas the Day" M15 #310 Formerly of Peoria, Ill __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/
Steve, Before I went to all that work, I would try putting the boat in the water and my bet is that will loosen a lot of the debris that's in there. Also, raise and lower the board a few times within whatever range it operates freely to create some washing action in the trunk. Then, go ahead and raise the board all the way and, holding the pendant so the board won't go crashing into the pin, try jumping on the cabin sole (I assume the M15 pendant is inside the cabin as it is on the M-17 -- if not, jump on the sole where the pendant is). That jarring action will likely bring the board down. If not, dive on it and pry it out as you already have done. REpeat a few times and you will most likely wind up with a perfectly operating Cb in a clean trunk. Dan
"Steve McClellan (at Home)" wrote:
Thanks to everyone who replied with suggestions or sympathy about my centerboard problem. The prize for most creative solution definitely goes to Dale -- Dale, it sounds like you really earned it! I almost split my sides trying to visualize three fat farmboys hanging off of a trailer, pinned to the bottom of a boat being suspended in the air by tractors.
Well anyway, I have an update: I went back to the boat again, and instead of curses, tried sweet-talking it (along with a little gentle prying on the far aft edge/tip of the centerboard. It came out an inch or two at first, then all they way. Down also came a quantity of substance that appeared to be composted leaves and bugs (or some such brown awful looking crap).
Now, I can raise and lower the board all day, within an inch of full retracted position, but if I retract it that LAST INCH (which I would need to do to put it on the trailer) it gets stuck, won't come down without prying again.
I'd like to really clean out the centerboard slot, which would probably be best done without the board there, So I'm thinking of just removing it.
On my M15, there is just what appears to be a standard galvanized or stainless, maybe 1/2 inch carriage bolt through the keel which the board pivots on. On the port side, there is just the bolt-end sticking out, with a nut on it.
I'm wondering -- is that what most people have for a pivot pin? Or was mine replaced at one time, perhaps persuant to some damage? Seems to me I remember someone mentioning once that their pivot pin was epoxied in, and completely flush with the keel on both sides. Just wondering how most people's is.
I'm just planning to remove the pin and drop the board out (gently of course, with due regard for it's weight). I'm not expecting any surprises. Should I? For you all who have done this, am I forgetting something?
I have to say -- the talk recently about casting a bronze centerboard (this was for the M17 I believe) sounds pretty attractive. If it's true that older M15 boards have a tendency to swell up and become non functional, I would think there might be a market for a bronze replacement. I know I'd consider it. It would be quite an upgrade, adding even more weight where it really counts, impervious to water, and foil-shaped better than what you'd get with plate steel, say.
It's a beautiful sunny day, with highs in the low 40s in Chicago today, blowing 10 knots from SSE -- Lake Michigan water temperature around 36 degrees. Sailing season is right around the corner!
-- Steve McClellan M15 #152 Evanston, Illinois
participants (4)
-
Dale Williams -
Dan White -
Doug Kelch -
Steve McClellan (at Home)