I found you don't want to keep the tiller in one place by using rope. Just as sailing with your hand on the tiller, you are always making small changes. The pressure on the tiller changes. That is why I use 2 bonjis on the windward side of the tiller and 1 on the lee and attached by rope on the tiller. If the bow starts to point up wind, the pressure on the tiller is less, so the double bonji will pull it and bring it down. Then the presure builds back on the tiller and counters the bonji. If set up correct, the tiller should be centered, adjust the bonjis to keep it centered. When I jump off the back of the boat, while holding on a rope, the bow would come up at little, pressure comes off the tiller, bonjis pull to straighten the boat. Even with me dragging, the boat just sailed on couse. Sent from my iPad
Mack, Your picture only seems to show one cord on each side. Where is the second on the windward side, and how is it switched when you tack? Is there any provision for a quick release? Thanks, Rick M17 #633 Lynne L On Sat, Jun 30, 2012 at 8:09 AM, Mack Warner <mackwarner007@gmail.com>wrote:
I found you don't want to keep the tiller in one place by using rope. Just as sailing with your hand on the tiller, you are always making small changes. The pressure on the tiller changes. That is why I use 2 bonjis on the windward side of the tiller and 1 on the lee and attached by rope on the tiller. If the bow starts to point up wind, the pressure on the tiller is less, so the double bonji will pull it and bring it down. Then the presure builds back on the tiller and counters the bonji. If set up correct, the tiller should be centered, adjust the bonjis to keep it centered. When I jump off the back of the boat, while holding on a rope, the bow would come up at little, pressure comes off the tiller, bonjis pull to straighten the boat. Even with me dragging, the boat just sailed on couse. Sent from my iPad
Mack: Interesting setup. The whole boat. Lots to learn about rigging and setup from that photo. The video was pretty clear evidence you had that thing pretty well dialed in. Don't believe I've ever seen an M17 rigged as a cutter and flying two headsails. My 1978 M17 is almost an exact twin and I don't have half the stuff on it as you did. About how long and how big or stiff were those bongis (bungees?). They come in a variety of sizes and shapes, from slack and stretchy to stiff as hell. Would lengths of surgical tubing with eyes on the ends work as well? Those are pretty much the standard elastic component for most sheet to tiller setups. On Jun 30, 2012, at 7:09 AM, Mack Warner wrote:
I found you don't want to keep the tiller in one place by using rope. Just as sailing with your hand on the tiller, you are always making small changes. The pressure on the tiller changes. That is why I use 2 bonjis on the windward side of the tiller and 1 on the lee and attached by rope on the tiller. If the bow starts to point up wind, the pressure on the tiller is less, so the double bonji will pull it and bring it down. Then the presure builds back on the tiller and counters the bonji. If set up correct, the tiller should be centered, adjust the bonjis to keep it centered. When I jump off the back of the boat, while holding on a rope, the bow would come up at little, pressure comes off the tiller, bonjis pull to straighten the boat. Even with me dragging, the boat just sailed on couse. Sent from my iPad <image.jpeg>
On 30-Jun-12 11:16 AM, Howard Audsley wrote: Hi Howard, After I found a medical supply store, surgical tubing is all I used. It is nice and stretchy, is available in various diameters, and the medical store may be a lot closer to your home than a WEST store to get some bungee cord. Connie
Mack:
Interesting setup. The whole boat. Lots to learn about rigging and setup from that photo. The video was pretty clear evidence you had that thing pretty well dialed in. Don't believe I've ever seen an M17 rigged as a cutter and flying two headsails. My 1978 M17 is almost an exact twin and I don't have half the stuff on it as you did.
About how long and how big or stiff were those bongis (bungees?). They come in a variety of sizes and shapes, from slack and stretchy to stiff as hell.
Would lengths of surgical tubing with eyes on the ends work as well? Those are pretty much the standard elastic component for most sheet to tiller setups.
On Jun 30, 2012, at 7:09 AM, Mack Warner wrote:
I found you don't want to keep the tiller in one place by using rope. Just as sailing with your hand on the tiller, you are always making small changes. The pressure on the tiller changes. That is why I use 2 bonjis on the windward side of the tiller and 1 on the lee and attached by rope on the tiller. If the bow starts to point up wind, the pressure on the tiller is less, so the double bonji will pull it and bring it down. Then the presure builds back on the tiller and counters the bonji. If set up correct, the tiller should be centered, adjust the bonjis to keep it centered. When I jump off the back of the boat, while holding on a rope, the bow would come up at little, pressure comes off the tiller, bonjis pull to straighten the boat. Even with me dragging, the boat just sailed on couse. Sent from my iPad <image.jpeg>
participants (4)
-
Conbert Benneck -
Howard Audsley -
Mack Warner -
Rick Davies