hello out in Monty Land, I am considering a self furling head sail for my M-17. A couple of things come to mind: do they present any difficulties when rigging and derigging the boat for trailing? Presently, I sail in light winds with a big "Drifter", I assume however that it would not be possible to hank on the drifter if I had a self furling rig. Thanks in advance for the input. Regards..Arnold M-17 "Little Breeze"
Hi Arnold: I have an M17 with a Schaefer Snap Furl. Personally, if I was going to rig and de rig the boat everytime I sail, I would not have furling. I keep my boat in dry storage with mast up. I like the Schaefer and had the CDI on a previous boat. As I recall ou can add the drifter on the CDI since it has a spare halyard. On the snapfurl you would have to rig a new halyard. Good luck whatever you decide. Maria Jorge ----- Original Message ----- From: "Arnold F. Sharpe" <afsharpe@mac.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, October 05, 2007 8:14 PM Subject: M_Boats: (no subject)
hello out in Monty Land, I am considering a self furling head sail for my M-17. A couple of things come to mind: do they present any difficulties when rigging and derigging the boat for trailing? Presently, I sail in light winds with a big "Drifter", I assume however that it would not be possible to hank on the drifter if I had a self furling rig. Thanks in advance for the input.
Regards..Arnold M-17 "Little Breeze"
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Hello all, after putting in a line organizer and repairing the part of the deck that came with the tabernacle I am removing and refinishing the teak loop handles and other removable teak parts. Two questions, should I be using teak oil on these parts or Cetol? What would hold up better and what would be the differences? Also, should I use some 3M 4200 sealant when putting these back or 3M silicone or nothing, as was done previously? Thanks in advance! Robbin
I hear that polysulfide caulks are best for bedding hardware and teak on fiberglass. 5200 breaks down in sun and cracks penetrate into concealed areas. Don't like teak oils -- they always look dull and heavy. Personal preference though. I did mine on my Monty with varnish -- wiped down the cleaned and brightened teak with acetone to remove some of the natural teak oil. Thinned first coat of varnish with mineral spirits. Will require maintenance, esp if you are in saltwater and hard sun, but no more than teak oil, and it looks lots better. Will be wonderful when you are done -- like the boat is wearing a tux. Robbin Roddewig <robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> wrote: Hello all, after putting in a line organizer and repairing the part of the deck that came with the tabernacle I am removing and refinishing the teak loop handles and other removable teak parts. Two questions, should I be using teak oil on these parts or Cetol? What would hold up better and what would be the differences? Also, should I use some 3M 4200 sealant when putting these back or 3M silicone or nothing, as was done previously? Thanks in advance! Robbin
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Robbin, On our M15 we used Teak Oil (13 years) and on our M17 we used Cetol Light (3 years and counting). Between the two I prefer Cetol. From my experience Cetol has the following Pro's and Con's. Pro's: - if you careful prep the teak before applying Cetol the first time 90% of your wood up keep is done for each successive season. - for each successive season you lightly sand with a fine grit sandpaper and apply a thin touch-up coat. - Cetol adds a durable finish to the teak, and better protects the wood. Our hatch boards are marine plywood and Cetol does a better job of protecting the plywood from moisture penetration and ply delimitation. Con's: - Cetol (even Cetol Light) had an odd orangish color/tint. I recently read Cetol has a new version of Cetol Light, that is said to have a more natural color. - If you ever wanted to go back to natural oiled wood you would need to remove all the Cetol. - Cetol is pretty tough to remove from Fiberglass once dried. We used a good quality teak oil for the wood on our M15. The teak oil does a nice job and has a better initial look to it. We found we needed to re-oil our teak every several weeks, as the sun would dry it out. The teak oil was easy to apply, we just had to remember to keep after it. When handling oiled teak I found I would occasionally catch a splinter. With Cetol the wood has a finish over it and no splinters. Overall I prefer Cetol. I believe it does a better job of protecting the wood, and I like the once per season touch. You just have to like, or accept, the odd tint it adds to the wood. Randy Graves M17 #410 ________________________________________ From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Robbin Roddewig [robbin.roddewig@verizon.net] Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 1:29 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: M_Boats: teak Hello all, after putting in a line organizer and repairing the part of the deck that came with the tabernacle I am removing and refinishing the teak loop handles and other removable teak parts. Two questions, should I be using teak oil on these parts or Cetol? What would hold up better and what would be the differences? Also, should I use some 3M 4200 sealant when putting these back or 3M silicone or nothing, as was done previously? Thanks in advance! Robbin
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participants (5)
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Arnold F. Sharpe -
Dick Straubel -
Maria Jorge -
RandyG -
Robbin Roddewig