Jim, don't know if it would apply on an M-17 or not, or exactly what you have in mind. But on my first M-15 #264, I sheet-metal-screwed strips of aluminum scrap to each side which had the same effect as continuing the slot downward. On my current M-15 #361 I drilled some 9/64" holes through the mast that intersected the slot, then use a 1/8" S/S cotter key extending through the holes to provide a stop for the boom. (Actually, several sets of holes to provide different "stops" for the boom.) This mast had the slot made just by bending the lips outward to make the opening (whereas the older model had an actual cutout that had to be bridged) so I just carefully hammered the lops back into place. Doesn't look perfect ( don't either) but doesn't yell at you. John Butler - Rejoyce! is # 361, Joy was #264
Thanks John. The description of your modifications to Rejoyce's adjustable boom stops have given me food for thought. M-Boats on the internet and at the boatyard reveal a number of variations through the years. According to Bob, the latest masts (since 2007) have a different section and are slightly heavier. Spirit is brand new and has a nicely machined cut on one side of the track for the slugs and gooseneck slider. Bridging the cut with an aluminum strip is the most straightforward solution. But from my experience slugs tend to hang up on the slightly mismatched edges between the track and the gate. I've been considering fabricating a better fitting gate out of softer, slipperier plastic - but not sure how to go about doing it. Anyway, I was just fishing to see if anyone had thunk up a better mousetrap. Lots of outside-the-box thinkers on this BB. Thanks Jim Poulakis "Spirit" M17 #648 On May 2, 2008, at 1:24 PM, John R. Butler wrote:
Jim, don't know if it would apply on an M-17 or not, or exactly what you have in mind. But on my first M-15 #264, I sheet-metal-screwed strips of aluminum scrap to each side which had the same effect as continuing the slot downward. On my current M-15 #361 I drilled some 9/64" holes through the mast that intersected the slot, then use a 1/8" S/S cotter key extending through the holes to provide a stop for the boom. (Actually, several sets of holes to provide different "stops" for the boom.) This mast had the slot made just by bending the lips outward to make the opening (whereas the older model had an actual cutout that had to be bridged) so I just carefully hammered the lops back into place. Doesn't look perfect ( don't either) but doesn't yell at you.
John Butler - Rejoyce! is # 361, Joy was #264
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
participants (2)
-
James Poulakis -
John R. Butler