Carol, I have been down the severely stuck centerboard road. I was able to got just a slight amount of the board down below the bottom of the keel...then it stuck solid. I used two thing to get it the rest of the way down and out. I only offer these up as "what I did"..not "what to do". Use any suggestions here at your own risk. 1. I took the centerboard pendant off the winch and sent it back down the hole until it came out behind the centerboard in the slot at the bottom of the keel. I then got an old trailer winch...and I threaded the pendant onto the winch. I then cranked the winch taking up the slack until the winch seated itself against the bottom of the keel just aft of the centerboard. Now , continued cranking on the winch started pulling the board down since it could not pull the winch itself "up" anymore. Note though that this process will try to walk the pendant in between the centerboard and the centerboard trunk eventually. It did in my case and I probably got between 6-12" of the centerboard exposed before the pendant parted ways from binding. BUT...I now at least had access to some of the board. This was important because I had been unable to find a way to put any "downward" force of any magnitude on the board when it sat flush in the trunk. Next.....and this one will make you cringe.....I bored a 1/2" hole though the centerboard area that was no exposed. Why? because this allowed me to place a 1'2" bronze rod though the hole, perpendicular to the plane of the centerboard. This gave something to strike with a sledge hammer and actually transfer the energy of a "downward" blow from the hammer to the rod...to the centerboard. This is how we drove it down and out. I'm not fond of the idea of ramming a saw blade up the slot between the board and trunk. If you damage the glass up there....that is going to be a nightmare to repair..there is just no room to even get your hands up there to work. You have one of a few scenarios going on or maybe a combination. 1. the board itself and produced a scale that increased its width just binding it up. 2. you may have swelling of the keel itself if you have steel ballast and it has gotten wet and rusted 3. you may have rocks/dirt/debris jammed between the board and trunk from beaching 4. the pendant may have gotten between the board and trunk and bound it up Sound to me that you have worked on this enough hat 3 and 4 are not very likely. If you have 1 you will probably get away with the blade trick ...knocking out the scale and freeing the board. If you have #2 the blade trick is likely not going to work and may in fact eat into and or damage the gelcoated glass surface up there. If you can get to enough of the board that is protruding below the keel to do the hole trick.....the hole can be re-welded up once its out and you will never know a hole was there. That's what we did. Also...if you do this BE CAREFUL. and use appropriate protection for striking. we broke the bronze pin off a couple of times....but it is fairly soft and will deform quite a bit before it shatters. We tried a stainless rod...and that was bad news. WAY too brittle. when it broke it broke violently in sharp edges and went flying. you can see some of the processes I talked about on this site. Yes, this was on a 23....but I think you find that they are very similar. http://sailhavasu.com/saildauntless/havasumontgomerys.piczo.com/bottombliste rswingkeel86a9.html?cr=1&linkvar=000044 Once the board is out you will probably be amazed how much scale is on there and how much that can increase its width. A good sandblast job followed immediately by a barrier coat application....and then some filling and fairing can make your board look like new. If you then apply the suggested coats of barrier coat once you are done .....you should be golden for years to come. Let's hope its the board and not the slot that has swelled. That gets into another whole ball of wax. Good luck Sean