Thanks, all, for the advice on covers. I admire those who make their own, but I'm afraid my talent doesn't stretch that far. I'm going with the SailboatOwners.com model, thus cleverly avoiding all responsibility if it doesn't fit :-) I'll let you know how it works out. Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L "eisenee@aol.com" <eisenee@aol.com> wrote:
Rick We bought the Sailrite kit and it was easy to cut and sew. Don't remember the cost but was reasonable. Was easy for me, Dorothy did everything but the twistlockes witch close the bottom edges.
Eldor M17 Motu iti
-----Original Message----- From: Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> To: M BoatsForum <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tue, Mar 12, 2013 6:30 am Subject: M_Boats: Mainsail cover
Spring is here (almost), and I'm thinking about a mainsail cover for Lynne L. Does anyone have any experience with the pre-patterned cover made and sold by sailboatowners.com? Do they fit well, what's the workmanship like, etc. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Rick M-17 #633
Hi all, last fall I took apart the port wood interior of my M-23 and now have replacement wood from a local sawmill here in VA. They ripped a bunch of ash slats that will replace the rotted and warped slats that I took out (after the hull to deck leak was traced to its source). The question I have is how or if I can easily shape some of the slats. Some of the 9' slats being replaced are pretty straight while other look like a shallow U. I am sure this is due to the curvature of the hull as one proceeds from the floor to the deck. For the curved slats is there a way to shape them a bit before trying to install them (without building a steam chest that is 9' long!)? I may be able to bend them as they go in but then again, I may not. Appreciate any help! Thanks Robbin
I have found that wrapping the board in towels and pouring hot water over the whole thing will allow a certain amount of bending. Then hold it that way until it drys out. On Sat, Mar 16, 2013 at 11:27 AM, Robbin Roddewig < robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> wrote:
Hi all, last fall I took apart the port wood interior of my M-23 and now have replacement wood from a local sawmill here in VA. They ripped a bunch of ash slats that will replace the rotted and warped slats that I took out (after the hull to deck leak was traced to its source). The question I have is how or if I can easily shape some of the slats. Some of the 9' slats being replaced are pretty straight while other look like a shallow U. I am sure this is due to the curvature of the hull as one proceeds from the floor to the deck. For the curved slats is there a way to shape them a bit before trying to install them (without building a steam chest that is 9' long!)? I may be able to bend them as they go in but then again, I may not. Appreciate any help!
Thanks Robbin
Robbin, My 23 came without wood slats on the interior hull. I used clear grain fir and they were about 2 inches plus in width. I started with the shear at the deck and worked down. I got the first couple of screws in then bent upwards as I worked back. Didn't have to heat anything, but did have to use a short line on the end to bend them up tight. Here is a picture of what I mean. The green pads are closed cell foam sleeping pads that I cut up and used for some insulation. Good luck with the project! Jeff ________________________________ From: Robbin Roddewig <robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2013 9:27 AM Subject: M_Boats: wood working question Hi all, last fall I took apart the port wood interior of my M-23 and now have replacement wood from a local sawmill here in VA. They ripped a bunch of ash slats that will replace the rotted and warped slats that I took out (after the hull to deck leak was traced to its source). The question I have is how or if I can easily shape some of the slats. Some of the 9' slats being replaced are pretty straight while other look like a shallow U. I am sure this is due to the curvature of the hull as one proceeds from the floor to the deck. For the curved slats is there a way to shape them a bit before trying to install them (without building a steam chest that is 9' long!)? I may be able to bend them as they go in but then again, I may not. Appreciate any help! Thanks Robbin
A couple other pics Jeff ________________________________ From: Robbin Roddewig <robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2013 9:27 AM Subject: M_Boats: wood working question Hi all, last fall I took apart the port wood interior of my M-23 and now have replacement wood from a local sawmill here in VA. They ripped a bunch of ash slats that will replace the rotted and warped slats that I took out (after the hull to deck leak was traced to its source). The question I have is how or if I can easily shape some of the slats. Some of the 9' slats being replaced are pretty straight while other look like a shallow U. I am sure this is due to the curvature of the hull as one proceeds from the floor to the deck. For the curved slats is there a way to shape them a bit before trying to install them (without building a steam chest that is 9' long!)? I may be able to bend them as they go in but then again, I may not. Appreciate any help! Thanks Robbin
Jeff--Thanks for including those pictures. Looks beautiful. Pam Port Townsend On Mar 20, 2013, at 7:23 AM, Jeff wrote:
A couple other pics Jeff
________________________________ From: Robbin Roddewig <robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2013 9:27 AM Subject: M_Boats: wood working question
Hi all, last fall I took apart the port wood interior of my M-23 and now have replacement wood from a local sawmill here in VA. They ripped a bunch of ash slats that will replace the rotted and warped slats that I took out (after the hull to deck leak was traced to its source). The question I have is how or if I can easily shape some of the slats. Some of the 9' slats being replaced are pretty straight while other look like a shallow U. I am sure this is due to the curvature of the hull as one proceeds from the floor to the deck. For the curved slats is there a way to shape them a bit before trying to install them (without building a steam chest that is 9' long!)? I may be able to bend them as they go in but then again, I may not. Appreciate any help!
Thanks Robbin<DSCN2608.JPG><DSCN2609.JPG>
Thanks, One more picture to share. My 23 never had wood on the inside. I had to grind the paint off the inside of the hull in order to fiberglass in vertical wood strips to fasten the fir strips to. This picture shows the inside of the hull with the one the the vertical strips fiberglassed in place. Jeff ________________________________ From: pam and dana <denko@broadstripe.net> To: Jeff <northwave20@yahoo.com>; For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2013 9:38 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: wood working question Jeff--Thanks for including those pictures. Looks beautiful. Pam Port Townsend On Mar 20, 2013, at 7:23 AM, Jeff wrote:
A couple other pics Jeff
________________________________ From: Robbin Roddewig <robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2013 9:27 AM Subject: M_Boats: wood working question
Hi all, last fall I took apart the port wood interior of my M-23 and now have replacement wood from a local sawmill here in VA. They ripped a bunch of ash slats that will replace the rotted and warped slats that I took out (after the hull to deck leak was traced to its source). The question I have is how or if I can easily shape some of the slats. Some of the 9' slats being replaced are pretty straight while other look like a shallow U. I am sure this is due to the curvature of the hull as one proceeds from the floor to the deck. For the curved slats is there a way to shape them a bit before trying to install them (without building a steam chest that is 9' long!)? I may be able to bend them as they go in but then again, I may not. Appreciate any help!
Thanks Robbin<DSCN2608.JPG><DSCN2609.JPG>
----- Forwarded Message ----- From: Jeff <northwave20@yahoo.com> To: pam and dana <denko@broadstripe.net>; For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2013 1:14 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: wood working question Thanks, One more picture to share. My 23 never had wood on the inside. I had to grind the paint off the inside of the hull in order to fiberglass in vertical wood strips to fasten the fir strips to. This picture shows the inside of the hull with the one the the vertical strips fiberglassed in place. Jeff ________________________________ From: pam and dana <denko@broadstripe.net> To: Jeff <northwave20@yahoo.com>; For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2013 9:38 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: wood working question Jeff--Thanks for including those pictures. Looks beautiful. Pam Port Townsend On Mar 20, 2013, at 7:23 AM, Jeff wrote:
A couple other pics Jeff
________________________________ From: Robbin Roddewig <robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2013 9:27 AM Subject: M_Boats: wood working question
Hi all, last fall I took apart the port wood interior of my M-23 and now have replacement wood from a local sawmill here in VA. They ripped a bunch of ash slats that will replace the rotted and warped slats that I took out (after the hull to deck leak was traced to its source). The question I have is how or if I can easily shape some of the slats. Some of the 9' slats being replaced are pretty straight while other look like a shallow U. I am sure this is due to the curvature of the hull as one proceeds from the floor to the deck. For the curved slats is there a way to shape them a bit before trying to install them (without building a steam chest that is 9' long!)? I may be able to bend them as they go in but then again, I may not. Appreciate any help!
Thanks Robbin<DSCN2608.JPG><DSCN2609.JPG>
Jeff, what material is the upper beadboard? Nice work. ---Larry "Old 189" M-15 -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2013 1:19 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: M_Boats: Fw: wood working question ----- Forwarded Message ----- From: Jeff <northwave20@yahoo.com> To: pam and dana <denko@broadstripe.net>; For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2013 1:14 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: wood working question Thanks, One more picture to share. My 23 never had wood on the inside. I had to grind the paint off the inside of the hull in order to fiberglass in vertical wood strips to fasten the fir strips to. This picture shows the inside of the hull with the one the the vertical strips fiberglassed in place. Jeff ________________________________ From: pam and dana <denko@broadstripe.net> To: Jeff <northwave20@yahoo.com>; For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2013 9:38 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: wood working question Jeff--Thanks for including those pictures. Looks beautiful. Pam Port Townsend On Mar 20, 2013, at 7:23 AM, Jeff wrote:
A couple other pics Jeff
________________________________ From: Robbin Roddewig <robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2013 9:27 AM Subject: M_Boats: wood working question
Hi all, last fall I took apart the port wood interior of my M-23 and now have replacement wood from a local sawmill here in VA. They ripped a bunch of ash slats that will replace the rotted and warped slats that I took out (after the hull to deck leak was traced to its source). The question I have is how or if I can easily shape some of the slats. Some of the 9' slats being replaced are pretty straight while other look like a shallow U. I am sure this is due to the curvature of the hull as one proceeds from the floor to the deck. For the curved slats is there a way to shape them a bit before trying to install them (without building a steam chest that is 9' long!)? I may be able to bend them as they go in but then again, I may not. Appreciate any help!
Thanks Robbin<DSCN2608.JPG><DSCN2609.JPG>
Larry, The upper beadboard on the inside of the cabin trunk is just 1/4 inch ply with an oak beadboard finished side. Its just interior wainscoating type stuff. I like the looks of it, put sealer on it and trimmed it in oak. Clarity is still a work in progress but a little more gets done each year (in between sailing of course). Should be launching her in Bellingham at the end of the week. Getting close to 60 degrees here this week. Jeff ________________________________ From: "Hughston, Larry@DGS" <Larry.Hughston@dgs.ca.gov> To: Jeff <northwave20@yahoo.com>; For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 8:14 AM Subject: RE: M_Boats: Fw: wood working question Jeff, what material is the upper beadboard? Nice work. ---Larry "Old 189" M-15 -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2013 1:19 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: M_Boats: Fw: wood working question ----- Forwarded Message ----- From: Jeff <northwave20@yahoo.com> To: pam and dana <denko@broadstripe.net>; For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2013 1:14 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: wood working question Thanks, One more picture to share. My 23 never had wood on the inside. I had to grind the paint off the inside of the hull in order to fiberglass in vertical wood strips to fasten the fir strips to. This picture shows the inside of the hull with the one the the vertical strips fiberglassed in place. Jeff ________________________________ From: pam and dana <denko@broadstripe.net> To: Jeff <northwave20@yahoo.com>; For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2013 9:38 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: wood working question Jeff--Thanks for including those pictures. Looks beautiful. Pam Port Townsend On Mar 20, 2013, at 7:23 AM, Jeff wrote:
A couple other pics Jeff
________________________________ From: Robbin Roddewig <robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2013 9:27 AM Subject: M_Boats: wood working question
Hi all, last fall I took apart the port wood interior of my M-23 and now have replacement wood from a local sawmill here in VA. They ripped a bunch of ash slats that will replace the rotted and warped slats that I took out (after the hull to deck leak was traced to its source). The question I have is how or if I can easily shape some of the slats. Some of the 9' slats being replaced are pretty straight while other look like a shallow U. I am sure this is due to the curvature of the hull as one proceeds from the floor to the deck. For the curved slats is there a way to shape them a bit before trying to install them (without building a steam chest that is 9' long!)? I may be able to bend them as they go in but then again, I may not. Appreciate any help!
Thanks Robbin<DSCN2608.JPG><DSCN2609.JPG>
i miss the 'extra long' sailing season of Puget Sound ... water remains hard here in CO during late fall, winter and early spring. :: Dave Scobie --- On Tue, 3/26/13, Jeff <northwave20@yahoo.com> wrote:
...
Should be launching her in Bellingham at the end of the week. Getting close to 60 degrees here this week. Jeff
Nice work Jeff. Pretty big job. Did you press the edges right up to each other or leave a small space to allow for expansion of the slats? I guess after this picture you had to angle cut the ends of the slats. I bet the overall effect is very warm. Bill On Thu, Mar 21, 2013 at 4:14 PM, Jeff <northwave20@yahoo.com> wrote:
Thanks, One more picture to share. My 23 never had wood on the inside. I had to grind the paint off the inside of the hull in order to fiberglass in vertical wood strips to fasten the fir strips to. This picture shows the inside of the hull with the one the the vertical strips fiberglassed in place.
Jeff
________________________________ From: pam and dana <denko@broadstripe.net> To: Jeff <northwave20@yahoo.com>; For and about Montgomery Sailboats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2013 9:38 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: wood working question
Jeff--Thanks for including those pictures. Looks beautiful.
Pam Port Townsend
On Mar 20, 2013, at 7:23 AM, Jeff wrote:
A couple other pics Jeff
________________________________ From: Robbin Roddewig <robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2013 9:27 AM Subject: M_Boats: wood working question
Hi all, last fall I took apart the port wood interior of my M-23 and now have replacement wood from a local sawmill here in VA. They ripped a bunch of ash slats that will replace the rotted and warped slats that I took out (after the hull to deck leak was traced to its source). The question I have is how or if I can easily shape some of the slats. Some of the 9' slats being replaced are pretty straight while other look like a shallow U. I am sure this is due to the curvature of the hull as one proceeds from the floor to the deck. For the curved slats is there a way to shape them a bit before trying to install them (without building a steam chest that is 9' long!)? I may be able to bend them as they go in but then again, I may not. Appreciate any help!
Thanks Robbin<DSCN2608.JPG><DSCN2609.JPG>
Thanks Jeff, what a great job you did! Thanks for all the pictures and ideas! Robbin On 3/20/2013 10:23 AM, Jeff wrote:
A couple other pics Jeff
________________________________ From: Robbin Roddewig <robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2013 9:27 AM Subject: M_Boats: wood working question
Hi all, last fall I took apart the port wood interior of my M-23 and now have replacement wood from a local sawmill here in VA. They ripped a bunch of ash slats that will replace the rotted and warped slats that I took out (after the hull to deck leak was traced to its source). The question I have is how or if I can easily shape some of the slats. Some of the 9' slats being replaced are pretty straight while other look like a shallow U. I am sure this is due to the curvature of the hull as one proceeds from the floor to the deck. For the curved slats is there a way to shape them a bit before trying to install them (without building a steam chest that is 9' long!)? I may be able to bend them as they go in but then again, I may not. Appreciate any help!
Thanks Robbin
participants (8)
-
Bill Wickett -
Hughston, Larry＠DGS -
Jeff -
pam and dana -
Rick Davies -
Robbin Roddewig -
Thomas Buzzi -
W David Scobie