Re: M_Boats: montgomery_boats Digest, Vol 127, Issue 8
-----Original Message----- From: "montgomery_boats-request@mailman.xmission.com" <montgomery_boats-request@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: 9/12/2013 9:27 AM To: "montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: montgomery_boats Digest, Vol 127, Issue 8 Send montgomery_boats mailing list submissions to montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to montgomery_boats-request@mailman.xmission.com You can reach the person managing the list at montgomery_boats-owner@mailman.xmission.com When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of montgomery_boats digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Adjustable Backstay (Thomas Buzzi) 2. Re: Adjustable Backstay (Bill Wickett) 3. Re: Any Montgomery 15 brakes? owners in Southern California? (Fran Lebowitz) 4. Re: Adjustable Backstay (Thomas Buzzi) 5. Re: Adjustable Backstay (Bill Wickett) 6. Re: Adjustable Backstay (Rick Davies) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2013 18:45:58 -0500 From: Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Adjustable Backstay Message-ID: <CA+TbpAUv_rAw3-+1WTJFm3AkuBG8847ONoytyzKu4qn4pDjzOA@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 thanks for the info. I will look up all the blocks you mentioned so I get a better idea of what goes where. I have not thought much about backstay tensioning but it does now seem to be worth the effort. I see from your picture that you have some sort of kick up rudder. Is that a type of "Idarudder". If so do you have one of those hydraulic cylinders things holding it down or do you use some sort of tensioning device like a rope or shock cord? I saw where ruddercraft sells shear pins for their old style rudder to hold the blade down until you hit something then you have to replace the pin, at three or four bucks a pop. Great picture. Still a ways for me to go with my craft before I can do that. Example, The aft cockpit drain stopped working. I tried to pick it clear but nothing doing. Finally I managed to crawl aft far enough to see just how it was configured. It looked like some kind of snake lying back there. Finally had to saw a hole (access port) in the aft cockpit wall to reach the hose clamps. When I finally got the thing out, after pulling out the cockpit end of the metal fitting the hose clamped onto, I realized that since 1977 when the boat was built the severe curves forced into the hose had finally managed to make the spring steel reinforcing inside the rubber migrate sideways so the hose just collapsed. A little dirt and leaves and voila, clogged for good. So I have decided to use a couple of inch and a half rubber sleeves held on with a couple of hose clamps on either end and make a simple "s" curve out of a piece of inch and a half pvc and two 90degree pvc elbows and just clamp the whole thing back together. No tight bends, no collapsing hose. I figure that since there is virtually no movement between the aft end of the cockpit and the aft end of the hull where it joins the transom that the rubber clamps will provide plenty of give should the need arise. Fairwinds, Tom B, Mont.17#258 On Wed, Sep 11, 2013 at 5:05 PM, <GILASAILR@aol.com> wrote:
Tom,
The 8:1 would be fine, I believe you could use dyneema or similar line for the cascade line instead of wire.If you change to line here use a bullet block at the lower "A" block.
The set-up on my own boat is a wire over a block at the end of the backstay attached to the block and tackle on the starboard side of transom attached to the chainplate. Works fine - the type shown on Harken page would be 'faster acting' and does not rely upon the running line for the backstay itself. The cleat and line matter nought per side of the boat as they are acting on lower "A" block - straight down.
GO
Photo of the version I have used for 12+ years attached. from MSOG - photo credit Sean Mulligan.
Harken info from their site:
8:1 Split Backstay A more powerful version of the split backstay adjuster uses a doubling wire running through a wire block for a purchase of 8:1.
Diagram Ref. Description Small Boat Part No. Midrange Part No. Big Boat Part No. A Single _304_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=304 ) _308_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=308) B Fiddle _2655_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2655) _2621_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2621) _2621_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2621) _1559_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=1559) C Fiddle _2658_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2658) _2624_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2624) _2624_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2624) _1556_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=1556)
In a message dated 9/11/2013 1:04:37 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com writes:
------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2013 20:40:34 -0400 From: Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Cc: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Adjustable Backstay Message-ID: <FBE7E6B2-3994-4681-8376-0E672AAAB067@gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii We use this set up on our 17. C S Johnson split backstay car 38-201 http://www.csjohnson.com/marinecatalog/00036.htm Harken Bullet block 29 mmhttp://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?id=5635&taxid=424 Clam cleat CL230 http://www.clamcleat.com/cleats/cleat_details.asp?theid2=49 Bill Wickett On 2013-09-11, at 7:45 PM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
thanks for the info. I will look up all the blocks you mentioned so I get a better idea of what goes where. I have not thought much about backstay tensioning but it does now seem to be worth the effort. I see from your picture that you have some sort of kick up rudder. Is that a type of "Idarudder". If so do you have one of those hydraulic cylinders things holding it down or do you use some sort of tensioning device like a rope or shock cord? I saw where ruddercraft sells shear pins for their old style rudder to hold the blade down until you hit something then you have to replace the pin, at three or four bucks a pop. Great picture. Still a ways for me to go with my craft before I can do that. Example, The aft cockpit drain stopped working. I tried to pick it clear but nothing doing. Finally I managed to crawl aft far enough to see just how it was configured. It looked like some kind of snake lying back there. Finally had to saw a hole (access port) in the aft cockpit wall to reach the hose clamps. When I finally got the thing out, after pulling out the cockpit end of the metal fitting the hose clamped onto, I realized that since 1977 when the boat was built the severe curves forced into the hose had finally managed to make the spring steel reinforcing inside the rubber migrate sideways so the hose just collapsed. A little dirt and leaves and voila, clogged for good. So I have decided to use a couple of inch and a half rubber sleeves held on with a couple of hose clamps on either end and make a simple "s" curve out of a piece of inch and a half pvc and two 90degree pvc elbows and just clamp the whole thing back together. No tight bends, no collapsing hose. I figure that since there is virtually no movement between the aft end of the cockpit and the aft end of the hull where it joins the transom that the rubber clamps will provide plenty of give should the need arise.
Fairwinds, Tom B, Mont.17#258
On Wed, Sep 11, 2013 at 5:05 PM, <GILASAILR@aol.com> wrote:
Tom,
The 8:1 would be fine, I believe you could use dyneema or similar line for the cascade line instead of wire.If you change to line here use a bullet block at the lower "A" block.
The set-up on my own boat is a wire over a block at the end of the backstay attached to the block and tackle on the starboard side of transom attached to the chainplate. Works fine - the type shown on Harken page would be 'faster acting' and does not rely upon the running line for the backstay itself. The cleat and line matter nought per side of the boat as they are acting on lower "A" block - straight down.
GO
Photo of the version I have used for 12+ years attached. from MSOG - photo credit Sean Mulligan.
Harken info from their site:
8:1 Split Backstay A more powerful version of the split backstay adjuster uses a doubling wire running through a wire block for a purchase of 8:1.
Diagram Ref. Description Small Boat Part No. Midrange Part No. Big Boat Part No. A Single _304_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=304 ) _308_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=308) B Fiddle _2655_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2655) _2621_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2621) _2621_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2621) _1559_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=1559) C Fiddle _2658_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2658) _2624_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2624) _2624_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2624) _1556_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=1556)
In a message dated 9/11/2013 1:04:37 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com writes:
------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2013 20:34:18 -0700 From: Fran Lebowitz <ftlebowitz@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Any Montgomery 15 brakes? owners in Southern California? Message-ID: <CADQ6+n8+WciVdtd5h3dDr_aAX8AeBOhqA=Znz1w8vvp881wX6w@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 We used to have an M15 in So Cal, going up and down the mountain to Big Bear once a season. It did fine with no brakes. We pulled with 4 x 4 "88 Landcruiser, a 4K vehicle. Best, Fran On Mon, Sep 9, 2013 at 9:48 PM, stevetrapp <stevetrapp@q.com> wrote:
My M-15 trailer does not have brakes, but the boat and trailer are light enough that I have not had a problem towing it around Washington, Idaho, and Oregon, including up and over and down several mountain passes in those journeys. Steve M -15 #335
----- Original Message ----- From: <casioqv@usermail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2013 11:07 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Any Montgomery 15 owners in Southern California?
That was my experience with my Catalina 22 also- the trailer can end up being more work to maintain than the boat! For my extending tongue it was so rusted I had to cut out and replace all of the associated metal, as well as replace the brakes, lights, bearings, and bunks.
Do Monty 15 trailers typically have brakes? I think with an monty my Volvo could handle it safely without trailer brakes which would reduce maintenance and corrosion issues somewhat.
I was previously looking at the Potter 15 and mostly switched my interest to the Monty because I heard it can point much better. I've been slowly working my way up to engineless cruising, sailing my C22 for several years with my old 1966 Evinrude in the cockpit locker ready to mount... and found that I never needed it. Sometimes marinas get angry about visitors docking under sail- but seemingly less so the smaller the vessel. So I think I can cruise without a motor but if and only if I have a boat that can go to windward about as well as a C22.
Still, the 2hp honda does sound like a really light and simple motor, so perhaps I will try getting one but also keeping it in the cockpit locker for emergencies only.
Tyler
----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry@DGS Hughston" <Larry.Hughston@dgs.ca.gov> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, September 5, 2013 9:01:59 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Any Montgomery 15 owners in Southern California?
Bob is great. I always got an answer from him by email. Very responsible person. Hope you find the M-15 to your liking. Check out the trailer too, very carefully. I had to spend $1000. On my trailer to get all working again. The extension had to be loosened by a professional with heat. I keep it greased now. I had to rebuild the bunks also and I used "veranda" composite "wood" with stainless bolts. I never want to do that again ! My Monty is from 1981 and is pretty solid. If you decide to get an outboard for aux power I have heard good things about the Honda 2 hp. The one drawback of the Honda is that it is aircooled. Not the best when exposed to salt water and salt air. Keep us all posted on the new acquisition. ---Larry with M15 Old in 189.
----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2013.0.3343 / Virus Database: 3199/6396 - Release Date: 06/09/13 Internal Virus Database is out of date.
------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 08:23:35 -0500 From: Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Adjustable Backstay Message-ID: <CA+TbpAWv3u69ek6S+tCOGgS0_P2ZchBEkxDhdzbYqGtHsb=1kA@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Thanks,Bill for this info,saved me a bunch of searching. That is a neat way to use a clamclete. Fair winds, Tom B M-17, #258 On Wed, Sep 11, 2013 at 7:40 PM, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
We use this set up on our 17.
C S Johnson split backstay car 38-201 http://www.csjohnson.com/marinecatalog/00036.htm Harken Bullet block 29 mmhttp:// www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?id=5635&taxid=424 Clam cleat CL230 http://www.clamcleat.com/cleats/cleat_details.asp?theid2=49
Bill Wickett
On 2013-09-11, at 7:45 PM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
thanks for the info. I will look up all the blocks you mentioned so I get a better idea of what goes where. I have not thought much about backstay tensioning but it does now seem to be worth the effort. I see from your picture that you have some sort of kick up rudder. Is that a type of "Idarudder". If so do you have one of those hydraulic cylinders things holding it down or do you use some sort of tensioning device like a rope or shock cord? I saw where ruddercraft sells shear pins for their old style rudder to hold the blade down until you hit something then you have to replace the pin, at three or four bucks a pop. Great picture. Still a ways for me to go with my craft before I can do that. Example, The aft cockpit drain stopped working. I tried to pick it clear but nothing doing. Finally I managed to crawl aft far enough to see just how it was configured. It looked like some kind of snake lying back there. Finally had to saw a hole (access port) in the aft cockpit wall to reach the hose clamps. When I finally got the thing out, after pulling out the cockpit end of the metal fitting the hose clamped onto, I realized that since 1977 when the boat was built the severe curves forced into the hose had finally managed to make the spring steel reinforcing inside the rubber migrate sideways so the hose just collapsed. A little dirt and leaves and voila, clogged for good. So I have decided to use a couple of inch and a half rubber sleeves held on with a couple of hose clamps on either end and make a simple "s" curve out of a piece of inch and a half pvc and two 90degree pvc elbows and just clamp the whole thing back together. No tight bends, no collapsing hose. I figure that since there is virtually no movement between the aft end of the cockpit and the aft end of the hull where it joins the transom that the rubber clamps will provide plenty of give should the need arise.
Fairwinds, Tom B, Mont.17#258
On Wed, Sep 11, 2013 at 5:05 PM, <GILASAILR@aol.com> wrote:
Tom,
The 8:1 would be fine, I believe you could use dyneema or similar line for the cascade line instead of wire.If you change to line here use a bullet block at the lower "A" block.
The set-up on my own boat is a wire over a block at the end of the backstay attached to the block and tackle on the starboard side of transom attached to the chainplate. Works fine - the type shown on Harken page would be 'faster acting' and does not rely upon the running line for the backstay itself. The cleat and line matter nought per side of the boat as they are acting on lower "A" block - straight down.
GO
Photo of the version I have used for 12+ years attached. from MSOG - photo credit Sean Mulligan.
Harken info from their site:
8:1 Split Backstay A more powerful version of the split backstay adjuster uses a doubling wire running through a wire block for a purchase of 8:1.
Diagram Ref. Description Small Boat Part No. Midrange Part No. Big Boat Part No. A Single _304_ ( http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=304 ) _308_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=308) B Fiddle _2655_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2655) _2621_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2621) _2621_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2621) _1559_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=1559) C Fiddle _2658_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2658) _2624_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2624) _2624_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2624) _1556_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=1556)
In a message dated 9/11/2013 1:04:37 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com writes:
------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 09:40:43 -0400 From: Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Adjustable Backstay Message-ID: <186E887A-B3FB-484D-9D29-832167729EB3@gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii The sheave in it makes it workable for this situation. On 2013-09-12, at 9:23 AM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Thanks,Bill for this info,saved me a bunch of searching. That is a neat way to use a clamclete.
Fair winds, Tom B M-17, #258
On Wed, Sep 11, 2013 at 7:40 PM, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
We use this set up on our 17.
C S Johnson split backstay car 38-201 http://www.csjohnson.com/marinecatalog/00036.htm Harken Bullet block 29 mmhttp:// www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?id=5635&taxid=424 Clam cleat CL230 http://www.clamcleat.com/cleats/cleat_details.asp?theid2=49
Bill Wickett
On 2013-09-11, at 7:45 PM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
thanks for the info. I will look up all the blocks you mentioned so I get a better idea of what goes where. I have not thought much about backstay tensioning but it does now seem to be worth the effort. I see from your picture that you have some sort of kick up rudder. Is that a type of "Idarudder". If so do you have one of those hydraulic cylinders things holding it down or do you use some sort of tensioning device like a rope or shock cord? I saw where ruddercraft sells shear pins for their old style rudder to hold the blade down until you hit something then you have to replace the pin, at three or four bucks a pop. Great picture. Still a ways for me to go with my craft before I can do that. Example, The aft cockpit drain stopped working. I tried to pick it clear but nothing doing. Finally I managed to crawl aft far enough to see just how it was configured. It looked like some kind of snake lying back there. Finally had to saw a hole (access port) in the aft cockpit wall to reach the hose clamps. When I finally got the thing out, after pulling out the cockpit end of the metal fitting the hose clamped onto, I realized that since 1977 when the boat was built the severe curves forced into the hose had finally managed to make the spring steel reinforcing inside the rubber migrate sideways so the hose just collapsed. A little dirt and leaves and voila, clogged for good. So I have decided to use a couple of inch and a half rubber sleeves held on with a couple of hose clamps on either end and make a simple "s" curve out of a piece of inch and a half pvc and two 90degree pvc elbows and just clamp the whole thing back together. No tight bends, no collapsing hose. I figure that since there is virtually no movement between the aft end of the cockpit and the aft end of the hull where it joins the transom that the rubber clamps will provide plenty of give should the need arise.
Fairwinds, Tom B, Mont.17#258
On Wed, Sep 11, 2013 at 5:05 PM, <GILASAILR@aol.com> wrote:
Tom,
The 8:1 would be fine, I believe you could use dyneema or similar line for the cascade line instead of wire.If you change to line here use a bullet block at the lower "A" block.
The set-up on my own boat is a wire over a block at the end of the backstay attached to the block and tackle on the starboard side of transom attached to the chainplate. Works fine - the type shown on Harken page would be 'faster acting' and does not rely upon the running line for the backstay itself. The cleat and line matter nought per side of the boat as they are acting on lower "A" block - straight down.
GO
Photo of the version I have used for 12+ years attached. from MSOG - photo credit Sean Mulligan.
Harken info from their site:
8:1 Split Backstay A more powerful version of the split backstay adjuster uses a doubling wire running through a wire block for a purchase of 8:1.
Diagram Ref. Description Small Boat Part No. Midrange Part No. Big Boat Part No. A Single _304_ ( http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=304 ) _308_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=308) B Fiddle _2655_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2655) _2621_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2621) _2621_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2621) _1559_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=1559) C Fiddle _2658_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2658) _2624_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2624) _2624_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2624) _1556_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=1556)
In a message dated 9/11/2013 1:04:37 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com writes:
------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 10:26:05 -0400 From: Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Adjustable Backstay Message-ID: <CA+0OvVjdjj7s=vizqsdBYq2Bh_kAWC_c1jNzQ=VbcfvBJcR77w@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I used a small fiddle block from Duckworks (Pt. RL-378-A) attached to the eyestrap on the transom along with the CL 230 clamcleat/sheave combination to make a 4:1 adjuster. The second sheave at the top end is the lower sheave on the backstay car. You can get the general idea in the picture, although the top's kind of obscured. The line is made fast at the top end, run down through the fiddle, up to the backstay car sheave, back down to the fiddle, and then through the sheave/camcleat combination. Works great. Rick M17 #633 Lynne L On Thu, Sep 12, 2013 at 9:40 AM, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
The sheave in it makes it workable for this situation.
On 2013-09-12, at 9:23 AM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Thanks,Bill for this info,saved me a bunch of searching. That is a neat way to use a clamclete.
Fair winds, Tom B M-17, #258
On Wed, Sep 11, 2013 at 7:40 PM, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
We use this set up on our 17.
C S Johnson split backstay car 38-201 http://www.csjohnson.com/marinecatalog/00036.htm Harken Bullet block 29 mmhttp:// www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?id=5635&taxid=424 Clam cleat CL230 http://www.clamcleat.com/cleats/cleat_details.asp?theid2=49
Bill Wickett
On 2013-09-11, at 7:45 PM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
thanks for the info. I will look up all the blocks you mentioned so I get a better idea of what goes where. I have not thought much about backstay tensioning but it does now seem to be worth the effort. I see from your picture that you have some sort of kick up rudder. Is that a type of "Idarudder". If so do you have one of those hydraulic cylinders things holding it down or do you use some sort of tensioning device like a rope or shock cord? I saw where ruddercraft sells shear pins for their old style rudder to hold the blade down until you hit something then you have to replace the pin, at three or four bucks a pop. Great picture. Still a ways for me to go with my craft before I can do that. Example, The aft cockpit drain stopped working. I tried to pick it clear but nothing doing. Finally I managed to crawl aft far enough to see just how it was configured. It looked like some kind of snake lying back there. Finally had to saw a hole (access port) in the aft cockpit wall to reach the hose clamps. When I finally got the thing out, after pulling out the cockpit end of the metal fitting the hose clamped onto, I realized that since 1977 when the boat was built the severe curves forced into the hose had finally managed to make the spring steel reinforcing inside the rubber migrate sideways so the hose just collapsed. A little dirt and leaves and voila, clogged for good. So I have decided to use a couple of inch and a half rubber sleeves held on with a couple of hose clamps on either end and make a simple "s" curve out of a piece of inch and a half pvc and two 90degree pvc elbows and just clamp the whole thing back together. No tight bends, no collapsing hose. I figure that since there is virtually no movement between the aft end of the cockpit and the aft end of the hull where it joins the transom that the rubber clamps will provide plenty of give should the need arise.
Fairwinds, Tom B, Mont.17#258
On Wed, Sep 11, 2013 at 5:05 PM, <GILASAILR@aol.com> wrote:
Tom,
The 8:1 would be fine, I believe you could use dyneema or similar line for the cascade line instead of wire.If you change to line here use a bullet block at the lower "A" block.
The set-up on my own boat is a wire over a block at the end of the backstay attached to the block and tackle on the starboard side of transom attached to the chainplate. Works fine - the type shown on Harken page would be 'faster acting' and does not rely upon the running line for the backstay itself. The cleat and line matter nought per side of the boat as they are acting on lower "A" block - straight down.
GO
Photo of the version I have used for 12+ years attached. from MSOG - photo credit Sean Mulligan.
Harken info from their site:
8:1 Split Backstay A more powerful version of the split backstay adjuster uses a doubling wire running through a wire block for a purchase of 8:1.
Diagram Ref. Description Small Boat Part No. Midrange Part No. Big Boat Part No. A Single _304_ ( http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=304 ) _308_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=308) B Fiddle _2655_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2655) _2621_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2621) _2621_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2621) _1559_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=1559) C Fiddle _2658_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2658) _2624_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2624) _2624_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=2624) _1556_ (http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=1556)
In a message dated 9/11/2013 1:04:37 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com writes:
participants (1)
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Henry Rodriguez