Hi Randy, To answer your questions: 1. Teak plugs have to be destroyed in order to remove them. They are not reusable! I just take a drill that is smaller than the plug, and drill down the center. You will feel the drill break through the bottom if the plug is not as deep as the hole, or you will find that you can't go any further because you are hitting the head of the screw. At that point I take a narrow chisel and carefully remove the remainder of the plug from the hole. It should break into pieces and fall away from the edge of the hole so that you can remove it. Now you have full access to the screw underneath. When reinstalling the teak plugs, remember to orient the grain to match the grain in the toe rail, then it is less visible. Also let it protrude above the toe rail when you glue the new plug in place. When the glue has dried, then carefully shave it down to match the surface. ........I said carefully, because grain in plugs doesn't necessarily run straight, and you then have the danger of the plug splitting along a grain line, leaving you with an unintentional hole on one side of your freshly plugged area. Been there - done that! 2. See WEST Epoxy manual on products and methods for doing gelcoat repairs. (not West Marine) Color match is the critical item. On small craze cracks, or very minor gauges color mismatch is hardly visible. The problem grows as you repair larger areas. Then you may have to consider repainting the refinished hull to get back to a uniform color (and shiny finish). Repainting is not difficult - after you have done it the first time and gone through the "learning curve". My recommendation is to use a One-Part Polyurethane enamel, they are easier to use than the two part paints. It's easier to hold a wet edge and do a good job at your first try. 3. Can't offer any comments about the fenders. Connie M15 #400