Proud new-used owner!
Hi all, I am happy to post that I am now the (proud) new owner of "Pajarita," a 1974 Montgomery 17 previously owned by John Chalk. Woo hoo! One picture attached - former owner John Chalk to viewer's right, me to left. Red hull no less. Or maybe orange originally - there are some small rub spots where a sort of mid-70's-trendy orange appears to show through the redder (and faded here and there) color, and what appears to be a thin layer of gray (primer?) between the two. I'll have more questions soon for those of you who own, or have owned, a similar vintage M-17, as I sort out what is original and what is modified and what I might want to modify. And, she is ready to sail as-is! cheers, John S. -- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
On 9/6/2015 1:54 AM, John Schinnerer wrote: Congratulations on your new (used) M-17 John. Now the sailing "FUN" really starts, on big waters and on small waters. As for the hull condition; The solution to the problem is simple, and is called paint. Single component epoxy paint is easy to use; makes your hull look like new; and isn't too much work to apply. Let me highly recommend subscribing to "Off Center Harbor.com". This is a new visual boat magazine with all sorts of wonderful information videos and many "How To...." videos. The one on proper surface preparation and painting is worth way more than the cost of the subscription. It's a University Course on how to do it the professional way. It's the Master Course on boat painting, and goes way beyond reading the label on the paint can. They have a complete - step-by-step video series (about 23 videos) on building a lapstrake sailboat. There are videos on long distance cruises / diesel engine maintenance and repair / how to scull a dinghy / sailing basics / anchoring. This is just a small bit of what they have. Fair winds Connie
Hi all,
I am happy to post that I am now the (proud) new owner of "Pajarita," a 1974 Montgomery 17 previously owned by John Chalk. Woo hoo!
One picture attached - former owner John Chalk to viewer's right, me to left.
Red hull no less. Or maybe orange originally - there are some small rub spots where a sort of mid-70's-trendy orange appears to show through the redder (and faded here and there) color, and what appears to be a thin layer of gray (primer?) between the two.
I'll have more questions soon for those of you who own, or have owned, a similar vintage M-17, as I sort out what is original and what is modified and what I might want to modify. And, she is ready to sail as-is!
cheers, John S.
http://tour.offcenterharbor.com Congratulations! Becky #393 "Grace" Sent from my iPad
On Sep 6, 2015, at 6:35 AM, Conbert Benneck <chbenneck@gmail.com> wrote:
On 9/6/2015 1:54 AM, John Schinnerer wrote:
Congratulations on your new (used) M-17 John.
Now the sailing "FUN" really starts, on big waters and on small waters.
As for the hull condition; The solution to the problem is simple, and is called paint.
Single component epoxy paint is easy to use; makes your hull look like new; and isn't too much work to apply.
Let me highly recommend subscribing to "Off Center Harbor.com".
This is a new visual boat magazine with all sorts of wonderful information videos and many "How To...." videos.
The one on proper surface preparation and painting is worth way more than the cost of the subscription. It's a University Course on how to do it the professional way. It's the Master Course on boat painting, and goes way beyond reading the label on the paint can.
They have a complete - step-by-step video series (about 23 videos) on building a lapstrake sailboat.
There are videos on long distance cruises / diesel engine maintenance and repair / how to scull a dinghy / sailing basics / anchoring.
This is just a small bit of what they have.
Fair winds
Connie
Hi all,
I am happy to post that I am now the (proud) new owner of "Pajarita," a 1974 Montgomery 17 previously owned by John Chalk. Woo hoo!
One picture attached - former owner John Chalk to viewer's right, me to left.
Red hull no less. Or maybe orange originally - there are some small rub spots where a sort of mid-70's-trendy orange appears to show through the redder (and faded here and there) color, and what appears to be a thin layer of gray (primer?) between the two.
I'll have more questions soon for those of you who own, or have owned, a similar vintage M-17, as I sort out what is original and what is modified and what I might want to modify. And, she is ready to sail as-is!
cheers, John S.
Hey John, Congrats on finding your boat! I hope you find some time to get her out on the water before the weather turns this fall... Keith *Keith R. Martin, P.Eng.* *Burnaby, B.C. CanadaSerenity,** M17 Hull #353* On 5 September 2015 at 23:54, John Schinnerer <john@eco-living.net> wrote:
Hi all,
I am happy to post that I am now the (proud) new owner of "Pajarita," a 1974 Montgomery 17 previously owned by John Chalk. Woo hoo!
One picture attached - former owner John Chalk to viewer's right, me to left.
Red hull no less. Or maybe orange originally - there are some small rub spots where a sort of mid-70's-trendy orange appears to show through the redder (and faded here and there) color, and what appears to be a thin layer of gray (primer?) between the two.
I'll have more questions soon for those of you who own, or have owned, a similar vintage M-17, as I sort out what is original and what is modified and what I might want to modify. And, she is ready to sail as-is!
cheers, John S.
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
Plan on buying Tahatsu 5hp or 6hp long shaft (20") to use on the cut out transom of my newly acquired M17. Would a 25" shaft work better (Tahatsu 6hp SailPro)? Bill Ruth M17 1977 #277
for the old cutout transom M17s the Suzuki 4HP or 6HP (same motor, the 4HP is just a 'de powered' 6HP ... the 6HP has the external tank option) is great. the reason the Suzuki works great is the control/throttle arm is set closer the center of the powerhead than other motors. a control/throttle arm that 'sticks out to the side' is difficult to fit into the transom cutout - do some measuring before you purchase a motor. DON'T, in my opinion, be tempted to put an outboard motor mount on the transom. the boat will sail better with a motor mounted in the cutout (a weight balance issue). when Jerry modified the hull mold, and make the new deck mold, in '82 he removed the cutout because of 'market forces', not because the transom mounted motor mounts are superior. a 20" will work fine ... a longer shaft could be a challenge as it will drag in the water (maybe?). -- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com On Sun, Sep 6, 2015 at 9:24 PM, Bill Ruth <Bill_Ruth@whidbey.com> wrote:
Plan on buying Tahatsu 5hp or 6hp long shaft (20") to use on the cut out transom of my newly acquired M17. Would a 25" shaft work better (Tahatsu 6hp SailPro)?
Bill Ruth M17 1977 #277
Interesting to me because my M17 has the cutout but also a nice spring-loaded stainless mount. It came with a Tohatsu 6hp long shaft, which seems like overkill in both weight and HP - thoughts on that? But if I keep it for now, sounds like it would affect balance less if I remove the mount and put it in the cutout, yes? Assuming it tilts enough to clear the water and the cutout is wide enough for its head/throttle configuration. thanks, John S. On 09/06/2015 09:15 PM, Dave Scobie wrote:
for the old cutout transom M17s the Suzuki 4HP or 6HP (same motor, the 4HP is just a 'de powered' 6HP ... the 6HP has the external tank option) is great. the reason the Suzuki works great is the control/throttle arm is set closer the center of the powerhead than other motors. a control/throttle arm that 'sticks out to the side' is difficult to fit into the transom cutout - do some measuring before you purchase a motor.
DON'T, in my opinion, be tempted to put an outboard motor mount on the transom. the boat will sail better with a motor mounted in the cutout (a weight balance issue). when Jerry modified the hull mold, and make the new deck mold, in '82 he removed the cutout because of 'market forces', not because the transom mounted motor mounts are superior.
a 20" will work fine ... a longer shaft could be a challenge as it will drag in the water (maybe?).
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
I have a newer M17 with a Honda 5Hp on a motor mount. The boat is off balance especially when sailing alone. In order to level the boat I'm planning to add about 50lbs of sandbags near the bow. I'm hoping that the improved water line will improve the speed and help break through small waves. I'm also going to add some weight closer to midship on the starboard side since my motor and battery are both on the port side. Does anyone see issues with this? Thanks, Ron McNeil M17/#675/jackpot Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 13, 2015, at 4:19 PM, John Schinnerer <john@eco-living.net> wrote:
Interesting to me because my M17 has the cutout but also a nice spring-loaded stainless mount. It came with a Tohatsu 6hp long shaft, which seems like overkill in both weight and HP - thoughts on that?
But if I keep it for now, sounds like it would affect balance less if I remove the mount and put it in the cutout, yes? Assuming it tilts enough to clear the water and the cutout is wide enough for its head/throttle configuration.
thanks, John S.
On 09/06/2015 09:15 PM, Dave Scobie wrote: for the old cutout transom M17s the Suzuki 4HP or 6HP (same motor, the 4HP is just a 'de powered' 6HP ... the 6HP has the external tank option) is great. the reason the Suzuki works great is the control/throttle arm is set closer the center of the powerhead than other motors. a control/throttle arm that 'sticks out to the side' is difficult to fit into the transom cutout - do some measuring before you purchase a motor.
DON'T, in my opinion, be tempted to put an outboard motor mount on the transom. the boat will sail better with a motor mounted in the cutout (a weight balance issue). when Jerry modified the hull mold, and make the new deck mold, in '82 he removed the cutout because of 'market forces', not because the transom mounted motor mounts are superior.
a 20" will work fine ... a longer shaft could be a challenge as it will drag in the water (maybe?).
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
I'd experiment with the sand bags and see how you like it, but it would be safer to permanently fix any added ballast, so that it cannot break free or shift in rough conditions. You especially don't want them to move during a knockdown and prevent the boat from righting, or cause injury or damage as they move around. Tyler
On Sep 13, 2015, at 7:16 PM, Ron McNeil via montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
I have a newer M17 with a Honda 5Hp on a motor mount. The boat is off balance especially when sailing alone. In order to level the boat I'm planning to add about 50lbs of sandbags near the bow. I'm hoping that the improved water line will improve the speed and help break through small waves. I'm also going to add some weight closer to midship on the starboard side since my motor and battery are both on the port side. Does anyone see issues with this?
Thanks, Ron McNeil M17/#675/jackpot
As Tyler states any ballast type weight absolutely must be secured into the boat. Best way to do this would be to fiberglass the bags and place. If you choose to try to balance the boat by using weight (but I would like to know what your helm or other boat handling condition is) don't put it all the way at the bow (as I wrote before). Any ballasting weight needs to be over the boats weight center. My recommendation would be under the v-berth just forward, preferably just aft, of the mast compression post. :: Dave Scobie On Sep 13, 2015 8:36 PM, "Tyler Backman" <casioqv@usermail.com> wrote:
I'd experiment with the sand bags and see how you like it, but it would be safer to permanently fix any added ballast, so that it cannot break free or shift in rough conditions. You especially don't want them to move during a knockdown and prevent the boat from righting, or cause injury or damage as they move around.
Tyler
On Sep 13, 2015, at 7:16 PM, Ron McNeil via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
I have a newer M17 with a Honda 5Hp on a motor mount. The boat is off balance especially when sailing alone. In order to level the boat I'm planning to add about 50lbs of sandbags near the bow. I'm hoping that the improved water line will improve the speed and help break through small waves. I'm also going to add some weight closer to midship on the starboard side since my motor and battery are both on the port side. Does anyone see issues with this?
Thanks, Ron McNeil M17/#675/jackpot
Thanks guys. I'll experiment closer to the center and if it's noticeable I'll look to secure it better. I'm not going to have it in the water for a few weeks but will let you know how it works out. Thanks, Ron Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 13, 2015, at 7:43 PM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
As Tyler states any ballast type weight absolutely must be secured into the boat. Best way to do this would be to fiberglass the bags and place.
If you choose to try to balance the boat by using weight (but I would like to know what your helm or other boat handling condition is) don't put it all the way at the bow (as I wrote before). Any ballasting weight needs to be over the boats weight center. My recommendation would be under the v-berth just forward, preferably just aft, of the mast compression post.
:: Dave Scobie
On Sep 13, 2015 8:36 PM, "Tyler Backman" <casioqv@usermail.com> wrote:
I'd experiment with the sand bags and see how you like it, but it would be safer to permanently fix any added ballast, so that it cannot break free or shift in rough conditions. You especially don't want them to move during a knockdown and prevent the boat from righting, or cause injury or damage as they move around.
Tyler
On Sep 13, 2015, at 7:16 PM, Ron McNeil via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
I have a newer M17 with a Honda 5Hp on a motor mount. The boat is off balance especially when sailing alone. In order to level the boat I'm planning to add about 50lbs of sandbags near the bow. I'm hoping that the improved water line will improve the speed and help break through small waves. I'm also going to add some weight closer to midship on the starboard side since my motor and battery are both on the port side. Does anyone see issues with this?
Thanks, Ron McNeil M17/#675/jackpot
Good grief. Glass sand bags in place? These are day sailors, not around the world racers. Weigh the stuff you take aboard. For example, I have a tool/parts bag that weighs in at maybe 15 pounds. An anchor and chain and rode in a customized milk crate that comes in at another 15, and a stove and kitchen stuff and some cheap red wine for another 10. I'm guessing on a day sail I have 60 pounds of gear total. Stow as much as possible (in soft storage containers--not hard) midships under the v berth (put some indoor/outdoor carpet down there to keep stuff from sliding around), or heck on the cabin floor. Use the lightest ob you can get away with. Go. Sit forward on the opposite side as the ob. An M17 isn't that hard to balance--and it certainly doesn't have to be perfect. t On Sun, Sep 13, 2015 at 7:43 PM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
As Tyler states any ballast type weight absolutely must be secured into the boat. Best way to do this would be to fiberglass the bags and place.
If you choose to try to balance the boat by using weight (but I would like to know what your helm or other boat handling condition is) don't put it all the way at the bow (as I wrote before). Any ballasting weight needs to be over the boats weight center. My recommendation would be under the v-berth just forward, preferably just aft, of the mast compression post.
:: Dave Scobie On Sep 13, 2015 8:36 PM, "Tyler Backman" <casioqv@usermail.com> wrote:
I'd experiment with the sand bags and see how you like it, but it would be safer to permanently fix any added ballast, so that it cannot break free or shift in rough conditions. You especially don't want them to move during a knockdown and prevent the boat from righting, or cause injury or damage as they move around.
Tyler
On Sep 13, 2015, at 7:16 PM, Ron McNeil via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
I have a newer M17 with a Honda 5Hp on a motor mount. The boat is off balance especially when sailing alone. In order to level the boat I'm planning to add about 50lbs of sandbags near the bow. I'm hoping that the improved water line will improve the speed and help break through small waves. I'm also going to add some weight closer to midship on the starboard side since my motor and battery are both on the port side. Does anyone see issues with this?
Thanks, Ron McNeil M17/#675/jackpot
Good advice Tom. G M Hyde Sent from my iPad
On Sep 13, 2015, at 8:14 PM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> wrote:
Good grief. Glass sand bags in place? These are day sailors, not around the world racers.
Weigh the stuff you take aboard. For example, I have a tool/parts bag that weighs in at maybe 15 pounds. An anchor and chain and rode in a customized milk crate that comes in at another 15, and a stove and kitchen stuff and some cheap red wine for another 10. I'm guessing on a day sail I have 60 pounds of gear total. Stow as much as possible (in soft storage containers--not hard) midships under the v berth (put some indoor/outdoor carpet down there to keep stuff from sliding around), or heck on the cabin floor. Use the lightest ob you can get away with. Go. Sit forward on the opposite side as the ob.
An M17 isn't that hard to balance--and it certainly doesn't have to be perfect. t
On Sun, Sep 13, 2015 at 7:43 PM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
As Tyler states any ballast type weight absolutely must be secured into the boat. Best way to do this would be to fiberglass the bags and place.
If you choose to try to balance the boat by using weight (but I would like to know what your helm or other boat handling condition is) don't put it all the way at the bow (as I wrote before). Any ballasting weight needs to be over the boats weight center. My recommendation would be under the v-berth just forward, preferably just aft, of the mast compression post.
:: Dave Scobie
On Sep 13, 2015 8:36 PM, "Tyler Backman" <casioqv@usermail.com> wrote:
I'd experiment with the sand bags and see how you like it, but it would be safer to permanently fix any added ballast, so that it cannot break free or shift in rough conditions. You especially don't want them to move during a knockdown and prevent the boat from righting, or cause injury or damage as they move around.
Tyler
On Sep 13, 2015, at 7:16 PM, Ron McNeil via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
I have a newer M17 with a Honda 5Hp on a motor mount. The boat is off balance especially when sailing alone. In order to level the boat I'm planning to add about 50lbs of sandbags near the bow. I'm hoping that the improved water line will improve the speed and help break through small waves. I'm also going to add some weight closer to midship on the starboard side since my motor and battery are both on the port side. Does anyone see issues with this?
Thanks, Ron McNeil M17/#675/jackpot
Don't put sandbags at the bow to balance the boat. This will just make hobby horsing worse. You don't want weight at the ends of a boat. Really don't know why the boat with feel that off just because of the outboard. It's not the best location but it's not as if the boat will be completely off her lines. I have a Suzuki four, which is really a six horsepower motor just with a smaller carburetor, that weighs probably 65 pounds. My Montgomery 17 doesn't feel off balance in any significant way. If the boat is correctly on her lines the bottom of the transom is about 1-2 inches or so under the water at most. ( I can go and look at the water stain on my boat if needed) Is the feeling of off balance in the helm? Excessive lee or weather helm? This feeling would come more from mast rake being incorrect, sail trim, or blown out sails. :: Dave Scobie On Sep 13, 2015 8:17 PM, "Ron McNeil via montgomery_boats" < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
I have a newer M17 with a Honda 5Hp on a motor mount. The boat is off balance especially when sailing alone. In order to level the boat I'm planning to add about 50lbs of sandbags near the bow. I'm hoping that the improved water line will improve the speed and help break through small waves. I'm also going to add some weight closer to midship on the starboard side since my motor and battery are both on the port side. Does anyone see issues with this?
Thanks, Ron McNeil M17/#675/jackpot
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 13, 2015, at 4:19 PM, John Schinnerer <john@eco-living.net> wrote:
Interesting to me because my M17 has the cutout but also a nice spring-loaded stainless mount. It came with a Tohatsu 6hp long shaft, which seems like overkill in both weight and HP - thoughts on that?
But if I keep it for now, sounds like it would affect balance less if I remove the mount and put it in the cutout, yes? Assuming it tilts enough to clear the water and the cutout is wide enough for its head/throttle configuration.
thanks, John S.
On 09/06/2015 09:15 PM, Dave Scobie wrote: for the old cutout transom M17s the Suzuki 4HP or 6HP (same motor, the 4HP is just a 'de powered' 6HP ... the 6HP has the external tank option) is great. the reason the Suzuki works great is the control/throttle arm is set closer the center of the powerhead than other motors. a control/throttle arm that 'sticks out to the side' is difficult to fit into the transom cutout - do some measuring before you purchase a motor.
DON'T, in my opinion, be tempted to put an outboard motor mount on the transom. the boat will sail better with a motor mounted in the cutout (a weight balance issue). when Jerry modified the hull mold, and make the new deck mold, in '82 he removed the cutout because of 'market forces', not because the transom mounted motor mounts are superior.
a 20" will work fine ... a longer shaft could be a challenge as it will drag in the water (maybe?).
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
You might think about "active" weight also. For instance, a five gallon flexible water jug or two will fit in several different places on the starboard side and provide 40 pounds of starboard side balance. Also, I have modified a couple of bass boat seats so they can be placed on the cockpit seats facing forward and be slid forward or aft depending on fore/aft balance requirements. That way I can sit further forward while my legs are also forward on the seat and the cockpit coaming provides an arm rest while my other hand rests on the tiller. It is very comfortable since you are always facing forward instead of having to crane your neck around. Tom B, Mont.17, "AS-IS" On Sun, Sep 13, 2015 at 9:16 PM, Ron McNeil via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
I have a newer M17 with a Honda 5Hp on a motor mount. The boat is off balance especially when sailing alone. In order to level the boat I'm planning to add about 50lbs of sandbags near the bow. I'm hoping that the improved water line will improve the speed and help break through small waves. I'm also going to add some weight closer to midship on the starboard side since my motor and battery are both on the port side. Does anyone see issues with this?
Thanks, Ron McNeil M17/#675/jackpot
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 13, 2015, at 4:19 PM, John Schinnerer <john@eco-living.net> wrote:
Interesting to me because my M17 has the cutout but also a nice spring-loaded stainless mount. It came with a Tohatsu 6hp long shaft, which seems like overkill in both weight and HP - thoughts on that?
But if I keep it for now, sounds like it would affect balance less if I remove the mount and put it in the cutout, yes? Assuming it tilts enough to clear the water and the cutout is wide enough for its head/throttle configuration.
thanks, John S.
On 09/06/2015 09:15 PM, Dave Scobie wrote: for the old cutout transom M17s the Suzuki 4HP or 6HP (same motor, the 4HP is just a 'de powered' 6HP ... the 6HP has the external tank option) is great. the reason the Suzuki works great is the control/throttle arm is set closer the center of the powerhead than other motors. a control/throttle arm that 'sticks out to the side' is difficult to fit into the transom cutout - do some measuring before you purchase a motor.
DON'T, in my opinion, be tempted to put an outboard motor mount on the transom. the boat will sail better with a motor mounted in the cutout (a weight balance issue). when Jerry modified the hull mold, and make the new deck mold, in '82 he removed the cutout because of 'market forces', not because the transom mounted motor mounts are superior.
a 20" will work fine ... a longer shaft could be a challenge as it will drag in the water (maybe?).
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
I have a 5hp Honda and I am fine bow to stern but the boat lists to the port due to engine and battery on port side. I too plan on getting some weight on the other side of the goat. Jim E M-17 #603 Grace On Sun, Sep 13, 2015 at 4:19 PM, John Schinnerer <john@eco-living.net> wrote:
Interesting to me because my M17 has the cutout but also a nice spring-loaded stainless mount. It came with a Tohatsu 6hp long shaft, which seems like overkill in both weight and HP - thoughts on that?
But if I keep it for now, sounds like it would affect balance less if I remove the mount and put it in the cutout, yes? Assuming it tilts enough to clear the water and the cutout is wide enough for its head/throttle configuration.
thanks, John S.
On 09/06/2015 09:15 PM, Dave Scobie wrote:
for the old cutout transom M17s the Suzuki 4HP or 6HP (same motor, the 4HP is just a 'de powered' 6HP ... the 6HP has the external tank option) is great. the reason the Suzuki works great is the control/throttle arm is set closer the center of the powerhead than other motors. a control/throttle arm that 'sticks out to the side' is difficult to fit into the transom cutout - do some measuring before you purchase a motor.
DON'T, in my opinion, be tempted to put an outboard motor mount on the transom. the boat will sail better with a motor mounted in the cutout (a weight balance issue). when Jerry modified the hull mold, and make the new deck mold, in '82 he removed the cutout because of 'market forces', not because the transom mounted motor mounts are superior.
a 20" will work fine ... a longer shaft could be a challenge as it will drag in the water (maybe?).
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
participants (12)
-
Becky Belding -
Bill Ruth -
Conbert Benneck -
Dave Scobie -
GARY M HYDE -
Jim Ellsworth -
John Schinnerer -
Keith R. Martin -
Ron McNeil -
Thomas Buzzi -
Tom Smith -
Tyler Backman