Tom, Don't apply heat and solvent at same time - more contemplation has occurred - we think that may have negative effects unless your insurance coverage is exceptional. GO duh In a message dated 1/14/2014 12:32:42 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, GILASAILR@aol.com writes: Tom, A little solvent of your choice -lacquer thinner, acetone helps - my genoa camcleat was 'grown on' and that helped - heat helps -we have that in abundance down here- left a lot of residue - dark brown bedding compnd - used everything in the quiver - finally a brass brush & acetone + an exacto knife blade (#7) to clean out the last bits - lotsa contemplative time whilst scraping and pondering the real meaning of life. After that exercise - I had it ALL figgered out - I am a self actualized boat grunt! Give it hell! GO - going racing agin the big guns this weekend! 2014 WICR/Potter Invitational In a message dated 1/14/2014 11:04:03 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, jerry@jerrymontgomery.org writes: Tom- I don't know of a sure cure, but if you made a little, sharp, hardwood wedge and just got it started, then tapping it in more as the cleat loosened up, it would probably work, I've done that before with no problems. It's probably just frozen on! jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Smith" <openboatt@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2014 8:58 AM Subject: M_Boats: Removing stubborn clamcleat
I'm changing out the foresail halyard clamcleat on the cabin-top of my M17. Man, that baby is on there. Removed the bolts/nuts, but she no want to move. I hesitate to pry because it's so well seated I'm afraid a chunk of 'glass will come up too.
Any suggestions on how to get this thing loosened up? The careful application of heat? Some kind of solvent?
Suggestions appreciated. Tom
t _/\_
-- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. SPAMfighter has removed 9866 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len Do you have a slow PC? Try a Free scan http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen
Thanks Gary. I like the many solutions approach--I don't have to make a decision that way. And yes, heat + solvent could very well lead to too much adventure... t t _/\_ On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 11:35 AM, <GILASAILR@aol.com> wrote:
Tom,
Don't apply heat and solvent at same time - more contemplation has occurred - we think that may have negative effects unless your insurance coverage is exceptional.
GO duh
In a message dated 1/14/2014 12:32:42 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, GILASAILR@aol.com writes:
Tom,
A little solvent of your choice -lacquer thinner, acetone helps - my genoa
camcleat was 'grown on' and that helped - heat helps -we have that in abundance down here- left a lot of residue - dark brown bedding compnd - used everything in the quiver - finally a brass brush & acetone + an exacto knife blade (#7) to clean out the last bits - lotsa contemplative time whilst scraping and pondering the real meaning of life. After that exercise - I had it ALL figgered out - I am a self actualized boat grunt!
Give it hell! GO - going racing agin the big guns this weekend! 2014 WICR/Potter Invitational
In a message dated 1/14/2014 11:04:03 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, jerry@jerrymontgomery.org writes:
Tom- I don't know of a sure cure, but if you made a little, sharp, hardwood wedge and just got it started, then tapping it in more as the cleat loosened up, it would probably work, I've done that before with no problems.
It's probably just frozen on!
jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Smith" <openboatt@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2014 8:58 AM Subject: M_Boats: Removing stubborn clamcleat
I'm changing out the foresail halyard clamcleat on the cabin-top of my M17. Man, that baby is on there. Removed the bolts/nuts, but she no want to move. I hesitate to pry because it's so well seated I'm afraid a chunk of 'glass will come up too.
Any suggestions on how to get this thing loosened up? The careful application of heat? Some kind of solvent?
Suggestions appreciated. Tom
t _/\_
-- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. SPAMfighter has removed 9866 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len
Do you have a slow PC? Try a Free scan http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen
One old trick is to take a thin guitar string and use it to "saw" back and forth under the fitting. Also, is there any chance someone bedded the cleat with 3M 5200? In that case, trying to pry it off almost certainly will damage the deck. I avoid that stuff like the plague but I understand someone does sell a solvent for it. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Smith" <openboatt@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2014 2:49:49 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Removing stubborn clamcleat Thanks Gary. I like the many solutions approach--I don't have to make a decision that way. And yes, heat + solvent could very well lead to too much adventure... t t _/\_ On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 11:35 AM, <GILASAILR@aol.com> wrote:
Tom,
Don't apply heat and solvent at same time - more contemplation has occurred - we think that may have negative effects unless your insurance coverage is exceptional.
GO duh
In a message dated 1/14/2014 12:32:42 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, GILASAILR@aol.com writes:
Tom,
A little solvent of your choice -lacquer thinner, acetone helps - my genoa
camcleat was 'grown on' and that helped - heat helps -we have that in abundance down here- left a lot of residue - dark brown bedding compnd - used everything in the quiver - finally a brass brush & acetone + an exacto knife blade (#7) to clean out the last bits - lotsa contemplative time whilst scraping and pondering the real meaning of life. After that exercise - I had it ALL figgered out - I am a self actualized boat grunt!
Give it hell! GO - going racing agin the big guns this weekend! 2014 WICR/Potter Invitational
In a message dated 1/14/2014 11:04:03 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, jerry@jerrymontgomery.org writes:
Tom- I don't know of a sure cure, but if you made a little, sharp, hardwood wedge and just got it started, then tapping it in more as the cleat loosened up, it would probably work, I've done that before with no problems.
It's probably just frozen on!
jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Smith" <openboatt@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2014 8:58 AM Subject: M_Boats: Removing stubborn clamcleat
I'm changing out the foresail halyard clamcleat on the cabin-top of my M17. Man, that baby is on there. Removed the bolts/nuts, but she no want to move. I hesitate to pry because it's so well seated I'm afraid a chunk of 'glass will come up too.
Any suggestions on how to get this thing loosened up? The careful application of heat? Some kind of solvent?
Suggestions appreciated. Tom
t _/\_
-- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. SPAMfighter has removed 9866 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len
Do you have a slow PC? Try a Free scan http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen
Good idea. Now where did I put that old stratocaster? I don't think it's 5200, thank goodness. t t _/\_ On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 1:55 PM, <swwheatley@comcast.net> wrote:
One old trick is to take a thin guitar string and use it to "saw" back and forth under the fitting. Also, is there any chance someone bedded the cleat with 3M 5200? In that case, trying to pry it off almost certainly will damage the deck. I avoid that stuff like the plague but I understand someone does sell a solvent for it.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Smith" <openboatt@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2014 2:49:49 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Removing stubborn clamcleat
Thanks Gary. I like the many solutions approach--I don't have to make a decision that way. And yes, heat + solvent could very well lead to too much adventure... t
t _/\_
On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 11:35 AM, <GILASAILR@aol.com> wrote:
Tom,
Don't apply heat and solvent at same time - more contemplation has occurred - we think that may have negative effects unless your insurance coverage is exceptional.
GO duh
In a message dated 1/14/2014 12:32:42 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, GILASAILR@aol.com writes:
Tom,
A little solvent of your choice -lacquer thinner, acetone helps - my genoa
camcleat was 'grown on' and that helped - heat helps -we have that in abundance down here- left a lot of residue - dark brown bedding compnd - used everything in the quiver - finally a brass brush & acetone + an exacto knife blade (#7) to clean out the last bits - lotsa contemplative time whilst scraping and pondering the real meaning of life. After that exercise - I had it ALL figgered out - I am a self actualized boat grunt!
Give it hell! GO - going racing agin the big guns this weekend! 2014 WICR/Potter Invitational
In a message dated 1/14/2014 11:04:03 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, jerry@jerrymontgomery.org writes:
Tom- I don't know of a sure cure, but if you made a little, sharp, hardwood wedge and just got it started, then tapping it in more as the cleat loosened up, it would probably work, I've done that before with no problems.
It's probably just frozen on!
jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Smith" <openboatt@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2014 8:58 AM Subject: M_Boats: Removing stubborn clamcleat
I'm changing out the foresail halyard clamcleat on the cabin-top of my M17. Man, that baby is on there. Removed the bolts/nuts, but she no want to move. I hesitate to pry because it's so well seated I'm afraid a chunk of 'glass will come up too.
Any suggestions on how to get this thing loosened up? The careful application of heat? Some kind of solvent?
Suggestions appreciated. Tom
t _/\_
-- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. SPAMfighter has removed 9866 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len
Do you have a slow PC? Try a Free scan http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen
To report back, I used a combination of my trusty Milwaukee heat gun plus a stiff putty knife to remove this cleat. Worked well. Once I got the knife started at the end, I simply heated the blade and made slow progress until the cleat popped off. Thanks for the tips sailors. t t _/\_ On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 4:16 PM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> wrote:
Good idea. Now where did I put that old stratocaster?
I don't think it's 5200, thank goodness. t
t _/\_
On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 1:55 PM, <swwheatley@comcast.net> wrote:
One old trick is to take a thin guitar string and use it to "saw" back and forth under the fitting. Also, is there any chance someone bedded the cleat with 3M 5200? In that case, trying to pry it off almost certainly will damage the deck. I avoid that stuff like the plague but I understand someone does sell a solvent for it.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Smith" <openboatt@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2014 2:49:49 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Removing stubborn clamcleat
Thanks Gary. I like the many solutions approach--I don't have to make a decision that way. And yes, heat + solvent could very well lead to too much adventure... t
t _/\_
On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 11:35 AM, <GILASAILR@aol.com> wrote:
Tom,
Don't apply heat and solvent at same time - more contemplation has occurred - we think that may have negative effects unless your insurance coverage is exceptional.
GO duh
In a message dated 1/14/2014 12:32:42 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, GILASAILR@aol.com writes:
Tom,
A little solvent of your choice -lacquer thinner, acetone helps - my genoa
camcleat was 'grown on' and that helped - heat helps -we have that in abundance down here- left a lot of residue - dark brown bedding compnd - used everything in the quiver - finally a brass brush & acetone + an exacto knife blade (#7) to clean out the last bits - lotsa contemplative time whilst scraping and pondering the real meaning of life. After that exercise - I had it ALL figgered out - I am a self actualized boat grunt!
Give it hell! GO - going racing agin the big guns this weekend! 2014 WICR/Potter Invitational
In a message dated 1/14/2014 11:04:03 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, jerry@jerrymontgomery.org writes:
Tom- I don't know of a sure cure, but if you made a little, sharp, hardwood wedge and just got it started, then tapping it in more as the cleat loosened up, it would probably work, I've done that before with no problems.
It's probably just frozen on!
jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Smith" <openboatt@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2014 8:58 AM Subject: M_Boats: Removing stubborn clamcleat
I'm changing out the foresail halyard clamcleat on the cabin-top of my M17. Man, that baby is on there. Removed the bolts/nuts, but she no want to move. I hesitate to pry because it's so well seated I'm afraid a chunk of 'glass will come up too.
Any suggestions on how to get this thing loosened up? The careful application of heat? Some kind of solvent?
Suggestions appreciated. Tom
t _/\_
-- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. SPAMfighter has removed 9866 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len
Do you have a slow PC? Try a Free scan http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen
Will you try "Goo gone" to get off the residue or did the thing come off cleanly? On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 11:04 AM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> wrote: > To report back, I used a combination of my trusty Milwaukee heat gun plus a > stiff putty knife to remove this cleat. Worked well. Once I got the knife > started at the end, I simply heated the blade and made slow progress until > the cleat popped off. Thanks for the tips sailors. t > > > > t _/\_ > > > On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 4:16 PM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> wrote: > > > Good idea. Now where did I put that old stratocaster? > > > > I don't think it's 5200, thank goodness. t > > > > > > > > t _/\_ > > > > > > On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 1:55 PM, <swwheatley@comcast.net> wrote: > > > >> One old trick is to take a thin guitar string and use it to "saw" back > >> and forth under the fitting. Also, is there any chance someone bedded > the > >> cleat with 3M 5200? In that case, trying to pry it off almost certainly > >> will damage the deck. I avoid that stuff like the plague but I > understand > >> someone does sell a solvent for it. > >> > >> ----- Original Message ----- > >> > >> From: "Tom Smith" <openboatt@gmail.com> > >> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < > >> montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> > >> Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2014 2:49:49 PM > >> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Removing stubborn clamcleat > >> > >> Thanks Gary. I like the many solutions approach--I don't have to make a > >> decision that way. And yes, heat + solvent could very well lead to too > >> much adventure... t > >> > >> > >> > >> t _/\_ > >> > >> > >> On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 11:35 AM, <GILASAILR@aol.com> wrote: > >> > >> > Tom, > >> > > >> > Don't apply heat and solvent at same time - more contemplation has > >> occurred > >> > - we think that may have negative effects unless your insurance > coverage > >> > is exceptional. > >> > > >> > GO duh > >> > > >> > > >> > In a message dated 1/14/2014 12:32:42 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, > >> > GILASAILR@aol.com writes: > >> > > >> > Tom, > >> > > >> > A little solvent of your choice -lacquer thinner, acetone helps - my > >> genoa > >> > > >> > camcleat was 'grown on' and that helped - heat helps -we have that in > >> > abundance down here- left a lot of residue - dark brown bedding > compnd - > >> > used > >> > everything in the quiver - finally a brass brush & acetone + an exacto > >> > knife > >> > blade (#7) to clean out the last bits - lotsa contemplative time > whilst > >> > scraping and pondering the real meaning of life. After that exercise > - I > >> > had > >> > it ALL figgered out - I am a self actualized boat grunt! > >> > > >> > Give it hell! > >> > GO - > >> > going racing agin the big guns this weekend! 2014 WICR/Potter > >> > Invitational > >> > > >> > > >> > In a message dated 1/14/2014 11:04:03 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, > >> > jerry@jerrymontgomery.org writes: > >> > > >> > Tom- I don't know of a sure cure, but if you made a little, sharp, > >> > hardwood > >> > wedge and just got it started, then tapping it in more as the cleat > >> > loosened > >> > up, it would probably work, I've done that before with no problems. > >> > > >> > It's probably just frozen on! > >> > > >> > jerry > >> > ----- Original Message ----- > >> > From: "Tom Smith" <openboatt@gmail.com> > >> > To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" > >> > <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> > >> > Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2014 8:58 AM > >> > Subject: M_Boats: Removing stubborn clamcleat > >> > > >> > > >> > > I'm changing out the foresail halyard clamcleat on the cabin-top of > my > >> > > M17. Man, that baby is on there. Removed the bolts/nuts, but she no > >> > want > >> > > to move. I hesitate to pry because it's so well seated I'm afraid a > >> > chunk > >> > > of 'glass will come up too. > >> > > > >> > > Any suggestions on how to get this thing loosened up? The careful > >> > > application of heat? Some kind of solvent? > >> > > > >> > > Suggestions appreciated. Tom > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > t _/\_ > >> > > > >> > > >> > > >> > -- > >> > I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. > >> > SPAMfighter has removed 9866 of my spam emails to date. > >> > Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len > >> > > >> > Do you have a slow PC? Try a Free scan > >> > http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > >> > > >
I haven't taken the residue off yet, Thomas, but I'll be doing that soon. I'm sizing the cleat down as I've adopted a 1/4 low stretch line for the jib halyard. The exiting large cleat, though not in bad shape, allowed the halyard to slip a bit under hard use. Because I have a phobia about drilling holes in my boat, I'm going to fashion a cleat pedestal that will allow me to use the existing holes, and change the angle of the lead a bit to improve line capture. I'll keep you posted. t t _/\_ On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 12:02 PM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com>wrote: > Will you try "Goo gone" to get off the residue or did the thing come off > cleanly? > > > On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 11:04 AM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> wrote: > > > To report back, I used a combination of my trusty Milwaukee heat gun > plus a > > stiff putty knife to remove this cleat. Worked well. Once I got the > knife > > started at the end, I simply heated the blade and made slow progress > until > > the cleat popped off. Thanks for the tips sailors. t > > > > > > > > t _/\_ > > > > > > On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 4:16 PM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> wrote: > > > > > Good idea. Now where did I put that old stratocaster? > > > > > > I don't think it's 5200, thank goodness. t > > > > > > > > > > > > t _/\_ > > > > > > > > > On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 1:55 PM, <swwheatley@comcast.net> wrote: > > > > > >> One old trick is to take a thin guitar string and use it to "saw" back > > >> and forth under the fitting. Also, is there any chance someone bedded > > the > > >> cleat with 3M 5200? In that case, trying to pry it off almost > certainly > > >> will damage the deck. I avoid that stuff like the plague but I > > understand > > >> someone does sell a solvent for it. > > >> > > >> ----- Original Message ----- > > >> > > >> From: "Tom Smith" <openboatt@gmail.com> > > >> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < > > >> montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> > > >> Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2014 2:49:49 PM > > >> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Removing stubborn clamcleat > > >> > > >> Thanks Gary. I like the many solutions approach--I don't have to make > a > > >> decision that way. And yes, heat + solvent could very well lead to too > > >> much adventure... t > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> t _/\_ > > >> > > >> > > >> On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 11:35 AM, <GILASAILR@aol.com> wrote: > > >> > > >> > Tom, > > >> > > > >> > Don't apply heat and solvent at same time - more contemplation has > > >> occurred > > >> > - we think that may have negative effects unless your insurance > > coverage > > >> > is exceptional. > > >> > > > >> > GO duh > > >> > > > >> > > > >> > In a message dated 1/14/2014 12:32:42 P.M. US Mountain Standard > Time, > > >> > GILASAILR@aol.com writes: > > >> > > > >> > Tom, > > >> > > > >> > A little solvent of your choice -lacquer thinner, acetone helps - my > > >> genoa > > >> > > > >> > camcleat was 'grown on' and that helped - heat helps -we have that > in > > >> > abundance down here- left a lot of residue - dark brown bedding > > compnd - > > >> > used > > >> > everything in the quiver - finally a brass brush & acetone + an > exacto > > >> > knife > > >> > blade (#7) to clean out the last bits - lotsa contemplative time > > whilst > > >> > scraping and pondering the real meaning of life. After that exercise > > - I > > >> > had > > >> > it ALL figgered out - I am a self actualized boat grunt! > > >> > > > >> > Give it hell! > > >> > GO - > > >> > going racing agin the big guns this weekend! 2014 WICR/Potter > > >> > Invitational > > >> > > > >> > > > >> > In a message dated 1/14/2014 11:04:03 A.M. US Mountain Standard > Time, > > >> > jerry@jerrymontgomery.org writes: > > >> > > > >> > Tom- I don't know of a sure cure, but if you made a little, sharp, > > >> > hardwood > > >> > wedge and just got it started, then tapping it in more as the cleat > > >> > loosened > > >> > up, it would probably work, I've done that before with no problems. > > >> > > > >> > It's probably just frozen on! > > >> > > > >> > jerry > > >> > ----- Original Message ----- > > >> > From: "Tom Smith" <openboatt@gmail.com> > > >> > To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" > > >> > <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> > > >> > Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2014 8:58 AM > > >> > Subject: M_Boats: Removing stubborn clamcleat > > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > I'm changing out the foresail halyard clamcleat on the cabin-top > of > > my > > >> > > M17. Man, that baby is on there. Removed the bolts/nuts, but she > no > > >> > want > > >> > > to move. I hesitate to pry because it's so well seated I'm afraid > a > > >> > chunk > > >> > > of 'glass will come up too. > > >> > > > > >> > > Any suggestions on how to get this thing loosened up? The careful > > >> > > application of heat? Some kind of solvent? > > >> > > > > >> > > Suggestions appreciated. Tom > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> > > t _/\_ > > >> > > > > >> > > > >> > > > >> > -- > > >> > I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. > > >> > SPAMfighter has removed 9866 of my spam emails to date. > > >> > Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len > > >> > > > >> > Do you have a slow PC? Try a Free scan > > >> > http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen > > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > >> > > > > > >
Sounds elegant, and smart. How is that 1/4 inch low stretch on the hands for hauling?Or are you using a halyard winch? On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 3:48 PM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> wrote: > I haven't taken the residue off yet, Thomas, but I'll be doing that soon. > I'm sizing the cleat down as I've adopted a 1/4 low stretch line for the > jib halyard. The exiting large cleat, though not in bad shape, allowed the > halyard to slip a bit under hard use. > > Because I have a phobia about drilling holes in my boat, I'm going to > fashion a cleat pedestal that will allow me to use the existing holes, and > change the angle of the lead a bit to improve line capture. I'll keep you > posted. t > > > > t _/\_ > > > On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 12:02 PM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com > >wrote: > > > Will you try "Goo gone" to get off the residue or did the thing come off > > cleanly? > > > > > > On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 11:04 AM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> wrote: > > > > > To report back, I used a combination of my trusty Milwaukee heat gun > > plus a > > > stiff putty knife to remove this cleat. Worked well. Once I got the > > knife > > > started at the end, I simply heated the blade and made slow progress > > until > > > the cleat popped off. Thanks for the tips sailors. t > > > > > > > > > > > > t _/\_ > > > > > > > > > On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 4:16 PM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> > wrote: > > > > > > > Good idea. Now where did I put that old stratocaster? > > > > > > > > I don't think it's 5200, thank goodness. t > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > t _/\_ > > > > > > > > > > > > On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 1:55 PM, <swwheatley@comcast.net> wrote: > > > > > > > >> One old trick is to take a thin guitar string and use it to "saw" > back > > > >> and forth under the fitting. Also, is there any chance someone > bedded > > > the > > > >> cleat with 3M 5200? In that case, trying to pry it off almost > > certainly > > > >> will damage the deck. I avoid that stuff like the plague but I > > > understand > > > >> someone does sell a solvent for it. > > > >> > > > >> ----- Original Message ----- > > > >> > > > >> From: "Tom Smith" <openboatt@gmail.com> > > > >> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < > > > >> montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> > > > >> Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2014 2:49:49 PM > > > >> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Removing stubborn clamcleat > > > >> > > > >> Thanks Gary. I like the many solutions approach--I don't have to > make > > a > > > >> decision that way. And yes, heat + solvent could very well lead to > too > > > >> much adventure... t > > > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > > >> t _/\_ > > > >> > > > >> > > > >> On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 11:35 AM, <GILASAILR@aol.com> wrote: > > > >> > > > >> > Tom, > > > >> > > > > >> > Don't apply heat and solvent at same time - more contemplation has > > > >> occurred > > > >> > - we think that may have negative effects unless your insurance > > > coverage > > > >> > is exceptional. > > > >> > > > > >> > GO duh > > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> > In a message dated 1/14/2014 12:32:42 P.M. US Mountain Standard > > Time, > > > >> > GILASAILR@aol.com writes: > > > >> > > > > >> > Tom, > > > >> > > > > >> > A little solvent of your choice -lacquer thinner, acetone helps - > my > > > >> genoa > > > >> > > > > >> > camcleat was 'grown on' and that helped - heat helps -we have that > > in > > > >> > abundance down here- left a lot of residue - dark brown bedding > > > compnd - > > > >> > used > > > >> > everything in the quiver - finally a brass brush & acetone + an > > exacto > > > >> > knife > > > >> > blade (#7) to clean out the last bits - lotsa contemplative time > > > whilst > > > >> > scraping and pondering the real meaning of life. After that > exercise > > > - I > > > >> > had > > > >> > it ALL figgered out - I am a self actualized boat grunt! > > > >> > > > > >> > Give it hell! > > > >> > GO - > > > >> > going racing agin the big guns this weekend! 2014 WICR/Potter > > > >> > Invitational > > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> > In a message dated 1/14/2014 11:04:03 A.M. US Mountain Standard > > Time, > > > >> > jerry@jerrymontgomery.org writes: > > > >> > > > > >> > Tom- I don't know of a sure cure, but if you made a little, sharp, > > > >> > hardwood > > > >> > wedge and just got it started, then tapping it in more as the > cleat > > > >> > loosened > > > >> > up, it would probably work, I've done that before with no > problems. > > > >> > > > > >> > It's probably just frozen on! > > > >> > > > > >> > jerry > > > >> > ----- Original Message ----- > > > >> > From: "Tom Smith" <openboatt@gmail.com> > > > >> > To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" > > > >> > <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> > > > >> > Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2014 8:58 AM > > > >> > Subject: M_Boats: Removing stubborn clamcleat > > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> > > I'm changing out the foresail halyard clamcleat on the cabin-top > > of > > > my > > > >> > > M17. Man, that baby is on there. Removed the bolts/nuts, but she > > no > > > >> > want > > > >> > > to move. I hesitate to pry because it's so well seated I'm > afraid > > a > > > >> > chunk > > > >> > > of 'glass will come up too. > > > >> > > > > > >> > > Any suggestions on how to get this thing loosened up? The > careful > > > >> > > application of heat? Some kind of solvent? > > > >> > > > > > >> > > Suggestions appreciated. Tom > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > t _/\_ > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> > -- > > > >> > I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. > > > >> > SPAMfighter has removed 9866 of my spam emails to date. > > > >> > Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len > > > >> > > > > >> > Do you have a slow PC? Try a Free scan > > > >> > http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen > > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> > > > >> > > > > > > > > > >
I worried about 1/4 when I first installed the line--I admit I got talked into that size by the guy who sold me the line, and smaller is better aloft like that (although frankly, I don't worry about those sorts of things too much). There is a cabin-top winch and I use it (almost never with a winch handle, but sometimes). I changed the main halyard out as well, and there's only a horn cleat on the mast there, but it hasn't proven to be a problem (my main is bolt rope, and I guide the luff of the sail into the slot when I raise the main) and it sweats up pretty well. I use a boom down haul (the gooseneck is a slider) to tighten up the luff in higher winds, so I don't need to hoist the main all that tightly, and I'm almost always wearing sailing gloves, so that helps too. I went to all rope from wire/rope, and changed out the sheaves at the masthead as well--it was just time to smooth all that out. I'll let you know how the small cleat install goes. I did the same thing for the downhaul--fabricated a pedestal that made the lead more fair. It ain't that pretty, but it works well, and I wouldn't live without a downhaul. t t _/\_ On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 2:45 PM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com>wrote: > Sounds elegant, and smart. How is that 1/4 inch low stretch on the hands > for hauling?Or are you using a halyard winch? > > > On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 3:48 PM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> wrote: > > > I haven't taken the residue off yet, Thomas, but I'll be doing that soon. > > I'm sizing the cleat down as I've adopted a 1/4 low stretch line for the > > jib halyard. The exiting large cleat, though not in bad shape, allowed > the > > halyard to slip a bit under hard use. > > > > Because I have a phobia about drilling holes in my boat, I'm going to > > fashion a cleat pedestal that will allow me to use the existing holes, > and > > change the angle of the lead a bit to improve line capture. I'll keep > you > > posted. t > > > > > > > > t _/\_ > > > > > > On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 12:02 PM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com > > >wrote: > > > > > Will you try "Goo gone" to get off the residue or did the thing come > off > > > cleanly? > > > > > > > > > On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 11:04 AM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> > wrote: > > > > > > > To report back, I used a combination of my trusty Milwaukee heat gun > > > plus a > > > > stiff putty knife to remove this cleat. Worked well. Once I got the > > > knife > > > > started at the end, I simply heated the blade and made slow progress > > > until > > > > the cleat popped off. Thanks for the tips sailors. t > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > t _/\_ > > > > > > > > > > > > On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 4:16 PM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > Good idea. Now where did I put that old stratocaster? > > > > > > > > > > I don't think it's 5200, thank goodness. t > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > t _/\_ > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 1:55 PM, <swwheatley@comcast.net> wrote: > > > > > > > > > >> One old trick is to take a thin guitar string and use it to "saw" > > back > > > > >> and forth under the fitting. Also, is there any chance someone > > bedded > > > > the > > > > >> cleat with 3M 5200? In that case, trying to pry it off almost > > > certainly > > > > >> will damage the deck. I avoid that stuff like the plague but I > > > > understand > > > > >> someone does sell a solvent for it. > > > > >> > > > > >> ----- Original Message ----- > > > > >> > > > > >> From: "Tom Smith" <openboatt@gmail.com> > > > > >> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < > > > > >> montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> > > > > >> Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2014 2:49:49 PM > > > > >> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Removing stubborn clamcleat > > > > >> > > > > >> Thanks Gary. I like the many solutions approach--I don't have to > > make > > > a > > > > >> decision that way. And yes, heat + solvent could very well lead to > > too > > > > >> much adventure... t > > > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> t _/\_ > > > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 11:35 AM, <GILASAILR@aol.com> wrote: > > > > >> > > > > >> > Tom, > > > > >> > > > > > >> > Don't apply heat and solvent at same time - more contemplation > has > > > > >> occurred > > > > >> > - we think that may have negative effects unless your insurance > > > > coverage > > > > >> > is exceptional. > > > > >> > > > > > >> > GO duh > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > In a message dated 1/14/2014 12:32:42 P.M. US Mountain Standard > > > Time, > > > > >> > GILASAILR@aol.com writes: > > > > >> > > > > > >> > Tom, > > > > >> > > > > > >> > A little solvent of your choice -lacquer thinner, acetone helps > - > > my > > > > >> genoa > > > > >> > > > > > >> > camcleat was 'grown on' and that helped - heat helps -we have > that > > > in > > > > >> > abundance down here- left a lot of residue - dark brown bedding > > > > compnd - > > > > >> > used > > > > >> > everything in the quiver - finally a brass brush & acetone + an > > > exacto > > > > >> > knife > > > > >> > blade (#7) to clean out the last bits - lotsa contemplative time > > > > whilst > > > > >> > scraping and pondering the real meaning of life. After that > > exercise > > > > - I > > > > >> > had > > > > >> > it ALL figgered out - I am a self actualized boat grunt! > > > > >> > > > > > >> > Give it hell! > > > > >> > GO - > > > > >> > going racing agin the big guns this weekend! 2014 WICR/Potter > > > > >> > Invitational > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > In a message dated 1/14/2014 11:04:03 A.M. US Mountain Standard > > > Time, > > > > >> > jerry@jerrymontgomery.org writes: > > > > >> > > > > > >> > Tom- I don't know of a sure cure, but if you made a little, > sharp, > > > > >> > hardwood > > > > >> > wedge and just got it started, then tapping it in more as the > > cleat > > > > >> > loosened > > > > >> > up, it would probably work, I've done that before with no > > problems. > > > > >> > > > > > >> > It's probably just frozen on! > > > > >> > > > > > >> > jerry > > > > >> > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > >> > From: "Tom Smith" <openboatt@gmail.com> > > > > >> > To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" > > > > >> > <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> > > > > >> > Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2014 8:58 AM > > > > >> > Subject: M_Boats: Removing stubborn clamcleat > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > I'm changing out the foresail halyard clamcleat on the > cabin-top > > > of > > > > my > > > > >> > > M17. Man, that baby is on there. Removed the bolts/nuts, but > she > > > no > > > > >> > want > > > > >> > > to move. I hesitate to pry because it's so well seated I'm > > afraid > > > a > > > > >> > chunk > > > > >> > > of 'glass will come up too. > > > > >> > > > > > > >> > > Any suggestions on how to get this thing loosened up? The > > careful > > > > >> > > application of heat? Some kind of solvent? > > > > >> > > > > > > >> > > Suggestions appreciated. Tom > > > > >> > > > > > > >> > > > > > > >> > > t _/\_ > > > > >> > > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > -- > > > > >> > I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. > > > > >> > SPAMfighter has removed 9866 of my spam emails to date. > > > > >> > Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len > > > > >> > > > > > >> > Do you have a slow PC? Try a Free scan > > > > >> > http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >
Tom, Do you use a vang at all? I have always had one on board but never really used it effectively. Like windage aloft I just never was that concerned about the ultimate sail shape. Sorry Jerry. Read an article years ago entitled, "Don't Vang the Main". It was so long ago it may have been about square riggers. I had a bolt rope on my last M 17 and am considering going to slugs. I have read that slugs effect the airflow over the mainsail but I guess if I am not concerned about vangs the slug business shouldn't bother me. They seem a lot easier to use when handling the main. Have you considered them? I will be trailering my boat for a while and slugs set up quicker than a boltrope. Tom B On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 6:19 PM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> wrote: > I worried about 1/4 when I first installed the line--I admit I got talked > into that size by the guy who sold me the line, and smaller is better aloft > like that (although frankly, I don't worry about those sorts of things too > much). > > There is a cabin-top winch and I use it (almost never with a winch handle, > but sometimes). I changed the main halyard out as well, and there's only a > horn cleat on the mast there, but it hasn't proven to be a problem (my main > is bolt rope, and I guide the luff of the sail into the slot when I raise > the main) and it sweats up pretty well. I use a boom down haul (the > gooseneck is a slider) to tighten up the luff in higher winds, so I don't > need to hoist the main all that tightly, and I'm almost always wearing > sailing gloves, so that helps too. > > I went to all rope from wire/rope, and changed out the sheaves at the > masthead as well--it was just time to smooth all that out. > > I'll let you know how the small cleat install goes. I did the same thing > for the downhaul--fabricated a pedestal that made the lead more fair. It > ain't that pretty, but it works well, and I wouldn't live without a > downhaul. t > > > > t _/\_ > > > On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 2:45 PM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com > >wrote: > > > Sounds elegant, and smart. How is that 1/4 inch low stretch on the hands > > for hauling?Or are you using a halyard winch? > > > > > > On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 3:48 PM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> wrote: > > > > > I haven't taken the residue off yet, Thomas, but I'll be doing that > soon. > > > I'm sizing the cleat down as I've adopted a 1/4 low stretch line for > the > > > jib halyard. The exiting large cleat, though not in bad shape, allowed > > the > > > halyard to slip a bit under hard use. > > > > > > Because I have a phobia about drilling holes in my boat, I'm going to > > > fashion a cleat pedestal that will allow me to use the existing holes, > > and > > > change the angle of the lead a bit to improve line capture. I'll keep > > you > > > posted. t > > > > > > > > > > > > t _/\_ > > > > > > > > > On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 12:02 PM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com > > > >wrote: > > > > > > > Will you try "Goo gone" to get off the residue or did the thing come > > off > > > > cleanly? > > > > > > > > > > > > On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 11:04 AM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > To report back, I used a combination of my trusty Milwaukee heat > gun > > > > plus a > > > > > stiff putty knife to remove this cleat. Worked well. Once I got > the > > > > knife > > > > > started at the end, I simply heated the blade and made slow > progress > > > > until > > > > > the cleat popped off. Thanks for the tips sailors. t > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > t _/\_ > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 4:16 PM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> > > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > Good idea. Now where did I put that old stratocaster? > > > > > > > > > > > > I don't think it's 5200, thank goodness. t > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > t _/\_ > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 1:55 PM, <swwheatley@comcast.net> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > >> One old trick is to take a thin guitar string and use it to > "saw" > > > back > > > > > >> and forth under the fitting. Also, is there any chance someone > > > bedded > > > > > the > > > > > >> cleat with 3M 5200? In that case, trying to pry it off almost > > > > certainly > > > > > >> will damage the deck. I avoid that stuff like the plague but I > > > > > understand > > > > > >> someone does sell a solvent for it. > > > > > >> > > > > > >> ----- Original Message ----- > > > > > >> > > > > > >> From: "Tom Smith" <openboatt@gmail.com> > > > > > >> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < > > > > > >> montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> > > > > > >> Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2014 2:49:49 PM > > > > > >> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Removing stubborn clamcleat > > > > > >> > > > > > >> Thanks Gary. I like the many solutions approach--I don't have to > > > make > > > > a > > > > > >> decision that way. And yes, heat + solvent could very well lead > to > > > too > > > > > >> much adventure... t > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> t _/\_ > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 11:35 AM, <GILASAILR@aol.com> wrote: > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > Tom, > > > > > >> > > > > > > >> > Don't apply heat and solvent at same time - more contemplation > > has > > > > > >> occurred > > > > > >> > - we think that may have negative effects unless your > insurance > > > > > coverage > > > > > >> > is exceptional. > > > > > >> > > > > > > >> > GO duh > > > > > >> > > > > > > >> > > > > > > >> > In a message dated 1/14/2014 12:32:42 P.M. US Mountain > Standard > > > > Time, > > > > > >> > GILASAILR@aol.com writes: > > > > > >> > > > > > > >> > Tom, > > > > > >> > > > > > > >> > A little solvent of your choice -lacquer thinner, acetone > helps > > - > > > my > > > > > >> genoa > > > > > >> > > > > > > >> > camcleat was 'grown on' and that helped - heat helps -we have > > that > > > > in > > > > > >> > abundance down here- left a lot of residue - dark brown > bedding > > > > > compnd - > > > > > >> > used > > > > > >> > everything in the quiver - finally a brass brush & acetone + > an > > > > exacto > > > > > >> > knife > > > > > >> > blade (#7) to clean out the last bits - lotsa contemplative > time > > > > > whilst > > > > > >> > scraping and pondering the real meaning of life. After that > > > exercise > > > > > - I > > > > > >> > had > > > > > >> > it ALL figgered out - I am a self actualized boat grunt! > > > > > >> > > > > > > >> > Give it hell! > > > > > >> > GO - > > > > > >> > going racing agin the big guns this weekend! 2014 WICR/Potter > > > > > >> > Invitational > > > > > >> > > > > > > >> > > > > > > >> > In a message dated 1/14/2014 11:04:03 A.M. US Mountain > Standard > > > > Time, > > > > > >> > jerry@jerrymontgomery.org writes: > > > > > >> > > > > > > >> > Tom- I don't know of a sure cure, but if you made a little, > > sharp, > > > > > >> > hardwood > > > > > >> > wedge and just got it started, then tapping it in more as the > > > cleat > > > > > >> > loosened > > > > > >> > up, it would probably work, I've done that before with no > > > problems. > > > > > >> > > > > > > >> > It's probably just frozen on! > > > > > >> > > > > > > >> > jerry > > > > > >> > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > > >> > From: "Tom Smith" <openboatt@gmail.com> > > > > > >> > To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" > > > > > >> > <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> > > > > > >> > Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2014 8:58 AM > > > > > >> > Subject: M_Boats: Removing stubborn clamcleat > > > > > >> > > > > > > >> > > > > > > >> > > I'm changing out the foresail halyard clamcleat on the > > cabin-top > > > > of > > > > > my > > > > > >> > > M17. Man, that baby is on there. Removed the bolts/nuts, but > > she > > > > no > > > > > >> > want > > > > > >> > > to move. I hesitate to pry because it's so well seated I'm > > > afraid > > > > a > > > > > >> > chunk > > > > > >> > > of 'glass will come up too. > > > > > >> > > > > > > > >> > > Any suggestions on how to get this thing loosened up? The > > > careful > > > > > >> > > application of heat? Some kind of solvent? > > > > > >> > > > > > > > >> > > Suggestions appreciated. Tom > > > > > >> > > > > > > > >> > > > > > > > >> > > t _/\_ > > > > > >> > > > > > > > >> > > > > > > >> > > > > > > >> > -- > > > > > >> > I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. > > > > > >> > SPAMfighter has removed 9866 of my spam emails to date. > > > > > >> > Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len > > > > > >> > > > > > > >> > Do you have a slow PC? Try a Free scan > > > > > >> > http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen > > > > > >> > > > > > > >> > > > > > > >> > > > > > > >> > > > > > > >> > > > > > > >> > > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >
Tom, I'll cast a vote for slugs. With a mastgate in the sail slot, the main goes up or comes down in seconds. I have to use a bolt rope on the CDI Genoa furler, and it's a pain. Even though I race a lot, I'm not at the level of performance where the luff airflow difference between slugs and a bolt rope is going to make much difference in results. Rick M17 #633 Lynne L On Thursday, January 16, 2014, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Tom, Do you use a vang at all? I have always had one on board but never really used it effectively. Like windage aloft I just never was that concerned about the ultimate sail shape. Sorry Jerry. Read an article years ago entitled, "Don't Vang the Main". It was so long ago it may have been about square riggers. I had a bolt rope on my last M 17 and am considering going to slugs. I have read that slugs effect the airflow over the mainsail but I guess if I am not concerned about vangs the slug business shouldn't bother me. They seem a lot easier to use when handling the main. Have you considered them? I will be trailering my boat for a while and slugs set up quicker than a boltrope. Tom B
On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 6:19 PM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> wrote:
I worried about 1/4 when I first installed the line--I admit I got talked into that size by the guy who sold me the line, and smaller is better aloft like that (although frankly, I don't worry about those sorts of things too much).
There is a cabin-top winch and I use it (almost never with a winch handle, but sometimes). I changed the main halyard out as well, and there's only a horn cleat on the mast there, but it hasn't proven to be a problem (my main is bolt rope, and I guide the luff of the sail into the slot when I raise the main) and it sweats up pretty well. I use a boom down haul (the gooseneck is a slider) to tighten up the luff in higher winds, so I don't need to hoist the main all that tightly, and I'm almost always wearing sailing gloves, so that helps too.
I went to all rope from wire/rope, and changed out the sheaves at the masthead as well--it was just time to smooth all that out.
I'll let you know how the small cleat install goes. I did the same thing for the downhaul--fabricated a pedestal that made the lead more fair. It ain't that pretty, but it works well, and I wouldn't live without a downhaul. t
t _/\_
On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 2:45 PM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com
wrote:
Sounds elegant, and smart. How is that 1/4 inch low stretch on the hands for hauling?Or are you using a halyard winch?
On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 3:48 PM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> wrote:
I haven't taken the residue off yet, Thomas, but I'll be doing that soon. I'm sizing the cleat down as I've adopted a 1/4 low stretch line for the jib halyard. The exiting large cleat, though not in bad shape, allowed the halyard to slip a bit under hard use.
Because I have a phobia about drilling holes in my boat, I'm going to fashion a cleat pedestal that will allow me to use the existing holes, and change the angle of the lead a bit to improve line capture. I'll keep you posted. t
t _/\_
On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 12:02 PM, Thomas Buzzi < thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com
wrote:
Will you try "Goo gone" to get off the residue or did the thing come off cleanly?
On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 11:04 AM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> wrote:
To report back, I used a combination of my trusty Milwaukee heat gun plus a stiff putty knife to remove this cleat. Worked well. Once I got the knife started at the end, I simply heated the blade and made slow progress until the cleat popped off. Thanks for the tips sailors. t
t _/\_
On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 4:16 PM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> wrote:
> Good idea. Now where did I put that old stratocaster? > > I don't think it's 5200, thank goodness. t > > >
Rick, If you race a lot, have you found a vang to make a big difference in performance? Anybody thought about one of those old timey boom gallows frames at the aft end of the cockpit? Seems like a good start for attaching a bimini of sorts too. I can feel Jerry cringing from here. lol. Tom B M17 #258 On Thu, Jan 16, 2014 at 8:45 AM, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Tom,
I'll cast a vote for slugs. With a mastgate in the sail slot, the main goes up or comes down in seconds. I have to use a bolt rope on the CDI Genoa furler, and it's a pain. Even though I race a lot, I'm not at the level of performance where the luff airflow difference between slugs and a bolt rope is going to make much difference in results.
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Thursday, January 16, 2014, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Tom, Do you use a vang at all? I have always had one on board but never really used it effectively. Like windage aloft I just never was that concerned about the ultimate sail shape. Sorry Jerry. Read an article years ago entitled, "Don't Vang the Main". It was so long ago it may have been about square riggers. I had a bolt rope on my last M 17 and am considering going to slugs. I have read that slugs effect the airflow over the mainsail but I guess if I am not concerned about vangs the slug business shouldn't bother me. They seem a lot easier to use when handling the main. Have you considered them? I will be trailering my boat for a while and slugs set up quicker than a boltrope. Tom B
On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 6:19 PM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> wrote:
I worried about 1/4 when I first installed the line--I admit I got talked into that size by the guy who sold me the line, and smaller is better aloft like that (although frankly, I don't worry about those sorts of things too much).
There is a cabin-top winch and I use it (almost never with a winch handle, but sometimes). I changed the main halyard out as well, and there's only a horn cleat on the mast there, but it hasn't proven to be a problem (my main is bolt rope, and I guide the luff of the sail into the slot when I raise the main) and it sweats up pretty well. I use a boom down haul (the gooseneck is a slider) to tighten up the luff in higher winds, so I don't need to hoist the main all that tightly, and I'm almost always wearing sailing gloves, so that helps too.
I went to all rope from wire/rope, and changed out the sheaves at the masthead as well--it was just time to smooth all that out.
I'll let you know how the small cleat install goes. I did the same thing for the downhaul--fabricated a pedestal that made the lead more fair. It ain't that pretty, but it works well, and I wouldn't live without a downhaul. t
t _/\_
On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 2:45 PM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com
wrote:
Sounds elegant, and smart. How is that 1/4 inch low stretch on the hands for hauling?Or are you using a halyard winch?
On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 3:48 PM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> wrote:
I haven't taken the residue off yet, Thomas, but I'll be doing that soon. I'm sizing the cleat down as I've adopted a 1/4 low stretch line for the jib halyard. The exiting large cleat, though not in bad shape, allowed the halyard to slip a bit under hard use.
Because I have a phobia about drilling holes in my boat, I'm going to fashion a cleat pedestal that will allow me to use the existing holes, and change the angle of the lead a bit to improve line capture. I'll keep you posted. t
t _/\_
On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 12:02 PM, Thomas Buzzi < thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com
wrote:
Will you try "Goo gone" to get off the residue or did the thing come off cleanly?
On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 11:04 AM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com
wrote:
> To report back, I used a combination of my trusty Milwaukee
heat gun
plus a > stiff putty knife to remove this cleat. Worked well. Once I got the knife > started at the end, I simply heated the blade and made slow progress until > the cleat popped off. Thanks for the tips sailors. t > > > > t _/\_ > > > On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 4:16 PM, Tom Smith < openboatt@gmail.com> wrote: > > > Good idea. Now where did I put that old stratocaster? > > > > I don't think it's 5200, thank goodness. t > > > > > >
Tom, At my level of racing capability I can't honestly say it makes a big difference. I use it mainly to stabilize the boom and keep the sail flat downwind when it's windy. For real advice on the nuances of using a vang in racing you need to go the experts like Jerry or Gary O. I'm more of a beer-can kind of racer, although I do manage to generally keep up with a fleet of larger boats. For that I thank the designers who made the M17 to punch well above her weight competitively. Rick M17 #633 Lynne L On Thursday, January 16, 2014, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Rick, If you race a lot, have you found a vang to make a big difference in performance? Anybody thought about one of those old timey boom gallows frames at the aft end of the cockpit? Seems like a good start for attaching a bimini of sorts too. I can feel Jerry cringing from here. lol.
Tom B M17 #258
On Thu, Jan 16, 2014 at 8:45 AM, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Tom,
I'll cast a vote for slugs. With a mastgate in the sail slot, the main goes up or comes down in seconds. I have to use a bolt rope on the CDI Genoa furler, and it's a pain. Even though I race a lot, I'm not at the level of performance where the luff airflow difference between slugs and a bolt rope is going to make much difference in results.
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Thursday, January 16, 2014, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Tom, Do you use a vang at all? I have always had one on board but never really used it effectively. Like windage aloft I just never was that concerned about the ultimate sail shape. Sorry Jerry. Read an article years ago entitled, "Don't Vang the Main". It was so long ago it may have been about square riggers. I had a bolt rope on my last M 17 and am considering going to slugs. I have read that slugs effect the airflow over the mainsail but I guess if I am not concerned about vangs the slug business shouldn't bother me. They seem a lot easier to use when handling the main. Have you considered them? I will be trailering my boat for a while and slugs set up quicker than a boltrope. Tom B
On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 6:19 PM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> wrote:
I worried about 1/4 when I first installed the line--I admit I got talked into that size by the guy who sold me the line, and smaller is better aloft like that (although frankly, I don't worry about those sorts of things too much).
There is a cabin-top winch and I use it (almost never with a winch handle, but sometimes). I changed the main halyard out as well, and there's only a horn cleat on the mast there, but it hasn't proven to be a problem (my main is bolt rope, and I guide the luff of the sail into the slot when I raise the main) and it sweats up pretty well. I use a boom down haul (the gooseneck is a slider) to tighten up the luff in higher winds, so I don't need to hoist the main all that tightly, and I'm almost always wearing sailing gloves, so that helps too.
I went to all rope from wire/rope, and changed out the sheaves at the masthead as well--it was just time to smooth all that out.
I'll let you know how the small cleat install goes. I did the same thing for the downhaul--fabricated a pedestal that made the lead more fair. It ain't that pretty, but it works well, and I wouldn't live without a downhaul. t
t _/\_
On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 2:45 PM, Thomas Buzzi < thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com
wrote:
Sounds elegant, and smart. How is that 1/4 inch low stretch on the hands for hauling?Or are you using a halyard winch?
On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 3:48 PM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> wrote:
I haven't taken the residue off yet, Thomas, but I'll be doing that soon. I'm sizing the cleat down as I've adopted a 1/4 low stretch line for the jib halyard. The exiting large cleat, though not in bad shape, allowed the halyard to sli
Rick, Did you have a mast gate installed on your mast? Sounds like it is working for you, if you did. Tom B On Thu, Jan 16, 2014 at 10:20 AM, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Tom,
At my level of racing capability I can't honestly say it makes a big difference. I use it mainly to stabilize the boom and keep the sail flat downwind when it's windy. For real advice on the nuances of using a vang in racing you need to go the experts like Jerry or Gary O. I'm more of a beer-can kind of racer, although I do manage to generally keep up with a fleet of larger boats. For that I thank the designers who made the M17 to punch well above her weight competitively.
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Thursday, January 16, 2014, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Rick, If you race a lot, have you found a vang to make a big difference in performance? Anybody thought about one of those old timey boom gallows frames at the aft end of the cockpit? Seems like a good start for attaching a bimini of sorts too. I can feel Jerry cringing from here. lol.
Tom B M17 #258
On Thu, Jan 16, 2014 at 8:45 AM, Rick Davies <jdavies104@gmail.com> wrote:
Tom,
I'll cast a vote for slugs. With a mastgate in the sail slot, the main goes up or comes down in seconds. I have to use a bolt rope on the CDI Genoa furler, and it's a pain. Even though I race a lot, I'm not at the level of performance where the luff airflow difference between slugs and a bolt rope is going to make much difference in results.
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Thursday, January 16, 2014, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Tom, Do you use a vang at all? I have always had one on board but never really used it effectively. Like windage aloft I just never was that concerned about the ultimate sail shape. Sorry Jerry. Read an article years ago entitled, "Don't Vang the Main". It was so long ago it may have been about square riggers. I had a bolt rope on my last M 17 and am considering going to slugs. I have read that slugs effect the airflow over the mainsail but I guess if I am not concerned about vangs the slug business shouldn't bother me. They seem a lot easier to use when handling the main. Have you considered them? I will be trailering my boat for a while and slugs set up quicker than a boltrope. Tom B
On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 6:19 PM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> wrote:
I worried about 1/4 when I first installed the line--I admit I got talked into that size by the guy who sold me the line, and smaller is better aloft like that (although frankly, I don't worry about those sorts of things too much).
There is a cabin-top winch and I use it (almost never with a winch handle, but sometimes). I changed the main halyard out as well, and there's only a horn cleat on the mast there, but it hasn't proven to be a problem (my main is bolt rope, and I guide the luff of the sail into the slot when I raise the main) and it sweats up pretty well. I use a boom down haul (the gooseneck is a slider) to tighten up the luff in higher winds, so I don't need to hoist the main all that tightly, and I'm almost always wearing sailing gloves, so that helps too.
I went to all rope from wire/rope, and changed out the sheaves at the masthead as well--it was just time to smooth all that out.
I'll let you know how the small cleat install goes. I did the same thing for the downhaul--fabricated a pedestal that made the lead more fair. It ain't that pretty, but it works well, and I wouldn't live without a downhaul. t
t _/\_
On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 2:45 PM, Thomas Buzzi < thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com
wrote:
Sounds elegant, and smart. How is that 1/4 inch low stretch on the hands for hauling?Or are you using a halyard winch?
On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 3:48 PM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> wrote:
> I haven't taken the residue off yet, Thomas, but I'll be doing that soon. > I'm sizing the cleat down as I've adopted a 1/4 low stretch line for the > jib halyard. The exiting large cleat, though not in bad shape, allowed the > halyard to sli
Tom,
Me too. I agree with your approach.
Steve
M-15 # 335
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Smith" <openboatt@gmail.com>
To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2014 1:48 PM
Subject: Re: M_Boats: Removing stubborn clamcleat
>I haven't taken the residue off yet, Thomas, but I'll be doing that soon.
> I'm sizing the cleat down as I've adopted a 1/4 low stretch line for the
> jib halyard. The exiting large cleat, though not in bad shape, allowed the
> halyard to slip a bit under hard use.
>
> Because I have a phobia about drilling holes in my boat, I'm going to
> fashion a cleat pedestal that will allow me to use the existing holes, and
> change the angle of the lead a bit to improve line capture. I'll keep you
> posted. t
>
>
>
> t _/\_
>
>
> On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 12:02 PM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com>wrote:
>
>> Will you try "Goo gone" to get off the residue or did the thing come off
>> cleanly?
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 11:04 AM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> > To report back, I used a combination of my trusty Milwaukee heat gun
>> plus a
>> > stiff putty knife to remove this cleat. Worked well. Once I got the
>> knife
>> > started at the end, I simply heated the blade and made slow progress
>> until
>> > the cleat popped off. Thanks for the tips sailors. t
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > t _/\_
>> >
>> >
>> > On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 4:16 PM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> wrote:
>> >
>> > > Good idea. Now where did I put that old stratocaster?
>> > >
>> > > I don't think it's 5200, thank goodness. t
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > t _/\_
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 1:55 PM, <swwheatley@comcast.net> wrote:
>> > >
>> > >> One old trick is to take a thin guitar string and use it to "saw" back
>> > >> and forth under the fitting. Also, is there any chance someone bedded
>> > the
>> > >> cleat with 3M 5200? In that case, trying to pry it off almost
>> certainly
>> > >> will damage the deck. I avoid that stuff like the plague but I
>> > understand
>> > >> someone does sell a solvent for it.
>> > >>
>> > >> ----- Original Message -----
>> > >>
>> > >> From: "Tom Smith" <openboatt@gmail.com>
>> > >> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <
>> > >> montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com>
>> > >> Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2014 2:49:49 PM
>> > >> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Removing stubborn clamcleat
>> > >>
>> > >> Thanks Gary. I like the many solutions approach--I don't have to make
>> a
>> > >> decision that way. And yes, heat + solvent could very well lead to too
>> > >> much adventure... t
>> > >>
>> > >>
>> > >>
>> > >> t _/\_
>> > >>
>> > >>
>> > >> On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 11:35 AM, <GILASAILR@aol.com> wrote:
>> > >>
>> > >> > Tom,
>> > >> >
>> > >> > Don't apply heat and solvent at same time - more contemplation has
>> > >> occurred
>> > >> > - we think that may have negative effects unless your insurance
>> > coverage
>> > >> > is exceptional.
>> > >> >
>> > >> > GO duh
>> > >> >
>> > >> >
>> > >> > In a message dated 1/14/2014 12:32:42 P.M. US Mountain Standard
>> Time,
>> > >> > GILASAILR@aol.com writes:
>> > >> >
>> > >> > Tom,
>> > >> >
>> > >> > A little solvent of your choice -lacquer thinner, acetone helps - my
>> > >> genoa
>> > >> >
>> > >> > camcleat was 'grown on' and that helped - heat helps -we have that
>> in
>> > >> > abundance down here- left a lot of residue - dark brown bedding
>> > compnd -
>> > >> > used
>> > >> > everything in the quiver - finally a brass brush & acetone + an
>> exacto
>> > >> > knife
>> > >> > blade (#7) to clean out the last bits - lotsa contemplative time
>> > whilst
>> > >> > scraping and pondering the real meaning of life. After that exercise
>> > - I
>> > >> > had
>> > >> > it ALL figgered out - I am a self actualized boat grunt!
>> > >> >
>> > >> > Give it hell!
>> > >> > GO -
>> > >> > going racing agin the big guns this weekend! 2014 WICR/Potter
>> > >> > Invitational
>> > >> >
>> > >> >
>> > >> > In a message dated 1/14/2014 11:04:03 A.M. US Mountain Standard
>> Time,
>> > >> > jerry@jerrymontgomery.org writes:
>> > >> >
>> > >> > Tom- I don't know of a sure cure, but if you made a little, sharp,
>> > >> > hardwood
>> > >> > wedge and just got it started, then tapping it in more as the cleat
>> > >> > loosened
>> > >> > up, it would probably work, I've done that before with no problems.
>> > >> >
>> > >> > It's probably just frozen on!
>> > >> >
>> > >> > jerry
>> > >> > ----- Original Message -----
>> > >> > From: "Tom Smith" <openboatt@gmail.com>
>> > >> > To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats"
>> > >> > <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com>
>> > >> > Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2014 8:58 AM
>> > >> > Subject: M_Boats: Removing stubborn clamcleat
>> > >> >
>> > >> >
>> > >> > > I'm changing out the foresail halyard clamcleat on the cabin-top
>> of
>> > my
>> > >> > > M17. Man, that baby is on there. Removed the bolts/nuts, but she
>> no
>> > >> > want
>> > >> > > to move. I hesitate to pry because it's so well seated I'm afraid
>> a
>> > >> > chunk
>> > >> > > of 'glass will come up too.
>> > >> > >
>> > >> > > Any suggestions on how to get this thing loosened up? The careful
>> > >> > > application of heat? Some kind of solvent?
>> > >> > >
>> > >> > > Suggestions appreciated. Tom
>> > >> > >
>> > >> > >
>> > >> > > t _/\_
>> > >> > >
>> > >> >
>> > >> >
>> > >> > --
>> > >> > I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
>> > >> > SPAMfighter has removed 9866 of my spam emails to date.
>> > >> > Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len
>> > >> >
>> > >> > Do you have a slow PC? Try a Free scan
>> > >> > http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen
>> > >> >
>> > >> >
>> > >> >
>> > >> >
>> > >> >
>> > >> >
>> > >>
>> > >>
>> > >
>> >
>>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2013.0.3462 / Virus Database: 3681/7005 - Release Date: 01/15/14
>
Total happenstance. I heated the deck/sealant/chock a bit to get the knife started, then kept the gun on the knife because it slowly dawned on me that there'd be good heat transfer through the metal of the knife. It worked great (as opposed to being one of my many failed experiments...). Chock one up (he said, tongue in cheek) for the common man. t t _/\_ On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 4:15 PM, stevetrapp <stevetrapp@q.com> wrote: > Tom, > Me too. I agree with your approach. > Steve > M-15 # 335 > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Tom Smith" <openboatt@gmail.com> > To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < > montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> > Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2014 1:48 PM > Subject: Re: M_Boats: Removing stubborn clamcleat > > > >I haven't taken the residue off yet, Thomas, but I'll be doing that soon. > > I'm sizing the cleat down as I've adopted a 1/4 low stretch line for the > > jib halyard. The exiting large cleat, though not in bad shape, allowed > the > > halyard to slip a bit under hard use. > > > > Because I have a phobia about drilling holes in my boat, I'm going to > > fashion a cleat pedestal that will allow me to use the existing holes, > and > > change the angle of the lead a bit to improve line capture. I'll keep > you > > posted. t > > > > > > > > t _/\_ > > > > > > On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 12:02 PM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com > >wrote: > > > >> Will you try "Goo gone" to get off the residue or did the thing come off > >> cleanly? > >> > >> > >> On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 11:04 AM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> > wrote: > >> > >> > To report back, I used a combination of my trusty Milwaukee heat gun > >> plus a > >> > stiff putty knife to remove this cleat. Worked well. Once I got the > >> knife > >> > started at the end, I simply heated the blade and made slow progress > >> until > >> > the cleat popped off. Thanks for the tips sailors. t > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > t _/\_ > >> > > >> > > >> > On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 4:16 PM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> > wrote: > >> > > >> > > Good idea. Now where did I put that old stratocaster? > >> > > > >> > > I don't think it's 5200, thank goodness. t > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > t _/\_ > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 1:55 PM, <swwheatley@comcast.net> wrote: > >> > > > >> > >> One old trick is to take a thin guitar string and use it to "saw" > back > >> > >> and forth under the fitting. Also, is there any chance someone > bedded > >> > the > >> > >> cleat with 3M 5200? In that case, trying to pry it off almost > >> certainly > >> > >> will damage the deck. I avoid that stuff like the plague but I > >> > understand > >> > >> someone does sell a solvent for it. > >> > >> > >> > >> ----- Original Message ----- > >> > >> > >> > >> From: "Tom Smith" <openboatt@gmail.com> > >> > >> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < > >> > >> montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> > >> > >> Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2014 2:49:49 PM > >> > >> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Removing stubborn clamcleat > >> > >> > >> > >> Thanks Gary. I like the many solutions approach--I don't have to > make > >> a > >> > >> decision that way. And yes, heat + solvent could very well lead to > too > >> > >> much adventure... t > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> t _/\_ > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 11:35 AM, <GILASAILR@aol.com> wrote: > >> > >> > >> > >> > Tom, > >> > >> > > >> > >> > Don't apply heat and solvent at same time - more contemplation > has > >> > >> occurred > >> > >> > - we think that may have negative effects unless your insurance > >> > coverage > >> > >> > is exceptional. > >> > >> > > >> > >> > GO duh > >> > >> > > >> > >> > > >> > >> > In a message dated 1/14/2014 12:32:42 P.M. US Mountain Standard > >> Time, > >> > >> > GILASAILR@aol.com writes: > >> > >> > > >> > >> > Tom, > >> > >> > > >> > >> > A little solvent of your choice -lacquer thinner, acetone helps > - my > >> > >> genoa > >> > >> > > >> > >> > camcleat was 'grown on' and that helped - heat helps -we have > that > >> in > >> > >> > abundance down here- left a lot of residue - dark brown bedding > >> > compnd - > >> > >> > used > >> > >> > everything in the quiver - finally a brass brush & acetone + an > >> exacto > >> > >> > knife > >> > >> > blade (#7) to clean out the last bits - lotsa contemplative time > >> > whilst > >> > >> > scraping and pondering the real meaning of life. After that > exercise > >> > - I > >> > >> > had > >> > >> > it ALL figgered out - I am a self actualized boat grunt! > >> > >> > > >> > >> > Give it hell! > >> > >> > GO - > >> > >> > going racing agin the big guns this weekend! 2014 WICR/Potter > >> > >> > Invitational > >> > >> > > >> > >> > > >> > >> > In a message dated 1/14/2014 11:04:03 A.M. US Mountain Standard > >> Time, > >> > >> > jerry@jerrymontgomery.org writes: > >> > >> > > >> > >> > Tom- I don't know of a sure cure, but if you made a little, > sharp, > >> > >> > hardwood > >> > >> > wedge and just got it started, then tapping it in more as the > cleat > >> > >> > loosened > >> > >> > up, it would probably work, I've done that before with no > problems. > >> > >> > > >> > >> > It's probably just frozen on! > >> > >> > > >> > >> > jerry > >> > >> > ----- Original Message ----- > >> > >> > From: "Tom Smith" <openboatt@gmail.com> > >> > >> > To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" > >> > >> > <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> > >> > >> > Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2014 8:58 AM > >> > >> > Subject: M_Boats: Removing stubborn clamcleat > >> > >> > > >> > >> > > >> > >> > > I'm changing out the foresail halyard clamcleat on the > cabin-top > >> of > >> > my > >> > >> > > M17. Man, that baby is on there. Removed the bolts/nuts, but > she > >> no > >> > >> > want > >> > >> > > to move. I hesitate to pry because it's so well seated I'm > afraid > >> a > >> > >> > chunk > >> > >> > > of 'glass will come up too. > >> > >> > > > >> > >> > > Any suggestions on how to get this thing loosened up? The > careful > >> > >> > > application of heat? Some kind of solvent? > >> > >> > > > >> > >> > > Suggestions appreciated. Tom > >> > >> > > > >> > >> > > > >> > >> > > t _/\_ > >> > >> > > > >> > >> > > >> > >> > > >> > >> > -- > >> > >> > I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. > >> > >> > SPAMfighter has removed 9866 of my spam emails to date. > >> > >> > Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len > >> > >> > > >> > >> > Do you have a slow PC? Try a Free scan > >> > >> > http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen > >> > >> > > >> > >> > > >> > >> > > >> > >> > > >> > >> > > >> > >> > > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > > > >> > > >> > > > > > > ----- > > No virus found in this message. > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > Version: 2013.0.3462 / Virus Database: 3681/7005 - Release Date: 01/15/14 > > >
participants (6)
-
GILASAILR＠aol.com -
Rick Davies -
stevetrapp -
swwheatley＠comcast.net -
Thomas Buzzi -
Tom Smith