Re: M_Boats: Now What Have I Gotten Myself Into? Major Transom Repair
Henry, You are correct in believing the interior was repaired due to wrapping the transom edge OVER the top and into the interior of the cockpit area. I also had a large number of holes in the transom to fill - both sides. You can 'get away' with wrapping the tape to the top edge just be sure to cut enough away to allow for the addition of the tape - you will be rebuilding the edge with tape -(bi-axial is your friend) and grinding it back to a suitable contour. I did not take photos of the whole process as I didn't intend to post it - someone asked and now see part of the rest of the story! I would use plywood (epoxy and hi density filler make great slurry for bonding after parts have been coated with 'neat' epoxy') Use the old skin as a base for finishing your transom skin - save the H.I.N. and keep it clearly visible! Carbon is not necessary here. Glass is proper application as there will be flex at joint. Use epoxy for the repair as polyester does not provide a good bond. Good time to fill all extra holes and over drill and back fill the ones you will retain. Good Luck Have Fun, Ask any ?'s you need and Make sure to sail 'Chiquita' while you work. Take Care Have fUn ! GO In a message dated 7/11/2014 9:59:35 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, heinzir@gmail.com writes: Thanks for the reply Dave, There aren't any Suzuki dealers or repair shops around here that I know of and I have not yest seen any used ones on Craigslist in the last 6 months. The Evinrudes are the most popular around here. I'd like to try one to see if it fits. Yes, I have looked at Gary O's pictures on the MSOG site as well as all of the others, including your very nice SWEET PEA. I've been trying to educate myself and have studied every picture or commentary I could find. I have been reading the archives of this list starting from the beginning. There is so much information my little brain can't contain it all! Please excuse me if some of my questions are redundant, having already been discussed in the archives. In Gary's transom repair pictures he shows some fiberglass work on the cockpit side of the transom. I'm guessing that is because of overlapping the new fiberglass over the top to secure the hull/deck joint. The pictures aren't clear on this. I would like to avoid having to paint the inside of the cockpit if possible. Is it absolutely necessary to overlap? If so, could I just cover the top of the transom without going down the inside transom face? This is where I was thinking of using carbon fiber tape. Thanks! Henry On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 11:21 AM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Henry:
very very common for the damage you are seeing to be caused by a improperly installed outboard motor bracket, or the outboard was left on the bracket when she was going down the highway. the M17 sails best if you use the cutout for the outboard. much better boat balance. not all outboards will fit in the cutout ... the Suzuki 4HP and 6HP (same motor, just different carb) do work in the cutout.
here is an outline on how to fix (your boat is much worse than pictured, but will give you an idea of how to proceed) -
http://www.msogphotosite.com/lbgftransom.html
(click on the spaces where the pictures should be to see a picture. the www-site isn't working correctly as it uses out-of-date code.)
doing alternating layers of fiberglass and carbon fiber is fine as the two materials will not conflict with each other. you really don't need to do carbon fiber, but if it makes you sleep better at night ...
-- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 10:03 AM, Henry Rodriguez <heinzir@gmail.com> wrote:
Yep!
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 9:30 AM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Henry:
from you photo it looks like your boat has/had a motor mount on the transom (instead of using the cutout for the motor as Jerry & Lyly designed). correct?
-- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
before i started to work 'in the bizz' i exchanged many emails with Gary about how to do a transom repair on the 'old deck' M17s. i had found an M17 that had this cracking along the transom/hull joint and was wondering how hard the work would be to conduct a repair. Gary was very patient and covered everything in detail. i choose to 'take a pass' on the M17 (more reasons than the transom); but felt that if i had 'taken on the challenge' Gary would have helped me through the process. Henry, you have lots of folks to provide technical and emotional support as you continue your work! -- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
And I'm loving it! Thanks! On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 6:03 PM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
before i started to work 'in the bizz' i exchanged many emails with Gary about how to do a transom repair on the 'old deck' M17s. i had found an M17 that had this cracking along the transom/hull joint and was wondering how hard the work would be to conduct a repair. Gary was very patient and covered everything in detail. i choose to 'take a pass' on the M17 (more reasons than the transom); but felt that if i had 'taken on the challenge' Gary would have helped me through the process.
Henry, you have lots of folks to provide technical and emotional support as you continue your work!
-- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
Thanks for all of the encouragement, everyone. I managed to get the plywood out. The course of repair seems fairly straightforward. I posted more pictures at https://picasaweb.google.co <https://picasaweb.google.copm>m/heinzir or https://plus.google.com/photos/101215806559438798863/albums/6034646308745515... On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 5:56 PM, GILASAILR--- via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Henry,
You are correct in believing the interior was repaired due to wrapping the transom edge OVER the top and into the interior of the cockpit area. I also had a large number of holes in the transom to fill - both sides.
You can 'get away' with wrapping the tape to the top edge just be sure to cut enough away to allow for the addition of the tape - you will be rebuilding the edge with tape -(bi-axial is your friend) and grinding it back to a suitable contour. I did not take photos of the whole process as I didn't intend to post it - someone asked and now see part of the rest of the story!
I would use plywood (epoxy and hi density filler make great slurry for bonding after parts have been coated with 'neat' epoxy') Use the old skin as a base for finishing your transom skin - save the H.I.N. and keep it clearly visible! Carbon is not necessary here. Glass is proper application as there will be flex at joint.
Use epoxy for the repair as polyester does not provide a good bond. Good time to fill all extra holes and over drill and back fill the ones you will retain.
Good Luck Have Fun, Ask any ?'s you need and Make sure to sail 'Chiquita' while you work.
Take Care Have fUn !
GO
In a message dated 7/11/2014 9:59:35 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, heinzir@gmail.com writes:
Thanks for the reply Dave, There aren't any Suzuki dealers or repair shops around here that I know of and I have not yest seen any used ones on Craigslist in the last 6 months. The Evinrudes are the most popular around here. I'd like to try one to see if it fits.
Yes, I have looked at Gary O's pictures on the MSOG site as well as all of the others, including your very nice SWEET PEA. I've been trying to educate myself and have studied every picture or commentary I could find. I have been reading the archives of this list starting from the beginning. There is so much information my little brain can't contain it all! Please excuse me if some of my questions are redundant, having already been discussed in the archives.
In Gary's transom repair pictures he shows some fiberglass work on the cockpit side of the transom. I'm guessing that is because of overlapping the new fiberglass over the top to secure the hull/deck joint. The pictures aren't clear on this. I would like to avoid having to paint the inside of the cockpit if possible. Is it absolutely necessary to overlap? If so, could I just cover the top of the transom without going down the inside transom face? This is where I was thinking of using carbon fiber tape.
Thanks!
Henry
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 11:21 AM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Henry:
very very common for the damage you are seeing to be caused by a improperly installed outboard motor bracket, or the outboard was left on the bracket when she was going down the highway. the M17 sails best if you use the cutout for the outboard. much better boat balance. not all outboards will fit in the cutout ... the Suzuki 4HP and 6HP (same motor, just different carb) do work in the cutout.
here is an outline on how to fix (your boat is much worse than pictured, but will give you an idea of how to proceed) -
http://www.msogphotosite.com/lbgftransom.html
(click on the spaces where the pictures should be to see a picture. the www-site isn't working correctly as it uses out-of-date code.)
doing alternating layers of fiberglass and carbon fiber is fine as the two materials will not conflict with each other. you really don't need to do carbon fiber, but if it makes you sleep better at night ...
-- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 10:03 AM, Henry Rodriguez <heinzir@gmail.com> wrote:
Yep!
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 9:30 AM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Henry:
from you photo it looks like your boat has/had a motor mount on the transom (instead of using the cutout for the motor as Jerry & Lyly designed). correct?
-- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
Great shots, Henry. Great to know what the inside of my own transom looks like. Tom B On Sat, Jul 12, 2014 at 12:01 PM, Henry Rodriguez <heinzir@gmail.com> wrote:
Thanks for all of the encouragement, everyone.
I managed to get the plywood out. The course of repair seems fairly straightforward.
I posted more pictures at https://picasaweb.google.co <https://picasaweb.google.copm>m/heinzir or
https://plus.google.com/photos/101215806559438798863/albums/6034646308745515...
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 5:56 PM, GILASAILR--- via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Henry,
You are correct in believing the interior was repaired due to wrapping the transom edge OVER the top and into the interior of the cockpit area. I also had a large number of holes in the transom to fill - both sides.
You can 'get away' with wrapping the tape to the top edge just be sure to cut enough away to allow for the addition of the tape - you will be rebuilding the edge with tape -(bi-axial is your friend) and grinding it back to a suitable contour. I did not take photos of the whole process as I didn't intend to post it - someone asked and now see part of the rest of the story!
I would use plywood (epoxy and hi density filler make great slurry for bonding after parts have been coated with 'neat' epoxy') Use the old skin as a base for finishing your transom skin - save the H.I.N. and keep it clearly visible! Carbon is not necessary here. Glass is proper application as there will be flex at joint.
Use epoxy for the repair as polyester does not provide a good bond. Good time to fill all extra holes and over drill and back fill the ones you will retain.
Good Luck Have Fun, Ask any ?'s you need and Make sure to sail 'Chiquita' while you work.
Take Care Have fUn !
GO
In a message dated 7/11/2014 9:59:35 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, heinzir@gmail.com writes:
Thanks for the reply Dave, There aren't any Suzuki dealers or repair shops around here that I know of and I have not yest seen any used ones on Craigslist in the last 6 months. The Evinrudes are the most popular around here. I'd like to try one to see if it fits.
Yes, I have looked at Gary O's pictures on the MSOG site as well as all of the others, including your very nice SWEET PEA. I've been trying to educate myself and have studied every picture or commentary I could find. I have been reading the archives of this list starting from the beginning. There is so much information my little brain can't contain it all! Please excuse me if some of my questions are redundant, having already been discussed in the archives.
In Gary's transom repair pictures he shows some fiberglass work on the cockpit side of the transom. I'm guessing that is because of overlapping the new fiberglass over the top to secure the hull/deck joint. The pictures aren't clear on this. I would like to avoid having to paint the inside of the cockpit if possible. Is it absolutely necessary to overlap? If so, could I just cover the top of the transom without going down the inside transom face? This is where I was thinking of using carbon fiber tape.
Thanks!
Henry
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 11:21 AM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Henry:
very very common for the damage you are seeing to be caused by a improperly installed outboard motor bracket, or the outboard was left on the bracket when she was going down the highway. the M17 sails best if you use the cutout for the outboard. much better boat balance. not all outboards will fit in the cutout ... the Suzuki 4HP and 6HP (same motor, just different carb) do work in the cutout.
here is an outline on how to fix (your boat is much worse than pictured, but will give you an idea of how to proceed) -
http://www.msogphotosite.com/lbgftransom.html
(click on the spaces where the pictures should be to see a picture. the www-site isn't working correctly as it uses out-of-date code.)
doing alternating layers of fiberglass and carbon fiber is fine as the two materials will not conflict with each other. you really don't need to do carbon fiber, but if it makes you sleep better at night ...
-- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 10:03 AM, Henry Rodriguez <heinzir@gmail.com
wrote:
Yep!
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 9:30 AM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com
wrote:
Henry:
from you photo it looks like your boat has/had a motor mount on the transom (instead of using the cutout for the motor as Jerry & Lyly designed). correct?
-- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
Henry: I think you are going about this the right way and it looks like you are making good progress. While you have it torn apart back there, take a close look at the molded in cockpit drain. Some of those coming out of salt water have had to be replaced. Your best access to it is now. Howard On Jul 12, 2014, at 12:01 PM, Henry Rodriguez wrote:
Thanks for all of the encouragement, everyone.
I managed to get the plywood out. The course of repair seems fairly straightforward.
I posted more pictures at https://picasaweb.google.co <https://picasaweb.google.copm>m/heinzir or https://plus.google.com/photos/101215806559438798863/albums/6034646308745515...
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 5:56 PM, GILASAILR--- via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Henry,
You are correct in believing the interior was repaired due to wrapping the transom edge OVER the top and into the interior of the cockpit area. I also had a large number of holes in the transom to fill - both sides.
You can 'get away' with wrapping the tape to the top edge just be sure to cut enough away to allow for the addition of the tape - you will be rebuilding the edge with tape -(bi-axial is your friend) and grinding it back to a suitable contour. I did not take photos of the whole process as I didn't intend to post it - someone asked and now see part of the rest of the story!
I would use plywood (epoxy and hi density filler make great slurry for bonding after parts have been coated with 'neat' epoxy') Use the old skin as a base for finishing your transom skin - save the H.I.N. and keep it clearly visible! Carbon is not necessary here. Glass is proper application as there will be flex at joint.
Use epoxy for the repair as polyester does not provide a good bond. Good time to fill all extra holes and over drill and back fill the ones you will retain.
Good Luck Have Fun, Ask any ?'s you need and Make sure to sail 'Chiquita' while you work.
Take Care Have fUn !
GO
In a message dated 7/11/2014 9:59:35 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, heinzir@gmail.com writes:
Thanks for the reply Dave, There aren't any Suzuki dealers or repair shops around here that I know of and I have not yest seen any used ones on Craigslist in the last 6 months. The Evinrudes are the most popular around here. I'd like to try one to see if it fits.
Yes, I have looked at Gary O's pictures on the MSOG site as well as all of the others, including your very nice SWEET PEA. I've been trying to educate myself and have studied every picture or commentary I could find. I have been reading the archives of this list starting from the beginning. There is so much information my little brain can't contain it all! Please excuse me if some of my questions are redundant, having already been discussed in the archives.
In Gary's transom repair pictures he shows some fiberglass work on the cockpit side of the transom. I'm guessing that is because of overlapping the new fiberglass over the top to secure the hull/deck joint. The pictures aren't clear on this. I would like to avoid having to paint the inside of the cockpit if possible. Is it absolutely necessary to overlap? If so, could I just cover the top of the transom without going down the inside transom face? This is where I was thinking of using carbon fiber tape.
Thanks!
Henry
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 11:21 AM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Henry:
very very common for the damage you are seeing to be caused by a improperly installed outboard motor bracket, or the outboard was left on the bracket when she was going down the highway. the M17 sails best if you use the cutout for the outboard. much better boat balance. not all outboards will fit in the cutout ... the Suzuki 4HP and 6HP (same motor, just different carb) do work in the cutout.
here is an outline on how to fix (your boat is much worse than pictured, but will give you an idea of how to proceed) -
http://www.msogphotosite.com/lbgftransom.html
(click on the spaces where the pictures should be to see a picture. the www-site isn't working correctly as it uses out-of-date code.)
doing alternating layers of fiberglass and carbon fiber is fine as the two materials will not conflict with each other. you really don't need to do carbon fiber, but if it makes you sleep better at night ...
-- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 10:03 AM, Henry Rodriguez <heinzir@gmail.com> wrote:
Yep!
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 9:30 AM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Henry:
from you photo it looks like your boat has/had a motor mount on the transom (instead of using the cutout for the motor as Jerry & Lyly designed). correct?
-- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
I am making pretty good progress on rebuilding the transom. More pictures at https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/101215806559438798863/albums/603464630874... Henry On Sat, Jul 12, 2014 at 6:06 PM, Howard Audsley <haudsley@tranquility.net> wrote:
Henry:
I think you are going about this the right way and it looks like you are making good progress.
While you have it torn apart back there, take a close look at the molded in cockpit drain. Some of those coming out of salt water have had to be replaced. Your best access to it is now.
Howard
On Jul 12, 2014, at 12:01 PM, Henry Rodriguez wrote:
Thanks for all of the encouragement, everyone.
I managed to get the plywood out. The course of repair seems fairly straightforward.
I posted more pictures at https://picasaweb.google.co <https://picasaweb.google.copm>m/heinzir or
https://plus.google.com/photos/101215806559438798863/albums/6034646308745515...
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 5:56 PM, GILASAILR--- via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Henry,
You are correct in believing the interior was repaired due to wrapping
the
transom edge OVER the top and into the interior of the cockpit area. I also had a large number of holes in the transom to fill - both sides.
You can 'get away' with wrapping the tape to the top edge just be sure to cut enough away to allow for the addition of the tape - you will be rebuilding the edge with tape -(bi-axial is your friend) and grinding it back to a suitable contour. I did not take photos of the whole process as I didn't intend to post it - someone asked and now see part of the rest of the story!
I would use plywood (epoxy and hi density filler make great slurry for bonding after parts have been coated with 'neat' epoxy') Use the old skin as a base for finishing your transom skin - save the H.I.N. and keep it clearly visible! Carbon is not necessary here. Glass is proper application as there will be flex at joint.
Use epoxy for the repair as polyester does not provide a good bond. Good time to fill all extra holes and over drill and back fill the ones you will retain.
Good Luck Have Fun, Ask any ?'s you need and Make sure to sail 'Chiquita' while you work.
Take Care Have fUn !
GO
In a message dated 7/11/2014 9:59:35 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, heinzir@gmail.com writes:
Thanks for the reply Dave, There aren't any Suzuki dealers or repair shops around here that I know of and I have not yest seen any used ones on Craigslist in the last 6 months. The Evinrudes are the most popular around here. I'd like to try one to see if it fits.
Yes, I have looked at Gary O's pictures on the MSOG site as well as all of the others, including your very nice SWEET PEA. I've been trying to educate myself and have studied every picture or commentary I could find. I have been reading the archives of this list starting from the beginning. There is so much information my little brain can't contain it all! Please excuse me if some of my questions are redundant, having already been discussed in the archives.
In Gary's transom repair pictures he shows some fiberglass work on the cockpit side of the transom. I'm guessing that is because of overlapping the new fiberglass over the top to secure the hull/deck joint. The pictures aren't clear on this. I would like to avoid having to paint the inside of the cockpit if possible. Is it absolutely necessary to overlap? If so, could I just cover the top of the transom without going down the inside transom face? This is where I was thinking of using carbon fiber tape.
Thanks!
Henry
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 11:21 AM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Henry:
very very common for the damage you are seeing to be caused by a improperly installed outboard motor bracket, or the outboard was left on the bracket when she was going down the highway. the M17 sails best if you use the cutout for the outboard. much better boat balance. not all outboards will fit in the cutout ... the Suzuki 4HP and 6HP (same motor, just different carb) do work in the cutout.
here is an outline on how to fix (your boat is much worse than pictured, but will give you an idea of how to proceed) -
http://www.msogphotosite.com/lbgftransom.html
(click on the spaces where the pictures should be to see a picture. the www-site isn't working correctly as it uses out-of-date code.)
doing alternating layers of fiberglass and carbon fiber is fine as the two materials will not conflict with each other. you really don't need to do carbon fiber, but if it makes you sleep better at night ...
-- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 10:03 AM, Henry Rodriguez <heinzir@gmail.com> wrote:
Yep!
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 9:30 AM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Henry:
from you photo it looks like your boat has/had a motor mount on the transom (instead of using the cutout for the motor as Jerry & Lyly designed). correct?
-- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
Keep up the good work! :: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA :: Former M15 owner On Jul 17, 2014 9:04 PM, "Henry Rodriguez" <heinzir@gmail.com> wrote:
I am making pretty good progress on rebuilding the transom. More pictures at
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/101215806559438798863/albums/603464630874...
Henry
On Sat, Jul 12, 2014 at 6:06 PM, Howard Audsley <haudsley@tranquility.net> wrote:
Henry:
I think you are going about this the right way and it looks like you are making good progress.
While you have it torn apart back there, take a close look at the molded in cockpit drain. Some of those coming out of salt water have had to be replaced. Your best access to it is now.
Howard
On Jul 12, 2014, at 12:01 PM, Henry Rodriguez wrote:
Thanks for all of the encouragement, everyone.
I managed to get the plywood out. The course of repair seems fairly straightforward.
I posted more pictures at https://picasaweb.google.co <https://picasaweb.google.copm>m/heinzir or
https://plus.google.com/photos/101215806559438798863/albums/6034646308745515...
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 5:56 PM, GILASAILR--- via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Henry,
You are correct in believing the interior was repaired due to wrapping
the
transom edge OVER the top and into the interior of the cockpit area. I also had a large number of holes in the transom to fill - both sides.
You can 'get away' with wrapping the tape to the top edge just be sure to cut enough away to allow for the addition of the tape - you will be rebuilding the edge with tape -(bi-axial is your friend) and grinding it back to a suitable contour. I did not take photos of the whole process as I didn't intend to post it - someone asked and now see part of the rest of the story!
I would use plywood (epoxy and hi density filler make great slurry for bonding after parts have been coated with 'neat' epoxy') Use the old skin as a base for finishing your transom skin - save the H.I.N. and keep it clearly visible! Carbon is not necessary here. Glass is proper application as there will be flex at joint.
Use epoxy for the repair as polyester does not provide a good bond. Good time to fill all extra holes and over drill and back fill the ones you will retain.
Good Luck Have Fun, Ask any ?'s you need and Make sure to sail 'Chiquita' while you work.
Take Care Have fUn !
GO
In a message dated 7/11/2014 9:59:35 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, heinzir@gmail.com writes:
Thanks for the reply Dave, There aren't any Suzuki dealers or repair shops around here that I know of and I have not yest seen any used ones on Craigslist in the last 6 months. The Evinrudes are the most popular around here. I'd like to try one to see if it fits.
Yes, I have looked at Gary O's pictures on the MSOG site as well as all of the others, including your very nice SWEET PEA. I've been trying to educate myself and have studied every picture or commentary I could find. I have been reading the archives of this list starting from the beginning. There is so much information my little brain can't contain it all! Please excuse me if some of my questions are redundant, having already been discussed in the archives.
In Gary's transom repair pictures he shows some fiberglass work on the cockpit side of the transom. I'm guessing that is because of overlapping the new fiberglass over the top to secure the hull/deck joint. The pictures aren't clear on this. I would like to avoid having to paint the inside of the cockpit if possible. Is it absolutely necessary to overlap? If so, could I just cover the top of the transom without going down the inside transom face? This is where I was thinking of using carbon fiber tape.
Thanks!
Henry
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 11:21 AM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com
wrote:
Henry:
very very common for the damage you are seeing to be caused by a improperly installed outboard motor bracket, or the outboard was left on the bracket when she was going down the highway. the M17 sails best if you use the cutout for the outboard. much better boat balance. not all outboards will fit in the cutout ... the Suzuki 4HP and 6HP (same motor, just different carb) do work in the cutout.
here is an outline on how to fix (your boat is much worse than pictured, but will give you an idea of how to proceed) -
http://www.msogphotosite.com/lbgftransom.html
(click on the spaces where the pictures should be to see a picture. the www-site isn't working correctly as it uses out-of-date code.)
doing alternating layers of fiberglass and carbon fiber is fine as the two materials will not conflict with each other. you really don't need to do carbon fiber, but if it makes you sleep better at night ...
-- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 10:03 AM, Henry Rodriguez < heinzir@gmail.com> wrote:
Yep!
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 9:30 AM, Dave Scobie < scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
> Henry: > > from you photo it looks like your boat has/had a motor mount on the transom > (instead of using the cutout for the motor as Jerry & Lyly designed). > correct? > > > -- > :: Dave Scobie > :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred > :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
I finally got my transom project finished! (life kept getting in the way.) Pictures here: https://plus.google.com/photos/101215806559438798863/albums/6034646308745515... I also potted all of the holes in the deck, mounted some hardware, refinished the exterior wood, etc. My VN23 Chiquita came out of the water today. I hope to get the M17 in the water this week for a couple weeks of "sea trials" before our Minnesota sailing season ends. I have new tanbark sails ordered but don,t know if I'll get them in time. I still have the original 1979 sails! Henry On Thu, Jul 17, 2014 at 11:12 PM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Keep up the good work!
:: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA :: Former M15 owner On Jul 17, 2014 9:04 PM, "Henry Rodriguez" <heinzir@gmail.com> wrote:
I am making pretty good progress on rebuilding the transom. More pictures at
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/101215806559438798863/albums/603464630874...
Henry
On Sat, Jul 12, 2014 at 6:06 PM, Howard Audsley <
haudsley@tranquility.net>
wrote:
Henry:
I think you are going about this the right way and it looks like you are making good progress.
While you have it torn apart back there, take a close look at the molded in cockpit drain. Some of those coming out of salt water have had to be replaced. Your best access to it is now.
Howard
On Jul 12, 2014, at 12:01 PM, Henry Rodriguez wrote:
Thanks for all of the encouragement, everyone.
I managed to get the plywood out. The course of repair seems fairly straightforward.
I posted more pictures at https://picasaweb.google.co <https://picasaweb.google.copm>m/heinzir or
https://plus.google.com/photos/101215806559438798863/albums/6034646308745515...
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 5:56 PM, GILASAILR--- via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Henry,
You are correct in believing the interior was repaired due to
wrapping the
transom edge OVER the top and into the interior of the cockpit area. I also had a large number of holes in the transom to fill - both sides.
You can 'get away' with wrapping the tape to the top edge just be sure to cut enough away to allow for the addition of the tape - you will be rebuilding the edge with tape -(bi-axial is your friend) and grinding it back to a suitable contour. I did not take photos of the whole process as I didn't intend to post it - someone asked and now see part of the rest of the story!
I would use plywood (epoxy and hi density filler make great slurry for bonding after parts have been coated with 'neat' epoxy') Use the old skin as a base for finishing your transom skin - save the H.I.N. and keep it clearly visible! Carbon is not necessary here. Glass is proper application as there will be flex at joint.
Use epoxy for the repair as polyester does not provide a good bond. Good time to fill all extra holes and over drill and back fill the ones you will retain.
Good Luck Have Fun, Ask any ?'s you need and Make sure to sail 'Chiquita' while you work.
Take Care Have fUn !
GO
In a message dated 7/11/2014 9:59:35 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, heinzir@gmail.com writes:
Thanks for the reply Dave, There aren't any Suzuki dealers or repair shops around here that I know of and I have not yest seen any used ones on Craigslist in the last 6 months. The Evinrudes are the most popular around here. I'd like to try one to see if it fits.
Yes, I have looked at Gary O's pictures on the MSOG site as well as all of the others, including your very nice SWEET PEA. I've been trying to educate myself and have studied every picture or commentary I could find. I have been reading the archives of this list starting from the beginning. There is so much information my little brain can't contain it all! Please excuse me if some of my questions are redundant, having already been discussed in the archives.
In Gary's transom repair pictures he shows some fiberglass work on the cockpit side of the transom. I'm guessing that is because of overlapping the new fiberglass over the top to secure the hull/deck joint. The pictures aren't clear on this. I would like to avoid having to paint the inside of the cockpit if possible. Is it absolutely necessary to overlap? If so, could I just cover the top of the transom without going down the inside transom face? This is where I was thinking of using carbon fiber tape.
Thanks!
Henry
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 11:21 AM, Dave Scobie < scoobscobie@gmail.com
wrote:
Henry:
very very common for the damage you are seeing to be caused by a improperly installed outboard motor bracket, or the outboard was left on the bracket when she was going down the highway. the M17 sails best if you use the cutout for the outboard. much better boat balance. not all outboards will fit in the cutout ... the Suzuki 4HP and 6HP (same motor, just different carb) do work in the cutout.
here is an outline on how to fix (your boat is much worse than pictured, but will give you an idea of how to proceed) -
http://www.msogphotosite.com/lbgftransom.html
(click on the spaces where the pictures should be to see a picture. the www-site isn't working correctly as it uses out-of-date code.)
doing alternating layers of fiberglass and carbon fiber is fine as the two materials will not conflict with each other. you really don't need to do carbon fiber, but if it makes you sleep better at night ...
-- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 10:03 AM, Henry Rodriguez < heinzir@gmail.com> wrote:
> Yep! > > > On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 9:30 AM, Dave Scobie < scoobscobie@gmail.com> > wrote: > >> Henry: >> >> from you photo it looks like your boat has/had a motor mount on the > transom >> (instead of using the cutout for the motor as Jerry & Lyly designed). >> correct? >> >> >> -- >> :: Dave Scobie >> :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred >> :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com > > >
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
Henry, You did a great job on the repair. I hope you enjoy what's left of the sailing season. What did you do about the HIN on the transom? Skip -----Original Message----- From: Henry Rodriguez <heinzir@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Wed, Oct 1, 2014 12:54 am Subject: Re: M_Boats: Now What Have I Gotten Myself Into? Major Transom Repair I finally got my transom project finished! (life kept getting in the way.) Pictures here: https://plus.google.com/photos/101215806559438798863/albums/6034646308745515... I also potted all of the holes in the deck, mounted some hardware, refinished the exterior wood, etc. My VN23 Chiquita came out of the water today. I hope to get the M17 in the water this week for a couple weeks of "sea trials" before our Minnesota sailing season ends. I have new tanbark sails ordered but don,t know if I'll get them in time. I still have the original 1979 sails! Henry On Thu, Jul 17, 2014 at 11:12 PM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Keep up the good work!
:: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA :: Former M15 owner On Jul 17, 2014 9:04 PM, "Henry Rodriguez" <heinzir@gmail.com> wrote:
I am making pretty good progress on rebuilding the transom. More pictures at
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/101215806559438798863/albums/603464630874...
Henry
On Sat, Jul 12, 2014 at 6:06 PM, Howard Audsley <
haudsley@tranquility.net>
wrote:
Henry:
I think you are going about this the right way and it looks like you are making good progress.
While you have it torn apart back there, take a close look at the molded in cockpit drain. Some of those coming out of salt water have had to be replaced. Your best access to it is now.
Howard
On Jul 12, 2014, at 12:01 PM, Henry Rodriguez wrote:
Thanks for all of the encouragement, everyone.
I managed to get the plywood out. The course of repair seems fairly straightforward.
I posted more pictures at https://picasaweb.google.co <https://picasaweb.google.copm>m/heinzir or
https://plus.google.com/photos/101215806559438798863/albums/6034646308745515...
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 5:56 PM, GILASAILR--- via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Henry,
You are correct in believing the interior was repaired due to
wrapping the
transom edge OVER the top and into the interior of the cockpit area. I also had a large number of holes in the transom to fill - both sides.
You can 'get away' with wrapping the tape to the top edge just be sure to cut enough away to allow for the addition of the tape - you will be rebuilding the edge with tape -(bi-axial is your friend) and grinding it back to a suitable contour. I did not take photos of the whole process as I didn't intend to post it - someone asked and now see part of the rest of the story!
I would use plywood (epoxy and hi density filler make great slurry for bonding after parts have been coated with 'neat' epoxy') Use the old skin as a base for finishing your transom skin - save the H.I.N. and keep it clearly visible! Carbon is not necessary here. Glass is proper application as there will be flex at joint.
Use epoxy for the repair as polyester does not provide a good bond. Good time to fill all extra holes and over drill and back fill the ones you will retain.
Good Luck Have Fun, Ask any ?'s you need and Make sure to sail 'Chiquita' while you work.
Take Care Have fUn !
GO
In a message dated 7/11/2014 9:59:35 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, heinzir@gmail.com writes:
Thanks for the reply Dave, There aren't any Suzuki dealers or repair shops around here that I know of and I have not yest seen any used ones on Craigslist in the last 6 months. The Evinrudes are the most popular around here. I'd like to try one to see if it fits.
Yes, I have looked at Gary O's pictures on the MSOG site as well as all of the others, including your very nice SWEET PEA. I've been trying to educate myself and have studied every picture or commentary I could find. I have been reading the archives of this list starting from the beginning. There is so much information my little brain can't contain it all! Please excuse me if some of my questions are redundant, having already been discussed in the archives.
In Gary's transom repair pictures he shows some fiberglass work on the cockpit side of the transom. I'm guessing that is because of overlapping the new fiberglass over the top to secure the hull/deck joint. The pictures aren't clear on this. I would like to avoid having to paint the inside of the cockpit if possible. Is it absolutely necessary to overlap? If so, could I just cover the top of the transom without going down the inside transom face? This is where I was thinking of using carbon fiber tape.
Thanks!
Henry
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 11:21 AM, Dave Scobie < scoobscobie@gmail.com
wrote:
Henry:
very very common for the damage you are seeing to be caused by a improperly installed outboard motor bracket, or the outboard was left on the bracket when she was going down the highway. the M17 sails best if you use the cutout for the outboard. much better boat balance. not all outboards will fit in the cutout ... the Suzuki 4HP and 6HP (same motor, just different carb) do work in the cutout.
here is an outline on how to fix (your boat is much worse than pictured, but will give you an idea of how to proceed) -
http://www.msogphotosite.com/lbgftransom.html
(click on the spaces where the pictures should be to see a picture. the www-site isn't working correctly as it uses out-of-date code.)
doing alternating layers of fiberglass and carbon fiber is fine as the two materials will not conflict with each other. you really don't need to do carbon fiber, but if it makes you sleep better at night ...
-- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 10:03 AM, Henry Rodriguez < heinzir@gmail.com> wrote:
> Yep! > > > On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 9:30 AM, Dave Scobie < scoobscobie@gmail.com> > wrote: > >> Henry: >> >> from you photo it looks like your boat has/had a motor mount on the > transom >> (instead of using the cutout for the motor as Jerry & Lyly designed). >> correct? >> >> >> -- >> :: Dave Scobie >> :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred >> :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com > > >
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
Nothing so far. I do have good pictures of the original. I might have my granddaughter engrave the number on the transom with one of those cheap little engraving tools. -----Original Message----- From: "Skip Campion via montgomery_boats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: 10/1/2014 6:28 AM To: "montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Now What Have I Gotten Myself Into? Major Transom Repair Henry, You did a great job on the repair. I hope you enjoy what's left of the sailing season. What did you do about the HIN on the transom? Skip -----Original Message----- From: Henry Rodriguez <heinzir@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Wed, Oct 1, 2014 12:54 am Subject: Re: M_Boats: Now What Have I Gotten Myself Into? Major Transom Repair I finally got my transom project finished! (life kept getting in the way.) Pictures here: https://plus.google.com/photos/101215806559438798863/albums/6034646308745515... I also potted all of the holes in the deck, mounted some hardware, refinished the exterior wood, etc. My VN23 Chiquita came out of the water today. I hope to get the M17 in the water this week for a couple weeks of "sea trials" before our Minnesota sailing season ends. I have new tanbark sails ordered but don,t know if I'll get them in time. I still have the original 1979 sails! Henry On Thu, Jul 17, 2014 at 11:12 PM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Keep up the good work!
:: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA :: Former M15 owner On Jul 17, 2014 9:04 PM, "Henry Rodriguez" <heinzir@gmail.com> wrote:
I am making pretty good progress on rebuilding the transom. More pictures at
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/101215806559438798863/albums/603464630874...
Henry
On Sat, Jul 12, 2014 at 6:06 PM, Howard Audsley <
haudsley@tranquility.net>
wrote:
Henry:
I think you are going about this the right way and it looks like you are making good progress.
While you have it torn apart back there, take a close look at the molded in cockpit drain. Some of those coming out of salt water have had to be replaced. Your best access to it is now.
Howard
On Jul 12, 2014, at 12:01 PM, Henry Rodriguez wrote:
Thanks for all of the encouragement, everyone.
I managed to get the plywood out. The course of repair seems fairly straightforward.
I posted more pictures at https://picasaweb.google.co <https://picasaweb.google.copm>m/heinzir or
https://plus.google.com/photos/101215806559438798863/albums/6034646308745515...
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 5:56 PM, GILASAILR--- via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Henry,
You are correct in believing the interior was repaired due to
wrapping the
transom edge OVER the top and into the interior of the cockpit area. I also had a large number of holes in the transom to fill - both sides.
You can 'get away' with wrapping the tape to the top edge just be sure to cut enough away to allow for the addition of the tape - you will be rebuilding the edge with tape -(bi-axial is your friend) and grinding it back to a suitable contour. I did not take photos of the whole process as I didn't intend to post it - someone asked and now see part of the rest of the story!
I would use plywood (epoxy and hi density filler make great slurry for bonding after parts have been coated with 'neat' epoxy') Use the old skin as a base for finishing your transom skin - save the H.I.N. and keep it clearly visible! Carbon is not necessary here. Glass is proper application as there will be flex at joint.
Use epoxy for the repair as polyester does not provide a good bond. Good time to fill all extra holes and over drill and back fill the ones you will retain.
Good Luck Have Fun, Ask any ?'s you need and Make sure to sail 'Chiquita' while you work.
Take Care Have fUn !
GO
In a message dated 7/11/2014 9:59:35 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, heinzir@gmail.com writes:
Thanks for the reply Dave, There aren't any Suzuki dealers or repair shops around here that I know of and I have not yest seen any used ones on Craigslist in the last 6 months. The Evinrudes are the most popular around here. I'd like to try one to see if it fits.
Yes, I have looked at Gary O's pictures on the MSOG site as well as all of the others, including your very nice SWEET PEA. I've been trying to educate myself and have studied every picture or commentary I could find. I have been reading the archives of this list starting from the beginning. There is so much information my little brain can't contain it all! Please excuse me if some of my questions are redundant, having already been discussed in the archives.
In Gary's transom repair pictures he shows some fiberglass work on the cockpit side of the transom. I'm guessing that is because of overlapping the new fiberglass over the top to secure the hull/deck joint. The pictures aren't clear on this. I would like to avoid having to paint the inside of the cockpit if possible. Is it absolutely necessary to overlap? If so, could I just cover the top of the transom without going down the inside transom face? This is where I was thinking of using carbon fiber tape.
Thanks!
Henry
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 11:21 AM, Dave Scobie < scoobscobie@gmail.com
wrote:
Henry:
very very common for the damage you are seeing to be caused by a improperly installed outboard motor bracket, or the outboard was left on the bracket when she was going down the highway. the M17 sails best if you use the cutout for the outboard. much better boat balance. not all outboards will fit in the cutout ... the Suzuki 4HP and 6HP (same motor, just different carb) do work in the cutout.
here is an outline on how to fix (your boat is much worse than pictured, but will give you an idea of how to proceed) -
http://www.msogphotosite.com/lbgftransom.html
(click on the spaces where the pictures should be to see a picture. the www-site isn't working correctly as it uses out-of-date code.)
doing alternating layers of fiberglass and carbon fiber is fine as the two materials will not conflict with each other. you really don't need to do carbon fiber, but if it makes you sleep better at night ...
-- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 10:03 AM, Henry Rodriguez < heinzir@gmail.com> wrote:
> Yep! > > > On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 9:30 AM, Dave Scobie < scoobscobie@gmail.com> > wrote: > >> Henry: >> >> from you photo it looks like your boat has/had a motor mount on the > transom >> (instead of using the cutout for the motor as Jerry & Lyly designed). >> correct? >> >> >> -- >> :: Dave Scobie >> :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred >> :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com > > >
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
Great job! In the old location on the transom engrave the HIN deeply into the fiberglass. Digits need to be 1/2" tall. :: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA :: Former M15 owner On Oct 1, 2014 5:51 AM, "Henry Rodriguez" <heinzir@gmail.com> wrote:
Nothing so far. I do have good pictures of the original. I might have my granddaughter engrave the number on the transom with one of those cheap little engraving tools.
-----Original Message----- From: "Skip Campion via montgomery_boats" < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: 10/1/2014 6:28 AM To: "montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com" < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Now What Have I Gotten Myself Into? Major Transom Repair
Henry,
You did a great job on the repair. I hope you enjoy what's left of the sailing season. What did you do about the HIN on the transom?
Skip
-----Original Message----- From: Henry Rodriguez <heinzir@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Wed, Oct 1, 2014 12:54 am Subject: Re: M_Boats: Now What Have I Gotten Myself Into? Major Transom Repair
I finally got my transom project finished! (life kept getting in the way.) Pictures here:
https://plus.google.com/photos/101215806559438798863/albums/6034646308745515...
I also potted all of the holes in the deck, mounted some hardware, refinished the exterior wood, etc. My VN23 Chiquita came out of the water today. I hope to get the M17 in the water this week for a couple weeks of "sea trials" before our Minnesota sailing season ends. I have new tanbark sails ordered but don,t know if I'll get them in time. I still have the original 1979 sails!
Henry
On Thu, Jul 17, 2014 at 11:12 PM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Keep up the good work!
:: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA :: Former M15 owner On Jul 17, 2014 9:04 PM, "Henry Rodriguez" <heinzir@gmail.com> wrote:
I am making pretty good progress on rebuilding the transom. More pictures at
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/101215806559438798863/albums/603464630874...
Henry
On Sat, Jul 12, 2014 at 6:06 PM, Howard Audsley <
haudsley@tranquility.net>
wrote:
Henry:
I think you are going about this the right way and it looks like you are making good progress.
While you have it torn apart back there, take a close look at the molded in cockpit drain. Some of those coming out of salt water have had to be replaced. Your best access to it is now.
Howard
On Jul 12, 2014, at 12:01 PM, Henry Rodriguez wrote:
Thanks for all of the encouragement, everyone.
I managed to get the plywood out. The course of repair seems fairly straightforward.
I posted more pictures at https://picasaweb.google.co <https://picasaweb.google.copm>m/heinzir or
https://plus.google.com/photos/101215806559438798863/albums/6034646308745515...
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 5:56 PM, GILASAILR--- via montgomery_boats
<
montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Henry,
You are correct in believing the interior was repaired due to wrapping the transom edge OVER the top and into the interior of the cockpit area. I also had a large number of holes in the transom to fill - both sides.
You can 'get away' with wrapping the tape to the top edge just be sure to cut enough away to allow for the addition of the tape - you will be rebuilding the edge with tape -(bi-axial is your friend) and grinding it back to a suitable contour. I did not take photos of the whole process as I didn't intend to post it - someone asked and now see part of the rest of the story!
I would use plywood (epoxy and hi density filler make great slurry for bonding after parts have been coated with 'neat' epoxy') Use the old skin as a base for finishing your transom skin - save the H.I.N. and keep it clearly visible! Carbon is not necessary here. Glass is proper application as there will be flex at joint.
Use epoxy for the repair as polyester does not provide a good bond. Good time to fill all extra holes and over drill and back fill the ones you will retain.
Good Luck Have Fun, Ask any ?'s you need and Make sure to sail 'Chiquita' while you work.
Take Care Have fUn !
GO
In a message dated 7/11/2014 9:59:35 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, heinzir@gmail.com writes:
Thanks for the reply Dave, There aren't any Suzuki dealers or repair shops around here that I know of and I have not yest seen any used ones on Craigslist in the last 6 months. The Evinrudes are the most popular around here. I'd like to try one to see if it fits.
Yes, I have looked at Gary O's pictures on the MSOG site as well as all of the others, including your very nice SWEET PEA. I've been trying to educate myself and have studied every picture or commentary I could find. I have been reading the archives of this list starting from the beginning. There is so much information my little brain can't contain it all! Please excuse me if some of my questions are redundant, having already been discussed in the archives.
In Gary's transom repair pictures he shows some fiberglass work on the cockpit side of the transom. I'm guessing that is because of overlapping the new fiberglass over the top to secure the hull/deck joint. The pictures aren't clear on this. I would like to avoid having to paint the inside of the cockpit if possible. Is it absolutely necessary to overlap? If so, could I just cover the top of the transom without going down the inside transom face? This is where I was thinking of using carbon fiber tape.
Thanks!
Henry
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 11:21 AM, Dave Scobie < scoobscobie@gmail.com
wrote:
> Henry: > > very very common for the damage you are seeing to be caused by a improperly > installed outboard motor bracket, or the outboard was left on the bracket > when she was going down the highway. the M17 sails best if you use the > cutout for the outboard. much better boat balance. not all outboards will > fit in the cutout ... the Suzuki 4HP and 6HP (same motor, just different > carb) do work in the cutout. > > here is an outline on how to fix (your boat is much worse than pictured, > but will give you an idea of how to proceed) - > > http://www.msogphotosite.com/lbgftransom.html > > (click on the spaces where the pictures should be to see a picture. the > www-site isn't working correctly as it uses out-of-date code.) > > > doing alternating layers of fiberglass and carbon fiber is fine as the two > materials will not conflict with each other. you really don't need to do > carbon fiber, but if it makes you sleep better at night ... > > -- > :: Dave Scobie > :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred > :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com > > > > On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 10:03 AM, Henry Rodriguez < heinzir@gmail.com> > wrote: > >> Yep! >> >> >> On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 9:30 AM, Dave Scobie < scoobscobie@gmail.com> >> wrote: >> >>> Henry: >>> >>> from you photo it looks like your boat has/had a motor mount on the >> transom >>> (instead of using the cutout for the motor as Jerry & Lyly designed). >>> correct? >>> >>> >>> -- >>> :: Dave Scobie >>> :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred >>> :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com >> >> >> >
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
On 01-Oct-14 6:50 AM, Henry Rodriguez wrote: Beautiful job Henry. Thanks for all your "How I did it"photos Connie ex M-15 #400 LEPPO (also red!)
Nothing so far. I do have good pictures of the original. I might have my granddaughter engrave the number on the transom with one of those cheap little engraving tools.
-----Original Message----- From: "Skip Campion via montgomery_boats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: 10/1/2014 6:28 AM To: "montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Now What Have I Gotten Myself Into? Major Transom Repair
Henry,
You did a great job on the repair. I hope you enjoy what's left of the sailing season. What did you do about the HIN on the transom?
Skip
-----Original Message----- From: Henry Rodriguez <heinzir@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Wed, Oct 1, 2014 12:54 am Subject: Re: M_Boats: Now What Have I Gotten Myself Into? Major Transom Repair
I finally got my transom project finished! (life kept getting in the way.) Pictures here:
https://plus.google.com/photos/101215806559438798863/albums/6034646308745515...
I also potted all of the holes in the deck, mounted some hardware, refinished the exterior wood, etc. My VN23 Chiquita came out of the water today. I hope to get the M17 in the water this week for a couple weeks of "sea trials" before our Minnesota sailing season ends. I have new tanbark sails ordered but don,t know if I'll get them in time. I still have the original 1979 sails!
Henry
On Thu, Jul 17, 2014 at 11:12 PM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Keep up the good work!
:: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA :: Former M15 owner On Jul 17, 2014 9:04 PM, "Henry Rodriguez" <heinzir@gmail.com> wrote:
I am making pretty good progress on rebuilding the transom. More pictures at
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/101215806559438798863/albums/603464630874...
Henry
On Sat, Jul 12, 2014 at 6:06 PM, Howard Audsley < haudsley@tranquility.net> wrote:
Henry:
I think you are going about this the right way and it looks like you are making good progress.
While you have it torn apart back there, take a close look at the molded in cockpit drain. Some of those coming out of salt water have had to be replaced. Your best access to it is now.
Howard
On Jul 12, 2014, at 12:01 PM, Henry Rodriguez wrote:
Thanks for all of the encouragement, everyone.
I managed to get the plywood out. The course of repair seems fairly straightforward.
I posted more pictures at https://picasaweb.google.co <https://picasaweb.google.copm>m/heinzir or
https://plus.google.com/photos/101215806559438798863/albums/6034646308745515...
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 5:56 PM, GILASAILR--- via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Henry,
You are correct in believing the interior was repaired due to
wrapping the
transom edge OVER the top and into the interior of the cockpit area. I also had a large number of holes in the transom to fill - both sides.
You can 'get away' with wrapping the tape to the top edge just be sure to cut enough away to allow for the addition of the tape - you will be rebuilding the edge with tape -(bi-axial is your friend) and grinding it back to a suitable contour. I did not take photos of the whole process as I didn't intend to post it - someone asked and now see part of the rest of the story!
I would use plywood (epoxy and hi density filler make great slurry for bonding after parts have been coated with 'neat' epoxy') Use the old skin as a base for finishing your transom skin - save the H.I.N. and keep it clearly visible! Carbon is not necessary here. Glass is proper application as there will be flex at joint.
Use epoxy for the repair as polyester does not provide a good bond. Good time to fill all extra holes and over drill and back fill the ones you will retain.
Good Luck Have Fun, Ask any ?'s you need and Make sure to sail 'Chiquita' while you work.
Take Care Have fUn !
GO
In a message dated 7/11/2014 9:59:35 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, heinzir@gmail.com writes:
Thanks for the reply Dave, There aren't any Suzuki dealers or repair shops around here that I know of and I have not yest seen any used ones on Craigslist in the last 6 months. The Evinrudes are the most popular around here. I'd like to try one to see if it fits.
Yes, I have looked at Gary O's pictures on the MSOG site as well as all of the others, including your very nice SWEET PEA. I've been trying to educate myself and have studied every picture or commentary I could find. I have been reading the archives of this list starting from the beginning. There is so much information my little brain can't contain it all! Please excuse me if some of my questions are redundant, having already been discussed in the archives.
In Gary's transom repair pictures he shows some fiberglass work on the cockpit side of the transom. I'm guessing that is because of overlapping the new fiberglass over the top to secure the hull/deck joint. The pictures aren't clear on this. I would like to avoid having to paint the inside of the cockpit if possible. Is it absolutely necessary to overlap? If so, could I just cover the top of the transom without going down the inside transom face? This is where I was thinking of using carbon fiber tape.
Thanks!
Henry
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 11:21 AM, Dave Scobie < scoobscobie@gmail.com wrote:
> Henry: > > very very common for the damage you are seeing to be caused by a improperly > installed outboard motor bracket, or the outboard was left on the bracket > when she was going down the highway. the M17 sails best if you use the > cutout for the outboard. much better boat balance. not all outboards will > fit in the cutout ... the Suzuki 4HP and 6HP (same motor, just different > carb) do work in the cutout. > > here is an outline on how to fix (your boat is much worse than pictured, > but will give you an idea of how to proceed) - > > http://www.msogphotosite.com/lbgftransom.html > > (click on the spaces where the pictures should be to see a picture. the > www-site isn't working correctly as it uses out-of-date code.) > > > doing alternating layers of fiberglass and carbon fiber is fine as the two > materials will not conflict with each other. you really don't need to do > carbon fiber, but if it makes you sleep better at night ... > > -- > :: Dave Scobie > :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred > :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com > > > > On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 10:03 AM, Henry Rodriguez < heinzir@gmail.com> > wrote: > >> Yep! >> >> >> On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 9:30 AM, Dave Scobie < scoobscobie@gmail.com> >> wrote: >> >>> Henry: >>> >>> from you photo it looks like your boat has/had a motor mount on the >> transom >>> (instead of using the cutout for the motor as Jerry & Lyly designed). >>> correct? >>> >>> >>> -- >>> :: Dave Scobie >>> :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred >>> :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com >> >>
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
Great job, Henry.! Thank you for the pics. I am rehabing a 1977 and hopefully won't have to get into what you did but at least I will know better what I am getting into. Tom B On Tue, Sep 30, 2014 at 11:53 PM, Henry Rodriguez <heinzir@gmail.com> wrote:
I finally got my transom project finished! (life kept getting in the way.) Pictures here:
https://plus.google.com/photos/101215806559438798863/albums/6034646308745515...
I also potted all of the holes in the deck, mounted some hardware, refinished the exterior wood, etc. My VN23 Chiquita came out of the water today. I hope to get the M17 in the water this week for a couple weeks of "sea trials" before our Minnesota sailing season ends. I have new tanbark sails ordered but don,t know if I'll get them in time. I still have the original 1979 sails!
Henry
On Thu, Jul 17, 2014 at 11:12 PM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Keep up the good work!
:: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA :: Former M15 owner On Jul 17, 2014 9:04 PM, "Henry Rodriguez" <heinzir@gmail.com> wrote:
I am making pretty good progress on rebuilding the transom. More pictures at
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/101215806559438798863/albums/603464630874...
Henry
On Sat, Jul 12, 2014 at 6:06 PM, Howard Audsley <
haudsley@tranquility.net>
wrote:
Henry:
I think you are going about this the right way and it looks like you are making good progress.
While you have it torn apart back there, take a close look at the molded in cockpit drain. Some of those coming out of salt water have had to be replaced. Your best access to it is now.
Howard
On Jul 12, 2014, at 12:01 PM, Henry Rodriguez wrote:
Thanks for all of the encouragement, everyone.
I managed to get the plywood out. The course of repair seems fairly straightforward.
I posted more pictures at https://picasaweb.google.co <https://picasaweb.google.copm>m/heinzir or
https://plus.google.com/photos/101215806559438798863/albums/6034646308745515...
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 5:56 PM, GILASAILR--- via montgomery_boats
<
montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Henry,
You are correct in believing the interior was repaired due to wrapping the transom edge OVER the top and into the interior of the cockpit area. I also had a large number of holes in the transom to fill - both sides.
You can 'get away' with wrapping the tape to the top edge just be sure to cut enough away to allow for the addition of the tape - you will be rebuilding the edge with tape -(bi-axial is your friend) and grinding it back to a suitable contour. I did not take photos of the whole process as I didn't intend to post it - someone asked and now see part of the rest of the story!
I would use plywood (epoxy and hi density filler make great slurry for bonding after parts have been coated with 'neat' epoxy') Use the old skin as a base for finishing your transom skin - save the H.I.N. and keep it clearly visible! Carbon is not necessary here. Glass is proper application as there will be flex at joint.
Use epoxy for the repair as polyester does not provide a good bond. Good time to fill all extra holes and over drill and back fill the ones you will retain.
Good Luck Have Fun, Ask any ?'s you need and Make sure to sail 'Chiquita' while you work.
Take Care Have fUn !
GO
In a message dated 7/11/2014 9:59:35 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, heinzir@gmail.com writes:
Thanks for the reply Dave, There aren't any Suzuki dealers or repair shops around here that I know of and I have not yest seen any used ones on Craigslist in the last 6 months. The Evinrudes are the most popular around here. I'd like to try one to see if it fits.
Yes, I have looked at Gary O's pictures on the MSOG site as well as all of the others, including your very nice SWEET PEA. I've been trying to educate myself and have studied every picture or commentary I could find. I have been reading the archives of this list starting from the beginning. There is so much information my little brain can't contain it all! Please excuse me if some of my questions are redundant, having already been discussed in the archives.
In Gary's transom repair pictures he shows some fiberglass work on the cockpit side of the transom. I'm guessing that is because of overlapping the new fiberglass over the top to secure the hull/deck joint. The pictures aren't clear on this. I would like to avoid having to paint the inside of the cockpit if possible. Is it absolutely necessary to overlap? If so, could I just cover the top of the transom without going down the inside transom face? This is where I was thinking of using carbon fiber tape.
Thanks!
Henry
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 11:21 AM, Dave Scobie < scoobscobie@gmail.com
wrote:
> Henry: > > very very common for the damage you are seeing to be caused by a improperly > installed outboard motor bracket, or the outboard was left on the bracket > when she was going down the highway. the M17 sails best if you use the > cutout for the outboard. much better boat balance. not all outboards will > fit in the cutout ... the Suzuki 4HP and 6HP (same motor, just different > carb) do work in the cutout. > > here is an outline on how to fix (your boat is much worse than pictured, > but will give you an idea of how to proceed) - > > http://www.msogphotosite.com/lbgftransom.html > > (click on the spaces where the pictures should be to see a picture. the > www-site isn't working correctly as it uses out-of-date code.) > > > doing alternating layers of fiberglass and carbon fiber is fine as the two > materials will not conflict with each other. you really don't need to do > carbon fiber, but if it makes you sleep better at night ... > > -- > :: Dave Scobie > :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred > :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com > > > > On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 10:03 AM, Henry Rodriguez < heinzir@gmail.com> > wrote: > >> Yep! >> >> >> On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 9:30 AM, Dave Scobie < scoobscobie@gmail.com> >> wrote: >> >>> Henry: >>> >>> from you photo it looks like your boat has/had a motor mount on the >> transom >>> (instead of using the cutout for the motor as Jerry & Lyly designed). >>> correct? >>> >>> >>> -- >>> :: Dave Scobie >>> :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred >>> :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com >> >> >> >
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
Gary, I read your caution about saving the HIN and thought of course, I know that! I had seen from your pictures how carefully you had preserved yours. But my mind completely blocked that out while grinding and I stupidly obliterated it. Anything I can do? I do have a picture of the original, for whatever good that does. I've updated my photo album showing the progress to date: https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/101215806559438798863/albums/603464630874... Henry On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 5:56 PM, GILASAILR--- via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Henry,
You are correct in believing the interior was repaired due to wrapping the transom edge OVER the top and into the interior of the cockpit area. I also had a large number of holes in the transom to fill - both sides.
You can 'get away' with wrapping the tape to the top edge just be sure to cut enough away to allow for the addition of the tape - you will be rebuilding the edge with tape -(bi-axial is your friend) and grinding it back to a suitable contour. I did not take photos of the whole process as I didn't intend to post it - someone asked and now see part of the rest of the story!
I would use plywood (epoxy and hi density filler make great slurry for bonding after parts have been coated with 'neat' epoxy') Use the old skin as a base for finishing your transom skin - save the H.I.N. and keep it clearly visible! Carbon is not necessary here. Glass is proper application as there will be flex at joint.
Use epoxy for the repair as polyester does not provide a good bond. Good time to fill all extra holes and over drill and back fill the ones you will retain.
Good Luck Have Fun, Ask any ?'s you need and Make sure to sail 'Chiquita' while you work.
Take Care Have fUn !
GO
In a message dated 7/11/2014 9:59:35 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, heinzir@gmail.com writes:
Thanks for the reply Dave, There aren't any Suzuki dealers or repair shops around here that I know of and I have not yest seen any used ones on Craigslist in the last 6 months. The Evinrudes are the most popular around here. I'd like to try one to see if it fits.
Yes, I have looked at Gary O's pictures on the MSOG site as well as all of the others, including your very nice SWEET PEA. I've been trying to educate myself and have studied every picture or commentary I could find. I have been reading the archives of this list starting from the beginning. There is so much information my little brain can't contain it all! Please excuse me if some of my questions are redundant, having already been discussed in the archives.
In Gary's transom repair pictures he shows some fiberglass work on the cockpit side of the transom. I'm guessing that is because of overlapping the new fiberglass over the top to secure the hull/deck joint. The pictures aren't clear on this. I would like to avoid having to paint the inside of the cockpit if possible. Is it absolutely necessary to overlap? If so, could I just cover the top of the transom without going down the inside transom face? This is where I was thinking of using carbon fiber tape.
Thanks!
Henry
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 11:21 AM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Henry:
very very common for the damage you are seeing to be caused by a improperly installed outboard motor bracket, or the outboard was left on the bracket when she was going down the highway. the M17 sails best if you use the cutout for the outboard. much better boat balance. not all outboards will fit in the cutout ... the Suzuki 4HP and 6HP (same motor, just different carb) do work in the cutout.
here is an outline on how to fix (your boat is much worse than pictured, but will give you an idea of how to proceed) -
http://www.msogphotosite.com/lbgftransom.html
(click on the spaces where the pictures should be to see a picture. the www-site isn't working correctly as it uses out-of-date code.)
doing alternating layers of fiberglass and carbon fiber is fine as the two materials will not conflict with each other. you really don't need to do carbon fiber, but if it makes you sleep better at night ...
-- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 10:03 AM, Henry Rodriguez <heinzir@gmail.com> wrote:
Yep!
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 9:30 AM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Henry:
from you photo it looks like your boat has/had a motor mount on the transom (instead of using the cutout for the motor as Jerry & Lyly designed). correct?
-- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
Henry, Great action shot!!! (sitting in the cockpit grinding the transom) Next time, I'd like to see more dust flying!! lol As far as the HIN, I wouldn't worry to much about it. As long as you have a clear title showing the HIN and a picture of the old HIN prior to grinding in smooth, you will be able to replace the HIN. All you need to do is go to one of those 'Mall Engraving places', and have a small tag made up showing the HIN. Then you just need to permanently attach the plate to the hull, right where is used to exist. If you want it to look like the original HIN that was recessed into the fiberglass, you could route out the transom, set the plate into the recess and epoxy over it make it water tight. Then, when you paint the transom, no one will ever know the truth. Good luck, so far everything is looking good!!! Skip -----Original Message----- From: Henry Rodriguez <heinzir@gmail.com> To: gilasailr <GILASAILR@aol.com>; For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Fri, Jul 18, 2014 12:15 am Subject: Re: M_Boats: Now What Have I Gotten Myself Into? Major Transom Repair Gary, I read your caution about saving the HIN and thought of course, I know that! I had seen from your pictures how carefully you had preserved yours. But my mind completely blocked that out while grinding and I stupidly obliterated it. Anything I can do? I do have a picture of the original, for whatever good that does. I've updated my photo album showing the progress to date: https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/101215806559438798863/albums/603464630874... Henry On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 5:56 PM, GILASAILR--- via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Henry,
You are correct in believing the interior was repaired due to wrapping the transom edge OVER the top and into the interior of the cockpit area. I also had a large number of holes in the transom to fill - both sides.
You can 'get away' with wrapping the tape to the top edge just be sure to cut enough away to allow for the addition of the tape - you will be rebuilding the edge with tape -(bi-axial is your friend) and grinding it back to a suitable contour. I did not take photos of the whole process as I didn't intend to post it - someone asked and now see part of the rest of the story!
I would use plywood (epoxy and hi density filler make great slurry for bonding after parts have been coated with 'neat' epoxy') Use the old skin as a base for finishing your transom skin - save the H.I.N. and keep it clearly visible! Carbon is not necessary here. Glass is proper application as there will be flex at joint.
Use epoxy for the repair as polyester does not provide a good bond. Good time to fill all extra holes and over drill and back fill the ones you will retain.
Good Luck Have Fun, Ask any ?'s you need and Make sure to sail 'Chiquita' while you work.
Take Care Have fUn !
GO
In a message dated 7/11/2014 9:59:35 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, heinzir@gmail.com writes:
Thanks for the reply Dave, There aren't any Suzuki dealers or repair shops around here that I know of and I have not yest seen any used ones on Craigslist in the last 6 months. The Evinrudes are the most popular around here. I'd like to try one to see if it fits.
Yes, I have looked at Gary O's pictures on the MSOG site as well as all of the others, including your very nice SWEET PEA. I've been trying to educate myself and have studied every picture or commentary I could find. I have been reading the archives of this list starting from the beginning. There is so much information my little brain can't contain it all! Please excuse me if some of my questions are redundant, having already been discussed in the archives.
In Gary's transom repair pictures he shows some fiberglass work on the cockpit side of the transom. I'm guessing that is because of overlapping the new fiberglass over the top to secure the hull/deck joint. The pictures aren't clear on this. I would like to avoid having to paint the inside of the cockpit if possible. Is it absolutely necessary to overlap? If so, could I just cover the top of the transom without going down the inside transom face? This is where I was thinking of using carbon fiber tape.
Thanks!
Henry
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 11:21 AM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Henry:
very very common for the damage you are seeing to be caused by a improperly installed outboard motor bracket, or the outboard was left on the bracket when she was going down the highway. the M17 sails best if you use the cutout for the outboard. much better boat balance. not all outboards will fit in the cutout ... the Suzuki 4HP and 6HP (same motor, just different carb) do work in the cutout.
here is an outline on how to fix (your boat is much worse than pictured, but will give you an idea of how to proceed) -
http://www.msogphotosite.com/lbgftransom.html
(click on the spaces where the pictures should be to see a picture. the www-site isn't working correctly as it uses out-of-date code.)
doing alternating layers of fiberglass and carbon fiber is fine as the two materials will not conflict with each other. you really don't need to do carbon fiber, but if it makes you sleep better at night ...
-- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 10:03 AM, Henry Rodriguez <heinzir@gmail.com> wrote:
Yep!
On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 9:30 AM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Henry:
from you photo it looks like your boat has/had a motor mount on the transom (instead of using the cutout for the motor as Jerry & Lyly designed). correct?
-- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
participants (7)
-
Conbert Benneck -
Dave Scobie -
GILASAILR＠aol.com -
Henry Rodriguez -
Howard Audsley -
Thomas Buzzi -
wcampion＠aol.com