Thin lines aloft help deal with windage (drag and making the hull roll off to leeward). I have found that going to something like 3/8 on the main sheet helps my hands grip the line more comfortably though. <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
On 1/26/2016 9:43 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote: Hi Tom, If you go to a WEST Marine catalog you can find dacron or other special lines, with a small diameter but very high tensile strength. Maybe you might consider replacing a halyard with one of these. More than enough strength for the job, but very small and light weight. Connie
Thin lines aloft help deal with windage (drag and making the hull roll off to leeward). I have found that going to something like 3/8 on the main sheet helps my hands grip the line more comfortably though. <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
I am using 1/8" Dyneema for jib,spinnaker,and main halyards. The 1/8" size is as strong as 1/8" wire (2000 lbs), easy to splice, and is so light it floats. I added a 1/4" cover to the tail end of each halyard to make it easier to handle. I obtained the covers by pulling the cores out of some old 1/4" double braid I had laying around. I threaded the Dyneema through the covers with a small diameter knitting needle. I am going to experiment this spring with adding an additional 5/16 or 3/8" cover over the few feet of halyard tail that actually goes around the winch and into the cleat, the part you really pull on. The covers are strictly for comfort/convenience. The Dyneema alone is extremely strong, lightweight, and has Zero stretch. FWIW, Amsteel Blue 1/8" Dyneema is $0.46/ft at West Marine. We just missed their annual Bulk Rope Sale where, if I remember correctly, it was $.029/ft! Don't be fooled by the name Amsteel Blue. It comes in a variety of colors. APSLTD.com is still having their January rigging sale offering 25% off their regular prices. They also sell 1/8" Amsteel Blue Dyneema for $0.46/ft but the sale price brings it to $0.35. APS has lots of cool information about covering halyards, stripping halyards, etc. They carry just about every kind of sailboat line available and give lots of guidance on choosing the best line for a particular purpose. Their print catalog makes for good winter browsing, ask for one. Henry Monita M17 Chiquita VN 23 On Tuesday, January 26, 2016, Conbert Benneck <chbenneck@gmail.com> wrote:
On 1/26/2016 9:43 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Hi Tom,
If you go to a WEST Marine catalog you can find dacron or other special lines, with a small diameter but very high tensile strength. Maybe you might consider replacing a halyard with one of these. More than enough strength for the job, but very small and light weight.
Connie
Thin lines aloft help deal with windage (drag and making the hull roll off to leeward). I have found that going to something like 3/8 on the main sheet helps my hands grip the line more comfortably though. < https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com < https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
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-- Sent from Gmail Mobile on Windows 10 phone
Henry, I thought of using that stuff too. Am curious how it stands up to being rolled over sheaves like at the mast head, repeatedly. I read it doesn't hold knots well but it is easy to eyesplice. Neat idea about covering it with the outer shell of older lines. Tom B <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 12:39 PM, Henry Rodriguez <heinzir@gmail.com> wrote:
I am using 1/8" Dyneema for jib,spinnaker,and main halyards. The 1/8" size is as strong as 1/8" wire (2000 lbs), easy to splice, and is so light it floats. I added a 1/4" cover to the tail end of each halyard to make it easier to handle. I obtained the covers by pulling the cores out of some old 1/4" double braid I had laying around. I threaded the Dyneema through the covers with a small diameter knitting needle. I am going to experiment this spring with adding an additional 5/16 or 3/8" cover over the few feet of halyard tail that actually goes around the winch and into the cleat, the part you really pull on. The covers are strictly for comfort/convenience. The Dyneema alone is extremely strong, lightweight, and has Zero stretch.
FWIW, Amsteel Blue 1/8" Dyneema is $0.46/ft at West Marine. We just missed their annual Bulk Rope Sale where, if I remember correctly, it was $.029/ft! Don't be fooled by the name Amsteel Blue. It comes in a variety of colors.
APSLTD.com is still having their January rigging sale offering 25% off their regular prices. They also sell 1/8" Amsteel Blue Dyneema for $0.46/ft but the sale price brings it to $0.35.
APS has lots of cool information about covering halyards, stripping halyards, etc. They carry just about every kind of sailboat line available and give lots of guidance on choosing the best line for a particular purpose. Their print catalog makes for good winter browsing, ask for one.
Henry Monita M17 Chiquita VN 23
On Tuesday, January 26, 2016, Conbert Benneck <chbenneck@gmail.com> wrote:
On 1/26/2016 9:43 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Hi Tom,
If you go to a WEST Marine catalog you can find dacron or other special lines, with a small diameter but very high tensile strength. Maybe you might consider replacing a halyard with one of these. More than enough strength for the job, but very small and light weight.
Connie
Thin lines aloft help deal with windage (drag and making the hull roll off to leeward). I have found that going to something like 3/8 on the main sheet helps my hands grip the line more comfortably though. <
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
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https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
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-- Sent from Gmail Mobile on Windows 10 phone
Hi Tom, I don't think the turning radius of the sheaves will be a problem. Dyneema/Spectra is being used to replace towing cables on ocean going tug boats where it is repeatedly wound around winches. Off-road enthusiasts are using it on their truck mounted winches. It is also being used in the logging industry instead of logging chains. I'm sure there is a minimum turning radius for a given diameter of line. I haven't googled it but I don't think the sheaves on our wee ships will cause a problem. (As long as they are grooved for rope, not wire.). The main and jib halyards do not turn 180 degrees on single sheaves anyway. They turn 90 degrees on one side of the mast, go across the masthead, and then turn down 90 degrees on the other side. (Can't find the *~?!^* "degree" key on this keyboard!) Even if the halyard were to lose 50% of its strength because of improper turning radii it would still have a breaking strength of 1000 lb! Tom, any chance of you going to GO's WICR in Phoenix next January? I'm going to do my best to get there (from Minneapolis.). I would love to see your boat in person and steal/ swap ideas! Got some great ideas when I went last year. In the mean time, post lots of pictures! Which brings up another subject: can we post new pictures or albums on the MSOG or MSOG PHOTO sites? I'll post that question on a new thread so as not to hijack this one. Henry On Tuesday, January 26, 2016, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Henry, I thought of using that stuff too. Am curious how it stands up to being rolled over sheaves like at the mast head, repeatedly. I read it doesn't hold knots well but it is easy to eyesplice. Neat idea about covering it with the outer shell of older lines. Tom B < https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com < https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
<#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 12:39 PM, Henry Rodriguez <heinzir@gmail.com <javascript:;>> wrote:
I am using 1/8" Dyneema for jib,spinnaker,and main halyards. The 1/8" size is as strong as 1/8" wire (2000 lbs), easy to splice, and is so light it floats. I added a 1/4" cover to the tail end of each halyard to make it easier to handle. I obtained the covers by pulling the cores out of some old 1/4" double braid I had laying around. I threaded the Dyneema through the covers with a small diameter knitting needle. I am going to experiment this spring with adding an additional 5/16 or 3/8" cover over the few feet of halyard tail that actually goes around the winch and into the cleat, the part you really pull on. The covers are strictly for comfort/convenience. The Dyneema alone is extremely strong, lightweight, and has Zero stretch.
FWIW, Amsteel Blue 1/8" Dyneema is $0.46/ft at West Marine. We just missed their annual Bulk Rope Sale where, if I remember correctly, it was $.029/ft! Don't be fooled by the name Amsteel Blue. It comes in a variety of colors.
APSLTD.com is still having their January rigging sale offering 25% off their regular prices. They also sell 1/8" Amsteel Blue Dyneema for $0.46/ft but the sale price brings it to $0.35.
APS has lots of cool information about covering halyards, stripping halyards, etc. They carry just about every kind of sailboat line available and give lots of guidance on choosing the best line for a particular purpose. Their print catalog makes for good winter browsing, ask for one.
Henry Monita M17 Chiquita VN 23
On Tuesday, January 26, 2016, Conbert Benneck <chbenneck@gmail.com <javascript:;>> wrote:
On 1/26/2016 9:43 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Hi Tom,
If you go to a WEST Marine catalog you can find dacron or other special lines, with a small diameter but very high tensile strength. Maybe you might consider replacing a halyard with one of these. More than enough strength for the job, but very small and light weight.
Connie
Thin lines aloft help deal with windage (drag and making the hull roll off to leeward). I have found that going to something like 3/8 on the main sheet helps my hands grip the line more comfortably though. <
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com <
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
<#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
-- Sent from Gmail Mobile on Windows 10 phone
-- Sent from Gmail Mobile on Windows 10 phone
Hi Henry, Next January is far enough away that it might be possible to include a trip to AZ. in my wife's and my travel wishes for 2017. I would really like to make one of those. It is great fun sailing with similar or same boats. And the other half of the fun is finding out what others do to solve problems or make their boats more comfortable. I am shooting this year for the get together on lake Texoma north of Dallas. It is a 500 mile haul so a good shakedown trip for even longer adventures. Have you tried sleeping aboard your boat where it is stored for the winter? That would be very informative, I bet. I use that "Trailer Sailor " site. Will look into posting some pictures there of my grand bateau. Tom B <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 4:33 PM, Henry Rodriguez <heinzir@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Tom, I don't think the turning radius of the sheaves will be a problem. Dyneema/Spectra is being used to replace towing cables on ocean going tug boats where it is repeatedly wound around winches. Off-road enthusiasts are using it on their truck mounted winches. It is also being used in the logging industry instead of logging chains. I'm sure there is a minimum turning radius for a given diameter of line. I haven't googled it but I don't think the sheaves on our wee ships will cause a problem. (As long as they are grooved for rope, not wire.). The main and jib halyards do not turn 180 degrees on single sheaves anyway. They turn 90 degrees on one side of the mast, go across the masthead, and then turn down 90 degrees on the other side. (Can't find the *~?!^* "degree" key on this keyboard!)
Even if the halyard were to lose 50% of its strength because of improper turning radii it would still have a breaking strength of 1000 lb!
Tom, any chance of you going to GO's WICR in Phoenix next January? I'm going to do my best to get there (from Minneapolis.). I would love to see your boat in person and steal/ swap ideas! Got some great ideas when I went last year. In the mean time, post lots of pictures!
Which brings up another subject: can we post new pictures or albums on the MSOG or MSOG PHOTO sites? I'll post that question on a new thread so as not to hijack this one.
Henry
On Tuesday, January 26, 2016, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Henry, I thought of using that stuff too. Am curious how it stands up to being rolled over sheaves like at the mast head, repeatedly. I read it doesn't hold knots well but it is easy to eyesplice. Neat idea about covering it with the outer shell of older lines. Tom B <
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com <
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
<#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 12:39 PM, Henry Rodriguez <heinzir@gmail.com <javascript:;>> wrote:
I am using 1/8" Dyneema for jib,spinnaker,and main halyards. The 1/8" size is as strong as 1/8" wire (2000 lbs), easy to splice, and is so light it floats. I added a 1/4" cover to the tail end of each halyard to make it easier to handle. I obtained the covers by pulling the cores out of some old 1/4" double braid I had laying around. I threaded the Dyneema through the covers with a small diameter knitting needle. I am going to experiment this spring with adding an additional 5/16 or 3/8" cover over the few feet of halyard tail that actually goes around the winch and into the cleat, the part you really pull on. The covers are strictly for comfort/convenience. The Dyneema alone is extremely strong, lightweight, and has Zero stretch.
FWIW, Amsteel Blue 1/8" Dyneema is $0.46/ft at West Marine. We just missed their annual Bulk Rope Sale where, if I remember correctly, it was $.029/ft! Don't be fooled by the name Amsteel Blue. It comes in a variety of colors.
APSLTD.com is still having their January rigging sale offering 25% off their regular prices. They also sell 1/8" Amsteel Blue Dyneema for $0.46/ft but the sale price brings it to $0.35.
APS has lots of cool information about covering halyards, stripping halyards, etc. They carry just about every kind of sailboat line available and give lots of guidance on choosing the best line for a particular purpose. Their print catalog makes for good winter browsing, ask for one.
Henry Monita M17 Chiquita VN 23
On Tuesday, January 26, 2016, Conbert Benneck <chbenneck@gmail.com <javascript:;>> wrote:
On 1/26/2016 9:43 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Hi Tom,
If you go to a WEST Marine catalog you can find dacron or other special lines, with a small diameter but very high tensile strength. Maybe you might consider replacing a halyard with one of these. More than enough strength for the job, but very small and light weight.
Connie
Thin lines aloft help deal with windage (drag and making the hull roll off to leeward). I have found that going to something like 3/8 on the main sheet helps my hands grip the line more comfortably though. <
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com <
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
<#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
-- Sent from Gmail Mobile on Windows 10 phone
-- Sent from Gmail Mobile on Windows 10 phone
Sleeping outdoors during a Minnesota winter has never been very high on my list of things to do, and it certainly is not going to make my bucket list this year. I don't care if it is on a boat, it is still Outdoors! Tell me more about the Texoma gathering. That is stil a long way for me but might be something to put on the bucket list. Henry On Tuesday, January 26, 2016, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Henry, Next January is far enough away that it might be possible to include a trip to AZ. in my wife's and my travel wishes for 2017. I would really like to make one of those. It is great fun sailing with similar or same boats. And the other half of the fun is finding out what others do to solve problems or make their boats more comfortable. I am shooting this year for the get together on lake Texoma north of Dallas. It is a 500 mile haul so a good shakedown trip for even longer adventures. Have you tried sleeping aboard your boat where it is stored for the winter? That would be very informative, I bet. I use that "Trailer Sailor " site. Will look into posting some pictures there of my grand bateau.
Tom B < https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com < https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
<#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 4:33 PM, Henry Rodriguez <heinzir@gmail.com <javascript:;>> wrote:
Hi Tom, I don't think the turning radius of the sheaves will be a problem. Dyneema/Spectra is being used to replace towing cables on ocean going tug boats where it is repeatedly wound around winches. Off-road enthusiasts are using it on their truck mounted winches. It is also being used in the logging industry instead of logging chains. I'm sure there is a minimum turning radius for a given diameter of line. I haven't googled it but I don't think the sheaves on our wee ships will cause a problem. (As long as they are grooved for rope, not wire.). The main and jib halyards do not turn 180 degrees on single sheaves anyway. They turn 90 degrees on one side of the mast, go across the masthead, and then turn down 90 degrees on the other side. (Can't find the *~?!^* "degree" key on this keyboard!)
Even if the halyard were to lose 50% of its strength because of improper turning radii it would still have a breaking strength of 1000 lb!
Tom, any chance of you going to GO's WICR in Phoenix next January? I'm going to do my best to get there (from Minneapolis.). I would love to see your boat in person and steal/ swap ideas! Got some great ideas when I went last year. In the mean time, post lots of pictures!
Which brings up another subject: can we post new pictures or albums on the MSOG or MSOG PHOTO sites? I'll post that question on a new thread so as not to hijack this one.
Henry
On Tuesday, January 26, 2016, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com <javascript:;>> wrote:
Henry, I thought of using that stuff too. Am curious how it stands up to being rolled over sheaves like at the mast head, repeatedly. I read it doesn't hold knots well but it is easy to eyesplice. Neat idea about covering it with the outer shell of older lines. Tom B <
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com <
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
<#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 12:39 PM, Henry Rodriguez <heinzir@gmail.com <javascript:;> <javascript:;>> wrote:
I am using 1/8" Dyneema for jib,spinnaker,and main halyards. The 1/8" size is as strong as 1/8" wire (2000 lbs), easy to splice, and is so light it floats. I added a 1/4" cover to the tail end of each halyard to make it easier to handle. I obtained the covers by pulling the cores out of some old 1/4" double braid I had laying around. I threaded the Dyneema through the covers with a small diameter knitting needle. I am going to experiment this spring with adding an additional 5/16 or 3/8" cover over the few feet of halyard tail that actually goes around the winch and into the cleat, the part you really pull on. The covers are strictly for comfort/convenience. The Dyneema alone is extremely strong, lightweight, and has Zero stretch.
FWIW, Amsteel Blue 1/8" Dyneema is $0.46/ft at West Marine. We just missed their annual Bulk Rope Sale where, if I remember correctly, it was $.029/ft! Don't be fooled by the name Amsteel Blue. It comes in a variety of colors.
APSLTD.com is still having their January rigging sale offering 25% off their regular prices. They also sell 1/8" Amsteel Blue Dyneema for $0.46/ft but the sale price brings it to $0.35.
APS has lots of cool information about covering halyards, stripping halyards, etc. They carry just about every kind of sailboat line available and give lots of guidance on choosing the best line for a particular purpose. Their print catalog makes for good winter browsing, ask for one.
Henry Monita M17 Chiquita VN 23
On Tuesday, January 26, 2016, Conbert Benneck <chbenneck@gmail.com <javascript:;> <javascript:;>> wrote:
On 1/26/2016 9:43 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Hi Tom,
If you go to a WEST Marine catalog you can find dacron or other special lines, with a small diameter but very high tensile strength. Maybe you might consider replacing a halyard with one of these. More than enough strength for the job, but very small and light weight.
Connie
Thin lines aloft help deal with windage (drag and making the hull roll off to leeward). I have found that going to something like 3/8 on the main sheet helps my hands grip the line more comfortably though. <
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com <
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
> <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
-- Sent from Gmail Mobile on Windows 10 phone
-- Sent from Gmail Mobile on Windows 10 phone
-- Sent from Gmail Mobile on Windows 10 phone
Henry, I was thinking of having a small heater on board with you just to see how condensation affected you or any other things you might have not thought of so haven't addressed until you have been surprised on a lake somewhere far away from your shop. Google "Bailing Out On Texoma Sailfest" and you will get the low down on what the festivities entail. Tom On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 6:42 PM, Henry Rodriguez <heinzir@gmail.com> wrote:
Sleeping outdoors during a Minnesota winter has never been very high on my list of things to do, and it certainly is not going to make my bucket list this year. I don't care if it is on a boat, it is still Outdoors!
Tell me more about the Texoma gathering. That is stil a long way for me but might be something to put on the bucket list.
Henry
On Tuesday, January 26, 2016, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Henry, Next January is far enough away that it might be possible to include a trip to AZ. in my wife's and my travel wishes for 2017. I would really like to make one of those. It is great fun sailing with similar or same boats. And the other half of the fun is finding out what others do to solve problems or make their boats more comfortable. I am shooting this year for the get together on lake Texoma north of Dallas. It is a 500 mile haul so a good shakedown trip for even longer adventures. Have you tried sleeping aboard your boat where it is stored for the winter? That would be very informative, I bet. I use that "Trailer Sailor " site. Will look into posting some pictures there of my grand bateau.
Tom B <
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com <
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
<#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 4:33 PM, Henry Rodriguez <heinzir@gmail.com <javascript:;>> wrote:
Hi Tom, I don't think the turning radius of the sheaves will be a problem. Dyneema/Spectra is being used to replace towing cables on ocean going tug boats where it is repeatedly wound around winches. Off-road enthusiasts are using it on their truck mounted winches. It is also being used in the logging industry instead of logging chains. I'm sure there is a minimum turning radius for a given diameter of line. I haven't googled it but I don't think the sheaves on our wee ships will cause a problem. (As long as they are grooved for rope, not wire.). The main and jib halyards do not turn 180 degrees on single sheaves anyway. They turn 90 degrees on one side of the mast, go across the masthead, and then turn down 90 degrees on the other side. (Can't find the *~?!^* "degree" key on this keyboard!)
Even if the halyard were to lose 50% of its strength because of improper turning radii it would still have a breaking strength of 1000 lb!
Tom, any chance of you going to GO's WICR in Phoenix next January? I'm going to do my best to get there (from Minneapolis.). I would love to see your boat in person and steal/ swap ideas! Got some great ideas when I went last year. In the mean time, post lots of pictures!
Which brings up another subject: can we post new pictures or albums on the MSOG or MSOG PHOTO sites? I'll post that question on a new thread so as not to hijack this one.
Henry
On Tuesday, January 26, 2016, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com <javascript:;>> wrote:
Henry, I thought of using that stuff too. Am curious how it stands up to being rolled over sheaves like at the mast head, repeatedly. I read it doesn't hold knots well but it is easy to eyesplice. Neat idea about covering it with the outer shell of older lines. Tom B <
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com <
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
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On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 12:39 PM, Henry Rodriguez <heinzir@gmail.com <javascript:;> <javascript:;>> wrote:
I am using 1/8" Dyneema for jib,spinnaker,and main halyards. The 1/8" size is as strong as 1/8" wire (2000 lbs), easy to splice, and is so light it floats. I added a 1/4" cover to the tail end of each halyard to make it easier to handle. I obtained the covers by pulling the cores out of some old 1/4" double braid I had laying around. I threaded the Dyneema through the covers with a small diameter knitting needle. I am going to experiment this spring with adding an additional 5/16 or 3/8" cover over the few feet of halyard tail that actually goes around the winch and into the cleat, the part you really pull on. The covers are strictly for comfort/convenience. The Dyneema alone is extremely strong, lightweight, and has Zero stretch.
FWIW, Amsteel Blue 1/8" Dyneema is $0.46/ft at West Marine. We just missed their annual Bulk Rope Sale where, if I remember correctly, it was $.029/ft! Don't be fooled by the name Amsteel Blue. It comes in a variety of colors.
APSLTD.com is still having their January rigging sale offering 25% off their regular prices. They also sell 1/8" Amsteel Blue Dyneema for $0.46/ft but the sale price brings it to $0.35.
APS has lots of cool information about covering halyards, stripping halyards, etc. They carry just about every kind of sailboat line available and give lots of guidance on choosing the best line for a particular purpose. Their print catalog makes for good winter browsing, ask for one.
Henry Monita M17 Chiquita VN 23
On Tuesday, January 26, 2016, Conbert Benneck <chbenneck@gmail.com <javascript:;> <javascript:;>> wrote:
On 1/26/2016 9:43 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Hi Tom,
If you go to a WEST Marine catalog you can find dacron or other special lines, with a small diameter but very high tensile strength. Maybe you might consider replacing a halyard with one of these. More than enough strength for the job, but very small and light weight.
Connie
> Thin lines aloft help deal with windage (drag and making the hull roll off > to leeward). I have found that going to something like 3/8 on the main > sheet helps my hands grip the line more comfortably though. > < >
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Hi Connie, I looked at dynema for the running rigging but read something about it not liking to be bent repeatedly. I wondered if it would fail being bent over a sheave constantly. It is easy to eye splice though. The double locking procedure is very simple and quick. It would work well for double braid too except there is no place to tuck the end as the core of the outer line is already filled with the inner line, whereas the core of the dynema is empty. I ended up tapering the end and whipping it back to the line. I have more fun trying things out on this boat than sailing it sometimes. At present I am designing some bulkhead cabinets on either side of the companionway to store things in and wire a couple of 12v receptacles into for a search light, etc. Tom <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 10:45 AM, Conbert Benneck <chbenneck@gmail.com> wrote:
On 1/26/2016 9:43 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Hi Tom,
If you go to a WEST Marine catalog you can find dacron or other special lines, with a small diameter but very high tensile strength. Maybe you might consider replacing a halyard with one of these. More than enough strength for the job, but very small and light weight.
Connie
Thin lines aloft help deal with windage (drag and making the hull roll off to leeward). I have found that going to something like 3/8 on the main sheet helps my hands grip the line more comfortably though. < https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
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On 1/26/2016 2:36 PM, Thomas Buzzi wrote: Tom the beauty of owning a sailboat is that you never get bored. You're either out sailing and enjoying yourself; or, you are dreaming up new things to improve / change / modify / or replace. Its all fun, isn't it? ...and the beauty of an M15 or M17 is that they are small enough to fit in your garage where you can do the work; and costs are almost pocket change. Have you tried sheet-to-tiller self steering? ...or used a wind vane for steering. All new and intriguing toys to play with and experiment. Of course, with the M1 / M17 outboard rudders; you could add a trim tab to the trailing edge and run it with a wind vane. More possibilities, at self-steering for a longer trip. The trim tab drives the big rudder and the power output requirement from the windvane becomes quite small. I added an electrical system to our M15 to run the CD player / speakers, and to have an outlet where I could plug in a spot light. I used a small motorcycle battery so that it could be easily carried home and recharged. (I had no power available at the dock) Connie Hi Connie, I looked at dynema for the running rigging but read something about it not liking to be bent repeatedly. I wondered if it would fail being bent over a sheave constantly. It is easy to eye splice though. The double locking procedure is very simple and quick. It would work well for double braid too except there is no place to tuck the end as the core of the outer line is already filled with the inner line, whereas the core of the dynema is empty. I ended up tapering the end and whipping it back to the line. I have more fun trying things out on this boat than sailing it sometimes. At present I am designing some bulkhead cabinets on either side of the companionway to store things in and wire a couple of 12v receptacles into for a search light, etc. Tom <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 10:45 AM, Conbert Benneck <chbenneck@gmail.com> wrote:
On 1/26/2016 9:43 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Hi Tom,
If you go to a WEST Marine catalog you can find dacron or other special lines, with a small diameter but very high tensile strength. Maybe you might consider replacing a halyard with one of these. More than enough strength for the job, but very small and light weight.
Connie
Thin lines aloft help deal with windage (drag and making the hull roll off to leeward). I have found that going to something like 3/8 on the main sheet helps my hands grip the line more comfortably though. < https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig... This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com < https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig... <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
Right on Connie, My most recent challenge was what to use for new hatch boards. The old ones made of scrap yellow pine lumber hardly lasted a season in this blazing sunlight in S. Texas. Teak was just tooooo expensive so a fun exploration at the local hardwoods company turned up "sipo" a west African mahogany for a third the price. I have now made the new boards. The mahogany worked easily and accepted epoxy adhesives. I have now finished two coats of Spar Varnish to protect it and look forward to a good looking set of hatchboards for this year. I make them with the typical rabbits on top and bottom and am impressed how even though last year's set warped, shrunk and twisted they never leaked a drop into the cabin. My next adventure will be sewing a custom 80% jib from Sailrite on one of their machines. Good thing I am retired. I doubt I could keep my mind on my work duties with all these sailboat related issues😉 Tom B <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 3:26 PM, Conbert Benneck <chbenneck@gmail.com> wrote:
On 1/26/2016 2:36 PM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Tom the beauty of owning a sailboat is that you never get bored.
You're either out sailing and enjoying yourself; or, you are dreaming up new things to improve / change / modify / or replace.
Its all fun, isn't it? ...and the beauty of an M15 or M17 is that they are small enough to fit in your garage where you can do the work; and costs are almost pocket change.
Have you tried sheet-to-tiller self steering? ...or used a wind vane for steering. All new and intriguing toys to play with and experiment.
Of course, with the M1 / M17 outboard rudders; you could add a trim tab to the trailing edge and run it with a wind vane. More possibilities, at self-steering for a longer trip. The trim tab drives the big rudder and the power output requirement from the windvane becomes quite small.
I added an electrical system to our M15 to run the CD player / speakers, and to have an outlet where I could plug in a spot light. I used a small motorcycle battery so that it could be easily carried home and recharged. (I had no power available at the dock)
Connie
Hi Connie, I looked at dynema for the running rigging but read something about it not liking to be bent repeatedly. I wondered if it would fail being bent over a sheave constantly. It is easy to eye splice though. The double locking procedure is very simple and quick. It would work well for double braid too except there is no place to tuck the end as the core of the outer line is already filled with the inner line, whereas the core of the dynema is empty. I ended up tapering the end and whipping it back to the line. I have more fun trying things out on this boat than sailing it sometimes. At present I am designing some bulkhead cabinets on either side of the companionway to store things in and wire a couple of 12v receptacles into for a search light, etc. Tom < https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com < https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 10:45 AM, Conbert Benneck <chbenneck@gmail.com> wrote:
On 1/26/2016 9:43 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Hi Tom,
If you go to a WEST Marine catalog you can find dacron or other special lines, with a small diameter but very high tensile strength. Maybe you might consider replacing a halyard with one of these. More than enough strength for the job, but very small and light weight.
Connie
Thin lines aloft help deal with windage (drag and making the hull roll
off to leeward). I have found that going to something like 3/8 on the main sheet helps my hands grip the line more comfortably though. <
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participants (3)
-
Conbert Benneck -
Henry Rodriguez -
Thomas Buzzi