Kind folks, I have a Tiller-Tamer sitting around that I thought might work for my 17 with an IdaSailor rudder. I don't want to mount new cleats, so I would like to use the side stern cleats for the T-T line. The geometry does not meet the specs in the mounting instructions (it would have to be too far forward to make a right angle), but I am wondering if one of you has mounted one further back with success. If so, how far is the T-T sheave center from the pivot point on the rudder? Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 hull #686
Hi Tom, I have a tiller tamer on my M17 and used the stern side cleats for it and it has worked really well. I can snap a couple of pictures this weekend if you would like to see how I have it set up. --Chad On Aug 14, 2009, at 1:36 PM, Tom Jenkins wrote:
Kind folks,
I have a Tiller-Tamer sitting around that I thought might work for my 17 with an IdaSailor rudder. I don't want to mount new cleats, so I would like to use the side stern cleats for the T-T line. The geometry does not meet the specs in the mounting instructions (it would have to be too far forward to make a right angle), but I am wondering if one of you has mounted one further back with success. If so, how far is the T-T sheave center from the pivot point on the rudder?
Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 hull #686 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
Chad, I also have a tiller tamer on my M17 set up the same way, using the stern cleats. The cleating setup works fine, but recently I have had an occasional problem with the line slipping out of the side under load. It's only a year or so old, so hope it's not wearing out already. Have you had any problems like this? Thanks, Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L On Fri, Aug 14, 2009 at 3:37 PM, Chad Parrish <cparrish@fafnirnet.net>wrote:
Hi Tom,
I have a tiller tamer on my M17 and used the stern side cleats for it and it has worked really well. I can snap a couple of pictures this weekend if you would like to see how I have it set up.
--Chad
On Aug 14, 2009, at 1:36 PM, Tom Jenkins wrote:
Kind folks,
I have a Tiller-Tamer sitting around that I thought might work for my 17 with an IdaSailor rudder. I don't want to mount new cleats, so I would like to use the side stern cleats for the T-T line. The geometry does not meet the specs in the mounting instructions (it would have to be too far forward to make a right angle), but I am wondering if one of you has mounted one further back with success. If so, how far is the T-T sheave center from the pivot point on the rudder?
Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 hull #686 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
Rick, Interesting. My TT has never been used, so I took the 1/4" braided rope out and screwed the clamp down all the way. The clearance closed is only 1/8", so it would take a lot of wear on the rope or the clamp jaws to let it slip. If hard plastic has worn that much, you must be doing a whole lot of short-tacking per trip with a fair amount of friction dialed in. Could something be stopping the clamp from tightening all the way? Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick Davies" <jdavies104@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 2:39 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Chad,
I also have a tiller tamer on my M17 set up the same way, using the stern cleats. The cleating setup works fine, but recently I have had an occasional problem with the line slipping out of the side under load. It's only a year or so old, so hope it's not wearing out already. Have you had any problems like this?
Thanks,
Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L
On Fri, Aug 14, 2009 at 3:37 PM, Chad Parrish <cparrish@fafnirnet.net>wrote:
Hi Tom,
I have a tiller tamer on my M17 and used the stern side cleats for it and it has worked really well. I can snap a couple of pictures this weekend if you would like to see how I have it set up.
--Chad
On Aug 14, 2009, at 1:36 PM, Tom Jenkins wrote:
Kind folks,
I have a Tiller-Tamer sitting around that I thought might work for my 17 with an IdaSailor rudder. I don't want to mount new cleats, so I would like to use the side stern cleats for the T-T line. The geometry does not meet the specs in the mounting instructions (it would have to be too far forward to make a right angle), but I am wondering if one of you has mounted one further back with success. If so, how far is the T-T sheave center from the pivot point on the rudder?
Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 hull #686 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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When the clamp is tightened I don't have a problem - it's only when the tension clamp is loosened that the line sometimes pops out. I sail mostly with the tension loose, tightening it down only occasionally, when doing something that takes me away from the helm. BTW, I use the clam on the transom as a backup for the rudder cleat to hold the rudder up when moving on the trailer. It's come loose a couple of times, leading at best to sanding a flat spot on the back of the rudder from trailing on the asphalt, and at worst to (when backing up), popping the whole rudder off the transom with near-disastrous results. Rick On Fri, Aug 14, 2009 at 7:53 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Rick, Interesting. My TT has never been used, so I took the 1/4" braided rope out and screwed the clamp down all the way. The clearance closed is only 1/8", so it would take a lot of wear on the rope or the clamp jaws to let it slip. If hard plastic has worn that much, you must be doing a whole lot of short-tacking per trip with a fair amount of friction dialed in. Could something be stopping the clamp from tightening all the way?
Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick Davies" <jdavies104@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 2:39 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Chad,
I also have a tiller tamer on my M17 set up the same way, using the stern cleats. The cleating setup works fine, but recently I have had an occasional problem with the line slipping out of the side under load. It's only a year or so old, so hope it's not wearing out already. Have you had any problems like this?
Thanks,
Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L
On Fri, Aug 14, 2009 at 3:37 PM, Chad Parrish <cparrish@fafnirnet.net
wrote:
Hi Tom,
I have a tiller tamer on my M17 and used the stern side cleats for it and it has worked really well. I can snap a couple of pictures this weekend if you would like to see how I have it set up.
--Chad
On Aug 14, 2009, at 1:36 PM, Tom Jenkins wrote:
Kind folks,
I have a Tiller-Tamer sitting around that I thought might work for my 17 with an IdaSailor rudder. I don't want to mount new cleats, so I would like to use the side stern cleats for the T-T line. The geometry does not meet the specs in the mounting instructions (it would have to be too far forward to make a right angle), but I am wondering if one of you has mounted one further back with success. If so, how far is the T-T sheave center from the pivot point on the rudder?
Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 hull #686 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________
http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
Rick, Good idea about the rudder cleat backup. Cam cleats trump jam cleats in my experience. That said, I usually take both the rudder and the motor off for transport, because I have too active an imagination. If the line is not squeezing between the shield and the sheave, the top of the clamp can easily turn sideways and let the lines pop out if the knob is screwed up far enough. I suppose the plastic shaft has worn enough so the knob will not stay screwed down from friction alone. Whodathunk? TJ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick Davies" <jdavies104@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 5:32 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
When the clamp is tightened I don't have a problem - it's only when the tension clamp is loosened that the line sometimes pops out. I sail mostly with the tension loose, tightening it down only occasionally, when doing something that takes me away from the helm.
BTW, I use the clam on the transom as a backup for the rudder cleat to hold the rudder up when moving on the trailer. It's come loose a couple of times, leading at best to sanding a flat spot on the back of the rudder from trailing on the asphalt, and at worst to (when backing up), popping the whole rudder off the transom with near-disastrous results.
Rick
On Fri, Aug 14, 2009 at 7:53 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Rick, Interesting. My TT has never been used, so I took the 1/4" braided rope out and screwed the clamp down all the way. The clearance closed is only 1/8", so it would take a lot of wear on the rope or the clamp jaws to let it slip. If hard plastic has worn that much, you must be doing a whole lot of short-tacking per trip with a fair amount of friction dialed in. Could something be stopping the clamp from tightening all the way?
Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick Davies" <jdavies104@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 2:39 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Chad,
I also have a tiller tamer on my M17 set up the same way, using the stern cleats. The cleating setup works fine, but recently I have had an occasional problem with the line slipping out of the side under load. It's only a year or so old, so hope it's not wearing out already. Have you had any problems like this?
Thanks,
Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L
On Fri, Aug 14, 2009 at 3:37 PM, Chad Parrish <cparrish@fafnirnet.net
wrote:
Hi Tom,
I have a tiller tamer on my M17 and used the stern side cleats for it and it has worked really well. I can snap a couple of pictures this weekend if you would like to see how I have it set up.
--Chad
On Aug 14, 2009, at 1:36 PM, Tom Jenkins wrote:
Kind folks,
I have a Tiller-Tamer sitting around that I thought might work for my 17 with an IdaSailor rudder. I don't want to mount new cleats, so I would like to use the side stern cleats for the T-T line. The geometry does not meet the specs in the mounting instructions (it would have to be too far forward to make a right angle), but I am wondering if one of you has mounted one further back with success. If so, how far is the T-T sheave center from the pivot point on the rudder?
Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 hull #686 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________
http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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You're right, for road transport both rudder and engine come off. I usually only trail from my dry slip a couple of hundred yards to the launch ramp. It was backing into the parking slip when the rudder dropped and caught on the ground, popping right off the transom (also bending the bottom gudgeon, which required lots of force to fix). Luckily, no other damage, a credit to the construction of the 17, since an S2 in a slip not far away did the same thing last summer and ripped a huge hole in the transom. Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L On Sat, Aug 15, 2009 at 2:00 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Rick, Good idea about the rudder cleat backup. Cam cleats trump jam cleats in my experience. That said, I usually take both the rudder and the motor off for transport, because I have too active an imagination. If the line is not squeezing between the shield and the sheave, the top of the clamp can easily turn sideways and let the lines pop out if the knob is screwed up far enough. I suppose the plastic shaft has worn enough so the knob will not stay screwed down from friction alone. Whodathunk?
TJ
----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick Davies" <jdavies104@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 5:32 AM
Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
When the clamp is tightened I don't have a problem - it's only when the
tension clamp is loosened that the line sometimes pops out. I sail mostly with the tension loose, tightening it down only occasionally, when doing something that takes me away from the helm.
BTW, I use the clam on the transom as a backup for the rudder cleat to hold the rudder up when moving on the trailer. It's come loose a couple of times, leading at best to sanding a flat spot on the back of the rudder from trailing on the asphalt, and at worst to (when backing up), popping the whole rudder off the transom with near-disastrous results.
Rick
On Fri, Aug 14, 2009 at 7:53 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Rick,
Interesting. My TT has never been used, so I took the 1/4" braided rope out and screwed the clamp down all the way. The clearance closed is only 1/8", so it would take a lot of wear on the rope or the clamp jaws to let it slip. If hard plastic has worn that much, you must be doing a whole lot of short-tacking per trip with a fair amount of friction dialed in. Could something be stopping the clamp from tightening all the way?
Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick Davies" <jdavies104@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 2:39 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Chad,
I also have a tiller tamer on my M17 set up the same way, using the stern cleats. The cleating setup works fine, but recently I have had an occasional problem with the line slipping out of the side under load. It's only a year or so old, so hope it's not wearing out already. Have you had any problems like this?
Thanks,
Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L
On Fri, Aug 14, 2009 at 3:37 PM, Chad Parrish <cparrish@fafnirnet.net
wrote:
Hi Tom,
I have a tiller tamer on my M17 and used the stern side cleats for it and it has worked really well. I can snap a couple of pictures this weekend if you would like to see how I have it set up.
--Chad
On Aug 14, 2009, at 1:36 PM, Tom Jenkins wrote:
Kind folks,
I have a Tiller-Tamer sitting around that I thought might work for my 17 with an IdaSailor rudder. I don't want to mount new cleats, so I would like to use the side stern cleats for the T-T line. The geometry does not meet the specs in the mounting instructions (it would have to be too far forward to make a right angle), but I am wondering if one of you has mounted one further back with success. If so, how far is the T-T sheave center from the pivot point on the rudder?
Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 hull #686 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________
http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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That's a scary tale. I can't even picture the force necessary to pop out the top two pintles. The IdaSailor stays up pretty well, but I will watch more carefully from now on (maybe a bungee loop for good measure). A big wooden rudder would really be messed up if the cam cleat slipped and it dropped all the way down, but that probably has never happened. Tom Jenkins ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick Davies" <jdavies104@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2009 5:47 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
You're right, for road transport both rudder and engine come off. I usually only trail from my dry slip a couple of hundred yards to the launch ramp. It was backing into the parking slip when the rudder dropped and caught on the ground, popping right off the transom (also bending the bottom gudgeon, which required lots of force to fix). Luckily, no other damage, a credit to the construction of the 17, since an S2 in a slip not far away did the same thing last summer and ripped a huge hole in the transom.
Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L
On Sat, Aug 15, 2009 at 2:00 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Rick, Good idea about the rudder cleat backup. Cam cleats trump jam cleats in my experience. That said, I usually take both the rudder and the motor off for transport, because I have too active an imagination. If the line is not squeezing between the shield and the sheave, the top of the clamp can easily turn sideways and let the lines pop out if the knob is screwed up far enough. I suppose the plastic shaft has worn enough so the knob will not stay screwed down from friction alone. Whodathunk?
TJ
----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick Davies" <jdavies104@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 5:32 AM
Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
When the clamp is tightened I don't have a problem - it's only when the
tension clamp is loosened that the line sometimes pops out. I sail mostly with the tension loose, tightening it down only occasionally, when doing something that takes me away from the helm.
BTW, I use the clam on the transom as a backup for the rudder cleat to hold the rudder up when moving on the trailer. It's come loose a couple of times, leading at best to sanding a flat spot on the back of the rudder from trailing on the asphalt, and at worst to (when backing up), popping the whole rudder off the transom with near-disastrous results.
Rick
On Fri, Aug 14, 2009 at 7:53 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Rick,
Interesting. My TT has never been used, so I took the 1/4" braided rope out and screwed the clamp down all the way. The clearance closed is only 1/8", so it would take a lot of wear on the rope or the clamp jaws to let it slip. If hard plastic has worn that much, you must be doing a whole lot of short-tacking per trip with a fair amount of friction dialed in. Could something be stopping the clamp from tightening all the way?
Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick Davies" <jdavies104@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 2:39 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Chad,
I also have a tiller tamer on my M17 set up the same way, using the stern cleats. The cleating setup works fine, but recently I have had an occasional problem with the line slipping out of the side under load. It's only a year or so old, so hope it's not wearing out already. Have you had any problems like this?
Thanks,
Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L
On Fri, Aug 14, 2009 at 3:37 PM, Chad Parrish <cparrish@fafnirnet.net
wrote:
Hi Tom,
I have a tiller tamer on my M17 and used the stern side cleats for it and it has worked really well. I can snap a couple of pictures this weekend if you would like to see how I have it set up.
--Chad
On Aug 14, 2009, at 1:36 PM, Tom Jenkins wrote:
Kind folks,
> I have a Tiller-Tamer sitting around that I thought might work for > my > 17 > with an IdaSailor rudder. I don't want to mount new cleats, so I > would > like > to use the side stern cleats for the T-T line. The geometry does > not > meet > the specs in the mounting instructions (it would have to be too far > forward > to make a right angle), but I am wondering if one of you has mounted > one > further back with success. If so, how far is the T-T sheave center > from > the > pivot point on the rudder? > > Thanks, > Tom Jenkins > M17 hull #686 > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! > > > _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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Tom, Try Duckworks store: http://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware/cleats/rl45/index.htm Or, if you are inclined that way, you could make your own out of a scrap of hardwood: see Hervey Garrett Smith's "The Marlinspike Sailor" for dimensions. It is true that the book costs more than the cleat wood (!!!), but it's a good read nonetheless. Cheers, George On Aug 17, 2009, at 12:02 AM, Tom Jenkins wrote:
Tom, Pretty clever, if one can find a jam cleat smaller than the West Marine 6 incher. Now that I actually know what a jam cleat is, I can weigh that tactic against the Tiller-Tamer. I'm betting others have come up with some good solutions, but these two are quite servicable. Thanks for the help.
Tom Jenkins
A question for those of you that regularly trailer your M17 and have to take the mast down. Can it be done without making any adjustments to the shrouds? With a roller furling, does the sail have to be removed first? (I have a CDI) Other tips to simplify the process? And lastly, how in the world do you guys do all this in 30-45 minutes???? Joe Seafrog M17
Joe: I trimmed the foot of my mast so that the shrouds don't have to be loosened to drop the mast. I leave the genoa on the furler and attach a 2:1 block and tackle to the forestay to raise and lower the mast. That keeps the furler and sail from flopping around during raising and lowering. I secure the mast upright with the otherwise unused jib halyard while attaching the forestay to the bow fitting. I can launch and rig in probably 45-60 minutes; faster with practice. --Gary Hyde 2005 M17 #637 sailboat 'Hydeaway 2' & Bolger Nymph On Aug 16, 2009, at 7:28 PM, Joe Murphy wrote:
A question for those of you that regularly trailer your M17 and have to take the mast down. Can it be done without making any adjustments to the shrouds? With a roller furling, does the sail have to be removed first? (I have a CDI) Other tips to simplify the process? And lastly, how in the world do you guys do all this in 30-45 minutes???? Joe Seafrog M17
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I've found that cranking down the trailer tongue as low as it will go tips the boat slightly forward, then the mast stays put by itself while you attach the forestay. Of course, I still have a line attached to the bottom of the forestay through a turning block at the bow and led back to the cockpit just for peace of mind. Nothing like belt and suspenders! Also, I don't seem to have to loosen the shrouds from the normal sailing setting - "snug, but not tight". Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L On Sun, Aug 16, 2009 at 11:30 PM, Gary M Hyde <gmhyde1@mac.com> wrote:
Joe: I trimmed the foot of my mast so that the shrouds don't have to be loosened to drop the mast. I leave the genoa on the furler and attach a 2:1 block and tackle to the forestay to raise and lower the mast. That keeps the furler and sail from flopping around during raising and lowering. I secure the mast upright with the otherwise unused jib halyard while attaching the forestay to the bow fitting.
I can launch and rig in probably 45-60 minutes; faster with practice.
--Gary Hyde 2005 M17 #637 sailboat 'Hydeaway 2' & Bolger Nymph
On Aug 16, 2009, at 7:28 PM, Joe Murphy wrote:
A question for those of you that regularly trailer your M17 and have to
take the mast down. Can it be done without making any adjustments to the shrouds? With a roller furling, does the sail have to be removed first? (I have a CDI) Other tips to simplify the process? And lastly, how in the world do you guys do all this in 30-45 minutes???? Joe Seafrog M17
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Larry, Gary, Rick and Tom, Thanks for alll the tips and advice. I'm keeping my eye on Hurricane Bill and although I keep Seafrog in the water from April to December, I want to be able to get her out of the water temporarily and put her on terra firma just in case. The only times that I have put up the mast was after a complete removal of mast, boom, sails, rigging etc to work on her. Thanks again, Joe
Gary, what do you mean you trimmed the foot? Do you mean you beveled it fore and aft? Curious sailors want to know... t On Sun, Aug 16, 2009 at 8:30 PM, Gary M Hyde<gmhyde1@mac.com> wrote:
Joe: I trimmed the foot of my mast so that the shrouds don't have to be loosened to drop the mast.
I beveled the back half of the bottom of the mast so that it didn't have to raise up during pivoting from vertical backward to lower it. Some folks just let that rise up happen and don't keep the shrouds so tight that it's a problem. --Gary ☺ ⎈ On Aug 17, 2009, at 9:47 AM, Tom Smith wrote:
Gary, what do you mean you trimmed the foot? Do you mean you beveled it fore and aft? Curious sailors want to know... t
On Sun, Aug 16, 2009 at 8:30 PM, Gary M Hyde<gmhyde1@mac.com> wrote:
Joe: I trimmed the foot of my mast so that the shrouds don't have to be loosened to drop the mast.
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GARY, CAN YOU POST A PHOTO OF THE BEVEL MAST BASE FOR US? LON SELKIE -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Gary M Hyde Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 5:23 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bringing down the mast I beveled the back half of the bottom of the mast so that it didn't have to raise up during pivoting from vertical backward to lower it. Some folks just let that rise up happen and don't keep the shrouds so tight that it's a problem. --Gary ☺ ⎈
Sure. That makes good sense. How much did you trim off? t On Mon, Aug 17, 2009 at 5:22 PM, Gary M Hyde <gmhyde1@mac.com> wrote:
I beveled the back half of the bottom of the mast so that it didn't have to raise up during pivoting from vertical backward to lower it. Some folks just let that rise up happen and don't keep the shrouds so tight that it's a problem. --Gary ☺ ⎈
On Aug 17, 2009, at 9:47 AM, Tom Smith wrote:
Gary, what do you mean you trimmed the foot? Do you mean you beveled
it fore and aft? Curious sailors want to know... t
On Sun, Aug 16, 2009 at 8:30 PM, Gary M Hyde<gmhyde1@mac.com> wrote:
Joe: I trimmed the foot of my mast so that the shrouds don't have to be loosened to drop the mast.
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To determine how much to trim off, I drew an arc centered on the pivot bolt and with a radius from there to the bottom end of the mast and drew it from the bottom to the back side of the mast (this is all referenced to the stepped mast). That way, as the mast is tilted back, pivoting about the pivot bolt, it is not forced to rise. I have a photo somewhere, will try to find it. --Gary ☺ ⎈ On Aug 17, 2009, at 6:14 PM, Tom Smith wrote:
Sure. That makes good sense. How much did you trim off? t
On Mon, Aug 17, 2009 at 5:22 PM, Gary M Hyde <gmhyde1@mac.com> wrote:
I beveled the back half of the bottom of the mast so that it didn't have to raise up during pivoting from vertical backward to lower it. Some folks just let that rise up happen and don't keep the shrouds so tight that it's a problem. --Gary ☺ ⎈
On Aug 17, 2009, at 9:47 AM, Tom Smith wrote:
Gary, what do you mean you trimmed the foot? Do you mean you beveled
it fore and aft? Curious sailors want to know... t
On Sun, Aug 16, 2009 at 8:30 PM, Gary M Hyde<gmhyde1@mac.com> wrote:
Joe: I trimmed the foot of my mast so that the shrouds don't have to be loosened to drop the mast.
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Sure, that makes sense. Thanks Gary. t On Mon, Aug 17, 2009 at 8:16 PM, Gary M Hyde <gmhyde1@mac.com> wrote:
To determine how much to trim off, I drew an arc centered on the pivot bolt and with a radius from there to the bottom end of the mast and drew it from the bottom to the back side of the mast (this is all referenced to the stepped mast). That way, as the mast is tilted back, pivoting about the pivot bolt, it is not forced to rise. I have a photo somewhere, will try to find it. --Gary ☺ ⎈
On Aug 17, 2009, at 6:14 PM, Tom Smith wrote:
Sure. That makes good sense. How much did you trim off? t
On Mon, Aug 17, 2009 at 5:22 PM, Gary M Hyde <gmhyde1@mac.com> wrote:
I beveled the back half of the bottom of the mast so that it didn't have
to raise up during pivoting from vertical backward to lower it. Some folks just let that rise up happen and don't keep the shrouds so tight that it's a problem. --Gary ☺ ⎈
On Aug 17, 2009, at 9:47 AM, Tom Smith wrote:
Gary, what do you mean you trimmed the foot? Do you mean you beveled
it fore and aft? Curious sailors want to know... t
On Sun, Aug 16, 2009 at 8:30 PM, Gary M Hyde<gmhyde1@mac.com> wrote:
Joe:
I trimmed the foot of my mast so that the shrouds don't have to be loosened to drop the mast.
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Regarding the furler, I have a CDI and simply take the jib off before dropping, sorry, lowering, the mast. The forestay with the furler foil is no more trouble than without. Rick M-17 #633 Lynne L On Mon, Aug 17, 2009 at 11:27 PM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> wrote:
Sure, that makes sense. Thanks Gary. t
On Mon, Aug 17, 2009 at 8:16 PM, Gary M Hyde <gmhyde1@mac.com> wrote:
To determine how much to trim off, I drew an arc centered on the pivot bolt and with a radius from there to the bottom end of the mast and drew it from the bottom to the back side of the mast (this is all referenced to the stepped mast). That way, as the mast is tilted back, pivoting about the pivot bolt, it is not forced to rise. I have a photo somewhere, will try to find it. --Gary ☺ ⎈
On Aug 17, 2009, at 6:14 PM, Tom Smith wrote:
Sure. That makes good sense. How much did you trim off? t
On Mon, Aug 17, 2009 at 5:22 PM, Gary M Hyde <gmhyde1@mac.com> wrote:
I beveled the back half of the bottom of the mast so that it didn't
have
to raise up during pivoting from vertical backward to lower it. Some folks just let that rise up happen and don't keep the shrouds so tight that it's a problem. --Gary ☺ ⎈
On Aug 17, 2009, at 9:47 AM, Tom Smith wrote:
Gary, what do you mean you trimmed the foot? Do you mean you beveled
it fore and aft? Curious sailors want to know... t
On Sun, Aug 16, 2009 at 8:30 PM, Gary M Hyde<gmhyde1@mac.com> wrote:
Joe:
I trimmed the foot of my mast so that the shrouds don't have to be loosened to drop the mast.
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I mean it Gary. That's an excellent idea. Dwyer owes you royalties on that... t On Mon, Aug 17, 2009 at 5:22 PM, Gary M Hyde <gmhyde1@mac.com> wrote:
I beveled the back half of the bottom of the mast so that it didn't have to raise up during pivoting from vertical backward to lower it. Some folks just let that rise up happen and don't keep the shrouds so tight that it's a problem. --Gary ☺ ⎈
On Aug 17, 2009, at 9:47 AM, Tom Smith wrote:
Gary, what do you mean you trimmed the foot? Do you mean you beveled
it fore and aft? Curious sailors want to know... t
On Sun, Aug 16, 2009 at 8:30 PM, Gary M Hyde<gmhyde1@mac.com> wrote:
Joe: I trimmed the foot of my mast so that the shrouds don't have to be loosened to drop the mast.
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My mast has the bevel already ground out. I further ground out the backside up about 2" so that the VHF and Masthead light wires can run down through the mast plate and directly down the compression post. Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary M Hyde" <gmhyde1@mac.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 8:22 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bringing down the mast
I beveled the back half of the bottom of the mast so that it didn't have to raise up during pivoting from vertical backward to lower it. Some folks just let that rise up happen and don't keep the shrouds so tight that it's a problem. --Gary ☺ ⎈
On Aug 17, 2009, at 9:47 AM, Tom Smith wrote:
Gary, what do you mean you trimmed the foot? Do you mean you beveled it fore and aft? Curious sailors want to know... t
On Sun, Aug 16, 2009 at 8:30 PM, Gary M Hyde<gmhyde1@mac.com> wrote:
Joe: I trimmed the foot of my mast so that the shrouds don't have to be loosened to drop the mast.
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I use an A-frame made of 1" square aluminum tube to raise and lower my mast. The legs of the frame are the right length to reach the stemhead. The pivot point at the top of the "A" (aluminum channel) has a padeye on each side and the base has pins (bolts with two nuts and the bolt head sticking out about 1/4 inch with a plastic sleeve on it) that engage the aluminum toe rail holes. I also have the aft side of the mast radiused to avoid stressing the rigging. I attach the jib halyard to one padeye and the trailer winch cable to the other and engage the pins in the toe rail directly below the tabernacle pivot. The mast can then be winched up and stopped at any point to untangle the rigging. When fully raised, I attach the forestay with a lever tensioner. I have brackets on the trailer frame for the A-frame and a folding utility ladder for getting aboard in the parking lot. When the boat is in the water, I use a snatch block at the stemhead with a line running back to one of the sheet winches instead of the trailer winch. It is much easier on my poor old knees that trying to walk the mast up over the cabin top. This method has worked for me on 5 boats over the past 50 years. I will not claim that it is an origonal idea; the Dutch have used it for centuries to lower and raise the masts of sailing barges when going under bridges. Hopefully, this will be a help to some other "older" sailors to keep them sailing for a few years longer. It even worked for me when I still had brown hair. Whitebeard M17 #14, Griselda
From: seagray@embarqmail.com To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 13:12:26 -0400 Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bringing down the mast
My mast has the bevel already ground out. I further ground out the backside up about 2" so that the VHF and Masthead light wires can run down through the mast plate and directly down the compression post. Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary M Hyde" <gmhyde1@mac.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 8:22 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bringing down the mast
I beveled the back half of the bottom of the mast so that it didn't have to raise up during pivoting from vertical backward to lower it. Some folks just let that rise up happen and don't keep the shrouds so tight that it's a problem. --Gary ☺ ⎈
On Aug 17, 2009, at 9:47 AM, Tom Smith wrote:
Gary, what do you mean you trimmed the foot? Do you mean you beveled it fore and aft? Curious sailors want to know... t
On Sun, Aug 16, 2009 at 8:30 PM, Gary M Hyde<gmhyde1@mac.com> wrote:
Joe: I trimmed the foot of my mast so that the shrouds don't have to be loosened to drop the mast.
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_________________________________________________________________ Get back to school stuff for them and cashback for you. http://www.bing.com/cashback?form=MSHYCB&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MSHYCB_BackT...
Oh good idea on slot for wires. --Gary ☺ ⎈ On Aug 18, 2009, at 10:12 AM, Joe Murphy wrote:
My mast has the bevel already ground out. I further ground out the backside up about 2" so that the VHF and Masthead light wires can run down through the mast plate and directly down the compression post. Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary M Hyde" <gmhyde1@mac.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 8:22 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bringing down the mast
I beveled the back half of the bottom of the mast so that it didn't have to raise up during pivoting from vertical backward to lower it. Some folks just let that rise up happen and don't keep the shrouds so tight that it's a problem. --Gary ☺ ⎈
On Aug 17, 2009, at 9:47 AM, Tom Smith wrote:
Gary, what do you mean you trimmed the foot? Do you mean you beveled it fore and aft? Curious sailors want to know... t
On Sun, Aug 16, 2009 at 8:30 PM, Gary M Hyde<gmhyde1@mac.com> wrote:
Joe: I trimmed the foot of my mast so that the shrouds don't have to be loosened to drop the mast.
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Unlike these other guys, I always loosen my M17's side stay turnbuckles prior to dropping the mast (figuratively speaking). I keep the rig somewhat tighter than most, so I think it prudent to do so. If I trailored all over the place, and didn't sail out of slip, I might figure out a way to do it differently. Larry has it down. t
Joe, I'm no expert, and I tend to obsess on everything, but the mast is no big deal. First, make sure you use a quick release pin instead of a clevis to hold the CDI to the stem fitting (middle hole). I keep the shrouds tightened because they are directly opposite the tabernacle pivot point (thanks, Larry), and they are a hassle to adjust each time. The jib should be left on rolled up and bungeed at the clew. I fasten a four-part tackle between the rear hole of the stem fitting (or the trailer upright, if it is on the trailer) and the unused jib halyard (of course the other end is cleated off). (Be careful to position the halyard properly, because I found out yesterday that raising the mast with the wire can possibly jamb the rope/wire transition into the masthead apparatus. This winter, it is all-rope halyard for me!) Mast up: Stand in the cockpit and raise the mast about shoulder height while tensioning the tackle. It should be easy to raise the mast a bit higher with one arm while pulling on the tackle line, and from there use the tackle to raise the mast. Beware of savaging the electrical wires in the tabernacle; you can cleat off the tackle and arrange the wires when you get to 45 degrees or so. I wrap a towel around the furler so it won't scratch the deck as it slides forward. When the mast is up, I loosen the backstay a bit, so the furler can be pinned on easily. Then remove the tackle (now a temporary headstay), tension the backstay, and voila! Mast down: Put the tackle back on, loosen the backstay, tighten the tackle until the quick pin on furler comes out easily, tip the mast while feeding line into the tackle, move to the cockpit, and lower the mast with the tackle until you can grab it and place it in the cradle. The only hard part is keeping the tackle from cleating off automatically under tension, but I managed it alone the first time out. Two people of course make everything a little easier. Two other tricks have merit if you are not feeling vigorous. One is to raise the trailer upright to the highest hole, put on an eyebolt, and fasten the tackle there. I have not needed to do this yet, but I think the tackle will raise the mast off the upright with no muscle power. The other tactic is to have an extending mast cradle, but I reckon one needs to raise the mast as the cradle is raised, so it does not add much if you are using a tackle. Tom Jenkins ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Murphy" <seagray@embarqmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2009 7:28 PM Subject: M_Boats: Bringing down the mast
A question for those of you that regularly trailer your M17 and have to take the mast down. Can it be done without making any adjustments to the shrouds? With a roller furling, does the sail have to be removed first? (I have a CDI) Other tips to simplify the process? And lastly, how in the world do you guys do all this in 30-45 minutes???? Joe Seafrog M17
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Joe, I have an M17 and have trailered her all over the country. I check and adjust the shrouds every so often and then leave them alone.? I do have lever adjusters on the upper shrouds ( like on some catamarans) which I use, but every so often I leave them tightened.? At 65 I am not as strong or as active as I was 10, or even 20 years ago, but I have no difficulty raising the mast with the shrouds at their set tension.? I always have a?safety line attached to the forestay, run through a block attached to the bow and then lead back to the clam cleat I have behind the winch on the port side of the cabintop. Always a good idea to have a safety line.? The backstay is adjustable and it is loose, obviously, when I raise the mast, but a quick pull on the tension adjuster tightens it up completely once the forestay is attached.? I have hank on head sails so I can't address the roller furling concern.? When I am organized ( which admittedly isn't very often) it takes about 15 - 20 minutes to have the boat rigged and ready to launch.?? When I am setting out on a longer cruise it can take me a long time, since I tend to work slowly..after all I am retired, why hurry!? But if I had just a day sail on the agenda, I believe I could even reduce the set up time a bit more by reducing some ofthe things I do for a longer trip?and getting as many things as possible ready in advance. John Miss T M17 # 372 -----Original Message----- From: Joe Murphy <seagray@embarqmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sun, Aug 16, 2009 10:28 pm Subject: M_Boats: Bringing down the mast A question for those of you that regularly trailer your M17 and have to take the mast down. Can it be done without making any adjustments to the shrouds? With a roller furling, does the sail have to be removed first? (I have a CDI) Other tips to simplify the process? And lastly, how in the world do you guys do all this in 30-45 minutes????? Joe? Seafrog M17 ? _______________________________________________? http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats? ? Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!?
Hi Joe, As a new owner, we are still learning. I learned a few things from the previous owner when checking out the boat. The shrouds are left attached. They are not drum tight when everything is up. In fact the lee shrouds are noticeable loose when sailing. I can just feel their resistance when raising the mast. I work from bow to stern and try not to retrace my steps (very much!). I have a soft sided tool bag with everything I need. Starting at the bow, I take off the strap that holds the mast on the forward crutch. This is just above the bow pulpit on an extended winch post. The forestay (no furler) is draped over this and down the winch post, held on with a plastic zip tie. Cut the zip tie with a pair of side cutters in the outside of the bag. Reach down and thread in the eye bolt attached to a turning block onto the winch post. This will turn the mast hauling line aft to the cockpit. Rig a 1/2" line to the jib halyard shackle with bowline and stopper knot, run the line through the turning block and take it aft to the cockpit outside of the shrouds. (I move it aft as I move aft, or if my crewmate is there, toss the coil aft) Take off the velcro wrap tie that contains the coiled halyards. Double check the cleating of the jib halyard. Work my way aft on the cabin top, removing ball bungee ties (2 or 3) that hold all the halyards and the forestay during travel. Cut the zip ties or loosen the velcro wrap ties that contain the coiled shrouds up to the mast. Remove the 3 velcro wraps that hold an 18" length of foam pipe insulation around the turnbuckles and the wire shrouds on each side. This prevents chaffing on the gel coat of the cabin sides top. Put the side cutters away, take out a small adjustable wrench, already sized for the nut on the mast pivot bolt. Same with a 6" ratchet with socket for the bolt head. Remove the bolt from the mast step, placing carefully beside it. Make sure the VHF and mast head lights wires are leading aft from the mast step. Step into the cockpit, take off the other 3 ball bungees that contain the back stay and keep the halyards and upper shrouds tight to the mast. Loosen the aft strap on the mast crutch coming up from the rudder gudgeons. Slide the mast aft till the foot is at the mast step. Step back up and insert the bolt, thread the nut and use my adjustable and ratchet to tighten up. Keep carrying that tool bag with you!! Facing forward in the cockpit, making sure the back stay parts are to my left and nothing is under foot. Take 3 turns around the starboard winch with the line from the bow turning block. Step under the mast and lift it with my left shoulder. Take up the line with my right hand, keep lifting with my left. Once I tighten the line again, the mast can just sit there in the air, even if it is not at 45 degrees. I can now haul on the line and lift it slowly, or push on up with my left hand, and just keep taking up the hoisting line with my right, till the mast is vertical. Those 3 wraps on the winch give you a lot of control if you want to stop the raising at any time. Once the mast is vertical, you can cleat it off. To be totally safe, keep tension on it and cleat it back on a stern cleat, or take the bitter end forward with you to the bow cleat. Don't depend on the clam cleats at the winch. Moving forward again (where is your tool bag? In your hand...right?) take the jib with you, and my forward dockline. (2 hands are just enough) I cleat the dock line on right now. If you have brought the hoisting line with you cleat it at the bow cleat. Now attach the forestay with what ever pin system you use, attach the ringy thingy as needed. Adjust the forestay tension with whatever tools you normally use. I have a 2nd small adjustable already closed up to fit the swaged top part above turnbuckle. I use the handle of the other one through the turnbuckle body to tension it. I then hank on the jib, after I disconnect the hoisting line from the jib halyard shackle. Going aft I lead the jib sheets to the winches. and coil up the hoisting line. Cleat on an after dockline. Pull out the fenders and fasten them. Hope I know which side to I will be launching. Lift off the stern mast crutch. Now time to take the rudder out of the cabin and set it down over the stern. Will finish it from the ground. Then the boom out of the cabin and slide onto the mast, and put on the mainsail. I put in the battens last then sail ties around the boom to hold the sail up. I don't have a topping lift (yet) so have a clip on pigtail from the backstay to the aft end of the boom to keep it supported till we raised the main on the water. I run the gas line out of the after locker, connect it to the tank. Open the tank cap vent while I am in there. Stow my tool bag back in the large port locker. Time to step down to the ground now. I have the old rudder design, so have to put a clevis pin into the lower end of the rudder pivot rod. Then lift and cleat off the rudder. Get the O/B from the truck, and put it on the stern bracket and hook up the gas line and give the bulb a few squeezes. Hmmmm, I have probably forgotten something, but I am pretty close to backing to the ramp. Should be about 35 to 40 minutes. Yesterday it was much slower. High heat, high humidity, bad air quality slowed me down. Sure was nice to throw out a couple of fenders on a line and , heave too, and drift down Lake Ontario, taking turns to jump in and cool off. Regards, Bill Wickett M17 #622 Step On Sun, Aug 16, 2009 at 10:28 PM, Joe Murphy <seagray@embarqmail.com> wrote:
A question for those of you that regularly trailer your M17 and have to take the mast down. Can it be done without making any adjustments to the shrouds? With a roller furling, does the sail have to be removed first? (I have a CDI) Other tips to simplify the process? And lastly, how in the world do you guys do all this in 30-45 minutes???? Joe Seafrog M17
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Chad, Pictures would indeed be very helpful. Chances are if I took a guess, I would end up drilling more than one set of holes in the laminated tiller. Thanks much. Tom Jenkins ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chad Parrish" <cparrish@fafnirnet.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 12:37 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Hi Tom,
I have a tiller tamer on my M17 and used the stern side cleats for it and it has worked really well. I can snap a couple of pictures this weekend if you would like to see how I have it set up.
--Chad
On Aug 14, 2009, at 1:36 PM, Tom Jenkins wrote:
Kind folks,
I have a Tiller-Tamer sitting around that I thought might work for my 17 with an IdaSailor rudder. I don't want to mount new cleats, so I would like to use the side stern cleats for the T-T line. The geometry does not meet the specs in the mounting instructions (it would have to be too far forward to make a right angle), but I am wondering if one of you has mounted one further back with success. If so, how far is the T-T sheave center from the pivot point on the rudder?
Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 hull #686 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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Tom, I followed the directions (say it ain't so, Joe). On the transom edge where the hull and deck flange is located I put a small pad eye about 12-15' away from the rudder on the port side and a camcleat the same distance on the starboard side. I don't know the exact measurements of where I drilled the holes in the tiller but I can get them for you. Joe Seafrog M17 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Jenkins" <tjenk@gte.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 7:19 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Chad, Pictures would indeed be very helpful. Chances are if I took a guess, I would end up drilling more than one set of holes in the laminated tiller. Thanks much.
Tom Jenkins
----- Original Message ----- From: "Chad Parrish" <cparrish@fafnirnet.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 12:37 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Hi Tom,
I have a tiller tamer on my M17 and used the stern side cleats for it and it has worked really well. I can snap a couple of pictures this weekend if you would like to see how I have it set up.
--Chad
On Aug 14, 2009, at 1:36 PM, Tom Jenkins wrote:
Kind folks,
I have a Tiller-Tamer sitting around that I thought might work for my 17 with an IdaSailor rudder. I don't want to mount new cleats, so I would like to use the side stern cleats for the T-T line. The geometry does not meet the specs in the mounting instructions (it would have to be too far forward to make a right angle), but I am wondering if one of you has mounted one further back with success. If so, how far is the T-T sheave center from the pivot point on the rudder?
Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 hull #686 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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Joe, I consider following directions a last resort. I hope you meant 12-15", not 12-15', since that conveys quite the image. I still want to try the corner cleats, because I already have a useless cam for the pullup rudder, which I don't use. My trig says your device is 12-15" up the tiller handle, if you really did follow the directions. Thanks for your comments, and happy sailing. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Murphy" <seagray@embarqmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 5:13 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Tom, I followed the directions (say it ain't so, Joe). On the transom edge where the hull and deck flange is located I put a small pad eye about 12-15' away from the rudder on the port side and a camcleat the same distance on the starboard side. I don't know the exact measurements of where I drilled the holes in the tiller but I can get them for you. Joe Seafrog M17 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Jenkins" <tjenk@gte.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 7:19 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Chad, Pictures would indeed be very helpful. Chances are if I took a guess, I would end up drilling more than one set of holes in the laminated tiller. Thanks much.
Tom Jenkins
----- Original Message ----- From: "Chad Parrish" <cparrish@fafnirnet.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 12:37 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Hi Tom,
I have a tiller tamer on my M17 and used the stern side cleats for it and it has worked really well. I can snap a couple of pictures this weekend if you would like to see how I have it set up.
--Chad
On Aug 14, 2009, at 1:36 PM, Tom Jenkins wrote:
Kind folks,
I have a Tiller-Tamer sitting around that I thought might work for my 17 with an IdaSailor rudder. I don't want to mount new cleats, so I would like to use the side stern cleats for the T-T line. The geometry does not meet the specs in the mounting instructions (it would have to be too far forward to make a right angle), but I am wondering if one of you has mounted one further back with success. If so, how far is the T-T sheave center from the pivot point on the rudder?
Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 hull #686 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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Yeah, try the corner cleats before you drill holes. I hate drilling holes in perfectly good fg. I don't use a tt now, though I have used one in the past. I like a couple of bungee loops with line in between and a jam cleat on the bottom of the tiller. Probably not as easily adjusted, but in my mind low tech is less intrusive. Certainly fewer moving parts. t On Fri, Aug 14, 2009 at 6:11 PM, Tom Jenkins<tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Joe, I consider following directions a last resort. I hope you meant 12-15", not 12-15', since that conveys quite the image. I still want to try the corner cleats, because I already have a useless cam for the pullup rudder, which I don't use.
My trig says your device is 12-15" up the tiller handle, if you really did follow the directions.
Thanks for your comments, and happy sailing. Tom
----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Murphy" <seagray@embarqmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 5:13 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Tom, I followed the directions (say it ain't so, Joe). On the transom edge where the hull and deck flange is located I put a small pad eye about 12-15' away from the rudder on the port side and a camcleat the same distance on the starboard side. I don't know the exact measurements of where I drilled the holes in the tiller but I can get them for you. Joe Seafrog M17 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Jenkins" <tjenk@gte.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 7:19 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Chad, Pictures would indeed be very helpful. Chances are if I took a guess, I would end up drilling more than one set of holes in the laminated tiller. Thanks much.
Tom Jenkins
----- Original Message ----- From: "Chad Parrish" <cparrish@fafnirnet.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 12:37 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Hi Tom,
I have a tiller tamer on my M17 and used the stern side cleats for it and it has worked really well. I can snap a couple of pictures this weekend if you would like to see how I have it set up.
--Chad
On Aug 14, 2009, at 1:36 PM, Tom Jenkins wrote:
Kind folks,
I have a Tiller-Tamer sitting around that I thought might work for my 17 with an IdaSailor rudder. I don't want to mount new cleats, so I would like to use the side stern cleats for the T-T line. The geometry does not meet the specs in the mounting instructions (it would have to be too far forward to make a right angle), but I am wondering if one of you has mounted one further back with success. If so, how far is the T-T sheave center from the pivot point on the rudder?
Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 hull #686 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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Tom, I think I can picture bungee loops joined in the center by a line that runs through the cleat, but I can't figure why the line doesn't pop out of an upside down jam cleat, and how a jam cleat can hold in both directions. Intriguing. TJ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Smith" <openboatt@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 8:03 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory Yeah, try the corner cleats before you drill holes. I hate drilling holes in perfectly good fg. I don't use a tt now, though I have used one in the past. I like a couple of bungee loops with line in between and a jam cleat on the bottom of the tiller. Probably not as easily adjusted, but in my mind low tech is less intrusive. Certainly fewer moving parts. t On Fri, Aug 14, 2009 at 6:11 PM, Tom Jenkins<tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Joe, I consider following directions a last resort. I hope you meant 12-15", not 12-15', since that conveys quite the image. I still want to try the corner cleats, because I already have a useless cam for the pullup rudder, which I don't use.
My trig says your device is 12-15" up the tiller handle, if you really did follow the directions.
Thanks for your comments, and happy sailing. Tom
----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Murphy" <seagray@embarqmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 5:13 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Tom, I followed the directions (say it ain't so, Joe). On the transom edge where the hull and deck flange is located I put a small pad eye about 12-15' away from the rudder on the port side and a camcleat the same distance on the starboard side. I don't know the exact measurements of where I drilled the holes in the tiller but I can get them for you. Joe Seafrog M17 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Jenkins" <tjenk@gte.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 7:19 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Chad, Pictures would indeed be very helpful. Chances are if I took a guess, I would end up drilling more than one set of holes in the laminated tiller. Thanks much.
Tom Jenkins
----- Original Message ----- From: "Chad Parrish" <cparrish@fafnirnet.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 12:37 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Hi Tom,
I have a tiller tamer on my M17 and used the stern side cleats for it and it has worked really well. I can snap a couple of pictures this weekend if you would like to see how I have it set up.
--Chad
On Aug 14, 2009, at 1:36 PM, Tom Jenkins wrote:
Kind folks,
I have a Tiller-Tamer sitting around that I thought might work for my 17 with an IdaSailor rudder. I don't want to mount new cleats, so I would like to use the side stern cleats for the T-T line. The geometry does not meet the specs in the mounting instructions (it would have to be too far forward to make a right angle), but I am wondering if one of you has mounted one further back with success. If so, how far is the T-T sheave center from the pivot point on the rudder?
Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 hull #686 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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Perhaps it is a nomenclature issue. Some people think of a Clam cleat as a Jam cleat: Horned cleat Jam cleat Clam cleat Cam cleat http://content.answers.com/main/content/img/McGrawHill/boating/f0059-02.png Tod
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Tom Jenkins Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 2:15 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Tom, I think I can picture bungee loops joined in the center by a line that runs through the cleat, but I can't figure why the line doesn't pop out of an upside down jam cleat, and how a jam cleat can hold in both directions. Intriguing.
TJ
----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Smith" <openboatt@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 8:03 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Yeah, try the corner cleats before you drill holes. I hate drilling holes in perfectly good fg.
I don't use a tt now, though I have used one in the past. I like a couple of bungee loops with line in between and a jam cleat on the bottom of the tiller. Probably not as easily adjusted, but in my mind low tech is less intrusive. Certainly fewer moving parts. t
On Fri, Aug 14, 2009 at 6:11 PM, Tom Jenkins<tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Joe, I consider following directions a last resort. I hope you meant 12- 15", not 12-15', since that conveys quite the image. I still want to try the corner cleats, because I already have a useless cam for the pullup rudder, which I don't use.
My trig says your device is 12-15" up the tiller handle, if you really did follow the directions.
Thanks for your comments, and happy sailing. Tom
----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Murphy" <seagray@embarqmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 5:13 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Tom, I followed the directions (say it ain't so, Joe). On the transom edge where the hull and deck flange is located I put a small pad eye about 12-15' away from the rudder on the port side and a camcleat the same distance on the starboard side. I don't know the exact measurements of where I drilled the holes in the tiller but I can get them for you. Joe Seafrog M17 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Jenkins" <tjenk@gte.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 7:19 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Chad, Pictures would indeed be very helpful. Chances are if I took a guess, I would end up drilling more than one set of holes in the laminated tiller. Thanks much.
Tom Jenkins
----- Original Message ----- From: "Chad Parrish" <cparrish@fafnirnet.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 12:37 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Hi Tom,
I have a tiller tamer on my M17 and used the stern side cleats for it and it has worked really well. I can snap a couple of pictures this weekend if you would like to see how I have it set up.
--Chad
On Aug 14, 2009, at 1:36 PM, Tom Jenkins wrote:
Kind folks,
I have a Tiller-Tamer sitting around that I thought might work for my 17 with an IdaSailor rudder. I don't want to mount new cleats, so I would like to use the side stern cleats for the T-T line. The geometry does not meet the specs in the mounting instructions (it would have to be too far forward to make a right angle), but I am wondering if one of you has mounted one further back with success. If so, how far is the T-T sheave center from the pivot point on the rudder?
Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 hull #686 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi- bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi- bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi- bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.392 / Virus Database: 270.13.56/2302 - Release Date: 08/15/09 06:10:00
Point well made. I don't see much "clam" in a clam cleat, but there it is in print. The Ronstan name "V-Cleat" seems more descriptive, and "Clamcleat" is a registered brand name. "Whatever", as today's youth are wont to say. ----- Original Message ----- From: <htmills@zoominternet.net> To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 1:46 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Perhaps it is a nomenclature issue. Some people think of a Clam cleat as a Jam cleat:
Horned cleat Jam cleat Clam cleat Cam cleat
http://content.answers.com/main/content/img/McGrawHill/boating/f0059-02.png
Tod
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Tom Jenkins Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 2:15 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Tom, I think I can picture bungee loops joined in the center by a line that runs through the cleat, but I can't figure why the line doesn't pop out of an upside down jam cleat, and how a jam cleat can hold in both directions. Intriguing.
TJ
----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Smith" <openboatt@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 8:03 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Yeah, try the corner cleats before you drill holes. I hate drilling holes in perfectly good fg.
I don't use a tt now, though I have used one in the past. I like a couple of bungee loops with line in between and a jam cleat on the bottom of the tiller. Probably not as easily adjusted, but in my mind low tech is less intrusive. Certainly fewer moving parts. t
On Fri, Aug 14, 2009 at 6:11 PM, Tom Jenkins<tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Joe, I consider following directions a last resort. I hope you meant 12- 15", not 12-15', since that conveys quite the image. I still want to try the corner cleats, because I already have a useless cam for the pullup rudder, which I don't use.
My trig says your device is 12-15" up the tiller handle, if you really did follow the directions.
Thanks for your comments, and happy sailing. Tom
----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Murphy" <seagray@embarqmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 5:13 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Tom, I followed the directions (say it ain't so, Joe). On the transom edge where the hull and deck flange is located I put a small pad eye about 12-15' away from the rudder on the port side and a camcleat the same distance on the starboard side. I don't know the exact measurements of where I drilled the holes in the tiller but I can get them for you. Joe Seafrog M17 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Jenkins" <tjenk@gte.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 7:19 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Chad, Pictures would indeed be very helpful. Chances are if I took a guess, I would end up drilling more than one set of holes in the laminated tiller. Thanks much.
Tom Jenkins
----- Original Message ----- From: "Chad Parrish" <cparrish@fafnirnet.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 12:37 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Hi Tom,
I have a tiller tamer on my M17 and used the stern side cleats for it and it has worked really well. I can snap a couple of pictures this weekend if you would like to see how I have it set up.
--Chad
On Aug 14, 2009, at 1:36 PM, Tom Jenkins wrote:
> Kind folks, > > I have a Tiller-Tamer sitting around that I thought might work for my > 17 with an IdaSailor rudder. I don't want to mount new cleats, so I > would > like to use the side stern cleats for the T-T line. The geometry does > not > meet the specs in the mounting instructions (it would have to be too > far > forward to make a right angle), but I am wondering if one of you has > mounted > one further back with success. If so, how far is the T-T sheave center > from the pivot point on the rudder? > > Thanks, > Tom Jenkins > M17 hull #686 > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi- bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
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Hi Tom. Sorry I didn't reply sooner...missed you question. The jam cleat (a relatively small one--4 inches mebbe?) is attached to the bottom of the tiller half way up towards the business end, with the jam side of the cleat facing forward (a jam cleat looks like a horn cleat, but one side has a sort of sharper V, which wedges the line). The bungee loops (let's say 10 inches in dia.) just drop over the aft horn cleats and the line that connects them (probably a couple/three feet in length--your lengths may vary) is stretched forward and captured in the jam cleat. The loops stretch and the line is under tension and holds the rudder on whatever course you choose (withing reason, the more past 45 degrees you set the rudder, the more questionable the holding power). I can send you a pic if you like... tom On Sat, Aug 15, 2009 at 11:14 AM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Tom, I think I can picture bungee loops joined in the center by a line that runs through the cleat, but I can't figure why the line doesn't pop out of an upside down jam cleat, and how a jam cleat can hold in both directions. Intriguing.
TJ
----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Smith" <openboatt@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 8:03 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Yeah, try the corner cleats before you drill holes. I hate drilling holes in perfectly good fg.
I don't use a tt now, though I have used one in the past. I like a couple of bungee loops with line in between and a jam cleat on the bottom of the tiller. Probably not as easily adjusted, but in my mind low tech is less intrusive. Certainly fewer moving parts. t
On Fri, Aug 14, 2009 at 6:11 PM, Tom Jenkins<tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Joe, I consider following directions a last resort. I hope you meant 12-15", not 12-15', since that conveys quite the image. I still want to try the corner cleats, because I already have a useless cam for the pullup rudder, which I don't use.
My trig says your device is 12-15" up the tiller handle, if you really did follow the directions.
Thanks for your comments, and happy sailing. Tom
----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Murphy" <seagray@embarqmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 5:13 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Tom,
I followed the directions (say it ain't so, Joe). On the transom edge where the hull and deck flange is located I put a small pad eye about 12-15' away from the rudder on the port side and a camcleat the same distance on the starboard side. I don't know the exact measurements of where I drilled the holes in the tiller but I can get them for you. Joe Seafrog M17 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Jenkins" <tjenk@gte.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 7:19 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Chad,
Pictures would indeed be very helpful. Chances are if I took a guess, I would end up drilling more than one set of holes in the laminated tiller. Thanks much.
Tom Jenkins
----- Original Message ----- From: "Chad Parrish" <cparrish@fafnirnet.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 12:37 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Hi Tom,
I have a tiller tamer on my M17 and used the stern side cleats for it and it has worked really well. I can snap a couple of pictures this weekend if you would like to see how I have it set up.
--Chad
On Aug 14, 2009, at 1:36 PM, Tom Jenkins wrote:
Kind folks,
I have a Tiller-Tamer sitting around that I thought might work for my 17 with an IdaSailor rudder. I don't want to mount new cleats, so I would like to use the side stern cleats for the T-T line. The geometry does not meet the specs in the mounting instructions (it would have to be too far forward to make a right angle), but I am wondering if one of you has mounted one further back with success. If so, how far is the T-T sheave center from the pivot point on the rudder?
Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 hull #686 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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Tom, Pretty clever, if one can find a jam cleat smaller than the West Marine 6 incher. Now that I actually know what a jam cleat is, I can weigh that tactic against the Tiller-Tamer. I'm betting others have come up with some good solutions, but these two are quite servicable. Thanks for the help. Tom Jenkins ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Smith" <openboatt@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 5:22 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Hi Tom. Sorry I didn't reply sooner...missed you question. The jam cleat (a relatively small one--4 inches mebbe?) is attached to the bottom of the tiller half way up towards the business end, with the jam side of the cleat facing forward (a jam cleat looks like a horn cleat, but one side has a sort of sharper V, which wedges the line). The bungee loops (let's say 10 inches in dia.) just drop over the aft horn cleats and the line that connects them (probably a couple/three feet in length--your lengths may vary) is stretched forward and captured in the jam cleat. The loops stretch and the line is under tension and holds the rudder on whatever course you choose (withing reason, the more past 45 degrees you set the rudder, the more questionable the holding power). I can send you a pic if you like... tom
On Sat, Aug 15, 2009 at 11:14 AM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Tom, I think I can picture bungee loops joined in the center by a line that runs through the cleat, but I can't figure why the line doesn't pop out of an upside down jam cleat, and how a jam cleat can hold in both directions. Intriguing.
TJ
----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Smith" <openboatt@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 8:03 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Yeah, try the corner cleats before you drill holes. I hate drilling holes in perfectly good fg.
I don't use a tt now, though I have used one in the past. I like a couple of bungee loops with line in between and a jam cleat on the bottom of the tiller. Probably not as easily adjusted, but in my mind low tech is less intrusive. Certainly fewer moving parts. t
On Fri, Aug 14, 2009 at 6:11 PM, Tom Jenkins<tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Joe, I consider following directions a last resort. I hope you meant 12-15", not 12-15', since that conveys quite the image. I still want to try the corner cleats, because I already have a useless cam for the pullup rudder, which I don't use.
My trig says your device is 12-15" up the tiller handle, if you really did follow the directions.
Thanks for your comments, and happy sailing. Tom
----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Murphy" <seagray@embarqmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 5:13 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Tom,
I followed the directions (say it ain't so, Joe). On the transom edge where the hull and deck flange is located I put a small pad eye about 12-15' away from the rudder on the port side and a camcleat the same distance on the starboard side. I don't know the exact measurements of where I drilled the holes in the tiller but I can get them for you. Joe Seafrog M17 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Jenkins" <tjenk@gte.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 7:19 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Chad,
Pictures would indeed be very helpful. Chances are if I took a guess, I would end up drilling more than one set of holes in the laminated tiller. Thanks much.
Tom Jenkins
----- Original Message ----- From: "Chad Parrish" <cparrish@fafnirnet.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 12:37 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: tiller accessory
Hi Tom,
I have a tiller tamer on my M17 and used the stern side cleats for it and it has worked really well. I can snap a couple of pictures this weekend if you would like to see how I have it set up.
--Chad
On Aug 14, 2009, at 1:36 PM, Tom Jenkins wrote:
Kind folks, > > I have a Tiller-Tamer sitting around that I thought might work for > my > 17 with an IdaSailor rudder. I don't want to mount new cleats, so I > would > like to use the side stern cleats for the T-T line. The geometry > does > not > meet the specs in the mounting instructions (it would have to be too > far > forward to make a right angle), but I am wondering if one of you has > mounted > one further back with success. If so, how far is the T-T sheave > center > from the pivot point on the rudder? > > Thanks, > Tom Jenkins > M17 hull #686 > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! >
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It's inexpensive and unobtrusive. Two of my two favorite characteristics. The jam cleat I used actually came off the mast of my former M15 (I replaced two of them with larger horn cleats--I thought they were a little wimpy...). TT works fine--I've still got a couple of them kicking around my shop from past adventures. Oh so many things to fool around with... t
participants (12)
-
Bill Wickett -
Chad Parrish -
Gary M Hyde -
George Burmeyer -
htmills＠zoominternet.net -
Joe Murphy -
lon zimmerman -
Rick Davies -
Ronnie Keeler -
saltm17＠aol.com -
Tom Jenkins -
Tom Smith