Hello gang, Finding about about my 2004 Montgomery 17 has been a quest, since it did not (to my knowledge) come with an instruction manual. I have learned much from this forum, but a couple of blanks I thought one of you might be able to help with. One is how deep a late-model Pacific trailer has to go to float the boat on and off. One fellow told me that the water has to be 4' deep at the wheels to float a 17, but I have always been too busy at launching time to measure it; anyone know? The other question has to do with the centerboard pendant. It is obviously a hefty line, but I don't know how it is fastened to the board, and I would not know how to fix it if it came loose. Everything seems to be enclosed by glass. I also wonder if the board would fold up on the trailer if one could not retract it. I would not like to swim upside down holding it in as the boat is going on. Thanks for any information you can provide. Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla, Hull 626.
Hello Tom. I don't know much about how the later model M17s are put together, but I assume not a whole lot different from the Jerry-built boats. Trailer-wise, just back the dude into the lake until the boat floats off. 4 inches at the wheels doesn't sound like near enough in my experience, but I don't know if the trailer design has changed dramatically or not. It's a good idea to let the hubs cool off a bit before you launch, but since it's going to take you several hours to rig, that's probably not a problem (just kidding--leftover from an earlier discussion). I manage to fully submerge my trailer at the wheels each time I launch or retrieve. Re the CB pendant. I have to think not much has changed there. I've had an iron CB apart, but not the glass board. Totally different animal. Somebody well versed is probably better on this topic. Best. tjs On Sat, May 28, 2011 at 4:51 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Hello gang, Finding about about my 2004 Montgomery 17 has been a quest, since it did not (to my knowledge) come with an instruction manual. I have learned much from this forum, but a couple of blanks I thought one of you might be able to help with. One is how deep a late-model Pacific trailer has to go to float the boat on and off. One fellow told me that the water has to be 4' deep at the wheels to float a 17, but I have always been too busy at launching time to measure it; anyone know? The other question has to do with the centerboard pendant. It is obviously a hefty line, but I don't know how it is fastened to the board, and I would not know how to fix it if it came loose. Everything seems to be enclosed by glass. I also wonder if the board would fold up on the trailer if one could not retract it. I would not like to swim upside down holding it in as the boat is going on. Thanks for any information you can provide. Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla, Hull 626.
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Tom, I should have spelled out the depth, which was 4 feet, not inches. The wheels are definitely underwater. The reason I want to know is that driving several hundred miles to a lake and not being able to launch the boat would be a bummer. Evidently that happened to the owner who gave me the 4 foot estimate. A tongue extension is fine for a shallow-angle ramp, but not if the lake drops too far on the ramp. No doubt someone knows about the pendant; maybe it is bulletproof, which is to say it will outlive me. Thanks for chiming in. TJ On May 28, 2011, at 5:40 PM, Tom Smith wrote:
Hello Tom. I don't know much about how the later model M17s are put together, but I assume not a whole lot different from the Jerry-built boats. Trailer-wise, just back the dude into the lake until the boat floats off. 4 inches at the wheels doesn't sound like near enough in my experience, but I don't know if the trailer design has changed dramatically or not. It's a good idea to let the hubs cool off a bit before you launch, but since it's going to take you several hours to rig, that's probably not a problem (just kidding--leftover from an earlier discussion). I manage to fully submerge my trailer at the wheels each time I launch or retrieve.
Re the CB pendant. I have to think not much has changed there. I've had an iron CB apart, but not the glass board. Totally different animal. Somebody well versed is probably better on this topic. Best. tjs
On Sat, May 28, 2011 at 4:51 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Hello gang, Finding about about my 2004 Montgomery 17 has been a quest, since it did not (to my knowledge) come with an instruction manual. I have learned much from this forum, but a couple of blanks I thought one of you might be able to help with. One is how deep a late-model Pacific trailer has to go to float the boat on and off. One fellow told me that the water has to be 4' deep at the wheels to float a 17, but I have always been too busy at launching time to measure it; anyone know? The other question has to do with the centerboard pendant. It is obviously a hefty line, but I don't know how it is fastened to the board, and I would not know how to fix it if it came loose. Everything seems to be enclosed by glass. I also wonder if the board would fold up on the trailer if one could not retract it. I would not like to swim upside down holding it in as the boat is going on. Thanks for any information you can provide. Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla, Hull 626.
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Tom, For me trailer depth is in relation to the bunks. When launching I have the extension out and just back in until I see the boat start to float. This has required the entire trailer, hitch and my camper bumper to be submerged at times, which I hate to do in salt water, but that is the price to pay to go sailing. For getting to boat back on the trailer I find that if I have the bunks underwater with just the tip out of the water at the front that is usually just right. I just went out and measured from the ground (at the wheel) to the bunk and it is around 40" to get just above the bunk, so I would say between 40 and 48" is in the range. Depends on how steep the ramp is as well. With a steep ramp you could have the forward part of the boat resting on the bunks but could push it off into the water. Hope things are going well at June Lake! Jim M-17 #603 Grace -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Tom Jenkins Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2011 5:48 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Mysteries Tom, I should have spelled out the depth, which was 4 feet, not inches. The wheels are definitely underwater. The reason I want to know is that driving several hundred miles to a lake and not being able to launch the boat would be a bummer. Evidently that happened to the owner who gave me the 4 foot estimate. A tongue extension is fine for a shallow-angle ramp, but not if the lake drops too far on the ramp. No doubt someone knows about the pendant; maybe it is bulletproof, which is to say it will outlive me. Thanks for chiming in. TJ On May 28, 2011, at 5:40 PM, Tom Smith wrote:
Hello Tom. I don't know much about how the later model M17s are put together, but I assume not a whole lot different from the Jerry-built boats. Trailer-wise, just back the dude into the lake until the boat floats off. 4 inches at the wheels doesn't sound like near enough in my experience, but I don't know if the trailer design has changed dramatically or not. It's a good idea to let the hubs cool off a bit before you launch, but since it's going to take you several hours to rig, that's probably not a problem (just kidding--leftover from an earlier discussion). I manage to fully submerge my trailer at the wheels each time I launch or retrieve.
Re the CB pendant. I have to think not much has changed there. I've had an iron CB apart, but not the glass board. Totally different animal. Somebody well versed is probably better on this topic. Best. tjs
On Sat, May 28, 2011 at 4:51 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Hello gang, Finding about about my 2004 Montgomery 17 has been a quest, since it did not (to my knowledge) come with an instruction manual. I have learned much from this forum, but a couple of blanks I thought one of you might be able to help with. One is how deep a late-model Pacific trailer has to go to float the boat on and off. One fellow told me that the water has to be 4' deep at the wheels to float a 17, but I have always been too busy at launching time to measure it; anyone know? The other question has to do with the centerboard pendant. It is obviously a hefty line, but I don't know how it is fastened to the board, and I would not know how to fix it if it came loose. Everything seems to be enclosed by glass. I also wonder if the board would fold up on the trailer if one could not retract it. I would not like to swim upside down holding it in as the boat is going on. Thanks for any information you can provide. Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla, Hull 626.
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_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats When posting, remember that there is no privacy on the Internet! ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.1375 / Virus Database: 1509/3666 - Release Date: 05/28/11
Jim, Sounds like 4 feet might be a good ballpark figure after all. Ideally, one should have a down-sized version of those boat- transporting lowboys with supports that rise up and cradle the boat at the push of a button. Things are great in June Lake, although it is snowing too hard today for me to work on the boat (I know, what a wimp!). At Anacortes, you will be missed. Tom On May 29, 2011, at 7:43 AM, Jim Ellsworth wrote:
Tom,
For me trailer depth is in relation to the bunks. When launching I have the extension out and just back in until I see the boat start to float. This has required the entire trailer, hitch and my camper bumper to be submerged at times, which I hate to do in salt water, but that is the price to pay to go sailing.
For getting to boat back on the trailer I find that if I have the bunks underwater with just the tip out of the water at the front that is usually just right. I just went out and measured from the ground (at the wheel) to the bunk and it is around 40" to get just above the bunk, so I would say between 40 and 48" is in the range. Depends on how steep the ramp is as well. With a steep ramp you could have the forward part of the boat resting on the bunks but could push it off into the water.
Hope things are going well at June Lake!
Jim M-17 #603 Grace
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Tom Jenkins Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2011 5:48 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Mysteries
Tom, I should have spelled out the depth, which was 4 feet, not inches. The wheels are definitely underwater. The reason I want to know is that driving several hundred miles to a lake and not being able to launch the boat would be a bummer. Evidently that happened to the owner who gave me the 4 foot estimate. A tongue extension is fine for a shallow-angle ramp, but not if the lake drops too far on the ramp. No doubt someone knows about the pendant; maybe it is bulletproof, which is to say it will outlive me. Thanks for chiming in. TJ
On May 28, 2011, at 5:40 PM, Tom Smith wrote:
Hello Tom. I don't know much about how the later model M17s are put together, but I assume not a whole lot different from the Jerry-built boats. Trailer-wise, just back the dude into the lake until the boat floats off. 4 inches at the wheels doesn't sound like near enough in my experience, but I don't know if the trailer design has changed dramatically or not. It's a good idea to let the hubs cool off a bit before you launch, but since it's going to take you several hours to rig, that's probably not a problem (just kidding--leftover from an earlier discussion). I manage to fully submerge my trailer at the wheels each time I launch or retrieve.
Re the CB pendant. I have to think not much has changed there. I've had an iron CB apart, but not the glass board. Totally different animal. Somebody well versed is probably better on this topic. Best. tjs
On Sat, May 28, 2011 at 4:51 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Hello gang, Finding about about my 2004 Montgomery 17 has been a quest, since it did not (to my knowledge) come with an instruction manual. I have learned much from this forum, but a couple of blanks I thought one of you might be able to help with. One is how deep a late-model Pacific trailer has to go to float the boat on and off. One fellow told me that the water has to be 4' deep at the wheels to float a 17, but I have always been too busy at launching time to measure it; anyone know? The other question has to do with the centerboard pendant. It is obviously a hefty line, but I don't know how it is fastened to the board, and I would not know how to fix it if it came loose. Everything seems to be enclosed by glass. I also wonder if the board would fold up on the trailer if one could not retract it. I would not like to swim upside down holding it in as the boat is going on. Thanks for any information you can provide. Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla, Hull 626.
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Tom: I usually back the trailer in until the fenders are submerged and then hit the brakes. The boat will slide off the trailer(assuming I remembered to unhook the trailer winch hook, etc. of course!). I tie the bow line to something or someone to retrieve the boat. ~~~_/)~~~ Gary Sent from my iPhone :-) On May 28, 2011, at 5:48 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Tom, I should have spelled out the depth, which was 4 feet, not inches. The wheels are definitely underwater. The reason I want to know is that driving several hundred miles to a lake and not being able to launch the boat would be a bummer. Evidently that happened to the owner who gave me the 4 foot estimate. A tongue extension is fine for a shallow-angle ramp, but not if the lake drops too far on the ramp. No doubt someone knows about the pendant; maybe it is bulletproof, which is to say it will outlive me. Thanks for chiming in. TJ
On May 28, 2011, at 5:40 PM, Tom Smith wrote:
Hello Tom. I don't know much about how the later model M17s are put together, but I assume not a whole lot different from the Jerry-built boats. Trailer-wise, just back the dude into the lake until the boat floats off. 4 inches at the wheels doesn't sound like near enough in my experience, but I don't know if the trailer design has changed dramatically or not. It's a good idea to let the hubs cool off a bit before you launch, but since it's going to take you several hours to rig, that's probably not a problem (just kidding--leftover from an earlier discussion). I manage to fully submerge my trailer at the wheels each time I launch or retrieve.
Re the CB pendant. I have to think not much has changed there. I've had an iron CB apart, but not the glass board. Totally different animal. Somebody well versed is probably better on this topic. Best. tjs
On Sat, May 28, 2011 at 4:51 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Hello gang, Finding about about my 2004 Montgomery 17 has been a quest, since it did not (to my knowledge) come with an instruction manual. I have learned much from this forum, but a couple of blanks I thought one of you might be able to help with. One is how deep a late-model Pacific trailer has to go to float the boat on and off. One fellow told me that the water has to be 4' deep at the wheels to float a 17, but I have always been too busy at launching time to measure it; anyone know? The other question has to do with the centerboard pendant. It is obviously a hefty line, but I don't know how it is fastened to the board, and I would not know how to fix it if it came loose. Everything seems to be enclosed by glass. I also wonder if the board would fold up on the trailer if one could not retract it. I would not like to swim upside down holding it in as the boat is going on. Thanks for any information you can provide. Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla, Hull 626.
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Gary, The details you mention are darned important, and I have omitted one of the other at least once in my life. I guess the plan is to find the best ramp available and do what it takes to prevail; life is adaptation, after all. Tom On May 29, 2011, at 8:59 AM, Gary M Hyde wrote:
Tom: I usually back the trailer in until the fenders are submerged and then hit the brakes. The boat will slide off the trailer(assuming I remembered to unhook the trailer winch hook, etc. of course!). I tie the bow line to something or someone to retrieve the boat.
~~~_/)~~~ Gary Sent from my iPhone :-)
On May 28, 2011, at 5:48 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Tom, I should have spelled out the depth, which was 4 feet, not inches. The wheels are definitely underwater. The reason I want to know is that driving several hundred miles to a lake and not being able to launch the boat would be a bummer. Evidently that happened to the owner who gave me the 4 foot estimate. A tongue extension is fine for a shallow-angle ramp, but not if the lake drops too far on the ramp. No doubt someone knows about the pendant; maybe it is bulletproof, which is to say it will outlive me. Thanks for chiming in. TJ
On May 28, 2011, at 5:40 PM, Tom Smith wrote:
Hello Tom. I don't know much about how the later model M17s are put together, but I assume not a whole lot different from the Jerry- built boats. Trailer-wise, just back the dude into the lake until the boat floats off. 4 inches at the wheels doesn't sound like near enough in my experience, but I don't know if the trailer design has changed dramatically or not. It's a good idea to let the hubs cool off a bit before you launch, but since it's going to take you several hours to rig, that's probably not a problem (just kidding--leftover from an earlier discussion). I manage to fully submerge my trailer at the wheels each time I launch or retrieve.
Re the CB pendant. I have to think not much has changed there. I've had an iron CB apart, but not the glass board. Totally different animal. Somebody well versed is probably better on this topic. Best. tjs
On Sat, May 28, 2011 at 4:51 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Hello gang, Finding about about my 2004 Montgomery 17 has been a quest, since it did not (to my knowledge) come with an instruction manual. I have learned much from this forum, but a couple of blanks I thought one of you might be able to help with. One is how deep a late-model Pacific trailer has to go to float the boat on and off. One fellow told me that the water has to be 4' deep at the wheels to float a 17, but I have always been too busy at launching time to measure it; anyone know? The other question has to do with the centerboard pendant. It is obviously a hefty line, but I don't know how it is fastened to the board, and I would not know how to fix it if it came loose. Everything seems to be enclosed by glass. I also wonder if the board would fold up on the trailer if one could not retract it. I would not like to swim upside down holding it in as the boat is going on. Thanks for any information you can provide. Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla, Hull 626.
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tom: for the M15s, and the non-cast-iron centerboard M17s replace the pendent about every 6ish years. the pendent is a 5/16" line. the knot holding the line to the board must be small enough that you do not jam the pendant in the centerboard slot. to do this cut out just enough of the line's inner core and tie a compact figure-eight knot. remember to tie a knot on the cockpit end of the pendant so it stops on the board overextending. the line should stop the centerboard from exiting the centerboard. note the length of the line from the end tied to the board and the 'stop knot' on the old pendant. to replace the pendent you need to lift the boat from the trailer. the centerboard is about 45 pounds. :: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 - SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com :: Sage Marine - reserve your Sage 17 today - www.sagemarine.com --- On Sat, 5/28/11, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
The other question has to do with the centerboard pendant. It is obviously a hefty line, but I don't know how it is fastened to the board, and I would not know how to fix it if it came loose. Everything seems to be enclosed by glass. I also wonder if the board would fold up on the trailer if one could not retract it. I would not like to swim upside down holding it in as the boat is going on. Thanks for any information you can provide. Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla, Hull 626.
Dave, If I understand your meaning, replacing the pendant either requires knocking the pin out and dropping the board to get at the tackle or shackle, or maybe the centerboard will pivot far enough so the fastening point is visible (hopefully the latter). Gosh, it would be great to have a book about M-boats, with scale diagrams of parts you can and can't see, and instructions on what to do for maintenance. A lot to ask, I guess, since manuals by billion-dollar corporations can be obscure and/or incomplete. Glad we have you and your knowledgeable kind to help us through the rough spots. Tom Jenkins Scintilla M-17 On May 28, 2011, at 9:13 PM, W David Scobie wrote:
tom:
for the M15s, and the non-cast-iron centerboard M17s replace the pendent about every 6ish years.
the pendent is a 5/16" line. the knot holding the line to the board must be small enough that you do not jam the pendant in the centerboard slot. to do this cut out just enough of the line's inner core and tie a compact figure-eight knot.
remember to tie a knot on the cockpit end of the pendant so it stops on the board overextending. the line should stop the centerboard from exiting the centerboard. note the length of the line from the end tied to the board and the 'stop knot' on the old pendant.
to replace the pendent you need to lift the boat from the trailer.
the centerboard is about 45 pounds.
:: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 - SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com :: Sage Marine - reserve your Sage 17 today - www.sagemarine.com
--- On Sat, 5/28/11, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
The other question has to do with the centerboard pendant. It is obviously a hefty line, but I don't know how it is fastened to the board, and I would not know how to fix it if it came loose. Everything seems to be enclosed by glass. I also wonder if the board would fold up on the trailer if one could not retract it. I would not like to swim upside down holding it in as the boat is going on. Thanks for any information you can provide. Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla, Hull 626.
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Tom: I just went through the same thought process as you, but with an older cast iron CB M-17. I read everything I could find about how to take the CB out, as mine was in bad shape. Not sure but I think the fiberglass CB models fit like the older ones, but instead of 170 lb, you only have about 45 lb. to deal with. There's lots of good info on these sites: http://msog.org/how-to/how-to.cfm http://www.msogphotosite.com/M17MM.html The photo site has info specifically about the fiberglass CB. Some folks have removed CBs by moving the boat back on the trailer, then jacking up the sterm. Others park over a ditch. Anyhow, I ended up finding a boat shop with a gantry crane to lift the boat. Expensive, but I was able to fix everything underneath that I thought needed attention, including a full inspection of the CB trunk. Good luck! Mark House ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Jenkins" <tjenk@gte.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2011 2:18 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Mysteries - centerboard pendent
Dave, If I understand your meaning, replacing the pendant either requires knocking the pin out and dropping the board to get at the tackle or shackle, or maybe the centerboard will pivot far enough so the fastening point is visible (hopefully the latter). Gosh, it would be great to have a book about M-boats, with scale diagrams of parts you can and can't see, and instructions on what to do for maintenance. A lot to ask, I guess, since manuals by billion-dollar corporations can be obscure and/or incomplete. Glad we have you and your knowledgeable kind to help us through the rough spots. Tom Jenkins Scintilla M-17
On May 28, 2011, at 9:13 PM, W David Scobie wrote:
tom:
for the M15s, and the non-cast-iron centerboard M17s replace the pendent about every 6ish years.
the pendent is a 5/16" line. the knot holding the line to the board must be small enough that you do not jam the pendant in the centerboard slot. to do this cut out just enough of the line's inner core and tie a compact figure-eight knot.
remember to tie a knot on the cockpit end of the pendant so it stops on the board overextending. the line should stop the centerboard from exiting the centerboard. note the length of the line from the end tied to the board and the 'stop knot' on the old pendant.
to replace the pendent you need to lift the boat from the trailer.
the centerboard is about 45 pounds.
:: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 - SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com :: Sage Marine - reserve your Sage 17 today - www.sagemarine.com
--- On Sat, 5/28/11, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
The other question has to do with the centerboard pendant. It is obviously a hefty line, but I don't know how it is fastened to the board, and I would not know how to fix it if it came loose. Everything seems to be enclosed by glass. I also wonder if the board would fold up on the trailer if one could not retract it. I would not like to swim upside down holding it in as the boat is going on. Thanks for any information you can provide. Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla, Hull 626.
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Mark, I never thought about going to the msog site; what a dope. Thanks for the suggestion. Tom On May 29, 2011, at 1:50 PM, Mark House wrote:
Tom:
I just went through the same thought process as you, but with an older cast iron CB M-17. I read everything I could find about how to take the CB out, as mine was in bad shape. Not sure but I think the fiberglass CB models fit like the older ones, but instead of 170 lb, you only have about 45 lb. to deal with. There's lots of good info on these sites:
http://msog.org/how-to/how-to.cfm
http://www.msogphotosite.com/M17MM.html
The photo site has info specifically about the fiberglass CB. Some folks have removed CBs by moving the boat back on the trailer, then jacking up the sterm. Others park over a ditch. Anyhow, I ended up finding a boat shop with a gantry crane to lift the boat. Expensive, but I was able to fix everything underneath that I thought needed attention, including a full inspection of the CB trunk. Good luck!
Mark House
----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Jenkins" <tjenk@gte.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2011 2:18 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Mysteries - centerboard pendent
Dave, If I understand your meaning, replacing the pendant either requires knocking the pin out and dropping the board to get at the tackle or shackle, or maybe the centerboard will pivot far enough so the fastening point is visible (hopefully the latter). Gosh, it would be great to have a book about M-boats, with scale diagrams of parts you can and can't see, and instructions on what to do for maintenance. A lot to ask, I guess, since manuals by billion-dollar corporations can be obscure and/or incomplete. Glad we have you and your knowledgeable kind to help us through the rough spots. Tom Jenkins Scintilla M-17
On May 28, 2011, at 9:13 PM, W David Scobie wrote:
tom:
for the M15s, and the non-cast-iron centerboard M17s replace the pendent about every 6ish years.
the pendent is a 5/16" line. the knot holding the line to the board must be small enough that you do not jam the pendant in the centerboard slot. to do this cut out just enough of the line's inner core and tie a compact figure-eight knot.
remember to tie a knot on the cockpit end of the pendant so it stops on the board overextending. the line should stop the centerboard from exiting the centerboard. note the length of the line from the end tied to the board and the 'stop knot' on the old pendant.
to replace the pendent you need to lift the boat from the trailer.
the centerboard is about 45 pounds.
:: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 - SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com :: Sage Marine - reserve your Sage 17 today - www.sagemarine.com
--- On Sat, 5/28/11, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
The other question has to do with the centerboard pendant. It is obviously a hefty line, but I don't know how it is fastened to the board, and I would not know how to fix it if it came loose. Everything seems to be enclosed by glass. I also wonder if the board would fold up on the trailer if one could not retract it. I would not like to swim upside down holding it in as the boat is going on. Thanks for any information you can provide. Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla, Hull 626.
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the M15 and M17 began to share the same centerboard about 1990. the M15 centerboard is much smaller than the cast iron M17's. you don't need to 'drop' the centerboard to change the pendent. you just need to 'over extend' the board to reach the attachment point. i don't believe the 'M15 centerboard M17's' have a stop pin. this means you just lift the boat, untie the stop-knot, and let the board 'over extend', etc. be sure to duplicate the length of the pendent and put a stop-knot in the same place on your new pendent. you never want to sail the boat with the centerboard 'over extended'. it will wobble and wiggle causing damage to the centerboard trunk and may work the pivot pin out ... which will result in you loosing the board. an 'over extended' board will also decrease the boat's performance. :: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 - SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com :: Sage Marine - reserve you Sage 17 today - www.sagemarine.com --- On Sun, 5/29/11, Mark House <itsmark@bresnan.net> wrote:
Tom:
I just went through the same thought process as you, but with an older cast iron CB M-17. I read everything I could find about how to take the CB out, as mine was in bad shape. Not sure but I think the fiberglass CB models fit like the older ones, but instead of 170 lb, you only have about 45 lb. to deal with. There's lots of good info on these sites:
http://msog.org/how-to/how-to.cfm
http://www.msogphotosite.com/M17MM.html
The photo site has info specifically about the fiberglass CB. Some folks have removed CBs by moving the boat back on the trailer, then jacking up the sterm. Others park over a ditch. Anyhow, I ended up finding a boat shop with a gantry crane to lift the boat. Expensive, but I was able to fix everything underneath that I thought needed attention, including a full inspection of the CB trunk. Good luck!
Mark House
----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Jenkins" <tjenk@gte.net>
Dave, If I understand your meaning, replacing the pendant either requires knocking the pin out and dropping the board to get at the tackle or shackle, or maybe the centerboard will pivot far enough so the fastening point is visible (hopefully the latter). Gosh, it would be great to have a book about M-boats, with scale diagrams of parts you can and can't see, and instructions on what to do for maintenance. A lot to ask, I guess, since manuals by billion-dollar corporations can be obscure and/or incomplete. Glad we have you and your knowledgeable kind to help us through the rough spots. Tom Jenkins Scintilla M-17
On May 28, 2011, at 9:13 PM, W David Scobie wrote:
tom:
for the M15s, and the non-cast-iron centerboard M17s replace the pendent about every 6ish years.
the pendent is a 5/16" line. the knot holding the line to the board must be small enough that you do not jam the pendant in the centerboard slot. to do this cut out just enough of the line's inner core and tie a compact figure-eight knot.
remember to tie a knot on the cockpit end of the pendant so it stops on the board overextending. the line should stop the centerboard from exiting the centerboard. note the length of the line from the end tied to the board and the 'stop knot' on the old pendant.
to replace the pendent you need to lift the boat from the trailer.
the centerboard is about 45 pounds.
:: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 - SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com :: Sage Marine - reserve your Sage 17 today - www.sagemarine.com
--- On Sat, 5/28/11, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
The other question has to do with the
centerboard
pendant. It is obviously a hefty line, but I don't know how it is fastened to the board, and I would not know how to fix it if it came loose. Everything seems to be enclosed by glass. I also wonder if the board would fold up on the trailer if one could not retract it. I would not like to swim upside down holding it in as the boat is going on. Thanks for any information you can provide. Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla, Hull 626.
Thanks for the great instructions, Dave. Now all I have to do is figure a way to raise the boat, since boondocks don't have lifts. Seems like someone wrote in two or three years ago describing how to jack up the boat with blocks on the little ridges fore and aft of the keel, but supporting 1100 lbs on each of these make me real nervous. If it can be done safely, I think the Pacific trailer might be moved far enough forward to clear the board. If not, I will have to travel a day each way to a boatyard; nothing new there--boats occasionally take time and money--but they are worth it, of course. Tom On May 30, 2011, at 5:54 AM, W David Scobie wrote:
the M15 and M17 began to share the same centerboard about 1990. the M15 centerboard is much smaller than the cast iron M17's.
you don't need to 'drop' the centerboard to change the pendent. you just need to 'over extend' the board to reach the attachment point. i don't believe the 'M15 centerboard M17's' have a stop pin. this means you just lift the boat, untie the stop-knot, and let the board 'over extend', etc.
be sure to duplicate the length of the pendent and put a stop-knot in the same place on your new pendent. you never want to sail the boat with the centerboard 'over extended'. it will wobble and wiggle causing damage to the centerboard trunk and may work the pivot pin out ... which will result in you loosing the board. an 'over extended' board will also decrease the boat's performance.
:: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 - SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com :: Sage Marine - reserve you Sage 17 today - www.sagemarine.com
--- On Sun, 5/29/11, Mark House <itsmark@bresnan.net> wrote:
Tom:
I just went through the same thought process as you, but with an older cast iron CB M-17. I read everything I could find about how to take the CB out, as mine was in bad shape. Not sure but I think the fiberglass CB models fit like the older ones, but instead of 170 lb, you only have about 45 lb. to deal with. There's lots of good info on these sites:
http://msog.org/how-to/how-to.cfm
http://www.msogphotosite.com/M17MM.html
The photo site has info specifically about the fiberglass CB. Some folks have removed CBs by moving the boat back on the trailer, then jacking up the sterm. Others park over a ditch. Anyhow, I ended up finding a boat shop with a gantry crane to lift the boat. Expensive, but I was able to fix everything underneath that I thought needed attention, including a full inspection of the CB trunk. Good luck!
Mark House
----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Jenkins" <tjenk@gte.net>
Dave, If I understand your meaning, replacing the pendant either requires knocking the pin out and dropping the board to get at the tackle or shackle, or maybe the centerboard will pivot far enough so the fastening point is visible (hopefully the latter). Gosh, it would be great to have a book about M-boats, with scale diagrams of parts you can and can't see, and instructions on what to do for maintenance. A lot to ask, I guess, since manuals by billion-dollar corporations can be obscure and/or incomplete. Glad we have you and your knowledgeable kind to help us through the rough spots. Tom Jenkins Scintilla M-17
On May 28, 2011, at 9:13 PM, W David Scobie wrote:
tom:
for the M15s, and the non-cast-iron centerboard M17s replace the pendent about every 6ish years.
the pendent is a 5/16" line. the knot holding the line to the board must be small enough that you do not jam the pendant in the centerboard slot. to do this cut out just enough of the line's inner core and tie a compact figure-eight knot.
remember to tie a knot on the cockpit end of the pendant so it stops on the board overextending. the line should stop the centerboard from exiting the centerboard. note the length of the line from the end tied to the board and the 'stop knot' on the old pendant.
to replace the pendent you need to lift the boat from the trailer.
the centerboard is about 45 pounds.
:: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 - SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com :: Sage Marine - reserve your Sage 17 today - www.sagemarine.com
--- On Sat, 5/28/11, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
The other question has to do with the
centerboard
pendant. It is obviously a hefty line, but I don't know how it is fastened to the board, and I would not know how to fix it if it came loose. Everything seems to be enclosed by glass. I also wonder if the board would fold up on the trailer if one could not retract it. I would not like to swim upside down holding it in as the boat is going on. Thanks for any information you can provide. Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla, Hull 626.
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participants (6)
-
Gary M Hyde -
Jim Ellsworth -
Mark House -
Tom Jenkins -
Tom Smith -
W David Scobie