Jimmy, Uh...I probably beveled out an area around the pivot pin about the size of a Thirstbuster lid (pretty technical measurement huh?)....Then I had a couple of circles of the bi-axial cloth, each one bigger than the next, and glassed them in. The bi-axial is thicker than the regular cloth so I beveled deep enough so that the cloth pretty much filled the bevel...then I used some thickened epoxy as filler to fair it out. I haven't had a problem since I did that, but I'm not saying there isn't a better way...that's just what I did out of frustration of the dang thing coming out. The year you and us and Matt and Howie sailed up the coat to Ventura, we stayed and extra day at Channel Islands and had a pretty romping sail in some good swell out to about the platform "Gina" then, after we were both laughing and pretty bruised up from banging into every corner and edge that the cockpit or cabin could find to attack us with, we turned around. When we put the boat on the trailer I almost dumped my shorts when I saw how far that pin had backed out! That would have been "interesting" to have a 300+ lb piece of quadrant shaped cast iron banging around under the boat swinging from the pennant....until the pennant broke! If you decide to go that route let me know. That cloth is expensive and I think I have some left over from my keel job I could send you. S
Is this his whole center pin discussion centered only on the heavy 300lb centerboards? Or does the potential for this problem exist for the newer M17's that have a much lighter 40 to 50lb centerboard? Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: Nebwest2@aol.com To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 1:21 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Centerboard Pin Problem Jimmy, Uh...I probably beveled out an area around the pivot pin about the size of a Thirstbuster lid (pretty technical measurement huh?)....Then I had a couple of circles of the bi-axial cloth, each one bigger than the next, and glassed them in. The bi-axial is thicker than the regular cloth so I beveled deep enough so that the cloth pretty much filled the bevel...then I used some thickened epoxy as filler to fair it out. I haven't had a problem since I did that, but I'm not saying there isn't a better way...that's just what I did out of frustration of the dang thing coming out. The year you and us and Matt and Howie sailed up the coat to Ventura, we stayed and extra day at Channel Islands and had a pretty romping sail in some good swell out to about the platform "Gina" then, after we were both laughing and pretty bruised up from banging into every corner and edge that the cockpit or cabin could find to attack us with, we turned around. When we put the boat on the trailer I almost dumped my shorts when I saw how far that pin had backed out! That would have been "interesting" to have a 300+ lb piece of quadrant shaped cast iron banging around under the boat swinging from the pennant....until the pennant broke! If you decide to go that route let me know. That cloth is expensive and I think I have some left over from my keel job I could send you. S _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
if larry went any faster CORNDOG would be skipping across the wave on the tip of her keel. ;-) to replace the bolts one needs to keep the centerboard stable in the trunk ... board up or down. this thing is HEAVY on the cast-iron models. i know i'll need to approach centerboard maintenance on SWEET PEA at the end of this upcoming season (want to make the centerboard 'inspection' and pendent line replacement an every-other-season project). my challenge is finding a way and location to lift her from the trailer to do the work. is the pivot bolt an issue on the 'lead' 17s? good question. i don't even know if the new 17s have a stop pin as a knotted pendent line is fine to control the board (just like on the 15s). significantly less weight and stress on the pin with the 50 pound board than 300! dave scobie M17 #375 - SWEET PEA visit SWEET PEA's www-site - http://www.m17-375.webs.com --- On Thu, 2/25/10, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote: Or, he would sail a knot faster without the turbulence at the projecting fasteners. I too would rather be a bit slower to avoid a centerboard hanging on the pendant. By the way, can the pivot pin be removed and replaced with the board up, or does it have to be down? Tom Jenkins --- On Thu, 2/25/10, Joe Murphy <seagray@embarqmail.com> wrote: Is this his whole center pin discussion centered only on the heavy 300lb centerboards? Or does the potential for this problem exist for the newer M17's that have a much lighter 40 to 50lb centerboard? Joe On Feb 25, 2010, at 9:52 AM, W David Scobie wrote:
the fastest M17 i know is larry yakes CORNDOG. if memory serves he uses the bolt, nut and washer system for both the centerboard pivit and stop pins. CORNDOG doesn't seem to show any less speed.
dave scobie M17 #375 - SWEET PEA visit SWEET PEA's www-site - http://www.m17-375.webs.com
Dave: My understanding is that it is important to use a properly placed stop knot on the M15 and the newer M17. Both have the same 45 lb centerboard as I understand it. ⎈--Gary ☺ On Feb 25, 2010, at 4:48 PM, W David Scobie wrote:
if larry went any faster CORNDOG would be skipping across the wave on the tip of her keel. ;-)
to replace the bolts one needs to keep the centerboard stable in the trunk ... board up or down. this thing is HEAVY on the cast-iron models.
i know i'll need to approach centerboard maintenance on SWEET PEA at the end of this upcoming season (want to make the centerboard 'inspection' and pendent line replacement an every-other-season project). my challenge is finding a way and location to lift her from the trailer to do the work.
is the pivot bolt an issue on the 'lead' 17s? good question. i don't even know if the new 17s have a stop pin as a knotted pendent line is fine to control the board (just like on the 15s). significantly less weight and stress on the pin with the 50 pound board than 300!
dave scobie M17 #375 - SWEET PEA visit SWEET PEA's www-site - http://www.m17-375.webs.com
--- On Thu, 2/25/10, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Or, he would sail a knot faster without the turbulence at the projecting fasteners. I too would rather be a bit slower to avoid a centerboard hanging on the pendant. By the way, can the pivot pin be removed and replaced with the board up, or does it have to be down?
Tom Jenkins
--- On Thu, 2/25/10, Joe Murphy <seagray@embarqmail.com> wrote:
Is this his whole center pin discussion centered only on the heavy 300lb centerboards? Or does the potential for this problem exist for the newer M17's that have a much lighter 40 to 50lb centerboard? Joe
On Feb 25, 2010, at 9:52 AM, W David Scobie wrote:
the fastest M17 i know is larry yakes CORNDOG. if memory serves he uses the bolt, nut and washer system for both the centerboard pivit and stop pins. CORNDOG doesn't seem to show any less speed.
dave scobie M17 #375 - SWEET PEA visit SWEET PEA's www-site - http://www.m17-375.webs.com
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Joe, My boat is a 2000 (Bob Eeg) boat. I think that would be the lighter centerboard, but someone correct me if I am incorrect. Jim -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Joe Murphy Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 1:25 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Centerboard Pin Problem Is this his whole center pin discussion centered only on the heavy 300lb centerboards? Or does the potential for this problem exist for the newer M17's that have a much lighter 40 to 50lb centerboard? Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: Nebwest2@aol.com To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 1:21 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Centerboard Pin Problem Jimmy, Uh...I probably beveled out an area around the pivot pin about the size of a Thirstbuster lid (pretty technical measurement huh?)....Then I had a couple of circles of the bi-axial cloth, each one bigger than the next, and glassed them in. The bi-axial is thicker than the regular cloth so I beveled deep enough so that the cloth pretty much filled the bevel...then I used some thickened epoxy as filler to fair it out. I haven't had a problem since I did that, but I'm not saying there isn't a better way...that's just what I did out of frustration of the dang thing coming out. The year you and us and Matt and Howie sailed up the coat to Ventura, we stayed and extra day at Channel Islands and had a pretty romping sail in some good swell out to about the platform "Gina" then, after we were both laughing and pretty bruised up from banging into every corner and edge that the cockpit or cabin could find to attack us with, we turned around. When we put the boat on the trailer I almost dumped my shorts when I saw how far that pin had backed out! That would have been "interesting" to have a 300+ lb piece of quadrant shaped cast iron banging around under the boat swinging from the pennant....until the pennant broke! If you decide to go that route let me know. That cloth is expensive and I think I have some left over from my keel job I could send you. S _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
participants (5)
-
Gary M Hyde -
Jim Ellsworth -
Joe Murphy -
Nebwest2＠aol.com -
W David Scobie