Either one is fine (not silicone) but polyurethane is much easier to clean up. Jerry jerrymontgomery.org ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gordon Gilbert" <gordon@financialwriting.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 10:24 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bow rail removal

Thanks for the advice, Jerry. I'll get right on that. For re-bedding would you use polyurethane instead of polysulfide?

Gordon On May 15, 2008, at 12:11 PM, jerry wrote:

...

You are right except that the caulking was polyurethane! The solution is to get a really sharp putty knife and gradually slip it in. Once it's opened up a little, gently drive in a sharp wood wedge and the stanchion will gradually release. Don't get in a hurry and work from one stanchion to another.

Jerry jerrymontgomery.org

----- Original Message ----- From: "Gordon Gilbert" <Gordon@FinancialWriting.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 9:13 AM Subject: M_Boats: Bow rail removal

...

I just removed, varnished and re-bedded all the brightwork on my M-17. Now I'd like to re-bed my bow rail, since I'm seeing gaps in the bedding compound -- but I can't it off. I've removed the bolts and banged the rail with a hammer and piece of wood, but the thing seems cemented in place. I'd hate to yank out chunks of deck with the pulpit.

I'm assuming that the rail was originally bedded with polysulfide caulk. Has anyone else had this trouble -- or have a good solution?

Thanks,

Gordon

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Sounds good. Thanks! On May 15, 2008, at 12:38 PM, Bob From California wrote:

Hi Gordon...

It appears your bow rail was bedded with 5200. A polyurethane adhesive.

That stuff is brutal and we only use it for Hull/Deck Joints on the Nor'Sea

and on underwater thru hulls...etc. We also have been busy re- building several

older Nor'Seas and we ran into the same problem. What we use (besides a good,

thin, wide and flexible putty knife) is a product called Debond 2000. It loosens

the bond and does not harm the Gelcoat. Here is the Link:

http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse.cfm/4,29255.htm

Use BOATLIFE CAULK when you rebed and don't forget to bed under the

bolts heads and use new stainless lock nuts.

Bob Eeg (949) 489-8227

Montgomeryboats.com

...

To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> From: Gordon@FinancialWriting.net> Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 11:13:16 -0500> Subject: M_Boats: Bow rail removal> > I just removed, varnished and re-bedded all the brightwork on my > M-17. Now I'd like to re-bed my bow rail, since I'm seeing gaps in > the bedding compound -- but I can't it off. I've removed the bolts > and banged the rail with a hammer and piece of wood, but the thing > seems cemented in place. I'd hate to yank out chunks of deck with the > pulpit.> > I'm assuming that the rail was originally bedded with polysulfide > caulk. Has anyone else had this trouble -- or have a good solution?> > Thanks,> > Gordon> > > _______________________________________________> http:// mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

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