Re: M_Boats: Dismasting due to old rigging
Not knowing any better, I assume that all fittings done correctly work well. However, in regard to swaged terminals, one might read Don Casey's (This Old Boat) opinion and his experience concerning swaged terminals. He cites several reasons for their failure. He recommends Cone terminals. He did not mention Nicopress firttings. I have only one swaged terminal (open turnbuckle) required for a CDI furler. Jerry M built the forestay for me and I have complete confidence in his workmanship. My 1975 M-17 came with Nicopress fittings. Although the boat has never been in salt water, at least since 1980 and I replaced some of the standing rigging a few years ago, all rigging and fittings were in excellent shape. I bisected the Nicopress fittings and wire rope, examined them with a 10X loupe and could detect no corrosion or other degradation whatever. Frankly, I replaced all fittings with Nicopress sleeves and thimbles because I did not know any better. Perhaps if I knew then about cone terminals, I would have used them, although they somewhat pricey and require some skill and care in attachment. Admitted, compared to swaged and cone fittings, Nicopress fittings are as ugly as a mud fence. But they are simple, completely visible, easy to install (with a good crimper) and work just fine--so far. I still have a lot to learn about sailboats. Bill K M-17 # 55 Half Monty
All, I have to confess at the outset that this is actually a question about my Cape Dory 10 but in my own defense it could apply to my M-15 and I expect a better answer here than on the CD forum (just my opinion). So the problem is that my 1964 CD 10 has some wood screws that hold the seat boards down and some of these have stripped causing problems. The teak that the screws go into is glassed into the hull and I really do not want to bust it out and try and replace it. Does anyone have ideas to "retapping" the existing holes (maybe with epoxy??) without going to larger diameter screws, which would not match the others and thereby somewhat spoil a very nice looking original interior. My fear about the epoxy is that the screws would not come out when I need to get to the flotation foam or hull under the seats. Suggestions will be most appreciated! Thanks in advance, Robbin
Robbin- coat the screws with a couple of coats of wax (needs carnuba), then either mix up some epoxy with a filler or get some epoxy putty, stuff it in the hole, then push the screws in the hole. You need to work out a way to hold the seat planks down in place while the epoxy goes off because you can remove the screws later but you can't tighten them. Ssomeone else mentioned gl;uing in dowels; that will work too but is more work. Have fun. Jerry jerrymontgomery.org ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robbin Roddewig" <robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, August 05, 2006 9:07 AM Subject: M_Boats: Stripped wood screw holes
All, I have to confess at the outset that this is actually a question about my Cape Dory 10 but in my own defense it could apply to my M-15 and I expect a better answer here than on the CD forum (just my opinion). So the problem is that my 1964 CD 10 has some wood screws that hold the seat boards down and some of these have stripped causing problems. The teak that the screws go into is glassed into the hull and I really do not want to bust it out and try and replace it. Does anyone have ideas to "retapping" the existing holes (maybe with epoxy??) without going to larger diameter screws, which would not match the others and thereby somewhat spoil a very nice looking original interior. My fear about the epoxy is that the screws would not come out when I need to get to the flotation foam or hull under the seats. Suggestions will be most appreciated!
Thanks in advance, Robbin
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participants (3)
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jerry -
Robbin Roddewig -
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