Yesterday I tried rowing my boat. It didn't move as easily as I expected, but the water was rough and windy, On calm water I expect she would row much better. I built a pair of 9' 5" oars from lumber yard KD spruce. Oarlock sockets are mounted on the top of a hand made wooden horn cleat which is mounted on the coaming top. My rationale for this solution is as follows. My boat had clam cleats mounted on the coaming top which I could not figure out for what they were used. I decided to try to build a horn cleat out of locust so I could tie off a line led from either foreword or aft. The position of the cleat seemed right for a oarlock and I wanted to use the holes that were already there. (I only managed to use one hole) Mounting the oarlock socket on top of the cleat was also based on not wanting to put more holes in the boat. The sockets I used required two #10 holes and one 3/4" hole. If mounted on top of the cleat, no additional holes. I did enlarge the #10 holes to 1/4". Because the coaming top is about 2 feet off the water, even with long oars, the oar handles are a bit high when the tips are in the water. I think I can get use to it and the height does make rowing while standing a bit easier. This is a good example of "all boats are a compromise". A sailboat is not going to row like a rowboat, but then no rowboat is going to sail like my M15. If anyone is interested in seeing this setup, let me know and I'll send you some pictures. Rick Langer M15 "Sialia" #337