Montypals: Just got back last week from the Small Craft Skills Academy in Port Townsend. Fantastic experience. Anyway, based on that I have a bunch of things to think about. One of them is how to handle my anchor tackle. Presently I have a small danforth with about 6 feet of chain, and then about 80 feet of rode. I have put marks on the rode now to measure out how much is being payed out as I anchor. I would like to stow the thing in the port lazarette which on my boat is wide open to the bilge. How are you guys doing this? Bag? Plastic container? I know that the line needs to be carefully flaked into the container so that it runs free when paying out the line. Thoughts here? Daniel Rich M15 #208 "Kestrel" danielgrich@gmail.com
Plastic bucket with 15 ft chain One foot for length of boat. Light weight chain is good. Chain is needed to lay on bottom and keep rode from wearing on bottom. Heavy chain if anchor in heavy windy areas and rocky bottom Depends lots on where you anchor and style of anchor and weight of anchor. Sleep well If done right Lots of factors to consider San Juan Island Area Lots of time on the hook Sent from my iPhone On Sep 13, 2012, at 8:06 PM, Daniel Rich <danielgrich@gmail.com> wrote:
Montypals:
Just got back last week from the Small Craft Skills Academy in Port Townsend. Fantastic experience. Anyway, based on that I have a bunch of things to think about. One of them is how to handle my anchor tackle. Presently I have a small danforth with about 6 feet of chain, and then about 80 feet of rode. I have put marks on the rode now to measure out how much is being payed out as I anchor. I would like to stow the thing in the port lazarette which on my boat is wide open to the bilge. How are you guys doing this? Bag? Plastic container? I know that the line needs to be carefully flaked into the container so that it runs free when paying out the line. Thoughts here?
Daniel Rich M15 #208 "Kestrel" danielgrich@gmail.com
Daniel, The Small Craft Skills Academy sounds like it was well put together. We anchor a lot. Nothing nicer than overnighting at anchor, the hull strakes chuckling at you. As you may know we just did a 2 week trip in August and anchored 13 of 14 nights. The one night at a slip was the last night before hauling out to head home. Primary anchor is a 5kg (11lb) Simpson Lawrence claw on 10 feet of chain. 2nd is a Fortress FX7 with 10 feet of chain, 3rd is a small folding grapnel (mostly used for a shore line or rock hook). Rode is 100' of 1/2". Have both 3 strand and braid for this. All have an eye splice with a galvanized thimble shackled to the chain. Chain length is compromise of useful length and size vs weight in the boat and where you are going to store it. Our chain could be longer in an ideal world, but I sleep well with it as is. Chain works to keep the pull on the anchor horizontal, and in gusts or waves, acts as a schock absorber in the system, lifting slightly off the bottom. As also mentioned it saves some abrasion on the rope section. Rope will lie on the bottom however and eventually chafes a bit at a time. We keep 100' of line, chain, and the SL Claw in a flexible laundry tote basket with handles. It goes down through the port cockpit hatch okay, and sits on interlocked rubber cockpit tiles that I have lining that locker. When cruising and using it daily, we don't stow it below, just at the forward end of the cockpit, and have put it on the cabin sole as well. We anchor from the cockpit, port quarter. A couple of the cockpit tiles flapped over the coaming and toe rail allow me to place the anchor over the side and run the chain out through my hands, while protecting the gel coat and wood. Make sure the boat is moving, (aft is good) so the chain lays down in a line Once the chain is down, one of us walks the rope road forward, paying it out from the basket and lays it in the bow chock we have installed. From there, we pay out whatever length is required and cleat it on the foredeck cleat. The bitter end of the rode has already been fastened to the stern cleat. I am going to remove the 1 center cleat on the foredeck and install 2 larger cleats, one on each side closer to the toe rail. The single cleat has got crowded some times. Some stainless wire, or narrow zipties through the eye of the shackle pin and around one leg of the shackle secure the pin from backing out. Watch you don't catch your hands if wired. I just switched the line on the claw. It has been in use for 7 years and I don't like the look of the thimble and the eye splice. Have cut off the first 20' where the braid has got a bit fuzzy and chafed from the bottom. Oh yeah, think about how and where you will move, during the night, if you have too. Do you have things clear in the cockpit, a light handy if required?. Motor ready to start? Do you know where to move to? We did 2 times on our last trip. Once just across the bay to be in more of a lee, once around a point. Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622 On Thu, Sep 13, 2012 at 11:06 PM, Daniel Rich <danielgrich@gmail.com> wrote:
Montypals:
Just got back last week from the Small Craft Skills Academy in Port Townsend. Fantastic experience. Anyway, based on that I have a bunch of things to think about. One of them is how to handle my anchor tackle. Presently I have a small danforth with about 6 feet of chain, and then about 80 feet of rode. I have put marks on the rode now to measure out how much is being payed out as I anchor. I would like to stow the thing in the port lazarette which on my boat is wide open to the bilge. How are you guys doing this? Bag? Plastic container? I know that the line needs to be carefully flaked into the container so that it runs free when paying out the line. Thoughts here?
Daniel Rich M15 #208 "Kestrel" danielgrich@gmail.com
Bill provides a great description on how to anchor. I'll only add - * i carry two anchors: 'claw' type and a danforth * each anchor on 200' of rode and 10' of chain * i carry a third rode of 200' (why so much rode ... Puget Sound anchorages can run deep, especially during high tide range periods) i have lined my cockpit locker with 'dri-dek' panels. this protects the hull from the anchor (more an issue when trailering the boat) and improves air flow. each set of ground tackle has a 'anchor &rode bag' (made/marketed by west marine). one thing to consider - are there limber holes cut into your Mboat's bulkheads under the cockpit? if not consider cutting the holes (be sure to expoxy/seal the wood) so any water coming into the 'anchor locker' drains in to the bilge. :: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com --- On Fri, 9/14/12, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
Daniel,
The Small Craft Skills Academy sounds like it was well put together.
We anchor a lot. Nothing nicer than overnighting at anchor, the hull strakes chuckling at you. As you may know we just did a 2 week trip in August and anchored 13 of 14 nights. The one night at a slip was the last night before hauling out to head home.
Primary anchor is a 5kg (11lb) Simpson Lawrence claw on 10 feet of chain. 2nd is a Fortress FX7 with 10 feet of chain, 3rd is a small folding grapnel (mostly used for a shore line or rock hook). Rode is 100' of 1/2". Have both 3 strand and braid for this. All have an eye splice with a galvanized thimble shackled to the chain.
Chain length is compromise of useful length and size vs weight in the boat and where you are going to store it. Our chain could be longer in an ideal world, but I sleep well with it as is.
Chain works to keep the pull on the anchor horizontal, and in gusts or waves, acts as a schock absorber in the system, lifting slightly off the bottom. As also mentioned it saves some abrasion on the rope section. Rope will lie on the bottom however and eventually chafes a bit at a time.
We keep 100' of line, chain, and the SL Claw in a flexible laundry tote basket with handles. It goes down through the port cockpit hatch okay, and sits on interlocked rubber cockpit tiles that I have lining that locker. When cruising and using it daily, we don't stow it below, just at the forward end of the cockpit, and have put it on the cabin sole as well.
We anchor from the cockpit, port quarter. A couple of the cockpit tiles flapped over the coaming and toe rail allow me to place the anchor over the side and run the chain out through my hands, while protecting the gel coat and wood. Make sure the boat is moving, (aft is good) so the chain lays down in a line
Once the chain is down, one of us walks the rope road forward, paying it out from the basket and lays it in the bow chock we have installed. From there, we pay out whatever length is required and cleat it on the foredeck cleat. The bitter end of the rode has already been fastened to the stern cleat. I am going to remove the 1 center cleat on the foredeck and install 2 larger cleats, one on each side closer to the toe rail. The single cleat has got crowded some times.
Some stainless wire, or narrow zipties through the eye of the shackle pin and around one leg of the shackle secure the pin from backing out. Watch you don't catch your hands if wired.
I just switched the line on the claw. It has been in use for 7 years and I don't like the look of the thimble and the eye splice. Have cut off the first 20' where the braid has got a bit fuzzy and chafed from the bottom.
Oh yeah, think about how and where you will move, during the night, if you have too. Do you have things clear in the cockpit, a light handy if required?. Motor ready to start? Do you know where to move to? We did 2 times on our last trip. Once just across the bay to be in more of a lee, once around a point.
Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622
On Thu, Sep 13, 2012 at 11:06 PM, Daniel Rich <danielgrich@gmail.com> wrote:
Montypals:
Just got back last week from the Small Craft Skills Academy in Port Townsend. Fantastic experience. Anyway, based on that I have a bunch of things to think about. One of them is how to handle my anchor tackle. Presently I have a small danforth with about 6 feet of chain, and then about 80 feet of rode. I have put marks on the rode now to measure out how much is being payed out as I anchor. I would like to stow the thing in the port lazarette which on my boat is wide open to the bilge. How are you guys doing this? Bag? Plastic container? I know that the line needs to be carefully flaked into the container so that it runs free when paying out the line. Thoughts here?
Daniel Rich M15 #208 "Kestrel" danielgrich@gmail.com
Wow, I thought I carried a lot of line. (3 x 100 rode plus extra assorted shore lines) On Fri, Sep 14, 2012 at 10:33 AM, W David Scobie <wdscobie@yahoo.com> wrote:
Bill provides a great description on how to anchor.
I'll only add -
* i carry two anchors: 'claw' type and a danforth * each anchor on 200' of rode and 10' of chain * i carry a third rode of 200'
(why so much rode ... Puget Sound anchorages can run deep, especially during high tide range periods)
i have lined my cockpit locker with 'dri-dek' panels. this protects the hull from the anchor (more an issue when trailering the boat) and improves air flow.
each set of ground tackle has a 'anchor &rode bag' (made/marketed by west marine).
one thing to consider - are there limber holes cut into your Mboat's bulkheads under the cockpit? if not consider cutting the holes (be sure to expoxy/seal the wood) so any water coming into the 'anchor locker' drains in to the bilge.
:: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
--- On Fri, 9/14/12, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
Daniel,
The Small Craft Skills Academy sounds like it was well put together.
We anchor a lot. Nothing nicer than overnighting at anchor, the hull strakes chuckling at you. As you may know we just did a 2 week trip in August and anchored 13 of 14 nights. The one night at a slip was the last night before hauling out to head home.
Primary anchor is a 5kg (11lb) Simpson Lawrence claw on 10 feet of chain. 2nd is a Fortress FX7 with 10 feet of chain, 3rd is a small folding grapnel (mostly used for a shore line or rock hook). Rode is 100' of 1/2". Have both 3 strand and braid for this. All have an eye splice with a galvanized thimble shackled to the chain.
Chain length is compromise of useful length and size vs weight in the boat and where you are going to store it. Our chain could be longer in an ideal world, but I sleep well with it as is.
Chain works to keep the pull on the anchor horizontal, and in gusts or waves, acts as a schock absorber in the system, lifting slightly off the bottom. As also mentioned it saves some abrasion on the rope section. Rope will lie on the bottom however and eventually chafes a bit at a time.
We keep 100' of line, chain, and the SL Claw in a flexible laundry tote basket with handles. It goes down through the port cockpit hatch okay, and sits on interlocked rubber cockpit tiles that I have lining that locker. When cruising and using it daily, we don't stow it below, just at the forward end of the cockpit, and have put it on the cabin sole as well.
We anchor from the cockpit, port quarter. A couple of the cockpit tiles flapped over the coaming and toe rail allow me to place the anchor over the side and run the chain out through my hands, while protecting the gel coat and wood. Make sure the boat is moving, (aft is good) so the chain lays down in a line
Once the chain is down, one of us walks the rope road forward, paying it out from the basket and lays it in the bow chock we have installed. From there, we pay out whatever length is required and cleat it on the foredeck cleat. The bitter end of the rode has already been fastened to the stern cleat. I am going to remove the 1 center cleat on the foredeck and install 2 larger cleats, one on each side closer to the toe rail. The single cleat has got crowded some times.
Some stainless wire, or narrow zipties through the eye of the shackle pin and around one leg of the shackle secure the pin from backing out. Watch you don't catch your hands if wired.
I just switched the line on the claw. It has been in use for 7 years and I don't like the look of the thimble and the eye splice. Have cut off the first 20' where the braid has got a bit fuzzy and chafed from the bottom.
Oh yeah, think about how and where you will move, during the night, if you have too. Do you have things clear in the cockpit, a light handy if required?. Motor ready to start? Do you know where to move to? We did 2 times on our last trip. Once just across the bay to be in more of a lee, once around a point.
Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622
On Thu, Sep 13, 2012 at 11:06 PM, Daniel Rich <danielgrich@gmail.com> wrote:
Montypals:
Just got back last week from the Small Craft Skills Academy in Port Townsend. Fantastic experience. Anyway, based on that I have a bunch of things to think about. One of them is how to handle my anchor tackle. Presently I have a small danforth with about 6 feet of chain, and then about 80 feet of rode. I have put marks on the rode now to measure out how much is being payed out as I anchor. I would like to stow the thing in the port lazarette which on my boat is wide open to the bilge. How are you guys doing this? Bag? Plastic container? I know that the line needs to be carefully flaked into the container so that it runs free when paying out the line. Thoughts here?
Daniel Rich M15 #208 "Kestrel" danielgrich@gmail.com
Here is a new listing for a M17 found on craigslist http://gulfport.craigslist.org/boa/3269424542.html Sent via Becky's BlackBerry -----Original Message----- From: Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> Sender: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2012 10:43:43 To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats<montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Reply-To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Anchoring tackle Wow, I thought I carried a lot of line. (3 x 100 rode plus extra assorted shore lines) On Fri, Sep 14, 2012 at 10:33 AM, W David Scobie <wdscobie@yahoo.com> wrote:
Bill provides a great description on how to anchor.
I'll only add -
* i carry two anchors: 'claw' type and a danforth * each anchor on 200' of rode and 10' of chain * i carry a third rode of 200'
(why so much rode ... Puget Sound anchorages can run deep, especially during high tide range periods)
i have lined my cockpit locker with 'dri-dek' panels. this protects the hull from the anchor (more an issue when trailering the boat) and improves air flow.
each set of ground tackle has a 'anchor &rode bag' (made/marketed by west marine).
one thing to consider - are there limber holes cut into your Mboat's bulkheads under the cockpit? if not consider cutting the holes (be sure to expoxy/seal the wood) so any water coming into the 'anchor locker' drains in to the bilge.
:: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
--- On Fri, 9/14/12, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
Daniel,
The Small Craft Skills Academy sounds like it was well put together.
We anchor a lot. Nothing nicer than overnighting at anchor, the hull strakes chuckling at you. As you may know we just did a 2 week trip in August and anchored 13 of 14 nights. The one night at a slip was the last night before hauling out to head home.
Primary anchor is a 5kg (11lb) Simpson Lawrence claw on 10 feet of chain. 2nd is a Fortress FX7 with 10 feet of chain, 3rd is a small folding grapnel (mostly used for a shore line or rock hook). Rode is 100' of 1/2". Have both 3 strand and braid for this. All have an eye splice with a galvanized thimble shackled to the chain.
Chain length is compromise of useful length and size vs weight in the boat and where you are going to store it. Our chain could be longer in an ideal world, but I sleep well with it as is.
Chain works to keep the pull on the anchor horizontal, and in gusts or waves, acts as a schock absorber in the system, lifting slightly off the bottom. As also mentioned it saves some abrasion on the rope section. Rope will lie on the bottom however and eventually chafes a bit at a time.
We keep 100' of line, chain, and the SL Claw in a flexible laundry tote basket with handles. It goes down through the port cockpit hatch okay, and sits on interlocked rubber cockpit tiles that I have lining that locker. When cruising and using it daily, we don't stow it below, just at the forward end of the cockpit, and have put it on the cabin sole as well.
We anchor from the cockpit, port quarter. A couple of the cockpit tiles flapped over the coaming and toe rail allow me to place the anchor over the side and run the chain out through my hands, while protecting the gel coat and wood. Make sure the boat is moving, (aft is good) so the chain lays down in a line
Once the chain is down, one of us walks the rope road forward, paying it out from the basket and lays it in the bow chock we have installed. From there, we pay out whatever length is required and cleat it on the foredeck cleat. The bitter end of the rode has already been fastened to the stern cleat. I am going to remove the 1 center cleat on the foredeck and install 2 larger cleats, one on each side closer to the toe rail. The single cleat has got crowded some times.
Some stainless wire, or narrow zipties through the eye of the shackle pin and around one leg of the shackle secure the pin from backing out. Watch you don't catch your hands if wired.
I just switched the line on the claw. It has been in use for 7 years and I don't like the look of the thimble and the eye splice. Have cut off the first 20' where the braid has got a bit fuzzy and chafed from the bottom.
Oh yeah, think about how and where you will move, during the night, if you have too. Do you have things clear in the cockpit, a light handy if required?. Motor ready to start? Do you know where to move to? We did 2 times on our last trip. Once just across the bay to be in more of a lee, once around a point.
Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622
On Thu, Sep 13, 2012 at 11:06 PM, Daniel Rich <danielgrich@gmail.com> wrote:
Montypals:
Just got back last week from the Small Craft Skills Academy in Port Townsend. Fantastic experience. Anyway, based on that I have a bunch of things to think about. One of them is how to handle my anchor tackle. Presently I have a small danforth with about 6 feet of chain, and then about 80 feet of rode. I have put marks on the rode now to measure out how much is being payed out as I anchor. I would like to stow the thing in the port lazarette which on my boat is wide open to the bilge. How are you guys doing this? Bag? Plastic container? I know that the line needs to be carefully flaked into the container so that it runs free when paying out the line. Thoughts here?
Daniel Rich M15 #208 "Kestrel" danielgrich@gmail.com
Interesting. It looks like water could easily go to the bilge in my boat. Do you mark your rode in some manor to know how much you are paying out? I know about Puget Sound having just been up there. Very deep anchorages. Daniel On 9/14/2012 7:33 AM, W David Scobie wrote:
Bill provides a great description on how to anchor.
I'll only add -
* i carry two anchors: 'claw' type and a danforth * each anchor on 200' of rode and 10' of chain * i carry a third rode of 200'
(why so much rode ... Puget Sound anchorages can run deep, especially during high tide range periods)
i have lined my cockpit locker with 'dri-dek' panels. this protects the hull from the anchor (more an issue when trailering the boat) and improves air flow.
each set of ground tackle has a 'anchor &rode bag' (made/marketed by west marine).
one thing to consider - are there limber holes cut into your Mboat's bulkheads under the cockpit? if not consider cutting the holes (be sure to expoxy/seal the wood) so any water coming into the 'anchor locker' drains in to the bilge.
:: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
--- On Fri, 9/14/12, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
Daniel,
The Small Craft Skills Academy sounds like it was well put together.
We anchor a lot. Nothing nicer than overnighting at anchor, the hull strakes chuckling at you. As you may know we just did a 2 week trip in August and anchored 13 of 14 nights. The one night at a slip was the last night before hauling out to head home.
Primary anchor is a 5kg (11lb) Simpson Lawrence claw on 10 feet of chain. 2nd is a Fortress FX7 with 10 feet of chain, 3rd is a small folding grapnel (mostly used for a shore line or rock hook). Rode is 100' of 1/2". Have both 3 strand and braid for this. All have an eye splice with a galvanized thimble shackled to the chain.
Chain length is compromise of useful length and size vs weight in the boat and where you are going to store it. Our chain could be longer in an ideal world, but I sleep well with it as is.
Chain works to keep the pull on the anchor horizontal, and in gusts or waves, acts as a schock absorber in the system, lifting slightly off the bottom. As also mentioned it saves some abrasion on the rope section. Rope will lie on the bottom however and eventually chafes a bit at a time.
We keep 100' of line, chain, and the SL Claw in a flexible laundry tote basket with handles. It goes down through the port cockpit hatch okay, and sits on interlocked rubber cockpit tiles that I have lining that locker. When cruising and using it daily, we don't stow it below, just at the forward end of the cockpit, and have put it on the cabin sole as well.
We anchor from the cockpit, port quarter. A couple of the cockpit tiles flapped over the coaming and toe rail allow me to place the anchor over the side and run the chain out through my hands, while protecting the gel coat and wood. Make sure the boat is moving, (aft is good) so the chain lays down in a line
Once the chain is down, one of us walks the rope road forward, paying it out from the basket and lays it in the bow chock we have installed. From there, we pay out whatever length is required and cleat it on the foredeck cleat. The bitter end of the rode has already been fastened to the stern cleat. I am going to remove the 1 center cleat on the foredeck and install 2 larger cleats, one on each side closer to the toe rail. The single cleat has got crowded some times.
Some stainless wire, or narrow zipties through the eye of the shackle pin and around one leg of the shackle secure the pin from backing out. Watch you don't catch your hands if wired.
I just switched the line on the claw. It has been in use for 7 years and I don't like the look of the thimble and the eye splice. Have cut off the first 20' where the braid has got a bit fuzzy and chafed from the bottom.
Oh yeah, think about how and where you will move, during the night, if you have too. Do you have things clear in the cockpit, a light handy if required?. Motor ready to start? Do you know where to move to? We did 2 times on our last trip. Once just across the bay to be in more of a lee, once around a point.
Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622
On Thu, Sep 13, 2012 at 11:06 PM, Daniel Rich <danielgrich@gmail.com> wrote:
Montypals:
Just got back last week from the Small Craft Skills Academy in Port Townsend. Fantastic experience. Anyway, based on that I have a bunch of things to think about. One of them is how to handle my anchor tackle. Presently I have a small danforth with about 6 feet of chain, and then about 80 feet of rode. I have put marks on the rode now to measure out how much is being payed out as I anchor. I would like to stow the thing in the port lazarette which on my boat is wide open to the bilge. How are you guys doing this? Bag? Plastic container? I know that the line needs to be carefully flaked into the container so that it runs free when paying out the line. Thoughts here?
Daniel Rich M15 #208 "Kestrel" danielgrich@gmail.com
i just make an 'educated guess' for the length of rode. in general the 'guess' is most of the 200': 10' tide change with a low tide depth 20 feet means for a 7:1 i should have 210' of rode. :: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com --- On Fri, 9/14/12, Daniel Rich <danielgrich@gmail.com> wrote:
Interesting. It looks like water could easily go to the bilge in my boat.
Do you mark your rode in some manor to know how much you are paying out? I know about Puget Sound having just been up there. Very deep anchorages.
Daniel
On 9/14/2012 7:33 AM, W David Scobie wrote:
Bill provides a great description on how to anchor.
I'll only add -
* i carry two anchors: 'claw' type and a danforth * each anchor on 200' of rode and 10' of chain * i carry a third rode of 200'
(why so much rode ... Puget Sound anchorages can run deep, especially during high tide range periods)
i have lined my cockpit locker with 'dri-dek' panels. this protects the hull from the anchor (more an issue when trailering the boat) and improves air flow.
each set of ground tackle has a 'anchor &rode bag' (made/marketed by west marine).
one thing to consider - are there limber holes cut into your Mboat's bulkheads under the cockpit? if not consider cutting the holes (be sure to expoxy/seal the wood) so any water coming into the 'anchor locker' drains in to the bilge.
:: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
I put marks at 35' 50' and 70'. All the water around here is around 4-7' deep. My first snub is at the 35' mark. That is usually deep enough to get a first grab. Then I check the depth with my lead and go from there. If you don't mark your lines you can get a good estimate by simply pulling out your rode in wing span lengths (arms extended laterally) Just holding a line in each hand gives you appoximately 5'. This is also the length of each coil when I coil a line. One quick look at the number of coils tells me how long a line I have. All my dock lines are marked at the bitter end anyway. But when it's dark... Joe SeaFrog M17 ----- Original Message ----- From: W David Scobie To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Friday, September 14, 2012 1:47 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Anchoring tackle i just make an 'educated guess' for the length of rode. in general the 'guess' is most of the 200': 10' tide change with a low tide depth 20 feet means for a 7:1 i should have 210' of rode. :: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com --- On Fri, 9/14/12, Daniel Rich <danielgrich@gmail.com> wrote:
Interesting. It looks like water could easily go to the bilge in my boat.
Do you mark your rode in some manor to know how much you are paying out? I know about Puget Sound having just been up there. Very deep anchorages.
Daniel
On 9/14/2012 7:33 AM, W David Scobie wrote:
Bill provides a great description on how to anchor.
I'll only add -
* i carry two anchors: 'claw' type and a danforth * each anchor on 200' of rode and 10' of chain * i carry a third rode of 200'
(why so much rode ... Puget Sound anchorages can run deep, especially during high tide range periods)
i have lined my cockpit locker with 'dri-dek' panels. this protects the hull from the anchor (more an issue when trailering the boat) and improves air flow.
each set of ground tackle has a 'anchor &rode bag' (made/marketed by west marine).
one thing to consider - are there limber holes cut into your Mboat's bulkheads under the cockpit? if not consider cutting the holes (be sure to expoxy/seal the wood) so any water coming into the 'anchor locker' drains in to the bilge.
:: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
On 14-Sep-12 11:58 AM, Daniel Rich wrote: Hi Daniel, Always mark your rode, otherwise how do you know how much rode you have in the water? If you are anchoring in 10 feet depth, you need 100 feet of rode (and more if it low tide and you have a 6 foot tidal range). Basically you want a 10:1 ratio of rode length to water depth. Without rode marking, you are clueless. Just take small strips of nylon ripstop material and put them between the strands of a 3 strand rode. A marker every 25 feet would be sufficient. Change the marker material type for the next 100 feet of rode so that you can identify it by "feel" at night. Connie
Interesting. It looks like water could easily go to the bilge in my boat.
Do you mark your rode in some manor to know how much you are paying out? I know about Puget Sound having just been up there. Very deep anchorages.
Daniel On 9/14/2012 7:33 AM, W David Scobie wrote:
Bill provides a great description on how to anchor.
I'll only add -
* i carry two anchors: 'claw' type and a danforth * each anchor on 200' of rode and 10' of chain * i carry a third rode of 200'
(why so much rode ... Puget Sound anchorages can run deep, especially during high tide range periods)
i have lined my cockpit locker with 'dri-dek' panels. this protects the hull from the anchor (more an issue when trailering the boat) and improves air flow.
each set of ground tackle has a 'anchor &rode bag' (made/marketed by west marine).
one thing to consider - are there limber holes cut into your Mboat's bulkheads under the cockpit? if not consider cutting the holes (be sure to expoxy/seal the wood) so any water coming into the 'anchor locker' drains in to the bilge.
:: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
--- On Fri, 9/14/12, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
Daniel,
The Small Craft Skills Academy sounds like it was well put together.
We anchor a lot. Nothing nicer than overnighting at anchor, the hull strakes chuckling at you. As you may know we just did a 2 week trip in August and anchored 13 of 14 nights. The one night at a slip was the last night before hauling out to head home.
Primary anchor is a 5kg (11lb) Simpson Lawrence claw on 10 feet of chain. 2nd is a Fortress FX7 with 10 feet of chain, 3rd is a small folding grapnel (mostly used for a shore line or rock hook). Rode is 100' of 1/2". Have both 3 strand and braid for this. All have an eye splice with a galvanized thimble shackled to the chain.
Chain length is compromise of useful length and size vs weight in the boat and where you are going to store it. Our chain could be longer in an ideal world, but I sleep well with it as is.
Chain works to keep the pull on the anchor horizontal, and in gusts or waves, acts as a schock absorber in the system, lifting slightly off the bottom. As also mentioned it saves some abrasion on the rope section. Rope will lie on the bottom however and eventually chafes a bit at a time.
We keep 100' of line, chain, and the SL Claw in a flexible laundry tote basket with handles. It goes down through the port cockpit hatch okay, and sits on interlocked rubber cockpit tiles that I have lining that locker. When cruising and using it daily, we don't stow it below, just at the forward end of the cockpit, and have put it on the cabin sole as well.
We anchor from the cockpit, port quarter. A couple of the cockpit tiles flapped over the coaming and toe rail allow me to place the anchor over the side and run the chain out through my hands, while protecting the gel coat and wood. Make sure the boat is moving, (aft is good) so the chain lays down in a line
Once the chain is down, one of us walks the rope road forward, paying it out from the basket and lays it in the bow chock we have installed. From there, we pay out whatever length is required and cleat it on the foredeck cleat. The bitter end of the rode has already been fastened to the stern cleat. I am going to remove the 1 center cleat on the foredeck and install 2 larger cleats, one on each side closer to the toe rail. The single cleat has got crowded some times.
Some stainless wire, or narrow zipties through the eye of the shackle pin and around one leg of the shackle secure the pin from backing out. Watch you don't catch your hands if wired.
I just switched the line on the claw. It has been in use for 7 years and I don't like the look of the thimble and the eye splice. Have cut off the first 20' where the braid has got a bit fuzzy and chafed from the bottom.
Oh yeah, think about how and where you will move, during the night, if you have too. Do you have things clear in the cockpit, a light handy if required?. Motor ready to start? Do you know where to move to? We did 2 times on our last trip. Once just across the bay to be in more of a lee, once around a point.
Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622
On Thu, Sep 13, 2012 at 11:06 PM, Daniel Rich <danielgrich@gmail.com> wrote:
Montypals:
Just got back last week from the Small Craft Skills Academy in Port Townsend. Fantastic experience. Anyway, based on that I have a bunch of things to think about. One of them is how to handle my anchor tackle. Presently I have a small danforth with about 6 feet of chain, and then about 80 feet of rode. I have put marks on the rode now to measure out how much is being payed out as I anchor. I would like to stow the thing in the port lazarette which on my boat is wide open to the bilge. How are you guys doing this? Bag? Plastic container? I know that the line needs to be carefully flaked into the container so that it runs free when paying out the line. Thoughts here?
Daniel Rich M15 #208 "Kestrel" danielgrich@gmail.com
On Fri, Sep 14, 2012 at 2:08 PM, Conbert Benneck <chbenneck@sbcglobal.net>wrote:
On 14-Sep-12 11:58 AM, Daniel Rich wrote:
Hi Daniel,
Always mark your rode, otherwise how do you know how much rode you have in the water? If you are anchoring in 10 feet depth, you need 100 feet of rode (and more if it low tide and you have a 6 foot tidal range).
Basically you want a 10:1 ratio of rode length to water depth. Without rode marking, you are clueless.
Just take small strips of nylon ripstop material and put them between the strands of a 3 strand rode. A marker every 25 feet would be sufficient. Change the marker material type for the next 100 feet of rode so that you can identify it by "feel" at night.
Connie
Ah, the wisdom of experience. :)
Interesting. It looks like water could easily go to the bilge in my boat.
Do you mark your rode in some manor to know how much you are paying out? I know about Puget Sound having just been up there. Very deep anchorages.
Daniel On 9/14/2012 7:33 AM, W David Scobie wrote:
Bill provides a great description on how to anchor.
I'll only add -
* i carry two anchors: 'claw' type and a danforth * each anchor on 200' of rode and 10' of chain * i carry a third rode of 200'
(why so much rode ... Puget Sound anchorages can run deep, especially during high tide range periods)
i have lined my cockpit locker with 'dri-dek' panels. this protects the hull from the anchor (more an issue when trailering the boat) and improves air flow.
each set of ground tackle has a 'anchor &rode bag' (made/marketed by west marine).
one thing to consider - are there limber holes cut into your Mboat's bulkheads under the cockpit? if not consider cutting the holes (be sure to expoxy/seal the wood) so any water coming into the 'anchor locker' drains in to the bilge.
:: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
--- On Fri, 9/14/12, Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> wrote:
Daniel,
The Small Craft Skills Academy sounds like it was well put together.
We anchor a lot. Nothing nicer than overnighting at anchor, the hull strakes chuckling at you. As you may know we just did a 2 week trip in August and anchored 13 of 14 nights. The one night at a slip was the last night before hauling out to head home.
Primary anchor is a 5kg (11lb) Simpson Lawrence claw on 10 feet of chain. 2nd is a Fortress FX7 with 10 feet of chain, 3rd is a small folding grapnel (mostly used for a shore line or rock hook). Rode is 100' of 1/2". Have both 3 strand and braid for this. All have an eye splice with a galvanized thimble shackled to the chain.
Chain length is compromise of useful length and size vs weight in the boat and where you are going to store it. Our chain could be longer in an ideal world, but I sleep well with it as is.
Chain works to keep the pull on the anchor horizontal, and in gusts or waves, acts as a schock absorber in the system, lifting slightly off the bottom. As also mentioned it saves some abrasion on the rope section. Rope will lie on the bottom however and eventually chafes a bit at a time.
We keep 100' of line, chain, and the SL Claw in a flexible laundry tote basket with handles. It goes down through the port cockpit hatch okay, and sits on interlocked rubber cockpit tiles that I have lining that locker. When cruising and using it daily, we don't stow it below, just at the forward end of the cockpit, and have put it on the cabin sole as well.
We anchor from the cockpit, port quarter. A couple of the cockpit tiles flapped over the coaming and toe rail allow me to place the anchor over the side and run the chain out through my hands, while protecting the gel coat and wood. Make sure the boat is moving, (aft is good) so the chain lays down in a line
Once the chain is down, one of us walks the rope road forward, paying it out from the basket and lays it in the bow chock we have installed. From there, we pay out whatever length is required and cleat it on the foredeck cleat. The bitter end of the rode has already been fastened to the stern cleat. I am going to remove the 1 center cleat on the foredeck and install 2 larger cleats, one on each side closer to the toe rail. The single cleat has got crowded some times.
Some stainless wire, or narrow zipties through the eye of the shackle pin and around one leg of the shackle secure the pin from backing out. Watch you don't catch your hands if wired.
I just switched the line on the claw. It has been in use for 7 years and I don't like the look of the thimble and the eye splice. Have cut off the first 20' where the braid has got a bit fuzzy and chafed from the bottom.
Oh yeah, think about how and where you will move, during the night, if you have too. Do you have things clear in the cockpit, a light handy if required?. Motor ready to start? Do you know where to move to? We did 2 times on our last trip. Once just across the bay to be in more of a lee, once around a point.
Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622
On Thu, Sep 13, 2012 at 11:06 PM, Daniel Rich <danielgrich@gmail.com> wrote:
Montypals:
Just got back last week from the Small Craft Skills
Academy in Port
Townsend. Fantastic experience. Anyway, based on that I
have a bunch of
things to think about. One of them is how to handle my
anchor tackle.
Presently I have a small danforth with about 6 feet of
chain, and then
about 80 feet of rode. I have put marks on the rode now
to measure out how
much is being payed out as I anchor. I would like to
stow the thing in the
port lazarette which on my boat is wide open to the
bilge. How are you guys
doing this? Bag? Plastic container? I know that the
line needs to be
carefully flaked into the container so that it runs
free when paying out
the line. Thoughts here?
Daniel Rich M15 #208 "Kestrel" danielgrich@gmail.com
-- Chris
You can't beat Bill's comments for good advice. I have two anchors, a Manson Supreme and a Fortress FX-7. I keep the Manson under the V berth and all the rode in a WalMart hand-basket. It's easy to carry and it drains very well into a slightly larger square plastic bin that stays in the locker. I keep the FX-7 and rode in the port cockpit locker. It is light enough to wrestle in and out of the locker. I put a pair of tennis balls on each end of the anchor to keep it quiet and to prevent scrapes and scratches. All the rode is in a large net bag which in turn sits in a shallow plastic bin. This way the wet rode can sit below without getting water all over. It isn't the easiest thing to flake into the bag but it makes it very simple to deploy. I too drop anchor off the stern and cleat off on the stern cleat. Then I cinch up the throat of the bag a little and walk the bag forward keeping everthing outside of shrouds and rails. I cleat it off on the bow cleat and then walk the bag back the same way I came forward . When I get back to the cockpit I release the anchor line from the stern cleat and let the current/wind do the rest. I cleat off the line from the bag to the stern cleat. This serves as a safety backup and it makes it easy when I pull anchor. When it come time to pull anchor, I go forward and uncleat the line and go back to the cockpit where the bag is and pull everthing back in from the cockpit. Joe SeaFrog M17 PS to all my friends at Wal-Mart.....I promise to return the basket!! ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Wickett To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Friday, September 14, 2012 8:16 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Anchoring tackle Daniel, The Small Craft Skills Academy sounds like it was well put together. We anchor a lot. Nothing nicer than overnighting at anchor, the hull strakes chuckling at you. As you may know we just did a 2 week trip in August and anchored 13 of 14 nights. The one night at a slip was the last night before hauling out to head home. Primary anchor is a 5kg (11lb) Simpson Lawrence claw on 10 feet of chain. 2nd is a Fortress FX7 with 10 feet of chain, 3rd is a small folding grapnel (mostly used for a shore line or rock hook). Rode is 100' of 1/2". Have both 3 strand and braid for this. All have an eye splice with a galvanized thimble shackled to the chain. Chain length is compromise of useful length and size vs weight in the boat and where you are going to store it. Our chain could be longer in an ideal world, but I sleep well with it as is. Chain works to keep the pull on the anchor horizontal, and in gusts or waves, acts as a schock absorber in the system, lifting slightly off the bottom. As also mentioned it saves some abrasion on the rope section. Rope will lie on the bottom however and eventually chafes a bit at a time. We keep 100' of line, chain, and the SL Claw in a flexible laundry tote basket with handles. It goes down through the port cockpit hatch okay, and sits on interlocked rubber cockpit tiles that I have lining that locker. When cruising and using it daily, we don't stow it below, just at the forward end of the cockpit, and have put it on the cabin sole as well. We anchor from the cockpit, port quarter. A couple of the cockpit tiles flapped over the coaming and toe rail allow me to place the anchor over the side and run the chain out through my hands, while protecting the gel coat and wood. Make sure the boat is moving, (aft is good) so the chain lays down in a line Once the chain is down, one of us walks the rope road forward, paying it out from the basket and lays it in the bow chock we have installed. From there, we pay out whatever length is required and cleat it on the foredeck cleat. The bitter end of the rode has already been fastened to the stern cleat. I am going to remove the 1 center cleat on the foredeck and install 2 larger cleats, one on each side closer to the toe rail. The single cleat has got crowded some times. Some stainless wire, or narrow zipties through the eye of the shackle pin and around one leg of the shackle secure the pin from backing out. Watch you don't catch your hands if wired. I just switched the line on the claw. It has been in use for 7 years and I don't like the look of the thimble and the eye splice. Have cut off the first 20' where the braid has got a bit fuzzy and chafed from the bottom. Oh yeah, think about how and where you will move, during the night, if you have too. Do you have things clear in the cockpit, a light handy if required?. Motor ready to start? Do you know where to move to? We did 2 times on our last trip. Once just across the bay to be in more of a lee, once around a point. Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622 On Thu, Sep 13, 2012 at 11:06 PM, Daniel Rich <danielgrich@gmail.com> wrote:
Montypals:
Just got back last week from the Small Craft Skills Academy in Port Townsend. Fantastic experience. Anyway, based on that I have a bunch of things to think about. One of them is how to handle my anchor tackle. Presently I have a small danforth with about 6 feet of chain, and then about 80 feet of rode. I have put marks on the rode now to measure out how much is being payed out as I anchor. I would like to stow the thing in the port lazarette which on my boat is wide open to the bilge. How are you guys doing this? Bag? Plastic container? I know that the line needs to be carefully flaked into the container so that it runs free when paying out the line. Thoughts here?
Daniel Rich M15 #208 "Kestrel" danielgrich@gmail.com
Good stuff. I know you are just borrowing that basket... Daniel On 9/14/2012 9:03 AM, Joe Murphy wrote:
You can't beat Bill's comments for good advice. I have two anchors, a Manson Supreme and a Fortress FX-7. I keep the Manson under the V berth and all the rode in a WalMart hand-basket. It's easy to carry and it drains very well into a slightly larger square plastic bin that stays in the locker. I keep the FX-7 and rode in the port cockpit locker. It is light enough to wrestle in and out of the locker. I put a pair of tennis balls on each end of the anchor to keep it quiet and to prevent scrapes and scratches. All the rode is in a large net bag which in turn sits in a shallow plastic bin. This way the wet rode can sit below without getting water all over. It isn't the easiest thing to flake into the bag but it makes it very simple to deploy. I too drop anchor off the stern and cleat off on the stern cleat. Then I cinch up the throat of the bag a little and walk the bag forward keeping everthing outside of shrouds and rails. I cleat it off on the bow cleat and then walk the bag back the same way I came forward . When I get back to the cockpit I release the anchor line from the stern cleat and let the current/wind do the rest. I cleat off the line from the bag to the stern cleat. This serves as a safety backup and it makes it easy when I pull anchor. When it come time to pull anchor, I go forward and uncleat the line and go back to the cockpit where the bag is and pull everthing back in from the cockpit. Joe SeaFrog M17 PS to all my friends at Wal-Mart.....I promise to return the basket!! ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Wickett To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Friday, September 14, 2012 8:16 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Anchoring tackle
Daniel,
The Small Craft Skills Academy sounds like it was well put together.
We anchor a lot. Nothing nicer than overnighting at anchor, the hull strakes chuckling at you. As you may know we just did a 2 week trip in August and anchored 13 of 14 nights. The one night at a slip was the last night before hauling out to head home.
Primary anchor is a 5kg (11lb) Simpson Lawrence claw on 10 feet of chain. 2nd is a Fortress FX7 with 10 feet of chain, 3rd is a small folding grapnel (mostly used for a shore line or rock hook). Rode is 100' of 1/2". Have both 3 strand and braid for this. All have an eye splice with a galvanized thimble shackled to the chain.
Chain length is compromise of useful length and size vs weight in the boat and where you are going to store it. Our chain could be longer in an ideal world, but I sleep well with it as is.
Chain works to keep the pull on the anchor horizontal, and in gusts or waves, acts as a schock absorber in the system, lifting slightly off the bottom. As also mentioned it saves some abrasion on the rope section. Rope will lie on the bottom however and eventually chafes a bit at a time.
We keep 100' of line, chain, and the SL Claw in a flexible laundry tote basket with handles. It goes down through the port cockpit hatch okay, and sits on interlocked rubber cockpit tiles that I have lining that locker. When cruising and using it daily, we don't stow it below, just at the forward end of the cockpit, and have put it on the cabin sole as well.
We anchor from the cockpit, port quarter. A couple of the cockpit tiles flapped over the coaming and toe rail allow me to place the anchor over the side and run the chain out through my hands, while protecting the gel coat and wood. Make sure the boat is moving, (aft is good) so the chain lays down in a line
Once the chain is down, one of us walks the rope road forward, paying it out from the basket and lays it in the bow chock we have installed. From there, we pay out whatever length is required and cleat it on the foredeck cleat. The bitter end of the rode has already been fastened to the stern cleat. I am going to remove the 1 center cleat on the foredeck and install 2 larger cleats, one on each side closer to the toe rail. The single cleat has got crowded some times.
Some stainless wire, or narrow zipties through the eye of the shackle pin and around one leg of the shackle secure the pin from backing out. Watch you don't catch your hands if wired.
I just switched the line on the claw. It has been in use for 7 years and I don't like the look of the thimble and the eye splice. Have cut off the first 20' where the braid has got a bit fuzzy and chafed from the bottom.
Oh yeah, think about how and where you will move, during the night, if you have too. Do you have things clear in the cockpit, a light handy if required?. Motor ready to start? Do you know where to move to? We did 2 times on our last trip. Once just across the bay to be in more of a lee, once around a point.
Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622
On Thu, Sep 13, 2012 at 11:06 PM, Daniel Rich <danielgrich@gmail.com> wrote:
Montypals:
Just got back last week from the Small Craft Skills Academy in Port Townsend. Fantastic experience. Anyway, based on that I have a bunch of things to think about. One of them is how to handle my anchor tackle. Presently I have a small danforth with about 6 feet of chain, and then about 80 feet of rode. I have put marks on the rode now to measure out how much is being payed out as I anchor. I would like to stow the thing in the port lazarette which on my boat is wide open to the bilge. How are you guys doing this? Bag? Plastic container? I know that the line needs to be carefully flaked into the container so that it runs free when paying out the line. Thoughts here?
Daniel Rich M15 #208 "Kestrel" danielgrich@gmail.com
I like the tennis balls on the ends of the FX-7. On Fri, Sep 14, 2012 at 12:03 PM, Joe Murphy <seagray@embarqmail.com> wrote:
You can't beat Bill's comments for good advice. I have two anchors, a Manson Supreme and a Fortress FX-7. I keep the Manson under the V berth and all the rode in a WalMart hand-basket. It's easy to carry and it drains very well into a slightly larger square plastic bin that stays in the locker. I keep the FX-7 and rode in the port cockpit locker. It is light enough to wrestle in and out of the locker. I put a pair of tennis balls on each end of the anchor to keep it quiet and to prevent scrapes and scratches. All the rode is in a large net bag which in turn sits in a shallow plastic bin. This way the wet rode can sit below without getting water all over. It isn't the easiest thing to flake into the bag but it makes it very simple to deploy. I too drop anchor off the stern and cleat off on the stern cleat. Then I cinch up the throat of the bag a little and walk the bag forward keeping everthing outside of shrouds and rails. I cleat it off on the bow cleat and then walk the bag back the same way I came forward . When I get back to the cockpit I release the anchor line from the stern cleat and let the current/wind do the rest. I cleat off the line from the bag to the stern cleat. This serves as a safety backup and it makes it easy when I pull anchor. When it come time to pull anchor, I go forward and uncleat the line and go back to the cockpit where the bag is and pull everthing back in from the cockpit. Joe SeaFrog M17 PS to all my friends at Wal-Mart.....I promise to return the basket!! ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Wickett To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Friday, September 14, 2012 8:16 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Anchoring tackle
Daniel,
The Small Craft Skills Academy sounds like it was well put together.
We anchor a lot. Nothing nicer than overnighting at anchor, the hull strakes chuckling at you. As you may know we just did a 2 week trip in August and anchored 13 of 14 nights. The one night at a slip was the last night before hauling out to head home.
Primary anchor is a 5kg (11lb) Simpson Lawrence claw on 10 feet of chain. 2nd is a Fortress FX7 with 10 feet of chain, 3rd is a small folding grapnel (mostly used for a shore line or rock hook). Rode is 100' of 1/2". Have both 3 strand and braid for this. All have an eye splice with a galvanized thimble shackled to the chain.
Chain length is compromise of useful length and size vs weight in the boat and where you are going to store it. Our chain could be longer in an ideal world, but I sleep well with it as is.
Chain works to keep the pull on the anchor horizontal, and in gusts or waves, acts as a schock absorber in the system, lifting slightly off the bottom. As also mentioned it saves some abrasion on the rope section. Rope will lie on the bottom however and eventually chafes a bit at a time.
We keep 100' of line, chain, and the SL Claw in a flexible laundry tote basket with handles. It goes down through the port cockpit hatch okay, and sits on interlocked rubber cockpit tiles that I have lining that locker. When cruising and using it daily, we don't stow it below, just at the forward end of the cockpit, and have put it on the cabin sole as well.
We anchor from the cockpit, port quarter. A couple of the cockpit tiles flapped over the coaming and toe rail allow me to place the anchor over the side and run the chain out through my hands, while protecting the gel coat and wood. Make sure the boat is moving, (aft is good) so the chain lays down in a line
Once the chain is down, one of us walks the rope road forward, paying it out from the basket and lays it in the bow chock we have installed. From there, we pay out whatever length is required and cleat it on the foredeck cleat. The bitter end of the rode has already been fastened to the stern cleat. I am going to remove the 1 center cleat on the foredeck and install 2 larger cleats, one on each side closer to the toe rail. The single cleat has got crowded some times.
Some stainless wire, or narrow zipties through the eye of the shackle pin and around one leg of the shackle secure the pin from backing out. Watch you don't catch your hands if wired.
I just switched the line on the claw. It has been in use for 7 years and I don't like the look of the thimble and the eye splice. Have cut off the first 20' where the braid has got a bit fuzzy and chafed from the bottom.
Oh yeah, think about how and where you will move, during the night, if you have too. Do you have things clear in the cockpit, a light handy if required?. Motor ready to start? Do you know where to move to? We did 2 times on our last trip. Once just across the bay to be in more of a lee, once around a point.
Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622
On Thu, Sep 13, 2012 at 11:06 PM, Daniel Rich <danielgrich@gmail.com> wrote:
Montypals:
Just got back last week from the Small Craft Skills Academy in Port Townsend. Fantastic experience. Anyway, based on that I have a bunch of things to think about. One of them is how to handle my anchor tackle. Presently I have a small danforth with about 6 feet of chain, and then about 80 feet of rode. I have put marks on the rode now to measure out how much is being payed out as I anchor. I would like to stow the thing in the port lazarette which on my boat is wide open to the bilge. How are you guys doing this? Bag? Plastic container? I know that the line needs to be carefully flaked into the container so that it runs free when paying out the line. Thoughts here?
Daniel Rich M15 #208 "Kestrel" danielgrich@gmail.com
Just terrific info. Do you have depth marks on your rode? Daniel On 9/14/2012 5:16 AM, Bill Wickett wrote:
Daniel,
The Small Craft Skills Academy sounds like it was well put together.
We anchor a lot. Nothing nicer than overnighting at anchor, the hull strakes chuckling at you. As you may know we just did a 2 week trip in August and anchored 13 of 14 nights. The one night at a slip was the last night before hauling out to head home.
Primary anchor is a 5kg (11lb) Simpson Lawrence claw on 10 feet of chain. 2nd is a Fortress FX7 with 10 feet of chain, 3rd is a small folding grapnel (mostly used for a shore line or rock hook). Rode is 100' of 1/2". Have both 3 strand and braid for this. All have an eye splice with a galvanized thimble shackled to the chain.
Chain length is compromise of useful length and size vs weight in the boat and where you are going to store it. Our chain could be longer in an ideal world, but I sleep well with it as is.
Chain works to keep the pull on the anchor horizontal, and in gusts or waves, acts as a schock absorber in the system, lifting slightly off the bottom. As also mentioned it saves some abrasion on the rope section. Rope will lie on the bottom however and eventually chafes a bit at a time.
We keep 100' of line, chain, and the SL Claw in a flexible laundry tote basket with handles. It goes down through the port cockpit hatch okay, and sits on interlocked rubber cockpit tiles that I have lining that locker. When cruising and using it daily, we don't stow it below, just at the forward end of the cockpit, and have put it on the cabin sole as well.
We anchor from the cockpit, port quarter. A couple of the cockpit tiles flapped over the coaming and toe rail allow me to place the anchor over the side and run the chain out through my hands, while protecting the gel coat and wood. Make sure the boat is moving, (aft is good) so the chain lays down in a line
Once the chain is down, one of us walks the rope road forward, paying it out from the basket and lays it in the bow chock we have installed. From there, we pay out whatever length is required and cleat it on the foredeck cleat. The bitter end of the rode has already been fastened to the stern cleat. I am going to remove the 1 center cleat on the foredeck and install 2 larger cleats, one on each side closer to the toe rail. The single cleat has got crowded some times.
Some stainless wire, or narrow zipties through the eye of the shackle pin and around one leg of the shackle secure the pin from backing out. Watch you don't catch your hands if wired.
I just switched the line on the claw. It has been in use for 7 years and I don't like the look of the thimble and the eye splice. Have cut off the first 20' where the braid has got a bit fuzzy and chafed from the bottom.
Oh yeah, think about how and where you will move, during the night, if you have too. Do you have things clear in the cockpit, a light handy if required?. Motor ready to start? Do you know where to move to? We did 2 times on our last trip. Once just across the bay to be in more of a lee, once around a point.
Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622
On Thu, Sep 13, 2012 at 11:06 PM, Daniel Rich <danielgrich@gmail.com> wrote:
Montypals:
Just got back last week from the Small Craft Skills Academy in Port Townsend. Fantastic experience. Anyway, based on that I have a bunch of things to think about. One of them is how to handle my anchor tackle. Presently I have a small danforth with about 6 feet of chain, and then about 80 feet of rode. I have put marks on the rode now to measure out how much is being payed out as I anchor. I would like to stow the thing in the port lazarette which on my boat is wide open to the bilge. How are you guys doing this? Bag? Plastic container? I know that the line needs to be carefully flaked into the container so that it runs free when paying out the line. Thoughts here?
Daniel Rich M15 #208 "Kestrel" danielgrich@gmail.com
Daniel, I store my every-day anchor as far forward as I can in the port cockpit locker of my M-17 to keep the weight low and centralized but still be handy. It lives in a rectangular bucket purchased from Orchard Supply. Rectangular buckets are a better shape if you flake your rode in a figure 8, and the anchor fits better in it too. Its also easier to get in and out of the locker because, unlike a round bucket, it's shorter in one direction than the other. If things look the least bit edgy I break out my 14# Delta with 27' of 1/4" chain and 210' of 1/2" line (the 1/2" line is overkill but I had it left over from a bigger boat). I store that baby in a canvas bag under the cockpit when I cruise. It takes some fumbling around to dig it out and get it ready but it the best sleeping pill money can buy. Another thought: There's nothing wrong with having a small "emergency brake" anchor with 50' of 3/8" nylon and NO chain on it. This should not be used as an overnight anchor, or even a lunch hook if you leave the boat. It's just a lot less hassle when you're messing around in gunkholes. Jim M17 "Spirit" On Sep 13, 2012, at 8:06 PM, Daniel Rich wrote:
Montypals:
Just got back last week from the Small Craft Skills Academy in Port Townsend. Fantastic experience. Anyway, based on that I have a bunch of things to think about. One of them is how to handle my anchor tackle. Presently I have a small danforth with about 6 feet of chain, and then about 80 feet of rode. I have put marks on the rode now to measure out how much is being payed out as I anchor. I would like to stow the thing in the port lazarette which on my boat is wide open to the bilge. How are you guys doing this? Bag? Plastic container? I know that the line needs to be carefully flaked into the container so that it runs free when paying out the line. Thoughts here?
Daniel Rich M15 #208 "Kestrel" danielgrich@gmail.com
This is great stuff. I like the figure 8 idea. I'm gonna have to try that. Daniel On Sep 14, 2012, at 4:50 PM, James Poulakis wrote:
Daniel, I store my every-day anchor as far forward as I can in the port cockpit locker of my M-17 to keep the weight low and centralized but still be handy. It lives in a rectangular bucket purchased from Orchard Supply. Rectangular buckets are a better shape if you flake your rode in a figure 8, and the anchor fits better in it too. Its also easier to get in and out of the locker because, unlike a round bucket, it's shorter in one direction than the other. If things look the least bit edgy I break out my 14# Delta with 27' of 1/4" chain and 210' of 1/2" line (the 1/2" line is overkill but I had it left over from a bigger boat). I store that baby in a canvas bag under the cockpit when I cruise. It takes some fumbling around to dig it out and get it ready but it the best sleeping pill money can buy. Another thought: There's nothing wrong with having a small "emergency brake" anchor with 50' of 3/8" nylon and NO chain on it. This should not be used as an overnight anchor, or even a lunch hook if you leave the boat. It's just a lot less hassle when you're messing around in gunkholes.
Jim M17 "Spirit"
On Sep 13, 2012, at 8:06 PM, Daniel Rich wrote:
Montypals:
Just got back last week from the Small Craft Skills Academy in Port Townsend. Fantastic experience. Anyway, based on that I have a bunch of things to think about. One of them is how to handle my anchor tackle. Presently I have a small danforth with about 6 feet of chain, and then about 80 feet of rode. I have put marks on the rode now to measure out how much is being payed out as I anchor. I would like to stow the thing in the port lazarette which on my boat is wide open to the bilge. How are you guys doing this? Bag? Plastic container? I know that the line needs to be carefully flaked into the container so that it runs free when paying out the line. Thoughts here?
Daniel Rich M15 #208 "Kestrel" danielgrich@gmail.com
Sent from my iPad On Sep 14, 2012, at 6:23 PM, Daniel Rich <danielgrich@gmail.com> wrote:
This is great stuff. I like the figure 8 idea. I'm gonna have to try that.
Daniel On Sep 14, 2012, at 4:50 PM, James Poulakis wrote:
Daniel, I store my every-day anchor as far forward as I can in the port cockpit locker of my M-17 to keep the weight low and centralized but still be handy. It lives in a rectangular bucket purchased from Orchard Supply. Rectangular buckets are a better shape if you flake your rode in a figure 8, and the anchor fits better in it too. Its also easier to get in and out of the locker because, unlike a round bucket, it's shorter in one direction than the other. If things look the least bit edgy I break out my 14# Delta with 27' of 1/4" chain and 210' of 1/2" line (the 1/2" line is overkill but I had it left over from a bigger boat). I store that baby in a canvas bag under the cockpit when I cruise. It takes some fumbling around to dig it out and get it ready but it the best sleeping pill money can buy. Another thought: There's nothing wrong with having a small "emergency brake" anchor with 50' of 3/8" nylon and NO chain on it. This should not be used as an overnight anchor, or even a lunch hook if you leave the boat. It's just a lot less hassle when you're messing around in gunkholes.
Jim M17 "Spirit"
On Sep 13, 2012, at 8:06 PM, Daniel Rich wrote:
Montypals:
Just got back last week from the Small Craft Skills Academy in Port Townsend. Fantastic experience. Anyway, based on that I have a bunch of things to think about. One of them is how to handle my anchor tackle. Presently I have a small danforth with about 6 feet of chain, and then about 80 feet of rode. I have put marks on the rode now to measure out how much is being payed out as I anchor. I would like to stow the thing in the port lazarette which on my boat is wide open to the bilge. How are you guys doing this? Bag? Plastic container? I know that the line needs to be carefully flaked into the container so that it runs free when paying out the line. Thoughts here?
Daniel Rich M15 #208 "Kestrel" danielgrich@gmail.com
participants (10)
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Becky Belding -
Bill Ahrens -
Bill Buller -
Bill Wickett -
Chris Smith -
Conbert Benneck -
Daniel Rich -
James Poulakis -
Joe Murphy -
W David Scobie