Hi Clint, When I sent you dimensions and mast data, I was of the opinion that you had a bent mast and could therefore see where things fitted per my dimensions and all you needed were exact locations. Totally loosing a mast presents another problem! So, let me add a lot more detail to my original dimensions so that you know what to buy; where it goes; and why.............. The down haul jam cleat @ 17" and the S/S eye on the port side @ 19" from mast bottom.: A short length of 1/4" Dacron line has one end tied to the S/S eye. The line goes through the eye at the bottom of the boom gooseneck fitting and back down to the down haul jam cleat. (jam cleat has to prevent boom form riding up - correct orientation of the teeth!) The purpose of this line is to keep the boom from sliding upwards as you tighten the main halyard, and after the main is up, you can tighten the down haul to slightly change and improve sail shape. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ The 1/4" hole through the middle of the mast @ 172.5" is for the 1/4" diameter S/S hex headed bolt that holds the forestay and the shrouds in place. The forestay exits through the hole on the forward side of the mast @ 168.5" to 169.5" (3/8" wide). When you cut this hole use a scraper or a file to round off the inside edges and the outside edges of the hole. The S/S bolt should be held in place with an elastic stop nut (change the nut every time you take it apart otherwise it might not hold as well on the second use). The assembly should be: starting with the S/S bolt: put on a S/S washer; next put on a plastic washer; then the shroud eye; and another plastic washer. At this point you can put the bolt partially into the hole in the mast. Now comes the juggling act as you hold the eye of the forestay in the slot while you try and capture it with the end of the S/S bolt. Several tries later, after you have succeeded; duplicate what you had on the first shroud side: a plastic washer next to the mast; the shroud eye; a plastic washer; and finally a S/S washer and the elastic stop nut. ~~~~~~~~~~ The S/S eye @ 166" from the bottom of the mast is for the jib halyard block. My assembly had a block with a fixed becket on the block. The S/S eye went through this becket and was then riveted to the mast at that location. When I rebuilt my mast I got a new block with a becket that would swivel, and that had a pin through the becket so that I could easily remove the block without drilling out the rivets of the eye. ~~~~~~~~~~ Fairlead @ 42" from bottom of mast. This is a S/S eye riveted to the side of the mast and serves to lead the main halyard to the 3 1/2" cleat. Rick Langer suggested using a larger cleat, but I have no problems with this size cleat, so don't know why he would prefer larger ones (using larger diameter line than I do, perhaps?) ~~~~~~~~~~~ A boom stop is needed @ 20" from the bottom of the mast. Without this boom stop, if you put the boom in the mast slot, it will fall to the deck........... The boom stop keeps it in place. I just drilled a hole in the side of the mast slot and put in a pop rivet. If you want to get fancier, drill an appropriate size hole through both sides of the sail track slot at the 20" height and put a S/S cotter pin through both holes. Cut off the ends of the cotter pin so that they don't project more than about 1/4" and also carefully round the ends of the cotter pin before putting it in place and spreading the ends. Spread the ends at about 15 degrees total: this keeps the cotter pin in place but allows you to easily remove it when you want to - and eliminates sharp edges that can cut you if you aren't careful. ~~~~~~~~~~~~ Masthead fitting: You may want to take a rat tailed file and ease the bottom corners of the casting underneath the sheaves so that the halyard doesn't rub on the edge of the fitting but leads clean. Also make sure that the pathway of the halyard is clean and has smooth edges. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~ My original masthead fitting had pins through the sheaves with a split ring holding them in place. I built a small flat piece of stainless with two holes - one to fit the pin size of the sheave, the other end to accept the becket of a small block. I put this on the aft sheave pin and now used this block as a topping lift for the boom. An 1/8" Dacron line runs from the end of the boom, up to the masthead; through the small block, and back down to a cleat on the side of the mast. A very handy item to have. When you drop the main the boom stays horizontal instead of crashing into the cockpit. Then I can furl the main; put on the sail stops, and the sail cover. If you have any question as you start to rebuild your mast, .............yell, and I'll see if I can answer them! Connie