Dear all, the bunks for the trailer for my Monty 17 need to be replaced (they are aged and cracked). I have two questions for the knowledgeable people on this list: a) the existing bunks are curved, but the 2x6's I bought at my local lumberyard are (obviously) straight. The curved ones should be slightly longer than that the straight-line distance between the mounting holes on the trailer. Where should I drill the screw holes in the wood? Should I do it as if I were mounting the bunks straight, and then let the weight of the boat sag them to the correct shape (easier to mount, but I don't know if the wood is elastic enough to stretch to the required length). Or should I drill the holes as if the bunks were already curved (slightly farther apart), but then I am not sure how I will mount them without some weight to curve them down (the holes in the bunks will not align with the holes on the trailer). Any suggestions? The complicating factor is that my current bunks are in such bad shape that once I take them out, with the boat in the water, there is no way I can put them back in, so I must have a well-thought- out plan since I can not leave the boat in the water at the dock. b) I read on the internet confusing opinions on whether I should attach the carpeting with only staples, or with glue and staples. Glue and staples is more work, and requires the whole thing to wait 48 hours. Would the carpeting start to bunch up if I didn't put in glue? Thanks for any help, Andrei. P.S. I have posted photos from my Apostle Islands trip this July (solo in the M-17, 4 days), at http://www.math.wisc.edu/~andreic/gogu/Photo%20Album/2009/Apostle%20Islands%... A.
Great photos of your Apostles trip, Andrei! You're a skilled photographer. It looks like you and Seaweed had a fun trip. I hope you can join us on our next Montys Apostles Cruise! Gordon M-17 "Sapphire" Milwaukee On Oct 5, 2009, at 9:18 AM, Andrei Caldararu wrote:
Dear all,
the bunks for the trailer for my Monty 17 need to be replaced (they are aged and cracked). I have two questions for the knowledgeable people on this list:
a) the existing bunks are curved, but the 2x6's I bought at my local lumberyard are (obviously) straight. The curved ones should be slightly longer than that the straight-line distance between the mounting holes on the trailer. Where should I drill the screw holes in the wood? Should I do it as if I were mounting the bunks straight, and then let the weight of the boat sag them to the correct shape (easier to mount, but I don't know if the wood is elastic enough to stretch to the required length). Or should I drill the holes as if the bunks were already curved (slightly farther apart), but then I am not sure how I will mount them without some weight to curve them down (the holes in the bunks will not align with the holes on the trailer). Any suggestions? The complicating factor is that my current bunks are in such bad shape that once I take them out, with the boat in the water, there is no way I can put them back in, so I must have a well-thought- out plan since I can not leave the boat in the water at the dock.
b) I read on the internet confusing opinions on whether I should attach the carpeting with only staples, or with glue and staples. Glue and staples is more work, and requires the whole thing to wait 48 hours. Would the carpeting start to bunch up if I didn't put in glue?
Thanks for any help,
Andrei.
P.S. I have posted photos from my Apostle Islands trip this July (solo in the M-17, 4 days), at
http://www.math.wisc.edu/~andreic/gogu/Photo%20Album/2009/Apostle%20Islands%...
A.
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
Thanks! I surely hope we can align our schedules so we go together to the Apostles next year. Andrei.
Andrei, I replaced the bunks on my M17 a couple of times. Just measure the distance between the bolts with the old bunks installed. i.e. along the curved bunk. As I recall there is a little play at the attachment point anyway. ken from ca ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrei Caldararu" <andreic@math.wisc.edu> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 7:18 AM Subject: M_Boats: Bunks replacement
Dear all,
the bunks for the trailer for my Monty 17 need to be replaced (they are aged and cracked). I have two questions for the knowledgeable people on this list:
a) the existing bunks are curved, but the 2x6's I bought at my local lumberyard are (obviously) straight. The curved ones should be slightly longer than that the straight-line distance between the mounting holes on the trailer. Where should I drill the screw holes in the wood? Should I do it as if I were mounting the bunks straight, and then let the weight of the boat sag them to the correct shape (easier to mount, but I don't know if the wood is elastic enough to stretch to the required length). Or should I drill the holes as if the bunks were already curved (slightly farther apart), but then I am not sure how I will mount them without some weight to curve them down (the holes in the bunks will not align with the holes on the trailer). Any suggestions? The complicating factor is that my current bunks are in such bad shape that once I take them out, with the boat in the water, there is no way I can put them back in, so I must have a well-thought- out plan since I can not leave the boat in the water at the dock.
b) I read on the internet confusing opinions on whether I should attach the carpeting with only staples, or with glue and staples. Glue and staples is more work, and requires the whole thing to wait 48 hours. Would the carpeting start to bunch up if I didn't put in glue?
Thanks for any help,
Andrei.
P.S. I have posted photos from my Apostle Islands trip this July (solo in the M-17, 4 days), at
http://www.math.wisc.edu/~andreic/gogu/Photo%20Album/2009/Apostle%20Islands%...
A.
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
Andrei, Have you considered this simple approach?? It's the method I used, and I love simple.? With the boat off the trailer, raise the center bunk board support so that it is level with the fore/aft supports.? Secure the new bunk board to each of the three bunk board supports.? Put your boat back onto the trailer keeping the center support slightly loose.? Once the boat is back onto the trailer, it will bow the bunk boards enough so that you should be able to tighten the center bunk board.? If your trailer is old like mine, it will not be hard to set the center support in the same position you found it.? I hope this helps make the process easier for you. Keeping it simple, Skip M-15 #201 - 1982 Wild Guppy -----Original Message----- From: Ken Wheeler <wesi@comcast.net> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Mon, Oct 5, 2009 11:34 am Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bunks replacement Andrei,? I replaced the bunks on my M17 a couple of times. Just measure the distance between the bolts with the old bunks installed. i.e. along the curved bunk. As I recall there is a little play at the attachment point anyway.? ken from ca? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrei Caldararu" <andreic@math.wisc.edu>? To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com>? Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 7:18 AM? Subject: M_Boats: Bunks replacement? ?
Dear all,? ? the bunks for the trailer for my Monty 17 need to be replaced (they are > aged and cracked). I have two questions for the knowledgeable people on > this list:? ? a) the existing bunks are curved, but the 2x6's I bought at my local > lumberyard are (obviously) straight. The curved ones should be slightly > longer than that the straight-line distance between the mounting holes on > the trailer. Where should I drill the screw holes in the wood? Should I > do it as if I were mounting the bunks straight, and then let the weight > of the boat sag them to the correct shape (easier to mount, but I don't > know if the wood is elastic enough to stretch to the required length). Or > should I drill the holes as if the bunks were already curved (slightly > farther apart), but then I am not sure how I will mount them without some > weight to curve them down (the holes in the bunks will not align with the > holes on the trailer). Any suggestions? The complicating factor is that > my current bunks are in such bad shape that once I take them out, with > the boat in the water, there is no way I can put them back in, so I must > have a well-thought- out plan since I can not leave the boat in the water > at the dock.? ? b) I read on the internet confusing opinions on whether I should attach > the carpeting with only staples, or with glue and staples. Glue and > staples is more work, and requires the whole thing to wait 48 hours. > Would the carpeting start to bunch up if I didn't put in glue?? ? Thanks for any help,? ? Andrei.? ? P.S. I have posted photos from my Apostle Islands trip this July (solo in > the M-17, 4 days), at? ? http://www.math.wisc.edu/~andreic/gogu/Photo%20Album/2009/Apostle%20Islands%... ? A.? ? ? _______________________________________________? http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats? ? Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!? ? ? _______________________________________________? http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats? ? Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!?
Thank you all for the responses. However, my trailer does not have a center bunk support! The bunks are only supported at the ends, on supports that cannot be adjusted up or down. Andrei.
Andrei, I haven't been following this thread so this may have been discussed, but just a heads up NOT to use just any old carpet on the bunks. I have heard of cases where the wrong carpet was used and it stained the boat. Bob M15 #208 Ken Wheeler wrote:
Andrei, I replaced the bunks on my M17 a couple of times. Just measure the distance between the bolts with the old bunks installed. i.e. along the curved bunk. As I recall there is a little play at the attachment point anyway. ken from ca ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrei Caldararu" <andreic@math.wisc.edu> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 7:18 AM Subject: M_Boats: Bunks replacement
Dear all,
the bunks for the trailer for my Monty 17 need to be replaced (they are aged and cracked). I have two questions for the knowledgeable people on this list:
a) the existing bunks are curved, but the 2x6's I bought at my local lumberyard are (obviously) straight. The curved ones should be slightly longer than that the straight-line distance between the mounting holes on the trailer. Where should I drill the screw holes in the wood? Should I do it as if I were mounting the bunks straight, and then let the weight of the boat sag them to the correct shape (easier to mount, but I don't know if the wood is elastic enough to stretch to the required length). Or should I drill the holes as if the bunks were already curved (slightly farther apart), but then I am not sure how I will mount them without some weight to curve them down (the holes in the bunks will not align with the holes on the trailer). Any suggestions? The complicating factor is that my current bunks are in such bad shape that once I take them out, with the boat in the water, there is no way I can put them back in, so I must have a well-thought- out plan since I can not leave the boat in the water at the dock.
b) I read on the internet confusing opinions on whether I should attach the carpeting with only staples, or with glue and staples. Glue and staples is more work, and requires the whole thing to wait 48 hours. Would the carpeting start to bunch up if I didn't put in glue?
Thanks for any help,
Andrei.
P.S. I have posted photos from my Apostle Islands trip this July (solo in the M-17, 4 days), at
http://www.math.wisc.edu/~andreic/gogu/Photo%20Album/2009/Apostle%20Islands%...
A.
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
Andrew, When I replaced the bunks on my 1974 M17, I also measured the distance between the bolt holes in the old boards with the boards still in place. Since the boat was out of the water, I used a couple of 4x4s bolted to the perforated toe rail to prop up the hull then undid the adjusting bolts and lowered the bunk brackets a few inches. I countersunk galvanized bolts in the bunks and used stainless steel staples to attach ribbed carpet stair runner material with a heavy rubber backing to the boards. I then sprung the boards down into a curve with an old boom vang tackle and attached the bolts. The last step was to remove the pull down tackle and raise the bunk supports back to the original position and tighten the adjustment bolts. This job may have been easier on Griselda since she is one of the rare fin/bulb keel models and the bunks are up at chest level so one does not have to crawl around under the trailer. While I had the hull propped up, I barrier coated and painted the bottom with anti fouling. I did one side, and gave it a few days drying time for each step then did the other side. I don't think the propping up caused any problems since the hull was still supported by the keel support and the bunk on the other side and the the timbers were only used to balance the hull. Earlier, I had jacked up the bunk supports to raise up the enire hull while I lowered the keel to replace the keel bolts and re-bed the keel to hull joint. While I had the boat raised, I primed and painted the bottom of the cast iron keel bulb. A small hydraulic "bottle jack' and a piece of 4x4 works great for raising the bunk supports Whitebeard M17 #14, Griselda
From: andreic@math.wisc.edu To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 09:18:12 -0500 Subject: M_Boats: Bunks replacement
Dear all,
the bunks for the trailer for my Monty 17 need to be replaced (they are aged and cracked). I have two questions for the knowledgeable people on this list:
a) the existing bunks are curved, but the 2x6's I bought at my local lumberyard are (obviously) straight. The curved ones should be slightly longer than that the straight-line distance between the mounting holes on the trailer. Where should I drill the screw holes in the wood? Should I do it as if I were mounting the bunks straight, and then let the weight of the boat sag them to the correct shape (easier to mount, but I don't know if the wood is elastic enough to stretch to the required length). Or should I drill the holes as if the bunks were already curved (slightly farther apart), but then I am not sure how I will mount them without some weight to curve them down (the holes in the bunks will not align with the holes on the trailer). Any suggestions? The complicating factor is that my current bunks are in such bad shape that once I take them out, with the boat in the water, there is no way I can put them back in, so I must have a well-thought- out plan since I can not leave the boat in the water at the dock.
b) I read on the internet confusing opinions on whether I should attach the carpeting with only staples, or with glue and staples. Glue and staples is more work, and requires the whole thing to wait 48 hours. Would the carpeting start to bunch up if I didn't put in glue?
Thanks for any help,
Andrei.
P.S. I have posted photos from my Apostle Islands trip this July (solo in the M-17, 4 days), at
http://www.math.wisc.edu/~andreic/gogu/Photo%20Album/2009/Apostle%20Islands%...
A.
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/
Hi All I can t help with the curves, but I use short, stainless, deck/dry wall type screws. Nothing but stainless, usually #8 by 1" or less is available. If hard to find, I have used pan head or round head screws. Of course these must be used where the boat never touches. When put through two layers of carpet the head almost buries and changing carpet later is easy, I always use pressure treated wood. It is often yellow pine, harder than pine, cheaper than cypress. It does come wet and will warp. For small boats, has anyone tried the new plastic lumber. It does set and would take a bend - perhaps too much. Off to Annapolis ;-) Cliff Marysville, PA On Mon, Oct 5, 2009 at 10:18 AM, Andrei Caldararu <andreic@math.wisc.edu>wrote:
Dear all,
the bunks for the trailer for my Monty 17 need to be replaced (they are aged and cracked). I have two questions for the knowledgeable people on this list:
a) the existing bunks are curved, but the 2x6's I bought at my local lumberyard are (obviously) straight. The curved ones should be slightly longer than that the straight-line distance between the mounting holes on the trailer. Where should I drill the screw holes in the wood? Should I do it as if I were mounting the bunks straight, and then let the weight of the boat sag them to the correct shape (easier to mount, but I don't know if the wood is elastic enough to stretch to the required length). Or should I drill the holes as if the bunks were already curved (slightly farther apart), but then I am not sure how I will mount them without some weight to curve them down (the holes in the bunks will not align with the holes on the trailer). Any suggestions? The complicating factor is that my current bunks are in such bad shape that once I take them out, with the boat in the water, there is no way I can put them back in, so I must have a well-thought-out plan since I can not leave the boat in the water at the dock.
b) I read on the internet confusing opinions on whether I should attach the carpeting with only staples, or with glue and staples. Glue and staples is more work, and requires the whole thing to wait 48 hours. Would the carpeting start to bunch up if I didn't put in glue?
Thanks for any help,
Andrei.
P.S. I have posted photos from my Apostle Islands trip this July (solo in the M-17, 4 days), at
http://www.math.wisc.edu/~andreic/gogu/Photo%20Album/2009/Apostle%20Islands%...
A.
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
participants (7)
-
Andrei Caldararu -
Clifford Dillmann -
Gordon Gilbert -
Ken Wheeler -
Robert Becker -
Ronnie Keeler -
wcampion＠aol.com