Daniel, yes it is possible to do both. My mainsail and boom is setup for jiffy reefing. Here is Judy Blumhorst's web page that shows some photos of how the rigging would be setup (I only have one line, the photo shows two.) http://www.blumhorst.com/potterpages/potter_19_jiffy_reefing.htm If you need to reef in a hurry, put the boat in irons, then cinch in the jiffy reefing line, which will raise the boom up at an angle. Then lower the main, cinch in the cunningham or adjust the downhaul accordingly or and tie up the reefing lines on each opposing side of the main to each other under the boom. I'm not sure this is totally "textbook" but it's how I do it. Better still, if I have any doubt I need to reef, I start out sailing that way and then shake out the reef later if I feel it wasn't needed. With a little practice it is easy to make the M15 heave to, and I'm still a relative newbie. On the subject of heaving to and reefing line, M15 sailor Doug Kelch ("Seas the Day") explained it very well in a posting back in 2005. I don't know how to find the link (other than Google) but I'm sure he wouldn't mind my pasting it for you below: * * * * * "With the Montgomery boats there should not be a problem heaving to regardless of where the weight is. Heaving to is somewhat of a balancing act/art form but the basics should work all of the time. 1)cleat off the jib tight to the fairlead, 2)Tack leaving the jib cleated 3) hold the heading head to wind for a few seconds during the tack to take the speed off of the boat. 4) ease the mainsheet so that the boom is a foot or two off of the stern quarter and comlete the tack. 5) push the tiller as far to leward as possible on the new tack and tie it off. It is critical that the rudder be all the way to leward so that it acts as a brake and lets the boat burn any off any new energy trying to tack back when it has no momentum. The boat will creep forward makeing small attempts to come up to windward but not succeeding due the tiller braking action and the backwinded jib. My jiffy reefing is set up inboard of the end of the boom just so I can reach the reefing lines while hove to. Thanks Doug Kelch" * * * * * Doug: Safe travels to the Northwest and Fair Winds! Neil
Good stuff. Daniel On Aug 30, 2010, at 9:07 PM, ndorf@surfbest.net wrote:
Daniel, yes it is possible to do both.
My mainsail and boom is setup for jiffy reefing. Here is Judy Blumhorst's web page that shows some photos of how the rigging would be setup (I only have one line, the photo shows two.)
http://www.blumhorst.com/potterpages/potter_19_jiffy_reefing.htm
If you need to reef in a hurry, put the boat in irons, then cinch in the jiffy reefing line, which will raise the boom up at an angle. Then lower the main, cinch in the cunningham or adjust the downhaul accordingly or and tie up the reefing lines on each opposing side of the main to each other under the boom.
I'm not sure this is totally "textbook" but it's how I do it. Better still, if I have any doubt I need to reef, I start out sailing that way and then shake out the reef later if I feel it wasn't needed.
With a little practice it is easy to make the M15 heave to, and I'm still a relative newbie.
On the subject of heaving to and reefing line, M15 sailor Doug Kelch ("Seas the Day") explained it very well in a posting back in 2005. I don't know how to find the link (other than Google) but I'm sure he wouldn't mind my pasting it for you below:
* * * * *
"With the Montgomery boats there should not be a problem heaving to regardless of where the weight is.
Heaving to is somewhat of a balancing act/art form but the basics should work all of the time.
1)cleat off the jib tight to the fairlead, 2)Tack leaving the jib cleated 3) hold the heading head to wind for a few seconds during the tack to take the speed off of the boat. 4) ease the mainsheet so that the boom is a foot or two off of the stern quarter and comlete the tack. 5) push the tiller as far to leward as possible on the new tack and tie it off.
It is critical that the rudder be all the way to leward so that it acts as a brake and lets the boat burn any off any new energy trying to tack back when it has no momentum. The boat will creep forward makeing small attempts to come up to windward but not succeeding due the tiller braking action and the backwinded jib.
My jiffy reefing is set up inboard of the end of the boom just so I can reach the reefing lines while hove to.
Thanks
Doug Kelch"
* * * * *
Doug: Safe travels to the Northwest and Fair Winds!
Neil
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Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
Just a few comments on installing jiffy reefing... - The boom clew hardware should be positioned so the reefing line pulls the sail down and aft when the sail is in the reefed position (about 45 degrees). - When you install cleats on the boom (especially horn cleats) make sure they won't hook up on the shrouds when the boom is all the way out. - It's nice to have a permanent (not thumb screwed) slide stop below the gooseneck so the boom doesn't come clattering to the deck when the halyard is released. I located mine so that the boom rests low enough that all the sail slugs will stack up under the mast gate. - Depending on how you rig your tack, a mast gate may be a godsend. Or not. Jim M-17 "Spirit" On Aug 30, 2010, at 9:07 PM, ndorf@surfbest.net wrote:
Daniel, yes it is possible to do both.
My mainsail and boom is setup for jiffy reefing. Here is Judy Blumhorst's web page that shows some photos of how the rigging would be setup (I only have one line, the photo shows two.)
http://www.blumhorst.com/potterpages/potter_19_jiffy_reefing.htm
If you need to reef in a hurry, put the boat in irons, then cinch in the jiffy reefing line, which will raise the boom up at an angle. Then lower the main, cinch in the cunningham or adjust the downhaul accordingly or and tie up the reefing lines on each opposing side of the main to each other under the boom.
I'm not sure this is totally "textbook" but it's how I do it. Better still, if I have any doubt I need to reef, I start out sailing that way and then shake out the reef later if I feel it wasn't needed.
With a little practice it is easy to make the M15 heave to, and I'm still a relative newbie.
On the subject of heaving to and reefing line, M15 sailor Doug Kelch ("Seas the Day") explained it very well in a posting back in 2005. I don't know how to find the link (other than Google) but I'm sure he wouldn't mind my pasting it for you below:
* * * * *
"With the Montgomery boats there should not be a problem heaving to regardless of where the weight is.
Heaving to is somewhat of a balancing act/art form but the basics should work all of the time.
1)cleat off the jib tight to the fairlead, 2)Tack leaving the jib cleated 3) hold the heading head to wind for a few seconds during the tack to take the speed off of the boat. 4) ease the mainsheet so that the boom is a foot or two off of the stern quarter and comlete the tack. 5) push the tiller as far to leward as possible on the new tack and tie it off.
It is critical that the rudder be all the way to leward so that it acts as a brake and lets the boat burn any off any new energy trying to tack back when it has no momentum. The boat will creep forward makeing small attempts to come up to windward but not succeeding due the tiller braking action and the backwinded jib.
My jiffy reefing is set up inboard of the end of the boom just so I can reach the reefing lines while hove to.
Thanks
Doug Kelch"
* * * * *
Doug: Safe travels to the Northwest and Fair Winds!
Neil
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Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
Thanks for the pointers Jim. Does anyone have suggestions for a mast gate? Are they an available stock item from say Dwyer or others? Or is it something one can make up ala MacGyver? Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 On Tue, Aug 31, 2010 at 11:32 AM, Jim Poulakis <picfo@comcast.net> wrote:
Just a few comments on installing jiffy reefing...
- The boom clew hardware should be positioned so the reefing line pulls the sail down and aft when the sail is in the reefed position (about 45 degrees). - When you install cleats on the boom (especially horn cleats) make sure they won't hook up on the shrouds when the boom is all the way out. - It's nice to have a permanent (not thumb screwed) slide stop below the gooseneck so the boom doesn't come clattering to the deck when the halyard is released. I located mine so that the boom rests low enough that all the sail slugs will stack up under the mast gate. - Depending on how you rig your tack, a mast gate may be a godsend. Or not.
Jim M-17 "Spirit"
On Aug 30, 2010, at 9:07 PM, ndorf@surfbest.net wrote:
Daniel, yes it is possible to do both.
My mainsail and boom is setup for jiffy reefing. Here is Judy Blumhorst's web page that shows some photos of how the rigging would be setup (I only have one line, the photo shows two.)
http://www.blumhorst.com/potterpages/potter_19_jiffy_reefing.htm
If you need to reef in a hurry, put the boat in irons, then cinch in the jiffy reefing line, which will raise the boom up at an angle. Then lower the main, cinch in the cunningham or adjust the downhaul accordingly or and tie up the reefing lines on each opposing side of the main to each other under the boom.
I'm not sure this is totally "textbook" but it's how I do it. Better still, if I have any doubt I need to reef, I start out sailing that way and then shake out the reef later if I feel it wasn't needed.
With a little practice it is easy to make the M15 heave to, and I'm still a relative newbie.
On the subject of heaving to and reefing line, M15 sailor Doug Kelch ("Seas the Day") explained it very well in a posting back in 2005. I don't know how to find the link (other than Google) but I'm sure he wouldn't mind my pasting it for you below:
* * * * *
"With the Montgomery boats there should not be a problem heaving to regardless of where the weight is.
Heaving to is somewhat of a balancing act/art form but the basics should work all of the time.
1)cleat off the jib tight to the fairlead, 2)Tack leaving the jib cleated 3) hold the heading head to wind for a few seconds during the tack to take the speed off of the boat. 4) ease the mainsheet so that the boom is a foot or two off of the stern quarter and comlete the tack. 5) push the tiller as far to leward as possible on the new tack and tie it off.
It is critical that the rudder be all the way to leward so that it acts as a brake and lets the boat burn any off any new energy trying to tack back when it has no momentum. The boat will creep forward makeing small attempts to come up to windward but not succeeding due the tiller braking action and the backwinded jib.
My jiffy reefing is set up inboard of the end of the boom just so I can reach the reefing lines while hove to.
Thanks
Doug Kelch"
* * * * *
Doug: Safe travels to the Northwest and Fair Winds!
Neil
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Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
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Bill, Not to worry, I'm pretty sure you already have a mast gate. It's the enlarged opening on the mast where you insert the bolt rope or sail slugs. Skip M-15 1982 Wild Guppy 1982 -----Original Message----- From: Bill Wickett <billwick@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tue, Aug 31, 2010 11:46 am Subject: Re: M_Boats: Reefing while under sail Thanks for the pointers Jim. Does anyone have suggestions for a mast gate? Are they an available stock tem from say Dwyer or others? Or is it something one can make up ala acGyver? Bill Wickett akin' Time M17 On Tue, Aug 31, 2010 at 11:32 AM, Jim Poulakis <picfo@comcast.net> wrote:
Just a few comments on installing jiffy reefing...
- The boom clew hardware should be positioned so the reefing line pulls the sail down and aft when the sail is in the reefed position (about 45 degrees). - When you install cleats on the boom (especially horn cleats) make sure they won't hook up on the shrouds when the boom is all the way out. - It's nice to have a permanent (not thumb screwed) slide stop below the gooseneck so the boom doesn't come clattering to the deck when the halyard is released. I located mine so that the boom rests low enough that all the sail slugs will stack up under the mast gate. - Depending on how you rig your tack, a mast gate may be a godsend. Or not. Jim M-17 "Spirit" On Aug 30, 2010, at 9:07 PM, ndorf@surfbest.net wrote: Daniel, yes it is possible to do both.
My mainsail and boom is setup for jiffy reefing. Here is Judy Blumhorst's web page that shows some photos of how the rigging would be setup (I only have one line, the photo shows two.)
http://www.blumhorst.com/potterpages/potter_19_jiffy_reefing.htm
If you need to reef in a hurry, put the boat in irons, then cinch in the jiffy reefing line, which will raise the boom up at an angle. Then lower the main, cinch in the cunningham or adjust the downhaul accordingly or and tie up the reefing lines on each opposing side of the main to each other under the boom.
I'm not sure this is totally "textbook" but it's how I do it. Better still, if I have any doubt I need to reef, I start out sailing that way and then shake out the reef later if I feel it wasn't needed.
With a little practice it is easy to make the M15 heave to, and I'm still a relative newbie.
On the subject of heaving to and reefing line, M15 sailor Doug Kelch ("Seas the Day") explained it very well in a posting back in 2005. I don't know how to find the link (other than Google) but I'm sure he wouldn't mind my pasting it for you below:
* * * * *
"With the Montgomery boats there should not be a problem heaving to regardless of where the weight is.
Heaving to is somewhat of a balancing act/art form but the basics should work all of the time.
1)cleat off the jib tight to the fairlead, 2)Tack leaving the jib cleated 3) hold the heading head to wind for a few seconds during the tack to take the speed off of the boat. 4) ease the mainsheet so that the boom is a foot or two off of the stern quarter and comlete the tack. 5) push the tiller as far to leward as possible on the new tack and tie it off.
It is critical that the rudder be all the way to leward so that it acts as a brake and lets the boat burn any off any new energy trying to tack back when it has no momentum. The boat will creep forward makeing small attempts to come up to windward but not succeeding due the tiller braking action and the backwinded jib.
My jiffy reefing is set up inboard of the end of the boom just so I can reach the reefing lines while hove to.
Thanks
Doug Kelch"
* * * * *
Doug: Safe travels to the Northwest and Fair Winds!
Neil
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Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! ______________________________________________ ttp://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
I contacted Dwyer and they said they did not have a mast gate. They said they had no plans of making any either. I ended up going to a metal fabricator who made one for me. It works like a charm and the process of raising and lowering the main is hassle free now. I'll take some pictures of it if anyone is interested. The fabricator said he would be willing to make these if anyone was interested. I'm sitting here on the outer banks of NC trying to decide what to do with Seafrog with Hurricane Earl knocking on the door. Joe M17 Seafrog. ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Wickett To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2010 11:46 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Reefing while under sail Thanks for the pointers Jim. Does anyone have suggestions for a mast gate? Are they an available stock item from say Dwyer or others? Or is it something one can make up ala MacGyver? Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 On Tue, Aug 31, 2010 at 11:32 AM, Jim Poulakis <picfo@comcast.net> wrote:
Just a few comments on installing jiffy reefing...
- The boom clew hardware should be positioned so the reefing line pulls the sail down and aft when the sail is in the reefed position (about 45 degrees). - When you install cleats on the boom (especially horn cleats) make sure they won't hook up on the shrouds when the boom is all the way out. - It's nice to have a permanent (not thumb screwed) slide stop below the gooseneck so the boom doesn't come clattering to the deck when the halyard is released. I located mine so that the boom rests low enough that all the sail slugs will stack up under the mast gate. - Depending on how you rig your tack, a mast gate may be a godsend. Or not.
Jim M-17 "Spirit"
On Aug 30, 2010, at 9:07 PM, ndorf@surfbest.net wrote:
Daniel, yes it is possible to do both.
My mainsail and boom is setup for jiffy reefing. Here is Judy Blumhorst's web page that shows some photos of how the rigging would be setup (I only have one line, the photo shows two.)
http://www.blumhorst.com/potterpages/potter_19_jiffy_reefing.htm
If you need to reef in a hurry, put the boat in irons, then cinch in the jiffy reefing line, which will raise the boom up at an angle. Then lower the main, cinch in the cunningham or adjust the downhaul accordingly or and tie up the reefing lines on each opposing side of the main to each other under the boom.
I'm not sure this is totally "textbook" but it's how I do it. Better still, if I have any doubt I need to reef, I start out sailing that way and then shake out the reef later if I feel it wasn't needed.
With a little practice it is easy to make the M15 heave to, and I'm still a relative newbie.
On the subject of heaving to and reefing line, M15 sailor Doug Kelch ("Seas the Day") explained it very well in a posting back in 2005. I don't know how to find the link (other than Google) but I'm sure he wouldn't mind my pasting it for you below:
* * * * *
"With the Montgomery boats there should not be a problem heaving to regardless of where the weight is.
Heaving to is somewhat of a balancing act/art form but the basics should work all of the time.
1)cleat off the jib tight to the fairlead, 2)Tack leaving the jib cleated 3) hold the heading head to wind for a few seconds during the tack to take the speed off of the boat. 4) ease the mainsheet so that the boom is a foot or two off of the stern quarter and comlete the tack. 5) push the tiller as far to leward as possible on the new tack and tie it off.
It is critical that the rudder be all the way to leward so that it acts as a brake and lets the boat burn any off any new energy trying to tack back when it has no momentum. The boat will creep forward makeing small attempts to come up to windward but not succeeding due the tiller braking action and the backwinded jib.
My jiffy reefing is set up inboard of the end of the boom just so I can reach the reefing lines while hove to.
Thanks
Doug Kelch"
* * * * *
Doug: Safe travels to the Northwest and Fair Winds!
Neil
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_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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Joe...I would be interested in your pictures and the number of the company that built it for you. Thx...Tony Reed Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry -----Original Message----- From: "Joe Murphy" <seagray@embarqmail.com> Sender: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 11:58:11 To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats<montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Reply-To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Reefing while under sail I contacted Dwyer and they said they did not have a mast gate. They said they had no plans of making any either. I ended up going to a metal fabricator who made one for me. It works like a charm and the process of raising and lowering the main is hassle free now. I'll take some pictures of it if anyone is interested. The fabricator said he would be willing to make these if anyone was interested. I'm sitting here on the outer banks of NC trying to decide what to do with Seafrog with Hurricane Earl knocking on the door. Joe M17 Seafrog. ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Wickett To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2010 11:46 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Reefing while under sail Thanks for the pointers Jim. Does anyone have suggestions for a mast gate? Are they an available stock item from say Dwyer or others? Or is it something one can make up ala MacGyver? Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 On Tue, Aug 31, 2010 at 11:32 AM, Jim Poulakis <picfo@comcast.net> wrote:
Just a few comments on installing jiffy reefing...
- The boom clew hardware should be positioned so the reefing line pulls the sail down and aft when the sail is in the reefed position (about 45 degrees). - When you install cleats on the boom (especially horn cleats) make sure they won't hook up on the shrouds when the boom is all the way out. - It's nice to have a permanent (not thumb screwed) slide stop below the gooseneck so the boom doesn't come clattering to the deck when the halyard is released. I located mine so that the boom rests low enough that all the sail slugs will stack up under the mast gate. - Depending on how you rig your tack, a mast gate may be a godsend. Or not.
Jim M-17 "Spirit"
On Aug 30, 2010, at 9:07 PM, ndorf@surfbest.net wrote:
Daniel, yes it is possible to do both.
My mainsail and boom is setup for jiffy reefing. Here is Judy Blumhorst's web page that shows some photos of how the rigging would be setup (I only have one line, the photo shows two.)
http://www.blumhorst.com/potterpages/potter_19_jiffy_reefing.htm
If you need to reef in a hurry, put the boat in irons, then cinch in the jiffy reefing line, which will raise the boom up at an angle. Then lower the main, cinch in the cunningham or adjust the downhaul accordingly or and tie up the reefing lines on each opposing side of the main to each other under the boom.
I'm not sure this is totally "textbook" but it's how I do it. Better still, if I have any doubt I need to reef, I start out sailing that way and then shake out the reef later if I feel it wasn't needed.
With a little practice it is easy to make the M15 heave to, and I'm still a relative newbie.
On the subject of heaving to and reefing line, M15 sailor Doug Kelch ("Seas the Day") explained it very well in a posting back in 2005. I don't know how to find the link (other than Google) but I'm sure he wouldn't mind my pasting it for you below:
* * * * *
"With the Montgomery boats there should not be a problem heaving to regardless of where the weight is.
Heaving to is somewhat of a balancing act/art form but the basics should work all of the time.
1)cleat off the jib tight to the fairlead, 2)Tack leaving the jib cleated 3) hold the heading head to wind for a few seconds during the tack to take the speed off of the boat. 4) ease the mainsheet so that the boom is a foot or two off of the stern quarter and comlete the tack. 5) push the tiller as far to leward as possible on the new tack and tie it off.
It is critical that the rudder be all the way to leward so that it acts as a brake and lets the boat burn any off any new energy trying to tack back when it has no momentum. The boat will creep forward makeing small attempts to come up to windward but not succeeding due the tiller braking action and the backwinded jib.
My jiffy reefing is set up inboard of the end of the boom just so I can reach the reefing lines while hove to.
Thanks
Doug Kelch"
* * * * *
Doug: Safe travels to the Northwest and Fair Winds!
Neil
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Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
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Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
Will do. Dwyer was nice enough to send me a cross section of the mast that I took to the fabricator. He made a two piece alluminum gate that he welded into one piece. Works great. I have it attached to the mast with two 1/4" nylon screws and when necessary I simply loosen the screws and slide the mast gate forward to open the slot. Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: tonyreed219@gmail.com To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2010 12:09 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Reefing while under sail Joe...I would be interested in your pictures and the number of the company that built it for you. Thx...Tony Reed Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry -----Original Message----- From: "Joe Murphy" <seagray@embarqmail.com> Sender: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 11:58:11 To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats<montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Reply-To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Reefing while under sail I contacted Dwyer and they said they did not have a mast gate. They said they had no plans of making any either. I ended up going to a metal fabricator who made one for me. It works like a charm and the process of raising and lowering the main is hassle free now. I'll take some pictures of it if anyone is interested. The fabricator said he would be willing to make these if anyone was interested. I'm sitting here on the outer banks of NC trying to decide what to do with Seafrog with Hurricane Earl knocking on the door. Joe M17 Seafrog. ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Wickett To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2010 11:46 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Reefing while under sail Thanks for the pointers Jim. Does anyone have suggestions for a mast gate? Are they an available stock item from say Dwyer or others? Or is it something one can make up ala MacGyver? Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 On Tue, Aug 31, 2010 at 11:32 AM, Jim Poulakis <picfo@comcast.net> wrote: > Just a few comments on installing jiffy reefing... > > - The boom clew hardware should be positioned so the reefing line pulls the > sail down and aft when the sail is in the reefed position (about 45 > degrees). > - When you install cleats on the boom (especially horn cleats) make sure > they won't hook up on the shrouds when the boom is all the way out. > - It's nice to have a permanent (not thumb screwed) slide stop below the > gooseneck so the boom doesn't come clattering to the deck when the halyard > is released. I located mine so that the boom rests low enough that all the > sail slugs will stack up under the mast gate. > - Depending on how you rig your tack, a mast gate may be a godsend. Or > not. > > Jim > M-17 "Spirit" > > On Aug 30, 2010, at 9:07 PM, ndorf@surfbest.net wrote: > > Daniel, yes it is possible to do both. >> >> My mainsail and boom is setup for jiffy reefing. Here is Judy >> Blumhorst's web page that shows some photos of how the rigging would >> be setup (I only have one line, the photo shows two.) >> >> http://www.blumhorst.com/potterpages/potter_19_jiffy_reefing.htm >> >> If you need to reef in a hurry, put the boat in irons, then cinch in >> the jiffy reefing line, which will raise the boom up at an angle. >> Then lower the main, cinch in the cunningham or adjust the downhaul >> accordingly or and tie up the reefing lines on each opposing side of >> the main to each other under the boom. >> >> I'm not sure this is totally "textbook" but it's how I do it. Better >> still, if I have any doubt I need to reef, I start out sailing that >> way and then shake out the reef later if I feel it wasn't needed. >> >> With a little practice it is easy to make the M15 heave to, and I'm >> still a relative newbie. >> >> On the subject of heaving to and reefing line, M15 sailor Doug Kelch >> ("Seas the Day") explained it very well in a posting back in 2005. I >> don't know how to find the link (other than Google) but I'm sure he >> wouldn't mind my pasting it for you below: >> >> * * * * * >> >> "With the Montgomery boats there should not be a >> problem heaving to regardless of where the weight is. >> >> Heaving to is somewhat of a balancing act/art form but >> the basics should work all of the time. >> >> 1)cleat off the jib tight to the fairlead, >> 2)Tack leaving the jib cleated >> 3) hold the heading head to wind for a few seconds >> during the tack to take the speed off of the boat. >> 4) ease the mainsheet so that the boom is a foot or >> two off of the stern quarter and comlete the tack. >> 5) push the tiller as far to leward as possible on the >> new tack and tie it off. >> >> >> It is critical that the rudder be all the way to >> leward so that it acts as a brake and lets the boat >> burn any off any new energy trying to tack back when >> it has no momentum. The boat will creep forward >> makeing small attempts to come up to windward but not >> succeeding due the tiller braking action and the >> backwinded jib. >> >> My jiffy reefing is set up inboard of the end of the >> boom just so I can reach the reefing lines while hove >> to. >> >> Thanks >> >> Doug Kelch" >> >> * * * * * >> >> Doug: Safe travels to the Northwest and Fair Winds! >> >> Neil >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats >> >> Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! >> > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! > _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
The name of the company is T&J Fabrication in Newport NC. Talk to Todd Hansen 252-726-2866. If you mention my name I'm sure he'll remember. I doubt he has any measurements so if needed, I can take my gate back to him to duplicate. Let me get some pictures of it for you first so you can decide if this is the type of solution that you're looking for. Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: tonyreed219@gmail.com To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2010 12:09 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Reefing while under sail Joe...I would be interested in your pictures and the number of the company that built it for you. Thx...Tony Reed Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry -----Original Message----- From: "Joe Murphy" <seagray@embarqmail.com> Sender: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 11:58:11 To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats<montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Reply-To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Reefing while under sail I contacted Dwyer and they said they did not have a mast gate. They said they had no plans of making any either. I ended up going to a metal fabricator who made one for me. It works like a charm and the process of raising and lowering the main is hassle free now. I'll take some pictures of it if anyone is interested. The fabricator said he would be willing to make these if anyone was interested. I'm sitting here on the outer banks of NC trying to decide what to do with Seafrog with Hurricane Earl knocking on the door. Joe M17 Seafrog. ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Wickett To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2010 11:46 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Reefing while under sail Thanks for the pointers Jim. Does anyone have suggestions for a mast gate? Are they an available stock item from say Dwyer or others? Or is it something one can make up ala MacGyver? Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 On Tue, Aug 31, 2010 at 11:32 AM, Jim Poulakis <picfo@comcast.net> wrote: > Just a few comments on installing jiffy reefing... > > - The boom clew hardware should be positioned so the reefing line pulls the > sail down and aft when the sail is in the reefed position (about 45 > degrees). > - When you install cleats on the boom (especially horn cleats) make sure > they won't hook up on the shrouds when the boom is all the way out. > - It's nice to have a permanent (not thumb screwed) slide stop below the > gooseneck so the boom doesn't come clattering to the deck when the halyard > is released. I located mine so that the boom rests low enough that all the > sail slugs will stack up under the mast gate. > - Depending on how you rig your tack, a mast gate may be a godsend. Or > not. > > Jim > M-17 "Spirit" > > On Aug 30, 2010, at 9:07 PM, ndorf@surfbest.net wrote: > > Daniel, yes it is possible to do both. >> >> My mainsail and boom is setup for jiffy reefing. Here is Judy >> Blumhorst's web page that shows some photos of how the rigging would >> be setup (I only have one line, the photo shows two.) >> >> http://www.blumhorst.com/potterpages/potter_19_jiffy_reefing.htm >> >> If you need to reef in a hurry, put the boat in irons, then cinch in >> the jiffy reefing line, which will raise the boom up at an angle. >> Then lower the main, cinch in the cunningham or adjust the downhaul >> accordingly or and tie up the reefing lines on each opposing side of >> the main to each other under the boom. >> >> I'm not sure this is totally "textbook" but it's how I do it. Better >> still, if I have any doubt I need to reef, I start out sailing that >> way and then shake out the reef later if I feel it wasn't needed. >> >> With a little practice it is easy to make the M15 heave to, and I'm >> still a relative newbie. >> >> On the subject of heaving to and reefing line, M15 sailor Doug Kelch >> ("Seas the Day") explained it very well in a posting back in 2005. I >> don't know how to find the link (other than Google) but I'm sure he >> wouldn't mind my pasting it for you below: >> >> * * * * * >> >> "With the Montgomery boats there should not be a >> problem heaving to regardless of where the weight is. >> >> Heaving to is somewhat of a balancing act/art form but >> the basics should work all of the time. >> >> 1)cleat off the jib tight to the fairlead, >> 2)Tack leaving the jib cleated >> 3) hold the heading head to wind for a few seconds >> during the tack to take the speed off of the boat. >> 4) ease the mainsheet so that the boom is a foot or >> two off of the stern quarter and comlete the tack. >> 5) push the tiller as far to leward as possible on the >> new tack and tie it off. >> >> >> It is critical that the rudder be all the way to >> leward so that it acts as a brake and lets the boat >> burn any off any new energy trying to tack back when >> it has no momentum. The boat will creep forward >> makeing small attempts to come up to windward but not >> succeeding due the tiller braking action and the >> backwinded jib. >> >> My jiffy reefing is set up inboard of the end of the >> boom just so I can reach the reefing lines while hove >> to. >> >> Thanks >> >> Doug Kelch" >> >> * * * * * >> >> Doug: Safe travels to the Northwest and Fair Winds! >> >> Neil >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats >> >> Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! >> > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! > _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
Joe, I would be interested in seeing pictures of this. Maybe you could just post on the MSOG site for all to see instead of of emailing to many. Bill Wickett On Tue, Aug 31, 2010 at 12:52 PM, Joe Murphy <seagray@embarqmail.com> wrote:
The name of the company is T&J Fabrication in Newport NC. Talk to Todd Hansen 252-726-2866. If you mention my name I'm sure he'll remember. I doubt he has any measurements so if needed, I can take my gate back to him to duplicate. Let me get some pictures of it for you first so you can decide if this is the type of solution that you're looking for. Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: tonyreed219@gmail.com To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2010 12:09 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Reefing while under sail
Joe...I would be interested in your pictures and the number of the company that built it for you. Thx...Tony Reed Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
-----Original Message----- From: "Joe Murphy" <seagray@embarqmail.com> Sender: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 11:58:11 To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats< montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Reply-To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Reefing while under sail
I contacted Dwyer and they said they did not have a mast gate. They said they had no plans of making any either. I ended up going to a metal fabricator who made one for me. It works like a charm and the process of raising and lowering the main is hassle free now. I'll take some pictures of it if anyone is interested. The fabricator said he would be willing to make these if anyone was interested. I'm sitting here on the outer banks of NC trying to decide what to do with Seafrog with Hurricane Earl knocking on the door. Joe M17 Seafrog. ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Wickett To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2010 11:46 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Reefing while under sail
Thanks for the pointers Jim.
Does anyone have suggestions for a mast gate? Are they an available stock item from say Dwyer or others? Or is it something one can make up ala MacGyver?
Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17
On Tue, Aug 31, 2010 at 11:32 AM, Jim Poulakis <picfo@comcast.net> wrote:
Just a few comments on installing jiffy reefing...
- The boom clew hardware should be positioned so the reefing line pulls the sail down and aft when the sail is in the reefed position (about 45 degrees). - When you install cleats on the boom (especially horn cleats) make sure they won't hook up on the shrouds when the boom is all the way out. - It's nice to have a permanent (not thumb screwed) slide stop below the gooseneck so the boom doesn't come clattering to the deck when the halyard is released. I located mine so that the boom rests low enough that all the sail slugs will stack up under the mast gate. - Depending on how you rig your tack, a mast gate may be a godsend. Or not.
Jim M-17 "Spirit"
On Aug 30, 2010, at 9:07 PM, ndorf@surfbest.net wrote:
Daniel, yes it is possible to do both.
My mainsail and boom is setup for jiffy reefing. Here is Judy Blumhorst's web page that shows some photos of how the rigging would be setup (I only have one line, the photo shows two.)
http://www.blumhorst.com/potterpages/potter_19_jiffy_reefing.htm
If you need to reef in a hurry, put the boat in irons, then cinch in the jiffy reefing line, which will raise the boom up at an angle. Then lower the main, cinch in the cunningham or adjust the downhaul accordingly or and tie up the reefing lines on each opposing side of the main to each other under the boom.
I'm not sure this is totally "textbook" but it's how I do it. Better still, if I have any doubt I need to reef, I start out sailing that way and then shake out the reef later if I feel it wasn't needed.
With a little practice it is easy to make the M15 heave to, and I'm still a relative newbie.
On the subject of heaving to and reefing line, M15 sailor Doug Kelch ("Seas the Day") explained it very well in a posting back in 2005. I don't know how to find the link (other than Google) but I'm sure he wouldn't mind my pasting it for you below:
* * * * *
"With the Montgomery boats there should not be a problem heaving to regardless of where the weight is.
Heaving to is somewhat of a balancing act/art form but the basics should work all of the time.
1)cleat off the jib tight to the fairlead, 2)Tack leaving the jib cleated 3) hold the heading head to wind for a few seconds during the tack to take the speed off of the boat. 4) ease the mainsheet so that the boom is a foot or two off of the stern quarter and comlete the tack. 5) push the tiller as far to leward as possible on the new tack and tie it off.
It is critical that the rudder be all the way to leward so that it acts as a brake and lets the boat burn any off any new energy trying to tack back when it has no momentum. The boat will creep forward makeing small attempts to come up to windward but not succeeding due the tiller braking action and the backwinded jib.
My jiffy reefing is set up inboard of the end of the boom just so I can reach the reefing lines while hove to.
Thanks
Doug Kelch"
* * * * *
Doug: Safe travels to the Northwest and Fair Winds!
Neil
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Some of you have asked for photos on the mast gate I had made for me. You can check it out at http://sailseafrog.blogspot.com/ Joe M17 Seafrog ps for those of you new to this sight you can also see the construction of the M17
Hi there M-boaters, happy Labor day to all. We are fall cleaning and I would like to give away my old issues of Small Craft Advisor. I have issues 1-18 quite a few in the 20's, 30's and 40's. Not all are there due to back ordering and my inability to organize. A few have some light water damage. Anyway, if you are willing to pay shipping I will send them on. Unless shipping is not much then we will not worry about it. Please let me know off list. BTW if you have some time to kill you can see my work on my 23 restoration at http://picasaweb.google.com/110938325409185510143/M23?authkey=Gv1sRgCJqUgPz3.... I keep adding pictures as the work goes on. Robbin M-10, M-23 and two cats in the yard
Robbin... Not sure what the true definition of blood brothers is, but somehow I feel like that may be us! One tip/trick I found out the hard way. Stainless steel rod tolerates being pounded on its end pretty well, but it is pretty brittle. Pounding it the direction you will have to to drive the board "down" it may or may not tolerate without shattering. In my case, the pivot and stop pins I removed from the keel were bronze....I gave them a second mission in life and used them in the hole in the keel to pound on, after I shattered a stainless rod and about took my eye out. The bronze rod was softer and deformed with the hammer blows but did not break. After that job the pivot pin was given a third job in life which it continues to do to this day.....I am sitting here looking at it act as a paperweight and a reminder of all the "fun" times right here on my desk! keep the faith brother! S
Sean, yes it is gratifying to walk part of the road that you paved with Dauntless. Thanks so much for the advice. I have some brass rod that I bought to replace the current "pins". Maybe that will work better. The current pins seem to be some sort of steel. I verified that during my drill the pin out phase. What does bronze look like in a pivot pin? In your photos your pins kinda look like steel. I don't think it appropriate to go into too much detail on this family oriented forum but I nearly took out my shoulder during the 'hit it harder' phase of pounding out (or more appropriately pounding on) the pivot pin. With a steel rod 'firmly' wedged into the shallow hole and my new ten pound long handled sledge I gave it a John Henry like blow that sent the steel rod ricocheting like shrapnel from a grenade. Right into my shoulder. Left a serious gouge that had it been a foot over toward my head would have been harder to laugh off! So I am very interested in avoiding steel rods shattering. Very interested. Thanks again. Robbin On 9/6/2010 10:52 PM, M23 "Daunltess" wrote:
Robbin...
Not sure what the true definition of blood brothers is, but somehow I feel like that may be us!
One tip/trick I found out the hard way. Stainless steel rod tolerates being pounded on its end pretty well, but it is pretty brittle. Pounding it the direction you will have to to drive the board "down" it may or may not tolerate without shattering. In my case, the pivot and stop pins I removed from the keel were bronze....I gave them a second mission in life and used them in the hole in the keel to pound on, after I shattered a stainless rod and about took my eye out. The bronze rod was softer and deformed with the hammer blows but did not break. After that job the pivot pin was given a third job in life which it continues to do to this day.....I am sitting here looking at it act as a paperweight and a reminder of all the "fun" times right here on my desk!
keep the faith brother!
S _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
Robbin- I wouldn't use brass rod in salt water because it will break down. The zinc will break down. Brass is m,ade of copper and zinc. Bronze or monel is fine. jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "robbin roddewig" <robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 4:05 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: SCA give aways
Sean, yes it is gratifying to walk part of the road that you paved with Dauntless. Thanks so much for the advice. I have some brass rod that I bought to replace the current "pins". Maybe that will work better. The current pins seem to be some sort of steel. I verified that during my drill the pin out phase. What does bronze look like in a pivot pin? In your photos your pins kinda look like steel. I don't think it appropriate to go into too much detail on this family oriented forum but I nearly took out my shoulder during the 'hit it harder' phase of pounding out (or more appropriately pounding on) the pivot pin. With a steel rod 'firmly' wedged into the shallow hole and my new ten pound long handled sledge I gave it a John Henry like blow that sent the steel rod ricocheting like shrapnel from a grenade. Right into my shoulder. Left a serious gouge that had it been a foot over toward my head would have been harder to laugh off! So I am very interested in avoiding steel rods shattering. Very interested. Thanks again.
Robbin
On 9/6/2010 10:52 PM, M23 "Daunltess" wrote:
Robbin...
Not sure what the true definition of blood brothers is, but somehow I feel like that may be us!
One tip/trick I found out the hard way. Stainless steel rod tolerates being pounded on its end pretty well, but it is pretty brittle. Pounding it the direction you will have to to drive the board "down" it may or may not tolerate without shattering. In my case, the pivot and stop pins I removed from the keel were bronze....I gave them a second mission in life and used them in the hole in the keel to pound on, after I shattered a stainless rod and about took my eye out. The bronze rod was softer and deformed with the hammer blows but did not break. After that job the pivot pin was given a third job in life which it continues to do to this day.....I am sitting here looking at it act as a paperweight and a reminder of all the "fun" times right here on my desk!
keep the faith brother!
S _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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-- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 2022 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message
Thank you Jerry! I must have heard Bronze at some point and ordered Brass! I will order Bronze or Monel. Robbin On 9/7/2010 8:17 AM, jerry wrote:
Robbin- I wouldn't use brass rod in salt water because it will break down. The zinc will break down. Brass is m,ade of copper and zinc.
Bronze or monel is fine.
jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "robbin roddewig" <robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 4:05 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: SCA give aways
Sean, yes it is gratifying to walk part of the road that you paved with Dauntless. Thanks so much for the advice. I have some brass rod that I bought to replace the current "pins". Maybe that will work better. The current pins seem to be some sort of steel. I verified that during my drill the pin out phase. What does bronze look like in a pivot pin? In your photos your pins kinda look like steel. I don't think it appropriate to go into too much detail on this family oriented forum but I nearly took out my shoulder during the 'hit it harder' phase of pounding out (or more appropriately pounding on) the pivot pin. With a steel rod 'firmly' wedged into the shallow hole and my new ten pound long handled sledge I gave it a John Henry like blow that sent the steel rod ricocheting like shrapnel from a grenade. Right into my shoulder. Left a serious gouge that had it been a foot over toward my head would have been harder to laugh off! So I am very interested in avoiding steel rods shattering. Very interested. Thanks again.
Robbin
On 9/6/2010 10:52 PM, M23 "Daunltess" wrote:
Robbin...
Not sure what the true definition of blood brothers is, but somehow I feel like that may be us!
One tip/trick I found out the hard way. Stainless steel rod tolerates being pounded on its end pretty well, but it is pretty brittle. Pounding it the direction you will have to to drive the board "down" it may or may not tolerate without shattering. In my case, the pivot and stop pins I removed from the keel were bronze....I gave them a second mission in life and used them in the hole in the keel to pound on, after I shattered a stainless rod and about took my eye out. The bronze rod was softer and deformed with the hammer blows but did not break. After that job the pivot pin was given a third job in life which it continues to do to this day.....I am sitting here looking at it act as a paperweight and a reminder of all the "fun" times right here on my desk!
keep the faith brother!
S _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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Jerry, hope you might be able to offer advice on one more point. At one point on the phone with Bob Eeg he had mentioned making the pivot pin diameter bigger. Since I am ordering new material what do you think about the benefit for something like a 3/4" rod vs. the current 1/2". I would have the enlarge the hole in the fiberglass and board but the board is trivial. Would it be worth it? Would I mess up the integrity of the section through the keel by drilling out to 3/4 diam? Robbin On 9/7/2010 8:17 AM, jerry wrote:
Robbin- I wouldn't use brass rod in salt water because it will break down. The zinc will break down. Brass is m,ade of copper and zinc.
Bronze or monel is fine.
jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "robbin roddewig" <robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 4:05 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: SCA give aways
Sean, yes it is gratifying to walk part of the road that you paved with Dauntless. Thanks so much for the advice. I have some brass rod that I bought to replace the current "pins". Maybe that will work better. The current pins seem to be some sort of steel. I verified that during my drill the pin out phase. What does bronze look like in a pivot pin? In your photos your pins kinda look like steel. I don't think it appropriate to go into too much detail on this family oriented forum but I nearly took out my shoulder during the 'hit it harder' phase of pounding out (or more appropriately pounding on) the pivot pin. With a steel rod 'firmly' wedged into the shallow hole and my new ten pound long handled sledge I gave it a John Henry like blow that sent the steel rod ricocheting like shrapnel from a grenade. Right into my shoulder. Left a serious gouge that had it been a foot over toward my head would have been harder to laugh off! So I am very interested in avoiding steel rods shattering. Very interested. Thanks again.
Robbin
On 9/6/2010 10:52 PM, M23 "Daunltess" wrote:
Robbin...
Not sure what the true definition of blood brothers is, but somehow I feel like that may be us!
One tip/trick I found out the hard way. Stainless steel rod tolerates being pounded on its end pretty well, but it is pretty brittle. Pounding it the direction you will have to to drive the board "down" it may or may not tolerate without shattering. In my case, the pivot and stop pins I removed from the keel were bronze....I gave them a second mission in life and used them in the hole in the keel to pound on, after I shattered a stainless rod and about took my eye out. The bronze rod was softer and deformed with the hammer blows but did not break. After that job the pivot pin was given a third job in life which it continues to do to this day.....I am sitting here looking at it act as a paperweight and a reminder of all the "fun" times right here on my desk!
keep the faith brother!
S _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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-- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 2022 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len
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Robbin.....the reason I think you should go a bit higher in diameter is to clean up the hole after you mentioned your saga removing the frozen pin. I think going to 3/4 inch would be best. Bob
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 12:20:43 -0400 From: robbin.roddewig@verizon.net To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: SCA give aways
Jerry, hope you might be able to offer advice on one more point. At one point on the phone with Bob Eeg he had mentioned making the pivot pin diameter bigger. Since I am ordering new material what do you think about the benefit for something like a 3/4" rod vs. the current 1/2". I would have the enlarge the hole in the fiberglass and board but the board is trivial. Would it be worth it? Would I mess up the integrity of the section through the keel by drilling out to 3/4 diam?
Robbin
On 9/7/2010 8:17 AM, jerry wrote:
Robbin- I wouldn't use brass rod in salt water because it will break down. The zinc will break down. Brass is m,ade of copper and zinc.
Bronze or monel is fine.
jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "robbin roddewig" <robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 4:05 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: SCA give aways
Sean, yes it is gratifying to walk part of the road that you paved with Dauntless. Thanks so much for the advice. I have some brass rod that I bought to replace the current "pins". Maybe that will work better. The current pins seem to be some sort of steel. I verified that during my drill the pin out phase. What does bronze look like in a pivot pin? In your photos your pins kinda look like steel. I don't think it appropriate to go into too much detail on this family oriented forum but I nearly took out my shoulder during the 'hit it harder' phase of pounding out (or more appropriately pounding on) the pivot pin. With a steel rod 'firmly' wedged into the shallow hole and my new ten pound long handled sledge I gave it a John Henry like blow that sent the steel rod ricocheting like shrapnel from a grenade. Right into my shoulder. Left a serious gouge that had it been a foot over toward my head would have been harder to laugh off! So I am very interested in avoiding steel rods shattering. Very interested. Thanks again.
Robbin
On 9/6/2010 10:52 PM, M23 "Daunltess" wrote:
Robbin...
Not sure what the true definition of blood brothers is, but somehow I feel like that may be us!
One tip/trick I found out the hard way. Stainless steel rod tolerates being pounded on its end pretty well, but it is pretty brittle. Pounding it the direction you will have to to drive the board "down" it may or may not tolerate without shattering. In my case, the pivot and stop pins I removed from the keel were bronze....I gave them a second mission in life and used them in the hole in the keel to pound on, after I shattered a stainless rod and about took my eye out. The bronze rod was softer and deformed with the hammer blows but did not break. After that job the pivot pin was given a third job in life which it continues to do to this day.....I am sitting here looking at it act as a paperweight and a reminder of all the "fun" times right here on my desk!
keep the faith brother!
S _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
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Thanks Bob, did not mean to exclude you from the conversation! So there is no worries about removing too much of the existing fiberglass area that the rod is going through in each side of the keel? Robbin On 9/7/2010 1:43 PM, Bob From California wrote:
Robbin.....the reason I think you should go a bit higher in diameter is to clean up the hole after you mentioned your saga removing the frozen pin. I think going to 3/4 inch would be best.
Bob
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 12:20:43 -0400 From: robbin.roddewig@verizon.net To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: SCA give aways
Jerry, hope you might be able to offer advice on one more point. At one point on the phone with Bob Eeg he had mentioned making the pivot pin diameter bigger. Since I am ordering new material what do you think about the benefit for something like a 3/4" rod vs. the current 1/2". I would have the enlarge the hole in the fiberglass and board but the board is trivial. Would it be worth it? Would I mess up the integrity of the section through the keel by drilling out to 3/4 diam?
Robbin
On 9/7/2010 8:17 AM, jerry wrote:
Robbin- I wouldn't use brass rod in salt water because it will break down. The zinc will break down. Brass is m,ade of copper and zinc.
Bronze or monel is fine.
jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "robbin roddewig" <robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 4:05 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: SCA give aways
Sean, yes it is gratifying to walk part of the road that you paved with Dauntless. Thanks so much for the advice. I have some brass rod that I bought to replace the current "pins". Maybe that will work better. The current pins seem to be some sort of steel. I verified that during my drill the pin out phase. What does bronze look like in a pivot pin? In your photos your pins kinda look like steel. I don't think it appropriate to go into too much detail on this family oriented forum but I nearly took out my shoulder during the 'hit it harder' phase of pounding out (or more appropriately pounding on) the pivot pin. With a steel rod 'firmly' wedged into the shallow hole and my new ten pound long handled sledge I gave it a John Henry like blow that sent the steel rod ricocheting like shrapnel from a grenade. Right into my shoulder. Left a serious gouge that had it been a foot over toward my head would have been harder to laugh off! So I am very interested in avoiding steel rods shattering. Very interested. Thanks again.
Robbin
On 9/6/2010 10:52 PM, M23 "Daunltess" wrote:
Robbin...
Not sure what the true definition of blood brothers is, but somehow I feel like that may be us!
One tip/trick I found out the hard way. Stainless steel rod tolerates being pounded on its end pretty well, but it is pretty brittle. Pounding it the direction you will have to to drive the board "down" it may or may not tolerate without shattering. In my case, the pivot and stop pins I removed from the keel were bronze....I gave them a second mission in life and used them in the hole in the keel to pound on, after I shattered a stainless rod and about took my eye out. The bronze rod was softer and deformed with the hammer blows but did not break. After that job the pivot pin was given a third job in life which it continues to do to this day.....I am sitting here looking at it act as a paperweight and a reminder of all the "fun" times right here on my desk!
keep the faith brother!
S _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
-- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 2022 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len
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_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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I wouldn't worry about an eighth of an inch on each side at all. When you were pounding out the frozen pin and elongating the hole it only makes sense to redrill a CLEAN FRESH higher diameter hole. You want something tight. A new half inch pin in an elongatated hole might move or be too loose in some areas. Bob
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 13:52:54 -0400 From: robbin.roddewig@verizon.net To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: SCA give aways
Thanks Bob, did not mean to exclude you from the conversation! So there is no worries about removing too much of the existing fiberglass area that the rod is going through in each side of the keel?
Robbin
On 9/7/2010 1:43 PM, Bob From California wrote:
Robbin.....the reason I think you should go a bit higher in diameter is to clean up the hole after you mentioned your saga removing the frozen pin. I think going to 3/4 inch would be best.
Bob
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 12:20:43 -0400 From: robbin.roddewig@verizon.net To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: SCA give aways
Jerry, hope you might be able to offer advice on one more point. At one point on the phone with Bob Eeg he had mentioned making the pivot pin diameter bigger. Since I am ordering new material what do you think about the benefit for something like a 3/4" rod vs. the current 1/2". I would have the enlarge the hole in the fiberglass and board but the board is trivial. Would it be worth it? Would I mess up the integrity of the section through the keel by drilling out to 3/4 diam?
Robbin
On 9/7/2010 8:17 AM, jerry wrote:
Robbin- I wouldn't use brass rod in salt water because it will break down. The zinc will break down. Brass is m,ade of copper and zinc.
Bronze or monel is fine.
jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "robbin roddewig" <robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 4:05 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: SCA give aways
Sean, yes it is gratifying to walk part of the road that you paved with Dauntless. Thanks so much for the advice. I have some brass rod that I bought to replace the current "pins". Maybe that will work better. The current pins seem to be some sort of steel. I verified that during my drill the pin out phase. What does bronze look like in a pivot pin? In your photos your pins kinda look like steel. I don't think it appropriate to go into too much detail on this family oriented forum but I nearly took out my shoulder during the 'hit it harder' phase of pounding out (or more appropriately pounding on) the pivot pin. With a steel rod 'firmly' wedged into the shallow hole and my new ten pound long handled sledge I gave it a John Henry like blow that sent the steel rod ricocheting like shrapnel from a grenade. Right into my shoulder. Left a serious gouge that had it been a foot over toward my head would have been harder to laugh off! So I am very interested in avoiding steel rods shattering. Very interested. Thanks again.
Robbin
On 9/6/2010 10:52 PM, M23 "Daunltess" wrote:
Robbin...
Not sure what the true definition of blood brothers is, but somehow I feel like that may be us!
One tip/trick I found out the hard way. Stainless steel rod tolerates being pounded on its end pretty well, but it is pretty brittle. Pounding it the direction you will have to to drive the board "down" it may or may not tolerate without shattering. In my case, the pivot and stop pins I removed from the keel were bronze....I gave them a second mission in life and used them in the hole in the keel to pound on, after I shattered a stainless rod and about took my eye out. The bronze rod was softer and deformed with the hammer blows but did not break. After that job the pivot pin was given a third job in life which it continues to do to this day.....I am sitting here looking at it act as a paperweight and a reminder of all the "fun" times right here on my desk!
keep the faith brother!
S _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
-- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 2022 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len
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Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
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Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
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Great! Thanks so much Bob! I will order 3/4" Silicon Bronze for the new pivot pin. Appreciate all the help from you and Jerry waving me off of the Brass! Robbin On 9/7/2010 2:16 PM, Bob From California wrote:
I wouldn't worry about an eighth of an inch on each side at all. When you were pounding out the frozen pin and elongating the hole it only makes sense to redrill a CLEAN FRESH higher diameter hole. You want something tight. A new half inch pin in an elongatated hole might move or be too loose in some areas.
Bob
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 13:52:54 -0400 From: robbin.roddewig@verizon.net To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: SCA give aways
Thanks Bob, did not mean to exclude you from the conversation! So there is no worries about removing too much of the existing fiberglass area that the rod is going through in each side of the keel?
Robbin
On 9/7/2010 1:43 PM, Bob From California wrote:
Robbin.....the reason I think you should go a bit higher in diameter is to clean up the hole after you mentioned your saga removing the frozen pin. I think going to 3/4 inch would be best.
Bob
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 12:20:43 -0400 From: robbin.roddewig@verizon.net To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: SCA give aways
Jerry, hope you might be able to offer advice on one more point. At one point on the phone with Bob Eeg he had mentioned making the pivot pin diameter bigger. Since I am ordering new material what do you think about the benefit for something like a 3/4" rod vs. the current 1/2". I would have the enlarge the hole in the fiberglass and board but the board is trivial. Would it be worth it? Would I mess up the integrity of the section through the keel by drilling out to 3/4 diam?
Robbin
On 9/7/2010 8:17 AM, jerry wrote:
Robbin- I wouldn't use brass rod in salt water because it will break down. The zinc will break down. Brass is m,ade of copper and zinc.
Bronze or monel is fine.
jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "robbin roddewig" <robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 4:05 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: SCA give aways
Sean, yes it is gratifying to walk part of the road that you paved with Dauntless. Thanks so much for the advice. I have some brass rod that I bought to replace the current "pins". Maybe that will work better. The current pins seem to be some sort of steel. I verified that during my drill the pin out phase. What does bronze look like in a pivot pin? In your photos your pins kinda look like steel. I don't think it appropriate to go into too much detail on this family oriented forum but I nearly took out my shoulder during the 'hit it harder' phase of pounding out (or more appropriately pounding on) the pivot pin. With a steel rod 'firmly' wedged into the shallow hole and my new ten pound long handled sledge I gave it a John Henry like blow that sent the steel rod ricocheting like shrapnel from a grenade. Right into my shoulder. Left a serious gouge that had it been a foot over toward my head would have been harder to laugh off! So I am very interested in avoiding steel rods shattering. Very interested. Thanks again.
Robbin
On 9/6/2010 10:52 PM, M23 "Daunltess" wrote: > Robbin... > > Not sure what the true definition of blood brothers is, but somehow > I feel like that may be us! > > One tip/trick I found out the hard way. Stainless steel rod > tolerates being pounded on its end pretty well, but it is pretty > brittle. Pounding it the direction you will have to to drive the > board "down" it may or may not tolerate without shattering. In my > case, the pivot and stop pins I removed from the keel were > bronze....I gave them a second mission in life and used them in the > hole in the keel to pound on, after I shattered a stainless rod and > about took my eye out. The bronze rod was softer and deformed with > the hammer blows but did not break. After that job the pivot pin > was given a third job in life which it continues to do to this > day.....I am sitting here looking at it act as a paperweight and a > reminder of all the "fun" times right here on my desk! > > keep the faith brother! > > S > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! > _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 2022 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len
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Thanks Bob, did not mean to exclude you from the conversation! So there is no worries about removing too much of the existing fiberglass area that the rod is going through in each side of the keel? Robbin On 9/7/2010 1:43 PM, Bob From California wrote:
Robbin.....the reason I think you should go a bit higher in diameter is to clean up the hole after you mentioned your saga removing the frozen pin. I think going to 3/4 inch would be best.
Bob
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 12:20:43 -0400 From: robbin.roddewig@verizon.net To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: SCA give aways
Jerry, hope you might be able to offer advice on one more point. At one point on the phone with Bob Eeg he had mentioned making the pivot pin diameter bigger. Since I am ordering new material what do you think about the benefit for something like a 3/4" rod vs. the current 1/2". I would have the enlarge the hole in the fiberglass and board but the board is trivial. Would it be worth it? Would I mess up the integrity of the section through the keel by drilling out to 3/4 diam?
Robbin
On 9/7/2010 8:17 AM, jerry wrote:
Robbin- I wouldn't use brass rod in salt water because it will break down. The zinc will break down. Brass is m,ade of copper and zinc.
Bronze or monel is fine.
jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "robbin roddewig" <robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 4:05 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: SCA give aways
Sean, yes it is gratifying to walk part of the road that you paved with Dauntless. Thanks so much for the advice. I have some brass rod that I bought to replace the current "pins". Maybe that will work better. The current pins seem to be some sort of steel. I verified that during my drill the pin out phase. What does bronze look like in a pivot pin? In your photos your pins kinda look like steel. I don't think it appropriate to go into too much detail on this family oriented forum but I nearly took out my shoulder during the 'hit it harder' phase of pounding out (or more appropriately pounding on) the pivot pin. With a steel rod 'firmly' wedged into the shallow hole and my new ten pound long handled sledge I gave it a John Henry like blow that sent the steel rod ricocheting like shrapnel from a grenade. Right into my shoulder. Left a serious gouge that had it been a foot over toward my head would have been harder to laugh off! So I am very interested in avoiding steel rods shattering. Very interested. Thanks again.
Robbin
On 9/6/2010 10:52 PM, M23 "Daunltess" wrote:
Robbin...
Not sure what the true definition of blood brothers is, but somehow I feel like that may be us!
One tip/trick I found out the hard way. Stainless steel rod tolerates being pounded on its end pretty well, but it is pretty brittle. Pounding it the direction you will have to to drive the board "down" it may or may not tolerate without shattering. In my case, the pivot and stop pins I removed from the keel were bronze....I gave them a second mission in life and used them in the hole in the keel to pound on, after I shattered a stainless rod and about took my eye out. The bronze rod was softer and deformed with the hammer blows but did not break. After that job the pivot pin was given a third job in life which it continues to do to this day.....I am sitting here looking at it act as a paperweight and a reminder of all the "fun" times right here on my desk!
keep the faith brother!
S _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
-- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 2022 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len
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Or Plan B. Fill all the holes with fiberglass mat and epoxy, trim flush with a grinder; redrill the 1/2 inch hole. Same solution. Slightly more work. Bob
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 13:52:40 -0400 From: robbin.roddewig@verizon.net To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: SCA give aways
Thanks Bob, did not mean to exclude you from the conversation! So there is no worries about removing too much of the existing fiberglass area that the rod is going through in each side of the keel?
Robbin
On 9/7/2010 1:43 PM, Bob From California wrote:
Robbin.....the reason I think you should go a bit higher in diameter is to clean up the hole after you mentioned your saga removing the frozen pin. I think going to 3/4 inch would be best.
Bob
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 12:20:43 -0400 From: robbin.roddewig@verizon.net To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: SCA give aways
Jerry, hope you might be able to offer advice on one more point. At one point on the phone with Bob Eeg he had mentioned making the pivot pin diameter bigger. Since I am ordering new material what do you think about the benefit for something like a 3/4" rod vs. the current 1/2". I would have the enlarge the hole in the fiberglass and board but the board is trivial. Would it be worth it? Would I mess up the integrity of the section through the keel by drilling out to 3/4 diam?
Robbin
On 9/7/2010 8:17 AM, jerry wrote:
Robbin- I wouldn't use brass rod in salt water because it will break down. The zinc will break down. Brass is m,ade of copper and zinc.
Bronze or monel is fine.
jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "robbin roddewig" <robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 4:05 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: SCA give aways
Sean, yes it is gratifying to walk part of the road that you paved with Dauntless. Thanks so much for the advice. I have some brass rod that I bought to replace the current "pins". Maybe that will work better. The current pins seem to be some sort of steel. I verified that during my drill the pin out phase. What does bronze look like in a pivot pin? In your photos your pins kinda look like steel. I don't think it appropriate to go into too much detail on this family oriented forum but I nearly took out my shoulder during the 'hit it harder' phase of pounding out (or more appropriately pounding on) the pivot pin. With a steel rod 'firmly' wedged into the shallow hole and my new ten pound long handled sledge I gave it a John Henry like blow that sent the steel rod ricocheting like shrapnel from a grenade. Right into my shoulder. Left a serious gouge that had it been a foot over toward my head would have been harder to laugh off! So I am very interested in avoiding steel rods shattering. Very interested. Thanks again.
Robbin
On 9/6/2010 10:52 PM, M23 "Daunltess" wrote:
Robbin...
Not sure what the true definition of blood brothers is, but somehow I feel like that may be us!
One tip/trick I found out the hard way. Stainless steel rod tolerates being pounded on its end pretty well, but it is pretty brittle. Pounding it the direction you will have to to drive the board "down" it may or may not tolerate without shattering. In my case, the pivot and stop pins I removed from the keel were bronze....I gave them a second mission in life and used them in the hole in the keel to pound on, after I shattered a stainless rod and about took my eye out. The bronze rod was softer and deformed with the hammer blows but did not break. After that job the pivot pin was given a third job in life which it continues to do to this day.....I am sitting here looking at it act as a paperweight and a reminder of all the "fun" times right here on my desk!
keep the faith brother!
S _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
-- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 2022 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len
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Is the pin loose? If not, I wouldn't bother enlarging it. If you do, however, there is plenty of glass around that area to enlarge it without worry. jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "robbin roddewig" <robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 9:20 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: SCA give aways
Jerry, hope you might be able to offer advice on one more point. At one point on the phone with Bob Eeg he had mentioned making the pivot pin diameter bigger. Since I am ordering new material what do you think about the benefit for something like a 3/4" rod vs. the current 1/2". I would have the enlarge the hole in the fiberglass and board but the board is trivial. Would it be worth it? Would I mess up the integrity of the section through the keel by drilling out to 3/4 diam?
Robbin
On 9/7/2010 8:17 AM, jerry wrote:
Robbin- I wouldn't use brass rod in salt water because it will break down. The zinc will break down. Brass is m,ade of copper and zinc.
Bronze or monel is fine.
jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "robbin roddewig" <robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 4:05 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: SCA give aways
Sean, yes it is gratifying to walk part of the road that you paved with Dauntless. Thanks so much for the advice. I have some brass rod that I bought to replace the current "pins". Maybe that will work better. The current pins seem to be some sort of steel. I verified that during my drill the pin out phase. What does bronze look like in a pivot pin? In your photos your pins kinda look like steel. I don't think it appropriate to go into too much detail on this family oriented forum but I nearly took out my shoulder during the 'hit it harder' phase of pounding out (or more appropriately pounding on) the pivot pin. With a steel rod 'firmly' wedged into the shallow hole and my new ten pound long handled sledge I gave it a John Henry like blow that sent the steel rod ricocheting like shrapnel from a grenade. Right into my shoulder. Left a serious gouge that had it been a foot over toward my head would have been harder to laugh off! So I am very interested in avoiding steel rods shattering. Very interested. Thanks again.
Robbin
On 9/6/2010 10:52 PM, M23 "Daunltess" wrote:
Robbin...
Not sure what the true definition of blood brothers is, but somehow I feel like that may be us!
One tip/trick I found out the hard way. Stainless steel rod tolerates being pounded on its end pretty well, but it is pretty brittle. Pounding it the direction you will have to to drive the board "down" it may or may not tolerate without shattering. In my case, the pivot and stop pins I removed from the keel were bronze....I gave them a second mission in life and used them in the hole in the keel to pound on, after I shattered a stainless rod and about took my eye out. The bronze rod was softer and deformed with the hammer blows but did not break. After that job the pivot pin was given a third job in life which it continues to do to this day.....I am sitting here looking at it act as a paperweight and a reminder of all the "fun" times right here on my desk!
keep the faith brother!
S _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
-- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 2022 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len
The Professional version does not have this message
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-- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 2037 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message
Hi Robbin, I tried to contact you off line but was unsuccessful. Please contact me at seagray@embarqmail.com regarding the past issues of SCA Thanks, Joe M17 Seafrog ----- Original Message ----- From: robbin roddewig To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 2:33 PM Subject: M_Boats: SCA give aways Hi there M-boaters, happy Labor day to all. We are fall cleaning and I would like to give away my old issues of Small Craft Advisor. I have issues 1-18 quite a few in the 20's, 30's and 40's. Not all are there due to back ordering and my inability to organize. A few have some light water damage. Anyway, if you are willing to pay shipping I will send them on. Unless shipping is not much then we will not worry about it. Please let me know off list. BTW if you have some time to kill you can see my work on my 23 restoration at http://picasaweb.google.com/110938325409185510143/M23?authkey=Gv1sRgCJqUgPz3.... I keep adding pictures as the work goes on. Robbin M-10, M-23 and two cats in the yard _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
Hi Joe, the magazines are spoken for. Thanks! On 9/9/2010 10:18 AM, Joe Murphy wrote:
Hi Robbin, I tried to contact you off line but was unsuccessful. Please contact me at seagray@embarqmail.com regarding the past issues of SCA Thanks, Joe M17 Seafrog ----- Original Message ----- From: robbin roddewig To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 2:33 PM Subject: M_Boats: SCA give aways
Hi there M-boaters, happy Labor day to all. We are fall cleaning and I would like to give away my old issues of Small Craft Advisor. I have issues 1-18 quite a few in the 20's, 30's and 40's. Not all are there due to back ordering and my inability to organize. A few have some light water damage. Anyway, if you are willing to pay shipping I will send them on. Unless shipping is not much then we will not worry about it. Please let me know off list. BTW if you have some time to kill you can see my work on my 23 restoration at http://picasaweb.google.com/110938325409185510143/M23?authkey=Gv1sRgCJqUgPz3.... I keep adding pictures as the work goes on.
Robbin M-10, M-23 and two cats in the yard
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Hi Joe, the magazines are spoken for. Thanks! On 9/9/2010 10:18 AM, Joe Murphy wrote:
Hi Robbin, I tried to contact you off line but was unsuccessful. Please contact me at seagray@embarqmail.com regarding the past issues of SCA Thanks, Joe M17 Seafrog ----- Original Message ----- From: robbin roddewig To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 2:33 PM Subject: M_Boats: SCA give aways
Hi there M-boaters, happy Labor day to all. We are fall cleaning and I would like to give away my old issues of Small Craft Advisor. I have issues 1-18 quite a few in the 20's, 30's and 40's. Not all are there due to back ordering and my inability to organize. A few have some light water damage. Anyway, if you are willing to pay shipping I will send them on. Unless shipping is not much then we will not worry about it. Please let me know off list. BTW if you have some time to kill you can see my work on my 23 restoration at http://picasaweb.google.com/110938325409185510143/M23?authkey=Gv1sRgCJqUgPz3.... I keep adding pictures as the work goes on.
Robbin M-10, M-23 and two cats in the yard
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Very cool idea. I like it. Thanks for sharing. ;-) On Sat, Sep 4, 2010 at 8:13 PM, Joe Murphy <seagray@embarqmail.com> wrote:
Some of you have asked for photos on the mast gate I had made for me. You can check it out at http://sailseafrog.blogspot.com/
Joe M17 Seafrog
ps for those of you new to this sight you can also see the construction of the M17 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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I carved mine out of "starboard" - a marine grade polymer that comes in sheets. Some folks just get a short piece of mast section from the spar maker, then cut and trim to fit. My mast is a Dwyer - they did not make gates for my mast section. Jim M-17-"Spirit" On Aug 31, 2010, at 8:46 AM, Bill Wickett wrote:
Thanks for the pointers Jim.
Does anyone have suggestions for a mast gate? Are they an available stock item from say Dwyer or others? Or is it something one can make up ala MacGyver?
Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17
On Tue, Aug 31, 2010 at 11:32 AM, Jim Poulakis <picfo@comcast.net> wrote:
Just a few comments on installing jiffy reefing...
- The boom clew hardware should be positioned so the reefing line pulls the sail down and aft when the sail is in the reefed position (about 45 degrees). - When you install cleats on the boom (especially horn cleats) make sure they won't hook up on the shrouds when the boom is all the way out. - It's nice to have a permanent (not thumb screwed) slide stop below the gooseneck so the boom doesn't come clattering to the deck when the halyard is released. I located mine so that the boom rests low enough that all the sail slugs will stack up under the mast gate. - Depending on how you rig your tack, a mast gate may be a godsend. Or not.
Jim M-17 "Spirit"
On Aug 30, 2010, at 9:07 PM, ndorf@surfbest.net wrote:
Daniel, yes it is possible to do both.
My mainsail and boom is setup for jiffy reefing. Here is Judy Blumhorst's web page that shows some photos of how the rigging would be setup (I only have one line, the photo shows two.)
http://www.blumhorst.com/potterpages/potter_19_jiffy_reefing.htm
If you need to reef in a hurry, put the boat in irons, then cinch in the jiffy reefing line, which will raise the boom up at an angle. Then lower the main, cinch in the cunningham or adjust the downhaul accordingly or and tie up the reefing lines on each opposing side of the main to each other under the boom.
I'm not sure this is totally "textbook" but it's how I do it. Better still, if I have any doubt I need to reef, I start out sailing that way and then shake out the reef later if I feel it wasn't needed.
With a little practice it is easy to make the M15 heave to, and I'm still a relative newbie.
On the subject of heaving to and reefing line, M15 sailor Doug Kelch ("Seas the Day") explained it very well in a posting back in 2005. I don't know how to find the link (other than Google) but I'm sure he wouldn't mind my pasting it for you below:
* * * * *
"With the Montgomery boats there should not be a problem heaving to regardless of where the weight is.
Heaving to is somewhat of a balancing act/art form but the basics should work all of the time.
1)cleat off the jib tight to the fairlead, 2)Tack leaving the jib cleated 3) hold the heading head to wind for a few seconds during the tack to take the speed off of the boat. 4) ease the mainsheet so that the boom is a foot or two off of the stern quarter and comlete the tack. 5) push the tiller as far to leward as possible on the new tack and tie it off.
It is critical that the rudder be all the way to leward so that it acts as a brake and lets the boat burn any off any new energy trying to tack back when it has no momentum. The boat will creep forward makeing small attempts to come up to windward but not succeeding due the tiller braking action and the backwinded jib.
My jiffy reefing is set up inboard of the end of the boom just so I can reach the reefing lines while hove to.
Thanks
Doug Kelch"
* * * * *
Doug: Safe travels to the Northwest and Fair Winds!
Neil
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Where does one find a permanent slide stop? I have a thumb screw type on my Vagabond. It is really fragile. daniel On 8/31/2010 8:32 AM, Jim Poulakis wrote:
Just a few comments on installing jiffy reefing...
- The boom clew hardware should be positioned so the reefing line pulls the sail down and aft when the sail is in the reefed position (about 45 degrees). - When you install cleats on the boom (especially horn cleats) make sure they won't hook up on the shrouds when the boom is all the way out. - It's nice to have a permanent (not thumb screwed) slide stop below the gooseneck so the boom doesn't come clattering to the deck when the halyard is released. I located mine so that the boom rests low enough that all the sail slugs will stack up under the mast gate. - Depending on how you rig your tack, a mast gate may be a godsend. Or not.
Jim M-17 "Spirit"
On Aug 30, 2010, at 9:07 PM, ndorf@surfbest.net wrote:
Daniel, yes it is possible to do both.
My mainsail and boom is setup for jiffy reefing. Here is Judy Blumhorst's web page that shows some photos of how the rigging would be setup (I only have one line, the photo shows two.)
http://www.blumhorst.com/potterpages/potter_19_jiffy_reefing.htm
If you need to reef in a hurry, put the boat in irons, then cinch in the jiffy reefing line, which will raise the boom up at an angle. Then lower the main, cinch in the cunningham or adjust the downhaul accordingly or and tie up the reefing lines on each opposing side of the main to each other under the boom.
I'm not sure this is totally "textbook" but it's how I do it. Better still, if I have any doubt I need to reef, I start out sailing that way and then shake out the reef later if I feel it wasn't needed.
With a little practice it is easy to make the M15 heave to, and I'm still a relative newbie.
On the subject of heaving to and reefing line, M15 sailor Doug Kelch ("Seas the Day") explained it very well in a posting back in 2005. I don't know how to find the link (other than Google) but I'm sure he wouldn't mind my pasting it for you below:
* * * * *
"With the Montgomery boats there should not be a problem heaving to regardless of where the weight is.
Heaving to is somewhat of a balancing act/art form but the basics should work all of the time.
1)cleat off the jib tight to the fairlead, 2)Tack leaving the jib cleated 3) hold the heading head to wind for a few seconds during the tack to take the speed off of the boat. 4) ease the mainsheet so that the boom is a foot or two off of the stern quarter and comlete the tack. 5) push the tiller as far to leward as possible on the new tack and tie it off.
It is critical that the rudder be all the way to leward so that it acts as a brake and lets the boat burn any off any new energy trying to tack back when it has no momentum. The boat will creep forward makeing small attempts to come up to windward but not succeeding due the tiller braking action and the backwinded jib.
My jiffy reefing is set up inboard of the end of the boom just so I can reach the reefing lines while hove to.
Thanks
Doug Kelch"
* * * * *
Doug: Safe travels to the Northwest and Fair Winds!
Neil
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Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
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In my experience the thumb-screw stops are completely worthless. I gave up looking for an off-the-shelf answer and just built my own. I made a permanent stop out of some thick-walled 6061 aluminum tubing (same alloy as the mast). I fastened the tubing inside the mast "channel" with #10-24 machine screws that went through the mast "lips" "(that form the sail track) and into the tubing. I'll write up a long- winded explanation of how I did this if anyone's interested. It's more involved then simply putting a pin through the track, but the end result is a lot more rugged. Jim M-17 "Spirit" On Aug 31, 2010, at 9:12 AM, Daniel Rich wrote:
Where does one find a permanent slide stop? I have a thumb screw type on my Vagabond. It is really fragile.
daniel
On 8/31/2010 8:32 AM, Jim Poulakis wrote:
Just a few comments on installing jiffy reefing...
- The boom clew hardware should be positioned so the reefing line pulls the sail down and aft when the sail is in the reefed position (about 45 degrees). - When you install cleats on the boom (especially horn cleats) make sure they won't hook up on the shrouds when the boom is all the way out. - It's nice to have a permanent (not thumb screwed) slide stop below the gooseneck so the boom doesn't come clattering to the deck when the halyard is released. I located mine so that the boom rests low enough that all the sail slugs will stack up under the mast gate. - Depending on how you rig your tack, a mast gate may be a godsend. Or not.
Jim M-17 "Spirit"
On Aug 30, 2010, at 9:07 PM, ndorf@surfbest.net wrote:
Daniel, yes it is possible to do both.
My mainsail and boom is setup for jiffy reefing. Here is Judy Blumhorst's web page that shows some photos of how the rigging would be setup (I only have one line, the photo shows two.)
http://www.blumhorst.com/potterpages/potter_19_jiffy_reefing.htm
If you need to reef in a hurry, put the boat in irons, then cinch in the jiffy reefing line, which will raise the boom up at an angle. Then lower the main, cinch in the cunningham or adjust the downhaul accordingly or and tie up the reefing lines on each opposing side of the main to each other under the boom.
I'm not sure this is totally "textbook" but it's how I do it. Better still, if I have any doubt I need to reef, I start out sailing that way and then shake out the reef later if I feel it wasn't needed.
With a little practice it is easy to make the M15 heave to, and I'm still a relative newbie.
On the subject of heaving to and reefing line, M15 sailor Doug Kelch ("Seas the Day") explained it very well in a posting back in 2005. I don't know how to find the link (other than Google) but I'm sure he wouldn't mind my pasting it for you below:
* * * * *
"With the Montgomery boats there should not be a problem heaving to regardless of where the weight is.
Heaving to is somewhat of a balancing act/art form but the basics should work all of the time.
1)cleat off the jib tight to the fairlead, 2)Tack leaving the jib cleated 3) hold the heading head to wind for a few seconds during the tack to take the speed off of the boat. 4) ease the mainsheet so that the boom is a foot or two off of the stern quarter and comlete the tack. 5) push the tiller as far to leward as possible on the new tack and tie it off.
It is critical that the rudder be all the way to leward so that it acts as a brake and lets the boat burn any off any new energy trying to tack back when it has no momentum. The boat will creep forward makeing small attempts to come up to windward but not succeeding due the tiller braking action and the backwinded jib.
My jiffy reefing is set up inboard of the end of the boom just so I can reach the reefing lines while hove to.
Thanks
Doug Kelch"
* * * * *
Doug: Safe travels to the Northwest and Fair Winds!
Neil
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_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
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Just read all the thumb-screw-track-stop testimonials. What can I say? I've tried screwing them down snugly (they shake loose in SF Bay chop), screwing them down hard (spreads the track open - then they still loosen up), doubling up with two (when the gooseneck comes down it just smacks them both to the deck). I'd blame it on mast brands but "Seafrog" was built right after my "Spirit". Anybody wanna buy my old thumb-screw-track-stop collection for cheap? Jim M-17 "Spirit" Begin forwarded message:
From: Jim Poulakis <picfo@comcast.net> Date: August 31, 2010 11:04:00 PM PDT To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
Subject: Re: M_Boats: Reefing while under sail Reply-To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
In my experience the thumb-screw stops are completely worthless. I gave up looking for an off-the-shelf answer and just built my own.
I made a permanent stop out of some thick-walled 6061 aluminum tubing (same alloy as the mast). I fastened the tubing inside the mast "channel" with #10-24 machine screws that went through the mast "lips" "(that form the sail track) and into the tubing. I'll write up a long-winded explanation of how I did this if anyone's interested. It's more involved then simply putting a pin through the track, but the end result is a lot more rugged.
Jim M-17 "Spirit"
On Aug 31, 2010, at 9:12 AM, Daniel Rich wrote:
Where does one find a permanent slide stop? I have a thumb screw type on my Vagabond. It is really fragile.
daniel
On 8/31/2010 8:32 AM, Jim Poulakis wrote:
Just a few comments on installing jiffy reefing...
- The boom clew hardware should be positioned so the reefing line pulls the sail down and aft when the sail is in the reefed position (about 45 degrees). - When you install cleats on the boom (especially horn cleats) make sure they won't hook up on the shrouds when the boom is all the way out. - It's nice to have a permanent (not thumb screwed) slide stop below the gooseneck so the boom doesn't come clattering to the deck when the halyard is released. I located mine so that the boom rests low enough that all the sail slugs will stack up under the mast gate. - Depending on how you rig your tack, a mast gate may be a godsend. Or not.
Jim M-17 "Spirit"
On Aug 30, 2010, at 9:07 PM, ndorf@surfbest.net wrote:
Daniel, yes it is possible to do both.
My mainsail and boom is setup for jiffy reefing. Here is Judy Blumhorst's web page that shows some photos of how the rigging would be setup (I only have one line, the photo shows two.)
http://www.blumhorst.com/potterpages/potter_19_jiffy_reefing.htm
If you need to reef in a hurry, put the boat in irons, then cinch in the jiffy reefing line, which will raise the boom up at an angle. Then lower the main, cinch in the cunningham or adjust the downhaul accordingly or and tie up the reefing lines on each opposing side of the main to each other under the boom.
I'm not sure this is totally "textbook" but it's how I do it. Better still, if I have any doubt I need to reef, I start out sailing that way and then shake out the reef later if I feel it wasn't needed.
With a little practice it is easy to make the M15 heave to, and I'm still a relative newbie.
On the subject of heaving to and reefing line, M15 sailor Doug Kelch ("Seas the Day") explained it very well in a posting back in 2005. I don't know how to find the link (other than Google) but I'm sure he wouldn't mind my pasting it for you below:
* * * * *
"With the Montgomery boats there should not be a problem heaving to regardless of where the weight is.
Heaving to is somewhat of a balancing act/art form but the basics should work all of the time.
1)cleat off the jib tight to the fairlead, 2)Tack leaving the jib cleated 3) hold the heading head to wind for a few seconds during the tack to take the speed off of the boat. 4) ease the mainsheet so that the boom is a foot or two off of the stern quarter and comlete the tack. 5) push the tiller as far to leward as possible on the new tack and tie it off.
It is critical that the rudder be all the way to leward so that it acts as a brake and lets the boat burn any off any new energy trying to tack back when it has no momentum. The boat will creep forward makeing small attempts to come up to windward but not succeeding due the tiller braking action and the backwinded jib.
My jiffy reefing is set up inboard of the end of the boom just so I can reach the reefing lines while hove to.
Thanks
Doug Kelch"
* * * * *
Doug: Safe travels to the Northwest and Fair Winds!
Neil
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Maybe my thumb screws have oxidized (read "welded") to the mast and that's why they don't come loose.... With the mast gate that I have, I loosen the screws slide it forward out of the way and then use the mast slot to remove both the sail and the boom so I never mess with the thumb screw. Joe Seafrog ps I'm waiting to hear from the MSOG site manager on instructions on how to post the pictures of my mast gate. In the meantime if anyone is interested in the pictures we can go off line. Contact me at seagray@embarqmail.com jm ----- Original Message ----- From: Jim Poulakis To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 2:41 AM Subject: M_Boats: Fwd: Reefing while under sail Just read all the thumb-screw-track-stop testimonials. What can I say? I've tried screwing them down snugly (they shake loose in SF Bay chop), screwing them down hard (spreads the track open - then they still loosen up), doubling up with two (when the gooseneck comes down it just smacks them both to the deck). I'd blame it on mast brands but "Seafrog" was built right after my "Spirit". Anybody wanna buy my old thumb-screw-track-stop collection for cheap? Jim M-17 "Spirit" Begin forwarded message:
From: Jim Poulakis <picfo@comcast.net> Date: August 31, 2010 11:04:00 PM PDT To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
Subject: Re: M_Boats: Reefing while under sail Reply-To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
In my experience the thumb-screw stops are completely worthless. I gave up looking for an off-the-shelf answer and just built my own.
I made a permanent stop out of some thick-walled 6061 aluminum tubing (same alloy as the mast). I fastened the tubing inside the mast "channel" with #10-24 machine screws that went through the mast "lips" "(that form the sail track) and into the tubing. I'll write up a long-winded explanation of how I did this if anyone's interested. It's more involved then simply putting a pin through the track, but the end result is a lot more rugged.
Jim M-17 "Spirit"
On Aug 31, 2010, at 9:12 AM, Daniel Rich wrote:
Where does one find a permanent slide stop? I have a thumb screw type on my Vagabond. It is really fragile.
daniel
On 8/31/2010 8:32 AM, Jim Poulakis wrote:
Just a few comments on installing jiffy reefing...
- The boom clew hardware should be positioned so the reefing line pulls the sail down and aft when the sail is in the reefed position (about 45 degrees). - When you install cleats on the boom (especially horn cleats) make sure they won't hook up on the shrouds when the boom is all the way out. - It's nice to have a permanent (not thumb screwed) slide stop below the gooseneck so the boom doesn't come clattering to the deck when the halyard is released. I located mine so that the boom rests low enough that all the sail slugs will stack up under the mast gate. - Depending on how you rig your tack, a mast gate may be a godsend. Or not.
Jim M-17 "Spirit"
On Aug 30, 2010, at 9:07 PM, ndorf@surfbest.net wrote:
Daniel, yes it is possible to do both.
My mainsail and boom is setup for jiffy reefing. Here is Judy Blumhorst's web page that shows some photos of how the rigging would be setup (I only have one line, the photo shows two.)
http://www.blumhorst.com/potterpages/potter_19_jiffy_reefing.htm
If you need to reef in a hurry, put the boat in irons, then cinch in the jiffy reefing line, which will raise the boom up at an angle. Then lower the main, cinch in the cunningham or adjust the downhaul accordingly or and tie up the reefing lines on each opposing side of the main to each other under the boom.
I'm not sure this is totally "textbook" but it's how I do it. Better still, if I have any doubt I need to reef, I start out sailing that way and then shake out the reef later if I feel it wasn't needed.
With a little practice it is easy to make the M15 heave to, and I'm still a relative newbie.
On the subject of heaving to and reefing line, M15 sailor Doug Kelch ("Seas the Day") explained it very well in a posting back in 2005. I don't know how to find the link (other than Google) but I'm sure he wouldn't mind my pasting it for you below:
* * * * *
"With the Montgomery boats there should not be a problem heaving to regardless of where the weight is.
Heaving to is somewhat of a balancing act/art form but the basics should work all of the time.
1)cleat off the jib tight to the fairlead, 2)Tack leaving the jib cleated 3) hold the heading head to wind for a few seconds during the tack to take the speed off of the boat. 4) ease the mainsheet so that the boom is a foot or two off of the stern quarter and comlete the tack. 5) push the tiller as far to leward as possible on the new tack and tie it off.
It is critical that the rudder be all the way to leward so that it acts as a brake and lets the boat burn any off any new energy trying to tack back when it has no momentum. The boat will creep forward makeing small attempts to come up to windward but not succeeding due the tiller braking action and the backwinded jib.
My jiffy reefing is set up inboard of the end of the boom just so I can reach the reefing lines while hove to.
Thanks
Doug Kelch"
* * * * *
Doug: Safe travels to the Northwest and Fair Winds!
Neil
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Hey Joe.... Email them to me.. I will post them for you.. Take care Bob Eeg (949) 489-8227
From: seagray@embarqmail.com To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 13:01:35 -0400 Subject: Re: M_Boats: Fwd: Reefing while under sail
Maybe my thumb screws have oxidized (read "welded") to the mast and that's why they don't come loose.... With the mast gate that I have, I loosen the screws slide it forward out of the way and then use the mast slot to remove both the sail and the boom so I never mess with the thumb screw. Joe Seafrog ps I'm waiting to hear from the MSOG site manager on instructions on how to post the pictures of my mast gate. In the meantime if anyone is interested in the pictures we can go off line. Contact me at seagray@embarqmail.com jm
----- Original Message ----- From: Jim Poulakis To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 2:41 AM Subject: M_Boats: Fwd: Reefing while under sail
Just read all the thumb-screw-track-stop testimonials. What can I say? I've tried screwing them down snugly (they shake loose in SF Bay chop), screwing them down hard (spreads the track open - then they still loosen up), doubling up with two (when the gooseneck comes down it just smacks them both to the deck). I'd blame it on mast brands but "Seafrog" was built right after my "Spirit".
Anybody wanna buy my old thumb-screw-track-stop collection for cheap?
Jim M-17 "Spirit"
Begin forwarded message:
From: Jim Poulakis <picfo@comcast.net> Date: August 31, 2010 11:04:00 PM PDT To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
Subject: Re: M_Boats: Reefing while under sail Reply-To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
In my experience the thumb-screw stops are completely worthless. I gave up looking for an off-the-shelf answer and just built my own.
I made a permanent stop out of some thick-walled 6061 aluminum tubing (same alloy as the mast). I fastened the tubing inside the mast "channel" with #10-24 machine screws that went through the mast "lips" "(that form the sail track) and into the tubing. I'll write up a long-winded explanation of how I did this if anyone's interested. It's more involved then simply putting a pin through the track, but the end result is a lot more rugged.
Jim M-17 "Spirit"
On Aug 31, 2010, at 9:12 AM, Daniel Rich wrote:
Where does one find a permanent slide stop? I have a thumb screw type on my Vagabond. It is really fragile.
daniel
On 8/31/2010 8:32 AM, Jim Poulakis wrote:
Just a few comments on installing jiffy reefing...
- The boom clew hardware should be positioned so the reefing line pulls the sail down and aft when the sail is in the reefed position (about 45 degrees). - When you install cleats on the boom (especially horn cleats) make sure they won't hook up on the shrouds when the boom is all the way out. - It's nice to have a permanent (not thumb screwed) slide stop below the gooseneck so the boom doesn't come clattering to the deck when the halyard is released. I located mine so that the boom rests low enough that all the sail slugs will stack up under the mast gate. - Depending on how you rig your tack, a mast gate may be a godsend. Or not.
Jim M-17 "Spirit"
On Aug 30, 2010, at 9:07 PM, ndorf@surfbest.net wrote:
Daniel, yes it is possible to do both.
My mainsail and boom is setup for jiffy reefing. Here is Judy Blumhorst's web page that shows some photos of how the rigging would be setup (I only have one line, the photo shows two.)
http://www.blumhorst.com/potterpages/potter_19_jiffy_reefing.htm
If you need to reef in a hurry, put the boat in irons, then cinch in the jiffy reefing line, which will raise the boom up at an angle. Then lower the main, cinch in the cunningham or adjust the downhaul accordingly or and tie up the reefing lines on each opposing side of the main to each other under the boom.
I'm not sure this is totally "textbook" but it's how I do it. Better still, if I have any doubt I need to reef, I start out sailing that way and then shake out the reef later if I feel it wasn't needed.
With a little practice it is easy to make the M15 heave to, and I'm still a relative newbie.
On the subject of heaving to and reefing line, M15 sailor Doug Kelch ("Seas the Day") explained it very well in a posting back in 2005. I don't know how to find the link (other than Google) but I'm sure he wouldn't mind my pasting it for you below:
* * * * *
"With the Montgomery boats there should not be a problem heaving to regardless of where the weight is.
Heaving to is somewhat of a balancing act/art form but the basics should work all of the time.
1)cleat off the jib tight to the fairlead, 2)Tack leaving the jib cleated 3) hold the heading head to wind for a few seconds during the tack to take the speed off of the boat. 4) ease the mainsheet so that the boom is a foot or two off of the stern quarter and comlete the tack. 5) push the tiller as far to leward as possible on the new tack and tie it off.
It is critical that the rudder be all the way to leward so that it acts as a brake and lets the boat burn any off any new energy trying to tack back when it has no momentum. The boat will creep forward makeing small attempts to come up to windward but not succeeding due the tiller braking action and the backwinded jib.
My jiffy reefing is set up inboard of the end of the boom just so I can reach the reefing lines while hove to.
Thanks
Doug Kelch"
* * * * *
Doug: Safe travels to the Northwest and Fair Winds!
Neil
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Bob, I sent the pictures on a separate email. Did you get it?? Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob From California To: Monty Listserver Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 2:28 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Fwd: Reefing while under sail Hey Joe.... Email them to me.. I will post them for you.. Take care Bob Eeg (949) 489-8227
From: seagray@embarqmail.com To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 13:01:35 -0400 Subject: Re: M_Boats: Fwd: Reefing while under sail
Maybe my thumb screws have oxidized (read "welded") to the mast and that's why they don't come loose.... With the mast gate that I have, I loosen the screws slide it forward out of the way and then use the mast slot to remove both the sail and the boom so I never mess with the thumb screw. Joe Seafrog ps I'm waiting to hear from the MSOG site manager on instructions on how to post the pictures of my mast gate. In the meantime if anyone is interested in the pictures we can go off line. Contact me at seagray@embarqmail.com jm
----- Original Message ----- From: Jim Poulakis To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 2:41 AM Subject: M_Boats: Fwd: Reefing while under sail
Just read all the thumb-screw-track-stop testimonials. What can I say? I've tried screwing them down snugly (they shake loose in SF Bay chop), screwing them down hard (spreads the track open - then they still loosen up), doubling up with two (when the gooseneck comes down it just smacks them both to the deck). I'd blame it on mast brands but "Seafrog" was built right after my "Spirit".
Anybody wanna buy my old thumb-screw-track-stop collection for cheap?
Jim M-17 "Spirit"
Begin forwarded message:
From: Jim Poulakis <picfo@comcast.net> Date: August 31, 2010 11:04:00 PM PDT To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
Subject: Re: M_Boats: Reefing while under sail Reply-To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
In my experience the thumb-screw stops are completely worthless. I gave up looking for an off-the-shelf answer and just built my own.
I made a permanent stop out of some thick-walled 6061 aluminum tubing (same alloy as the mast). I fastened the tubing inside the mast "channel" with #10-24 machine screws that went through the mast "lips" "(that form the sail track) and into the tubing. I'll write up a long-winded explanation of how I did this if anyone's interested. It's more involved then simply putting a pin through the track, but the end result is a lot more rugged.
Jim M-17 "Spirit"
On Aug 31, 2010, at 9:12 AM, Daniel Rich wrote:
Where does one find a permanent slide stop? I have a thumb screw type on my Vagabond. It is really fragile.
daniel
On 8/31/2010 8:32 AM, Jim Poulakis wrote:
Just a few comments on installing jiffy reefing...
- The boom clew hardware should be positioned so the reefing line pulls the sail down and aft when the sail is in the reefed position (about 45 degrees). - When you install cleats on the boom (especially horn cleats) make sure they won't hook up on the shrouds when the boom is all the way out. - It's nice to have a permanent (not thumb screwed) slide stop below the gooseneck so the boom doesn't come clattering to the deck when the halyard is released. I located mine so that the boom rests low enough that all the sail slugs will stack up under the mast gate. - Depending on how you rig your tack, a mast gate may be a godsend. Or not.
Jim M-17 "Spirit"
On Aug 30, 2010, at 9:07 PM, ndorf@surfbest.net wrote:
Daniel, yes it is possible to do both.
My mainsail and boom is setup for jiffy reefing. Here is Judy Blumhorst's web page that shows some photos of how the rigging would be setup (I only have one line, the photo shows two.)
http://www.blumhorst.com/potterpages/potter_19_jiffy_reefing.htm
If you need to reef in a hurry, put the boat in irons, then cinch in the jiffy reefing line, which will raise the boom up at an angle. Then lower the main, cinch in the cunningham or adjust the downhaul accordingly or and tie up the reefing lines on each opposing side of the main to each other under the boom.
I'm not sure this is totally "textbook" but it's how I do it. Better still, if I have any doubt I need to reef, I start out sailing that way and then shake out the reef later if I feel it wasn't needed.
With a little practice it is easy to make the M15 heave to, and I'm still a relative newbie.
On the subject of heaving to and reefing line, M15 sailor Doug Kelch ("Seas the Day") explained it very well in a posting back in 2005. I don't know how to find the link (other than Google) but I'm sure he wouldn't mind my pasting it for you below:
* * * * *
"With the Montgomery boats there should not be a problem heaving to regardless of where the weight is.
Heaving to is somewhat of a balancing act/art form but the basics should work all of the time.
1)cleat off the jib tight to the fairlead, 2)Tack leaving the jib cleated 3) hold the heading head to wind for a few seconds during the tack to take the speed off of the boat. 4) ease the mainsheet so that the boom is a foot or two off of the stern quarter and comlete the tack. 5) push the tiller as far to leward as possible on the new tack and tie it off.
It is critical that the rudder be all the way to leward so that it acts as a brake and lets the boat burn any off any new energy trying to tack back when it has no momentum. The boat will creep forward makeing small attempts to come up to windward but not succeeding due the tiller braking action and the backwinded jib.
My jiffy reefing is set up inboard of the end of the boom just so I can reach the reefing lines while hove to.
Thanks
Doug Kelch"
* * * * *
Doug: Safe travels to the Northwest and Fair Winds!
Neil
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/ montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
participants (12)
-
Bill Wickett -
Bob From California -
Daniel Rich -
Ed Whitehead -
jerry -
Jim Poulakis -
Joe Murphy -
M23 "Daunltess" -
ndorf＠surfbest.net -
robbin roddewig -
tonyreed219＠gmail.com -
wcampion＠aol.com