Centerboard trials and tribulations
Don, It must have been a replaced cbd, because as far as I'm aware, all the boats up to 1985 had cast iron c'boards. Maybe I'm wrong on this and if so others will surely correct me here. If your board was cast iron, YIKES! Was it? Eugene #354 1982
Yes, it was cast iron. It made quite a thud when it fell to the full down position. When we had it out of the water, it took two guys to hold it up while I climbed into the cockpit and rewinched it. So now the board is up and she's back on the trailer. Also when it was lifted out of the water I could see that the board had not broken, but the retaining pin aft of the board had warped, allowing the centerboard to fall completely. So the rope broke, dropping the cast iron centerboard on the retaining pin, which gave way, and the centerboard fell to rest on only the pivot pin. Fortunately that pin held.
From the archives, last April 12, Jerry M. wrote that on an older Montgomery 17 with the cast iron centerboard (like mine), the board is designed to rest on that pin which has been knocked out. So obvoiuly I need to replace the pin. Let's hope that I didn't foul up the pin hole when I removed the warped pin.
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"Yes, it was cast iron. It made quite a thud when it fell to the full down position. When we had it out of the water, it took two guys to hold it up while I climbed into the cockpit and rewinched it. Also when it was lifted out of the water I could see that the board had not broken, but the retaining pin aft of the board had warped, allowing the centerboard to fall completely. So the rope broke, dropping the cast iron centerboard on the retaining pin, which gave way, and the centerboard fell to rest on only the pivot pin. Fortunately that pin held." >From the archives, last April 12, Jerry M. wrote that on an older Montgomery 17 with the cast iron centerboard (like mine), the board is designed to rest on that pin which has been knocked out. So obviously I need to replace the pin. Let's hope that I didn't foul up the pin hole when I removed the warped pin. Please note that the probable reason for that stainless steel pin bending was allowing the board to drop unrestrained! Ease the old cast iron boards down. Mark M17 #400 GRACE
"Ease the old cast iron boards down.": This is definitely good advice. Could some of the timeworn cast-iron-centerboard 17-ers out there lend some advice as to how to lower the board slowly and gently? My experience is that the board tends to get away from you and drop with a spine-tingling jarring thud on the retaining pin: I'm sure the pin can't withstand the "thud" repeatedly. Thanks! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Roberta & Mark Dvorscak" <edarts@rosenet.net> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 12:16 AM Subject: M_Boats: Centerboard trials and tribulations "Yes, it was cast iron. It made quite a thud when it fell to the full down position. When we had it out of the water, it took two guys to hold it up while I climbed into the cockpit and rewinched it. Also when it was lifted out of the water I could see that the board had not broken, but the retaining pin aft of the board had warped, allowing the centerboard to fall completely. So the rope broke, dropping the cast iron centerboard on the retaining pin, which gave way, and the centerboard fell to rest on only the pivot pin. Fortunately that pin held."
From the archives, last April 12, Jerry M. wrote that on an older Montgomery 17 with the cast iron centerboard (like mine), the board is designed to rest on that pin which has been knocked out. So obviously I need to replace the pin. Let's hope that I didn't foul up the pin hole when I removed the warped pin.
Please note that the probable reason for that stainless steel pin bending was allowing the board to drop unrestrained! Ease the old cast iron boards down. Mark M17 #400 GRACE _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
My method for gently lowering the cast iron board is to keep 3 turns around the winch and maintain some tension on the line as I slowly let the board down. It doesn't require any strength to speak of. The friction of the line on the winch drum will hold the board with very little effort. Mark
That's the same way I do it. Also, even old and withered, I find I still have sufficient strength to raise the board by hand and tie it off on the cleat. The winch gets used only for the friction effect when lowering the board. Although I must admit it is comforting to know it's there should raising the board ever become a chore that might require it. Dan M-17 316B Roberta & Mark Dvorscak wrote:
My method for gently lowering the cast iron board is to keep 3 turns around the winch and maintain some tension on the line as I slowly let the board down. It doesn't require any strength to speak of. The friction of the line on the winch drum will hold the board with very little effort.
Mark
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Excellent! Thanks! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Roberta & Mark Dvorscak" <edarts@rosenet.net> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, March 24, 2002 1:55 AM Subject: M_Boats: easing down the board My method for gently lowering the cast iron board is to keep 3 turns around the winch and maintain some tension on the line as I slowly let the board down. It doesn't require any strength to speak of. The friction of the line on the winch drum will hold the board with very little effort. Mark _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
participants (4)
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Dan White -
Donald Andrew Miller -
Honshells -
Roberta & Mark Dvorscak