I am refinishing the companionway boards on my M-17, and found on one corner that the plywood has delaminated back about three inches each way. The teak veneer has also come unattached in the same area. The wood doesn't seem to be rotted, and is completely dry (it's been in my basement for a while.) Does anyone have experience in repairing something like this? Can it even be done so it will last? I'm planning a lot of coats of varnish after the repair. On a website I found a suggestion that injecting resin between the plies and clamping might work. Any help in figuring out whether to repair or replace would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Rick M-17 Lynne L ************** A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1218822736x1201267884/aol?redir=http... 072%26hmpgID%3D62%26bcd%3DfebemailfooterNO62)
Rick, I had to do the same fix on my boards this winter. What I did was I put in 3M 5200 (spread it in with a toothpick) and clamp it down for 4-5 days, then sand it lightly and coat it with many coats of Cetol. Unfortunately it did not come out too good looking, because the 5200 was white, so even through many layers of Cetol you could see it; but it is still alright. How well it will hold up... we'll have to see in the summer. Andrei.
Rick, If the plies aren't badly warped, I'd try epoxy. If you have a couple of large clamps, a couple of pieces of wood (1x4 would be good) to spread the clamp load across the area. Spread the plies a bit while pouring/injecting the epoxy, and then very lightly clamp them together (an anvil or cement block might be good if no clamps). Don't squeeze them too hard to squeeze out the epoxy ; you need epoxy in the joint for the bond. You can cover the exposed nice faces with Saran Wrap to keep them from getting epoxy on them. Epoxy on the edges can be sanded off easily with sandpaper on a block. Tod Mills M17 #408, 1987 galley model BuscaBrisas
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of JDavies104@aol.com Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2009 1:59 PM To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Subject: M_Boats: Plywood repair?
I am refinishing the companionway boards on my M-17, and found on one corner that the plywood has delaminated back about three inches each way. The teak veneer has also come unattached in the same area. The wood doesn't seem to be rotted, and is completely dry (it's been in my basement for a while.) Does anyone have experience in repairing something like this? Can it even be done so it will last? I'm planning a lot of coats of varnish after the repair. On a website I found a suggestion that injecting resin between the plies and clamping might work. Any help in figuring out whether to repair or replace would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Rick M-17 Lynne L
************** A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1218822736x1201267884/aol?redi r=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668 072%26hmpgID%3D62%26bcd%3DfebemailfooterNO62) _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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Rick, I agree with Tod.? The only change I would suggest is using Gorilla Glue.? It is a polyurethane glue and will hold very well.? Be careful not to apply too much, because it expands as it cures.? Sand off any excess and coat with varnish.? It will be good as new. Good Luck, Skip -----Original Message----- From: htmills@zoominternet.net To: 'For and about Montgomery Sailboats' <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 3:15 pm Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plywood repair? Rick, If the plies aren't badly warped, I'd try epoxy. If you have a couple of large clamps, a couple of pieces of wood (1x4 would be good) to spread the clamp load across the area. Spread the plies a bit while pouring/injecting the epoxy, and then very lightly clamp them together (an anvil or cement block might be good if no clamps). Don't squeeze them too hard to squeeze out the epoxy ; you need epoxy in the joint for the bond. You can cover the exposed nice faces with Saran Wrap to keep them from getting epoxy on them. Epoxy on the edges can be sanded off easily with sandpaper on a block. Tod Mills M17 #408, 1987 galley model BuscaBrisas
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of JDavies104@aol.com Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2009 1:59 PM To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Subject: M_Boats: Plywood repair?
I am refinishing the companionway boards on my M-17, and found on one corner that the plywood has delaminated back about three inches each way. The teak veneer has also come unattached in the same area. The wood doesn't seem to be rotted, and is completely dry (it's been in my basement for a while.) Does anyone have experience in repairing something like this? Can it even be done so it will last? I'm planning a lot of coats of varnish after the repair. On a website I found a suggestion that injecting resin between the plies and clamping might work. Any help in figuring out whether to repair or replace would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Rick M-17 Lynne L
************** A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1218822736x1201267884/aol?redi r=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668 072%26hmpgID%3D62%26bcd%3DfebemailfooterNO62) _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmissio n.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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Epoxy resin will work fine for this. You don't need a lot of clamping pressure with epoxy; in fact too much and you starve the joint and weaken the repair. The trick will be finding a way to compress the plies enough while the resin sets. Most epoxy can be poured and moved into place with spreaders or even popsicle sticks. Vinyl or latex gloves are advised (some people have or develop epoxy sensitivity). Stiff plastic, slightly heavier than Saran Wrap, is good for putting under the boards, then another piece over it, another piece of plywood to spread the weight and something heavy on top could be enough to compress the plies until the epoxy starts to set. Depending on temp, the epoxy will start to cure within a few hours. Before it fully hardens you can scrape off or shape any squeeze out easier than once it fully cures. When it has fully cured, use a nylon "scrubbie" pad and some water to scrub off the wax-like coating that sometimes forms on the epoxy before sanding and finishing. Epoxy does not have good UV resistance so it will need to be coated with varnish or Cetol. But I think it would give you the most natural looking repair. On Wed, Feb 18, 2009 at 10:58 AM, <JDavies104@aol.com> wrote:
I am refinishing the companionway boards on my M-17, and found on one corner that the plywood has delaminated back about three inches each way. The teak veneer has also come unattached in the same area. The wood doesn't seem to be rotted, and is completely dry (it's been in my basement for a while.) Does anyone have experience in repairing something like this? Can it even be done so it will last? I'm planning a lot of coats of varnish after the repair. On a website I found a suggestion that injecting resin between the plies and clamping might work. Any help in figuring out whether to repair or replace would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Rick M-17 Lynne L
************** A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1218822736x1201267884/aol?redir=http... 072%26hmpgID%3D62%26bcd%3DfebemailfooterNO62) _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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participants (5)
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Andrei Caldararu -
Frank Hagan -
htmills＠zoominternet.net -
JDavies104＠aol.com -
wcampion＠aol.com