Got the centerboard down!
I got the stuck centerboard on my M15 out with a puller (see photos) based on a design by Jim Sadler. The board was really stuck, and hammering down a rod from the top did nothing. Rusting seems to have drastically increased it's thickness. I wish I had tried this puller right from the beginning. Now which way do I hammer out the pivot pin? Does it matter? I heard once that it's tapered on one end, but I don't know which. Sincerely, Tyler '81 M15 #157 "Defiant"
The pin isn't really tapered, it may have been peined on the starboard side after it was put into the boat. Pound out the rotation pin port to starboard. Put the pin back in starboard to port. Be sure to support the board as you remove the pin. This will make it easier to get the pin out. :: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA :: Former M15 owner On Jun 15, 2014 7:47 PM, "Tyler Backman" <casioqv@usermail.com> wrote:
I got the stuck centerboard on my M15 out with a puller (see photos) based on a design by Jim Sadler. The board was really stuck, and hammering down a rod from the top did nothing. Rusting seems to have drastically increased it's thickness. I wish I had tried this puller right from the beginning.
Now which way do I hammer out the pivot pin? Does it matter? I heard once that it's tapered on one end, but I don't know which.
Sincerely, Tyler '81 M15 #157 "Defiant"
Nice pics Tyler. It appears, once again, necessity is the mother of invention!! Nice and effective design Jim. I will file this away for future (I really hope not) reference. Skip Campion M-15 #201 M-5.8 #24 -----Original Message----- From: Tyler Backman <casioqv@usermail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sun, Jun 15, 2014 9:47 pm Subject: M_Boats: Got the centerboard down! I got the stuck centerboard on my M15 out with a puller (see photos) based on a design by Jim Sadler. The board was really stuck, and hammering down a rod from the top did nothing. Rusting seems to have drastically increased it's thickness. I wish I had tried this puller right from the beginning. Now which way do I hammer out the pivot pin? Does it matter? I heard once that it's tapered on one end, but I don't know which. Sincerely, Tyler '81 M15 #157 "Defiant"
Geez Tyler, What a deal. Glad you got the board down. I think I would run those compression members back to the sides of the cb well. Those screw drives can generate lots of pressure. "Good on ya." Tom B M17 #258 On Sun, Jun 15, 2014 at 8:47 PM, Tyler Backman <casioqv@usermail.com> wrote:
I got the stuck centerboard on my M15 out with a puller (see photos) based on a design by Jim Sadler. The board was really stuck, and hammering down a rod from the top did nothing. Rusting seems to have drastically increased it's thickness. I wish I had tried this puller right from the beginning.
Now which way do I hammer out the pivot pin? Does it matter? I heard once that it's tapered on one end, but I don't know which.
Sincerely, Tyler '81 M15 #157 "Defiant"
That was my misunderstanding of Captain Jim Sadler's design, he did design it to push against the keel, not the hull. That said, I used 2x6 boards and pushed right at a strong "wrinkle" in the hull. I think the force was very spread out and not a problem for the very stiff and thick M15 hull. There was no visible flexing or deformation of the hull at all. Honestly, I didn't need to apply much force to get the board down. I think the main problem I had before was that I couldn't get steady force in the correct direction, so nothing would make it move. The old centerboard was extremely brittle and would chip and fall apart whenever I tried to pry on it or grip it until I sandwiched it between those two heavy steel plates. Tyler '81 M15 #157 "Defiant" On Jun 16, 2014, at 7:58 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Geez Tyler, What a deal. Glad you got the board down. I think I would run those compression members back to the sides of the cb well. Those screw drives can generate lots of pressure. "Good on ya." Tom B M17 #258
On Sun, Jun 15, 2014 at 8:47 PM, Tyler Backman <casioqv@usermail.com> wrote:
I got the stuck centerboard on my M15 out with a puller (see photos) based on a design by Jim Sadler. The board was really stuck, and hammering down a rod from the top did nothing. Rusting seems to have drastically increased it's thickness. I wish I had tried this puller right from the beginning.
Now which way do I hammer out the pivot pin? Does it matter? I heard once that it's tapered on one end, but I don't know which.
Sincerely, Tyler '81 M15 #157 "Defiant"
Can't beat a force applied in just the right direction. Good on ya. What's the CB housing look like inside? Will it need some massive rebuilding to straighten it out? Thanks for the pics. I will file them away for the day I might need the idea. Good luck, Tom B. On Mon, Jun 16, 2014 at 1:16 PM, Tyler Backman <casioqv@usermail.com> wrote:
That was my misunderstanding of Captain Jim Sadler's design, he did design it to push against the keel, not the hull.
That said, I used 2x6 boards and pushed right at a strong "wrinkle" in the hull. I think the force was very spread out and not a problem for the very stiff and thick M15 hull. There was no visible flexing or deformation of the hull at all. Honestly, I didn't need to apply much force to get the board down. I think the main problem I had before was that I couldn't get steady force in the correct direction, so nothing would make it move. The old centerboard was extremely brittle and would chip and fall apart whenever I tried to pry on it or grip it until I sandwiched it between those two heavy steel plates.
Tyler '81 M15 #157 "Defiant"
On Jun 16, 2014, at 7:58 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Geez Tyler, What a deal. Glad you got the board down. I think I would run those compression members back to the sides of the cb well. Those screw drives can generate lots of pressure. "Good on ya." Tom B M17 #258
On Sun, Jun 15, 2014 at 8:47 PM, Tyler Backman <casioqv@usermail.com> wrote:
I got the stuck centerboard on my M15 out with a puller (see photos) based on a design by Jim Sadler. The board was really stuck, and hammering down a rod from the top did nothing. Rusting seems to have drastically increased it's thickness. I wish I had tried this puller right from the beginning.
Now which way do I hammer out the pivot pin? Does it matter? I heard once that it's tapered on one end, but I don't know which.
Sincerely, Tyler '81 M15 #157 "Defiant"
There's a large gap all around the inside opening of the centerboard trunk. I guess this is normal on these boats? Any suggestions on how to fill this? The "lazy" option I thought off was filling it with marine tex putty, but I'm worried that would crack over time. It doesn't look good, so I'll probably grind it smooth, fill it with thickened epoxy, and add a few layers of fiberglass cloth. I also damaged the inside of the housing by hammering the metal rod through (to try and get the centerboard down), so there is one gash near the inside bottom about 3" long and 1/2" wide. I think I will be able to reach up far enough to lay new cloth over the hole from the inside. I'm crossing my fingers I won't have to open up the keel itself and replace the steel punchings with lead. That job, from the photos I've seen, looks like my worst nightmare. Especially since I don't have any way to lift the boat and am squeezing under the trailer. To the best of my knowledge this boat is very dry, and hasn't been in the water for over 20 years (it has 1992 registration tags). I don't currently see any signs of the keel itself swelling. Tyler '81 M15 #157 "Defiant" ----- Original Message ----- From: "Thomas Buzzi" <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Monday, June 16, 2014 2:55:59 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Got the centerboard down! Can't beat a force applied in just the right direction. Good on ya. What's the CB housing look like inside? Will it need some massive rebuilding to straighten it out? Thanks for the pics. I will file them away for the day I might need the idea. Good luck, Tom B.
Tyler: i recommend you confirm the fit of the new centerboard before filling the crack and the gouge. if the keel ballast is swelling best to know before you move forward on the repairs. that crack isn't normal, but some 15s and 17s do have the filler come loose (it is filling the butt joint where the centerboard trunk meets the slot at the bottom of the keel). 'grind it smooth, fill it with thickened epoxy;' is how to fill the crack. put a layer of mat over the patch and then cloth. just cloth may pop off the repair. do the same layering of mat and cloth for the gouge in the trunk. the mat and cloth can be fairly light as it is just to create a stable surface. be sure you grind everything back to the same trunk thickness, there is only about 1/8" or less play between the centerboard and trunk. -- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com On Mon, Jun 16, 2014 at 4:33 PM, <casioqv@usermail.com> wrote:
There's a large gap all around the inside opening of the centerboard trunk. I guess this is normal on these boats? Any suggestions on how to fill this? The "lazy" option I thought off was filling it with marine tex putty, but I'm worried that would crack over time. It doesn't look good, so I'll probably grind it smooth, fill it with thickened epoxy, and add a few layers of fiberglass cloth.
I also damaged the inside of the housing by hammering the metal rod through (to try and get the centerboard down), so there is one gash near the inside bottom about 3" long and 1/2" wide. I think I will be able to reach up far enough to lay new cloth over the hole from the inside.
I'm crossing my fingers I won't have to open up the keel itself and replace the steel punchings with lead. That job, from the photos I've seen, looks like my worst nightmare. Especially since I don't have any way to lift the boat and am squeezing under the trailer. To the best of my knowledge this boat is very dry, and hasn't been in the water for over 20 years (it has 1992 registration tags). I don't currently see any signs of the keel itself swelling.
Tyler '81 M15 #157 "Defiant"
Good idea on the test fit, the new board fits with plenty of clearance. In some spots the old centerboard is nearly twice the width of the new one, and it's seams are burst almost all the way around. The damage to the inside of the trunk looks much worse than I thought on closer inspection. I will need to patch a fairly large panel reaching up into the narrow slot. I think I can do it with the right tools, especially a long dremel extension cable. I'll just cut the bad fiberglass out, bevel the edges with the dremel, and then lay new cloth up there with a long putty knife. Then I can sand it back flush to the original clearances. Is it necessary to paint the epoxy repairs after I'm done even if the boat will be exclusively trailered? If so, any suggestions on the type of paint to use? I loaned my Don Casey book to my dad! Tyler '81 M15 #157 "Defiant" On Jun 16, 2014, at 3:50 PM, Dave Scobie wrote:
i recommend you confirm the fit of the new centerboard before filling the crack and the gouge. if the keel ballast is swelling best to know before you move forward on the repairs.
good news that the new board fits ... means the ballast isn't rusting! for the repairs to the trunk and the bottom of the centerboard trunk: gel coat is doing two things - * looks nice * protects the fiberglass & resin from rubbing and UV the BIG thing is protecting from UV. epoxy, or the resin used to make the boat, and fiberglass are not UV stable. unprotected surfaces that 'see the sun' will break down. so you _must_ cover the epoxy fixes that are 'external and see sun' with something. deep inside the trunk will not see sun (the lower part may). if you are not worried about rubbing from the board over your 'upper trunk patch' i wouldn't cover. the exterior stuff at the bottom of the trunk and keel can be covered with - * gel coat (in the amounts you need can be difficult to find for a 'home fixer') * an exterior boat paint (from Interlux for example) * exterior grade oil based house paint (yes, this is what many home boat builders use) be sure to correctly prep the patch so the product you choose to cover it will 'stick'. this involves cleaning off the epoxy blush, removing any wax (yes, even an old boat may have some mold release wax on the surface) and sanding to assure a strong mechanical bond. personal preference on how close the color match matches and how pretty a surface. -- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com On Tue, Jun 17, 2014 at 10:43 AM, Tyler Backman <casioqv@usermail.com> wrote:
Good idea on the test fit, the new board fits with plenty of clearance. In some spots the old centerboard is nearly twice the width of the new one, and it's seams are burst almost all the way around.
The damage to the inside of the trunk looks much worse than I thought on closer inspection. I will need to patch a fairly large panel reaching up into the narrow slot. I think I can do it with the right tools, especially a long dremel extension cable. I'll just cut the bad fiberglass out, bevel the edges with the dremel, and then lay new cloth up there with a long putty knife. Then I can sand it back flush to the original clearances.
Is it necessary to paint the epoxy repairs after I'm done even if the boat will be exclusively trailered? If so, any suggestions on the type of paint to use? I loaned my Don Casey book to my dad!
Tyler '81 M15 #157 "Defiant"
On Jun 16, 2014, at 3:50 PM, Dave Scobie wrote:
i recommend you confirm the fit of the new centerboard before filling the crack and the gouge. if the keel ballast is swelling best to know before you move forward on the repairs.
I would stay with the original surfaces on everything as per the boat was manufactured. If there is a large gap around the cb and it looks like a factory configuration filling it would not be a good idea. How was the board stuck? Was it just an accumulation of dirt and debris? They say sleeping with your fingers crossed is also a good way to avoid opening up the cb trunk.;-} I am facing the same situation with mine, a 78 model. So far though all is well. Good luck, Tom B. M17 On Mon, Jun 16, 2014 at 5:33 PM, <casioqv@usermail.com> wrote:
There's a large gap all around the inside opening of the centerboard trunk. I guess this is normal on these boats? Any suggestions on how to fill this? The "lazy" option I thought off was filling it with marine tex putty, but I'm worried that would crack over time. It doesn't look good, so I'll probably grind it smooth, fill it with thickened epoxy, and add a few layers of fiberglass cloth.
I also damaged the inside of the housing by hammering the metal rod through (to try and get the centerboard down), so there is one gash near the inside bottom about 3" long and 1/2" wide. I think I will be able to reach up far enough to lay new cloth over the hole from the inside.
I'm crossing my fingers I won't have to open up the keel itself and replace the steel punchings with lead. That job, from the photos I've seen, looks like my worst nightmare. Especially since I don't have any way to lift the boat and am squeezing under the trailer. To the best of my knowledge this boat is very dry, and hasn't been in the water for over 20 years (it has 1992 registration tags). I don't currently see any signs of the keel itself swelling.
Tyler '81 M15 #157 "Defiant"
----- Original Message ----- From: "Thomas Buzzi" <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Monday, June 16, 2014 2:55:59 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Got the centerboard down!
Can't beat a force applied in just the right direction. Good on ya. What's the CB housing look like inside? Will it need some massive rebuilding to straighten it out? Thanks for the pics. I will file them away for the day I might need the idea. Good luck, Tom B.
Most of us are older than our M-boats, and if we think about it, we realize we have some bulges and not so smooth areas too. What do we expect of our aging M-boats? Steve M-15 # 335 (that's a 29 year old number) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Thomas Buzzi" <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Monday, June 16, 2014 5:14 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Got the centerboard down!
I would stay with the original surfaces on everything as per the boat was manufactured. If there is a large gap around the cb and it looks like a factory configuration filling it would not be a good idea. How was the board stuck? Was it just an accumulation of dirt and debris? They say sleeping with your fingers crossed is also a good way to avoid opening up the cb trunk.;-} I am facing the same situation with mine, a 78 model. So far though all is well. Good luck, Tom B. M17
On Mon, Jun 16, 2014 at 5:33 PM, <casioqv@usermail.com> wrote:
There's a large gap all around the inside opening of the centerboard trunk. I guess this is normal on these boats? Any suggestions on how to fill this? The "lazy" option I thought off was filling it with marine tex putty, but I'm worried that would crack over time. It doesn't look good, so I'll probably grind it smooth, fill it with thickened epoxy, and add a few layers of fiberglass cloth.
I also damaged the inside of the housing by hammering the metal rod through (to try and get the centerboard down), so there is one gash near the inside bottom about 3" long and 1/2" wide. I think I will be able to reach up far enough to lay new cloth over the hole from the inside.
I'm crossing my fingers I won't have to open up the keel itself and replace the steel punchings with lead. That job, from the photos I've seen, looks like my worst nightmare. Especially since I don't have any way to lift the boat and am squeezing under the trailer. To the best of my knowledge this boat is very dry, and hasn't been in the water for over 20 years (it has 1992 registration tags). I don't currently see any signs of the keel itself swelling.
Tyler '81 M15 #157 "Defiant"
----- Original Message ----- From: "Thomas Buzzi" <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Monday, June 16, 2014 2:55:59 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Got the centerboard down!
Can't beat a force applied in just the right direction. Good on ya. What's the CB housing look like inside? Will it need some massive rebuilding to straighten it out? Thanks for the pics. I will file them away for the day I might need the idea. Good luck, Tom B.
HA! Good point. I guess my time is up when I fall in the water and leak enough to sink. Actually the svelte lines of my M17 look a lot better than I do. Tom B, proud owner of an M17, #258 On Mon, Jun 16, 2014 at 7:25 PM, stevetrapp <stevetrapp@q.com> wrote:
Most of us are older than our M-boats, and if we think about it, we realize we have some bulges and not so smooth areas too. What do we expect of our aging M-boats? Steve M-15 # 335 (that's a 29 year old number)
----- Original Message ----- From: "Thomas Buzzi" <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman. xmission.com> Sent: Monday, June 16, 2014 5:14 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Got the centerboard down!
I would stay with the original surfaces on everything as per the boat was
manufactured. If there is a large gap around the cb and it looks like a factory configuration filling it would not be a good idea. How was the board stuck? Was it just an accumulation of dirt and debris? They say sleeping with your fingers crossed is also a good way to avoid opening up the cb trunk.;-} I am facing the same situation with mine, a 78 model. So far though all is well. Good luck, Tom B. M17
On Mon, Jun 16, 2014 at 5:33 PM, <casioqv@usermail.com> wrote:
There's a large gap all around the inside opening of the centerboard
trunk. I guess this is normal on these boats? Any suggestions on how to fill this? The "lazy" option I thought off was filling it with marine tex putty, but I'm worried that would crack over time. It doesn't look good, so I'll probably grind it smooth, fill it with thickened epoxy, and add a few layers of fiberglass cloth.
I also damaged the inside of the housing by hammering the metal rod through (to try and get the centerboard down), so there is one gash near the inside bottom about 3" long and 1/2" wide. I think I will be able to reach up far enough to lay new cloth over the hole from the inside.
I'm crossing my fingers I won't have to open up the keel itself and replace the steel punchings with lead. That job, from the photos I've seen, looks like my worst nightmare. Especially since I don't have any way to lift the boat and am squeezing under the trailer. To the best of my knowledge this boat is very dry, and hasn't been in the water for over 20 years (it has 1992 registration tags). I don't currently see any signs of the keel itself swelling.
Tyler '81 M15 #157 "Defiant"
----- Original Message ----- From: "Thomas Buzzi" <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Monday, June 16, 2014 2:55:59 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Got the centerboard down!
Can't beat a force applied in just the right direction. Good on ya. What's the CB housing look like inside? Will it need some massive rebuilding to straighten it out? Thanks for the pics. I will file them away for the day I might need the idea. Good luck, Tom B.
Hey, why do you think they call them 'Wrinkle' boats? The longer we own them, the more we start to resemble the boats we love so much!! Skip -----Original Message----- From: Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tue, Jun 17, 2014 8:51 am Subject: Re: M_Boats: Got the centerboard down! HA! Good point. I guess my time is up when I fall in the water and leak enough to sink. Actually the svelte lines of my M17 look a lot better than I do. Tom B, proud owner of an M17, #258 On Mon, Jun 16, 2014 at 7:25 PM, stevetrapp <stevetrapp@q.com> wrote:
Most of us are older than our M-boats, and if we think about it, we realize we have some bulges and not so smooth areas too. What do we expect of our aging M-boats? Steve M-15 # 335 (that's a 29 year old number)
----- Original Message ----- From: "Thomas Buzzi" <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman. xmission.com> Sent: Monday, June 16, 2014 5:14 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Got the centerboard down!
I would stay with the original surfaces on everything as per the boat was
manufactured. If there is a large gap around the cb and it looks like a factory configuration filling it would not be a good idea. How was the board stuck? Was it just an accumulation of dirt and debris? They say sleeping with your fingers crossed is also a good way to avoid opening up the cb trunk.;-} I am facing the same situation with mine, a 78 model. So far though all is well. Good luck, Tom B. M17
On Mon, Jun 16, 2014 at 5:33 PM, <casioqv@usermail.com> wrote:
There's a large gap all around the inside opening of the centerboard
trunk. I guess this is normal on these boats? Any suggestions on how to fill this? The "lazy" option I thought off was filling it with marine tex putty, but I'm worried that would crack over time. It doesn't look good, so I'll probably grind it smooth, fill it with thickened epoxy, and add a few layers of fiberglass cloth.
I also damaged the inside of the housing by hammering the metal rod through (to try and get the centerboard down), so there is one gash near the inside bottom about 3" long and 1/2" wide. I think I will be able to reach up far enough to lay new cloth over the hole from the inside.
I'm crossing my fingers I won't have to open up the keel itself and replace the steel punchings with lead. That job, from the photos I've seen, looks like my worst nightmare. Especially since I don't have any way to lift the boat and am squeezing under the trailer. To the best of my knowledge this boat is very dry, and hasn't been in the water for over 20 years (it has 1992 registration tags). I don't currently see any signs of the keel itself swelling.
Tyler '81 M15 #157 "Defiant"
----- Original Message ----- From: "Thomas Buzzi" <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Monday, June 16, 2014 2:55:59 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Got the centerboard down!
Can't beat a force applied in just the right direction. Good on ya. What's the CB housing look like inside? Will it need some massive rebuilding to straighten it out? Thanks for the pics. I will file them away for the day I might need the idea. Good luck, Tom B.
The board is swollen from internal rust, as the two half shells are split somewhat with a visible gap. There was a little mud in there but not enough to fill the clearance that was supposed to be present. Tyler '81 M15 #157 "Defiant" On Jun 16, 2014, at 5:14 PM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
I would stay with the original surfaces on everything as per the boat was manufactured. If there is a large gap around the cb and it looks like a factory configuration filling it would not be a good idea. How was the board stuck? Was it just an accumulation of dirt and debris? They say sleeping with your fingers crossed is also a good way to avoid opening up the cb trunk.;-} I am facing the same situation with mine, a 78 model. So far though all is well. Good luck, Tom B. M17
Better the board than the well. Sounds fixable under much more comfortable conditions. Good on ya. Tom B On Mon, Jun 16, 2014 at 7:34 PM, Tyler Backman <casioqv@usermail.com> wrote:
The board is swollen from internal rust, as the two half shells are split somewhat with a visible gap. There was a little mud in there but not enough to fill the clearance that was supposed to be present.
Tyler '81 M15 #157 "Defiant"
On Jun 16, 2014, at 5:14 PM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
I would stay with the original surfaces on everything as per the boat was manufactured. If there is a large gap around the cb and it looks like a factory configuration filling it would not be a good idea. How was the board stuck? Was it just an accumulation of dirt and debris? They say sleeping with your fingers crossed is also a good way to avoid opening up the cb trunk.;-} I am facing the same situation with mine, a 78 model. So far though all is well. Good luck, Tom B. M17
You can check out Sean's repair of this gap in the keel. I did the same on my 17 and 23 as Sean suspected this was the way water got into his steel ballast and swelled the keel and trapped the center board. If I remember this was where the inner liner and the keel meet and there had been some factory sealant in there that was long gone. Good luck! Robbin On 6/16/2014 6:33 PM, casioqv@usermail.com wrote:
There's a large gap all around the inside opening of the centerboard trunk. I guess this is normal on these boats? Any suggestions on how to fill this? The "lazy" option I thought off was filling it with marine tex putty, but I'm worried that would crack over time. It doesn't look good, so I'll probably grind it smooth, fill it with thickened epoxy, and add a few layers of fiberglass cloth.
I also damaged the inside of the housing by hammering the metal rod through (to try and get the centerboard down), so there is one gash near the inside bottom about 3" long and 1/2" wide. I think I will be able to reach up far enough to lay new cloth over the hole from the inside.
I'm crossing my fingers I won't have to open up the keel itself and replace the steel punchings with lead. That job, from the photos I've seen, looks like my worst nightmare. Especially since I don't have any way to lift the boat and am squeezing under the trailer. To the best of my knowledge this boat is very dry, and hasn't been in the water for over 20 years (it has 1992 registration tags). I don't currently see any signs of the keel itself swelling.
Tyler '81 M15 #157 "Defiant"
----- Original Message ----- From: "Thomas Buzzi" <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Monday, June 16, 2014 2:55:59 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Got the centerboard down!
Can't beat a force applied in just the right direction. Good on ya. What's the CB housing look like inside? Will it need some massive rebuilding to straighten it out? Thanks for the pics. I will file them away for the day I might need the idea. Good luck, Tom B.
participants (7)
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casioqv＠usermail.com -
Dave Scobie -
Robbin Roddewig -
stevetrapp -
Thomas Buzzi -
Tyler Backman
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wcampion＠aol.com