mainsheet traveler setup
Thanks to all of you with comments about car and track setups. As always you came up with several good approaches to the same end, and I will have to decide which is best. Since my track placement does not seem too bad, I might consider buying a slightly longer section of track than necessary, and cutting it so the new holes fall between the old ones, which can be plugged with epoxy. Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
Tom, Sounds like you will have plug the old holes, presumably with epoxy, then drill the new holes. At that point you will have to consider how to seal the core at the new holes. Why not not just over size the existing holes, fill with epoxy and then redrill to mount the new track? I believe you said the holes were about offset by 1/16" difference. Not sure what the cumulative "creep" would be over the length of the track, you may have to drill out a 3/4" hole to pot up with epoxy. Only drill to the bottom skin, then there will just be the existing hole going through (1/4"?). Tape the bottom, fill with resin and then drill your new holes in the epoxy. Use a good backing plate below. A piece of flat 1/8" x 3 or 4"aluminum stock, or plywood. (check your bolt length when looking at the ply thickness) Take pictures!! Bill On Thu, Feb 25, 2010 at 12:32 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Thanks to all of you with comments about car and track setups. As always you came up with several good approaches to the same end, and I will have to decide which is best. Since my track placement does not seem too bad, I might consider buying a slightly longer section of track than necessary, and cutting it so the new holes fall between the old ones, which can be plugged with epoxy.
Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
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Bill, Your method of coping with new holes slightly offset from old ones sounds ideal, but I still can't see why it would not work to trim the excess from one end of the track and re-center it so the new holes would fall a safe distance from the old ones. Wish I had a chandlery nearby so I could look at the gear in person. As for the backing plates, I gather that the force is greater than I would have guessed, so I will us them. Thanks for your suggestions. Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla On Feb 25, 2010, at 10:11 AM, Bill Wickett wrote:
Tom,
Sounds like you will have plug the old holes, presumably with epoxy, then drill the new holes. At that point you will have to consider how to seal the core at the new holes. Why not not just over size the existing holes, fill with epoxy and then redrill to mount the new track? I believe you said the holes were about offset by 1/16" difference. Not sure what the cumulative "creep" would be over the length of the track, you may have to drill out a 3/4" hole to pot up with epoxy. Only drill to the bottom skin, then there will just be the existing hole going through (1/4"?). Tape the bottom, fill with resin and then drill your new holes in the epoxy. Use a good backing plate below. A piece of flat 1/8" x 3 or 4"aluminum stock, or plywood. (check your bolt length when looking at the ply thickness)
Take pictures!!
Bill
On Thu, Feb 25, 2010 at 12:32 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Thanks to all of you with comments about car and track setups. As always you came up with several good approaches to the same end, and I will have to decide which is best. Since my track placement does not seem too bad, I might consider buying a slightly longer section of track than necessary, and cutting it so the new holes fall between the old ones, which can be plugged with epoxy.
Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
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Tom, As I recall the shortest length of track you can buy for the windward sheeting car is something like 3 ft. Anyways, after off-setting the holes between the new and old tracks I had a foot or so of left over. As I recall my original setup had regular washers and locknuts on the underside of the cockpit and I replaced them with the largest stainless steel fender washers I could find. Randy On Thu, Feb 25, 2010 at 11:01 AM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Bill, Your method of coping with new holes slightly offset from old ones sounds ideal, but I still can't see why it would not work to trim the excess from one end of the track and re-center it so the new holes would fall a safe distance from the old ones. Wish I had a chandlery nearby so I could look at the gear in person. As for the backing plates, I gather that the force is greater than I would have guessed, so I will us them. Thanks for your suggestions. Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
On Feb 25, 2010, at 10:11 AM, Bill Wickett wrote:
Tom,
Sounds like you will have plug the old holes, presumably with epoxy, then drill the new holes. At that point you will have to consider how to seal the core at the new holes. Why not not just over size the existing holes, fill with epoxy and then redrill to mount the new track? I believe you said the holes were about offset by 1/16" difference. Not sure what the cumulative "creep" would be over the length of the track, you may have to drill out a 3/4" hole to pot up with epoxy. Only drill to the bottom skin, then there will just be the existing hole going through (1/4"?). Tape the bottom, fill with resin and then drill your new holes in the epoxy. Use a good backing plate below. A piece of flat 1/8" x 3 or 4"aluminum stock, or plywood. (check your bolt length when looking at the ply thickness)
Take pictures!!
Bill
On Thu, Feb 25, 2010 at 12:32 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Thanks to all of you with comments about car and track setups. As always you came up with several good approaches to the same end, and I will have to decide which is best. Since my track placement does not seem too bad, I might consider buying a slightly longer section of track than necessary, and cutting it so the new holes fall between the old ones, which can be plugged with epoxy.
Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
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Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
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Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
Randy, 1.5" stainless fender washers might indeed be big enough; good thought. I have been looking at Harken gear, and they sell a 600 mm (23.6") track, comparable to the 22.25" original T track. According to my visualization, whacking off the extra 1-3/8" and using the specified #10 machine screws would leave almost 1/2" between the edges of the old and new holes, and the old (epoxy plugged) hole would be covered by the fender washer. Not ideal, but maybe adequate. Depends on how well epoxy binds to the old hole, which I have always assumed was pretty well. Thanks, Tom On Feb 25, 2010, at 11:53 AM, R.K.Graves wrote:
Tom,
As I recall the shortest length of track you can buy for the windward sheeting car is something like 3 ft. Anyways, after off-setting the holes between the new and old tracks I had a foot or so of left over. As I recall my original setup had regular washers and locknuts on the underside of the cockpit and I replaced them with the largest stainless steel fender washers I could find.
Randy
On Thu, Feb 25, 2010 at 11:01 AM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Bill, Your method of coping with new holes slightly offset from old ones sounds ideal, but I still can't see why it would not work to trim the excess from one end of the track and re-center it so the new holes would fall a safe distance from the old ones. Wish I had a chandlery nearby so I could look at the gear in person. As for the backing plates, I gather that the force is greater than I would have guessed, so I will us them. Thanks for your suggestions. Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
On Feb 25, 2010, at 10:11 AM, Bill Wickett wrote:
Tom,
Sounds like you will have plug the old holes, presumably with epoxy, then drill the new holes. At that point you will have to consider how to seal the core at the new holes. Why not not just over size the existing holes, fill with epoxy and then redrill to mount the new track? I believe you said the holes were about offset by 1/16" difference. Not sure what the cumulative "creep" would be over the length of the track, you may have to drill out a 3/4" hole to pot up with epoxy. Only drill to the bottom skin, then there will just be the existing hole going through (1/4"?). Tape the bottom, fill with resin and then drill your new holes in the epoxy. Use a good backing plate below. A piece of flat 1/8" x 3 or 4"aluminum stock, or plywood. (check your bolt length when looking at the ply thickness)
Take pictures!!
Bill
On Thu, Feb 25, 2010 at 12:32 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Thanks to all of you with comments about car and track setups. As always you came up with several good approaches to the same end, and I will have to decide which is best. Since my track placement does not seem too bad, I might consider buying a slightly longer section of track than necessary, and cutting it so the new holes fall between the old ones, which can be plugged with epoxy.
Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/ montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/ montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
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Guess I was trying to save you buying a longer track than necessary. My cheap! Also you would be filling 2 sets of holes with epoxy with your method, vs 1 for mine. I would recommend filling and redrilling in epoxy any new holes you make. Better chance of protecting the core plywood. 7 holes in the old track. 7 chances of moisture ingress. Bill On Thu, Feb 25, 2010 at 2:01 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Bill, Your method of coping with new holes slightly offset from old ones sounds ideal, but I still can't see why it would not work to trim the excess from one end of the track and re-center it so the new holes would fall a safe distance from the old ones. Wish I had a chandlery nearby so I could look at the gear in person. As for the backing plates, I gather that the force is greater than I would have guessed, so I will us them. Thanks for your suggestions. Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
On Feb 25, 2010, at 10:11 AM, Bill Wickett wrote:
Tom,
Sounds like you will have plug the old holes, presumably with epoxy, then drill the new holes. At that point you will have to consider how to seal the core at the new holes. Why not not just over size the existing holes, fill with epoxy and then redrill to mount the new track? I believe you said the holes were about offset by 1/16" difference. Not sure what the cumulative "creep" would be over the length of the track, you may have to drill out a 3/4" hole to pot up with epoxy. Only drill to the bottom skin, then there will just be the existing hole going through (1/4"?). Tape the bottom, fill with resin and then drill your new holes in the epoxy. Use a good backing plate below. A piece of flat 1/8" x 3 or 4"aluminum stock, or plywood. (check your bolt length when looking at the ply thickness)
Take pictures!!
Bill
On Thu, Feb 25, 2010 at 12:32 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Thanks to all of you with comments about car and track setups. As always
you came up with several good approaches to the same end, and I will have to decide which is best. Since my track placement does not seem too bad, I might consider buying a slightly longer section of track than necessary, and cutting it so the new holes fall between the old ones, which can be plugged with epoxy.
Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
Bill, Interesting idea. I think you are saying that epoxy bonds better to a glass/wood sandwich than caulking (e.g. Life Caulk or equivalent) does. I have had good luck with caulking on stanchion bolts through a balsa-cored deck, but you may have a superior technique for a broad range of conditions. Tom Jenkins Scintillla Guess I was trying to save you buying a longer track than necessary. My
cheap!
Also you would be filling 2 sets of holes with epoxy with your method, vs 1 for mine. I would recommend filling and redrilling in epoxy any new holes you make. Better chance of protecting the core plywood.
7 holes in the old track. 7 chances of moisture ingress.
Bill
On Thu, Feb 25, 2010 at 2:01 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Bill, Your method of coping with new holes slightly offset from old ones sounds ideal, but I still can't see why it would not work to trim the excess from one end of the track and re-center it so the new holes would fall a safe distance from the old ones. Wish I had a chandlery nearby so I could look at the gear in person. As for the backing plates, I gather that the force is greater than I would have guessed, so I will us them. Thanks for your suggestions. Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
On Feb 25, 2010, at 10:11 AM, Bill Wickett wrote:
Tom,
Sounds like you will have plug the old holes, presumably with epoxy, then drill the new holes. At that point you will have to consider how to seal the core at the new holes. Why not not just over size the existing holes, fill with epoxy and then redrill to mount the new track? I believe you said the holes were about offset by 1/16" difference. Not sure what the cumulative "creep" would be over the length of the track, you may have to drill out a 3/4" hole to pot up with epoxy. Only drill to the bottom skin, then there will just be the existing hole going through (1/4"?). Tape the bottom, fill with resin and then drill your new holes in the epoxy. Use a good backing plate below. A piece of flat 1/8" x 3 or 4"aluminum stock, or plywood. (check your bolt length when looking at the ply thickness)
Take pictures!!
Bill
On Thu, Feb 25, 2010 at 12:32 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Thanks to all of you with comments about car and track setups. As always
you came up with several good approaches to the same end, and I will have to decide which is best. Since my track placement does not seem too bad, I might consider buying a slightly longer section of track than necessary, and cutting it so the new holes fall between the old ones, which can be plugged with epoxy.
Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/ montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/ montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
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participants (3)
-
Bill Wickett -
R.K.Graves -
Tom Jenkins