Wrinkle Boat Mates One on my projects getting ready for the new sailing season here in NWI is boat trim. I have been thinking of adding weight in the form of a cinder block (40 lbs) in the forward compartment under the V berth, secured to the wall of the compartment using a battery tie down system. I have 2 questions 1. Is the 40 lbs enough to counter the engine (36lbs) and skipper (200+) on a solo sail? 2. Should I position the long length of the block along the beam or the centerline (more weight forward) of the boat? Any and all comments are appreciated. HAPPY SAILING SEASON George Merry Helen II 96 M15 #602
I hate the notion of extra weight for sure. First, why not eliminate the heavy engine? Either a smaller engine, an electric trolling motor, or engineless sailing, which is best(!). I try to do that when I can, though I do know that the engine sometimes gives a bit of safety. But, I think more importantly at 200 lbs you can sail with a tiller extension and sit right at the companionway amidships. That will balance the boat fore and aft, and achieve what you want. The M15 sails best in my opinion flat that way. I sail solo most of the time, and I weigh about 160. Right at the companionway is a nice spot to be, but you can’t stay there without a tiller extension. My Honda outboard weighs around 25, and with me at the companionway the boat is flat fore to aft, and on her lines. Sails great that way. I would not put ballast forward. Daniel Rich M15 #208 "Kestrel" danielgrich@gmail.com
On Mar 21, 2015, at 6:46 PM, George Iemmolo <griemmolo2@gmail.com> wrote:
Wrinkle Boat Mates
One on my projects getting ready for the new sailing season here in NWI is boat trim. I have been thinking of adding weight in the form of a cinder block (40 lbs) in the forward compartment under the V berth, secured to the wall of the compartment using a battery tie down system. I have 2 questions
1. Is the 40 lbs enough to counter the engine (36lbs) and skipper (200+) on a solo sail?
2. Should I position the long length of the block along the beam or the centerline (more weight forward) of the boat?
Any and all comments are appreciated.
HAPPY SAILING SEASON
George
Merry Helen II
96 M15 #602
I’ve also been trying to reduce weight from the stern instead of adding to the bow to get the boat to perform best and it seems to help. I have a 12lb Cruise’N’Carry which kinda “qualifies" as a motor for races or marinas but I just use a long canoe oar when there’s no wind. The M15 glides along at about 2.5 knots without much effort in a dead calm. I threw the entire electrical system in a dumpster and carry just one 5lb anchor in the very front of the Vberth. Tyler Davis, CA M15 #157 "Defiant"
On Mar 21, 2015, at 6:54 PM, Daniel Rich <danielgrich@gmail.com> wrote:
I hate the notion of extra weight for sure.
First, why not eliminate the heavy engine? Either a smaller engine, an electric trolling motor, or engineless sailing, which is best(!). I try to do that when I can, though I do know that the engine sometimes gives a bit of safety.
But, I think more importantly at 200 lbs you can sail with a tiller extension and sit right at the companionway amidships. That will balance the boat fore and aft, and achieve what you want. The M15 sails best in my opinion flat that way. I sail solo most of the time, and I weigh about 160. Right at the companionway is a nice spot to be, but you can’t stay there without a tiller extension. My Honda outboard weighs around 25, and with me at the companionway the boat is flat fore to aft, and on her lines. Sails great that way. I would not put ballast forward.
Daniel Rich M15 #208 "Kestrel" danielgrich@gmail.com
Hello All,from under the persistent Canadian snow drifts. I agree 100% with Daniel. Getting comfortable with a rudder extension takes a little getting used to ,but it is the way to go for a balanced,efficient sail. Regards to all. RTH. From: Daniel Rich Sent: Saturday, March 21, 2015 9:54 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Weight Distributio I hate the notion of extra weight for sure. First, why not eliminate the heavy engine? Either a smaller engine, an electric trolling motor, or engineless sailing, which is best(!). I try to do that when I can, though I do know that the engine sometimes gives a bit of safety. But, I think more importantly at 200 lbs you can sail with a tiller extension and sit right at the companionway amidships. That will balance the boat fore and aft, and achieve what you want. The M15 sails best in my opinion flat that way. I sail solo most of the time, and I weigh about 160. Right at the companionway is a nice spot to be, but you can’t stay there without a tiller extension. My Honda outboard weighs around 25, and with me at the companionway the boat is flat fore to aft, and on her lines. Sails great that way. I would not put ballast forward. Daniel Rich M15 #208 "Kestrel" danielgrich@gmail.com
On Mar 21, 2015, at 6:46 PM, George Iemmolo <griemmolo2@gmail.com> wrote:
Wrinkle Boat Mates
One on my projects getting ready for the new sailing season here in NWI is boat trim. I have been thinking of adding weight in the form of a cinder block (40 lbs) in the forward compartment under the V berth, secured to the wall of the compartment using a battery tie down system. I have 2 questions
1. Is the 40 lbs enough to counter the engine (36lbs) and skipper (200+) on a solo sail?
2. Should I position the long length of the block along the beam or the centerline (more weight forward) of the boat?
Any and all comments are appreciated.
HAPPY SAILING SEASON
George
Merry Helen II
96 M15 #602
Thanks to Daniel, Connie, Tyler and Robert for the feed back regarding Trim and Weight distribution. I will take the comment regarding NO Cinderblock seriously. All the other recommendations will be considered. I was thinking about the longer tiller and have looked at one a bit pricey. I will look at the extension of the tiller as a better way to go. I have a tiller extender that fits the bill. If necessary to get the bow down I will look at water filled jugs in the bow. I will keep you posted after splash on May 15th as that is the day the docks go in on Pine Lake located in LaPort, IN. -----Original Message-----
On 3/22/2015 8:05 PM, George Iemmolo wrote: Hi George, The tiller extension alone doesn't work very well because if you sit all the way forward in the cockpit, the tiller extension will be at about a 120 degree angle between the tiller end and your hand. When you want to push or pull on the tiller you want as close to a 90 degree angle between tiller and tiller extension and your hand as possible. That is why the longer tiller is needed. The end of the tiller is then much further forward, close to where you are now sitting, and the tiller extension operates at maximum efficiency giving you a 90 degree angle, so when you push and pull on the tiller it functions optimally. I made my own longer tiller. T'ain't hard to do if you have any woodworking capabilities and a few tools. Another approach to consider; and this might be the better one, would be to dream up a tube to fit over the end of the present tiller that gives you the length you need. My thought was to make one out of fiberglass molded around the existing tiller (so that you have a sung fit). But my first longer tiller worked nicely so I didn't go to design No. 2. Connie
Thanks to Daniel, Connie, Tyler and Robert for the feed back regarding Trim and Weight distribution. I will take the comment regarding NO Cinderblock seriously. All the other recommendations will be considered. I was thinking about the longer tiller and have looked at one a bit pricey. I will look at the extension of the tiller as a better way to go. I have a tiller extender that fits the bill. If necessary to get the bow down I will look at water filled jugs in the bow.
I will keep you posted after splash on May 15th as that is the day the docks go in on Pine Lake located in LaPort, IN.
-----Original Message-----
John Owens, of JOWoodworks, makes a longer tiller for the M15. I always sat just at the cockpit-to-cabin bulkhead when sailing my M15 and never had problem using a tiller extension on a 'standard length' M15 tiller. the drawback to a longer tiller is it can get in the way if you sail with crew ... making it difficult to come about and having enough space foward of the tiller for multiple people to switch cockpit sides. -- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
Thanks to Daniel, Connie, Tyler and Robert for the feed back regarding
Trim and Weight distribution. I will take the comment regarding NO Cinderblock seriously. All the other recommendations will be considered. I was thinking about the longer tiller and have looked at one a bit pricey. I will look at the extension of the tiller as a better way to go. I have a tiller extender that fits the bill. If necessary to get the bow down I will look at water filled jugs in the bow.
I will keep you posted after splash on May 15th as that is the day the docks go in on Pine Lake located in LaPort, IN.
On 3/23/2015 9:35 AM, Dave Scobie wrote: Hi Dave, You say, " the drawback to a longer tiller is it can get in the way if you sail with crew. That is true, so the ideal solution to the single-handing or sailing with crew problem is to have a regular length tiller, but with some "insert-able", or a fold over-on-itself extender so you can have it both ways: shorter when you have others on board; or longer when sailing by yourself. Connie
John Owens, of JOWoodworks, makes a longer tiller for the M15.
I always sat just at the cockpit-to-cabin bulkhead when sailing my M15 and never had problem using a tiller extension on a 'standard length' M15 tiller.
the drawback to a longer tiller is it can get in the way if you sail with crew ... making it difficult to come about and having enough space foward of the tiller for multiple people to switch cockpit sides.
that provided a 90 degree push-pulltwo On 3/21/2015 6:46 PM, George Iemmolo wrote:
Good Morning Wrinkle-Boat George,
Repeat slowly at least five times after reading this: No Cinder Block as ballast on board an M-15 ..... Why? - In a M-15 weight is your enemy in achieving good performance. - You can not afford to have something on board that is of absolutely no use to boat operation, to boat safety, or boat housekeeping. - Your cinder block "may" may only be useful if you are attacked by a hungry Krakken. If you throw it to him, he may swallow it and then leave you alone. The chances of that ever happening are so remote, however, that it isn't worth carrying a cinder block around forever and ever. Question: - Are you sailing using the original M-15 tiller? If so, then you are probably sitting in the middle of the cockpit and the transom is dragging in the water. That is BAD for sailing performance. Remedy: - First, move as far forward in the cockpit as you can. This will require: A) a new longer tiller, or B) some clever means of lengthening the original tiller so that you can use it in either its original length or in the extended length, that allows you to sit at the optimum location for solo sailing. (That is what I did and I weighed 170 lbs) - You will also need something like a Forespar Telescopic Tiller Extension mounted at the forward end of the long tiller so that you can sit comfortably at your new position and have a 90 degree push-pull input without having to strain to reach your tiller. With this combination; the longer tiller allowing you to sit as far forward in the cockpit as possible, plus the Forespar extension, you will go a long ways toward solving your boat longitudinal trim problem. - Next steps: If you carry a storm anchor ( I had a 7 lb Fortress, with 10 feet of chain and a 200 foot rode) put it in the forward compartment. It adds weight where weight is needed, and you are carrying a very nice "insurance policy" in case you ever find yourself anchoring in miserable conditions. You may never use it, but it's worth carrying for the feeling of added security it give you - If you have an electrical system on board, the battery could be moved forward as well. Any heavy items that are moved forward lift the transom out of the water. - Another approach would be to fill two empty gallon milk containers with drinking water. They will weigh less than your cinder block, but you can place them all the way forward at the bow, and the longer lever arm ( weight X distance from the CG) might be all the trim that you need. Krakkens, however, don't eat plastic containers, if that remains a worry.r Your aim is to keep the transom from being submerged in the water. Then the M-15 is sailing properly and you have minimized transom drag to 0. Messing About in Boats is fun isn't it? Happy sailing Connie ex M-15 #400 LEPPO One on my projects getting ready for the new sailing season here in NWI is boat trim. I have been thinking of adding weight in the form of a cinder block (40 lbs) in the forward compartment under the V berth, secured to the wall of the compartment using a battery tie down system. I have 2 questions 1. Is the 40 lbs enough to counter the engine (36lbs) and skipper (200+) on a solo sail? 2. Should I position the long length of the block along the beam or the centerline (more weight forward) of the boat? Any and all comments are appreciated. HAPPY SAILING SEASON George Merry Helen II 96 M15 #602
participants (6)
-
Conbert Benneck -
Daniel Rich -
Dave Scobie -
George Iemmolo -
Robert Hall -
Tyler Backman