Tom, I used Cetol on my M15 teak. The keys seem to be: 1. Clean the teak as thoroughly as possible. I used (with much care) deck stripper using a old paint brush followed by a putty knife or shaped woodworking scrapers. It took a while. The use a small stiff nylon brush to get in the crevasses to get out as much of the black, dead algae and moss as possible. You won't get it all out, but that's OK, it's a boat, not a china hutch. If you have to. some very, very light sanding by hand or finishing sander is OK if needed, followed by fine bronze wool. Tack off well with tack rag each time. Do not use steel wool. Teak is surprisingly soft and sands easily so be careful to maintain the edges. 2. Clean and wash off well and let dry until bone dry. 3. Go over lightly with fine bonze wool to take off any raised fibers. Wipe off well with tack rag. 4. Get some painters tape and plastic sheeting and mask/cover very carefully. Take your time. Whatever is left uncovered will get will get Cetol on it. Bet on it. 3. Buy a really good 1 -1/2 or 2 inch trim brush. About 20 dollars, but it will be worth it. You don't have to clean the brush each day, just wrap it in plastic food wrap. 4. I put on about 7 coats, one light coat a day, of Cetol. Flow it on like lacquerer or enamel, do not brush it in. Let dry 24 hours between coats. On occasion I rubbed it gently with fine bronze wool if there seemed to be any roughing of the surface. Tack off well. I did all this in my garage to avoid the Cetol picking up windblown dust and airborne debris. 5. I then put on 5 Coats of Cetol clear gloss. 6. Let it sit for a day and remove the tape and plastic. You can buy all but Cetol at the Ace Hardware store. Looks great. JOHN Salem, OR M15 Slip Knot
Jeez John, I want you to do my trim in the future. Good step by step description. I do maybe a quarter of what you do. 12 coats total? If I get to three I'm lucky. But I'll bet yours looks great. Finally, I avoid close inspection of the finished product by being faster than everybody else ;-). Except sometimes Larry. And Randy. Thanks again. t On Fri, Jul 24, 2009 at 10:16 AM, John Ledger<johnledger@aoi.org> wrote:
Tom,
I used Cetol on my M15 teak. The keys seem to be:
1. Clean the teak as thoroughly as possible. I used (with much care) deck stripper using a old paint brush followed by a putty knife or shaped woodworking scrapers. It took a while. The use a small stiff nylon brush to get in the crevasses to get out as much of the black, dead algae and moss as possible. You won't get it all out, but that's OK, it's a boat, not a china hutch. If you have to. some very, very light sanding by hand or finishing sander is OK if needed, followed by fine bronze wool. Tack off well with tack rag each time. Do not use steel wool. Teak is surprisingly soft and sands easily so be careful to maintain the edges.
2. Clean and wash off well and let dry until bone dry.
3. Go over lightly with fine bonze wool to take off any raised fibers. Wipe off well with tack rag.
4. Get some painters tape and plastic sheeting and mask/cover very carefully. Take your time. Whatever is left uncovered will get will get Cetol on it. Bet on it.
3. Buy a really good 1 -1/2 or 2 inch trim brush. About 20 dollars, but it will be worth it. You don't have to clean the brush each day, just wrap it in plastic food wrap.
4. I put on about 7 coats, one light coat a day, of Cetol. Flow it on like lacquerer or enamel, do not brush it in. Let dry 24 hours between coats. On occasion I rubbed it gently with fine bronze wool if there seemed to be any roughing of the surface. Tack off well. I did all this in my garage to avoid the Cetol picking up windblown dust and airborne debris.
5. I then put on 5 Coats of Cetol clear gloss.
6. Let it sit for a day and remove the tape and plastic.
You can buy all but Cetol at the Ace Hardware store.
Looks great.
JOHN Salem, OR
M15 Slip Knot
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participants (2)
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John Ledger -
Tom Smith