M-17 Centerboard Rope
I have just purchased a 1977 Montgomery 17...boat number 250. The centerboard is lowered out of the shoal keel by a rope which protrudes up through the cockpit sole just in front of and outside of the companion way hatch and coils around a vertically mounted sheet winch. The rope is badly frayed just at the point where it exits the cockpit sole when the board is in the fully raised position. Has anyone had any experience replacing such a rope. I want to know what I can expect when I have the boat lifted. After lifting the boat and lowering the board, I understand there is a pin at the rear of the board which must be hammered out in order for the board to drop clear of the keel enough to unfasten the rope from the pennant attached to the board. Any information as to the exact procedure and what to expect will be greatly appreciated. Phil Barilla
Hi Phil, this is a favorite past time of M-17 owners. See the photo essays at http://www.msogphotosite.com/M17MM.html regarding centerboard maintenance. I have it on my to do list this winter as the sandblast and coating a season ago apparently did not last. I believe there is some advice from Jerry M about how to core the rope when replacing the rope for the centerboard. I did this on my M-15 but I cannot remember where I saw the advice. Robbin philbarilla@peoplepc.com wrote:
I have just purchased a 1977 Montgomery 17...boat number 250. The centerboard is lowered out of the shoal keel by a rope which protrudes up through the cockpit sole just in front of and outside of the companion way hatch and coils around a vertically mounted sheet winch. The rope is badly frayed just at the point where it exits the cockpit sole when the board is in the fully raised position. Has anyone had any experience replacing such a rope. I want to know what I can expect when I have the boat lifted. After lifting the boat and lowering the board, I understand there is a pin at the rear of the board which must be hammered out in order for the board to drop clear of the keel enough to unfasten the rope from the pennant attached to the board. Any information as to the exact procedure and what to expect will be greatly appreciated.
Phil Barilla _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
I happened to notice your winch maintenance images on the msogphotosite....then looked at the shots of your boat from there.....love the pole cam shots ~:0)..... What I was wondering is how the LazyBoy bench seat extension is working out? http://www.msogphotosite.com/MSOG/b17busca/b17busca5.jpg My winter project list includes a LazyBoy mod....so with your already considerable experience in this area would you do anything different or make any recommendations? Improving this area would add a new level of decandent luxury to the interior of my 17. Oh and the padded compression post is a must as well.....I still have some bruises from a rough night a while back. ....and speaking of polecam shots....I noticed on Youtube a chap that had designed and built a kite that was able to suspend a small video camera. The images of his sailboat under way were great fun. Cheers, Tim D in Kelowna BC
Hi, Tim The Lazyboy seat is comfortable and I've stumbled upon a second, always desirable use for the cushions: If I stack them a certain way they come to the right height to form an extension for the v-berth (assuming I'm sleeping on the stbd side, which I've been doing lately). The one drawback can sometimes seem a serious one, though. The cushions, when not in use, do tend to get in the way. The less clutter and more accessible things are, the more pleasant life aboard. If you decide to make it, I'd suggest going with the high-density foam and even then remember that the quarterberth is mostly made of the incompressible part so you'll need to make the extension somewhat higher because it will compress, putting you even with the rest of the settee if you've allowed enough. I almost got it perfect; could've maybe had the foam extension a half-inch or so higher. There might be another way to skin this cat that would avoid the space-consuming foam blocks, I don't know, but it is probably worth some thought. ************ Oh yes, the kite video. I believe that is a Dana 24 he's sailing. Yves Gilenas (sp?) of Cape Horn windvane fame, did the same thing some years earlier for his round-the-world trip in Jean-du-Sud, an Alberg 30. Tod Mills M17 #408, 1987 galley model BuscaBrisas No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.8/1064 - Release Date: 10/11/2007 3:09 PM
The Lazyboy seat is comfortable and I've stumbled upon a second, always desirable use for the cushions: If I stack them a certain way they come to the right height to form an extension for the v-berth (assuming I'm sleeping on the stbd side, which I've been doing lately).
Great, a bit of a bonus for sure. I have always slept on the strbd side myself. Like you, I have the galley model. But in my case I made a storage box/ drawer unit for the area that would normally hold a stove. I bump my head on it if I sleep over on that side. When my wife sleeps aboard, she tends to prefer the cockpit....some silly issue about claustraphobia.....and I suspect my snoring is a factor there as well.
The one drawback can sometimes seem a serious one, though. The cushions, when not in use, do tend to get in the way. The less clutter and more accessible things are, the more pleasant life aboard.
Agreed. But I have a ton of cusions on board anyway....one more won't make much difference. (I already made a back unit for the projected Lazyboy area)
There might be another way to skin this cat that would avoid the space-consuming foam blocks, I don't know, but it is probably worth some thought.
Great advice, thanks for the speedy reply.
Cheers.
Phil, I also have a 1977 model, hull 265 (I think). I had the same problem except my board was stuck in the up position. First let me caution you! If the pendant should break, the board dropping could cause some damage, it is one heavy sucker, so be very careful. Obviously the boat will have to out of the water (unless you have scuba gear) and off the trailer so the keel can swing free. The bottom of the fixed keel will have to be about 24-28 inches above the ground. I built 2 big horses to support the boat while I did the work. A farmer friend helped me lift the boat (a front end loader and slings) , slide the trailer away and set her back on the horses. Once she was on the horses and cradled good, I worked the centerboard loose with a prybar while supporting the board with blocking (never work under the c-board without blocking, if it fell it could kill you). With help from my friend, I was able to drop the board a few inches at a time until it came down to where the hook on the c-board catches the pin at the aft end of the trunk. The pin (in my boat) is a 1/4" bolt which came out pretty easy but again, you must keep the c-board blocked to keep it from falling when the pin is removed. Once the pin was out the board came down all the way, exposing the connection. I my case, I found that the shackle had corroded and that the pendant was not even connected (the only thing holding the c-board was barnicles in the trunk ( a close call for sure). I had an additional problem in that the shackle connecting the hole in the c-board to the pendant was both to wide and too long as it caught in the trunk and hit the top before the c-board was full retracted. I would recommend you check both aspects. On my first try, I bought a new lanyard of 3/8" braid (with an eye) but found that it jammed in the trunk hole when the fat part of the eye splice tried to come thru. I ended up with 1/4" braid. Unfortunately I did not take any pictures of the whole process (wish I had) but am happy to share my experience. Kind regards and good luck, Arnold Sharpe, M-17,"LITTLE BREEZE" On Oct 10, 2007, at 6:47 PM, philbarilla@peoplepc.com wrote:
I have just purchased a 1977 Montgomery 17...boat number 250. The centerboard is lowered out of the shoal keel by a rope which protrudes up through the cockpit sole just in front of and outside of the companion way hatch and coils around a vertically mounted sheet winch. The rope is badly frayed just at the point where it exits the cockpit sole when the board is in the fully raised position. Has anyone had any experience replacing such a rope. I want to know what I can expect when I have the boat lifted. After lifting the boat and lowering the board, I understand there is a pin at the rear of the board which must be hammered out in order for the board to drop clear of the keel enough to unfasten the rope from the pennant attached to the board. Any information as to the exact procedure and what to expect will be greatly appreciated.
Phil Barilla _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Thanks for the tip Arnold...I also check some stuff on the msogphotosite. I am amazed at the ingenuity of folks in doing this kind of work on their boats. Reminds me of Joshua Slocum's exploits in using jacks and logs to move his boat up to the highest lake in the world in South America. Phil Barilla ----- Original Message ----- From: "Arnold Sharpe" <afsharpe@mac.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 5:20 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: M-17 Centerboard Rope
Phil, I also have a 1977 model, hull 265 (I think). I had the same problem except my board was stuck in the up position. First let me caution you! If the pendant should break, the board dropping could cause some damage, it is one heavy sucker, so be very careful. Obviously the boat will have to out of the water (unless you have scuba gear) and off the trailer so the keel can swing free. The bottom of the fixed keel will have to be about 24-28 inches above the ground. I built 2 big horses to support the boat while I did the work. A farmer friend helped me lift the boat (a front end loader and slings) , slide the trailer away and set her back on the horses. Once she was on the horses and cradled good, I worked the centerboard loose with a prybar while supporting the board with blocking (never work under the c-board without blocking, if it fell it could kill you). With help from my friend, I was able to drop the board a few inches at a time until it came down to where the hook on the c-board catches the pin at the aft end of the trunk. The pin (in my boat) is a 1/4" bolt which came out pretty easy but again, you must keep the c-board blocked to keep it from falling when the pin is removed. Once the pin was out the board came down all the way, exposing the connection. I my case, I found that the shackle had corroded and that the pendant was not even connected (the only thing holding the c-board was barnicles in the trunk ( a close call for sure). I had an additional problem in that the shackle connecting the hole in the c-board to the pendant was both to wide and too long as it caught in the trunk and hit the top before the c-board was full retracted. I would recommend you check both aspects. On my first try, I bought a new lanyard of 3/8" braid (with an eye) but found that it jammed in the trunk hole when the fat part of the eye splice tried to come thru. I ended up with 1/4" braid. Unfortunately I did not take any pictures of the whole process (wish I had) but am happy to share my experience. Kind regards and good luck, Arnold Sharpe, M-17,"LITTLE BREEZE" On Oct 10, 2007, at 6:47 PM, philbarilla@peoplepc.com wrote:
I have just purchased a 1977 Montgomery 17...boat number 250. The centerboard is lowered out of the shoal keel by a rope which protrudes up through the cockpit sole just in front of and outside of the companion way hatch and coils around a vertically mounted sheet winch. The rope is badly frayed just at the point where it exits the cockpit sole when the board is in the fully raised position. Has anyone had any experience replacing such a rope. I want to know what I can expect when I have the boat lifted. After lifting the boat and lowering the board, I understand there is a pin at the rear of the board which must be hammered out in order for the board to drop clear of the keel enough to unfasten the rope from the pennant attached to the board. Any information as to the exact procedure and what to expect will be greatly appreciated.
Phil Barilla _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
I found good luck by just digging a hole under the keel to lower the centerboard and change the lifting penent. My boat was kept in a covered stall with a dirt floor, so it was easy.> From: philbarilla@peoplepc.com> To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 10:10:55 -0400> Subject: Re: M_Boats: M-17 Centerboard Rope> > Thanks for the tip Arnold...I also check some stuff on the msogphotosite. I> am amazed at the ingenuity of folks in doing this kind of work on their> boats. Reminds me of Joshua Slocum's exploits in using jacks and logs to> move his boat up to the highest lake in the world in South America.> > Phil Barilla> ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Arnold Sharpe" <afsharpe@mac.com>> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats"> <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com>> Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 5:20 PM> Subject: Re: M_Boats: M-17 Centerboard Rope> > > > Phil,> > I also have a 1977 model, hull 265 (I think). I had the same problem> > except my board was stuck in the up position. First let me caution> > you! If the pendant should break, the board dropping could cause some> > damage, it is one heavy sucker, so be very careful.> > Obviously the boat will have to out of the water (unless you have scuba> > gear) and off the trailer so the keel can swing free. The bottom of> > the fixed keel will have to be about 24-28 inches above the ground. I> > built 2 big horses to support the boat while I did the work. A farmer> > friend helped me lift the boat (a front end loader and slings) , slide> > the trailer away and set her back on the horses. Once she was on the> > horses and cradled good, I worked the centerboard loose with a prybar> > while supporting the board with blocking (never work under the c-board> > without blocking, if it fell it could kill you). With help from my> > friend, I was able to drop the board a few inches at a time until it> > came down to where the hook on the c-board catches the pin at the aft> > end of the trunk. The pin (in my boat) is a 1/4" bolt which came out> > pretty easy but again, you must keep the c-board blocked to keep it> > from falling when the pin is removed. Once the pin was out the board> > came down all the way, exposing the connection. I my case, I found> > that the shackle had corroded and that the pendant was not even> > connected (the only thing holding the c-board was barnicles in the> > trunk ( a close call for sure). I had an additional problem in that> > the shackle connecting the hole in the c-board to the pendant was both> > to wide and too long as it caught in the trunk and hit the top before> > the c-board was full retracted. I would recommend you check both> > aspects. On my first try, I bought a new lanyard of 3/8" braid (with> > an eye) but found that it jammed in the trunk hole when the fat part of> > the eye splice tried to come thru. I ended up with 1/4" braid.> > Unfortunately I did not take any pictures of the whole process (wish> > I had) but am happy to share my experience. Kind regards and good> > luck, Arnold Sharpe, M-17,"LITTLE BREEZE"> > On Oct 10, 2007, at 6:47 PM, philbarilla@peoplepc.com wrote:> >> > > I have just purchased a 1977 Montgomery 17...boat number 250. The> > > centerboard is lowered out of the shoal keel by a rope which protrudes> > > up through the cockpit sole just in front of and outside of the> > > companion way hatch and coils around a vertically mounted sheet winch.> > > The rope is badly frayed just at the point where it exits the cockpit> > > sole when the board is in the fully raised position. Has anyone had> > > any experience replacing such a rope. I want to know what I can expect> > > when I have the boat lifted. After lifting the boat and lowering the> > > board, I understand there is a pin at the rear of the board which must> > > be hammered out in order for the board to drop clear of the keel> > > enough to unfasten the rope from the pennant attached to the board.> > > Any information as to the exact procedure and what to expect will be> > > greatly appreciated.> > >> > > Phil Barilla> > > _______________________________________________> > > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats> >> >> > _______________________________________________> > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats> > > _______________________________________________> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats _________________________________________________________________ Express yourself with the latest Windows Live Messenger! Get it free today! http://www.get.live.com/wl/all
Bill...you get the combined prize for ingenuity and simplicity...I luv it...... ----- Original Message ----- From: "bill safford" <free_willy62@hotmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 11:08 AM Subject: RE: M_Boats: M-17 Centerboard Rope
I found good luck by just digging a hole under the keel to lower the
centerboard and change the lifting penent. My boat was kept in a covered stall with a dirt floor, so it was easy.> From: philbarilla@peoplepc.com> To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 10:10:55 -0400> Subject: Re: M_Boats: M-17 Centerboard Rope> > Thanks for the tip Arnold...I also check some stuff on the msogphotosite. I> am amazed at the ingenuity of folks in doing this kind of work on their> boats. Reminds me of Joshua Slocum's exploits in using jacks and logs to> move his boat up to the highest lake in the world in South America.> > Phil Barilla> ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Arnold Sharpe" <afsharpe@mac.com>> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats"> <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com>> Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 5:20 PM> Subject: Re: M_Boats: M-17 Centerboard Rope> > > > Phil,> > I also have a 1977 model, hull 265 (I think). I had the same problem> > except my board was stuck in the up position. First let me caution> > you! If the pendant should break, the board dropping could cause some> > damage, it is one heavy sucker, so be very careful.> > Obviously the boat will have to out of the water (unless you have scuba> > gear) and off the trailer so the keel can swing free. The bottom of> > the fixed keel will have to be about 24-28 inches above the ground. I> > built 2 big horses to support the boat while I did the work. A farmer> > friend helped me lift the boat (a front end loader and slings) , slide> > the trailer away and set her back on the horses. Once she was on the> > horses and cradled good, I worked the centerboard loose with a prybar> > while supporting the board with blocking (never work under the c-board> > without blocking, if it fell it could kill you). With help from my> > friend, I was able to drop the board a few inches at a time until it> > came down to where the hook on the c-board catches the pin at the aft>
end of the trunk. The pin (in my boat) is a 1/4" bolt which came out> > pretty easy but again, you must keep the c-board blocked to keep it> > from falling when the pin is removed. Once the pin was out the board> > came down all the way, exposing the connection. I my case, I found> > that the shackle had corroded and that the pendant was not even> > connected (the only thing holding the c-board was barnicles in the> > trunk ( a close call for sure). I had an additional problem in that> > the shackle connecting the hole in the c-board to the pendant was both> > to wide and too long as it caught in the trunk and hit the top before> > the c-board was full retracted. I would recommend you check both> > aspects. On my first try, I bought a new lanyard of 3/8" braid (with> > an eye) but found that it jammed in the trunk hole when the fat part of> > the eye splice tried to come thru. I ended up with 1/4" braid.> > Unfortunately I did not take any pictures of the whole process (wish> > I had) but am happy to share my experience. Kind regards and good> > luck, Arnold Sharpe, M-17,"LITTLE BREEZE"> > On Oct 10, 2007, at 6:47 PM, philbarilla@peoplepc.com wrote:> >> > > I have just purchased a 1977 Montgomery 17...boat number 250. The> > > centerboard is lowered out of the shoal keel by a rope which protrudes> > > up through the cockpit sole just in front of and outside of the> > > companion way hatch and coils around a vertically mounted sheet winch.> > > The rope is badly frayed just at the point where it exits the cockpit> > > sole when the board is in the fully raised position. Has anyone had> > > any experience replacing such a rope. I want to know what I can expect> > > when I have the boat lifted. After lifting the boat and lowering the> > > board, I understand there is a pin at the rear of the board which must> > > be hammered out in order for the board to drop clear of the keel> > > enough to unfasten the rope from the pennant attached to the board.> > > Any information as to the exact procedure and what to expect will be> > > greatly appreciated.> > >> > > Phil Barilla> > > _______________________________________________> > > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats> >> >> _______________________________________________> > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats> > > _______________________________________________> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats _________________________________________________________________ Express yourself with the latest Windows Live Messenger! Get it free today! http://www.get.live.com/wl/all _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
participants (6)
-
Arnold Sharpe -
bill safford -
htmills＠zoominternet.net -
philbarilla＠peoplepc.com -
Robbin Roddewig -
Tim Diebert