Rick, I showed you my No. 1 development model of my tiller extension. My reasons for building it were: The Forespar Tiller Extension was working at about a 120 degree angle to the tiller when I sat all the way forward in the cockpit - my preferred position. This 120 degree angle made it awkward to steer properly - especially if the wind started blowing and you had to exert a bit of pressure to stay on course. So, my tiller extension is really a tiller extension: fastened to the tiller to get the tiller end where I want it, and to raise the end of the tiller so that it clears my knees, and is easier to hold. Like you, I occasionally like to conn my way into an anchorage standing up and would like to also raise the tiller. I've been trying to dream up a tiller I can lift up while standing; but that can be instantly transformed back into it's original - raise / lower the rudder blade - configuration. I'm thinking: - cut the tiller about 6 inches from the rudder cheeks and mount a heavy duty hinge on the top surface of the tiller. Now the tiller could be raised at will. To lock it in it's rudder lifting position, I think a barrel bolt on the bottom of the tiller would do the job. Since I have the new tiller installed on the rudder, and the original tiller that I repaired is just standing around - I have the possibility of trying out the idea. Will advise how it works - and if it works as planned. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ My boat came with the Styrofoam blocks in the forward compartment and under the cockpit sole. However, I still feel, it is better to button up the boat (sail locker lids with gaskets and hasps: and hatch boards in place; companion way hatch closed) if the weather gets nasty. The name of the game is keep the water out of the inside of the boat. Then you don't need floatation....... There was no way I could have put floatation in a 29 footer, nor in my larger boat. If you come to that conclusion, then the answer is: outside water has to stay outside................ which means sail lockers with gaskets under the lids and that can be locked. The water that might get in via clearances in hatch boards - or my louver vent in the top hatch board, might be a gallon or two, if you get knocked down totally, but a good bilge pump takes care of that. Connie
Connie, My message under yours, below . . . --Craig ~~~~~~~~~~~~ From: <chbenneck@juno.com> "I've been trying to dream up a tiller I can lift up while standing; but that can be instantly transformed back into it's original - raise / lower the rudder blade - configuration. I'm thinking: - cut the tiller about 6 inches from the rudder cheeks and mount a heavy duty hinge on the top surface of the tiller. Now the tiller could be raised at will. To lock it in it's rudder lifting position, I think a barrel bolt on the bottom of the tiller would do the job. Since I have the new tiller installed on the rudder, and the original tiller that I repaired is just standing around - I have the possibility of trying out the idea. Will advise how it works - and if it works as planned." ~~~~~~~~~~~~ Connie, Please keep me updated on this project! I've been thinking about trying this one for years now, both on my Monty 17' and on my Flicka 20' . . . What do you think of a piece of stainless channel stock (don't know the technical term here, 3 sides, in a U shape), bolted to the fixed part of the tiller, extended under the raiseable part, to stabilize the raiseable portion when in the "down" position? Overkill? Thanks!!! --Craig, chonshell@ia4u.net ----- Original Message ----- From: <chbenneck@juno.com> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, May 30, 2004 4:06 PM Subject: Learning Curve Rick, I showed you my No. 1 development model of my tiller extension. My reasons for building it were: The Forespar Tiller Extension was working at about a 120 degree angle to the tiller when I sat all the way forward in the cockpit - my preferred position. This 120 degree angle made it awkward to steer properly - especially if the wind started blowing and you had to exert a bit of pressure to stay on course. So, my tiller extension is really a tiller extension: fastened to the tiller to get the tiller end where I want it, and to raise the end of the tiller so that it clears my knees, and is easier to hold. Like you, I occasionally like to conn my way into an anchorage standing up and would like to also raise the tiller. I've been trying to dream up a tiller I can lift up while standing; but that can be instantly transformed back into it's original - raise / lower the rudder blade - configuration. I'm thinking: - cut the tiller about 6 inches from the rudder cheeks and mount a heavy duty hinge on the top surface of the tiller. Now the tiller could be raised at will. To lock it in it's rudder lifting position, I think a barrel bolt on the bottom of the tiller would do the job. Since I have the new tiller installed on the rudder, and the original tiller that I repaired is just standing around - I have the possibility of trying out the idea. Will advise how it works - and if it works as planned. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ My boat came with the Styrofoam blocks in the forward compartment and under the cockpit sole. However, I still feel, it is better to button up the boat (sail locker lids with gaskets and hasps: and hatch boards in place; companion way hatch closed) if the weather gets nasty. The name of the game is keep the water out of the inside of the boat. Then you don't need floatation....... There was no way I could have put floatation in a 29 footer, nor in my larger boat. If you come to that conclusion, then the answer is: outside water has to stay outside................ which means sail lockers with gaskets under the lids and that can be locked. The water that might get in via clearances in hatch boards - or my louver vent in the top hatch board, might be a gallon or two, if you get knocked down totally, but a good bilge pump takes care of that. Connie
participants (2)
-
chbenneck@juno.com -
Honshells