Re: M_Boats: removing a hole in the hull and deck to joint
Connie When does old age overtake us? I am slated to pick up a M15 in the next 2 wks. &@ 80 with a bum knee I am having 2nd thougts. George Hitchhick on Marys tablet as laptop chrashed:-) Sent from Samsung tabletConbert Benneck <chbenneck@sbcglobal.net> wrote:On 26-Feb-13 12:42 PM, Robbin Roddewig wrote: Hi Robbin, I too married a derelict CP16 in haste in Clearwater, FL, and then repented at leisure. The rudder on the CP16 was just a flat piece of aluminum sheet material, about 3/8th of an inch thick, as I recall. When I recognized that the CP16 was a miserable sailor - it refused to even think of going to windward - I quickly recognized that I had bought a bathtub toy, not a sail boat; dumped the CP16 as quickly as I could, and looked around for a better solution. What I found was the M15, and after lots of chit-chat with the M-Listers, who answered all my questions in great detail, and with lots of enthusiasm, I bought my M15, #400 sight-unseen, in Panama City, FL. After picking it up and towing it back to Connecticut,my first detailed inspection at home delighted me with what I had bought, and it only got better and better the longer we owned it. For just the Admirable and myself, the M15 was ideal, and we did a lot of trailering; sailing; and exploring in it. Jerry designed and built a masterpiece. I only wish we were still able to sail our "LEPPO" , but old age finally forced us to give up our wonderful sport of sailing. Ciao, Connie ex M15 #400 LEPPO
Hi Tom, my only experience was the Compac 16 that had a rather poor rudder. Just a piece of sheet metal from what I remember of the stock rudder. The boat had such issues pointing that I was desperate to improve it any way I could. For the CP-16 the improvement was very noticable. For the M boats I think the rudder shape is very good so all I would be looking for from Ida would be the kick up function without doing surgery to my Mahogany rudder.
Robbin
On 2/26/2013 10:12 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Hi Robbin I too am thinking "Isa rudder". Have also read the hype about them, etc. In your experience do they improve the handling/speed at all much less turning a sailboat into something you can water ski behind? I think they quote M-17 rudders at something around $650. Regards, Tom
On Tue, Feb 26, 2013 at 8:09 AM, Robbin Roddewig < robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> wrote:
Hi Tom, my pleasure posting the pictures. The M-10 is very very similar to the Fatty Knees so you might find some info there since they are still in production, but the M-10 has a dagger board that you lift in and out of the dagger board slot in the hull. I would estimate that with the dagger board up the M-10 draws well less than a foot, probably six inches. It has no keel to speak of, only a formed keel at the back of the hull to help it track while rowing etc. The rudder arrangement on the M-23 like most of the M-17's is that the rudder slides up and down a fixed rod. I bought the material for the rod from McMaster Carr. You can google them but they sell bolts, metal products as well as other machine items. They are not a marine supply outfit in any way. I too have a kick up rudder on my long list, probably from Ida Sailor as I had good luck with them on my CP-16 rudder replacement long ago. The Chesapeake has lots of thin water and given the right circumstance I can see the transom being damaged from grounding the rudder while it is full down.
Robbin
On 2/26/2013 8:58 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Hi Robbin, Great pictures, thanks. That M-10 is a sweet looking craft. Does it have any type of keel arrangement? How much does it draw? There is a lot of protected water around Corpus Christi that is rather shallow and this boat looks like it would be fun to use to explore the area. Noticed you bought that rudder rod from Mc Master Carr. Is that a business name? My M-17 does not have the rudder rod arrangement and it was certainly a good idea when I used it on my first Montgomery. I am considering a kickup rudder commercially made since my 17 came with a replacement rudder without any holes at all in it. The thin water here abouts covers oyster shell beds which are as hard as rock and I do not want to tear off a rudder on one of them.
Regards, Tom
On Mon, Feb 25, 2013 at 6:48 PM, Robbin Roddewig < robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> wrote:
Hi Thomas,
I am not sure what material the through hull is but to me the valve looks like a gate valve. I do have some shots of the M-10 although I am not sure how to post them to this site. I will upload them to the M-23 site at https://picasaweb.google.com/****110938325409185510143/M23<https://picasaweb.google.com/**110938325409185510143/M23>
<htt**ps://picasaweb.google.com/**110938325409185510143/M23<https://picasaweb.google.com/110938325409185510143/M23>
Thanks Robbin
On 2/25/2013 6:49 PM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Robbin,
If the valve is delrin or bronze I would leave it where it is against the day when you may sell the craft. Just be sure the ball valve is wired shut. I have always heard that 5200 is the way to go. I have been looking for a picture of an M-10. If you have one, would you post it here? Well the first 900 miles I put on my new (old) M-17 were road miles but it is finally in my yard.
Good luck on your repairs, Tom Buzzi
On Mon, Feb 25, 2013 at 4:06 PM, Robbin Roddewig < robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> wrote:
Hi M-boaters,
> I attended a great seminar that other day about proper through > hulls > that > convinced me I should remove the through hull on my M-23 that is > connected > to the holding tank. I never plan on using this as I have a porta > potti, > dont now if the attached valve is approved and am not planning on > reconstituting the head system so this is just a hole in the > hull for > water > to come in if it breaks. Any advice on how to remove the current > plastic > (or delrin or whatever it is) through hull and then patch the > hole? I > am > not sure what the thickness of the hull is on the lower portion, > cored > or > what not. > I also need to work on the hull to deck joint in March and April as > things > warm up in Virginia. If anyone has a good reference or hints on > this > repair I would appreciate any info that you can pass along. I > have had > Jerry's recommendation to use 3M 5200 which is also what Don Casey > recommends but I like to get all the information I can before > starting > a > big project. > > Thanks in advance! > > Robbin > M-23 and M-10 > > > >
George, Leading all the lines via fairleads and jam cleats to the cockpit would be a good start. Connie, sorry for your loss. Tom B. On Tue, Feb 26, 2013 at 12:34 PM, griemmolo2 <griemmolo2@gmail.com> wrote:
Connie When does old age overtake us? I am slated to pick up a M15 in the next 2 wks. &@ 80 with a bum knee I am having 2nd thougts.
George Hitchhick on Marys tablet as laptop chrashed:-)
Sent from Samsung tabletConbert Benneck <chbenneck@sbcglobal.net> wrote:On 26-Feb-13 12:42 PM, Robbin Roddewig wrote:
Hi Robbin,
I too married a derelict CP16 in haste in Clearwater, FL, and then repented at leisure.
The rudder on the CP16 was just a flat piece of aluminum sheet material, about 3/8th of an inch thick, as I recall.
When I recognized that the CP16 was a miserable sailor - it refused to even think of going to windward - I quickly recognized that I had bought a bathtub toy, not a sail boat; dumped the CP16 as quickly as I could, and looked around for a better solution.
What I found was the M15, and after lots of chit-chat with the M-Listers, who answered all my questions in great detail, and with lots of enthusiasm, I bought my M15, #400 sight-unseen, in Panama City, FL.
After picking it up and towing it back to Connecticut,my first detailed inspection at home delighted me with what I had bought, and it only got better and better the longer we owned it.
For just the Admirable and myself, the M15 was ideal, and we did a lot of trailering; sailing; and exploring in it.
Jerry designed and built a masterpiece.
I only wish we were still able to sail our "LEPPO" , but old age finally forced us to give up our wonderful sport of sailing.
Ciao,
Connie
ex M15 #400 LEPPO
Hi Tom, my only experience was the Compac 16 that had a rather poor rudder. Just a piece of sheet metal from what I remember of the stock rudder. The boat had such issues pointing that I was desperate to improve it any way I could. For the CP-16 the improvement was very noticable. For the M boats I think the rudder shape is very good so all I would be looking for from Ida would be the kick up function without doing surgery to my Mahogany rudder.
Robbin
On 2/26/2013 10:12 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Hi Robbin I too am thinking "Isa rudder". Have also read the hype about them, etc. In your experience do they improve the handling/speed at all much less turning a sailboat into something you can water ski behind? I think they quote M-17 rudders at something around $650. Regards, Tom
On Tue, Feb 26, 2013 at 8:09 AM, Robbin Roddewig < robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> wrote:
Hi Tom, my pleasure posting the pictures. The M-10 is very very similar to the Fatty Knees so you might find some info there since they are still in production, but the M-10 has a dagger board that you lift in and out of the dagger board slot in the hull. I would estimate that with the dagger board up the M-10 draws well less than a foot, probably six inches. It has no keel to speak of, only a formed keel at the back of the hull to help it track while rowing etc. The rudder arrangement on the M-23 like most of the M-17's is that the rudder slides up and down a fixed rod. I bought the material for the rod from McMaster Carr. You can google them but they sell bolts, metal products as well as other machine items. They are not a marine supply outfit in any way. I too have a kick up rudder on my long list, probably from Ida Sailor as I had good luck with them on my CP-16 rudder replacement long ago. The Chesapeake has lots of thin water and given the right circumstance I can see the transom being damaged from grounding the rudder while it is full down.
Robbin
On 2/26/2013 8:58 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Hi Robbin, Great pictures, thanks. That M-10 is a sweet looking craft. Does it have any type of keel arrangement? How much does it draw? There is a lot of protected water around Corpus Christi that is rather shallow and this boat looks like it would be fun to use to explore the area. Noticed you bought that rudder rod from Mc Master Carr. Is that a business name? My M-17 does not have the rudder rod arrangement and it was certainly a good idea when I used it on my first Montgomery. I am considering a kickup rudder commercially made since my 17 came with a replacement rudder without any holes at all in it. The thin water here abouts covers oyster shell beds which are as hard as rock and I do not want to tear off a rudder on one of them.
Regards, Tom
On Mon, Feb 25, 2013 at 6:48 PM, Robbin Roddewig < robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> wrote:
Hi Thomas,
I am not sure what material the through hull is but to me the valve looks like a gate valve. I do have some shots of the M-10 although I am not sure how to post them to this site. I will upload them to the M-23 site at https://picasaweb.google.com/****110938325409185510143/M23<; https://picasaweb.google.com/**110938325409185510143/M23>
<htt**ps://picasaweb.google.com/**110938325409185510143/M23< https://picasaweb.google.com/110938325409185510143/M23>
Thanks Robbin
On 2/25/2013 6:49 PM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Robbin, > If the valve is delrin or bronze I would leave it where it is > against > the > day when you may sell the craft. Just be sure the ball valve is > wired > shut. > I have always heard that 5200 is the way to go. > I have been looking for a picture of an M-10. If you have one, > would you > post it here? > Well the first 900 miles I put on my new (old) M-17 were road > miles but > it > is finally in my yard. > > Good luck on your repairs, > Tom Buzzi > > On Mon, Feb 25, 2013 at 4:06 PM, Robbin Roddewig < > robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> wrote: > > Hi M-boaters, > >> I attended a great seminar that other day about proper through >> hulls >> that >> convinced me I should remove the through hull on my M-23 that is >> connected >> to the holding tank. I never plan on using this as I have a porta >> potti, >> dont now if the attached valve is approved and am not planning on >> reconstituting the head system so this is just a hole in the >> hull for >> water >> to come in if it breaks. Any advice on how to remove the current >> plastic >> (or delrin or whatever it is) through hull and then patch the >> hole? I >> am >> not sure what the thickness of the hull is on the lower portion, >> cored >> or >> what not. >> I also need to work on the hull to deck joint in March and April as >> things >> warm up in Virginia. If anyone has a good reference or hints on >> this >> repair I would appreciate any info that you can pass along. I >> have had >> Jerry's recommendation to use 3M 5200 which is also what Don Casey >> recommends but I like to get all the information I can before >> starting >> a >> big project. >> >> Thanks in advance! >> >> Robbin >> M-23 and M-10 >> >> >> >>
participants (2)
-
griemmolo2 -
Thomas Buzzi