I have read with interest the past bits about through hulls and how to maintain or repair. Does anyone have any specifics on how to retro fit an older m-17 to the new model that drains directly throught the transom? This seems like the best answer, and after all, I do need a winter project. I have lots of experience with both epoxy and poly resins. Dik Lang m-17 #375 _________________________________________________________________ Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com
Hello Dik, The repair that we made on "hula pie" has worked out real well for sailing on lakes and inlets where the chances of getting pooped are about zero but something better will be necessary for the ocean. Jerry M. suggested two larger drains straight thru the transom above the waterline, the problem is finding the right pieces to make this work as there is only about six inches to work with between the cockpit and the transom and two large thruhulls, back to back, add up to about 12inches! There is a type of " trapdoor" drain on some racing boats but I don't know where to find one or if that could be made to work. I too am looking to make this type of improvement so let us know if you come up with a good idea. Today is the last day out on Scotts Flat lake as the water level is getting too low to launch-fortunately some good 20 knot winds are predicted so Cat and I will try to get that rail down this P.M. Next week we plan to try out the California Delta, boat camping for a few nights around Franks Tract, Mandeville and Venice Islands so if any NorCal M boaters or Potter Yachters want to join up just let us know. Here's to making the "older" Montgomerys even better, Ron and Cathryn Goodspeed M17 "hula pie" #025
Hello Dik, Well I blew it on the distance from the cockpit to the transom, when we got to the boat today I went "whoops!" because it measured 11.5 inches on "hula pie", outside to outside, and maybe some 1.5 inch thruhulls will work after all. Would a following sea wash thru? Maybe you would be so wet at that point it wouldn't matter. Ron
We use 'whale' one way check valves on the transome drains. They are costly but they work well. Inch and a half hose size. You want to mount the cockpit drains as low as possible. Keep in mind with a couple of people in the cockpit the stern will squat so you want to locate the transome drains just above the waterline with a couple of people in the boat. The one way check valves we install keep out following sea's and a bonus is that the fuel tank locker is completely dry at all times. Fair winds Bob ron and cathryn goodspeed wrote:
Hello Dik, Well I blew it on the distance from the cockpit to the transom, when we got to the boat today I went "whoops!" because it measured 11.5 inches on "hula pie", outside to outside, and maybe some 1.5 inch thruhulls will work after all. Would a following sea wash thru? Maybe you would be so wet at that point it wouldn't matter.
Ron
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Ron, Dik: You should be able to find some check valves for the drains. If not, why not make a flapper that rides over the exit on the transom. That should keep majority of a pooper out of the cockpit. Steve ----- Original Message ----- From: "ron and cathryn goodspeed" <rcgoodspeed@mac.com> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, September 27, 2002 6:33 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: cockpit drains
Hello Dik, Well I blew it on the distance from the cockpit to the transom, when we got to the boat today I went "whoops!" because it measured 11.5 inches on "hula pie", outside to outside, and maybe some 1.5 inch thruhulls will work after all. Would a following sea wash thru? Maybe you would be so wet at that point it wouldn't matter.
Ron
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I too am intrested in this. I have cut a small hole in my transom to get at the fitting that the cockpit drain hose attaches to. The bottom metal fitting is corroded and leaking. It makes more sense to me to remove it, fiberglass the hole it was in, (on bottom of boat '76 M17) and run the new fitting out the transom, making sure it's below the cockpit floor level. Anyone out there have a recommendation as to what the new fitting should be? Wayne Yeargain ----- Original Message ----- From: "dik lang" <diklang32@hotmail.com> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, September 27, 2002 10:38 AM Subject: M_Boats: cockpit drains
I have read with interest the past bits about through hulls and how to maintain or repair. Does anyone have any specifics on how to retro fit an older m-17 to the new model that drains directly throught the transom?
This
seems like the best answer, and after all, I do need a winter project. I have lots of experience with both epoxy and poly resins. Dik Lang m-17 #375
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I think there have been several solutions to this posted in the past two weeks...innovative homemade versions anyway. Copper pipes...stainless tubing. All doing a good job of emulating the original flush mount drain. I think that one problem with not running it out through the bottom is the amount of fall between the bottom of the cockpit drain and the bottom of the transom. Without exiting the bottom, you may not get it to drain properly. But if it will work, with a check valve in the line to prevent backwash, that would be the easy way. I think the drain hose is also an integral part of the original drains, and it makes a convoluted bend that raises the bottom of the hose to the level of the cockpit floor. The hose still drains, but the bend creates a higher point than the cockpit half of the drain, and this helps prevent backwash, but also works like a regular drain trap...with a small pocket of water always in the line. I've been wondering why a regular 1" to 1 1/2" bronze mushroom head wouldn't work for the bottom drain...unless drag were an issue, and if that is the case...why not a flush mount through hull? They make them in bronze too. And you can get them with 45° elbows. Which brings up another point...how would you cut the exact bevel you would need to mount a flush mount through hull? As for adding another drain to the older boats, it occurs to me that the second drain does not have to be as low as the first. A pooping that would fill the cockpit is going to first drain to the level of the cutout for the motor mount....but that still leaves water to a level just above the cockpit seats. But with that much water onboard, you can be certain the boat will be squatting aft...with more water pouring out the opening...but she would still be squatting aft, so water won't be level in the cockpit..but tilted aft too. So a second drain about halfway up the riser of the cockpit's foot well and out the transom well above the waterline is going to remove the dangerous amount of water....with the balance of it still going out the floor drain. But with the second drain mounted higher, you would seldom if ever get any backwash coming in. Even so, they do make the drains with one way check valves just for this purpose. But either way, I would not want to be in a boat with the original cockpit drain leaking. If the metal or hose gives out you are pretty much assured of sinking. Howard M17, #278 On 9/29/02 8:46 PM, "wayne yeargain" <wayne@ev1.net> wrote:
I too am intrested in this. I have cut a small hole in my transom to get at the fitting that the cockpit drain hose attaches to. The bottom metal fitting is corroded and leaking. It makes more sense to me to remove it, fiberglass the hole it was in, (on bottom of boat '76 M17) and run the new fitting out the transom, making sure it's below the cockpit floor level. Anyone out there have a recommendation as to what the new fitting should be? Wayne Yeargain ----- Original Message ----- From: "dik lang" <diklang32@hotmail.com> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, September 27, 2002 10:38 AM Subject: M_Boats: cockpit drains
I have read with interest the past bits about through hulls and how to maintain or repair. Does anyone have any specifics on how to retro fit an older m-17 to the new model that drains directly throught the transom?
This
seems like the best answer, and after all, I do need a winter project. I have lots of experience with both epoxy and poly resins. Dik Lang m-17 #375
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participants (6)
-
Bob -
dik lang -
Howard Audsley -
ron and cathryn goodspeed -
Steve & Diana Parsons -
wayne yeargain