Hi Tom- Sorry to take so long about answering your questions. I never had too much encouragement about making a mold for a CB. It would cost me about a week's work and several hundred dollars to make the tooling. After I put a post on the list, several people emailed me that they would be interested, but several also pointed out "a reasonable price"; two mentioned two hundred dollars or so; they are dreaming. There would be about a half-day's work to make one, and material would be somewhere in the area of two hundred dollars, probably, including the lead, my cost. It would cost at least another hundred to make a crate and ship it. It just doesn't pencil out unless I have a week or so that I don't have anything to do, which will never happen. I don't mind tying up the money, but the time is a problem. I've got too much work to do that I can make money on. I don't mean to be greedy, but at this point life is too short to work for 10 dollars an hour, and that's what I might be doing. I hate fiberglass anyway. I thought about doing this about a year ago, and even had someone send me a tracing of the old CB, but better sense took over. I remember that someone had a fabricator flame-cut a board, then galvanize it. This would work, sort of, but would work well if they could round off the leading edge and chamfer the exit to give it some semblance of shape. Possible someone could research this and come up with the shop that did it. Steel plate and flame-cutting is cheap, but the labor to do the shaping would be a bite. Weld a tang on it, because you don't want to let it hang from the pennant; it will chafe thru, then hammer it's way out of the boat unless you are really lucky and catch it close to the marina. Brazing would work fine in fresh water, otherwise cast iron or nickle, which is what I used. Sandblast it, then grind it, working for a roundish elliptical leading edge, and a flat trailing edge (don't round it!). Use West system fairing stuff mixed with epoxy (follow Gugeon's directions) to fair it, and sand it with either a DA, or a buffer with a soft pad; probably 80 grit would be fine because the fairing compound sands really well. Prime with epoxy primer; first with Awlgrip sanding primer with a hi fill, (sand with the DA and 80 grit) then the harder stuff by Awlgrip, and sand it with 180 or so. Then paint it with either LP or a catalyzed polyurethane like Deltron, by PPG, 3 or 4 coats. Lots of work, but cheaper and better than a glass one, and it will be as good as new. Let it hang for a couple of weeks before putting it back in the boat, or in your case, since you're probably snowed in already, let it sit over the winter. You can hang it and spray it, or you can do it with a brush, one side at a time, by laying it flat. It weighs about 170 lbs, so you better have Jane turn it over for you. Have fun. I'll CC this to the list for general information. Jerry www.innercite.com/~jmbn