Here's my start on Busca's wiring diagram. Unfortunately, it isn't the most readable. I'm putting together a bill of materials now. http://www.bright.net/~htmills/BuscaWiringDiagram.jpg and a close-up of the panel: http://www.bright.net/~htmills/BuscaPanel.jpg It doesn't have all that much, a masthead light a floodlight on the deck (built in with the masthead light) a bicolor bow light a stern light a cabin light a cabin plug a cockpit plug a fishfinder The diagram is supposed to be pretty representative of how the wires will actually be on the boat (I show the mast and compression post. Doing it that way (instead of strictly abstractly) allowed me to reduce the number of wires. For instance, I was going to have three switches alongside the companionway, on for deck nav lights, one for masthead light, and one for floodlight. But when I saw all the extra wiring needed (not to mention mounting the switches) I scrapped that for this simpler arrangement. I figure if I need an anchor light (something I've never felt the need for yet) I can plug a light into the cockpit receptacle. Wiring a battery charger in would be nice but.... Tod M17 #408 BuscaBrisas
I tow a couple times a season in a moderate (Michigan) climate on flat roads. I tow about 200 miles, or 400 miles a season. Otherwise, I use my tow vehicle only to launch and retrieve my boat on a moderate-incline ramp. I have an M17. I'm considering a '95 6-cyl. 4X2 (2-wheel-drive) Dodge Dakota Magnum with an automatic transmission. Will I need a transmission cooler?
----- Original Message ----- From: "Honshells" <chonshell@ia4u.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2004 7:43 PM Subject: M_Boats: transmission cooler
I tow a couple times a season in a moderate (Michigan) climate on flat
roads. I tow about 200 miles, or 400
miles a season. Otherwise, I use my tow vehicle only to launch and retrieve my boat on a moderate-incline ramp.
I have an M17.
I'm considering a '95 6-cyl. 4X2 (2-wheel-drive) Dodge Dakota Magnum with an automatic transmission.
Will I need a transmission cooler?
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Craig, If you have an owner's manual, it should specify the combined gross weight of the vehicle and the load it's pulling.It should also specify the maximum vertical load on the trailer tongue If you stay within the specified limits, you will not exceed the design limits of the vehicle and should not need a transmission larger than the one that comes as original equipment. Most automatic transmission have their hydraulic fluid cooled by a small cooler located in the bottom of the radiator, or in side tank if the radiator is of the cross flow type. If you don't have this manual, try calling Chrysler Corporation customer service and ask them to direct you to someone that can give you this information. Clarence Andrews ----- Original Message ----- From: "Honshells" <chonshell@ia4u.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2004 7:43 PM Subject: M_Boats: transmission cooler
I tow a couple times a season in a moderate (Michigan) climate on flat
roads. I tow about 200 miles, or 400
miles a season. Otherwise, I use my tow vehicle only to launch and retrieve my boat on a moderate-incline ramp.
I have an M17.
I'm considering a '95 6-cyl. 4X2 (2-wheel-drive) Dodge Dakota Magnum with an automatic transmission.
Will I need a transmission cooler?
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Thanks, Clarence. So when U-Haul and other places that mount hitches and rig trailer-light saddles talk about adding a "transmission cooler", are they talking about a larger-than-stock unit (assuming the truck didn't come equipped from the dealership with a "tow package"), an additional unit, or a unit mounted on vehicles capable of, but never intended for, towing? --Craig ----- Original Message ----- From: "n9ca" <n9ca@comcast.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2004 9:52 PM Subject: transmission cooler Craig, If you have an owner's manual, it should specify the combined gross weight of the vehicle and the load it's pulling. It should also specify the maximum vertical load on the trailer tongue If you stay within the specified limits, you will not exceed the design limits of the vehicle and should not need a transmission larger than the one that comes as original equipment. Most automatic transmissions have their hydraulic fluid cooled by a small cooler located in the bottom of the radiator, or in side tank if the radiator is of the cross flow type. If you don't have this manual, try calling Chrysler Corporation customer service and ask them to direct you to someone that can give you this information. Clarence Andrews ----- Original Message ----- From: "Honshells" <chonshell@ia4u.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2004 7:43 PM Subject: transmission cooler I tow a couple times a season in a moderate (Michigan) climate on flat roads. I tow about 200 miles, or 400 miles a season. Otherwise, I use my tow vehicle only to launch and retrieve my boat on a moderate-incline ramp. I have an M17. I'm considering a '95 6-cyl. 4X2 (2-wheel-drive) Dodge Dakota Magnum with an automatic transmission. Will I need a transmission cooler?
Accurate information must preceed a correct opinion. Reliable technical data is best obtained from the manufacturer's technical staff. Ask them. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Honshells" <chonshell@ia4u.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2004 10:05 PM Subject: M_Boats: transmission cooler
Thanks, Clarence. So when U-Haul and other places that mount hitches and
rig trailer-light saddles talk about
adding a "transmission cooler", are they talking about a larger-than-stock unit (assuming the truck didn't come equipped from the dealership with a "tow package"), an additional unit, or a unit mounted on vehicles capable of, but never intended for, towing? --Craig
----- Original Message ----- From: "n9ca" <n9ca@comcast.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2004 9:52 PM Subject: transmission cooler
Craig,
If you have an owner's manual, it should specify the combined gross weight of the vehicle and the load it's pulling. It should also specify the maximum vertical load on the trailer tongue If you stay within the specified limits, you will not exceed the design limits of the vehicle and should not need a transmission larger than the one that comes as original equipment. Most automatic transmissions have their hydraulic fluid cooled by a small cooler located in the bottom of the radiator, or in side tank if the radiator is of the cross flow type. If you don't have this manual, try calling Chrysler Corporation customer service and ask them to direct you to someone that can give you this information.
Clarence Andrews
----- Original Message ----- From: "Honshells" <chonshell@ia4u.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2004 7:43 PM Subject: transmission cooler
I tow a couple times a season in a moderate (Michigan) climate on flat roads. I tow about 200 miles, or 400 miles a season. Otherwise, I use my tow vehicle only to launch and retrieve my boat on a moderate-incline ramp.
I have an M17.
I'm considering a '95 6-cyl. 4X2 (2-wheel-drive) Dodge Dakota Magnum with an automatic transmission.
Will I need a transmission cooler?
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Craig, As was stated by Clarence, if you are within the specs for towing (per the manufacturer) you probably don't need the tranny cooler (given your stated towing mileage and conditions). That being said, I would probably add the cooler just in case I might take a longer or more arduous trip sometime in the future. If the truck already has a cooler I wouldn't upgrade it, though. That's my $.02. Mark Dvorscak M-23 Faith
Craig, I used to occasionally tow my old Catalina 22 with a 1989 Dakota 2wd pickup with V6 and five speed overdrive automatic. My truck had no add-on transmission cooler or special tow package except the Class II hitch. There are lots of ups, downs and arounds where I live so I always took it easy and never used overdrive and had no problems ever with the truck. You won't win any races, though. It is true that Chrysler had some problems with their minivan transmissions in the early 90's but not (that I know of) with their trucks (my wife worked for a Dodge store back then). Hope this helps... --George Burmeyer M15 #385 On 5/8/04 4:43 PM, "Honshells" <chonshell@ia4u.net> wrote:
I tow a couple times a season in a moderate (Michigan) climate on flat roads. I tow about 200 miles, or 400 miles a season. Otherwise, I use my tow vehicle only to launch and retrieve my boat on a moderate-incline ramp.
I have an M17.
I'm considering a '95 6-cyl. 4X2 (2-wheel-drive) Dodge Dakota Magnum with an automatic transmission.
Will I need a transmission cooler?
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Tod, When I installed the electrical system in my M15, Stan had suggested that the power to the VHF by-pass the switch panel. This puts fewer things to go wrong between the power and the radio in an emergency. It also has fewer switchs to turn on to get the radio powered up. This would increase the odds of it working if the owner/designer was incapaciated and someone not familar with the switch configuration was trying to use it in an emergency. Do you have a non-hand held VHF in Busca? Thanks Doug --- htmills@bright.net wrote:
Here's my start on Busca's wiring diagram. Unfortunately, it isn't the most readable. I'm putting together a bill of materials now.
http://www.bright.net/~htmills/BuscaWiringDiagram.jpg
and a close-up of the panel:
http://www.bright.net/~htmills/BuscaPanel.jpg
It doesn't have all that much,
a masthead light a floodlight on the deck (built in with the masthead light) a bicolor bow light a stern light a cabin light a cabin plug a cockpit plug a fishfinder
The diagram is supposed to be pretty representative of how the wires will actually be on the boat (I show the mast and compression post. Doing it that way (instead of strictly abstractly) allowed me to reduce the number of wires. For instance, I was going to have three switches alongside the companionway, on for deck nav lights, one for masthead light, and one for floodlight. But when I saw all the extra wiring needed (not to mention mounting the switches) I scrapped that for this simpler arrangement.
I figure if I need an anchor light (something I've never felt the need for yet) I can plug a light into the cockpit receptacle. Wiring a battery charger in would be nice but....
Tod M17 #408 BuscaBrisas
_______________________________________________
http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Win a $20,000 Career Makeover at Yahoo! HotJobs http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/careermakeover
That's a good idea, Doug (and Stan). Busca used to have a fixed VHF but when I got her all that remained was the coax and I haven't bothered to add one. I've just been using the handheld. If I decide to add one, I'll go that route. Tod
I think this question was posted to the list a couple years ago and at the time, the answer was "no" . . . But given the fast-paced evolution of technology, I'll ask it again: Does any manufacturer make a hand-held to which you can attach a coax for a mast-mount antenna, to increase its range (not that you'd necessarily NEED to)? ----- Original Message ----- From: <htmills@bright.net> To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Monday, May 10, 2004 8:13 PM Subject: Boats: wiring diagram That's a good idea, Doug (and Stan). Busca used to have a fixed VHF but when I got her all that remained was the coax and I haven't bothered to add one. I've just been using the handheld. If I decide to add one, I'll go that route. Tod
Yes, with an extra-cost adapter, of course. Or at least the adapter for my Standard Horizon HX260S is cataloged (in 2004 WM, p. 59, $32.99). The HX350S supposedly uses the same adapter. -- John Tyner M-15 "Chimpanzee" -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces+tynerjohn=erols.com@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces+tynerjohn=erols.com@mailman.xmission.co m]On Behalf Of Honshells Sent: Monday, May 10, 2004 10:13 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: M_Boats: wiring diagram I think this question was posted to the list a couple years ago and at the time, the answer was "no" . . . But given the fast-paced evolution of technology, I'll ask it again: Does any manufacturer make a hand-held to which you can attach a coax for a mast-mount antenna, to increase its range (not that you'd necessarily NEED to)? ----- Original Message ----- From: <htmills@bright.net> To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Monday, May 10, 2004 8:13 PM Subject: Boats: wiring diagram That's a good idea, Doug (and Stan). Busca used to have a fixed VHF but when I got her all that remained was the coax and I haven't bothered to add one. I've just been using the handheld. If I decide to add one, I'll go that route. Tod _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Tod, Nice diagram and good planning. I would suggest though, that you put both plugs on one fuse and switch and keep the cabin lights on a separate switch. You probably won't be using two plug in items at the same time, and it seems like it would be inconvenient to have the cabin lights on whenever you're using the cabin plug. I also agree with Doug about a wired in radio. It's best to have an in-line fuse, as close to the battery as possible, and have no switch in the line between the battery and radio. If you really need to completely disconnect the radio, you can always have a quick disconnect in the wire near the battery or remove the in-line fuse. Your overall arrangement seems to cover all the bases and should work well with any situation. When you finish the work, post some pictures of the actual mountings of the various components, and of your battery and switch set-up. This would probably give some of us ideas. Thanks for posting your diagram. Bill Day htmills@bright.net wrote:
Here's my start on Busca's wiring diagram. Unfortunately, it isn't the most readable. I'm putting together a bill of materials now.
http://www.bright.net/~htmills/BuscaWiringDiagram.jpg
and a close-up of the panel:
http://www.bright.net/~htmills/BuscaPanel.jpg
It doesn't have all that much,
a masthead light a floodlight on the deck (built in with the masthead light) a bicolor bow light a stern light a cabin light a cabin plug a cockpit plug a fishfinder
The diagram is supposed to be pretty representative of how the wires will actually be on the boat (I show the mast and compression post. Doing it that way (instead of strictly abstractly) allowed me to reduce the number of wires. For instance, I was going to have three switches alongside the companionway, on for deck nav lights, one for masthead light, and one for floodlight. But when I saw all the extra wiring needed (not to mention mounting the switches) I scrapped that for this simpler arrangement.
I figure if I need an anchor light (something I've never felt the need for yet) I can plug a light into the cockpit receptacle. Wiring a battery charger in would be nice but....
Tod M17 #408 BuscaBrisas
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Because my boat is over 200 miles away right now . . . What is the diameter of the vertical holes, I guess you could call them "drains", that allow water to pass from the M17 cockpit to the wet locker, and vise versa? The actual drains (to thru-hulls) are in the wet-locker itself, so I'm not sure what I should call the holes from the locker to the cockpit. My M17 is an '84, and I don't know whether the holes would be different on post-'80's models. My deck is Jerry's redesign, with the wider transom and no outboard cut-out. Thanks!
Thanks for your comments, Bill It's a good point about having separate switch for the light and plug; I'll make sure they have them. The cutouts for the panel are already there so I'll re-use the existing holes. I think they are probably where most of the 17's have them, on the face of the v-berth. Will post some pics. Tod
participants (8)
-
Bill & Gigi Day -
Doug Kelch -
G Burmeyer -
Honshells -
htmills＠bright.net -
John Tyner -
n9ca -
Roberta Dvorscak