I am in the process of having new Ports being cut to shape out of acrylic. I will have to drill mounting holes in the Ports is there any thing special I should be thinking about. I have been told to use a very dull drill and slow speeds. In addition when I removed the old Ports I found that there was what appeared to be felt gaskets between the Port and the cabin hull with very little if any sealing material around the edges. The gaskets seem to be good condition. Should I just remount the new Ports using the existing gaskets? George M15 #602 NoNameYet
George..... I assume you have holes already in the deck for the ports.? Hold up the acrylic in place and back-drill the holes. A sharp bit will work on acrylic and it won't crack. Clean the holes and bed the windows in a bead of marine silicone. Don't know about the felt, never heard of it. After bedding the windows wipe any excess silicone off. We actually countersink the windows but I don't know what your old windows had. #8 stainless machine screws with stainless nuts on the inside. We countersink on a drill press after the holes are back drilled. Good luck..! Bob Eeg (949) 489-8227
From: griemmolo2@gmail.com To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2013 19:47:09 -0500 Subject: M_Boats: M15 Ports
I am in the process of having new Ports being cut to shape out of acrylic. I will have to drill mounting holes in the Ports is there any thing special I should be thinking about. I have been told to use a very dull drill and slow speeds.
In addition when I removed the old Ports I found that there was what appeared to be felt gaskets between the Port and the cabin hull with very little if any sealing material around the edges. The gaskets seem to be good condition. Should I just remount the new Ports using the existing gaskets?
George
M15 #602
NoNameYet
Bob Thanks for the tip on how to align the holes for drilling. I will be using #8 pan heads with a washer & nylock nut on the inside. The Screws were made of plastic along with the nuts. They were very brittle and just broke off. The winds did not leak though. I have one of the few American Classic Montgomery's made in Seattle some time in '96'. According to Jerry it may be the only one though it has #602 on the plate. Out of curiosity what # did you start with and might we have 2 #602's out there. I may try mounting with the felt gasket and water test it to see how it works. George -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Bob Eeg Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2013 8:14 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: M15 Ports George..... I assume you have holes already in the deck for the ports.? Hold up the acrylic in place and back-drill the holes. A sharp bit will work on acrylic and it won't crack. Clean the holes and bed the windows in a bead of marine silicone. Don't know about the felt, never heard of it. After bedding the windows wipe any excess silicone off. We actually countersink the windows but I don't know what your old windows had. #8 stainless machine screws with stainless nuts on the inside. We countersink on a drill press after the holes are back drilled. Good luck..! Bob Eeg (949) 489-8227
From: griemmolo2@gmail.com To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2013 19:47:09 -0500 Subject: M_Boats: M15 Ports
I am in the process of having new Ports being cut to shape out of acrylic. I will have to drill mounting holes in the Ports is there any thing special I should be thinking about. I have been told to use a very dull drill and slow speeds.
In addition when I removed the old Ports I found that there was what appeared to be felt gaskets between the Port and the cabin hull with very little if any sealing material around the edges. The gaskets seem to be good condition. Should I just remount the new Ports using the existing gaskets?
George
M15 #602
NoNameYet
George: Cover the new windows with 3M blue tape. drill the mounting holes as outlined by Bob. before using silicone mount the windows in place. inside the boat use a very sharp knife to cut the tape around the window edge. you do this inside so you can remove the tape around the outer-inside-edge of the window. remove the windows. remove this tape around the edge of the inside of the window. now 'butter up' the window flange with silicone. mount the window and snug, not tight (you want to leave some silicone between the window and the flange). using a scraper remove the squeeze-out inside and outside the window. now, because you taped the windows, just remove the tape. you now don't need to clean the windows of silicone as they were protected by the tape. need pictures? i can share some in a few days when i return to the shop. :: Dave Scobie --- On Thu, 4/18/13, George R. Iemmolo <griemmolo2@gmail.com> wrote:
I am in the process of having new Ports being cut to shape out of acrylic. I will have to drill mounting holes in the Ports is there any thing special I should be thinking about. I have been told to use a very dull drill and slow speeds.
In addition when I removed the old Ports I found that there was what appeared to be felt gaskets between the Port and the cabin hull with very little if any sealing material around the edges. The gaskets seem to be good condition. Should I just remount the new Ports using the existing gaskets?
George
M15 #602
NoNameYet
Dave Pictures would be great. This is one of my next projects if not too difficult. Is acrylic the best material to use for the window? We have the trapezoid shaped window with aluminum frame. Pam On Apr 19, 2013, at 6:36 AM, W David Scobie wrote:
George:
Cover the new windows with 3M blue tape.
drill the mounting holes as outlined by Bob.
before using silicone mount the windows in place.
inside the boat use a very sharp knife to cut the tape around the window edge. you do this inside so you can remove the tape around the outer-inside-edge of the window.
remove the windows.
remove this tape around the edge of the inside of the window.
now 'butter up' the window flange with silicone.
mount the window and snug, not tight (you want to leave some silicone between the window and the flange).
using a scraper remove the squeeze-out inside and outside the window.
now, because you taped the windows, just remove the tape. you now don't need to clean the windows of silicone as they were protected by the tape.
need pictures? i can share some in a few days when i return to the shop.
:: Dave Scobie
--- On Thu, 4/18/13, George R. Iemmolo <griemmolo2@gmail.com> wrote:
I am in the process of having new Ports being cut to shape out of acrylic. I will have to drill mounting holes in the Ports is there any thing special I should be thinking about. I have been told to use a very dull drill and slow speeds.
In addition when I removed the old Ports I found that there was what appeared to be felt gaskets between the Port and the cabin hull with very little if any sealing material around the edges. The gaskets seem to be good condition. Should I just remount the new Ports using the existing gaskets?
George
M15 #602
NoNameYet
And to keep the holes from cracking over time, drill them slightly oversized. 2 or 3 thousands is all you need (a letter bit), but 1/64th is fine. jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "W David Scobie" <wdscobie@yahoo.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, April 19, 2013 6:36 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: M15 Ports
George:
Cover the new windows with 3M blue tape.
drill the mounting holes as outlined by Bob.
before using silicone mount the windows in place.
inside the boat use a very sharp knife to cut the tape around the window edge. you do this inside so you can remove the tape around the outer-inside-edge of the window.
remove the windows.
remove this tape around the edge of the inside of the window.
now 'butter up' the window flange with silicone.
mount the window and snug, not tight (you want to leave some silicone between the window and the flange).
using a scraper remove the squeeze-out inside and outside the window.
now, because you taped the windows, just remove the tape. you now don't need to clean the windows of silicone as they were protected by the tape.
need pictures? i can share some in a few days when i return to the shop.
:: Dave Scobie
--- On Thu, 4/18/13, George R. Iemmolo <griemmolo2@gmail.com> wrote:
I am in the process of having new Ports being cut to shape out of acrylic. I will have to drill mounting holes in the Ports is there any thing special I should be thinking about. I have been told to use a very dull drill and slow speeds.
In addition when I removed the old Ports I found that there was what appeared to be felt gaskets between the Port and the cabin hull with very little if any sealing material around the edges. The gaskets seem to be good condition. Should I just remount the new Ports using the existing gaskets?
George
M15 #602
NoNameYet
-- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. SPAMfighter has removed 8452 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len Do you have a slow PC? Try a Free scan http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen
Jerry Thanks for the input. The windows had the holes tapped or seemed so as they were so brittle and crazed that they just popped out of the plastic screws that were used. George -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of jerry montgomery Sent: Friday, April 19, 2013 10:20 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: M15 Ports And to keep the holes from cracking over time, drill them slightly oversized. 2 or 3 thousands is all you need (a letter bit), but 1/64th is fine. jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "W David Scobie" <wdscobie@yahoo.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, April 19, 2013 6:36 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: M15 Ports
George:
Cover the new windows with 3M blue tape.
drill the mounting holes as outlined by Bob.
before using silicone mount the windows in place.
inside the boat use a very sharp knife to cut the tape around the window edge. you do this inside so you can remove the tape around the outer-inside-edge of the window.
remove the windows.
remove this tape around the edge of the inside of the window.
now 'butter up' the window flange with silicone.
mount the window and snug, not tight (you want to leave some silicone between the window and the flange).
using a scraper remove the squeeze-out inside and outside the window.
now, because you taped the windows, just remove the tape. you now don't need to clean the windows of silicone as they were protected by the tape.
need pictures? i can share some in a few days when i return to the shop.
:: Dave Scobie
--- On Thu, 4/18/13, George R. Iemmolo <griemmolo2@gmail.com> wrote:
I am in the process of having new Ports being cut to shape out of acrylic. I will have to drill mounting holes in the Ports is there any thing special I should be thinking about. I have been told to use a very dull drill and slow speeds.
In addition when I removed the old Ports I found that there was what appeared to be felt gaskets between the Port and the cabin hull with very little if any sealing material around the edges. The gaskets seem to be good condition. Should I just remount the new Ports using the existing gaskets?
George
M15 #602
NoNameYet
-- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. SPAMfighter has removed 8452 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len Do you have a slow PC? Try a Free scan http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen
Another thing, important, is to not over-tighten the machine screws. Use plenty of silicone so that it squeezes out, and as soon as the screws hit bottom, leave it! jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "George R. Iemmolo" <griemmolo2@gmail.com> To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, April 19, 2013 9:58 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: M15 Ports
Jerry
Thanks for the input. The windows had the holes tapped or seemed so as they were so brittle and crazed that they just popped out of the plastic screws that were used.
George
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of jerry montgomery Sent: Friday, April 19, 2013 10:20 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: M15 Ports
And to keep the holes from cracking over time, drill them slightly oversized. 2 or 3 thousands is all you need (a letter bit), but 1/64th is fine.
jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "W David Scobie" <wdscobie@yahoo.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, April 19, 2013 6:36 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: M15 Ports
George:
Cover the new windows with 3M blue tape.
drill the mounting holes as outlined by Bob.
before using silicone mount the windows in place.
inside the boat use a very sharp knife to cut the tape around the window edge. you do this inside so you can remove the tape around the outer-inside-edge of the window.
remove the windows.
remove this tape around the edge of the inside of the window.
now 'butter up' the window flange with silicone.
mount the window and snug, not tight (you want to leave some silicone between the window and the flange).
using a scraper remove the squeeze-out inside and outside the window.
now, because you taped the windows, just remove the tape. you now don't need to clean the windows of silicone as they were protected by the tape.
need pictures? i can share some in a few days when i return to the shop.
:: Dave Scobie
--- On Thu, 4/18/13, George R. Iemmolo <griemmolo2@gmail.com> wrote:
I am in the process of having new Ports being cut to shape out of acrylic. I will have to drill mounting holes in the Ports is there any thing special I should be thinking about. I have been told to use a very dull drill and slow speeds.
In addition when I removed the old Ports I found that there was what appeared to be felt gaskets between the Port and the cabin hull with very little if any sealing material around the edges. The gaskets seem to be good condition. Should I just remount the new Ports using the existing gaskets?
George
M15 #602
NoNameYet
-- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. SPAMfighter has removed 8452 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len
Do you have a slow PC? Try a Free scan http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen
Spring has finally arrived in Puget Sound, so I am getting my 1986 M-15 ready to go sailing. The boat has held up well since I bought it new, and until recently has always been on fresh water, but will soon be on saltwater. I am wondering about the original rope used on the center board. It appears and feels firm, but after more than a quarter of a century of use, there is that part I cannot see. Should I replace it? If I do replace it, how? With what? Any recommendations? Steve M-15 #335
Steve- The only place I've seen pennants wear is where they go thru the fiberglass trunk- just under the teak block. If it's OK here I wouldn't worry about it, but be sure to lower the board onto the support on the trailer, so that the weight of the board won't come on the line while bouncing down the hiway. If you take the board out of the boat for any reason I'd suggest replacing it at that time whether it looks to need it or not. 5/16 double braid. jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "stevetrapp" <stevetrapp@q.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2013 8:32 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: M15 center board ropes Spring has finally arrived in Puget Sound, so I am getting my 1986 M-15 ready to go sailing. The boat has held up well since I bought it new, and until recently has always been on fresh water, but will soon be on saltwater. I am wondering about the original rope used on the center board. It appears and feels firm, but after more than a quarter of a century of use, there is that part I cannot see. Should I replace it? If I do replace it, how? With what? Any recommendations? Steve M-15 #335 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. SPAMfighter has removed 8483 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len Do you have a slow PC? Try a Free scan http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen
Jerry, Does resting the weight of the board on the support while trailering apply to the Montgomery 17 as well? I have a 2004 boat, but maybe the principle is the same. Tom On Apr 25, 2013, at 9:50 AM, jerry montgomery wrote:
Steve- The only place I've seen pennants wear is where they go thru the fiberglass trunk- just under the teak block. If it's OK here I wouldn't worry about it, but be sure to lower the board onto the support on the trailer, so that the weight of the board won't come on the line while bouncing down the hiway. If you take the board out of the boat for any reason I'd suggest replacing it at that time whether it looks to need it or not. 5/16 double braid.
jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "stevetrapp" <stevetrapp@q.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2013 8:32 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: M15 center board ropes
Spring has finally arrived in Puget Sound, so I am getting my 1986 M-15 ready to go sailing. The boat has held up well since I bought it new, and until recently has always been on fresh water, but will soon be on saltwater. I am wondering about the original rope used on the center board. It appears and feels firm, but after more than a quarter of a century of use, there is that part I cannot see. Should I replace it? If I do replace it, how? With what? Any recommendations? Steve M-15 #335
-- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. SPAMfighter has removed 8483 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len
Do you have a slow PC? Try a Free scan http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen
I don't really know about a 2004 boat- I didn't build it and there have been several changes- but I'd guess yes. jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Jenkins" <tjenk@gte.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2013 11:23 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: M15 center board ropes Jerry, Does resting the weight of the board on the support while trailering apply to the Montgomery 17 as well? I have a 2004 boat, but maybe the principle is the same. Tom On Apr 25, 2013, at 9:50 AM, jerry montgomery wrote:
Steve- The only place I've seen pennants wear is where they go thru the fiberglass trunk- just under the teak block. If it's OK here I wouldn't worry about it, but be sure to lower the board onto the support on the trailer, so that the weight of the board won't come on the line while bouncing down the hiway. If you take the board out of the boat for any reason I'd suggest replacing it at that time whether it looks to need it or not. 5/16 double braid.
jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "stevetrapp" <stevetrapp@q.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2013 8:32 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: M15 center board ropes
Spring has finally arrived in Puget Sound, so I am getting my 1986 M-15 ready to go sailing. The boat has held up well since I bought it new, and until recently has always been on fresh water, but will soon be on saltwater. I am wondering about the original rope used on the center board. It appears and feels firm, but after more than a quarter of a century of use, there is that part I cannot see. Should I replace it? If I do replace it, how? With what? Any recommendations? Steve M-15 #335
-- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. SPAMfighter has removed 8483 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len
Do you have a slow PC? Try a Free scan http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen
Jerry, Does the advice on when to replace the pennant also apply to the M17? Thanks, Rick M17 #633 Lynne L On Thursday, April 25, 2013, jerry montgomery wrote:
I don't really know about a 2004 boat- I didn't build it and there have been several changes- but I'd guess yes. jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Jenkins" <tjenk@gte.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2013 11:23 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: M15 center board ropes
Jerry,
Does resting the weight of the board on the support while trailering apply to the Montgomery 17 as well? I have a 2004 boat, but maybe the principle is the same.
Tom
On Apr 25, 2013, at 9:50 AM, jerry montgomery wrote:
Steve- The only place I've seen pennants wear is where they go thru the
fiberglass trunk- just under the teak block. If it's OK here I wouldn't worry about it, but be sure to lower the board onto the support on the trailer, so that the weight of the board won't come on the line while bouncing down the hiway. If you take the board out of the boat for any reason I'd suggest replacing it at that time whether it looks to need it or not. 5/16 double braid.
jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "stevetrapp" <stevetrapp@q.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2013 8:32 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: M15 center board ropes
Spring has finally arrived in Puget Sound, so I am getting my 1986 M-15 ready to go sailing. The boat has held up well since I bought it new, and until recently has always been on fresh water, but will soon be on saltwater. I am wondering about the original rope used on the center board. It appears and feels firm, but after more than a quarter of a century of use, there is that part I cannot see. Should I replace it? If I do replace it, how? With what? Any recommendations? Steve M-15 #335
-- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. SPAMfighter has removed 8483 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len
Do you have a slow PC? Try a Free scan http://www.spamfighter.com/** SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen<http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen>
Yes! jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick Davies" <jdavies104@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2013 11:43 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: M15 center board ropes
Jerry,
Does the advice on when to replace the pennant also apply to the M17?
Thanks,
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Thursday, April 25, 2013, jerry montgomery wrote:
I don't really know about a 2004 boat- I didn't build it and there have been several changes- but I'd guess yes. jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Jenkins" <tjenk@gte.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2013 11:23 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: M15 center board ropes
Jerry,
Does resting the weight of the board on the support while trailering apply to the Montgomery 17 as well? I have a 2004 boat, but maybe the principle is the same.
Tom
On Apr 25, 2013, at 9:50 AM, jerry montgomery wrote:
Steve- The only place I've seen pennants wear is where they go thru the
fiberglass trunk- just under the teak block. If it's OK here I wouldn't worry about it, but be sure to lower the board onto the support on the trailer, so that the weight of the board won't come on the line while bouncing down the hiway. If you take the board out of the boat for any reason I'd suggest replacing it at that time whether it looks to need it or not. 5/16 double braid.
jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "stevetrapp" <stevetrapp@q.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2013 8:32 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: M15 center board ropes
Spring has finally arrived in Puget Sound, so I am getting my 1986 M-15 ready to go sailing. The boat has held up well since I bought it new, and until recently has always been on fresh water, but will soon be on saltwater. I am wondering about the original rope used on the center board. It appears and feels firm, but after more than a quarter of a century of use, there is that part I cannot see. Should I replace it? If I do replace it, how? With what? Any recommendations? Steve M-15 #335
-- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. SPAMfighter has removed 8483 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len
Do you have a slow PC? Try a Free scan http://www.spamfighter.com/** SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen<http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen>
Dave Thanks for the detailed instructions. I believe I understand them but pictures will help and I am a few days away from remounting them. Again thanks this is a great community to be a part of. George -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of W David Scobie Sent: Friday, April 19, 2013 8:37 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: M15 Ports George: Cover the new windows with 3M blue tape. drill the mounting holes as outlined by Bob. before using silicone mount the windows in place. inside the boat use a very sharp knife to cut the tape around the window edge. you do this inside so you can remove the tape around the outer-inside-edge of the window. remove the windows. remove this tape around the edge of the inside of the window. now 'butter up' the window flange with silicone. mount the window and snug, not tight (you want to leave some silicone between the window and the flange). using a scraper remove the squeeze-out inside and outside the window. now, because you taped the windows, just remove the tape. you now don't need to clean the windows of silicone as they were protected by the tape. need pictures? i can share some in a few days when i return to the shop. :: Dave Scobie --- On Thu, 4/18/13, George R. Iemmolo <griemmolo2@gmail.com> wrote:
I am in the process of having new Ports being cut to shape out of acrylic. I will have to drill mounting holes in the Ports is there any thing special I should be thinking about. I have been told to use a very dull drill and slow speeds.
In addition when I removed the old Ports I found that there was what appeared to be felt gaskets between the Port and the cabin hull with very little if any sealing material around the edges. The gaskets seem to be good condition. Should I just remount the new Ports using the existing gaskets?
George
M15 #602
NoNameYet
participants (8)
-
Bob Eeg -
George R. Iemmolo -
jerry montgomery -
pam and dana -
Rick Davies -
stevetrapp -
Tom Jenkins -
W David Scobie