Chris Smith: One time many years ago, we flipped a bare hull Venture 21 over on some?boards over the trailer frame and?ran it down to Earl Shibe (we paint anything). They?masked the deck for overspsray and did the hull, up to the deck line. Professionally?painted and baked. It?held up?well for?over 20 years, and we got the hull, keel and all without any hanging marks or strap marks. Pretty basic, but depending on what you plan to do, this would beat spray cans, brushing, and you are using technicians who have done spraying before....... John in Tucson -----Original Message----- From: Chris Smith <chris.r.smith@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 1:41 pm Subject: Re: M_Boats: painting hull cool. Thanks, John. I've never done anything like this before so any advice/training/ideas on how the process went would be great. Details like how he got at the hull to paint (suspend? jack it up?), if he brushed or sprayed it, how to keep the coats even (such as painting around straps if suspended), how many coats to put on, etc. would certainly be appreciated. Did he fill the dings with epoxy? Bondo? I fiberglassed some holes in the hull and build up some worn parts (where they dragged it up from the bottom of the sea?) with bondo, so I've got some experience in doing that - I just don't know if that's the best way. The keel has a pretty worn part that needs to be built up and glassed, so I've got some work to do before painting... My sailing buddy/teacher/dad introduced me to appliance paint in a spray can, which I've used with some success in painting some household stuff and getting a good glossy finish. Does that sound like a reasonable alternative? Also, how expensive is the paint and how much did you use? Thanks again for all the help! Chris M15 - Persephone On Tue, Dec 30, 2008 at 2:13 PM, John R. Butler <theoldcat@cox.net> wrote:

For Chris: My '86 had badly faded gelcoat. My sailing buddy (half my age and thrice my capabilities, I'm 80 and fully disabled) wet sanded the entire hull, filled all dings, then painted it with an automotive two-part poly paint. Above the water, will last for years just like the new cars do. It is BEAUTIFUL! I can give color photos and paint specs off line if wished.

John R. Butler theoldcat@cox.net First M15 was "Joy", '83 #264 Now sail "Rejoyce!", '86 #361

_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!

-- Chris _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!

Chris, I just recently refurbished a Boston Whaler Harpoon 5.2 that had been damaged in Hurricane Rita. Once all the nicks and dings were repaired using fiberglass and Mrine-Tex putty I coarse sanded the entire hull followed by fine sanding and then wet sanding. I had the hull upside down on concrete blocks padded with high density foam blocks. I masked and skirted the rail area to protect the deck and cockpit and spray painted the hull with one coat of marine primer and three coats of Acrylic marine enamel. I then masked and painted the boot stripe in the origonal light blue. I then righted the boat and repaired and painted the cockpit and deck area and re-installed all the hardware and teak trim. After adding origoanl style decals and stripes, the boat looked like new. I have done several boats over the years the same way and many have lasted for 15 or more years looking good. As soon as the weather warms up a bit, I will paint Griselda, my 1974 M17 that I am restoring. Ron M17 #14, Griselda Lake Livingston, Texas.a > To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 16:35:31 -0500> From: jslubliner@aol.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: painting hull> > Chris Smith: One time many years ago, we flipped a bare hull Venture 21 over on some?boards over the trailer frame and?ran it down to Earl Shibe (we paint anything). They?masked the deck for overspsray and did the hull, up to the deck line. Professionally?painted and baked. It?held up?well for?over 20 years, and we got the hull, keel and all without any hanging marks or strap marks. Pretty basic, but depending on what you plan to do, this would beat spray cans, brushing, and you are using technicians who have done spraying before.......> > John in Tucson> > > -----Original Message-----> From: Chris Smith <chris.r.smith@gmail.com>> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com>> Sent: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 1:41 pm> Subject: Re: M_Boats: painting hull> > > > cool. Thanks, John.> I've never done anything like this before so any advice/training/ideas on> how the process went would be great.> > Details like how he got at the hull to paint (suspend? jack it up?), if he> brushed or sprayed it, how to keep the coats even (such as painting around> straps if suspended), how many coats to put on, etc. would certainly be> appreciated.> > Did he fill the dings with epoxy? Bondo? I fiberglassed some holes in the> hull and build up some worn parts (where they dragged it up from the bottom> of the sea?) with bondo, so I've got some experience in doing that - I just> don't know if that's the best way. The keel has a pretty worn part that> needs to be built up and glassed, so I've got some work to do before> painting...> > My sailing buddy/teacher/dad introduced me to appliance paint in a spray> can, which I've used with some success in painting some household stuff and> getting a good glossy finish. Does that sound like a reasonable> alternative?> > Also, how expensive is the paint and how much did you use?> > Thanks again for all the help!> > Chris> M15 - Persephone> > On Tue, Dec 30, 2008 at 2:13 PM, John R. Butler <theoldcat@cox.net> wrote:> > > For Chris: My '86 had badly faded gelcoat. My sailing buddy (half my> > age and thrice my capabilities, I'm 80 and fully disabled) wet sanded> > the entire hull, filled all dings, then painted it with an automotive> > two-part poly paint. Above the water, will last for years just like> > the new cars do. It is BEAUTIFUL! I can give color photos and paint> > specs off line if wished.> >> > John R. Butler> > theoldcat@cox.net> > First M15 was "Joy", '83 #264> > Now sail "Rejoyce!", '86 #361> >> >> >> >> > _______________________________________________> > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats> >> > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!> >> > > > -- > Chris> _______________________________________________> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats> > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!> > _______________________________________________> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats> > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! _________________________________________________________________ It’s the same Hotmail®. If by “same” you mean up to 70% faster. http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_broad1_1...

Chris, I refinished the teak trim using a marine varnish with a high UV factor. First, I wet washed the teak using a scotchbrite pad and Mean Graan to remove the dirt and grime and rinsed it thouroghly. Then I lightly sanded till I had a smooth, light uniform teak color. I had all the teak removed so I was able to go out each day and apply a light coat. I used Captans Choice Marine spar varnish with UV shield which is now marketed under the Rust Oleum brand name. To turn the boat over, I first "launched the boat off onto the grass and recruited a group of young strong neighbors. We set up concrete blocks with a pad of high density foam about 7 feet to one side and by brute force, turned the boat over and set it on the blocks. Having used Captans choice products a few times in the past, I went with the Rust Oleum brand marine paint (same product) from Lowes. After painting and 5 days drying time, I laid strips of styrfoam on the ground and had my strongman crew flip it over onto the foam strips. I then winched the boat back onto the trailer as if at a launch ramp. A good carpet of St Augustine grass wet down with a water hose allowed the boat to slide easily. One piece of advice I will add is to make sure the surface is absolutely clean before painting or varnishing. I wash it with a mild detergent followed by a wipedown with acetone just before painting. I have a compressor and spray gun and have painted several boats and cars over the years. The first time out, if you get a spray gun setup is to get some scrap sheet metal and practice until you are able to lay down a smooth paint coat without runs, orangepeel or fuzzyness.. Trying to put on the paint too thick is a sure way to get runs. More light coats work better. After the first one, the rest are easy. I estimate that i have done about 18 boats over the 55 years I have been sailing. Good luck. RonM17 #14, GriseldaLake Livingston, Texas> Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 16:21:50 -0600> From: chris.r.smith@gmail.com> To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: painting hull> > Wow! That's exactly what I was looking for.> Did you refinish the teak trim? If so, how? I've heard sanding or teak> oil...> > On Tue, Dec 30, 2008 at 3:52 PM, Ronnie Keeler <ronkeeler@hotmail.com>wrote:> > >> > Chris,> >> > I just recently refurbished a Boston Whaler Harpoon 5.2 that had been> > damaged in Hurricane Rita. Once all the nicks and dings were repaired using> > fiberglass and Mrine-Tex putty I coarse sanded the entire hull followed by> > fine sanding and then wet sanding. I had the hull upside down on concrete> > blocks padded with high density foam blocks. I masked and skirted the rail> > area to protect the deck and cockpit and spray painted the hull with one> > coat of marine primer and three coats of Acrylic marine enamel. I then> > masked and painted the boot stripe in the origonal light blue. I then> > righted the boat and repaired and painted the cockpit and deck area and> > re-installed all the hardware and teak trim.> >> > After adding origoanl style decals and stripes, the boat looked like new.> > I have done several boats over the years the same way and many have lasted> > for 15 or more years looking good. As soon as the weather warms up a bit, I> > will paint Griselda, my 1974 M17 that I am restoring.> >> > Ron> > M17 #14, Griselda> > Lake Livingston, Texas.a > To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com>> > Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 16:35:31 -0500> From: jslubliner@aol.com> Subject:> > Re: M_Boats: painting hull> > Chris Smith: One time many years ago, we> > flipped a bare hull Venture 21 over on some?boards over the trailer frame> > and?ran it down to Earl Shibe (we paint anything). They?masked the deck for> > overspsray and did the hull, up to the deck line. Professionally?painted and> > baked. It?held up?well for?over 20 years, and we got the hull, keel and all> > without any hanging marks or strap marks. Pretty basic, but depending on> > what you plan to do, this would beat spray cans, brushing, and you are using> > technicians who have done spraying before.......> > John in Tucson> > >> > -----Original Message-----> From: Chris Smith <chris.r.smith@gmail.com>>> > To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <> > montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com>> Sent: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 1:41 pm>> > Subject: Re: M_Boats: painting hull> > > > cool. Thanks, John.> I've never> > done anything like this before so any advice/training/ideas on> how the> > process went would be great.> > Details like how he got at the hull to paint> > (suspend? jack it up?), if he> brushed or sprayed it, how to keep the coats> > even (such as painting around> straps if suspended), how many coats to put> > on, etc. would certainly be> appreciated.> > Did he fill the dings with> > epoxy? Bondo? I fiberglassed some holes in the> hull and build up some worn> > parts (where they dragged it up from the bottom> of the sea?) with bondo, so> > I've got some experience in doing that - I just> don't know if that's the> > best way. The keel has a pretty worn part that> needs to be built up and> > glassed, so I've got some work to do before> painting...> > My sailing> > buddy/teacher/dad introduced me to appliance paint in a spray> can, which> > I've used with some success in painting some household stuff and> getting a> > good glossy finish. Does that sound like a reasonable> alternative?> > Also,> > how expensive is the paint and how much did you use?> > Thanks again for all> > the help!> > Chris> M15 - Persephone> > On Tue, Dec 30, 2008 at 2:13 PM,> > John R. Butler <theoldcat@cox.net> wrote:> > > For Chris: My '86 had badly> > faded gelcoat. My sailing buddy (half my> > age and thrice my capabilities,> > I'm 80 and fully disabled) wet sanded> > the entire hull, filled all dings,> > then painted it with an automotive> > two-part poly paint. Above the water,> > will last for years just like> > the new cars do. It is BEAUTIFUL! I can> > give color photos and paint> > specs off line if wished.> >> > John R.> > Butler> > theoldcat@cox.net> > First M15 was "Joy", '83 #264> > Now sail> > "Rejoyce!", '86 #361> >> >> >> >> >> > _______________________________________________> >> > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats> >>> > > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!> >> > > > -- > Chris>> > _______________________________________________>> > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats> >> > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!> >> > _______________________________________________>> > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats> >> > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!> > _________________________________________________________________> > It's the same Hotmail(R). If by "same" you mean up to 70% faster.> >> > http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_broad1_122008> > _______________________________________________> > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats> >> > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!> >> > > > -- > Chris> _______________________________________________> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats> > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! _________________________________________________________________ It’s the same Hotmail®. If by “same” you mean up to 70% faster. http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_broad1_1...

Chris, I did get a bit of stuff in the paint until the last coat. I just picked out the bits of dust and sanded very lightly between coats. Wen I did the final coat, I waited for an absolutley still day and wet eveything nearby down to keep the dust down. I had big poly tarps tied between trees on either side of the boat. A bigger problem was keeping my own sweat from dripping in the paint or on the unpainted surface. The heat also speeded up drying time which helped. I am currently sanding Griselda's bottom and topsides for barrier coat and painting. Being an early boat, Griselda has the perforated aluminum toe rail and I will attch struts to the toe rail to keep her upright when I remove the trailer bunks on one side at a time to paint the bottom. I will then jack up the trailer bunk brackets to paint the bottom of the keel. Griselda has a cast iron iixed keel only found on 20 of the first year boats. Remember, if you screw up, you can sand it back down and try again. Ron M17 #14, Griselda Lake Livingston, Texas.

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 17:02:01 -0600> From: chris.r.smith@gmail.com> To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: painting hull> > Neat. Now I'm starting to get excited!> How did you keep dust and stuff from embedding in the paint during drying?> > On Tue, Dec 30, 2008 at 4:54 PM, Ronnie Keeler <ronkeeler@hotmail.com>wrote:> > >> > Chris, I refinished the teak trim using a marine varnish with a high UV> > factor. First, I wet washed the teak using a scotchbrite pad and Mean Graan> > to remove the dirt and grime and rinsed it thouroghly. Then I lightly> > sanded till I had a smooth, light uniform teak color. I had all the teak> > removed so I was able to go out each day and apply a light coat. I used> > Captans Choice Marine spar varnish with UV shield which is now marketed> > under the Rust Oleum brand name. To turn the boat over, I first "launched> > the boat off onto the grass and recruited a group of young strong neighbors.> > We set up concrete blocks with a pad of high density foam about 7 feet to> > one side and by brute force, turned the boat over and set it on the blocks.> > Having used Captans choice products a few times in the past, I went with> > the Rust Oleum brand marine paint (same product) from Lowes. After painting> > and 5 days drying time, I laid strips of styrfoam on the ground and had my> > strongman crew flip it over onto the foam strips. I then winched the boat> > back onto the trailer as if at a launch ramp. A good carpet of St Augustine> > grass wet down with a water hose allowed the boat to slide easily. One piece> > of advice I will add is to make sure the surface is absolutely clean before> > painting or varnishing. I wash it with a mild detergent followed by a> > wipedown with acetone just before painting. I have a compressor and spray> > gun and have painted several boats and cars over the years. The first time> > out, if you get a spray gun setup is to get some scrap sheet metal and> > practice until you are able to lay down a smooth paint coat without runs,> > orangepeel or fuzzyness.. Trying to put on the paint too thick is a sure> > way to get runs. More light coats work better. After the first one, the> > rest are easy. I estimate that i have done about 18 boats over the 55 years> > I have been sailing. Good luck. RonM17 #14, GriseldaLake Livingston, Texas>> > Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 16:21:50 -0600> From: chris.r.smith@gmail.com> To:> > montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: painting> > hull> > Wow! That's exactly what I was looking for.> Did you refinish the> > teak trim? If so, how? I've heard sanding or teak> oil...> > On Tue, Dec 30,> > 2008 at 3:52 PM, Ronnie Keeler <ronkeeler@hotmail.com>wrote:> > >> >> > Chris,> >> > I just recently refurbished a Boston Whaler Harpoon 5.2 that> > had been> > damaged in Hurricane Rita. Once all the nicks and dings were> > repaired using> > fiberglass and Mrine-Tex putty I coarse sanded the entire> > hull followed by> > fine sanding and then wet sanding. I had the hull upside> > down on concrete> > blocks padded with high density foam blocks. I masked> > and skirted the rail> > area to protect the deck and cockpit and spray> > painted the hull with one> > coat of marine primer and three coats of> > Acrylic marine enamel. I then> > masked and painted the boot stripe in the> > origonal light blue. I then> > righted the boat and repaired and painted the> > cockpit and deck area and> > re-installed all the hardware and teak trim.>> > >> > After adding origoanl style decals and stripes, the boat looked like> > new.> > I have done several boats over the years the same way and many have> > lasted> > for 15 or more years looking good. As soon as the weather warms up> > a bit, I> > will paint Griselda, my 1974 M17 that I am restoring.> >> > Ron>> > > M17 #14, Griselda> > Lake Livingston, Texas.a > To:> > montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com>> > Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 16:35:31> > -0500> From: jslubliner@aol.com> Subject:> > Re: M_Boats: painting hull> >> > Chris Smith: One time many years ago, we> > flipped a bare hull Venture 21> > over on some?boards over the trailer frame> > and?ran it down to Earl Shibe> > (we paint anything). They?masked the deck for> > overspsray and did the> > hull, up to the deck line. Professionally?painted and> > baked. It?held> > up?well for?over 20 years, and we got the hull, keel and all> > without any> > hanging marks or strap marks. Pretty basic, but depending on> > what you> > plan to do, this would beat spray cans, brushing, and you are using> >> > technicians who have done spraying before.......> > John in Tucson> > >> >> > -----Original Message-----> From: Chris Smith <chris.r.smith@gmail.com>>>> > > To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <> >> > montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com>> Sent: Tue, 30 Dec 2008 1:41 pm>> >> > Subject: Re: M_Boats: painting hull> > > > cool. Thanks, John.> I've never>> > > done anything like this before so any advice/training/ideas on> how the> >> > process went would be great.> > Details like how he got at the hull to> > paint> > (suspend? jack it up?), if he> brushed or sprayed it, how to keep> > the coats> > even (such as painting around> straps if suspended), how many> > coats to put> > on, etc. would certainly be> appreciated.> > Did he fill the> > dings with> > epoxy? Bondo? I fiberglassed some holes in the> hull and build> > up some worn> > parts (where they dragged it up from the bottom> of the> > sea?) with bondo, so> > I've got some experience in doing that - I just>> > don't know if that's the> > best way. The keel has a pretty worn part that>> > needs to be built up and> > glassed, so I've got some work to do before>> > painting...> > My sailing> > buddy/teacher/dad introduced me to appliance> > paint in a spray> can, which> > I've used with some success in painting some> > household stuff and> getting a> > good glossy finish. Does that sound like a> > reasonable> alternative?> > Also,> > how expensive is the paint and how much> > did you use?> > Thanks again for all> > the help!> > Chris> M15 -> > Persephone> > On Tue, Dec 30, 2008 at 2:13 PM,> > John R. Butler <> > theoldcat@cox.net> wrote:> > > For Chris: My '86 had badly> > faded> > gelcoat. My sailing buddy (half my> > age and thrice my capabilities,> > I'm> > 80 and fully disabled) wet sanded> > the entire hull, filled all dings,> >> > then painted it with an automotive> > two-part poly paint. Above the water,>> > > will last for years just like> > the new cars do. It is BEAUTIFUL! I can>> > > give color photos and paint> > specs off line if wished.> >> > John R.> >> > Butler> > theoldcat@cox.net> > First M15 was "Joy", '83 #264> > Now sail>> > > "Rejoyce!", '86 #361> >> >> >> >> >> >> > _______________________________________________> >> >> > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats> >>>> > > > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!> >> > > > -- > Chris>> >> > _______________________________________________>> >> > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats> >>> > > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!> >> >> > _______________________________________________>> >> > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats> >>> > > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!> >> > _________________________________________________________________> > It's> > the same Hotmail(R). If by "same" you mean up to 70% faster.> >> >> > http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_broad1_122008>> > > _______________________________________________> >> > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats> >>> > > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!> >> > > > -- > Chris>> > _______________________________________________>> > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats> >> > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!> > _________________________________________________________________> > It's the same Hotmail(R). If by "same" you mean up to 70% faster.> >> > http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_broad1_122008> > _______________________________________________> > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats> >> > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!> >> > > > -- > Chris> _______________________________________________> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats> > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!

It’s the same Hotmail®. If by “same” you mean up to 70% faster. http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_broad1_1...