Companion way slats M15
Do any of you skippers know where to get new teak boards? Thanks Capt Jim Sadler SV Pelican M-15 -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com> On Behalf Of Bob Eeg Sent: Friday, September 18, 2020 11:53 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Center board pivot Larry is correct. 44 has a new bottom, lead ballast and a new pin. The board was already epoxied by Sean. Bob Sent from my iPad
On Sep 18, 2020, at 11:37 AM, Larry Yake <larryyake@gmail.com> wrote:
Why are you replacing the pin, Jon? Problems? As I recall, your boat Ol'44 had the centerboard and keel completely reworked when Sean had the boat, not that many years ago.
On Fri, Sep 18, 2020 at 10:54 AM Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
My Monty 17 had a ss 1/2 inch bolt. Get a drift pin (long flat end punch) and start by tapping on it with a hammer. This is after you carefully clean out both sides of the pivot pin pockets to be sure which end is the one to tap on. Mine had a nut and bolt head on them, respectively. Check to see what was used on your hull. Be sure to support the board before driving the pin out and, actually wedge it up to take the weight off the pin. It would be a good idea too to remove the stop bolt at the aft lower end of the board which is 3/8th inch in diameter before removing the pivot bolt. When replacing that lower stop pin, while doing so slip a piece of nylon reinforced fuel line hose with a 3/8 inch diameter hole in it to act as a bumper in the future. Having that rubber hose on that stop bolt works wonders when cushioning the contact between center board and stop bolt! As long as the board is out, it would be a good time to check the lanyard knot connecting the board raising line to the centerboard.
On Fri, Sep 18, 2020 at 8:46 AM Jon Barber <brbrbarber@gmail.com> wrote:
I would like to replace the c board pivot pin . Monty17 It will not budge Any ideas? Also ,what size and type of bolt was stock? Thanks Jon Montgomery 17 Ol'44
Specialty lumber yards will have them. Regular outlets like Home Depot will not. Google the yellow pages in your town. Actually, 3/8 or 1/2 inch teak faced plywood would also work and be lighter and a bit stronger. If you are near a boat yard that does marine repair they may have enough scraps for you to use to remake your hatch boards. On Sat, Sep 19, 2020 at 1:01 PM Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Do any of you skippers know where to get new teak boards?
Thanks Capt Jim Sadler SV Pelican M-15
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com> On Behalf Of Bob Eeg Sent: Friday, September 18, 2020 11:53 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Center board pivot
Larry is correct. 44 has a new bottom, lead ballast and a new pin. The board was already epoxied by Sean. Bob
Sent from my iPad
On Sep 18, 2020, at 11:37 AM, Larry Yake <larryyake@gmail.com> wrote:
Why are you replacing the pin, Jon? Problems? As I recall, your boat Ol'44 had the centerboard and keel completely reworked when Sean had the boat, not that many years ago.
On Fri, Sep 18, 2020 at 10:54 AM Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
My Monty 17 had a ss 1/2 inch bolt. Get a drift pin (long flat end punch) and start by tapping on it with a hammer. This is after you carefully clean out both sides of the pivot pin pockets to be sure which end is the one to tap on. Mine had a nut and bolt head on them, respectively. Check to see what was used on your hull. Be sure to support the board before driving the pin out and, actually wedge it up to take the weight off the pin. It would be a good idea too to remove the stop bolt at the aft lower end of the board which is 3/8th inch in diameter before removing the pivot bolt. When replacing that lower stop pin, while doing so slip a piece of nylon reinforced fuel line hose with a 3/8 inch diameter hole in it to act as a bumper in the future. Having that rubber hose on that stop bolt works wonders when cushioning the contact between center board and stop bolt! As long as the board is out, it would be a good time to check the lanyard knot connecting the board raising line to the centerboard.
On Fri, Sep 18, 2020 at 8:46 AM Jon Barber <brbrbarber@gmail.com> wrote:
I would like to replace the c board pivot pin . Monty17 It will not budge Any ideas? Also ,what size and type of bolt was stock? Thanks Jon Montgomery 17 Ol'44
For my new M17 hatch boards I made a couple seasons ago I used 12mm birch ply, glassed on one side (the outside), all edges sealed with epoxy (actually, sealed with CPES first and then epoxy and varnish for UV protection. It's fairly easy to find from lumberyards that provide to cabinet makers etc. as it's a very common cabinet plywood, and looks really nice too, light colored vs. teak usually darker. Comes in 5'x5' sheets commonly (4x8 also available). cheers, John On 9/19/20 11:08 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Specialty lumber yards will have them. Regular outlets like Home Depot will not. Google the yellow pages in your town. Actually, 3/8 or 1/2 inch teak faced plywood would also work and be lighter and a bit stronger. If you are near a boat yard that does marine repair they may have enough scraps for you to use to remake your hatch boards.
On Sat, Sep 19, 2020 at 1:01 PM Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Do any of you skippers know where to get new teak boards?
Thanks Capt Jim Sadler SV Pelican M-15
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com> On Behalf Of Bob Eeg Sent: Friday, September 18, 2020 11:53 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Center board pivot
Larry is correct. 44 has a new bottom, lead ballast and a new pin. The board was already epoxied by Sean. Bob
Sent from my iPad
On Sep 18, 2020, at 11:37 AM, Larry Yake <larryyake@gmail.com> wrote:
Why are you replacing the pin, Jon? Problems? As I recall, your boat Ol'44 had the centerboard and keel completely reworked when Sean had the boat, not that many years ago.
On Fri, Sep 18, 2020 at 10:54 AM Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
My Monty 17 had a ss 1/2 inch bolt. Get a drift pin (long flat end punch) and start by tapping on it with a hammer. This is after you carefully clean out both sides of the pivot pin pockets to be sure which end is the one to tap on. Mine had a nut and bolt head on them, respectively. Check to see what was used on your hull. Be sure to support the board before driving the pin out and, actually wedge it up to take the weight off the pin. It would be a good idea too to remove the stop bolt at the aft lower end of the board which is 3/8th inch in diameter before removing the pivot bolt. When replacing that lower stop pin, while doing so slip a piece of nylon reinforced fuel line hose with a 3/8 inch diameter hole in it to act as a bumper in the future. Having that rubber hose on that stop bolt works wonders when cushioning the contact between center board and stop bolt! As long as the board is out, it would be a good time to check the lanyard knot connecting the board raising line to the centerboard.
On Fri, Sep 18, 2020 at 8:46 AM Jon Barber <brbrbarber@gmail.com> wrote:
I would like to replace the c board pivot pin . Monty17 It will not budge Any ideas? Also ,what size and type of bolt was stock? Thanks Jon Montgomery 17 Ol'44
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
Depending on size needed I buy from Amazon. Good selection. Charlie Adams Sent from my iPad
On Sep 19, 2020, at 2:01 PM, Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Do any of you skippers know where to get new teak boards?
Thanks Capt Jim Sadler SV Pelican M-15
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com> On Behalf Of Bob Eeg Sent: Friday, September 18, 2020 11:53 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Center board pivot
Larry is correct. 44 has a new bottom, lead ballast and a new pin. The board was already epoxied by Sean. Bob
Sent from my iPad
On Sep 18, 2020, at 11:37 AM, Larry Yake <larryyake@gmail.com> wrote:
Why are you replacing the pin, Jon? Problems? As I recall, your boat Ol'44 had the centerboard and keel completely reworked when Sean had the boat, not that many years ago.
On Fri, Sep 18, 2020 at 10:54 AM Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
My Monty 17 had a ss 1/2 inch bolt. Get a drift pin (long flat end punch) and start by tapping on it with a hammer. This is after you carefully clean out both sides of the pivot pin pockets to be sure which end is the one to tap on. Mine had a nut and bolt head on them, respectively. Check to see what was used on your hull. Be sure to support the board before driving the pin out and, actually wedge it up to take the weight off the pin. It would be a good idea too to remove the stop bolt at the aft lower end of the board which is 3/8th inch in diameter before removing the pivot bolt. When replacing that lower stop pin, while doing so slip a piece of nylon reinforced fuel line hose with a 3/8 inch diameter hole in it to act as a bumper in the future. Having that rubber hose on that stop bolt works wonders when cushioning the contact between center board and stop bolt! As long as the board is out, it would be a good time to check the lanyard knot connecting the board raising line to the centerboard.
On Fri, Sep 18, 2020 at 8:46 AM Jon Barber <brbrbarber@gmail.com> wrote:
I would like to replace the c board pivot pin . Monty17 It will not budge Any ideas? Also ,what size and type of bolt was stock? Thanks Jon Montgomery 17 Ol'44
Jim: Marine plywood is a better choice. Solid wood can Warp, especial at the thinness needed for the companionway hatchboards. Teak veneer is nice but sapele is less expensive and close in color/look. As others have written epoxy the edges. Finish the outer/inner sides to match existing teak. :: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred/ On Sat, Sep 19, 2020, 11:02 AM Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Do any of you skippers know where to get new teak boards?
Thanks Capt Jim Sadler SV Pelican M-15
Well, if you can find vertical grain, air dried wood, it’s doable from natural lumber. Labor of love, starting with looking for it. Laminating also doable. 12 mm exotic wood marine grade ply practical. I learned that flat surface epoxy covering quite easy with scavenging cloth over wet resin. Peel away when set, easy to finish surface left. Free hand epoxy takes some skill, maddening to sand to a nice finish. Ed Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 20, 2020, at 3:10 PM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Jim:
Marine plywood is a better choice. Solid wood can Warp, especial at the thinness needed for the companionway hatchboards. Teak veneer is nice but sapele is less expensive and close in color/look.
As others have written epoxy the edges. Finish the outer/inner sides to match existing teak.
:: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred/
On Sat, Sep 19, 2020, 11:02 AM Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Do any of you skippers know where to get new teak boards?
Thanks Capt Jim Sadler SV Pelican M-15
This will sound like a dumb idea and everyone will say not to do it because it won't last but the hatch boards I made for Chiquita some 15 years ago are still in use. I laminated two layers of cheap 3/16" (?) luan plywood from the box store to make the panels. It is sold as floor underlayment and has a nice mahogany type grain. I believe it is made with waterproof glue, but no matter if it isn't. The trick is to thoroughly encapsulate the finished boards with epoxy. The exposed side needs to also be varnished for UV protection. YMMV. I just made a set for Monita last winter using a face layer of luan and a back layer of birch plywood. (I like the look of the luan/mahogany grain better than the birch.) I epoxied all sides, varnished the fronts and painted the backs white. This keeps the kids from trying to put them in backwards! A teak louvered insert from Amazon adds ventilation. The edges that slide in the channels have an extra layer of epoxy with graphite powder as a wear layer and to help them in more easily. Henry Monita On Sun, Sep 20, 2020 at 5:19 PM Edward Epifani <edepifani@hotmail.com> wrote:
Well, if you can find vertical grain, air dried wood, it’s doable from natural lumber. Labor of love, starting with looking for it. Laminating also doable. 12 mm exotic wood marine grade ply practical. I learned that flat surface epoxy covering quite easy with scavenging cloth over wet resin. Peel away when set, easy to finish surface left. Free hand epoxy takes some skill, maddening to sand to a nice finish. Ed
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 20, 2020, at 3:10 PM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Jim:
Marine plywood is a better choice. Solid wood can Warp, especial at the thinness needed for the companionway hatchboards. Teak veneer is nice but sapele is less expensive and close in color/look.
As others have written epoxy the edges. Finish the outer/inner sides to match existing teak.
:: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred/
On Sat, Sep 19, 2020, 11:02 AM Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Do any of you skippers know where to get new teak boards?
Thanks Capt Jim Sadler SV Pelican M-15
-- Henry Rodriguez https://www.flickr.com/photos/heinzir/albums
Nice job Henry. Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 20, 2020, at 4:15 PM, Henry Rodriguez <heinzir@gmail.com> wrote:
This will sound like a dumb idea and everyone will say not to do it because it won't last but the hatch boards I made for Chiquita some 15 years ago are still in use. I laminated two layers of cheap 3/16" (?) luan plywood from the box store to make the panels. It is sold as floor underlayment and has a nice mahogany type grain. I believe it is made with waterproof glue, but no matter if it isn't. The trick is to thoroughly encapsulate the finished boards with epoxy. The exposed side needs to also be varnished for UV protection. YMMV.
I just made a set for Monita last winter using a face layer of luan and a back layer of birch plywood. (I like the look of the luan/mahogany grain better than the birch.) I epoxied all sides, varnished the fronts and painted the backs white. This keeps the kids from trying to put them in backwards! A teak louvered insert from Amazon adds ventilation. The edges that slide in the channels have an extra layer of epoxy with graphite powder as a wear layer and to help them in more easily.
Henry Monita
On Sun, Sep 20, 2020 at 5:19 PM Edward Epifani <edepifani@hotmail.com> wrote:
Well, if you can find vertical grain, air dried wood, it’s doable from natural lumber. Labor of love, starting with looking for it. Laminating also doable. 12 mm exotic wood marine grade ply practical. I learned that flat surface epoxy covering quite easy with scavenging cloth over wet resin. Peel away when set, easy to finish surface left. Free hand epoxy takes some skill, maddening to sand to a nice finish. Ed
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 20, 2020, at 3:10 PM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
Jim:
Marine plywood is a better choice. Solid wood can Warp, especial at the thinness needed for the companionway hatchboards. Teak veneer is nice but sapele is less expensive and close in color/look.
As others have written epoxy the edges. Finish the outer/inner sides to match existing teak.
:: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred/
On Sat, Sep 19, 2020, 11:02 AM Jim Sadler <jimsadler@jascopacific.com> wrote:
Do any of you skippers know where to get new teak boards?
Thanks Capt Jim Sadler SV Pelican M-15
-- Henry Rodriguez https://www.flickr.com/photos/heinzir/albums
Hey Randy.... Nice to hear from you. I hope all is well. 😎 Bob Eeg Sent from my iPad On Sep 20, 2020, at 5:28 PM, Randy Sommerfeld <sommerfeldrandy@gmail.com> wrote: I used some marine grade mahogany plywood, seems to work well. I bought it on line, 2 2x4 ½ in sheets. <76B93DA6D0DE4D87896500EAAB852B08.jpg> Randy Sommerfeld M-17 No Worries Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10 From: Jim Sadler<mailto:jimsadler@jascopacific.com> Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2020 1:01 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats<mailto:montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: M_Boats: Companion way slats M15 Do any of you skippers know where to get new teak boards? Thanks Capt Jim Sadler SV Pelican M-15 -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com> On Behalf Of Bob Eeg Sent: Friday, September 18, 2020 11:53 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Center board pivot Larry is correct. 44 has a new bottom, lead ballast and a new pin. The board was already epoxied by Sean. Bob Sent from my iPad
On Sep 18, 2020, at 11:37 AM, Larry Yake <larryyake@gmail.com> wrote:
Why are you replacing the pin, Jon? Problems? As I recall, your boat Ol'44 had the centerboard and keel completely reworked when Sean had the boat, not that many years ago.
On Fri, Sep 18, 2020 at 10:54 AM Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
My Monty 17 had a ss 1/2 inch bolt. Get a drift pin (long flat end punch) and start by tapping on it with a hammer. This is after you carefully clean out both sides of the pivot pin pockets to be sure which end is the one to tap on. Mine had a nut and bolt head on them, respectively. Check to see what was used on your hull. Be sure to support the board before driving the pin out and, actually wedge it up to take the weight off the pin. It would be a good idea too to remove the stop bolt at the aft lower end of the board which is 3/8th inch in diameter before removing the pivot bolt. When replacing that lower stop pin, while doing so slip a piece of nylon reinforced fuel line hose with a 3/8 inch diameter hole in it to act as a bumper in the future. Having that rubber hose on that stop bolt works wonders when cushioning the contact between center board and stop bolt! As long as the board is out, it would be a good time to check the lanyard knot connecting the board raising line to the centerboard.
On Fri, Sep 18, 2020 at 8:46 AM Jon Barber <brbrbarber@gmail.com> wrote:
I would like to replace the c board pivot pin . Monty17 It will not budge Any ideas? Also ,what size and type of bolt was stock? Thanks Jon Montgomery 17 Ol'44
participants (9)
-
Bob Eeg -
Charlie -
Dave Scobie -
Edward Epifani -
Henry Rodriguez -
Jim Sadler -
John Schinnerer -
Randy Sommerfeld -
Thomas Buzzi