Although I don't know about the M-17, I was without a centerboard on my M-15 for a while and, although it didn't really feel any different, there was a big difference in the amount of leeway when beating. Giles Morris -----Original Message----- From: Honshells [mailto:chonshell@ia4u.net] Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2003 8:35 PM To: For and about MontgomerySailboats Subject: M_Boats: monty 17 My guess is that the weight of the board wouldn't make a difference, it would be the leeway allowed by lack of lateral resistance on every point of sail except a run: Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. I'm just guessing.
I am continuing to attempt to restore to my old 1978 M-17. Have finished her tiller and rudder and now need to replace the half inch rod that the rudder turns and slides on. The rod has been eaten away to just above the waterline so I don't know how long the original one was. I would appreciate information of the length of the rod and suggested material. I believe the one I have is stainless steel but the rot makes me wonder. Thanks, Bill
It just so happens I have my original rudder rod in the basement. Well, at least it was the original that came with the boat when I got it. It's 32 1/2" long x 1/2" round. It has 2 - 5/32nd" holes drilled 1/4" and 16" from one end. These are for the cotter or clevis pins that hold the rod in place on the gudgeon brackets. Both ends are beveled or rounded slightly to allow easier insertion through the rudder brackets. The newer pins were machined down on one end to fit a smaller bracket on the bottom, and only has one hole in the middle. It's made of stainless steel. I'd try for something like 316 stainless, which is more corrosion resistant. You can order this from McMaster-Carr: http://www.mcmaster.com/ Try putting product # 9298K123 in the search field. This is for a slightly tempered 316, and should be a bit tougher. The rudder rod is subject to being bent if the rudder hits something while underway. The one I have was bent slightly.....and others can confirm this. (Right Clarence?) Any bend at all and it will be hard to get the rudder installed, and it won¹t be easy to raise and lower it. Anyone who has a rod like this should always have a spare in the boat. Howard M17, #278 Audasea On 10/9/03 1:51 PM, "Bill Sylvester" <wmcsyl1@cox.net> wrote:
I am continuing to attempt to restore to my old 1978 M-17. Have finished her tiller and rudder and now need to replace the half inch rod that the rudder turns and slides on. The rod has been eaten away to just above the waterline so I don't know how long the original one was. I would appreciate information of the length of the rod and suggested material. I believe the one I have is stainless steel but the rot makes me wonder.
Thanks,
Bill
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Howard, Thank you very much for the information. I was not even aware that there was a pin on the lower end of the shaft. I will check out McMaster-Carr. ThomasRegister has a Silicon Bronze three foot rod for about $32 including shipping. Do you know anything about the durability of that material? Thanks. Bill On Friday, October 10, 2003, at 05:30 AM, Howard Audsley wrote:
It just so happens I have my original rudder rod in the basement. Well, at least it was the original that came with the boat when I got it.
It's 32 1/2" long x 1/2" round. It has 2 - 5/32nd" holes drilled 1/4" and 16" from one end. These are for the cotter or clevis pins that hold the rod in place on the gudgeon brackets. Both ends are beveled or rounded slightly to allow easier insertion through the rudder brackets. The newer pins were machined down on one end to fit a smaller bracket on the bottom, and only has one hole in the middle.
It's made of stainless steel. I'd try for something like 316 stainless, which is more corrosion resistant. You can order this from McMaster-Carr:
Try putting product # 9298K123 in the search field. This is for a slightly tempered 316, and should be a bit tougher.
The rudder rod is subject to being bent if the rudder hits something while underway. The one I have was bent slightly.....and others can confirm this. (Right Clarence?) Any bend at all and it will be hard to get the rudder installed, and it won’t be easy to raise and lower it. Anyone who has a rod like this should always have a spare in the boat.
Howard M17, #278 Audasea
On 10/9/03 1:51 PM, "Bill Sylvester" <wmcsyl1@cox.net> wrote:
I am continuing to attempt to restore to my old 1978 M-17. Have finished her tiller and rudder and now need to replace the half inch rod that the rudder turns and slides on. The rod has been eaten away to just above the waterline so I don't know how long the original one was. I would appreciate information of the length of the rod and suggested material. I believe the one I have is stainless steel but the rot makes me wonder.
Thanks,
Bill
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It seems to me there was some discussion about bronze rods once, but I don't recall what it was. This sounds like a question for Jerry M or Bob. It could be they used them, but gave it up due to the expense. At $32, the bronze rod is about 3X as expensive as the same length of 1/2" stainless. BTW, McMaster has a variety of bronze rods too, and a pretty good description of each alloy. Howard On 10/10/03 10:15 AM, "Bill Sylvester" <wmcsyl1@cox.net> wrote:
Howard, Thank you very much for the information. I was not even aware that there was a pin on the lower end of the shaft. I will check out McMaster-Carr. ThomasRegister has a Silicon Bronze three foot rod for about $32 including shipping. Do you know anything about the durability of that material?
Thanks.
Bill On Friday, October 10, 2003, at 05:30 AM, Howard Audsley wrote:
It just so happens I have my original rudder rod in the basement. Well, at least it was the original that came with the boat when I got it.
It's 32 1/2" long x 1/2" round. It has 2 - 5/32nd" holes drilled 1/4" and 16" from one end. These are for the cotter or clevis pins that hold the rod in place on the gudgeon brackets. Both ends are beveled or rounded slightly to allow easier insertion through the rudder brackets. The newer pins were machined down on one end to fit a smaller bracket on the bottom, and only has one hole in the middle.
It's made of stainless steel. I'd try for something like 316 stainless, which is more corrosion resistant. You can order this from McMaster-Carr:
Try putting product # 9298K123 in the search field. This is for a slightly tempered 316, and should be a bit tougher.
The rudder rod is subject to being bent if the rudder hits something while underway. The one I have was bent slightly.....and others can confirm this. (Right Clarence?) Any bend at all and it will be hard to get the rudder installed, and it won¹t be easy to raise and lower it. Anyone who has a rod like this should always have a spare in the boat.
Howard M17, #278 Audasea
On 10/9/03 1:51 PM, "Bill Sylvester" <wmcsyl1@cox.net> wrote:
I am continuing to attempt to restore to my old 1978 M-17. Have finished her tiller and rudder and now need to replace the half inch rod that the rudder turns and slides on. The rod has been eaten away to just above the waterline so I don't know how long the original one was. I would appreciate information of the length of the rod and suggested material. I believe the one I have is stainless steel but the rot makes me wonder.
Thanks,
Bill
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...................... what is the best cutting hacksaw blade for 1/2 inch stainless steel rod, my normal hacksaw blades even up to 24 teeth per inch, do a little more than harass the metal. .............................. ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Sylvester To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Friday, October 10, 2003 11:15 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: New old M-17 Howard, Thank you very much for the information. I was not even aware that there was a pin on the lower end of the shaft. I will check out McMaster-Carr. ThomasRegister has a Silicon Bronze three foot rod for about $32 including shipping. Do you know anything about the durability of that material? Thanks. Bill On Friday, October 10, 2003, at 05:30 AM, Howard Audsley wrote: It just so happens I have my original rudder rod in the basement. Well, at least it was the original that came with the boat when I got it. It's 32 1/2" long x 1/2" round. It has 2 - 5/32nd" holes drilled 1/4" and 16" from one end. These are for the cotter or clevis pins that hold the rod in place on the gudgeon brackets. Both ends are beveled or rounded slightly to allow easier insertion through the rudder brackets. The newer pins were machined down on one end to fit a smaller bracket on the bottom, and only has one hole in the middle. It's made of stainless steel. I'd try for something like 316 stainless, which is more corrosion resistant. You can order this from McMaster-Carr: http://www.mcmaster.com/ Try putting product # 9298K123 in the search field. This is for a slightly tempered 316, and should be a bit tougher. The rudder rod is subject to being bent if the rudder hits something while underway. The one I have was bent slightly.....and others can confirm this. (Right Clarence?) Any bend at all and it will be hard to get the rudder installed, and it won’t be easy to raise and lower it. Anyone who has a rod like this should always have a spare in the boat. Howard M17, #278 Audasea On 10/9/03 1:51 PM, "Bill Sylvester" <wmcsyl1@cox.net> wrote: > > I am continuing to attempt to restore to my old 1978 M-17. Have > finished her tiller and rudder and now need to replace the half inch > rod that the rudder turns and slides on. > The rod has been eaten away to just above the waterline so I don't > know how long the original one was. > I would appreciate information of the length of the rod and suggested > material. I believe the one I have is stainless steel but the rot > makes me wonder. > > Thanks, > > Bill > > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Why not just order a new rod from Nor'Sea? Also, it seems like silicon bronze would be the better choice, and easier to cut . . . ----- Original Message ----- From: MC Carpenter To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2003 2:11 PM Subject: New old M-17 ...................... what is the best cutting hacksaw blade for 1/2 inch stainless steel rod, my normal hacksaw blades even up to 24 teeth per inch, do a little more than harass the metal. .............................. ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Sylvester To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Friday, October 10, 2003 11:15 AM Subject: New old M-17 Howard, Thank you very much for the information. I was not even aware that there was a pin on the lower end of the shaft. I will check out McMaster-Carr. ThomasRegister has a Silicon Bronze three foot rod for about $32 including shipping. Do you know anything about the durability of that material? Thanks. Bill On Friday, October 10, 2003, at 05:30 AM, Howard Audsley wrote: It just so happens I have my original rudder rod in the basement. Well, at least it was the original that came with the boat when I got it. It's 32 1/2" long x 1/2" round. It has 2 - 5/32nd" holes drilled 1/4" and 16" from one end. These are for the cotter or clevis pins that hold the rod in place on the gudgeon brackets. Both ends are beveled or rounded slightly to allow easier insertion through the rudder brackets. The newer pins were machined down on one end to fit a smaller bracket on the bottom, and only has one hole in the middle. It's made of stainless steel. I'd try for something like 316 stainless, which is more corrosion resistant. You can order this from McMaster-Carr: http://www.mcmaster.com/ Try putting product # 9298K123 in the search field. This is for a slightly tempered 316, and should be a bit tougher. The rudder rod is subject to being bent if the rudder hits something while underway. The one I have was bent slightly.....and others can confirm this. (Right Clarence?) Any bend at all and it will be hard to get the rudder installed, and it won’t be easy to raise and lower it. Anyone who has a rod like this should always have a spare in the boat. Howard M17, #278 Audasea On 10/9/03 1:51 PM, "Bill Sylvester" <wmcsyl1@cox.net> wrote: I am continuing to attempt to restore to my old 1978 M-17. Have finished her tiller and rudder and now need to replace the half inch rod that the rudder turns and slides on. The rod has been eaten away to just above the waterline so I don't know how long the original one was. I would appreciate information of the length of the rod and suggested material. I believe the one I have is stainless steel but the rot makes me wonder. Thanks, Bill
A dremel fiberglass cutting disc (about 1 1/4 " d) works really great. To cleanly and quickly drill holes in it use cobalt tipped drill bits. MC Carpenter wrote:
......................what is the best cutting hacksaw blade for 1/2 inch stainless steel rod, my normal hacksaw blades even up to 24 teeth per inch, do a little more than harass the metal. ..............................
----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Sylvester To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Friday, October 10, 2003 11:15 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: New old M-17 Howard, Thank you very much for the information. I was not even aware that there was a pin on the lower end of the shaft. I will check out McMaster-Carr. ThomasRegister has a Silicon Bronze three foot rod for about $32 including shipping. Do you know anything about the durability of that material?
Thanks.
Bill On Friday, October 10, 2003, at 05:30 AM, Howard Audsley wrote:
<?fontfamily><?param Verdana>It just so happens I have my original rudder rod in the basement. Well, at least it was the original that came with the boat when I got it.
It's 32 1/2" long x 1/2" round. It has 2 - 5/32nd" holes drilled 1/4" and 16" from one end. These are for the cotter or clevis pins that hold the rod in place on the gudgeon brackets. Both ends are beveled or rounded slightly to allow easier insertion through the rudder brackets. The newer pins were machined down on one end to fit a smaller bracket on the bottom, and only has one hole in the middle.
It's made of stainless steel. I'd try for something like 316 stainless, which is more corrosion resistant. You can order this from McMaster-Carr:
Try putting product # 9298K123 in the search field. This is for a slightly tempered 316, and should be a bit tougher.
The rudder rod is subject to being bent if the rudder hits something while underway. The one I have was bent slightly.....and others can confirm this. (Right Clarence?) Any bend at all and it will be hard to get the rudder installed, and it won?t be easy to raise and lower it. Anyone who has a rod like this should always have a spare in the boat.
Howard M17, #278 Audasea
On 10/9/03 1:51 PM, "Bill Sylvester" <wmcsyl1@cox.net> wrote:
<?color><?param 0000,0000,FFFE>> > I am continuing to attempt to restore to my old 1978 M-17. Have > finished her tiller and rudder and now need to replace the half inch > rod that the rudder turns and slides on. > The rod has been eaten away to just above the waterline so I don't > know how long the original one was. > I would appreciate information of the length of the rod and suggested > material. I believe the one I have is stainless steel but the rot > makes me wonder. > > Thanks, > > Bill > > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > <?/color>_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats <?/fontfamily>
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Hi Howard If the rod is only 32 1/2" long how do you raise the rudder, 32 1/2" is the approximat distance between the brackets. 2 spaces at 15 to 16 inches each. Wayne ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Sylvester To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Friday, October 10, 2003 10:15 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: New old M-17 Howard, Thank you very much for the information. I was not even aware that there was a pin on the lower end of the shaft. I will check out McMaster-Carr. ThomasRegister has a Silicon Bronze three foot rod for about $32 including shipping. Do you know anything about the durability of that material? Thanks. Bill On Friday, October 10, 2003, at 05:30 AM, Howard Audsley wrote: It just so happens I have my original rudder rod in the basement. Well, at least it was the original that came with the boat when I got it. It's 32 1/2" long x 1/2" round. It has 2 - 5/32nd" holes drilled 1/4" and 16" from one end. These are for the cotter or clevis pins that hold the rod in place on the gudgeon brackets. Both ends are beveled or rounded slightly to allow easier insertion through the rudder brackets. The newer pins were machined down on one end to fit a smaller bracket on the bottom, and only has one hole in the middle. It's made of stainless steel. I'd try for something like 316 stainless, which is more corrosion resistant. You can order this from McMaster-Carr: http://www.mcmaster.com/ Try putting product # 9298K123 in the search field. This is for a slightly tempered 316, and should be a bit tougher. The rudder rod is subject to being bent if the rudder hits something while underway. The one I have was bent slightly.....and others can confirm this. (Right Clarence?) Any bend at all and it will be hard to get the rudder installed, and it won’t be easy to raise and lower it. Anyone who has a rod like this should always have a spare in the boat. Howard M17, #278 Audasea On 10/9/03 1:51 PM, "Bill Sylvester" <wmcsyl1@cox.net> wrote: > > I am continuing to attempt to restore to my old 1978 M-17. Have > finished her tiller and rudder and now need to replace the half inch > rod that the rudder turns and slides on. > The rod has been eaten away to just above the waterline so I don't > know how long the original one was. > I would appreciate information of the length of the rod and suggested > material. I believe the one I have is stainless steel but the rot > makes me wonder. > > Thanks, > > Bill > > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Howard and Wayne, I am now a bit confused. When the rudder slides up, does the rod come with it or does the rudder slide on the rod. Mine being rusted off just below the lower bracket has made it so I have never observed a working model. Thanks again, Bill On Sunday, October 12, 2003, at 06:49 PM, wayne yeargain wrote:
Hi Howard If the rod is only 32 1/2" long how do you raise the rudder, 32 1/2" is the approximat distance between the brackets. 2 spaces at 15 to 16 inches each. Wayne
----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Sylvester To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Friday, October 10, 2003 10:15 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: New old M-17
Howard, Thank you very much for the information. I was not even aware that there was a pin on the lower end of the shaft. I will check out McMaster-Carr. ThomasRegister has a Silicon Bronze three foot rod for about $32 including shipping. Do you know anything about the durability of that material?
Thanks.
Bill On Friday, October 10, 2003, at 05:30 AM, Howard Audsley wrote:
It just so happens I have my original rudder rod in the basement. Well, at least it was the original that came with the boat when I got it.
It's 32 1/2" long x 1/2" round. It has 2 - 5/32nd" holes drilled 1/4" and 16" from one end. These are for the cotter or clevis pins that hold the rod in place on the gudgeon brackets. Both ends are beveled or rounded slightly to allow easier insertion through the rudder brackets. The newer pins were machined down on one end to fit a smaller bracket on the bottom, and only has one hole in the middle.
It's made of stainless steel. I'd try for something like 316 stainless, which is more corrosion resistant. You can order this from McMaster-Carr:
Try putting product # 9298K123 in the search field. This is for a slightly tempered 316, and should be a bit tougher.
The rudder rod is subject to being bent if the rudder hits something while underway. The one I have was bent slightly.....and others can confirm this. (Right Clarence?) Any bend at all and it will be hard to get the rudder installed, and it won’t be easy to raise and lower it. Anyone who has a rod like this should always have a spare in the boat.
Howard M17, #278 Audasea
On 10/9/03 1:51 PM, "Bill Sylvester" <wmcsyl1@cox.net> wrote:
I am continuing to attempt to restore to my old 1978 M-17. Have finished her tiller and rudder and now need to replace the half inch rod that the rudder turns and slides on. The rod has been eaten away to just above the waterline so I don't know how long the original one was. I would appreciate information of the length of the rod and suggested material. I believe the one I have is stainless steel but the rot makes me wonder.
Thanks,
Bill
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To see some pictures, go to the MSOG: http://www.msog.org/how-to/oars.cfm These are the pictures of the sculling oar I built, but the rudder and it's pin are shown in the background. You might be able to pick out some of the details from that. Howard On 10/12/03 10:06 PM, "Bill Sylvester" <wmcsyl1@cox.net> wrote:
Howard and Wayne,
I am now a bit confused. When the rudder slides up, does the rod come with it or does the rudder slide on the rod. Mine being rusted off just below the lower bracket has made it so I have never observed a working model. Thanks again, Bill
On Sunday, October 12, 2003, at 06:49 PM, wayne yeargain wrote:
At this length, there is just enough of a stub of rudder rod sticking up above the top bracket for the top gudgeon to slide down on when the rudder is all the way down. When you raise it, the top gudgeon goes up into space and is not supported. The rudder slides up and down on the other two. The pins holding the rudder rod in place are located above the middle bracket and below the bottom bracket, and these hold the rod in place so it doesn¹t slide up and down too. Howard M17, #278 On 10/12/03 8:49 PM, "wayne yeargain" <wayne@ev1.net> wrote:
Hi Howard If the rod is only 32 1/2" long how do you raise the rudder, 32 1/2" is the approximat distance between the brackets. 2 spaces at 15 to 16 inches each. Wayne
Howard, Thanks for the explanation. The description along with the picture have put me on the right track. Bill On Monday, October 13, 2003, at 04:13 AM, Howard Audsley wrote:
At this length, there is just enough of a stub of rudder rod sticking up above the top bracket for the top gudgeon to slide down on when the rudder is all the way down. When you raise it, the top gudgeon goes up into space and is not supported. The rudder slides up and down on the other two. The pins holding the rudder rod in place are located above the middle bracket and below the bottom bracket, and these hold the rod in place so it doesn’t slide up and down too.
Howard M17, #278
On 10/12/03 8:49 PM, "wayne yeargain" <wayne@ev1.net> wrote:
Hi Howard If the rod is only 32 1/2" long how do you raise the rudder, 32 1/2" is the approximat distance between the brackets. 2 spaces at 15 to 16 inches each. Wayne
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Re: M_Boats: New old M-17I see how it works, I set mine up on a longer rod .. when I raise the rudder the rod raises up too. Didn't know exactly how the factory designed it, the rod was missing on my boat when I bought it. Do you ever have a problem with the top gudgeon mis aligning with the top of the rod when you lower the rudder? Wayne ----- Original Message ----- From: Howard Audsley To: Montgomery Boats List Sent: Monday, October 13, 2003 6:13 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: New old M-17 At this length, there is just enough of a stub of rudder rod sticking up above the top bracket for the top gudgeon to slide down on when the rudder is all the way down. When you raise it, the top gudgeon goes up into space and is not supported. The rudder slides up and down on the other two. The pins holding the rudder rod in place are located above the middle bracket and below the bottom bracket, and these hold the rod in place so it doesn't slide up and down too. Howard M17, #278 On 10/12/03 8:49 PM, "wayne yeargain" <wayne@ev1.net> wrote: Hi Howard If the rod is only 32 1/2" long how do you raise the rudder, 32 1/2" is the approximat distance between the brackets. 2 spaces at 15 to 16 inches each. Wayne ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Nope. I just aligns itself and drops right down. I seldom use it in a raised position when underway. With the rudder gudgeons at any place but resting on the brackets, the pin is vulnerable to damage if the rudder hits something. The rudder has a great deal of leverage, and can bend the pin. At last summer¹s CBR, Clarence hit something with his rudder while in the up position, and his rudder pin came away looking like a crankshaft out of a motor. The closer the gudgeons are to the brackets when it hits something, the less likely it is to bend the rod. Howard On 10/13/03 10:09 PM, "wayne yeargain" <wayne@ev1.net> wrote:
I see how it works, I set mine up on a longer rod .. when I raise the rudder the rod raises up too. Didn't know exactly how the factory designed it, the rod was missing on my boat when I bought it. Do you ever have a problem with the top gudgeon mis aligning with the top of the rod when you lower the rudder?
Wayne
----- Original Message ----- From: Howard Audsley <mailto:haudsley@tranquility.net> To: Montgomery Boats List <mailto:montgomery_boats@lists.xmission.com> Sent: Monday, October 13, 2003 6:13 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: New old M-17
At this length, there is just enough of a stub of rudder rod sticking up above the top bracket for the top gudgeon to slide down on when the rudder is all the way down. When you raise it, the top gudgeon goes up into space and is not supported. The rudder slides up and down on the other two. The pins holding the rudder rod in place are located above the middle bracket and below the bottom bracket, and these hold the rod in place so it doesn¹t slide up and down too.
Howard M17, #278
On 10/12/03 8:49 PM, "wayne yeargain" <wayne@ev1.net> wrote:
Hi Howard If the rod is only 32 1/2" long how do you raise the rudder, 32 1/2" is the approximat distance between the brackets. 2 spaces at 15 to 16 inches each. Wayne
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Hi Bill I bought a '76 M17 & since the rudder rod was missing I bought a 3/8" dia. steel rod 48" long at Home Depot, drilled a small hole in each end for a retaining pin and it works fine. I suppose a stainless rod would look nicer and not be subject to rust but the plain steel rod is more available & cheaper. Wayne ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Sylvester" <wmcsyl1@cox.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2003 1:51 PM Subject: M_Boats: New old M-17
I am continuing to attempt to restore to my old 1978 M-17. Have finished her tiller and rudder and now need to replace the half inch rod that the rudder turns and slides on. The rod has been eaten away to just above the waterline so I don't know how long the original one was. I would appreciate information of the length of the rod and suggested material. I believe the one I have is stainless steel but the rot makes me wonder.
Thanks,
Bill
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participants (7)
-
Bill Sylvester -
Honshells -
Howard Audsley -
Kerry Swart -
MC Carpenter -
Morris, Giles -
wayne yeargain