Charlie: picture attached showing the strapeye (transom) and v-cleat (cockpit combing backrest) hardware that WaveFront recommends for the TillerClutch.  from the aft cockpit corner it is 12" to the v-cleat and 12" to the strapeye. there are two options for the v-cleat: plastic or metal.  plastic bonus is if the pressure gets so great it will break before tearing out the of the fiberglass, but will not hold as firm as metal.  contact Katherine and Pete, info@wavefront.com, to purchase the hardware. there are a few negatives to this install: as noted above the hardware can rip out of the fiberglass (installing a backing plate is very very hard as your hands will not fit between the cockpit wall and the transom, and to reach the location of the v-cleat you must cut out the cockpit locker pan); next using the aft cleats the control lines will better hold the tiller (and can't be ripped out); third is drilling more holes in your boat. the TillerClutch on my M17 and S17 use the aft cleats for the three reasons above. note: be sure to loosen at least one side of the control line, and the tillerclutch is unengaged, before moving the rudder up/down.  the tillerclutch will stop the tiller from moving up/down (see above comment about ripping hardware out of fiberglass). :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com -------------------------------------------- On Tue, 4/15/14, Charlie Fortner <charlie@rentrof.net> wrote: I sure do like my newly installed TillerClutch. Beats the old bungee by miles.     However, tying the control line to the stern cleats is less than ideal for several reasons. I'm thinking of installing cam cleats on the transom to hold the line. But before I go drill holes I'd like to know what others have done. Charlie M-15 #411