Any recommendations on ports for a 1974 M-17 I'm restoring? Stainless steel versus the rest
Hello group: I have a 1974 M-17 that I'm restoring. The previous owner removed the original ports in anticipation of replacing them with new, round ports. I'm thinking I may as well get some better ports than the original ones (in looks & function). What ports should I consider? Thanks in advance. Leonardo J. Velazquez PRIVILEGED AND CONFIDENTIAL: This document and the information contained herein are confidential and protected from disclosure pursuant to Federal law. This message is intended only for the use of the Addressee(s) and may contain information that is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that the use, dissemination, or copying of this information is strictly prohibited. If you received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message and its attachments and notify the sender immediately.
Leonardo: The big negative of the portligts you see pictures of on the M17s is their weight. Anything solid metal puts a bunch of weight up high = more healing moment. Be aware that some ports require a minimum thickness for mounting. The default house thickness is 1/8" of fiberglass. Don't mount anything near the chainplates. Give this load bearing area some space! Don't use opening portlights above the 1/4-berth(s) as when you sit the dogs will hit you in the head. Opening forward portlights work fine. After these considerations it comes down the looks and cost (portlights are NOT cheap!). :: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com On Mon, Oct 8, 2018, 9:37 AM J. Velázquez via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Hello group: I have a 1974 M-17 that I'm restoring. The previous owner removed the original ports in anticipation of replacing them with new, round ports. I'm thinking I may as well get some better ports than the original ones (in looks & function). What ports should I consider? Thanks in advance. Leonardo J. Velazquez
Also if the shape of what you install is not the same as the OEM openings, you will have to rebuild/fill in the original openings. Could be tricky to make that look good, on the gelcoat side (outside) in particular. Unless your new ports are slightly bigger, then you just have to enlarge the hole to fit. There are plenty of rectangular (with rounded corners) options. Personally I think they would look odd in the tapered profile of the cabin side, compared to the original angled frames/openings. YMMV of course, you may like the look. There is at least one article on MSOG Photosite I think about putting new (fixed) ports over the original openings, in absence of the original frames. Looking at how much even small fixed ports cost...I am very glad my '74 M-17 had the original aluminum frames intact! The original plastic lights were hazy & crazed but it was pretty cheap to have a local glass shop replace the lights (I did the frame R&R myself). cheers, John On 10/08/2018 10:57 AM, Dave Scobie wrote:
Leonardo:
The big negative of the portligts you see pictures of on the M17s is their weight. Anything solid metal puts a bunch of weight up high = more healing moment.
Be aware that some ports require a minimum thickness for mounting. The default house thickness is 1/8" of fiberglass.
Don't mount anything near the chainplates. Give this load bearing area some space!
Don't use opening portlights above the 1/4-berth(s) as when you sit the dogs will hit you in the head. Opening forward portlights work fine.
After these considerations it comes down the looks and cost (portlights are NOT cheap!).
:: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com
On Mon, Oct 8, 2018, 9:37 AM J. Velázquez via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Hello group: I have a 1974 M-17 that I'm restoring. The previous owner removed the original ports in anticipation of replacing them with new, round ports. I'm thinking I may as well get some better ports than the original ones (in looks & function). What ports should I consider? Thanks in advance. Leonardo J. Velazquez
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
PS - noting Dave's comment about staying away from chainplate area - on my '74 M-17, the cabin side layup starts to thicken near the front end of the OEM portlight opening. So I definitely wouldn't install anything aftermarket that involved cutting further forwards in that area. You'd be cutting away some of the strength for the chainplate area. cheers, John On 10/08/2018 11:25 AM, John Schinnerer wrote:
Also if the shape of what you install is not the same as the OEM openings, you will have to rebuild/fill in the original openings. Could be tricky to make that look good, on the gelcoat side (outside) in particular.
Unless your new ports are slightly bigger, then you just have to enlarge the hole to fit.
There are plenty of rectangular (with rounded corners) options. Personally I think they would look odd in the tapered profile of the cabin side, compared to the original angled frames/openings. YMMV of course, you may like the look.
There is at least one article on MSOG Photosite I think about putting new (fixed) ports over the original openings, in absence of the original frames.
Looking at how much even small fixed ports cost...I am very glad my '74 M-17 had the original aluminum frames intact! The original plastic lights were hazy & crazed but it was pretty cheap to have a local glass shop replace the lights (I did the frame R&R myself).
cheers, John
On 10/08/2018 10:57 AM, Dave Scobie wrote:
Leonardo:
The big negative of the portligts you see pictures of on the M17s is their weight. Anything solid metal puts a bunch of weight up high = more healing moment.
Be aware that some ports require a minimum thickness for mounting. The default house thickness is 1/8" of fiberglass.
Don't mount anything near the chainplates. Give this load bearing area some space!
Don't use opening portlights above the 1/4-berth(s) as when you sit the dogs will hit you in the head. Opening forward portlights work fine.
After these considerations it comes down the looks and cost (portlights are NOT cheap!).
:: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com
On Mon, Oct 8, 2018, 9:37 AM J. Velázquez via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Hello group: I have a 1974 M-17 that I'm restoring. The previous owner removed the original ports in anticipation of replacing them with new, round ports. I'm thinking I may as well get some better ports than the original ones (in looks & function). What ports should I consider? Thanks in advance. Leonardo J. Velazquez
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
I removed the stock aluminum ports and just used 5/16 plexiglas oversized and thru bolted them to the outside of the cabin side. Over drill the holes to allow for expansion and bed with one of those sticky plastic types bedding compounds that do not dissolve plexiglas and you will be good to go in an afternoon. Fair winds, Tom B, Monty 17, 1976 "AS-IS" On Mon, Oct 8, 2018 at 1:30 PM John Schinnerer <john@eco-living.net> wrote:
PS - noting Dave's comment about staying away from chainplate area - on my '74 M-17, the cabin side layup starts to thicken near the front end of the OEM portlight opening.
So I definitely wouldn't install anything aftermarket that involved cutting further forwards in that area. You'd be cutting away some of the strength for the chainplate area.
cheers, John
On 10/08/2018 11:25 AM, John Schinnerer wrote:
Also if the shape of what you install is not the same as the OEM openings, you will have to rebuild/fill in the original openings. Could be tricky to make that look good, on the gelcoat side (outside) in particular.
Unless your new ports are slightly bigger, then you just have to enlarge the hole to fit.
There are plenty of rectangular (with rounded corners) options. Personally I think they would look odd in the tapered profile of the cabin side, compared to the original angled frames/openings. YMMV of course, you may like the look.
There is at least one article on MSOG Photosite I think about putting new (fixed) ports over the original openings, in absence of the original frames.
Looking at how much even small fixed ports cost...I am very glad my '74 M-17 had the original aluminum frames intact! The original plastic lights were hazy & crazed but it was pretty cheap to have a local glass shop replace the lights (I did the frame R&R myself).
cheers, John
On 10/08/2018 10:57 AM, Dave Scobie wrote:
Leonardo:
The big negative of the portligts you see pictures of on the M17s is their weight. Anything solid metal puts a bunch of weight up high = more healing moment.
Be aware that some ports require a minimum thickness for mounting. The default house thickness is 1/8" of fiberglass.
Don't mount anything near the chainplates. Give this load bearing area some space!
Don't use opening portlights above the 1/4-berth(s) as when you sit the dogs will hit you in the head. Opening forward portlights work fine.
After these considerations it comes down the looks and cost (portlights are NOT cheap!).
:: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: M6'8" #650 :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com
On Mon, Oct 8, 2018, 9:37 AM J. Velázquez via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> wrote:
Hello group: I have a 1974 M-17 that I'm restoring. The previous owner removed the original ports in anticipation of replacing them with new, round ports. I'm thinking I may as well get some better ports than the original ones (in looks & function). What ports should I consider? Thanks in advance. Leonardo J. Velazquez
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
I used this method to replace the windows on my M17 without drilling any screw holes: http://thecoastalpassage.com/windows.html Henry Monita Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
I removed the stock aluminum ports and just used 5/16 plexiglas oversized and thru bolted them to the outside of the cabin side. Over drill the holes to allow for expansion and bed with one of those sticky plastic types bedding compounds that do not dissolve plexiglas and you will be good to go in an afternoon. Fair winds, Tom B, Monty 17, 1976 "AS-IS"
Thanks a lot.
On Oct 8, 2018 at 8:43 PM, <Henry Rodriguez (mailto:heinzir@gmail.com)> wrote:
I used this method to replace the windows on my M17 without drilling any screw holes:
http://thecoastalpassage.com/windows.html
Henry Monita
Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
I removed the stock aluminum ports and just used 5/16 plexiglas oversized and thru bolted them to the outside of the cabin side. Over drill the holes to allow for expansion and bed with one of those sticky plastic types bedding compounds that do not dissolve plexiglas and you will be good to go in an afternoon. Fair winds, Tom B, Monty 17, 1976 "AS-IS"
IMO nothing looks better than an elliptical portlight. I would use stainless to match the rest of the boat's fittings. I would not bother with an opening portlight on a boat as small as an M17. Bob Eeg (current builder) has used elliptical portlights on some of his builds and might be able to steer you in the direction of a suitable supplier. -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com> On Behalf Of Leonardo J. Velázquez via montgomery_boats Sent: Monday, October 8, 2018 12:37 PM To: For and About Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: M_Boats: Any recommendations on ports for a 1974 M-17 I'm restoring? Stainless steel versus the rest Hello group: I have a 1974 M-17 that I'm restoring. The previous owner removed the original ports in anticipation of replacing them with new, round ports. I'm thinking I may as well get some better ports than the original ones (in looks & function). What ports should I consider? Thanks in advance. Leonardo J. Velazquez PRIVILEGED AND CONFIDENTIAL: This document and the information contained herein are confidential and protected from disclosure pursuant to Federal law. This message is intended only for the use of the Addressee(s) and may contain information that is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that the use, dissemination, or copying of this information is strictly prohibited. If you received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message and its attachments and notify the sender immediately.
participants (7)
-
Dave Scobie -
Henry Rodriguez -
John Schinnerer -
Leonardo J. Velazquez -
Leonardo J. Velázquez -
swwheatley＠comcast.net -
Thomas Buzzi