Hi Connie, The sandpaper method is a good idea. You're always full of tricks. The shim ring that I'll need will be something like 12"x12", 1" wide and 1/2" thick. I don't think teak or any wood short of maybe plywood would be suitable. Two of the 12" sides would be end grain and bound to check. Actually I was thinking of using a piece of white plastic cutting board that's about 1/2" thick. We have this very large cutting board, like 20"x24" and I'm always threatening to cut it in half because it's so cumbersome. So now I've got a good reason to attack that overgrown hunk of petro-chemical. Thanks for the advice, Rick
Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2006 11:00:04 -0500 From: chbenneck@juno.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: Forward Hatch in an M15 To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Message-ID: <20060318.112805.2568.2.chbenneck@juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Hi Rick,
When I mounted the NICRO vent on the M15 foredeck, I had to install the NICRO vent flange on a teak ring.
The deck camber problem was solved easily - with a bit of elbow grease - by putting the teak ring on a sheet of 80 grit sandpaper that lay on the deck.
Straight line fore and aft movement of the teak ring on the sandpaper produced the matching curvature.
Then it was just a matter of bedding the teak ring, and using the fasteners of the NICRO vent flange to secure everything in place.
Or, if you want to install the 12 x 12 hatch, scribe a teak piece to fit the curvature of the deck.
Connie
I'll only add the caveat that when doing any type of "remodel" job on a boat, consider what it might do to re"sail" value if you ever decide to sell. On Audasea, I have a hole someone once cut for a deck vent, like the one Connie mentions below, that I wish wasn't there. I have used it, but don't now, as invariably, when it was in it would rain and water leaked in. That was at night. During the day, when sailing, the jib or jib sheets would hang up on it when tacking. An open hole/vent like that is yet another pathway for mosquitoes. It's not leaking now, as I've caulked the deck plate in with silicon. These are small boats. And maybe my tolerance for heat is greater than other's, but I've never been that uncomfortable with the level of "venting" that can be achieved with an open hatch and opening the forward hatch on the cabin top. Even in the near 100 degree heat of summer. You sweat during the day and towards evening, take a dip and cool off. I've never slept without at least a sheet on. And more likely than not, the top hatch is closed or mostly so during the night. During the day, I'm in the cockpit. I would not want a big hole up on the foredeck that I had to walk around, worry about dropping an anchor on or snagging sheets on. I would want the smooth, level deck that is there now. Howard M17, #278 Audasea On 3/19/06 8:08 AM, "Rick Langer" <farreach@optonline.net> wrote:
Hi Connie,
The sandpaper method is a good idea. You're always full of tricks. The shim ring that I'll need will be something like 12"x12", 1" wide and 1/2" thick. I don't think teak or any wood short of maybe plywood would be suitable. Two of the 12" sides would be end grain and bound to check. Actually I was thinking of using a piece of white plastic cutting board that's about 1/2" thick. We have this very large cutting board, like 20"x24" and I'm always threatening to cut it in half because it's so cumbersome. So now I've got a good reason to attack that overgrown hunk of petro-chemical.
Thanks for the advice,
Rick
Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2006 11:00:04 -0500 From: chbenneck@juno.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: Forward Hatch in an M15 To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Message-ID: <20060318.112805.2568.2.chbenneck@juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Hi Rick,
When I mounted the NICRO vent on the M15 foredeck, I had to install the NICRO vent flange on a teak ring.
The deck camber problem was solved easily - with a bit of elbow grease - by putting the teak ring on a sheet of 80 grit sandpaper that lay on the deck.
Straight line fore and aft movement of the teak ring on the sandpaper produced the matching curvature.
Then it was just a matter of bedding the teak ring, and using the fasteners of the NICRO vent flange to secure everything in place.
Or, if you want to install the 12 x 12 hatch, scribe a teak piece to fit the curvature of the deck.
Connie
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
participants (2)
-
Howard Audsley -
Rick Langer