Hi all, I saw a nifty method for securing the cockpit lockers on an '89 M-15 that was for sale at a local boatyard a while back. It consisted of small eyes bolted to the underside of the locker lids with small lines led forward to clam cleats affixed to the interior side of the cabin on either side where they can easily be reached from the cockpit. A small hole for the line had to be drilled in the shallow starboard locker. I've been told this is a standard feature on Macgregor boats, but it still might be a good idea. No barked shins from hasps sticking out and no extra locks needed since locking the hatch boards secures everything. What I didn't learn was how the cleats inside the boat were attached. I don't want to drill holes in the boat so I'm thinking of using 5200 or epoxy to attach some small teak blocks to the cabin sides, into which I can screw the clam cleats. Likewise, a strip of teak glued to the interior below the cockpit opening would allow attachment of storage pockets without having to drill through the glass and so on (my last boat had a cabin liner, so screwing stuff in was no problem). Has anyone else used this method of securing the lockers? I'm also wondering how others have dealt with attaching stuff inside their cabins? Is 5200 a good choice or should I be going with epoxy? Thanks in advance, George Burmeyer, 89 M-15 #385
George, I admire the method but didn't use it for the following reasons: 1) When caught in a thunderstorm I couldn't even get my hatchboards in due to the rapidly escalating conditions as I waited too long. To cleat these lines you have to be partially in the cabin. 2) If you don't keep them locked all of the time you will find your self in 1 above some day. If you do keep them locked all of the time they will frustrate you to the point where you stop locking them except when leaving the boat. 3) I think that the loose line created when opened would always foul on something when closed. This would prevent it's easy use and I don't have the patience to untangle it frequently. As regards to teak blocks in the cabin I have used teak plywood for this quite frequently. I normally use thickened epoxy to get a good surface spread. When I don't thicken it I usually get a failure before long. 5200 should work as well but I don't have it handy and boy is it a mess if you use too much - even worse than epoxy. Thanks Doug M15 #310 "Seas the Day" --- G Burmeyer <burmeyer@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
Hi all,
I saw a nifty method for securing the cockpit lockers on an '89 M-15 that was for sale at a local boatyard a while back. It consisted of small eyes bolted to the underside of the locker lids with small lines led forward to clam cleats affixed to the interior side of the cabin on either side where they can easily be reached from the cockpit. A small hole for the line had to be drilled in the shallow starboard locker. I've been told this is a standard feature on Macgregor boats, but it still might be a good idea. No barked shins from hasps sticking out and no extra locks needed since locking the hatch boards secures everything.
What I didn't learn was how the cleats inside the boat were attached. I don't want to drill holes in the boat so I'm thinking of using 5200 or epoxy to attach some small teak blocks to the cabin sides, into which I can screw the clam cleats. Likewise, a strip of teak glued to the interior below the cockpit opening would allow attachment of storage pockets without having to drill through the glass and so on (my last boat had a cabin liner, so screwing stuff in was no problem).
Has anyone else used this method of securing the lockers? I'm also wondering how others have dealt with attaching stuff inside their cabins? Is 5200 a good choice or should I be going with epoxy?
Thanks in advance,
George Burmeyer, 89 M-15 #385
_______________________________________________
http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Search - Find what youre looking for faster http://search.yahoo.com
George, We had a setup like this on our 1976 Laguna 24. It made for a clean looking cockpit but for the reasons Doug mentioned I did not like it. We didn't have any trouble with the lines fouling but it was a hassle to try and open a locker only to find you had not released it from the inside. I think this could be especially bothersome if you sail by yourself. On our M-15 when we purchased Her from her original owner, hasps had been installed on both lockers. We never used locks on these as our boat is either with us or in our garage. At first we used caribeaners for securing the hasps but switched last year to a simplier device that can be hooked an un-hooked with one hand. I have no idea what they are called but we bought them for under $2 at our local Ace Hardware. They remind me of something I used to see my Grandmother latch screen doors with. With one hand you can undo the latch and with the other hand the hasp and raise the locker door. The one nice thing about the system you described is, as you mentioned, locking up the boat. We did moore our 24 it was very handy to only need to lock the companion way. Randy Graves M-15 #407 From: G Burmeyer Sent: Mon 3/8/2004 11:10 AM To: Montgomery Boats Subject: M_Boats: Attaching interior fittings Hi all, I saw a nifty method for securing the cockpit lockers on an '89 M-15 that was for sale at a local boatyard a while back. It consisted of small eyes bolted to the underside of the locker lids with small lines led forward to clam cleats affixed to the interior side of the cabin on either side where they can easily be reached from the cockpit. A small hole for the line had to be drilled in the shallow starboard locker. I've been told this is a standard feature on Macgregor boats, but it still might be a good idea. No barked shins from hasps sticking out and no extra locks needed since locking the hatch boards secures everything. What I didn't learn was how the cleats inside the boat were attached. I don't want to drill holes in the boat so I'm thinking of using 5200 or epoxy to attach some small teak blocks to the cabin sides, into which I can screw the clam cleats. Likewise, a strip of teak glued to the interior below the cockpit opening would allow attachment of storage pockets without having to drill through the glass and so on (my last boat had a cabin liner, so screwing stuff in was no problem). Has anyone else used this method of securing the lockers? I'm also wondering how others have dealt with attaching stuff inside their cabins? Is 5200 a good choice or should I be going with epoxy? Thanks in advance, George Burmeyer, 89 M-15 #385 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
George, My M17's VHF radio mount is screwed to a piece of mahogany that I stuck to the ceiling with 5200 . . . It's a fixed-mount radio . . . I didn't want to drill holes through the deck. The 5200 held great all last season: I didn't notice any signs of separation even through the wood/radio combo had some combined "heft" and I wondered if the weight coupled with the flexing of the ceiling under trailering/sailing might cause the 5200 to give way . . . When I secured the wood, I physically held it in place for several minutes, then duct-taped it in place for over 24 hours . . . But I'm really mystified about this MacGregor locker securing method: I can't visualize it . . . I really like the idea of securing the hatches without hasps . . . Fair winds, Craig, M17 #389 ----- Original Message ----- From: "G Burmeyer" <burmeyer@sbcglobal.net> To: "Montgomery Boats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 2:10 PM Subject: Attaching interior fittings Hi all, I saw a nifty method for securing the cockpit lockers on an '89 M-15 that was for sale at a local boatyard a while back. It consisted of small eyes bolted to the underside of the locker lids with small lines led forward to clam cleats affixed to the interior side of the cabin on either side where they can easily be reached from the cockpit. A small hole for the line had to be drilled in the shallow starboard locker. I've been told this is a standard feature on Macgregor boats, but it still might be a good idea. No barked shins from hasps sticking out and no extra locks needed since locking the hatch boards secures everything. What I didn't learn was how the cleats inside the boat were attached. I don't want to drill holes in the boat so I'm thinking of using 5200 or epoxy to attach some small teak blocks to the cabin sides, into which I can screw the clam cleats. Likewise, a strip of teak glued to the interior below the cockpit opening would allow attachment of storage pockets without having to drill through the glass and so on (my last boat had a cabin liner, so screwing stuff in was no problem). Has anyone else used this method of securing the lockers? I'm also wondering how others have dealt with attaching stuff inside their cabins? Is 5200 a good choice or should I be going with epoxy? Thanks in advance, George Burmeyer, 89 M-15 #385
5200 is a permanent, flexible adhesive. You will have to GRIND it off if you ever want to remove that mount... -Rusty --- Honshells <chonshell@ia4u.net> wrote:
George, My M17's VHF radio mount is screwed to a piece of mahogany that I stuck to the ceiling with 5200 . . . It's a fixed-mount radio . . . I didn't want to drill holes through the deck. The 5200 held great all last season: I didn't notice any signs of separation even through the wood/radio combo had some combined "heft" and I wondered if the weight coupled with the flexing of the ceiling under trailering/sailing might cause the 5200 to give way . . . When I secured the wood, I physically held it in place for several minutes, then duct-taped it in place for over 24 hours . . . But I'm really mystified about this MacGregor locker securing method: I can't visualize it . . . I really like the idea of securing the hatches without hasps . . . Fair winds, Craig, M17 #389
----- Original Message ----- From: "G Burmeyer" <burmeyer@sbcglobal.net> To: "Montgomery Boats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 2:10 PM Subject: Attaching interior fittings
Hi all,
I saw a nifty method for securing the cockpit lockers on an '89 M-15 that was for sale at a local boatyard a while back. It consisted of small eyes bolted to the underside of the locker lids with small lines led forward to clam cleats affixed to the interior side of the cabin on either side where they can easily be reached from the cockpit. A small hole for the line had to be drilled in the shallow starboard locker. I've been told this is a standard feature on Macgregor boats, but it still might be a good idea. No barked shins from hasps sticking out and no extra locks needed since locking the hatch boards secures everything.
What I didn't learn was how the cleats inside the boat were attached. I don't want to drill holes in the boat so I'm thinking of using 5200 or epoxy to attach some small teak blocks to the cabin sides, into which I can screw the clam cleats. Likewise, a strip of teak glued to the interior below the cockpit opening would allow attachment of storage pockets without having to drill through the glass and so on (my last boat had a cabin liner, so screwing stuff in was no problem).
Has anyone else used this method of securing the lockers? I'm also wondering how others have dealt with attaching stuff inside their cabins? Is 5200 a good choice or should I be going with epoxy?
Thanks in advance,
George Burmeyer, 89 M-15 #385
_______________________________________________
http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats ===== www.rustyknorr.com
That's what I'm hoping, Rusty! --Craig ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rusty Knorr" <mazemusic@yahoo.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 11:00 PM Subject: Attaching interior fittings 5200 is a permanent, flexible adhesive. You will have to GRIND it off if you ever want to remove that mount... -Rusty --- Honshells <chonshell@ia4u.net> wrote: George, My M17's VHF radio mount is screwed to a piece of mahogany that I stuck to the ceiling with 5200 . . . It's a fixed-mount radio . . . I didn't want to drill holes through the deck. The 5200 held great all last season: I didn't notice any signs of separation even through the wood/radio combo had some combined "heft" and I wondered if the weight coupled with the flexing of the ceiling under trailering/sailing might cause the 5200 to give way . . . When I secured the wood, I physically held it in place for several minutes, then duct-taped it in place for over 24 hours . . . But I'm really mystified about this MacGregor locker securing method: I can't visualize it . . . I really like the idea of securing the hatches without hasps . . . Fair winds, Craig, M17 #389 ----- Original Message ----- From: "G Burmeyer" <burmeyer@sbcglobal.net> To: "Montgomery Boats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 2:10 PM Subject: Attaching interior fittings Hi all, I saw a nifty method for securing the cockpit lockers on an '89 M-15 that was for sale at a local boatyard a while back. It consisted of small eyes bolted to the underside of the locker lids with small lines led forward to clam cleats affixed to the interior side of the cabin on either side where they can easily be reached from the cockpit. A small hole for the line had to be drilled in the shallow starboard locker. I've been told this is a standard feature on Macgregor boats, but it still might be a good idea. No barked shins from hasps sticking out and no extra locks needed since locking the hatch boards secures everything. What I didn't learn was how the cleats inside the boat were attached. I don't want to drill holes in the boat so I'm thinking of using 5200 or epoxy to attach some small teak blocks to the cabin sides, into which I can screw the clam cleats. Likewise, a strip of teak glued to the interior below the cockpit opening would allow attachment of storage pockets without having to drill through the glass and so on (my last boat had a cabin liner, so screwing stuff in was no problem). Has anyone else used this method of securing the lockers? I'm also wondering how others have dealt with attaching stuff inside their cabins? Is 5200 a good choice or should I be going with epoxy? Thanks in advance, George Burmeyer, 89 M-15 #385
*Heavy sigh* OK everyone...I am putting the word out there! I am going to be selling my 1981 Montgomery 15 (Hull #168)soon and I wanted the list to be the first to know. It has some trailer issues I am trying to resolve, price is negotiable as a result. Email me off list for details if interested. Sorry to be selling her but I bought a Flicka and can't keep 2 boats. Take her to a good home and sail her often! Fair winds, Rusty Knorr www.rustyknorr.com
Many many thanks to all the great replies to my questions. In the back of my thick head I had imagined there might be a problem with having to reach into the cabin to free up the cockpit lockers. You folks have shown me the light. Seems to me the whole point of securing the seat lockers is so that, in a blow or knockdown, the stuff won't come tumbling out (and the water won't get in), but if I'm going out in those conditions I'm certainly going to want to have my hatch boards in place and the hatch securely closed. So what do I do if I need something important, like an anchor, out of those lockers? Uh, oh! I think I am going to start looking for some nice low profile stainless steel hasps, Murphy's law being what it is. Craig, thanks for the info on your 5200 installation. If it'll hold for your VHF, it'll certainly do fine for what I'm going to want to do. Best, George, M15 #385 On 3/8/04 6:32 PM, "Honshells" <chonshell@ia4u.net> wrote:
George, My M17's VHF radio mount is screwed to a piece of mahogany that I stuck to the ceiling with 5200 . . . It's a fixed-mount radio . . . I didn't want to drill holes through the deck. The 5200 held great all last season: I didn't notice any signs of separation even through the wood/radio combo had some combined "heft" and I wondered if the weight coupled with the flexing of the ceiling under trailering/sailing might cause the 5200 to give way . . . When I secured the wood, I physically held it in place for several minutes, then duct-taped it in place for over 24 hours . . . But I'm really mystified about this MacGregor locker securing method: I can't visualize it . . . I really like the idea of securing the hatches without hasps . . . Fair winds, Craig, M17 #389
----- Original Message ----- From: "G Burmeyer" <burmeyer@sbcglobal.net> To: "Montgomery Boats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 2:10 PM Subject: Attaching interior fittings
Hi all,
I saw a nifty method for securing the cockpit lockers on an '89 M-15 that was for sale at a local boatyard a while back. It consisted of small eyes bolted to the underside of the locker lids with small lines led forward to clam cleats affixed to the interior side of the cabin on either side where they can easily be reached from the cockpit. A small hole for the line had to be drilled in the shallow starboard locker. I've been told this is a standard feature on Macgregor boats, but it still might be a good idea. No barked shins from hasps sticking out and no extra locks needed since locking the hatch boards secures everything.
What I didn't learn was how the cleats inside the boat were attached. I don't want to drill holes in the boat so I'm thinking of using 5200 or epoxy to attach some small teak blocks to the cabin sides, into which I can screw the clam cleats. Likewise, a strip of teak glued to the interior below the cockpit opening would allow attachment of storage pockets without having to drill through the glass and so on (my last boat had a cabin liner, so screwing stuff in was no problem).
Has anyone else used this method of securing the lockers? I'm also wondering how others have dealt with attaching stuff inside their cabins? Is 5200 a good choice or should I be going with epoxy?
Thanks in advance,
George Burmeyer, 89 M-15 #385
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
George, I installed locking cam latches on the cockpit lockers on my M-17. They are available through West Marine, and are listed on page 581 in their 2004 master catalog.They come in brass or chrome, and in two sizes. I secure them when sailing with clips like the one shown on page 763 of the same catalog for the item 'Receiver Pins with Clip.' These are available in assorted sizes at Ace Hardware. Clarence Andrews M-17 Carpe Ventum ----- Original Message ----- From: "G Burmeyer" <burmeyer@sbcglobal.net> To: "Montgomery Boats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 11:25 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Attaching interior fittings
Many many thanks to all the great replies to my questions. In the back of my thick head I had imagined there might be a problem with having to reach into the cabin to free up the cockpit lockers. You folks have shown me the light. Seems to me the whole point of securing the seat lockers is so that, in a blow or knockdown, the stuff won't come tumbling out (and the water won't get in), but if I'm going out in those conditions I'm certainly going to want to have my hatch boards in place and the hatch securely closed. So what do I do if I need something important, like an anchor, out of those lockers? Uh, oh! I think I am going to start looking for some nice low profile stainless steel hasps, Murphy's law being what it is.
Craig, thanks for the info on your 5200 installation. If it'll hold for your VHF, it'll certainly do fine for what I'm going to want to do.
Best, George, M15 #385
On 3/8/04 6:32 PM, "Honshells" <chonshell@ia4u.net> wrote:
George, My M17's VHF radio mount is screwed to a piece of mahogany that
I
stuck to the ceiling with 5200 . . . It's a fixed-mount radio . . . I didn't want to drill holes through the deck. The 5200 held great all last season: I didn't notice any signs of separation even through the wood/radio combo had some combined "heft" and I wondered if the weight coupled with the flexing of the ceiling under trailering/sailing might cause the 5200 to give way . . . When I secured the wood, I physically held it in place for several minutes, then duct-taped it in place for over 24 hours . . . But I'm really mystified about this MacGregor locker securing method: I can't visualize it . . . I really like the idea of securing the hatches without hasps . . . Fair winds, Craig, M17 #389
----- Original Message ----- From: "G Burmeyer" <burmeyer@sbcglobal.net> To: "Montgomery Boats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 2:10 PM Subject: Attaching interior fittings
Hi all,
I saw a nifty method for securing the cockpit lockers on an '89 M-15 that was for sale at a local boatyard a while back. It consisted of small eyes bolted to the underside of the locker lids with small lines led forward to clam cleats affixed to the interior side of the cabin on either side where they can easily be reached from the cockpit. A small hole for the line had to be drilled in the shallow starboard locker. I've been told this is a standard feature on Macgregor boats, but it still might be a good idea. No barked shins from hasps sticking out and no extra locks needed since locking the hatch boards secures everything.
What I didn't learn was how the cleats inside the boat were attached. I don't want to drill holes in the boat so I'm thinking of using 5200 or epoxy to attach some small teak blocks to the cabin sides, into which I can screw the clam cleats. Likewise, a strip of teak glued to the interior below the cockpit opening would allow attachment of storage pockets without having to drill through the glass and so on (my last boat had a cabin liner, so screwing stuff in was no problem).
Has anyone else used this method of securing the lockers? I'm also wondering how others have dealt with attaching stuff inside their cabins? Is 5200 a good choice or should I be going with epoxy?
Thanks in advance,
George Burmeyer, 89 M-15 #385
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
George- these hatch cover locks were standard equipment on the 15's and 17's that I made in the last few years of production. I stole the idea from a customer in AZ. We screwed the cleats to wood inserts, sandwiched between layers of glass, in the molding process. Maybe you could fit blocks of wood, then epoxy them in, then screw the Clamcleats to them. Jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "G Burmeyer" <burmeyer@sbcglobal.net> To: "Montgomery Boats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 11:10 AM Subject: M_Boats: Attaching interior fittings
Hi all,
I saw a nifty method for securing the cockpit lockers on an '89 M-15 that was for sale at a local boatyard a while back. It consisted of small eyes bolted to the underside of the locker lids with small lines led forward to clam cleats affixed to the interior side of the cabin on either side where they can easily be reached from the cockpit. A small hole for the line had to be drilled in the shallow starboard locker. I've been told this is a standard feature on Macgregor boats, but it still might be a good idea. No barked shins from hasps sticking out and no extra locks needed since locking the hatch boards secures everything.
What I didn't learn was how the cleats inside the boat were attached. I don't want to drill holes in the boat so I'm thinking of using 5200 or epoxy to attach some small teak blocks to the cabin sides, into which I can screw the clam cleats. Likewise, a strip of teak glued to the interior below the cockpit opening would allow attachment of storage pockets without having to drill through the glass and so on (my last boat had a cabin liner, so screwing stuff in was no problem).
Has anyone else used this method of securing the lockers? I'm also wondering how others have dealt with attaching stuff inside their cabins? Is 5200 a good choice or should I be going with epoxy?
Thanks in advance,
George Burmeyer, 89 M-15 #385
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
participants (7)
-
Doug Kelch -
G Burmeyer -
Honshells -
Jerry Montgomery -
n9ca -
Randy Graves -
Rusty Knorr