I used this company for my Kingboard needs. They will cut any size in a number of colors and their prices are very reasonable. http://www.boatoutfitters.com/king-starboard.html Good luck with your projects. Presently I am also remaking the main hatch teak slides in Kingboard since I seem to be snapping off the nubs of teak on the inboard edges of them. This plastic is easy to shape and cut if you feed it slowly through a tablesaw blade. Work your projects so you don't have to glue anything. Advice on doing that, though, is available at this website. fair winds, Tom B <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
On 12/30/2015 8:28 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote: Hi Thomas, When I bought our M-15 the bottom hatch board was delaminating. I bought some teak plywood (teak faces but something else as the core material), and made the new hatch boards. They lasted and looked very good. Also used some of my left-over material to make my special lower hatch board that held my 7 X 50 binocular; marine radio, etc. If the plastic is available in colors, and it can "look" like teak, well, why not....? No deterioration; no delamination; structurally stable; .... Ciao, Connie I used this company for my Kingboard needs. They will cut any size in a number of colors and their prices are very reasonable. http://www.boatoutfitters.com/king-starboard.html Good luck with your projects. Presently I am also remaking the main hatch teak slides in Kingboard since I seem to be snapping off the nubs of teak on the inboard edges of them. This plastic is easy to shape and cut if you feed it slowly through a tablesaw blade. Work your projects so you don't have to glue anything. Advice on doing that, though, is available at this website. fair winds, Tom B <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
On my Sage, I layed up some carbon fiber cloth and then framed it out with solid teak. Looks good. -----Original Message----- From: Conbert Benneck Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2015 8:12 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Companionway boards On 12/30/2015 8:28 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote: Hi Thomas, When I bought our M-15 the bottom hatch board was delaminating. I bought some teak plywood (teak faces but something else as the core material), and made the new hatch boards. They lasted and looked very good. Also used some of my left-over material to make my special lower hatch board that held my 7 X 50 binocular; marine radio, etc. If the plastic is available in colors, and it can "look" like teak, well, why not....? No deterioration; no delamination; structurally stable; .... Ciao, Connie I used this company for my Kingboard needs. They will cut any size in a number of colors and their prices are very reasonable. http://www.boatoutfitters.com/king-starboard.html Good luck with your projects. Presently I am also remaking the main hatch teak slides in Kingboard since I seem to be snapping off the nubs of teak on the inboard edges of them. This plastic is easy to shape and cut if you feed it slowly through a tablesaw blade. Work your projects so you don't have to glue anything. Advice on doing that, though, is available at this website. fair winds, Tom B <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
Jerry, I bet that looks great. Very hi-tech. When are you going to come up with a retro kit so I can get rid of the compression post inside of my M-17;-} <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 11:05 AM, <jerry@jerrymontgomery.org> wrote:
On my Sage, I layed up some carbon fiber cloth and then framed it out with solid teak. Looks good.
-----Original Message----- From: Conbert Benneck Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2015 8:12 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Companionway boards
On 12/30/2015 8:28 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Hi Thomas,
When I bought our M-15 the bottom hatch board was delaminating.
I bought some teak plywood (teak faces but something else as the core material), and made the new hatch boards. They lasted and looked very good.
Also used some of my left-over material to make my special lower hatch board that held my 7 X 50 binocular; marine radio, etc.
If the plastic is available in colors, and it can "look" like teak, well, why not....? No deterioration; no delamination; structurally stable; ....
Ciao,
Connie
I used this company for my Kingboard needs. They will cut any size in a number of colors and their prices are very reasonable. http://www.boatoutfitters.com/king-starboard.html Good luck with your projects. Presently I am also remaking the main hatch teak slides in Kingboard since I seem to be snapping off the nubs of teak on the inboard edges of them. This plastic is easy to shape and cut if you feed it slowly through a tablesaw blade. Work your projects so you don't have to glue anything. Advice on doing that, though, is available at this website. fair winds, Tom B < https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
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I think the only reasonable way to do that is like we do on the Sage- with a double layer of balsa with a ton of carbon on both sides. To do that on an existing boat you'd need to take off all the hardware and turn the boat upside down. A lot of work to just get rid of the post. Aside from that, the masthead rig on the M-17 has more compression than a fractional. -----Original Message----- From: Thomas Buzzi Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2015 9:24 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Companionway boards Jerry, I bet that looks great. Very hi-tech. When are you going to come up with a retro kit so I can get rid of the compression post inside of my M-17;-} <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 11:05 AM, <jerry@jerrymontgomery.org> wrote:
On my Sage, I layed up some carbon fiber cloth and then framed it out with solid teak. Looks good.
-----Original Message----- From: Conbert Benneck Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2015 8:12 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Companionway boards
On 12/30/2015 8:28 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Hi Thomas,
When I bought our M-15 the bottom hatch board was delaminating.
I bought some teak plywood (teak faces but something else as the core material), and made the new hatch boards. They lasted and looked very good.
Also used some of my left-over material to make my special lower hatch board that held my 7 X 50 binocular; marine radio, etc.
If the plastic is available in colors, and it can "look" like teak, well, why not....? No deterioration; no delamination; structurally stable; ....
Ciao,
Connie
I used this company for my Kingboard needs. They will cut any size in a number of colors and their prices are very reasonable. http://www.boatoutfitters.com/king-starboard.html Good luck with your projects. Presently I am also remaking the main hatch teak slides in Kingboard since I seem to be snapping off the nubs of teak on the inboard edges of them. This plastic is easy to shape and cut if you feed it slowly through a tablesaw blade. Work your projects so you don't have to glue anything. Advice on doing that, though, is available at this website. fair winds, Tom B < https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
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I thought that is what you would say. Thanks for your thoughts. Tom B <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 12:04 PM, <jerry@jerrymontgomery.org> wrote:
I think the only reasonable way to do that is like we do on the Sage- with a double layer of balsa with a ton of carbon on both sides. To do that on an existing boat you'd need to take off all the hardware and turn the boat upside down. A lot of work to just get rid of the post. Aside from that, the masthead rig on the M-17 has more compression than a fractional.
-----Original Message----- From: Thomas Buzzi Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2015 9:24 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Companionway boards
Jerry, I bet that looks great. Very hi-tech. When are you going to come up with a retro kit so I can get rid of the compression post inside of my M-17;-} < https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
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On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 11:05 AM, <jerry@jerrymontgomery.org> wrote:
On my Sage, I layed up some carbon fiber cloth and then framed it out with
solid teak. Looks good.
-----Original Message----- From: Conbert Benneck Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2015 8:12 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Companionway boards
On 12/30/2015 8:28 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Hi Thomas,
When I bought our M-15 the bottom hatch board was delaminating.
I bought some teak plywood (teak faces but something else as the core material), and made the new hatch boards. They lasted and looked very good.
Also used some of my left-over material to make my special lower hatch board that held my 7 X 50 binocular; marine radio, etc.
If the plastic is available in colors, and it can "look" like teak, well, why not....? No deterioration; no delamination; structurally stable; ....
Ciao,
Connie
I used this company for my Kingboard needs. They will cut any size in a number of colors and their prices are very reasonable. http://www.boatoutfitters.com/king-starboard.html Good luck with your projects. Presently I am also remaking the main hatch teak slides in Kingboard since I seem to be snapping off the nubs of teak on the inboard edges of them. This plastic is easy to shape and cut if you feed it slowly through a tablesaw blade. Work your projects so you don't have to glue anything. Advice on doing that, though, is available at this website. fair winds, Tom B <
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
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Hi Connie, Last time I checked having to buy a whole sheet of teak faced plywood was about as expensive as buying a few board feet of solid teak. My checkbook is whispering "mahogany" in my ear. Looks like you are having a HOT winter up there in Connecticut. You can thank El Nino for that. fairwinds, Tom B <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 10:12 AM, Conbert Benneck <chbenneck@gmail.com> wrote:
On 12/30/2015 8:28 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Hi Thomas,
When I bought our M-15 the bottom hatch board was delaminating.
I bought some teak plywood (teak faces but something else as the core material), and made the new hatch boards. They lasted and looked very good.
Also used some of my left-over material to make my special lower hatch board that held my 7 X 50 binocular; marine radio, etc.
If the plastic is available in colors, and it can "look" like teak, well, why not....? No deterioration; no delamination; structurally stable; ....
Ciao,
Connie
I used this company for my Kingboard needs. They will cut any size in a number of colors and their prices are very reasonable. http://www.boatoutfitters.com/king-starboard.html Good luck with your projects. Presently I am also remaking the main hatch teak slides in Kingboard since I seem to be snapping off the nubs of teak on the inboard edges of them. This plastic is easy to shape and cut if you feed it slowly through a tablesaw blade. Work your projects so you don't have to glue anything. Advice on doing that, though, is available at this website. fair winds, Tom B < https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com < https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
On 12/30/2015 11:32 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote: Tom, I didn't buy a whole sheet. I went to a specialty wood shop in Boston, and they cut me about 1/3 of a sheet and that is all I had to pay for. Since I am now living in Dallas, our tornado that just went past us is of greater importance than is the weather in Connecticut. Or, if you want to get ingenious; use Baltic birch plywood and add teak veneer to both faces; Or, just use the birch plywood and give it a teak stain - a still cheaper solution that should stand up to the weather and look pleasing as well. The name of the game is "scheme" Connie
Hi Connie, Last time I checked having to buy a whole sheet of teak faced plywood was about as expensive as buying a few board feet of solid teak. My checkbook is whispering "mahogany" in my ear. Looks like you are having a HOT winter up there in Connecticut. You can thank El Nino for that. fairwinds, Tom B <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 10:12 AM, Conbert Benneck <chbenneck@gmail.com> wrote:
On 12/30/2015 8:28 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Hi Thomas,
When I bought our M-15 the bottom hatch board was delaminating.
I bought some teak plywood (teak faces but something else as the core material), and made the new hatch boards. They lasted and looked very good.
Also used some of my left-over material to make my special lower hatch board that held my 7 X 50 binocular; marine radio, etc.
If the plastic is available in colors, and it can "look" like teak, well, why not....? No deterioration; no delamination; structurally stable; ....
Ciao,
Connie
I used this company for my Kingboard needs. They will cut any size in a number of colors and their prices are very reasonable. http://www.boatoutfitters.com/king-starboard.html Good luck with your projects. Presently I am also remaking the main hatch teak slides in Kingboard since I seem to be snapping off the nubs of teak on the inboard edges of them. This plastic is easy to shape and cut if you feed it slowly through a tablesaw blade. Work your projects so you don't have to glue anything. Advice on doing that, though, is available at this website. fair winds, Tom B < https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com < https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
Yeah, scheme. I thought that pressure treated yellowpine would be a good choice. No rot, etc. I did not reckon with the sun's ability to warp a piece of well finished wood. Even after I ripped the pine into two inch strips, alternated the grain and then epoxied it all together again. Lesson learned. I will look into my favorite hardwoods supplier in Houston and see if they have an answer that suits. Better now in Dallas? than Conn? I see you "up there' are catching a lot of bad weather. Look into the Louisville Dam northwest of Dallas, on google to get a real eyeopener. Happy New Year. Tom B <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 11:54 AM, Conbert Benneck <chbenneck@gmail.com> wrote:
On 12/30/2015 11:32 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote: Tom,
I didn't buy a whole sheet. I went to a specialty wood shop in Boston, and they cut me about 1/3 of a sheet and that is all I had to pay for.
Since I am now living in Dallas, our tornado that just went past us is of greater importance than is the weather in Connecticut.
Or, if you want to get ingenious; use Baltic birch plywood and add teak veneer to both faces; Or, just use the birch plywood and give it a teak stain - a still cheaper solution that should stand up to the weather and look pleasing as well.
The name of the game is "scheme"
Connie
Hi Connie, Last time I checked having to buy a whole sheet of teak faced plywood was about as expensive as buying a few board feet of solid teak. My checkbook is whispering "mahogany" in my ear. Looks like you are having a HOT winter up there in Connecticut. You can thank El Nino for that. fairwinds, Tom B < https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
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On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 10:12 AM, Conbert Benneck <chbenneck@gmail.com> wrote:
On 12/30/2015 8:28 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Hi Thomas,
When I bought our M-15 the bottom hatch board was delaminating.
I bought some teak plywood (teak faces but something else as the core material), and made the new hatch boards. They lasted and looked very good.
Also used some of my left-over material to make my special lower hatch board that held my 7 X 50 binocular; marine radio, etc.
If the plastic is available in colors, and it can "look" like teak, well, why not....? No deterioration; no delamination; structurally stable; ....
Ciao,
Connie
I used this company for my Kingboard needs. They will cut any size in a number of colors and their prices are very reasonable. http://www.boatoutfitters.com/king-starboard.html Good luck with your projects. Presently I am also remaking the main hatch teak slides in Kingboard since I seem to be snapping off the nubs of teak on the inboard edges of them. This plastic is easy to shape and cut if you feed it slowly through a tablesaw blade. Work your projects so you don't have to glue anything. Advice on doing that, though, is available at this website. fair winds, Tom B <
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
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Tom: Could it be your pressure treated wood was not yet dry? Most is not.......if you cut it shortly after you bring it home from the yard, you may get saw slush vs. saw dust. It is that wet. Depending on moisture content and grain pattern (vertical vs. horizontal), it may cup like crazy as it dries out to a stable moisture content. But that is nearly all woods.........not just pressure treated pine........pressure treated just behaves badly as it is often so wet to begin with. Even kiln dried may arrive to you at at least 15% to 20% moisture content. It needs to be down to 10% or so to stabilize. FWIW, my hatch boards are solid mahogany. Aside from some color fading, they are as good now as when I took over stewardship of them about 15 years ago, and they have been around a lot longer than that. Boat is a 1978 and they may be original. Howard On Dec 30, 2015, at 1:25 PM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Yeah, scheme. I thought that pressure treated yellowpine would be a good choice. No rot, etc. I did not reckon with the sun's ability to warp a piece of well finished wood. Even after I ripped the pine into two inch strips, alternated the grain and then epoxied it all together again. Lesson learned. I will look into my favorite hardwoods supplier in Houston and see if they have an answer that suits. Better now in Dallas? than Conn? I see you "up there' are catching a lot of bad weather. Look into the Louisville Dam northwest of Dallas, on google to get a real eyeopener. Happy New Year. Tom B <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 11:54 AM, Conbert Benneck <chbenneck@gmail.com> wrote:
On 12/30/2015 11:32 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote: Tom,
I didn't buy a whole sheet. I went to a specialty wood shop in Boston, and they cut me about 1/3 of a sheet and that is all I had to pay for.
Since I am now living in Dallas, our tornado that just went past us is of greater importance than is the weather in Connecticut.
Or, if you want to get ingenious; use Baltic birch plywood and add teak veneer to both faces; Or, just use the birch plywood and give it a teak stain - a still cheaper solution that should stand up to the weather and look pleasing as well.
The name of the game is "scheme"
Connie
Hi Connie, Last time I checked having to buy a whole sheet of teak faced plywood was about as expensive as buying a few board feet of solid teak. My checkbook is whispering "mahogany" in my ear. Looks like you are having a HOT winter up there in Connecticut. You can thank El Nino for that. fairwinds, Tom B < https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
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On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 10:12 AM, Conbert Benneck <chbenneck@gmail.com> wrote:
On 12/30/2015 8:28 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Hi Thomas,
When I bought our M-15 the bottom hatch board was delaminating.
I bought some teak plywood (teak faces but something else as the core material), and made the new hatch boards. They lasted and looked very good.
Also used some of my left-over material to make my special lower hatch board that held my 7 X 50 binocular; marine radio, etc.
If the plastic is available in colors, and it can "look" like teak, well, why not....? No deterioration; no delamination; structurally stable; ....
Ciao,
Connie
I used this company for my Kingboard needs. They will cut any size in a number of colors and their prices are very reasonable. http://www.boatoutfitters.com/king-starboard.html Good luck with your projects. Presently I am also remaking the main hatch teak slides in Kingboard since I seem to be snapping off the nubs of teak on the inboard edges of them. This plastic is easy to shape and cut if you feed it slowly through a tablesaw blade. Work your projects so you don't have to glue anything. Advice on doing that, though, is available at this website. fair winds, Tom B <
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
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Hi Howard, The yellow pine I used had been sitting in my garage for over a year baking in summer heat in south Texas. I know about how sodden they are when they come home from a lumber company. Thanks for your remarks about the solid mahogany. The first Monty 17 I had came with those, 1974. I liked the look of them and will probably go back to it. Fair weather, Tom B <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 2:09 PM, Howard Audsley <haudsley@tranquility.net> wrote:
Tom:
Could it be your pressure treated wood was not yet dry? Most is not.......if you cut it shortly after you bring it home from the yard, you may get saw slush vs. saw dust. It is that wet. Depending on moisture content and grain pattern (vertical vs. horizontal), it may cup like crazy as it dries out to a stable moisture content. But that is nearly all woods.........not just pressure treated pine........pressure treated just behaves badly as it is often so wet to begin with. Even kiln dried may arrive to you at at least 15% to 20% moisture content. It needs to be down to 10% or so to stabilize.
FWIW, my hatch boards are solid mahogany. Aside from some color fading, they are as good now as when I took over stewardship of them about 15 years ago, and they have been around a lot longer than that. Boat is a 1978 and they may be original.
Howard
On Dec 30, 2015, at 1:25 PM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Yeah, scheme. I thought that pressure treated yellowpine would be a good choice. No rot, etc. I did not reckon with the sun's ability to warp a piece of well finished wood. Even after I ripped the pine into two inch strips, alternated the grain and then epoxied it all together again. Lesson learned. I will look into my favorite hardwoods supplier in Houston and see if they have an answer that suits. Better now in Dallas? than Conn? I see you "up there' are catching a lot of bad weather. Look into the Louisville Dam northwest of Dallas, on google to get a real eyeopener. Happy New Year. Tom B < https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
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On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 11:54 AM, Conbert Benneck <chbenneck@gmail.com> wrote:
On 12/30/2015 11:32 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote: Tom,
I didn't buy a whole sheet. I went to a specialty wood shop in Boston, and they cut me about 1/3 of a sheet and that is all I had to pay for.
Since I am now living in Dallas, our tornado that just went past us is of greater importance than is the weather in Connecticut.
Or, if you want to get ingenious; use Baltic birch plywood and add teak veneer to both faces; Or, just use the birch plywood and give it a teak stain - a still cheaper solution that should stand up to the weather and look pleasing as well.
The name of the game is "scheme"
Connie
Hi Connie, Last time I checked having to buy a whole sheet of teak faced plywood was about as expensive as buying a few board feet of solid teak. My checkbook is whispering "mahogany" in my ear. Looks like you are having a HOT winter up there in Connecticut. You can thank El Nino for that. fairwinds, Tom B <
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
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On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 10:12 AM, Conbert Benneck <chbenneck@gmail.com
wrote:
On 12/30/2015 8:28 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Hi Thomas,
When I bought our M-15 the bottom hatch board was delaminating.
I bought some teak plywood (teak faces but something else as the core material), and made the new hatch boards. They lasted and looked very good.
Also used some of my left-over material to make my special lower hatch board that held my 7 X 50 binocular; marine radio, etc.
If the plastic is available in colors, and it can "look" like teak,
well,
why not....? No deterioration; no delamination; structurally stable; ....
Ciao,
Connie
I used this company for my Kingboard needs. They will cut any size in a number of colors and their prices are very reasonable. http://www.boatoutfitters.com/king-starboard.html Good luck with your projects. Presently I am also remaking the main hatch teak slides in Kingboard since I seem to be snapping off the nubs of teak on the inboard edges of them. This plastic is easy to shape and cut if you feed it slowly through a tablesaw blade. Work your projects so you don't have to glue anything. Advice on doing that, though, is available at this website. fair winds, Tom B <
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
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<#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
Thanks all for the various responses to my starboard question. Good ideas on the wood options also. I am thinking that epoxy sealing something like birch plywood would help with stability and longevity (assuming UV-resistant varnish over the epoxy of course). Anyone have any experience with that? cheers, John S. On 12/30/2015 09:54 AM, Conbert Benneck wrote:
On 12/30/2015 11:32 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote: Tom,
I didn't buy a whole sheet. I went to a specialty wood shop in Boston, and they cut me about 1/3 of a sheet and that is all I had to pay for.
Since I am now living in Dallas, our tornado that just went past us is of greater importance than is the weather in Connecticut.
Or, if you want to get ingenious; use Baltic birch plywood and add teak veneer to both faces; Or, just use the birch plywood and give it a teak stain - a still cheaper solution that should stand up to the weather and look pleasing as well.
The name of the game is "scheme"
Connie
Hi Connie, Last time I checked having to buy a whole sheet of teak faced plywood was about as expensive as buying a few board feet of solid teak. My checkbook is whispering "mahogany" in my ear. Looks like you are having a HOT winter up there in Connecticut. You can thank El Nino for that. fairwinds, Tom B <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
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<#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 10:12 AM, Conbert Benneck <chbenneck@gmail.com> wrote:
On 12/30/2015 8:28 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Hi Thomas,
When I bought our M-15 the bottom hatch board was delaminating.
I bought some teak plywood (teak faces but something else as the core material), and made the new hatch boards. They lasted and looked very good.
Also used some of my left-over material to make my special lower hatch board that held my 7 X 50 binocular; marine radio, etc.
If the plastic is available in colors, and it can "look" like teak, well, why not....? No deterioration; no delamination; structurally stable; ....
Ciao,
Connie
I used this company for my Kingboard needs. They will cut any size in a number of colors and their prices are very reasonable. http://www.boatoutfitters.com/king-starboard.html Good luck with your projects. Presently I am also remaking the main hatch teak slides in Kingboard since I seem to be snapping off the nubs of teak on the inboard edges of them. This plastic is easy to shape and cut if you feed it slowly through a tablesaw blade. Work your projects so you don't have to glue anything. Advice on doing that, though, is available at this website. fair winds, Tom B < https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
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<#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
John, I have considered that too. They make penetrating epoxies now that would probably go all the way down to the first layer glue layer. When I redid the vertical slots for my companionway boards I made them so they would accept 3/4 inch stock which also left me with a very heavy 3/4 inch piece of birch faced plywood. So now I think I will go with some Philippine Mahogany since it is somewhat porous so will be light for its bulk. I may also give it a shot of penetrating epoxy too followed with the UV protection. My vertical slots are made of teak painted gloss varnish. Three coats of the Minwax product from Lowes has held up well in the direct sun this past summer. Have fun. Tom B <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> <#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 3:14 PM, John Schinnerer <john@eco-living.net> wrote:
Thanks all for the various responses to my starboard question. Good ideas on the wood options also.
I am thinking that epoxy sealing something like birch plywood would help with stability and longevity (assuming UV-resistant varnish over the epoxy of course). Anyone have any experience with that?
cheers, John S.
On 12/30/2015 09:54 AM, Conbert Benneck wrote:
On 12/30/2015 11:32 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote: Tom,
I didn't buy a whole sheet. I went to a specialty wood shop in Boston, and they cut me about 1/3 of a sheet and that is all I had to pay for.
Since I am now living in Dallas, our tornado that just went past us is of greater importance than is the weather in Connecticut.
Or, if you want to get ingenious; use Baltic birch plywood and add teak veneer to both faces; Or, just use the birch plywood and give it a teak stain - a still cheaper solution that should stand up to the weather and look pleasing as well.
The name of the game is "scheme"
Connie
Hi Connie, Last time I checked having to buy a whole sheet of teak faced plywood was about as expensive as buying a few board feet of solid teak. My checkbook is whispering "mahogany" in my ear. Looks like you are having a HOT winter up there in Connecticut. You can thank El Nino for that. fairwinds, Tom B < https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com < https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
<#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 10:12 AM, Conbert Benneck <chbenneck@gmail.com> wrote:
On 12/30/2015 8:28 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Hi Thomas,
When I bought our M-15 the bottom hatch board was delaminating.
I bought some teak plywood (teak faces but something else as the core material), and made the new hatch boards. They lasted and looked very good.
Also used some of my left-over material to make my special lower hatch board that held my 7 X 50 binocular; marine radio, etc.
If the plastic is available in colors, and it can "look" like teak, well, why not....? No deterioration; no delamination; structurally stable; ....
Ciao,
Connie
I used this company for my Kingboard needs. They will cut any size in a number of colors and their prices are very reasonable. http://www.boatoutfitters.com/king-starboard.html Good luck with your projects. Presently I am also remaking the main hatch teak slides in Kingboard since I seem to be snapping off the nubs of teak on the inboard edges of them. This plastic is easy to shape and cut if you feed it slowly through a tablesaw blade. Work your projects so you don't have to glue anything. Advice on doing that, though, is available at this website. fair winds, Tom B <
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com <
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
<#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
John, Just finishing up replacement hatch boards (3 pieces) for my '88 M17. This is my 3rd set of boards. This set and the previous set were made of 12 mm Okoume marine plywood that I'm able to buy 1/2 sheet locally ($60). The previous set lasted 6 years before the plys started delaminating. With this set I epoxy sealed the boards using TotalBoat Penetrating epoxy. Lesson learned - it is better to thin the epoxy and let it soak in deeply. Even being penetrating epoxy it would have been better to thin it. I dado cut the butting edges of the boards to help shed water. The challenge I am now having, as this is the dead of Winter here in N. Idaho, is keeping a dust free environment for applying the final finish. I also considered Starboard. I could not buy a 1/2 sheet locally and found it was significantly heavier than the marine plywood. It would have been a very practical choice but I'm glad I stuck with the wood. Randy Graves On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 2:16 PM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
John, I have considered that too. They make penetrating epoxies now that would probably go all the way down to the first layer glue layer. When I redid the vertical slots for my companionway boards I made them so they would accept 3/4 inch stock which also left me with a very heavy 3/4 inch piece of birch faced plywood. So now I think I will go with some Philippine Mahogany since it is somewhat porous so will be light for its bulk. I may also give it a shot of penetrating epoxy too followed with the UV protection. My vertical slots are made of teak painted gloss varnish. Three coats of the Minwax product from Lowes has held up well in the direct sun this past summer. Have fun.
Tom B < https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
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On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 3:14 PM, John Schinnerer <john@eco-living.net> wrote:
Thanks all for the various responses to my starboard question. Good ideas on the wood options also.
I am thinking that epoxy sealing something like birch plywood would help with stability and longevity (assuming UV-resistant varnish over the epoxy of course). Anyone have any experience with that?
cheers, John S.
On 12/30/2015 09:54 AM, Conbert Benneck wrote:
On 12/30/2015 11:32 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote: Tom,
I didn't buy a whole sheet. I went to a specialty wood shop in Boston, and they cut me about 1/3 of a sheet and that is all I had to pay for.
Since I am now living in Dallas, our tornado that just went past us is of greater importance than is the weather in Connecticut.
Or, if you want to get ingenious; use Baltic birch plywood and add teak veneer to both faces; Or, just use the birch plywood and give it a teak stain - a still cheaper solution that should stand up to the weather and look pleasing as well.
The name of the game is "scheme"
Connie
Hi Connie, Last time I checked having to buy a whole sheet of teak faced plywood was about as expensive as buying a few board feet of solid teak. My checkbook is whispering "mahogany" in my ear. Looks like you are having a HOT winter up there in Connecticut. You can thank El Nino for that. fairwinds, Tom B <
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com <
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
<#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 10:12 AM, Conbert Benneck <chbenneck@gmail.com
wrote:
On 12/30/2015 8:28 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Hi Thomas,
When I bought our M-15 the bottom hatch board was delaminating.
I bought some teak plywood (teak faces but something else as the core material), and made the new hatch boards. They lasted and looked very good.
Also used some of my left-over material to make my special lower hatch board that held my 7 X 50 binocular; marine radio, etc.
If the plastic is available in colors, and it can "look" like teak, well, why not....? No deterioration; no delamination; structurally stable; ....
Ciao,
Connie
I used this company for my Kingboard needs. They will cut any size in
a
number of colors and their prices are very reasonable. http://www.boatoutfitters.com/king-starboard.html Good luck with your projects. Presently I am also remaking the main hatch teak slides in Kingboard since I seem to be snapping off the nubs of teak on the inboard edges of them. This plastic is easy to shape and cut if you feed it slowly through a tablesaw blade. Work your projects so you don't have to glue anything. Advice on doing that, though, is available at this website. fair winds, Tom B <
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com <
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
<#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
If you watch EBay you can find deals on odd sizes of Starboard. That’s where I found some of what I needed for our 15. In hindsight I should have bought it all there. Monty15mike
picture of the starboard (plastic) drop in hatches i mentioned a few days ago is attached to this message. happy new year everyone. -- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
Not sure if I actually understand what I am seeing. Are those wood frames around tan starboard centers" On Sun, Jan 3, 2016 at 1:07 PM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
picture of the starboard (plastic) drop in hatches i mentioned a few days ago is attached to this message.
happy new year everyone.
-- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
The center is a window. It is covered with protective paper in the photo. :: Dave Scobie On Jan 3, 2016 10:57 PM, "Henry Rodriguez" <heinzir@gmail.com> wrote:
Not sure if I actually understand what I am seeing. Are those wood frames around tan starboard centers"
On Sun, Jan 3, 2016 at 1:07 PM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
picture of the starboard (plastic) drop in hatches i mentioned a few days ago is attached to this message.
happy new year everyone.
-- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
Got it. The frames are starboard, the centers Plexiglas or similar? On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 6:55 AM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
The center is a window. It is covered with protective paper in the photo.
:: Dave Scobie On Jan 3, 2016 10:57 PM, "Henry Rodriguez" <heinzir@gmail.com> wrote:
Not sure if I actually understand what I am seeing. Are those wood frames around tan starboard centers"
On Sun, Jan 3, 2016 at 1:07 PM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
picture of the starboard (plastic) drop in hatches i mentioned a few days ago is attached to this message.
happy new year everyone.
-- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
Correct Henry. The glass could also be replaced with a thin sheet of starboard. :: Dave Scobie On Jan 4, 2016 6:31 AM, "Henry Rodriguez" <heinzir@gmail.com> wrote:
Got it. The frames are starboard, the centers Plexiglas or similar?
On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 6:55 AM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
The center is a window. It is covered with protective paper in the photo.
:: Dave Scobie On Jan 3, 2016 10:57 PM, "Henry Rodriguez" <heinzir@gmail.com> wrote:
Not sure if I actually understand what I am seeing. Are those wood frames around tan starboard centers"
On Sun, Jan 3, 2016 at 1:07 PM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie@gmail.com> wrote:
picture of the starboard (plastic) drop in hatches i mentioned a few days ago is attached to this message.
happy new year everyone.
-- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
-- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir
PS on this - I don't know that depth of penetration matters that much. The point of the epoxy would be to seal the wood surface, so that nothing else (e.g. moisture) penetrates. My sea kayak (Coho model from Pygmy Boats in Pt. Townsend, WA) is 4mm Okume. The underside of the deck and a few other parts (cockpit rim) are not glassed because it's not needed for strength, would just add weight. But all wood surfaces are epoxy sealed so that even when they get wet, none of the wet gets into the wood. They're sealed with the same epoxy used for everything else on the boat, not any kind of special penetrating epoxy. cheers, John S. On 01/02/2016 10:35 AM, Randy Graves wrote:
John,
Just finishing up replacement hatch boards (3 pieces) for my '88 M17. This is my 3rd set of boards. This set and the previous set were made of 12 mm Okoume marine plywood that I'm able to buy 1/2 sheet locally ($60). The previous set lasted 6 years before the plys started delaminating. With this set I epoxy sealed the boards using TotalBoat Penetrating epoxy. Lesson learned - it is better to thin the epoxy and let it soak in deeply. Even being penetrating epoxy it would have been better to thin it. I dado cut the butting edges of the boards to help shed water. The challenge I am now having, as this is the dead of Winter here in N. Idaho, is keeping a dust free environment for applying the final finish.
I also considered Starboard. I could not buy a 1/2 sheet locally and found it was significantly heavier than the marine plywood. It would have been a very practical choice but I'm glad I stuck with the wood.
Randy Graves
On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 2:16 PM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
John, I have considered that too. They make penetrating epoxies now that would probably go all the way down to the first layer glue layer. When I redid the vertical slots for my companionway boards I made them so they would accept 3/4 inch stock which also left me with a very heavy 3/4 inch piece of birch faced plywood. So now I think I will go with some Philippine Mahogany since it is somewhat porous so will be light for its bulk. I may also give it a shot of penetrating epoxy too followed with the UV protection. My vertical slots are made of teak painted gloss varnish. Three coats of the Minwax product from Lowes has held up well in the direct sun this past summer. Have fun.
Tom B < https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com < https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
<#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 3:14 PM, John Schinnerer <john@eco-living.net> wrote:
Thanks all for the various responses to my starboard question. Good ideas on the wood options also.
I am thinking that epoxy sealing something like birch plywood would help with stability and longevity (assuming UV-resistant varnish over the epoxy of course). Anyone have any experience with that?
cheers, John S.
On 12/30/2015 09:54 AM, Conbert Benneck wrote:
On 12/30/2015 11:32 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote: Tom,
I didn't buy a whole sheet. I went to a specialty wood shop in Boston, and they cut me about 1/3 of a sheet and that is all I had to pay for.
Since I am now living in Dallas, our tornado that just went past us is of greater importance than is the weather in Connecticut.
Or, if you want to get ingenious; use Baltic birch plywood and add teak veneer to both faces; Or, just use the birch plywood and give it a teak stain - a still cheaper solution that should stand up to the weather and look pleasing as well.
The name of the game is "scheme"
Connie
Hi Connie, Last time I checked having to buy a whole sheet of teak faced plywood was about as expensive as buying a few board feet of solid teak. My checkbook is whispering "mahogany" in my ear. Looks like you are having a HOT winter up there in Connecticut. You can thank El Nino for that. fairwinds, Tom B <
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. www.avast.com <
https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaig...
<#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 10:12 AM, Conbert Benneck <chbenneck@gmail.com
wrote:
On 12/30/2015 8:28 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Hi Thomas,
When I bought our M-15 the bottom hatch board was delaminating.
I bought some teak plywood (teak faces but something else as the core material), and made the new hatch boards. They lasted and looked very good.
Also used some of my left-over material to make my special lower hatch board that held my 7 X 50 binocular; marine radio, etc.
If the plastic is available in colors, and it can "look" like teak, well, why not....? No deterioration; no delamination; structurally stable; ....
Ciao,
Connie
I used this company for my Kingboard needs. They will cut any size in
a
number of colors and their prices are very reasonable. http://www.boatoutfitters.com/king-starboard.html Good luck with your projects. Presently I am also remaking the main hatch teak slides in Kingboard since I seem to be snapping off the nubs of teak on the inboard edges of them. This plastic is easy to shape and cut if you feed it slowly through a tablesaw blade. Work your projects so you don't have to glue anything. Advice on doing that, though, is available at this website. fair winds, Tom B <
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-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
-- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
participants (9)
-
Conbert Benneck -
Dave Scobie -
Henry Rodriguez -
Howard Audsley -
jerry＠jerrymontgomery.org -
John Schinnerer -
Randy Graves -
speedernut2＠gmail.com -
Thomas Buzzi